Thanks for posting this. I haven't seen many videos talking about these systems over the longer term. I'm having one installed in my car, though it's been in for almost 2 years, so I'm hoping to find out in the next couple months or so how well it performs on my own car. I'm having the Sniper 550-866K small bore unit installed to replace the Chrysler lean burn carb system.
I think it's like anything electronic these days, they're hit and miss, but I've personally had good luck and I think my car runs well with the Sniper unit. I think it would run a little better with some small things like an upgraded alternator and such, but that's minor stuff.
I added twin cooling fans to my Chevelle and boy do they draw the alternator down. A good yellow top optima or really any deep cycle battery designed to carry additional loads will help your alternator and buffer the momentary dips in voltage when fans kick on. Does it matter if the ECU is disconnected from the battery for long periods? That doesn’t erase any settings?
Think u are right could also have lower fuel preasure due to dead battery too . I'd try starting it after it has like 12.5+ volts. U should get a battery tester to tell u how many amps the battery has. I use one everyday at work.
I'll have to check my fuel gauge, I think it's okay though.. could be a little lower due to my small leak. I think this battery is starting to see it's way out, it's holding a charge fine, but I think it's amperage is dwindling. A new alternator wouldn't hurt though, that's for sure. I need to find someone that can rebuild it with higher amperage.
That heavy voltage draw in cranking could be from worn bushings and brushes in you're starter motor, never hurts to pop them apart an clean the armature and such. 25-30$ in small parts can often bring them back to life for another 50 years
I have the MSD atomic system. If it sits for months it will start immediately then die. Will do it twice before it stays running. If I cycle the key 2 times letting it prime each time, it will stay running on the first try. A friend has the holley system and does same thing. Your fuel mileage improvement is because your carb was running richer than the sniper.
I adjusted my target AFR's before selling the sniper (bumped them, the sniper seemed to read richer than it was actually running) and the car ran a TON better. Probably lost the gas mileage.. never checked. lol
60 year old wiring is always been the problem that I have seen. Was the holley system wired into factory wiring? With electric fuel pump, fans, fuel injection, the entire wiring needs to be modernized.
Holley has its own wiring harness, power and ground are direct to the battery. There is a wire that is tied into the key in the hot position, which generally goes to the hot side of the coil. I have not checked to see if I have 12v constant there, that could also be causing some of my issues. I'm upgrading my Pertronix unit, which will also need 12v constant, so thats why I havent dug into it too far yet.
if you totally disconnect the sniper from the battery you clear the memory to the ECU requiring it to go throw the learning again, try driving awhile and let us know if it improves?
Just like all computer cars when you disconnect the battery totally it clears the data causing it to go into a limp mode then you need to drive about 30 to forty miles to recover data before you can do an emission test. If you look at the instructions, you will see the ECU has a direct connection to the battery for constantan power. It does not reload from the chip unless you reload it.
I've abandoned the project for now as I'm thinking of going more of the restoration route on my car. I do have some spacers that are cnc cut and made of aluminum if you're interested, but they weren't cheap. They were about $130 shipped when I got them, I'd let them go for $120 if you wanted them.
I see you have return springs on the throttle. Is that in addition to the spring on the EFI or did you remove the EFI springs and add your own. My Sniper has a very stiff spring and gas pedal as a result. Just wondering if you had that problem.
Mine are in addition to the springs in the throttle, my pedal is a little stiffer, but it's not bad. I will say since it's a little heavier, it has exaggerated the touchiness at low throttle, so I have to look into getting that fixed.
You need to find a better ignition source for the pink wire. Mine did exactly the same thing until corrected.
Thanks for posting this. I haven't seen many videos talking about these systems over the longer term. I'm having one installed in my car, though it's been in for almost 2 years, so I'm hoping to find out in the next couple months or so how well it performs on my own car. I'm having the Sniper 550-866K small bore unit installed to replace the Chrysler lean burn carb system.
I think it's like anything electronic these days, they're hit and miss, but I've personally had good luck and I think my car runs well with the Sniper unit. I think it would run a little better with some small things like an upgraded alternator and such, but that's minor stuff.
I added twin cooling fans to my Chevelle and boy do they draw the alternator down. A good yellow top optima or really any deep cycle battery designed to carry additional loads will help your alternator and buffer the momentary dips in voltage when fans kick on. Does it matter if the ECU is disconnected from the battery for long periods? That doesn’t erase any settings?
Think u are right could also have lower fuel preasure due to dead battery too . I'd try starting it after it has like 12.5+ volts. U should get a battery tester to tell u how many amps the battery has. I use one everyday at work.
I'll have to check my fuel gauge, I think it's okay though.. could be a little lower due to my small leak. I think this battery is starting to see it's way out, it's holding a charge fine, but I think it's amperage is dwindling. A new alternator wouldn't hurt though, that's for sure. I need to find someone that can rebuild it with higher amperage.
That heavy voltage draw in cranking could be from worn bushings and brushes in you're starter motor, never hurts to pop them apart an clean the armature and such. 25-30$ in small parts can often bring them back to life for another 50 years
@@charliericker3124 my starter is brand new. I think I'd benefit from a smaller high torque starter. All is good now that I'm back with a carb.
I have the MSD atomic system. If it sits for months it will start immediately then die. Will do it twice before it stays running. If I cycle the key 2 times letting it prime each time, it will stay running on the first try. A friend has the holley system and does same thing. Your fuel mileage improvement is because your carb was running richer than the sniper.
I adjusted my target AFR's before selling the sniper (bumped them, the sniper seemed to read richer than it was actually running) and the car ran a TON better. Probably lost the gas mileage.. never checked. lol
4:45 Hahaha !
We all get that
3 years and only 2500 miles? "C'mon, Man', drive that car........
7 cars and 4 of them projects will do that to a man. Lol
I have 68 amc 327, need a hid distributor, and need help to get the correct one . Any one know or.can help would be greatly appreciated.
@@chuckhalloran4807are you trying to go with Holley stuff?
60 year old wiring is always been the problem that I have seen. Was the holley system wired into factory wiring? With electric fuel pump, fans, fuel injection, the entire wiring needs to be modernized.
Holley has its own wiring harness, power and ground are direct to the battery. There is a wire that is tied into the key in the hot position, which generally goes to the hot side of the coil. I have not checked to see if I have 12v constant there, that could also be causing some of my issues. I'm upgrading my Pertronix unit, which will also need 12v constant, so thats why I havent dug into it too far yet.
Nice car man!…shes cute!…and that 327 sounds awesome!…will be putting a Holley sniper on my Olds 307 that I rebuilt!
Thank you! Take your time on it and you will enjoy the Sniper!
if you totally disconnect the sniper from the battery you clear the memory to the ECU requiring it to go throw the learning again, try driving awhile and let us know if it improves?
I thought it stored that tune on the SD card? I don't think it should clear tuning preferences after sitting unplugged.
@@RamblinGarage
Just like all computer cars when you disconnect the battery totally it clears the data causing it to go into a limp mode then you need to drive about 30 to forty miles to recover data before you can do an emission test. If you look at the instructions, you will see the ECU has a direct connection to the battery for constantan power. It does not reload from the chip unless you reload it.
@@AuroraLowe-k6p that makes sense, I read the original message like it cleared from the chip haha
Did you actually finish the manifold conversion?. I am doing the same thing but have found a spacer thickness of about thickness 3/4" i needed needed
I've abandoned the project for now as I'm thinking of going more of the restoration route on my car. I do have some spacers that are cnc cut and made of aluminum if you're interested, but they weren't cheap. They were about $130 shipped when I got them, I'd let them go for $120 if you wanted them.
I see you have return springs on the throttle. Is that in addition to the spring on the EFI or did you remove the EFI springs and add your own. My Sniper has a very stiff spring and gas pedal as a result. Just wondering if you had that problem.
Mine are in addition to the springs in the throttle, my pedal is a little stiffer, but it's not bad. I will say since it's a little heavier, it has exaggerated the touchiness at low throttle, so I have to look into getting that fixed.
You need the throttle bracket that Holley sells for $16 it corrects that heavy pedal
I’ll keep my carb, thanks.
Can you share the spring brackets and throttle cable bracket model used in your project?
I'm still working on making it perfect
Cool car. I see you have the back up car mounted on the wall!😆
Hahaha for if I ever decide to restore.. but I'm on the fence!
Is that a sniper 1 or 2
That's the 1, I haven't had any of the usual issues that people claim to have.
Some bounty sheets for mice control, nice!
They haven't failed me.. yet. lol I cheaped out though, they're generic brand lol
Did you buy the Holley fuel tank?
No I didn't, I'm running an inline pump off the factory tank. Haven't had any issues as of yet.
@@RamblinGarage which inline pump are you running?
Amperage you wanted to say, not Voltage, upgrade the alternator . . .
sometimes ya mis-speak in front of the camera :)
Hahahaha! Where that FI startup reliability???? My carb would start easier than that on a cold Michigan night.
After sitting for months? Unlikely.
@@RamblinGarageI want to be able to start as easily at -10 degrees as she does at 85..no jet changes, just good ol tech.