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I've been riding for 34 years and trail braking is one of those things I'm glad I took the time to learn. He doesn't mention it explicitly but trail braking means you already have control of your front brake going into the corner. If you get into the corner and realize your line is wrong or there is something you'd rather not deal with, you can use trail braking to change your line and/or speed without spending a lot of traction. In a perfect world, we'd already know what to expect in that corner, but life throws surprises at you.
So basically this technique is the act of going into the corner with front brake slightly engaged and than slowly releasing as you straighten out ? I need a very rudimentary and basic definition of what this technique actually entails. I do his first technique of slowing looking and than no break - just accelerate.. But apparently this technique is the same HOWEVER, you KEEP THE FRONT BRAKE engaged a little longer (carefully) and than slowly release . So in a nutshell, I guess this technique is simply keeping front brake engaged a little longer as you enter the corner ?
Been riding motorcycles about 50 yrs and the Trail braking technique is fairly new to me. This is the best explanation of it that I' ve seen. I will give it a try come riding season Thanks.
One of the the things I like about your videos is the detail you go into. It's those subtleties that go beyond the basic MSF instruction I've already received that keeps me coming back for more. Thanks.
I've learned trail braking differently. It is basically staying on the brakes, but with less pressure as you go into your lean into the curve, reducing further if more lean is needed and keeping the brake on, except if you need to add maintenance throttle (i.e. keeping speed to go through a longer corner). At any time you use throttle, you are off the front brake. In tight turns, you might continue to brake until you can get going upright and can accelerate out of the corner.
It is amazing to me in watching your videos how many of the maneuvers that I do all the time as a self taught rider learning by experience yet still find myself learning from you although I can no longer ride because of my health at 67 years of age I still watch and enjoy your videos Thank You !
Hi Kevin I’m 77 and still riding around 20 ks a year. Most of my buddy’s are around my age and have been riding all their lives. There is only one Harley in the bunch. Mostly BMW or Japanese with some British bikes thrown in . A lot of them have vintage bikes. We have a lot of interest in trials events. We love our bikes and enjoy your channel. Thanks & ride safe . 🇨🇦
same here brother :) In my case I use combination of front and rear brake, had a nasty accident in my first day of riding with the garbing the front brake - old bicycle habits and after that I was very cautions with the front brake while rebuilding my habit to use only two fingers. The bike being Intruder vs600 also helped - I learned to use both brakes and when I was on the R6 of a friend a car pulled on purpose in front of us , both other R6 fall - one locked the front brake and nearly roll forward the other locked it and fall. And I was "the new rider" in their mind because I was riding sport bike for the 3-4 time :D I will never understand the riders ( sport bikers in the most part ) explaining to me how they use only the front brake and how they don't need the rear one :D I was and I am not perfect , but this is a good thing as I can ride and learn every day !
The idea with trail braking is that you ONLY use the front brake through half the corner. shifting the weight of the bike to the front tyre and creating more contact patch and therefore more grip. I'm pretty sure using both brakes is just slowing down with no advantage in grip levels.
Correction to detail. Trail braking requires that the front brake is applied EARLIER, not later. The effect of this is to change the geometry of the bike by unloading the back end by closing the throttle, and loading up the front end. If more braking is required, it can be safely applied. ( because it is already applied slightly, there is no tendency to snatch at it ). The amount that it is applied is minimal, typically, only that amount sufficient to operate the brake microswitch, plus a smidgeon. The term 'trail braking' is derived from the terms used to describe the front end geometry, namely 'rake' and 'trail' and does so because the trail angle increases as the front brake is applied. I was a sceptic until a few months ago when I first tried it.....it works, it is safe, it is NOT just a racing technique, it should be taught as standard.
I thought the same as I was watching, you brake earlier but gentler and ease off as you tip over. I worry some people are gonna lose their life cuz of dodgy info on the internet.
I just started riding again after many years and I found myself doing this the first time I brought the bike to the twisties. I started doing this instinctively and had never even heard of it before. I first though maybe it was a bad habit i should quit since i was under the impression you should never brake on a corner. After watching videos on the subject I can now understand what I've been doing and use the knowledge to improve my skills and safety. Thanks.
The most important thing to remember is get most of your braking done before the turn. Practice braking gently with as much finesse as possible learn to feel the brakes. Braking is something we should all practice every time we ride it will save your life. Good topic
I've never taken a motorcycle course. I recently started riding again after over 20 yrs and the first time I took my bike out on the twisties I found myself doing this on every turn. I usually use both brakes. I questioned if I was wise at the time, but I'm glad to have discovered I am not doing something that is considered too foolish. It helps to learn the theory behind what I'm doing and since I'll probably never take a course I really appreciate the advice you give.
Thanks for repeating the training on trail breaking. I understood the reasons why but confused about whether front or rear brake so you’ve cleared this up. Will be practicing . Much appreciated .
Trail braking has a few benefits. It makes the front end geometry change because the front end gets shorter (compressing the front forks), which makes for less rake on the front end. Less rake makes for quicker steering ability. It helps your "nerve" from your fingers to your brain get better so that IF you need to stop in a "down hill, reduced radius, right hand turn" where your sight is limited, you are already on the brakes and can apply a little more before straightening up the bike to make a complete stop or go around the object in the road. Inexperienced riders "grab a hand full" in that situation and go down with the front tire sliding out from under their bike. Lastly, it trains your muscle memory to be "smooth" on the front brake rather than being "jerky" with a full handful of front brake. Good points Kevin, thanks for the expert opinion on trail braking....
A Babbit, great explanation of why trail braking (front brake) helps the steering in a turn. Dragging the rear brake toomuch in a fast or unknown turn actually causes the bike to want to stand up, right? Or similar. I learn great tips from all the comments on this channel. Thanks!
I was very excited when I read about this technique, so I questioned a number of my biker friends on whether they used it. Every one of them said "NEVER use your front brake in a turn".(2 of them have ridden for more than 40 years) I was a bit disappointed to hear that but I will keep and open mind and continue to check it out.
Trail braking is fine usually, but if there’s debris in a corner, or if it’s wet, you can ask your tires to do only one thing at a time. Slowing and turning is a great way to lay it down.
Omg! This FINALLY makes sense! The actual demonstrations, especially the last one from the riders point of view were awesome. Every other video I’ve seen by other people made it seem like you trail the break into the corner while also keeping the throttle open. I actually do this but thought it was an incorrect technique. Thank you for the explanation and demonstration!
Great video! I've written a book and online course to teach trail braking to the average street rider. Your video here reinforces my theories and techniques. Best wishes!
An interesting explanation but for completeness you should add that it's the effect that the front braking has on 'fork dive' thus momentarily shortening the wheel base that makes it easier to get around the corners faster.
Another facet of this is try to avoid separating braking from throttle. What I mean is there should be no appreciable interval between trailing all the way off the brakes and rolling on the throttle. It should be immediate. Otherwise the suspension pogo's from braking, no braking, then throttle causing potential traction issues. Particularly at higher speeds. It's a little tricky to manipulate the throttle and brake nearly simultaneously, but it is possible. On the track I'll even roll on a little throttle just before releasing the brakes completely to minimize suspension disruption. Not really a technique needed on the street, but if you start playing on the racetrack it comes in handy.
Your video had a good beginner explanation on trail breaking and I applaud you for it. I'm also going to tell you that it was reckless because the bikes setup determines how the bike reacts or doesn't react . Guys the reason racers or track guys can use track breaking in such a aggressive way is do to several things. We set our suspensions both front and back, to our exact weight and also run good tires. Now with that being said , the first thing you should do before going on your first long ride on your new expensive bike is adjust suspension. 90% of street riders have no clue on suspension so please educate yourself on this because you dont want to cry after you wreck that pretty bike. After you have tuned your suspension or had it tuned by a professional throw those stock tires in the garbage or put them on Ebay. Invest in a good set of tires, I promise you it is worth the money. At this point you have a safe bike setup to start learning how to trail - break..
I've recently learned about, and how to trail brake. It has greatly increased my safety and confidence in the curves. Relying on engine braking alone to continue slowing while entering curves is a bad idea because that braking force diminishes as RPMs drop. For example: You close the throttle at 4000 RPM. By 3000 RPM you have only 56% the slowing force, thus rate of deceleration. That initial forward G you feel when you close the throttle is deceiving. Thank you so much for all your videos.
I use this technique on adventure/enduro/trail bikes to keep the forks compressed, without doing it the forks will extend when you start to accelerate and run wide, with practice you can tighten a turn considerably or alter a line to miss manholes or sand and gravel. I've been racing and riding for 40 years and this is now second nature, and now it's got a fancy name.
Nice, but the highway example is not what I would be doing. I begin to slow and make sure the traffic behind me slows down rather than rush up to the intersection where I'm required to turn fast.
Another informative and educational video. I've used this technique fairly often living here in NJ. The people here are not big fans of having to slow down for any vehicle, let alone motorcycles, to turn off our highways. We do have large shoulders that I use whenever possible to slow, look, press and roll but when turning onto a side road and not another 'main' road your ability to trail break is very handy. Thanks again for your videos Kevin. And I like the new opening scenes. You're turning into quite the video making artist so to speak. 😊
Did this yesterday while negotiating a corner at about 79km/h on a bycicle. I went for the corner with too much speed, but i managed to regain control by trail braking into the corner apex. Also and very important: when you change tires, even if you change to the same brand/model, you should practice to avoid crashes in this critical situations. Thanks MCRider!
Just getting into bikes after 30 year lay off. This is how I was taught to ride all those years ago (probably pressed & rolled more often ...lol). Brilliant video which made me look long and hard at how I'll be riding in future. Great job.
First time I watched your channel... I never heard the term trail braking before, but now I know what it is, I've done it many times since I ride (20 years ago). It's not something I've learned during my motorcycle course, but I've learned it out of necessity. The technique is also very useful when entering a curve realizing my speed is too high. I use the front brake very lightly to reduce my speed during leaning over to maintain my "riding line" aka "road position". It works beautifully on (of course) clean and dry roads or even under wet conditions, but look out for oil, sand or dirt... I occasionally use trail braking with the rear brake (foot brake) when the asphalt is brand new or patched up, then it can be slippery. Recuperating from a rear wheel skid is easier than from a front wheel skid. I learned that also, the hard way...
One thing you don't really cover is how trail braking (front) brake allows greater compression on the front end, adding some stability via suspension compression. This is what makes it work better than trail braking the rear (rear dragging). This compression adds to overall traction as well, provided the brake is not released in one fell swoop, thus upsetting bike stability.
Trail braking the front wheel also shortens the wheelbase slightly. Shorter wheelbase smaller turning circle. You can feel it turn sharper even in the middle of a turn when the front brake compresses the front forks
@@drumsnbass Do you need to add rear brakes? or just front brakes? I've watched all MC riders trail braking but i always have the question on what happens with the rear brakes when trail braking.
DesaturatedBlue - no need for the rear, especially if you have linked brakes as many bikes do today. There’s an especially good video on trail braking on the canyonchasers channel. I encourage you to watch it. In my particular case, I ride a BMW with ABS and front linked brakes. I literally never touch the rear on pavement.
I just made a motorcycle holyday in Sardegna/Italy with 1800 km curves from a total 2000 km ride in seven days and sometimes it was very handy to use the trail brake technique. It workes also, when I unfortunately came once a little bit too fast into the curve.
Into 1st gear. Tap tap tap on break slowing cager (that is right behind you) down Approach turn Break front in a nice straight line slowing down then dip into turn only on the rear break and throttle and push steer as needed through the turn sharpening and looking in direction of intended travel. This works for me.
The important factor here is also the amount of loose gravel on the surface. It could cause the brake to let the wheel bite and slide out causing you to fall. I find fear wheel brake application to be more advantages in town because of this. I am probably wrong but on M109R with its length I have adopted this practice.
I think in your situation, instead of already planning to use trail breaking, you might want to: 1) petition for proper ramps if traffic is as heavy as you say 2) exit earlier/later where there is a ramp 3) indicate early, including hand signs 4) plan ahead so that you aren't followed by other vehicles (easier said than done) 5) downshift properly in case you need to quickly re-accelerate 6) look behind you and for an exit on the left lane
Thank you Kevin. I'm still working on getting road ready- gear, cornering, u turns, slow speed control, .. I can't wait to hit the road but I'm not rushing.
I have a trial mountainbike background and I can confirm the physics behind this technique. I've been doing this for years, and now I do it sometimes with the motorbike too (650 V Strom). What I want to add, and what I noticed, is that you got to have the slack of the throttle cable, properly adjusted, just before "no slack" so, you can smoothly coordinate it with the other controls and squeeze it at the right moment with no "rev gap" so to speak ;)
I did a lot of dirt riding when I was a kid but I'm a complete novice when it comes to street riding (kinda why I'm here). I saw many comments here from people saying they've been trail breaking all along. And that it just came naturally. I think it would be wise to reconsider that. The go-to technique should be the slow-look-press-roll wherever possible (just as MCrider seemed to say) IMO. You have the best chance of getting through that turn safely that way because the wheels are turning freely. Otherwise- if you're in too low of a gear, or on the brakes the wheels are trying to do something else. Imagine coming across a nicer layer of fine same scattered across the road. You're best bet is to already be slowed down I'd say.
I'll practice my trail braking at stoplights sometimes. I had trouble with this in the advanced class, they told me to get on the breaks just before I stared to let off the throttle, then I was able to get the hang of it.
being old school i was taught to never do that. it was riding the breaks. the all the bull that it would cause.... 3 yrs ago i took the bike safety test and you are right. i now use it alot. corning and slow turning. great stuff Kelvin....ty for taking the time to help teach
thanks, great video. I realized that I've been trail breaking without even noticing for a while now. You really give valuable details on this video. You have a new subscriber!
This video is amazing with detailed demonstrations and all, unlike many others where they just talked. I will practice it to the T. Kevin seems like a great dude. Thank you very much
My instructor had us moving our arses over about half a butt in the direction of the turn when we started trail braking. I still prefer to just drop a cog and then the hammer. Great lesson and editing btw, thanks.
You share some incredibly useful infor on your site. You have probably saved numerous riders from an accident. I don't like braking IN a corner due to the increased possibility of oil, antifreeze, grease, tar strips, etc., causing either tire to slip. So I follow the MSF instruction to do all braking while the bike is upright. I might incidentally use the rear brake part way into a curve but my toe is just feathering it. Maybe one day I will have to exercise braking gently with the front but my mishaps on bicycle has mentally trained me to tread very lightly on the front brake if I'm not moving in a straight line! If I have to exit a multi lane road where the speed is high, I roll the throttle a ways before the turn to create some space between the following vehicle, then I get close the right side and do my hard braking while still vertical that way I can release the brakes when I actually do enter the turn. Your suggestion to feather and then release the front brake is top notch information. I know a few people who slid off a curve because they locked the front tire in a curve, went down and slid into the grass.
I trail brake every corner not because I'm trying to use a racing technique, but because I believe it's safer. I know many people say it's more of an advanced technique and can be dangerous if used incorrectly, but so can many other things we do in life. That's why you learn those techniques and become proficient in them. I believe trail braking is safer because on some corners where visibility may be hindered you already have the brake covered and applied in case there is something in the road you didn't expect or if the corner tightens up and you have to lose some speed. Just letting off the throttle may not be enough. Now if you have to add brake, you are probably going to over-brake or as most people do - panic, stand the bike up and go off the road. If you have to slow down once you are committed in the corner, you have room to adjust your speed and still have traction left over if done correctly. And that's where I think people say trail braking is dangerous - they seem to think trail braking is racing and is to be used to take every corner at the limits of traction and the turn radius. No. It's just a technique that allows riders to take a corner faster and more efficiently but not necessarily at the limits of the tires or rider's skills. Learn it now and don't let the first time you try it be when you need it.
I need to use this technique frequently where I live. Specifically in three situations: 1. Cars here drive fast, and stop in the RH lane dangerously close to corners. Drivers have to take the middle lane before turning right and maintain traffic flow. So braking needs to be sometimes uncomfortably late, to get out of the path of speeding vehicles. 2. Looping on-ramps are often preceded by a nearly 20 degree decline over a bridge. If I didnt brake well into the corner, I would be over (no trail braking) or under (straight line braking) speeding as reached the start of the ramp. When you've got a bus bearing down on you, or if you read the next point, neither of these situations are advisible. 3. As I have mentioned, cars often stop dangerously close to corners (before, during, after), but there are also extremely harsh camber, new potholes or any number of road objects which means being able to adjust your braking or line during a turn is very important.
Thanks Kelvin! learned something new today all the while i thought trail braking is used on car driving only, and i used it a lot to shift weight to the front during corner for more front traction. Today learn something new that i can apply on my riding as well
I had a terrible scare about 5 years ago at a Honda demo riding day. I signed up on the CB1100 because that was the only bike left. I was 3rd after the leader in a group of about 12. The year before I had tested the VFR1200 so I felt I could handle the CB. At the time I rode an ACE 750 for about 12 years so I thought I was all it. The leader had some skill and decided to really step on it. After about 10 minutes we went around a right bend that was bending a bit too much at one point - something I didn't know beforehand. I slowed before the bend so I was sure I had it under control, however I decided to follow the leader as he was maintaining his speed in the bend. Before I knew it I came very close to the double-yellow line on the road and I got scared that I was going to overshoot it. I applied more rear brake and leaned even more and I kept the bike just inside the first yellow line. Just at that moment a F-150 came from the other direction and he was less than a foot away from the other yellow line. So basically I cheated certain death at the time. I had gotten so scared that I went home that day I put my bike away and called it quits. Because of the love of sports I did a post-game analysis of what happened about a month later and learned that what I went through happens frequently, but less frequently are people who come back to the sport. I found a couple of RUclips videos which basically explained what I had done wrong. One of them actually said to retrace my way and conquer the corner, and unless I did that I would never go back to motorcycling. I did and I understood the following: I punched above my weight and it almost cost me my life. 1) I chose the wrong bike - too powerful; 2) I chose the wrong positioning in the group - 3rd is for people who know how to ride fast; 3) I used the logic that I had tried the VFR1200 before and therefore I would be okay with the CB1100. Surviving on the street (car or motorcycle) comes down to a delicate balance between A) machine; B) environment; and C) people. Years later I realised that what had saved me was "Honda" - why? Because the CB1100 had a combined ABS braking system, which is basically a computer doing very fast analysis of a situation to know in what proportion the braking should be done so you don't lock up any of your wheels. Call it idiot-proof, I call it the gift-of-life. Had the bike not had the combined braking system, and with me continually applying the rear brake and leaning I would not be here writing this for you to read. Conclusion: try to keep those A) B) C) in mind and there's a good chance that things will work out. Have fun out there!
Bunnyshooter 223 exactly that, the countryside is often in woodland or surrounded by shrubs demarcating fields, and European cars tend to be much smaller.
I've been watching your videos off and on for a little while since I recently got another bike after an 8 year hiatese. I've become very concerned with learning more about riding and more or less how to overcome "accidents" I do Intend to take a riding class when i can find one in my local area. as far as trail braking is it a good idea to mention also Incorporating this with engine brake for tight high speed turns. and I thought it would be good to mention knowing the roads. for instance trail braking in a corner that may have some debri or pavement that doesn't really help traction would be a bad idea if someone doesn't know how to negotiate out of the circumstance. I'm just trying to bring up points riders need to be aware of that I may have missed in the video. regardless i appreciate you taking the time to make and share these videos. so please keep it up.
I live by trail braking as I'm from a racing background . I always surprised by how many people don't know about it. It's more dangerous not using it and especially now with abs you wouldnt rode any other way . Trail braking is corner dependant. On the type of corner it's not hard to work it out
This may have been a comment already, but trail braking also allows the tire to flatten out for more grip. Putting your knees out to create drag also allows you to keep the throttle rolled on to some degree, then tuck back in exiting the corner.
I don't think putting the knee out is to create drag as much as it moves the center of gravity out further. I'm not a sports bike rider but i do use that practice often.
I use trail breaking often, it's just a riding style I have developed through the years, generally speaking I want to get in and out of the corner as fast as reasonably possible. I feel somewhat vulnerable while transitioning a turn, your options are somewhat limited while leaned over so I want to negotiate that turn quickly just in case I have to stand the bike up. For example; Turning right off of the State Hwy. onto my street there is a little store on that corner that is close to the road, there is pull-in parking starting just after the corner which means people back out when leaving. So this back-out is close to both the road I'm leaving and the one I'm turning on. You will have to stand the bike up quickly to avoid these people and it is not their fault, they check the corner before backing and it's clear, two seconds later I'm there. Sure I could navigate the corner more slowly but like in this video I'm coming from a highway to a side street. If I'm to slow I risk getting rear-ended. This riding style is why I do not like linked breaking, I also like a slipper clutch in the event I selected the wrong gear or heavy rear breaking while turning. ABS is probably good it works good on my car but I learned and have survived a half a million miles without it, I would have to learn hard breaking again If I had it.
Trail braking is also useful if you misjudge a corner speed a little. Say you noticed the apex had sand after you had already set your braking point and entry. Being comfortable with trail braking allows you to compensate. I generally trail brake into corners I know, and leave that option open on corners I'm less familiar with.
Always enjoying your videos Kevin. I think I've watched this one previously and used it as a refresher this time. I've been riding for 1 year and have put 8000 miles on the motorcycle. I recently attended an advanced motormen slow cone weave and other safety measure course. The course was done very well and I learned a lot and sharpened my skills at low speed, however I brought up trail braking when questions were asked in the class and the instructor said it is never to be used on the street, it kills people and it is a track thing only and that's all he wanted to hear about it. I was a bit embarrassed and feel ignorant to have even brought it up. After all he was an accomplished motorcycle instructor and competition slow cone rider for many years. Why was he so adamant about the technique and is this something that is prevalent with old school riders? Not trying to create controversy, but now I fear trail braking just a bit and I have tried it in the past. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated and would be designed to help me through this mental dilemma not to go back and bad mouth anyone. I am too old for that nonsense.
You did nothing wrong in asking the instructor about trail braking. But it is certainly a valid skill to use on the street. It is definitely not a track only tactic.
thanks for the useful video.! i have watched countless vids on this subject and ride both a sportsbike and cruiser. I found the example you used on the right turn you make to go home most relevent to most street riders. I have never been on a track and probably will not. I also found that, like many of your expereinced watchers, i was unconsciously using trail braking. But now that I'm aware I can hone the skill.
Front breaking puts more weight yout bike to the front wheel increasing its ... the opposite effect happens on the rear wheel, so you better avoid breaking it ... That convinced me for (carefully!) trail breaking in general, because it even opens up more options for reacting to anything unknown/unexpected happening inside that curve ...
Thank you! I have a similar turn and I just want to get the bike out of traffic asap. Regular turning techniques feel like I'm going to be rear ended, and braking in the turn always set off the noon alarms. Braking to where the lean and turn is set up seems to get my butt out of traffic quicker.
Another solid video, Kevin. Thanks. It's a bit of a validation for me. I find myself employing this technique at an off ramp near me where from the one lane off ramp from the freeway you can go straight or turn right. Only about 100 yards to make the turn and when the light at the end of the off ramp is green, I can have cars riding up on me pretty quick. I've used trail braking and it's a very good technique for a smooth turn. Thanks again.
MCrider yes indeed. I meant it makes for a smooth turn in those specific types of situations, certainly not all. By the way, the cornering series was very helpful also!
So-Ko Moto something about the sound of a Triumph parallel twin...some people say it sounds like a sewing machine, but I think it sounds like the purr of a cat.
I'm in the same boat I always thought that's how your supposed to do it nobody taught me that I guess it just came naturally to me it makes me feel good to know I was doing something right keep your motors running and stay safe my fellow riders
Thanks great explanation...I get it now...after 40 years of riding with feel I'm figuring out what it is Im doing right and why I have never had an accident ..learned on dirt when I was about 9 years old. I hope to sportbike for the first time this summer. Trying to get a jump on the vocabulary in classes I am going sign up for. ...Gary in Colorado..p.s. I have an eye just like yours from racquetball injury so I feel a kin to y'all. Did time in Austin... Daughter is an engineer in Arlington. TX. But I digress. Lol thanks again MC.
"Trail braking" is variable just like the "friction zone" on the clutch. There is not a "set" amount of trail braking to use, it depends mostly on the tightness of the curve and the pavement surface. You would never "trail brake" on ice, snow, sand, gravel, etc. "Trail braking" can also be accomplished to some extent with engine breaking. The whole point is to throw the weight of the bike/rider onto the front forks while also slowing thereby increasing your front tires contact patch. I've been doing this for 50 years without knowing the fancy name of it. Note: Always look in your mirrors before doing any kind of breaking. Be aware of your suroundings, always, 360.
Thank you Kevin for providing informative and well executed riding lessons. Isn't the desired effect to slightly shift weight to the front wheel to increase traction? What I do know is control is more positive and she tracks better.
I always trail brake to some degree. I’ve been riding for over 50 years, and I’m naturally “efficient”. (IE I’m fast without drawing unwanted attention to it.)😎
You make no mention of using the rear brake - using the rear brake, feathering it, with the power on will tip the bike further into the corner whereas using the front will try to lift the bike up (which can result in the wheel shooting out from under you especially if the road is wet, as you noted). Note the rear brake with power on, just a little power not closed throttle.
I didn't like your example of when to use this to make that right turn - allowing another driver to push you into making a manoeuvre at a speed that you're not happy with is not justification for doing it - slowing earlier to control the following traffic would work better here and be safer particularly if the bend had a loose surface that you can't see on the approach - I'm not sure I get the benefit of this - if you setup right in the first place you, don't need it and why put all that constant wear and tear on your brakes - certainly for road riding I think its unnecessary and on any sort of loose surface you could be sitting in the road - interesting also the idea of going into bends shut down and then powering after the apex and going from nose down to nose up whilst the bike is banked over - your bike is most stable when its travelling in a straight line with the engine just pulling so replicating this in corners creates and holds stability and consistency until the steering comes off and the power goes back on - setting up for corners by getting all your braking and gear changing done on the approach and having the bike under drive at the entry point for the bend, sets the edge on the tyres, balances it from front to back and by holding that drive steady on the way in and, as you start to bank means that there is nothing for you to do but steer on one smooth stable course - as soon as you have view of the exit and the road ahead, you can smoothly alter course towards the exit usually straightening out your course, depending on traffic/view, and as the bank/steering comes off you can apply the power and move from the slight acceleration of being under drive to acceleration to leave the bend - for road riding, what your suggesting sounds like a lack of observation and planning in the first place that you would enter a bend and then need to be braking albeit gently - entering the bend at the correct speed keeps you safer and overall from A to B, I find that you cover ground faster because its smooth - the rider is more relaxed and consequently the ride that they produce is relaxed as well as being smooth, fast and flowing - many single vehicle accidents involve cornering and rider error is usually the cause due to setting up incorrectly in the first place - I'm a big fan of keep it simple and not over complicating things - regards from "across the pond" - best wishes and stay safe - Dale
That corner he used as an example is crazy! I would definitely slow way early to "control the traffic" as you put it. Of course there is danger there, too. The following vehicle might move to the next lane and his following vehicle might be going fast and not expecting a motorcycle turning in front of him and plow into him.
@@robertbrandywine - Hi Robert - apologies, I've only just seen your reply - interesting that I've put the bulk of this comment on half a dozen of these trail braking sites and never had a reply from any of them to explain to me that its the safest, most efficient way of cornering - I never got it in the first place but the lack of response speaks volumes.
It's a little weird that so many "old school" instructors are so opposed to teaching trail braking. It's like refusing to teach swerving, and telling students that they don't need to swerve if they go slow enough. But if you put them on an extremely steep downhill curvy road, trail braking stops being optional.
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I've been riding for 34 years and trail braking is one of those things I'm glad I took the time to learn. He doesn't mention it explicitly but trail braking means you already have control of your front brake going into the corner. If you get into the corner and realize your line is wrong or there is something you'd rather not deal with, you can use trail braking to change your line and/or speed without spending a lot of traction. In a perfect world, we'd already know what to expect in that corner, but life throws surprises at you.
So basically this technique is the act of going into the corner with front brake slightly engaged and than slowly releasing as you straighten out ? I need a very rudimentary and basic definition of what this technique actually entails. I do his first technique of slowing looking and than no break - just accelerate.. But apparently this technique is the same HOWEVER, you KEEP THE FRONT BRAKE engaged a little longer (carefully) and than slowly release . So in a nutshell, I guess this technique is simply keeping front brake engaged a little longer as you enter the corner ?
Been riding motorcycles about 50 yrs and the Trail braking technique is fairly new to me. This is the best explanation of it that I' ve seen. I will give it a try come riding season Thanks.
One of the the things I like about your videos is the detail you go into. It's those subtleties that go beyond the basic MSF instruction I've already received that keeps me coming back for more. Thanks.
I've learned trail braking differently. It is basically staying on the brakes, but with less pressure as you go into your lean into the curve, reducing further if more lean is needed and keeping the brake on, except if you need to add maintenance throttle (i.e. keeping speed to go through a longer corner). At any time you use throttle, you are off the front brake. In tight turns, you might continue to brake until you can get going upright and can accelerate out of the corner.
It is amazing to me in watching your videos how many of the maneuvers that I do all the time as a self taught rider learning by experience yet still find myself learning from you although I can no longer ride because of my health at 67 years of age I still watch and enjoy your videos Thank You !
Maybe a trike or bike with side car?? Best of luck to you with your health.
Hi Kevin I’m 77 and still riding around 20 ks a year. Most of my buddy’s are around my age and have been riding all their lives. There is only one Harley in the bunch. Mostly BMW or Japanese with some British bikes thrown in . A lot of them have vintage bikes. We have a lot of interest in trials events. We love our bikes and enjoy your channel. Thanks & ride safe . 🇨🇦
I've been doing this my whole life. Now I realise it has a name
Myself as well. Brought it to the street with me from dirt riding days.
same here brother :)
In my case I use combination of front and rear brake, had a nasty accident in my first day of riding with the garbing the front brake - old bicycle habits and after that I was very cautions with the front brake while rebuilding my habit to use only two fingers.
The bike being Intruder vs600 also helped - I learned to use both brakes and when I was on the R6 of a friend a car pulled on purpose in front of us , both other R6 fall - one locked the front brake and nearly roll forward the other locked it and fall.
And I was "the new rider" in their mind because I was riding sport bike for the 3-4 time :D
I will never understand the riders ( sport bikers in the most part ) explaining to me how they use only the front brake and how they don't need the rear one :D
I was and I am not perfect , but this is a good thing as I can ride and learn every day !
floydiangreen Same here haha. I didn't realize it until he showed him doing it, but was surprised once I figured it out haha.
Here too 😂 After I saw the first video describing what I was doing I was like "Heck for real it has a name? I really am a motorcyclist."
The idea with trail braking is that you ONLY use the front brake through half the corner. shifting the weight of the bike to the front tyre and creating more contact patch and therefore more grip. I'm pretty sure using both brakes is just slowing down with no advantage in grip levels.
Thanks Kelvin. I've read and heard the term trail brake, but you're the first to explain & demonstrate it clearly
I literally trailbrake every corner, street or track. Sets the suspension to the travel it likes best and is absolutely safe! Great explanation, sir!
Correction to detail. Trail braking requires that the front brake is applied EARLIER, not later. The effect of this is to change the geometry of the bike by unloading the back end by closing the throttle, and loading up the front end. If more braking is required, it can be safely applied. ( because it is already applied slightly, there is no tendency to snatch at it ).
The amount that it is applied is minimal, typically, only that amount sufficient to operate the brake microswitch, plus a smidgeon.
The term 'trail braking' is derived from the terms used to describe the front end geometry, namely 'rake' and 'trail' and does so because the trail angle increases as the front brake is applied.
I was a sceptic until a few months ago when I first tried it.....it works, it is safe, it is NOT just a racing technique, it should be taught as standard.
I thought the same as I was watching, you brake earlier but gentler and ease off as you tip over. I worry some people are gonna lose their life cuz of dodgy info on the internet.
I’m usually more of a visual guy but you did a great job explaining this to me and answered a lot of questions others left unanswered. Thank you
I just started riding again after many years and I found myself doing this the first time I brought the bike to the twisties. I started doing this instinctively and had never even heard of it before. I first though maybe it was a bad habit i should quit since i was under the impression you should never brake on a corner. After watching videos on the subject I can now understand what I've been doing and use the knowledge to improve my skills and safety. Thanks.
The most important thing to remember is get most of your braking done before the turn. Practice braking gently with as much finesse as possible learn to feel the brakes. Braking is something we should all practice every time we ride it will save your life. Good topic
I've never taken a motorcycle course. I recently started riding again after over 20 yrs and the first time I took my bike out on the twisties I found myself doing this on every turn. I usually use both brakes. I questioned if I was wise at the time, but I'm glad to have discovered I am not doing something that is considered too foolish. It helps to learn the theory behind what I'm doing and since I'll probably never take a course I really appreciate the advice you give.
I'm a noob, and this is the best trail braking vid so far. I like the calm and slow steady advice versus the fast talker type of guy. Thanks so much💪
Thanks for repeating the training on trail breaking. I understood the reasons why but confused about whether front or rear brake so you’ve cleared this up. Will be practicing .
Much appreciated .
Trail braking has a few benefits. It makes the front end geometry change because the front end gets shorter (compressing the front forks), which makes for less rake on the front end. Less rake makes for quicker steering ability. It helps your "nerve" from your fingers to your brain get better so that IF you need to stop in a "down hill, reduced radius, right hand turn" where your sight is limited, you are already on the brakes and can apply a little more before straightening up the bike to make a complete stop or go around the object in the road. Inexperienced riders "grab a hand full" in that situation and go down with the front tire sliding out from under their bike. Lastly, it trains your muscle memory to be "smooth" on the front brake rather than being "jerky" with a full handful of front brake. Good points Kevin, thanks for the expert opinion on trail braking....
A Babbit, great explanation of why trail braking (front brake) helps the steering in a turn. Dragging the rear brake toomuch in a fast or unknown turn actually causes the bike to want to stand up, right? Or similar.
I learn great tips from all the comments on this channel. Thanks!
Watched like 20 vids on trail braking, this is by far the most detailed with videos and analysis! 5/5 Thanks, can't wait to practice!
I was very excited when I read about this technique, so I questioned a number of my biker friends on whether they used it. Every one of them said "NEVER use your front brake in a turn".(2 of them have ridden for more than 40 years) I was a bit disappointed to hear that but I will keep and open mind and continue to check it out.
Bet more than half of them can’t explain counter steering either. Lol
Trail braking is fine usually, but if there’s debris in a corner, or if it’s wet, you can ask your tires to do only one thing at a time. Slowing and turning is a great way to lay it down.
As another brother, I appreciated your video that covered the eye injury, but the best was the life changing event!
Omg! This FINALLY makes sense! The actual demonstrations, especially the last one from the riders point of view were awesome. Every other video I’ve seen by other people made it seem like you trail the break into the corner while also keeping the throttle open. I actually do this but thought it was an incorrect technique. Thank you for the explanation and demonstration!
Is the essence: "Braking the front 5-10% (instead of rolling on) actually adds traction, thus allowing tighter (and/or faster) turns" ?
Great video! I've written a book and online course to teach trail braking to the average street rider. Your video here reinforces my theories and techniques. Best wishes!
An interesting explanation but for completeness you should add that it's the effect that the front braking has on 'fork dive' thus momentarily shortening the wheel base that makes it easier to get around the corners faster.
Love this channel for the soft smooth voice of this man.
Another facet of this is try to avoid separating braking from throttle. What I mean is there should be no appreciable interval between trailing all the way off the brakes and rolling on the throttle. It should be immediate. Otherwise the suspension pogo's from braking, no braking, then throttle causing potential traction issues. Particularly at higher speeds. It's a little tricky to manipulate the throttle and brake nearly simultaneously, but it is possible. On the track I'll even roll on a little throttle just before releasing the brakes completely to minimize suspension disruption. Not really a technique needed on the street, but if you start playing on the racetrack it comes in handy.
Your video had a good beginner explanation on trail breaking and I applaud you for it. I'm also going to tell you that it was reckless because the bikes setup determines how the bike reacts or doesn't react .
Guys the reason racers or track guys can use track breaking in such a aggressive way is do to several things. We set our suspensions both front and back, to our exact weight and also run good tires.
Now with that being said , the first thing you should do before going on your first long ride on your new expensive bike is adjust suspension.
90% of street riders have no clue on suspension so please educate yourself on this because you dont want to cry after you wreck that pretty bike. After you have tuned your suspension or had it tuned by a professional throw those stock tires in the garbage or put them on Ebay. Invest in a good set of tires, I promise you it is worth the money.
At this point you have a safe bike setup to start learning how to trail - break..
I've recently learned about, and how to trail brake. It has greatly increased my safety and confidence in the curves. Relying on engine braking alone to continue slowing while entering curves is a bad idea because that braking force diminishes as RPMs drop. For example: You close the throttle at 4000 RPM. By 3000 RPM you have only 56% the slowing force, thus rate of deceleration. That initial forward G you feel when you close the throttle is deceiving.
Thank you so much for all your videos.
I use this technique on adventure/enduro/trail bikes to keep the forks compressed, without doing it the forks will extend when you start to accelerate and run wide, with practice you can tighten a turn considerably or alter a line to miss manholes or sand and gravel. I've been racing and riding for 40 years and this is now second nature, and now it's got a fancy name.
Nice, but the highway example is not what I would be doing. I begin to slow and make sure the traffic behind me slows down rather than rush up to the intersection where I'm required to turn fast.
Another informative and educational video. I've used this technique fairly often living here in NJ.
The people here are not big fans of having to slow down for any vehicle, let alone motorcycles, to turn off our highways.
We do have large shoulders that I use whenever possible to slow, look, press and roll but when turning onto a side road and not another 'main' road your ability to trail break is very handy. Thanks again for your videos Kevin. And I like the new opening scenes. You're turning into quite the video making artist so to speak. 😊
Did this yesterday while negotiating a corner at about 79km/h on a bycicle. I went for the corner with too much speed, but i managed to regain control by trail braking into the corner apex. Also and very important: when you change tires, even if you change to the same brand/model, you should practice to avoid crashes in this critical situations.
Thanks MCRider!
Did you get your front stanchions to lower front end length giving better turn radius ? 😆
Sam-N7 Nevada 😂
Just getting into bikes after 30 year lay off. This is how I was taught to ride all those years ago (probably pressed & rolled more often ...lol). Brilliant video which made me look long and hard at how I'll be riding in future. Great job.
First time I watched your channel... I never heard the term trail braking before, but now I know what it is, I've done it many times since I ride (20 years ago). It's not something I've learned during my motorcycle course, but I've learned it out of necessity.
The technique is also very useful when entering a curve realizing my speed is too high. I use the front brake very lightly to reduce my speed during leaning over to maintain my "riding line" aka "road position". It works beautifully on (of course) clean and dry roads or even under wet conditions, but look out for oil, sand or dirt...
I occasionally use trail braking with the rear brake (foot brake) when the asphalt is brand new or patched up, then it can be slippery. Recuperating from a rear wheel skid is easier than from a front wheel skid. I learned that also, the hard way...
It would’ve been nice if you had a camera behind the bike and we could see when the brake light went on and off.
Watched several videos on trailbreaking that's the only one I understood 👍
Very clear, thanks!
One thing you don't really cover is how trail braking (front) brake allows greater compression on the front end, adding some stability via suspension compression. This is what makes it work better than trail braking the rear (rear dragging). This compression adds to overall traction as well, provided the brake is not released in one fell swoop, thus upsetting bike stability.
Trail braking the front wheel also shortens the wheelbase slightly. Shorter wheelbase smaller turning circle. You can feel it turn sharper even in the middle of a turn when the front brake compresses the front forks
John P - if you have ABS you’re going to be amazed at how much you’ll love your front brakes and how soon you’ll ignore your rear brake
@@drumsnbass Do you need to add rear brakes? or just front brakes? I've watched all MC riders trail braking but i always have the question on what happens with the rear brakes when trail braking.
DesaturatedBlue - no need for the rear, especially if you have linked brakes as many bikes do today. There’s an especially good video on trail braking on the canyonchasers channel. I encourage you to watch it. In my particular case, I ride a BMW with ABS and front linked brakes. I literally never touch the rear on pavement.
I just made a motorcycle holyday in Sardegna/Italy with 1800 km curves from a total 2000 km ride in seven days and sometimes it was very handy to use the trail brake technique. It workes also, when I unfortunately came once a little bit too fast into the curve.
Into 1st gear. Tap tap tap on break slowing cager (that is right behind you) down
Approach turn
Break front in a nice straight line slowing down then dip into turn only on the rear break and throttle and push steer as needed through the turn sharpening and looking in direction of intended travel.
This works for me.
The important factor here is also the amount of loose gravel on the surface. It could cause the brake to let the wheel bite and slide out causing you to fall. I find fear wheel brake application to be more advantages in town because of this. I am probably wrong but on M109R with its length I have adopted this practice.
I think in your situation, instead of already planning to use trail breaking, you might want to:
1) petition for proper ramps if traffic is as heavy as you say
2) exit earlier/later where there is a ramp
3) indicate early, including hand signs
4) plan ahead so that you aren't followed by other vehicles (easier said than done)
5) downshift properly in case you need to quickly re-accelerate
6) look behind you and for an exit on the left lane
Thank you Kevin. I'm still working on getting road ready- gear, cornering, u turns, slow speed control, .. I can't wait to hit the road but I'm not rushing.
I have a trial mountainbike background and I can confirm the physics behind this technique. I've been doing this for years, and now I do it sometimes with the motorbike too (650 V Strom). What I want to add, and what I noticed, is that you got to have the slack of the throttle cable, properly adjusted, just before "no slack" so, you can smoothly coordinate it with the other controls and squeeze it at the right moment with no "rev gap" so to speak ;)
I did a lot of dirt riding when I was a kid but I'm a complete novice when it comes to street riding (kinda why I'm here). I saw many comments here from people saying they've been trail breaking all along. And that it just came naturally. I think it would be wise to reconsider that. The go-to technique should be the slow-look-press-roll wherever possible (just as MCrider seemed to say) IMO. You have the best chance of getting through that turn safely that way because the wheels are turning freely. Otherwise- if you're in too low of a gear, or on the brakes the wheels are trying to do something else. Imagine coming across a nicer layer of fine same scattered across the road. You're best bet is to already be slowed down I'd say.
I'll practice my trail braking at stoplights sometimes. I had trouble with this in the advanced class, they told me to get on the breaks just before I stared to let off the throttle, then I was able to get the hang of it.
being old school i was taught to never do that. it was riding the breaks. the all the bull that it would cause.... 3 yrs ago i took the bike safety test and you are right. i now use it alot. corning and slow turning.
great stuff Kelvin....ty for taking the time to help teach
Thanks MC
I’m a totally new beginner and I’m trying to figure out how to handle the terms in the foothills
thanks, great video. I realized that I've been trail breaking without even noticing for a while now. You really give valuable details on this video. You have a new subscriber!
Great advice and awesome amount of detail. One of the best videos on trail braking I've seen.
This video is amazing with detailed demonstrations and all, unlike many others where they just talked. I will practice it to the T.
Kevin seems like a great dude.
Thank you very much
My instructor had us moving our arses over about half a butt in the direction of the turn when we started trail braking. I still prefer to just drop a cog and then the hammer. Great lesson and editing btw, thanks.
Sky King you had a clued up instructor... though dont be moving that arse mid corner mate.
That’s definitely how I do it. What my old man thought me and it works!!! Just drop a gear or two before a sharp turn.
You share some incredibly useful infor on your site. You have probably saved numerous riders from an accident.
I don't like braking IN a corner due to the increased possibility of oil, antifreeze, grease, tar strips, etc., causing either tire to slip. So I follow the MSF instruction to do all braking while the bike is upright. I might incidentally use the rear brake part way into a curve but my toe is just feathering it. Maybe one day I will have to exercise braking gently with the front but my mishaps on bicycle has mentally trained me to tread very lightly on the front brake if I'm not moving in a straight line!
If I have to exit a multi lane road where the speed is high, I roll the throttle a ways before the turn to create some space between the following vehicle, then I get close the right side and do my hard braking while still vertical that way I can release the brakes when I actually do enter the turn.
Your suggestion to feather and then release the front brake is top notch information. I know a few people who slid off a curve because they locked the front tire in a curve, went down and slid into the grass.
I'm starting to feel the technique on mi bicycle, then i'll start using it in the motorcycle...thanks again for such amazing video...
I trail brake every corner not because I'm trying to use a racing technique, but because I believe it's safer. I know many people say it's more of an advanced technique and can be dangerous if used incorrectly, but so can many other things we do in life. That's why you learn those techniques and become proficient in them.
I believe trail braking is safer because on some corners where visibility may be hindered you already have the brake covered and applied in case there is something in the road you didn't expect or if the corner tightens up and you have to lose some speed. Just letting off the throttle may not be enough. Now if you have to add brake, you are probably going to over-brake or as most people do - panic, stand the bike up and go off the road.
If you have to slow down once you are committed in the corner, you have room to adjust your speed and still have traction left over if done correctly. And that's where I think people say trail braking is dangerous - they seem to think trail braking is racing and is to be used to take every corner at the limits of traction and the turn radius. No. It's just a technique that allows riders to take a corner faster and more efficiently but not necessarily at the limits of the tires or rider's skills.
Learn it now and don't let the first time you try it be when you need it.
Great info, so glad I found you MCrider, I need all the knowledge I can glean and much more practice, I am gaining confidence with every view, thanks.
I need to use this technique frequently where I live. Specifically in three situations:
1. Cars here drive fast, and stop in the RH lane dangerously close to corners. Drivers have to take the middle lane before turning right and maintain traffic flow. So braking needs to be sometimes uncomfortably late, to get out of the path of speeding vehicles.
2. Looping on-ramps are often preceded by a nearly 20 degree decline over a bridge. If I didnt brake well into the corner, I would be over (no trail braking) or under (straight line braking) speeding as reached the start of the ramp. When you've got a bus bearing down on you, or if you read the next point, neither of these situations are advisible.
3. As I have mentioned, cars often stop dangerously close to corners (before, during, after), but there are also extremely harsh camber, new potholes or any number of road objects which means being able to adjust your braking or line during a turn is very important.
Thanks Kelvin! learned something new today
all the while i thought trail braking is used on car driving only, and i used it a lot to shift weight to the front during corner for more front traction. Today learn something new that i can apply on my riding as well
I had a terrible scare about 5 years ago at a Honda demo riding day. I signed up on the CB1100 because that was the only bike left. I was 3rd after the leader in a group of about 12. The year before I had tested the VFR1200 so I felt I could handle the CB. At the time I rode an ACE 750 for about 12 years so I thought I was all it. The leader had some skill and decided to really step on it. After about 10 minutes we went around a right bend that was bending a bit too much at one point - something I didn't know beforehand. I slowed before the bend so I was sure I had it under control, however I decided to follow the leader as he was maintaining his speed in the bend. Before I knew it I came very close to the double-yellow line on the road and I got scared that I was going to overshoot it. I applied more rear brake and leaned even more and I kept the bike just inside the first yellow line. Just at that moment a F-150 came from the other direction and he was less than a foot away from the other yellow line. So basically I cheated certain death at the time. I had gotten so scared that I went home that day I put my bike away and called it quits. Because of the love of sports I did a post-game analysis of what happened about a month later and learned that what I went through happens frequently, but less frequently are people who come back to the sport. I found a couple of RUclips videos which basically explained what I had done wrong. One of them actually said to retrace my way and conquer the corner, and unless I did that I would never go back to motorcycling. I did and I understood the following: I punched above my weight and it almost cost me my life. 1) I chose the wrong bike - too powerful; 2) I chose the wrong positioning in the group - 3rd is for people who know how to ride fast; 3) I used the logic that I had tried the VFR1200 before and therefore I would be okay with the CB1100. Surviving on the street (car or motorcycle) comes down to a delicate balance between A) machine; B) environment; and C) people. Years later I realised that what had saved me was "Honda" - why? Because the CB1100 had a combined ABS braking system, which is basically a computer doing very fast analysis of a situation to know in what proportion the braking should be done so you don't lock up any of your wheels. Call it idiot-proof, I call it the gift-of-life. Had the bike not had the combined braking system, and with me continually applying the rear brake and leaning I would not be here writing this for you to read. Conclusion: try to keep those A) B) C) in mind and there's a good chance that things will work out. Have fun out there!
Mircea A sounds like the summary of your experience can be distilled down to one simple statement: bigger is not always better.
a description of the technique that i can actually understand... pertinent as the UK has roads half the width of your neck of the woods
Bunnyshooter 223 exactly that, the countryside is often in woodland or surrounded by shrubs demarcating fields, and European cars tend to be much smaller.
Great vid! Thanks. But I also think I would approach your DOT to request an angled exit at that intersection!
I've been watching your videos off and on for a little while since I recently got another bike after an 8 year hiatese. I've become very concerned with learning more about riding and more or less how to overcome "accidents" I do Intend to take a riding class when i can find one in my local area.
as far as trail braking is it a good idea to mention also Incorporating this with engine brake for tight high speed turns. and I thought it would be good to mention knowing the roads. for instance trail braking in a corner that may have some debri or pavement that doesn't really help traction would be a bad idea if someone doesn't know how to negotiate out of the circumstance. I'm just trying to bring up points riders need to be aware of that I may have missed in the video. regardless i appreciate you taking the time to make and share these videos. so please keep it up.
I live by trail braking as I'm from a racing background . I always surprised by how many people don't know about it. It's more dangerous not using it and especially now with abs you wouldnt rode any other way . Trail braking is corner dependant. On the type of corner it's not hard to work it out
That is true,Kevin. I'll give your method a try.
This may have been a comment already, but trail braking also allows the tire to flatten out for more grip. Putting your knees out to create drag also allows you to keep the throttle rolled on to some degree, then tuck back in exiting the corner.
I don't think putting the knee out is to create drag as much as it moves the center of gravity out further. I'm not a sports bike rider but i do use that practice often.
340rps That's what I was taught when I was road racing
Both knees out will create drag.
First explanation I actually understood. Thanks!
Never heard of trail braking before. Nice explanation and instruction.
I have always done this from my car to my bikes. Never knew it was a thing it just came natural.
I use trail breaking often, it's just a riding style I have developed through the years, generally speaking I want to get in and out of the corner as fast as reasonably possible.
I feel somewhat vulnerable while transitioning a turn, your options are somewhat limited while leaned over so I want to negotiate that turn quickly just in case I have to stand the bike up.
For example; Turning right off of the State Hwy. onto my street there is a little store on that corner that is close to the road, there is pull-in parking starting just after the corner which means people back out when leaving.
So this back-out is close to both the road I'm leaving and the one I'm turning on.
You will have to stand the bike up quickly to avoid these people and it is not their fault, they check the corner before backing and it's clear, two seconds later I'm there.
Sure I could navigate the corner more slowly but like in this video I'm coming from a highway to a side street. If I'm to slow I risk getting rear-ended.
This riding style is why I do not like linked breaking, I also like a slipper clutch in the event I selected the wrong gear or heavy rear breaking while turning. ABS is probably good it works good on my car but I learned and have survived a half a million miles without it, I would have to learn hard breaking again If I had it.
Trail braking is also useful if you misjudge a corner speed a little. Say you noticed the apex had sand after you had already set your braking point and entry. Being comfortable with trail braking allows you to compensate. I generally trail brake into corners I know, and leave that option open on corners I'm less familiar with.
Always enjoying your videos Kevin. I think I've watched this one previously and used it as a refresher this time. I've been riding for 1 year and have put 8000 miles on the motorcycle. I recently attended an advanced motormen slow cone weave and other safety measure course. The course was done very well and I learned a lot and sharpened my skills at low speed, however I brought up trail braking when questions were asked in the class and the instructor said it is never to be used on the street, it kills people and it is a track thing only and that's all he wanted to hear about it. I was a bit embarrassed and feel ignorant to have even brought it up. After all he was an accomplished motorcycle instructor and competition slow cone rider for many years. Why was he so adamant about the technique and is this something that is prevalent with old school riders? Not trying to create controversy, but now I fear trail braking just a bit and I have tried it in the past. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated and would be designed to help me through this mental dilemma not to go back and bad mouth anyone. I am too old for that nonsense.
You did nothing wrong in asking the instructor about trail braking. But it is certainly a valid skill to use on the street. It is definitely not a track only tactic.
@@countryjoe3551 thanks
This man does not blink. Ever
thanks for the useful video.!
i have watched countless vids on this subject and ride both a sportsbike and cruiser. I found the example you used on the right turn you make to go home most relevent to most street riders. I have never been on a track and probably will not. I also found that, like many of your expereinced watchers, i was unconsciously using trail braking. But now that I'm aware I can hone the skill.
i feel like he was staring into my soul during this video lol
I scroll up until I can only hear his voice. This makes the video much easier to watch.
USE THE FORCE LUKE
he knows you touch yourself at night
I knowwww. I was like let me hide one eye.
@@TheChimidashark lmaoo
Front breaking puts more weight yout bike to the front wheel increasing its ... the opposite effect happens on the rear wheel, so you better avoid breaking it ...
That convinced me for (carefully!) trail breaking in general, because it even opens up more options for reacting to anything unknown/unexpected happening inside that curve ...
Thank you! I have a similar turn and I just want to get the bike out of traffic asap. Regular turning techniques feel like I'm going to be rear ended, and braking in the turn always set off the noon alarms. Braking to where the lean and turn is set up seems to get my butt out of traffic quicker.
I am using your lessons every time on the bike..so helpful..practice,practice!
Love your vids, wish I subscribed earlier!
Another solid video, Kevin. Thanks. It's a bit of a validation for me. I find myself employing this technique at an off ramp near me where from the one lane off ramp from the freeway you can go straight or turn right. Only about 100 yards to make the turn and when the light at the end of the off ramp is green, I can have cars riding up on me pretty quick. I've used trail braking and it's a very good technique for a smooth turn. Thanks again.
There are places in the road where it does come in handy.
MCrider yes indeed. I meant it makes for a smooth turn in those specific types of situations, certainly not all. By the way, the cornering series was very helpful also!
Although I clicked this vid because I was interested in trail braking, I actually really ended up enjoying the sound of that awesome bike. Nice.
So-Ko Moto something about the sound of a Triumph parallel twin...some people say it sounds like a sewing machine, but I think it sounds like the purr of a cat.
thx for taking ur time to show us how to save our lives and cycle as well :)
so i have been trail braking all my life and didnt know it, thanks man
I'm in the same boat I always thought that's how your supposed to do it nobody taught me that I guess it just came naturally to me it makes me feel good to know I was doing something right keep your motors running and stay safe my fellow riders
Three yrs ago I took an advanced riders course. Trail braking was taught.
Love your weekly vids! Thank you for the weekly training tips.
Thanks great explanation...I get it now...after 40 years of riding with feel I'm figuring out what it is Im doing right and why I have never had an accident ..learned on dirt when I was about 9 years old. I hope to sportbike for the first time this summer. Trying to get a jump on the vocabulary in classes I am going sign up for. ...Gary in Colorado..p.s. I have an eye just like yours from racquetball injury so I feel a kin to y'all. Did time in Austin... Daughter is an engineer in Arlington. TX. But I digress. Lol thanks again MC.
im a new rider, this is so useful. Thank you, and i will def be a supporter. :)
I've been watching a couple of your videos recently, they're full of great tips, ta very much.
Sir, could u make a video on how to ride taller bikes...hoping, halting, etc
i love your videos. you are so sincere and feel responsible.
I just naturally do this. Never even thought about it. When clicked on it was trying to figure out what it was.
Im sure it would feel natural to alot of riders, Ive been doing this without realizing it was trail braking when I was in Motorcycle Riding school.
"Trail braking" is variable just like the "friction zone" on the clutch. There is not a "set" amount of trail braking to use, it depends mostly on the tightness of the curve and the pavement surface. You would never "trail brake" on ice, snow, sand, gravel, etc. "Trail braking" can also be accomplished to some extent with engine breaking. The whole point is to throw the weight of the bike/rider onto the front forks while also slowing thereby increasing your front tires contact patch. I've been doing this for 50 years without knowing the fancy name of it. Note: Always look in your mirrors before doing any kind of breaking. Be aware of your suroundings, always, 360.
Thank you Kevin for providing informative and well executed riding lessons. Isn't the desired effect to slightly shift weight to the front wheel to increase traction? What I do know is control is more positive and she tracks better.
I always trail brake to some degree. I’ve been riding for over 50 years, and I’m naturally “efficient”. (IE I’m fast without drawing unwanted attention to it.)😎
Thank you sir.. great explanation..
can't believe 147 dislike this vedio!! Sick people..
They must be cagers.
Not sick, just dumb or unwilling to learn and think they know better.
You make no mention of using the rear brake - using the rear brake, feathering it, with the power on will tip the bike further into the corner whereas using the front will try to lift the bike up (which can result in the wheel shooting out from under you especially if the road is wet, as you noted).
Note the rear brake with power on, just a little power not closed throttle.
If there is a better m/c channel on YT, I'd like someone to show me THAT channel. This is great stuff. Still learning....at 58 y/o.
Harmless farmer..enjoy
On loose surfaces the front brake might just slide the front but I either feather the front brake or drag the rear a little instead
I didn't like your example of when to use this to make that right turn - allowing another driver to push you into making a manoeuvre at a speed that you're not happy with is not justification for doing it - slowing earlier to control the following traffic would work better here and be safer particularly if the bend had a loose surface that you can't see on the approach - I'm not sure I get the benefit of this - if you setup right in the first place you, don't need it and why put all that constant wear and tear on your brakes - certainly for road riding I think its unnecessary and on any sort of loose surface you could be sitting in the road - interesting also the idea of going into bends shut down and then powering after the apex and going from nose down to nose up whilst the bike is banked over - your bike is most stable when its travelling in a straight line with the engine just pulling so replicating this in corners creates and holds stability and consistency until the steering comes off and the power goes back on - setting up for corners by getting all your braking and gear changing done on the approach and having the bike under drive at the entry point for the bend, sets the edge on the tyres, balances it from front to back and by holding that drive steady on the way in and, as you start to bank means that there is nothing for you to do but steer on one smooth stable course - as soon as you have view of the exit and the road ahead, you can smoothly alter course towards the exit usually straightening out your course, depending on traffic/view, and as the bank/steering comes off you can apply the power and move from the slight acceleration of being under drive to acceleration to leave the bend - for road riding, what your suggesting sounds like a lack of observation and planning in the first place that you would enter a bend and then need to be braking albeit gently - entering the bend at the correct speed keeps you safer and overall from A to B, I find that you cover ground faster because its smooth - the rider is more relaxed and consequently the ride that they produce is relaxed as well as being smooth, fast and flowing - many single vehicle accidents involve cornering and rider error is usually the cause due to setting up incorrectly in the first place - I'm a big fan of keep it simple and not over complicating things - regards from "across the pond" - best wishes and stay safe - Dale
That corner he used as an example is crazy! I would definitely slow way early to "control the traffic" as you put it. Of course there is danger there, too. The following vehicle might move to the next lane and his following vehicle might be going fast and not expecting a motorcycle turning in front of him and plow into him.
@@robertbrandywine - Hi Robert - apologies, I've only just seen your reply - interesting that I've put the bulk of this comment on half a dozen of these trail braking sites and never had a reply from any of them to explain to me that its the safest, most efficient way of cornering - I never got it in the first place but the lack of response speaks volumes.
It's a little weird that so many "old school" instructors are so opposed to teaching trail braking. It's like refusing to teach swerving, and telling students that they don't need to swerve if they go slow enough. But if you put them on an extremely steep downhill curvy road, trail braking stops being optional.