+Caleb Baker Very true. After all, it's all about studying and learning, one way or another. No-one holds the truth, we are in a way of learning it. This is the only real way to walk.
Problem I see its not even strapped to you as that will limit the amount you can pull it away as this is just free holding it instead of the sword mounted to your back.
+chungdha It's possible by effectively rotating the straps of the scabbard around your body. I think a clue to the actual use might be implied form Metatron's observation that the strap needs to be loose. You would probably have a bight on the front of the strap which you could pull to drop the strap into the 'draw ready' position. This might have been used in the same threat effect as the american west draw back of the coat showing you are preparing for action. Still the prime reason for back holstering would be comfort for long periods of time which are compromised when side loading the body. For this reason most ceremonial and later model side scabbard mounts had their load points on the belt very wide apart so as to approach the center line of the body. This is very well seen on sword mounts of the 18th and 19th century.
+chungdha with my nodachi tied to my back the right way i can holding the handle simple pull the sword out an inch while untying a simple slip knot just pull and saya falls down and sword is free to swing
+chungdha There are also schools that teach you to hold the saya in your hand when you draw, fighting with the katana one handed with the saya in the other hand. In those cases you will not have that problem at all and allowing you to draw cut from from angles that otherwise need much bigger motions.
I like how you addressed your mistake and corrected it publicly. Very respectable indeed. I have a tendency to draw from the back but I use a different method: I leave the belt or cord a little loose and to draw I pull the sword over my shoulder and forward towards the target for a draw cut. It works because the scabbard will slide into a more ideal position and with a slight pull on the belt I stop it in the best place. Also I'm 187 cm so my arm is pretty long.
The only time you'd have to draw the sword and cut with the same movement, is when you're ambushed from close distance. Say, in a dense forest where attackers can appear from behind a tree close to you. In all other instances (non-ambush situations), you'd just draw the sword any which way you like and prepare to meet your opponent in combat.
i still think you're getting one thing wrong; you're doing it all WITHOUT strapping the scabbard to your back! off-course having a free scabbard would make all of your combined movements (either when drawing or putting the sword back) much easier/ but if you're just holding the scabbard in your hand there's no real need to draw it from your back. please, do me a favor, just try strapping the scabbard on your back. i have a feeling it will answer a lot of questions. btw like your channel, good work.
+Adam Srugo Very easy to get by that: You strap it to the back in a lower position with some space to move. When drawing, you first lift the scabbard with your left, then grab the handle with your right, then draw as seen in the video. You can try that out for yourself with a traveling bag. Put the strap over the right shoulder while carrying the bag on your left hip, then haul the bag behind your back and up. If it doesn't work, alter the length of the strap. I've often carried traveling bags that way and can confirm that it's possible to have something strapped to your back and make it move in the exact manner the scabbard does in the video.
+Adam Srugo agreed - not tried it with my katana but with my long sword when i rigged up a strap to hold it over my back and keep the hilt within reach with the weight of the sword in the scabbard it needed to be fairly robustly mounted and pulling it down well your kinda pulled against where you've secured it - i found it easiest to secure it over the shoulder and to my belt so pulling the scabbard down will give yourself a frontal wedgie (if there is such a thing either way its not good) i suppose an elasticated system could work but did they have much robust material with elastic properties in the middle ages? i really cant see this working for anything other than short swords and for carrying rather than wearing interestingly in a manga i did see a sword mounts horizontally across the small of the back (again a short sword but it did look quite practical)
John Pattullo Hm, I hadn't thought of someone trying to grab the strap. Maybe that's because it would be just as easy to grab the collar of an armor, or any normal clothes one is wearing. And if you have the opportunity to grab something on the chest, why not use that opening for stabbing instead? It's not slower than the way shown in the video, since you can simultaneously lift the scabbard and reach for the handle. It's slower than the hip draw, sure. The point of the shoulder mount is not high-speed drawing, but to carry it easily while being able to draw at a reasonable speed. But that's kind of a moot point to me. I was exploring the Idea from a "Is it possible" angle, since my preferred option is a completely different one. Personally, I'd avoid using a closed scabbard anyway. If walking around with a sword at the ready was a necessity, I would probably have the blacksmith make me a half-open scabbard that covers the edges, but only holds on to the tip and guard rather than the full length of the blade. Lift the handle just a few inches and the blade is free. Or an almost closed sheath with a slit on one side allowing me to slide the blade out sideways. There are several ways to fix a blade to one's back that work, if one is able to think outside the box.
No Name with a half-opened scabbard you immensely risk your blade sharpness... remember that a sword carrying warrior would spend significantly more time just walking around with the sword in the scabbard - which it's main purpose is to enclose and protect the blade from dulling, while shielding the carrier from being cut in the neck & back - rather then fighting with a sword in hand. the act of drawing a sword only seldomly occurs. while in the meantime your half opened scabbard is damaging your blade from exposure, bumping with your armor and hitting rocks every time you sit down. you have also probably cut yourself in the neck and back a few times from the exposed balde while endangering those around you. so sure, you could be the most awkwardly dressed swordsman on the battlefield, just so you'd look like the dude from "the witcher", but i would really advise you against it... there ARE several ways to fix a blade to one's back that work... but they work so poorly. none of them offer a better overall experience then the normal "boring" way. they don't even come close... the half opened scabbard idea isn't outside the box :\ it's very well inside the box, probably at the bottom of the box, along with all the other ideas that solve one problem but cause 30 more.
I suppose it would be possible with something like a swordpack or strap instead of a saya, but then that's a risk since there's nothing between the blade and cutting anything they knock, and nothing protecting the blades either.
+Metatron All I have to say about this should be incredibly obvious; If you want to draw a Longsword from a back-mounted position with your *right* hand, just position the hilt over your *left* shoulder. - You can't draw a long sword from your right hip with your right hand, _why would it be any different on your back_ ?(Sorry, but I decided that if you're going to post two videos on the subject, I'm going to post two replies on the subject -- Thus increasing the odds that you'll actually see one of them.....)
+Metatron ....Actually, since I continued watching your videos after posting, I _had_ noticed that. However, while I *did* want to make a point, I didn't really want to be a jerk about it..... Nice job on your "...Real Accurate Historical Presentation..." in regard to the Ninja, btw. About time someone started dealing with that mythology. I'd have pointed out that the inception of "Ninja" movies was a direct response to the popularity of the James Bond films of the 1960s (Bond also being a spy/assassin) - but that's just me.
One technique I've considered is to have the scabbard secured to a baldric above the shoulder blade, but either left loose or resting in a hook at the belt line. That way, the length of the scabbard would lift away from your back and allow you to draw the sword forward and down, giving you a few inches extra drawing length. That wouldn't help with a two-handed sword, but for a katana or single-handed European blade around a yard long, it can make a difference. By reaching over your shoulder with your left hand and lifting the scabbard to near horizontal, you can even re-sheath. It's still awkward, but it's relatively practical.
I recall an article from a '90's issue of Black Belt magazine that discussed the Korean sword art of Gumdo (kumdo). The article disussed a particular way of carrying the sword horizontally across the back at the waist and the techniques of drawing and cutting from that style of carry. A quick look at RUclips hasn't produced any videos that display this method unfortunately.
that's sort of what i thought... if the scabbard is loose it can be pulled or droped down so you can unsheath easily... i often play dungeons and dragons with my friends and despite the fact that it is high fantasy we try to keep it as legit as we can... i had this problem with a ranger who uses a greatsword as a secondary weapon and that means that he can't carry it over the shoulder unsheathed so with the player we figured out a way that could potentially solve the problem... the scabbar is tied to his back with 2 belts, one of them sustains the scabbard on the back and the other sustains it on the hip. the point was that releasing the "back" belt (the belt buckle is on his chest for quick access) will make the scabbard drop all the way down to the hip leaving the grip of the sword at the reach of the right hand so it colud be unsheathed... and it was really loose so if needed the scabbard could just be pulled or repositioned to ease the unsheath... after the battle you could sheath the sword on the hip and then adjust the belt again... si it is unsheathed on the hip and carried around on the back
If you're talking about a two-handed greatsword (aka Montante/Zweihander) the problem with your solution is these swords are much too long to be drawn from the hip as they come up to chest height! They're about the same size as poleaxes so were also typically used as PRIMARY weapons with a sidearm as backup. Matt Easton (Scholagladiatoria channel) has made a few videos about them that are worth checking out to get an idea of their size and how they were used. A more suitable primary weapon for a ranger when outdoors is the longsword (aka hand-and-a-half or bastard sword) which could be either worn on and drawn from the hip or strapped to the back. Aragorn is probably the most well known example of a ranger equipped like this in fantasy fiction. We see him carrying his bow and quiver on his back in the second film (The Two Towers) as he pursues the orcs who have abducted Merry and Pippin. His longsword remains at his side but he also wears a long dagger on his other hip as a secondary sidearm which can be drawn more quickly if necessary. Jon Snow's Longclaw from GoT is another example.
With a typical european sword, I think you need a special scabbard to draw it from the back. If the upper part of the scabbard had a cut that leaves a part of the blade's edge exposed, it would be possible to draw, as it would slide out on the side. But this would not really be historically accurate, I think.
+ScarecrowLP | Let's Plays mit der Vogelscheuche That's not really all that practical. The top rim of the scabbard has a very important function and you don't really want to compromise that. Firstly, it creates a somewhat good seal against water, which a slit in the side of the scabbard would compromise. Secondly, it usually has a tight fit, so the edge of the blade doesn't bounce around and get dull. A slit in the side would cause the sword to bounce around in the scabbard quite a lot, dulling the blade in the process.
naphackDT Well, that makes sense. But I never meant, it would be practical, just possible. In fact, I think that the only swords you can draw this way practically have to be either really short and/or strongly curved.
+naphackDT Scabbards with a slit at the back existed historically for curved swords like shamshirs, because they could not be drawn otherwise due to the strong curvature of the blade. In this case a tight fit to the flat of the blade is enough to keep the sword secure in the scabbard, though usually with the help of languets.
As far as 5 foot video game swords- usually the sword just sits on the back with no scabbard but when jt does- if you slow down the foostage of the draw you can see that either the sword usually clips through the top part of the scabbard as if the scabbard were intangibld
I have actually seen someone carry and draw a longsword from the back a number of times. There was a local group of guys who periodically staged fights with medieval arms and armor near where I lived in California, and one of them made his own rig for holding his longsword. Basically, it was a custom partial sheath tied in two places, one loose loop low down the sheath tied in the middle of his back, and one loop around the mouth, which was secured with a slipknot at his shoulder. When drawing, he would grip the cord holding the sheath up with his thumb, and draw the blade, pulling the knot loose as he went. The sheath would fall further down his back until it caught in the lower cord, and he had enough room to free the blade. Now, he couldn't easily resheath the blade, but then, generally if you're in a position where you are able to resheath your blade, you've got plenty of time to do so. Note that this was with a longsword. I seriously doubt this could be done with even a claymore-length blade, much less a full zweihänder.
During the Boshin and Bakumatsu wars Samurai carried swords on their back. They didn't need a quick draw or an instant resheathing, they'd be doing saber charges essentially when revolvers and muzzleloading rifles ran dry.
The problem with wearing it normally would be running. It always seemed really uncomfortable to me. It's probably like a phone in a loose pocket but 10x worse and heavier. On the back you probably can't even feel it.
Reaching behind your back with both hands to draw a sword? What a fantastic way to get stabbed in the chest before the fight even begins! I'm learning so much useful knowledge here.
I asked you to do this but you already posted it. I'm going to start watching you as I do Lindybeige, Skallgrim and ThegnThrand, but I would continue to like to see topics they don't pick up on.
In fact, the idea of a sword in the back, if we consider a long sword, the sheath would be attached only at the top (closest to the shoulder) doing so, that when the swordsman unsheathe the sword the tip of the sheath would persist back and he would pull the sword forward. The sheath is not completely stuck in the back, it "ties" on the belt at only one point.
Witcher 3 always bugs me when you draw silver or steel. Zoom in and you can see a good half of the sword clipping through the scabbard. Even better is when you're sheathing your sword in a conversation or cutscene and can see him clip through the scabbard about halfway down the blade.
Caleb Farmer: as I comment on previous video about swords on back, Geralt in books use swords with unusual measures: the blade is 27,25 inches (69,215 cm) long, the whole sword is 40,5 inches (102,87 cm) and weights less than 40 ounces. Both swords have similar weights and sizes. This is measure of the one handed sword with longer grip and could be draw without problems (and ofc he use the method mentioned in this video, Its writed in the Season of storms novel). The game just uses normal longsword size of the swords (around 130 cm in real) which is in case of witcher wrong because witcher swords are special. But the sword with similiar measures as witcher swords really exist: hemareviews.blogspot.cz/2013/09/16th-century-longswords.html (picture 22.)
Great presentation thanks. I don't think anybody naturally tends to carry a blade on their back, but I think people get inventive when they want to carry lots of blades. People have always been very clever.
+Richard Ashley i was thinking about this cuz they have have a very sharp curve. But depending on the scimitar, it could be too wide. All in all, I think its less about the curve and more of the straight-line length and loose room in the scabbard.
I see some extra disadvantages here: 1. The normal advantage of having the sword strapped to your back is that it's out of your way when you're not using it, and that the scabbard is out of your way when you have your sword drawn. If the scabbard is free to slide, it'll slap around all over the place, even worse than one that has the draw end fixed to your hip. 2. Assuming you're wearing armour, it will expose your armpit as both a cutting and a stabbing target. When you're wearing your sword fixed to your hip, the cross-draw exposes the strongest parts of your side-armour, namely the outside and backside of the arm. 3. Options: With it attached to your hip it is possible to draw with the same-side hand if your other arm is wounded. It works easily with overhand, but it's not that hard to do underhand wrist twisted inwards over the handle, and it's harder but doable underhand wrist twisted outwards. All the same options you get with a reverse-hip mounted pistol. Plus underarm and backwards, which lets you do it at point blank, if your scabbard isn't a two-point fixed one. (or the sword any long at all) That one won't work if your back is up against something though. 4. Back-draw is difficult or maybe even impossible when your back is up against something. 5. If someone's too close to your face, the minimum forward distance to perform a back-draw is basically the length of the sword. With cross-draw the sword is already between you and your enemy. With hip fix and same-side draw, you can always perform a back-draw, and once your sword is fully unsheathed it basically has its point against the torso of the other person.
junoguten Yes it's still better to have it on the hips definitely, but in case of a warrior having to climb something for example it could potentially make sense, considering you can still unsheath it ^^
I am no expert in Iaido (who can claim that?) but I have trained for some years in the art, though I prefer the old styles (Kobudo) of Kenjutsu. In my experience drawing for the back is too impractical and too slow compared to drawing from the hip. As you say, drawing from the hip gives you more options for the initial cut but also allows you to use the tsuka, if for some reason you cannot draw your sword entirely, you could defend at some extent using the tsuka and even hit with it. When you draw from the back you are open to all kind of attacks without any meanings of defense. Also, the position of the sword makes the cut very inefficient, that's why many cuts in japanese styles start from jodan kamae instead of going all the way from the back. Finally, pulling the saya away from the sword was no secret, you learn that in almost every kenjutsu school, it is called sayabiki. In few words, drawing from the back it's uncomfortable, slow, inefficient, the attack can be predicted easily and leaves you with many openings, that's why you will always prefer drawing from the hip, although it was common that Samurai carry their sword hanging from the back with the sageo cord when they needed to have both hands free, like when climbing. Nice try but not enough.
Charley Davidson I actually agree with you I also prefer always to draw the sword from the hip ^^ I have recently made a video talking about kobudo as opposed to more modern styles ^^ It's a bit superficial as a video so for you it might have many infos you already know but still it could be entertaining to watch perfaps ^^ Talk to you soon in the comments mate
Metatron That's great, usually when people talks about japanese sword styles they forget about the old schools, I'm checking that video asap. If I can suggest a theme I would like to see a video about the similarities between Japanese Kenjutsu and HEMA (specially talking about longswords, which is the center of many Kenjutsu styles). Usually people make the (pointless) question about what style is better but very few speak about the similarities. For me is a very interesting theme because what worked in Japan also worked in Europe and those shared stances, cuts, guards, etc. are tried and tested around the wold and in my point of view you could say that those are the very essence of sword fights.
First of all these video's have been very nice and informal. Since you seem to be interested in actually making the back draw a considerable option in combat i have thought of a few ways to improve the holster to make the back draw more efficient. 1) Wouldn't it be possible to make a custom holster witch is basically cut open on the top on one side of the blade. this will allow the sword to slide out of the holster even when the point of the blade hasn't fully reached the top of the holster. 2) Also would it be possible to create a slightly tilting holster witch will tilt over your shoulder. 3) Also when you increase the width of the holster (at the entrance) there should be more room for the tip to slip out of your holster. But why would you want to make a back draw. Because it seems quite a strange way of drawing a sword and you won't have a lot of attack options. 1) First of all it might be useful in a diplomatic situation. Since when you have your sword on your back it seams like u will not be able to defend yourself. So the opposing party thinks you trust them more while actually you still have a drawable sword as backup. 2) Also this will allow a horse riding knight to carry a longer sword with him to draw when he loses his primary weapon this is a great advantage because he will still be able to deal more damage to the enemy at a bigger range regardless of the fact of still riding the horse or not. 3) When traveling you will look more vulnerable this can be a big strategical advantage when you either want to bait somebody to attack you or want to look like you are an "innocent" traveler.
Chi Pa Pa Twirling a gun is pretty easy, in fact it's weighted in a way that kinda makes it naturally spin around your finger, plus it's safe if you just make sure the safety is on and there's no ammo loaded. Swords don't have a safety, and while it's easy to spin it around in your hand, throwing the sword up in the air and catching it by the blade is extremely dangerous.
Now, I wouldn't particularly use a katana for drawing from the back. I can't remember the correct term for it, but wakazashi comes to mind. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe that that's the shortsword variant of a katana. It's well within arm length for a draw.
Perhaps you had ought to try this with the scabbard actually secured. It hardly seems practical to have it on one's back if it can be pulled about a lot; surely there's a limit, less than the length of the arm, upon how much the scabbard can be pulled down. It also looks to me as though the over-the-shoulder draw-cut would be remarkably weak and not very useful.
The only thing i have seen that looked theoretically possible for the two-hander is to us a hanger rather than a scabbard on the back. So it hooks on the top part of the cross guard and then covers the tip of the blade. Great video with excellent demonstrations of how to and technique. Thanks again Metatron.
Ohhhh, you meant when it _is_ tied down. My apologies. As of which... I don't know. I also don't know enough about swordsmanship to answer your question.
You can just have a strap that goes around your body and is attached only at one point on the scabbard (the top). Say what you will about this guy, but ChosonNinja did a video showing this with the scabbard tied to him (if you want my opinion of him, I do not find him fully trustworthy but I do find some of his own ideas interesting and would like to improve on them). I can also see a two-point baldric if the lower attachment is actually flaps brought together and held via a magnet which can detach when pulled down.
They made scabbards with locking open portions on one side at the top where the hilt usually touches. It effectively makes the scabbard shorter for the purposes of drawing, but still mostly protecting the blade edge. The open portion was only about fist wide and about 1.5-2 times that in length so it's possible that gave room to draw up from the back and then backwards out of the scabbard. That might also allow for easier sheathing since the top of the scabbard would then act as a guide for the blade. You should look into trying these and see if it makes much of a difference.
+TheChillimouse You have a loop, but I suspect strongly that this wasn't done to carry the sword on the back but behind your shoulder. Than the sword is hanging nearly vertical, It doesn't bother you as much as it would if it be carried on your side and it is not tangeling around like it would be on your back. You would still draw it over your back. This is also to the peaceful carry method for a sword: handle upwards behind your shoulder.
+TheChillimouse Thats quite simple: it is not attached. Allthough the katana can be drawn over the back, it is not worn on the back. Tha katana is put through the obi (belt) and carried on your side, then befor drawing, it is twisted in the obi to the back with your offhand. This was done to hide/disguise your drawing and of course only makes sense if your opponent doesn't see you puting the sword behind your back. Source: we have been training this a few times in ninjutsu
+TheChillimouse the strap or rope that would have been used would have been loose enough to allow the scabbard to move enough to facilitate the draw while keeping it in place. Since that is not the way a samurai used a katana it could lend credibility that a ninja might have used a method like this. Though with the cruved blade and scabbard if could have been tight to the back if the curve was placed against the back allowing the curve to work with you rather than against you.
The way I learned to draw a katana you allways draw the saya, even when it is from your hip, with the same principle as you point out. You gain speed and you can draw in a shorter distance that way. Also there is a technique to draw from the back (sort of) but where the katana start at the left hip, edge upwards (standard style). Take the saya in your left hand and put the handle behind your back making the sword go almost horizontal with handle right and blade left. Then you grab the handle with your right hand (palm upwards and elbow above the sword) and then extend your arm right a little bit to get your elbow in front of the sword. As you still holding the saya in your left hand this will initiate the actual draw. Then put your right hand over your right shoulder (the blad will be about half drawn) and then do a draw cut from above or diagonal from the right. This might sound stupid, awkward and entangling and it surely is in the beginning. But after you have gain flexibility and added some foot work (yoko aruki) to it you can actually draw cut quite quick and that from an angle that is very uncommon with a katana. This is a technique to use when you have something or someone in front of you. Lets say you have a partner that are directly in front of and very close to you, attacking the opponent from the left or straight on then you can step to the right hiding you movement behind you partner and attacking the opponent from an unexpected angle without risking to cut your partner. Also work around pillars or trees and the like. The first part of the movement, the motion where you put the sword behind your back, can also be used with a shoto/wakisashi for a reversed grip cut from the right side, opposite how a ordinary swordsman would move.
I'm not sure about the other games in the series, but in The Witcher 3: Wild Hunt, When sheathing and drawing one of your blades, there's a brief animation where Geralt's left hand does grab the appropriate scabbard to assist in the process. Just a little neat thing to notice that CD Projekt Red paid attention to
So it involves having the scabbard not being strapped hard to your back... You need to move the scabbard down, or rotate its strap around to achieve the movement needed. Nice amendment then!
Cam raiD What if the top 8 inches of the scabbard could open on the edge side of the blade? These could be activated mechanically by the initial part of drawing the sword. Then you wouldn't need to occupy your other hand to draw. Also, if the doors stayed open, then you could use them as guides for re-sheathing.
Cam raiD The Japanese have loose scabbards that they tuck into big sash/belt things. So it s possible with that get up. But it is still pretty rubbish leaving you completely exposed while you draw. As soon as you have finished climbing or whatever put it back in the proper position at your hip.
While I have zero idea about how historical they are, I have seen a variant scabbard used for various swords that is an "incomplete" one with a clasp that banded around the top that could be opened when you wanted to draw the blade with the thumb, when it was closed, the sword would remain in position as with a complete scabbard, but about half the length (or more) of one side of the scabbard was open to allow an easy draw when the clasp was opened. The release also allows a wider area for sheathing it that is closed tight when the clasp is closed.
Knechtor Yes I still prefer to put the sword at my hips, but maybe in some situation like climbing somewhere or going down a steep slope I could see the point of this, also because the sword can still be drawn. ^^
Metatron I have an answer for that (well for the katana) Actually as practionner of Japanese weapon (7 years of trainning and not self taught... Dojo style) to me the sword in the back is to be prohibited... it's better the slide the scabbard from the hips the the lower back, reason being: the sword is never removed... if you are climbing then I assume it's some stealth. Are you to pause your mission to have the time to place your sword from your back to your hips. and the problem Keeping the sword on your back: Iai masters When you unsheath your sword from the back, you are wide open for attacks. it may only take half a second to unsheath. put for a Iaijutsu expert is enough time to go for the kill. Keeping the sword unsheathed, is not an option either, as only little glow will reflect upon the blade and get you discovered.
Mr.Jordwell I totally agree with you, infact I always prefer the sword on my hips no matter what. The only thin that I found interesting is the idea that by pulling the scabbard it would actually be phisically possible to draw it. ^_^ So now when I see a game where it happens atleast I don't get mad and think that there is a fantasy reason for that choise of placement ^_^
Metatron First I have to apologize, I didn't meant it as a rant against the video, knowing you're position on the subject. It was more destined to people who would go: But Metatron what about the ninja.
I have spend a fair bit of time walking around with various objects carried on my back (hiking, fishing, hunting) and can say that having a weight like this, loose enough to enable the draw as you demonstrated, would be annoying as hell to walk around with for any length of time. Then, if you are going anywhere with bad weather, you are likely to be wearing some sort of cloak or similar protection. Will the sword go over or under? Will the hood interfere with the draw? Do you have to re-fit your shoulder harness every time you take this cloak off or put it on? And then there's the interference it will have with wearing a pack, I do not recommend traveling with an iron bar being smashed into your back by the weight of a pack, it sounds like a great way to get awful sores. Then after your journey gets uncomfortable, you try to sit down and realize that the blade prevents you, so you decide to carry the damn thing in your hand for the rest of the journey. Oh, and ceilings, so good luck when you bow to your enemy in order to get your weapon out, or worse, chop into an overhead beam. Ultimately, this boils down to: you might be able to accomplish an over the shoulder draw, but why bother when a hip is so much easier, more comfortable, more versatile, and is attached to a belt which you are likely to be wearing anyway? Can anyone provide a good reason that this would be preferable over a hip draw instead of just proving that it CAN be done?
+seniven Well, you wouldn't use it indoors really... unless you have an extremely high roof... or you are sitting down. The shoulder draw, if you can preform the downward slash whilst doing it, is an extremely strong powerful blow. This downward slash is usually aimed towards the head or neck, which causes your opponent to step back or to flinch or move back. You could also preform an altered overhand slash angled more from the side instead of straight downwards. A main advantage I can see though is that, after the downwards strike from the draw, you are set up for a quick horizontal/diagonal follow up strike/parry as you usually have your arm somewhat diagonally crossed in-front of your body, which is a more natural and stronger position to swing the sword (think baseball bat strike comfort) rather then having to do an inward strike after following the more common slashing strike from a hip-draw. (the arm, after the hip draw, is usually more towards the outside of your body for the second strike, which causes you to lose speed and power) You also get the advantage of drawing it instantly in front of you in the upright position, whereas the hip-draw you have to move your wrist to get the sword pointing in the same direction. Though it depends on how fast you are compared to your opponent. Again, this is more aimed towards a shorter sword (think Gladius size) rather then the larger sizes which you cannot preform the downwards draw strike effectively. Now, for the carrying it in inclement weather, you'd generally want it under your cloak (you want to protect it from the weather). The hood wouldn't be an issue as you wouldn't want it up in a fight (it would drop in your eyes with you moving), you just have to be sure that the guard would clear the cloth when you took it down. You wouldn't fight with a pack on so you wouldn't have the sword on with it, or if you do, you'd have the pack on tight enough where it'd keep the sword pressed to your back, not banging around. If you got into a fight and needed it, just you taking off the pack would let the sword go back to it's drawing-looseness. Ideally, you'd have a rig for the shoulder strap to stay tighter to your body for carrying it, and something that is a quick release that would drop down to the drawing position/looseness . Sorry for the long-windedness of this reply, kinda kept thinking of more and more to write as I went on. Hopefully this gave you some ideas on how it could, potentially, be a good reason to use this type of draw.
Michael Marchese ahah no I use a iaito, so the blade is dull ^_^ I would never perform a technique on a sharp sword without having practiced for months and months ;) but thank you for the concern ^^
The problem with this is that if your scabbard is loose enough to be pulled that far, you might as well not have it as it's just going to flap around and flog you. On the up side, an army wouldn't need to stop to administer discipline. Edit: That is not a fucking *zweihander*. That's Aragorn's long sword. A "zweihander" is a type of great sword, or, to put it in a way that everyone can understand - if you're 5'5'', and it isn't considerably taller than you, it's not a zweihander
The Crimson Fucker Zweihander literally translates to "two hander" long swords are generally used with two hands as aragorn even did in the movie, making it technically a two handed sword. I personally prefer using "zweihander" to describe the massive german greatsword but he's technically not wrong
***** Zweihander, while it means that, is used in reference to greatswords - which longswords are not. So, when you say "Zweihander" you're going to be understood as saying "Greatsword", not "technically any two handed sword", conventions of language exist for a reason - we speak the tongue that everyone can understand, not the one we find more pleasing.
The Crimson Fucker Thats what it has been used to reference but that doesnt make someone wrong for using it according to its literal meaning. Someone isnt wrong for thinking its the "common" meaning but the person using its literal meaning isnt wrong either
***** Except that he is. Always use commonly understood terminology(unless it's erroneous, in which case using the proper terminology, even if not commonly understood, is better). A Zweihander is a greatsword, and it's not a greatsword unless it's upward of 5'6(usually around 6 feet or 180 centimeters, actually). End of this bard's tale.
The Crimson Fucker 1.) Who concluded these rules? 2.) There are no official measurements to something being a greatsword, same can be said about most sword types and terminologies, you pulling these measurements out of nowhere 3.) "Zweihander" was a term that originally referred to hand and half swords which then progressed onto mainly reference greatswords, its just preference. Same thing with "claymore" which means large sword but is very much references the basket hilted sword used in later periods. You're inability to not be right, is kind of annoying
Thanks for making both this video and also the previous one. Having seen so many games and films portraying long swords of various kinds carried on the back, I found it quite enlightening to see both this video and the previous one. Thanks for doing this research and also making the live demonstration of how it would look when actually done with swords. :-)
There is a back draw but is only done in certain circumstances as it's not the quickest draw. The sword should start of in the belt as normal and is pushed around and dropped so no pull on the scabbard is necessary when drawn. This would normally be done when crossing behind something so your opponent can't see the movement as when the sword cuts (as it did for you with your draw) it cuts from the right shoulder which is the opposite side to a normal draw cut (which means two people can attack one at the range time and safely draw together. (I hope this makes sense)
Metatron is looking more epic as each video goes by! I expect he soon wont begin videos, but only step out of the darkness to answer your personal weaponistic quandaries the moment before you think to ask them.
Also thanks for making this video!! it does seem like this practice would be employed in very specialized circumstances despite the loss of defensive utility. I am happy to see that you mention the offensive techniques implied in the paragraph below. I would be interested to see what sort fastening hardware one would use to affix the scabbard to ones back. I would like to add another, potentially, very important reason that a swordsman/fencer would draw ones sword from the opposite hip and that is that it makes more sense defensively and offensively (offensive utility mentioned in the video including the repost in prime 😊 . I won't comment in-depth but i think it would suffice to mention that the first guard one achieves when drawing from this position is Prime meaning 1 and is a guard/parry/reposte that will protect ones entire inside line from incoming cuts and thrusts. Drawing ones sword from the back would provide ones assailant with a huge opportunity/tempo to strike directly to the "Vita," the body, additionally the head, making the practice just a bad idea. This applies despite the method above. I'm not an expert on the Eastern Arts but I believe some research into the techniques of Iaido would shed some light upon this. (as you also mention 😊) Once again thank you, and Kind regards, LancetFencing. P.S. I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on the practicality of gripping ones sword with the pommel up and point down as seen in so many anime and theatrical presentations.
I suspect it would also be possible with a small modification to the top of the scabbard. Imagine the scabbard like a box: normally, it is closed on 5 sides and open on the top. If you opened one of the sides, you could pull an object out without drawing it directly upward. Opening a scabbard all the way on one side won't work, because the sword would just fall out - but what if you only opened it part way? i.e. if the sword is 2' long, make the scabbard open on one edge from the top to a point 1' below the top. This would effectively reduce the distance required to draw the sword by 1', because you could pull it sideways/rotate the sword to release it after the first 1' of vertical draw. True, I doubt there are any historical examples of this, but I'm putting it here to suggest that it may be possible to accomplish this without moving the scabbard, even with the largest weapons.
One error often made is the need for a "fast draw" like a movie gunfighter with his tied down holster. If you are walking or even riding it can be more comfortable to carry a Claymore or other great swords on your back. a lands knight had a shorter sword on his hip. The great swords were drawn mainly in battle when you could usually see the enemy coming from over 100 yards away.
I had a similar thought about the behind-the-back draw - that you could use your off hand to tug the scabbard down to clear the blade. but there's a problem with this whole idea. All of your demonstrations were done with the scabbard held behind the back with your left hand. In reality, I can't see a swordsman walking around holding the weapon behind his back with his off hand. A bit silly, don't you think? I'm going to assume that wearing or carrying the sword behind your back would use some kind of strap or baldric mount, which would be easy enough to make. But you would want such a strap to hold the blade close to your body and steady, rather than letting it swing and flop around while you walk, run, or ride a horse. If it holds your sword high enough that you can grasp the hilt over your shoulder, then any secure mounting would not be easily and quickly pulled down with the off hand. If you can show some way to actually WEAR the sword and demonstrate the over-the-shoulder draw, I'd be quite interested. Until then, except for short blades, I'd say the over-the-shoulder draw remains in the realm of fantasy.
Actually, in my style of iaido, since we fight with the sword in the saya most of the time - a bit like staff fighting - we have a technique derived from staff fighting, where the saya is brought around to the back after a blunt strike, and the sword is unsheathed in a more powerful slash. we never keep a sword on the back though, and rarely even in the belt because of the nature of the style. I am absolutely certain that a katana of any kind was never sheathed on the back. (except maybe a dai-katana for carrying :) )
Just for information: One that has true Katana skill would never strap a Katana on the back. Besides the possibility of injury to the person drawing the Katana, the Katana itself would very likely be damaged sooner or later. A Katana can be purchased from one's local Asian goods store at one's local shopping mall for a few bucks. But, practical use swords are going to start at about the $300.00 range. A more finely made Katana can be purchased for $1000.00 to $3000.00. A Katana made in Japan will start at about the $6000.00 price range. The way a Katana is made can be deceiving as, from looks alone, one might not be able to 'see' a difference in a $300.00 Katana and a $6000.00 Katana. By Japanese standards a $6000.00 Katana is 'acceptable'. At the $20,000.00 to $50,000.00 price range the Katana is 'good'. At the $70,000.00 to $100,000.00 price range the Katana is 'great'. This is due to a number of things including the number of laminations that were put into the blade (I'm not talking about folds as they are something different). So, keeping the Katana from being damaged is paramount when drawing and returning the blade to the Saya. When the Katana is returned to the Saya (scabbard) one does not look at the Saya opening. So, performing noto when the Saya is on one's back is not a visual problem, but you can't hold the Saya properly to perform noto with it on your back. With the Katana strapped to your back there is only one real way to draw the blade - the way shown here. But, drawing the blade is an art - Iaido. There are four basic and distinct ways to draw a Katana: horizontal draw with a diagonal cut, horizontal draw with a horizontal (side) cut, vertical draw with overhead cut or rear stab, reverse grip vertical draw. These draw/cuts could never be performed with a Katana strapped to ones back. How can you tell someone that has no real Katana skill? Watch their left hand when noto is performed and watch to see if they use their fingers to guide the blade. If yes - no skill; that would be laughed at in a dojo.
Not a sub, and this video is old, but I like to point out when people are good. You bring up why you are wrong in your own video, which is awesome. People don't like to do that, so good on you. I am now a sub.
Finally drawing longer swords from the back has been made possible by pulling the scabbard down. Hope they will apply this new drawing move to Witcher 3 with the next patch :)
and there is an other way. The scabbard does not have to be strapped to your back along the entire length. It can be tied only at the top so if you pull out the sword, the scabbard will angle from your back. So you pull the sword not up, but forward. Maybe it would work even for the bigger swords.
sweat drops: when drawing from the back you don't need to put the sword back into its sheath with the sheath on your back, if you win the fight. since wining most often means you killed those acousting you, you can simply remove the bandaleere holding that is attached to the sword and sheath the blade. then put the sword back on your back as you are walking away. Then when you stop for the night you sharpen and oil the blade so it is sharp and will not rust do to exposure when your attacked again.
I have used this technique to draw a long sword off my back for years. However, with regard to replacing the sword - and drawing it - a lot of your problem with European swords specifically is that you don't have a good sheath. You have a decorative sheath that is mostly useful for storing and protecting your blade from the weather. A good combat sheath should have a leather flap at the stop, and when you push the sheath up to the top of your shoulder with your left hand, the leather flap falls down over your right shoulder. You then place the point of the sword on the leather strap, and slide it up the leather to guide it to the opening of the sheath. Furthermore, a good combat sheath should be made of hardened leather, not plastic or metal, and should be shaped kind of like a funnel. The top of the sheath is supposed to be very wide and loose, so it's easy to get the tip of your sword into the wide hole at the top of the sheath, then as you move the sword further into the sheath, it narrows down at the bottom to hold the sword more secure. The sword is held in place from the tip of the sheath, so that when your sword is fully sheathed, the hilt should almost not need to touch the sheath at all to hold the sword firmly in place. This also helps your draw length, because by the time you get the sword to the edge of the sheath, you have a lot of wiggle room. The sword no longer needs to come out of the sheath straight to unsheath it. You can finish removing the sword at a 15-30 degree angle from the sheath, greatly increasing the length of sword that you can draw over your back, the ease and variety of draw positions, and the ease of replacing the blade.
You would still need a construction of belts around your body so the sword and scabbard stay in place while you're not using it, but you could still move the scabbard a lot.
put the scabbard between your shoulder blades with top level with the base off your neck and draw the katana , make sure the curve of the blade is inline with arch of the draw and the sword should slide right out, mine does any way, you cant put it back but thats the point when your carrying a weapon on the back and out of the way of other tasks like scaling a wall, its still there however when things hit the fan.
I’ve considered making a custom sheath for the back where one side of the sheath, there is an opening, enough for the sword to fit through, with little studs every 9 in. so the sword cannot slip out, and as you grip the sword handle, you click a small button that pulls the studs away and you can draw your sword from the side, therefore you can where it on your back :)
Hey Metatron. I've seen you doing it a lot of times: Never put your fingers on the Katana itself when you put it back into the Saya. Rest the back of the blade on the muscle between your thumb and your index finger of your left hand and draw the Katana forward. Just let the tip fall into the opening (koiguchi). That's much safer and looks more professional! Other than that, thanks for your video!
Try putting your thumb on the flat of the 2 handed sword blade and using that as a guide. Since it's straight it will go right in. Also, try actually fitting the scabbard to a sash or bandolier or belt to see if it's possible when the sheath is attached. I tried it at home with a saber and found it rather hard to do. Maybe you'll have better luck.
I'm not sure how you carry a zweihänder on your hip. It seems to me that one might carry a sword on their back, but loosely without the expectation that one would draw it quickly. The alternative I would guess is to carry the sword over the shoulder by the scabbard with the hilt up (due to the hilt being heavier?). I don't see an efficient way to draw a long sword (not "longsword") while wearing it.
So what you could have for the strap is a something similar a carabiner and a loop on the sheath. Obviously, a modified carabiner that would allow a faster unhooking with a locking mechanism your finger could flip. This would allow a the scabbard to be quickly detached and reattached to the strap. Just an idea.
I'm just saying right now. mega respects for you on camera just admitting and correcting when you are wrong without anyone telling you so. it really takes a lot for anyone to ever do that. mostly on youtube when you big, i luv it man ! once again major respects and thats an awesome pride man !!! been subbed since that video of the sword unsheathing from the back by the way ! so kinda new
Aren't you forgetting the fact that the scabbard would be tightly strapped to the back? Hence controlling it with the left hand wouldn't work as is being shown here. I'd stand by your previous video.
There is no perfect solution, but I will give you options. My avocation is working/restoring knives/swords/hatchets/machetes and dealing with the problems of sheaths and carry systems. For the modern foot soldier/hiker/civilian, the behind the back/over the pack solution is probably optimal. And, you want it secured for reasons of consistency and quietness. Unfortunately, one size does not fit all. So, you end up with a series of adjustable straps. Moreover, if you are a belt and suspenders type guy, you anticipate that you will fall and don't want the sword to come out. I can modify the crummy leather/synthetic material sheaths that sometimes accompany a sword/machete. However, the results are not aesthetically pleasing. In the field, leather is a poor choice for sheathing material. You would have to have multiple attachment points on a wood sheath, meaning custom work. When you see the draw from behind the basic, think of human ergonomics. You do a windup. You don't fall into the movement. Like in martial arts/tango/dance, you do a wind up so you control the movement and don't just fall into it.
I had a LARP-sword (Elbensäbel) much like a katana and often I used it a different way. The blade was along my arm (the sharp part outside). This sword was shorter than my arm (The blade goes up to the middle of my upper arm. I carried this sword on the back. But the hilt was down under the arm in which I fought. So in drawing the sword, it was already in fight position. The only problem I know is, that the sword has to be fixed in a scabbard. But that would be rather easy to handle.
I can think of an easy way to do it with the scabbard secured, but you wouldn't be able to use a standard scabbard. You would have a scabbard that only fully encloses the blade part of the way (at the bottom) and then runs up the side of the blade that is against your body to protect the wearer and would essentially have "hooks" at the top to ensure the sword is unable to fall out and would also act as a guide to sheath it. If you would like, I could draw it up... I think it would look pretty badass honestly
It's an actual thing, with a bit of scrolling on google images you should be able to find it. i believe when i looked it up i searched for half back scaberd
It's an actual thing, with a bit of scrolling on google images you should be able to find it. i believe when i looked it up i searched for half back scaberd
It's an actual thing, with a bit of scrolling on google images you should be able to find it. i believe when i looked it up i searched for half back scaberd
if the scabbard was able to move freely at the bottom (only fixed towards the top) then you would be able to ark it over your shoulder more, thus being able to draw your sword.
If the scabbard was detachable at the top to the shoulder strap, you then just detach at the top as you pull downward, and then continue to unsheathe. Then resheathe in front of you and reclip it to the back.
What about holding the scabbard with the blade pointing to the left, so the katana curves to the right. Then draw the sword to the side. The curve will help shorten the drawing distance.
I happy that there is way to draw from back . . . but then I asked question from my self . . . Where would I want the "scabbard" (?) be? At your back or side? and you could make the scabbard lose enougth for you to lif the weapon up befor drawing to make the motion ^_^ but then it would be swingin around your back when you move :D
I'm not an expert too (in Iaido) but from what I learned, even with the classical side draw-cut, you HAVE to pull your scabbard while drawing your sword. Basically.
I get what you say bout the length of the arm for drawing from the back, however I would question that scabbards and sheathes on the back are attached to a chest strap, roughly at the shoulder blade, seeing as most scabbards are attached at the shoulder blade when/ if even wielded on the back (though definitely in video games and movies), this would allow the scabbard to move slightly as the draw occurs, allowing the sword to be tilted over the shoulder when drawn granting a slightly larger range of motion... I only say this cause I am a massive lover of fantasy and sword fighting type games to see and remember this alot
Thing is when a sword is on your back, it's most likely strapped on to you which means you won't be grabbing it with another hand, and you also won't be able to move it down like he does in this video.
The problem I've with this one is that if you need to draw because a guy want to attack you, you completly expose you shoulders and all we need to do is charge you with a sword and you'll not be able to do anything. I know that you prefer drawing form the hip, but yes this is working, but you would probably died before you've even draw it if your opponent is realy close. When you draw from the hip you can attack at the same time or parry. From the back I don't find a way to do it properly and as I said early you expose a hugh hole into your armor, for an experimented sword man it would be easy to aim that weakspot and if he arrive to contact realy fast you'll he can block your armed arm with his shoulder while stabbing you in the weakspot under your shoulder, and catch your other arm with his free hand so you can't even try to take an other weapon to defend yourself or to hit him with your fist. So yes for me it worked, but will it against a real opponent?
Bit off-topic, but one more way of dagger-attachement I don't see a lot: if you have a dagger or a knife, a good way to attach it is with an elastic/bendable scabbard across the belly, handle diagonally down and towards your draw-hand. You'd wanna have a piece of cloth or something hanging over it covering it from sight (like the bottom of your shirt), but not from being reached by your hand. The golden rule here is that say you're pinned to the ground or back against a wall, when the back of the dagger/bottom of your hand touches the ground, the point is by that time A out of the scabbard, and B out of the squeeze between you and tip pointed towards your enemy's side. Don't worry, unless you're anorexic or your opponent is Andre the Giant, such a blade will still be long enough to reach his goodies through his ribcage. Basically this is the stab that it's really freaking hard to stop someone from doing almost nomatter how well you got them pinned to the ground, and no one else can really see what's going on between the two of you. Heck, you can make them think he attacked you with the dagger and just lost. Alternatively you can bump into someone, grab a hold of their wrist and force the appearance of a struggle before doing it. Thought this would be a cool kind of move for a video game or something.
Metatron Thanks :) I'm working on learning 3D animation and programming for anime/video games/mods, but I'm nowhere near the skill yet. I imagine once I am though, I'll be happy for hanging around these parts of youtube. Can't wait to get some proper swordfighting into those mediums, considering what most people think it looks like :-P
You could use a modified sheath with two slits or holes on opposite side of the top and bottom, so you can draw it at an angle as opposed to straight out.
A short curved sword (a cutlass, for example) and a scabbard with a flared "mouth" is the best option. The curvature will allow you to draw in more natural motion. It will permit to do a slashing draw with easy, even with a bit longer sword. A flared scabbard will make the sheathing easier since it funnels the point and guides the blade. Try it, and reply how it was.
You could, also, have it lower down.. and move the sheat higher up, to have it get in easier. And if the sheat is heavy(er than normal), you could also unsheat it a single hand, while the other hand is busy. I'd choose to have the weigth near the part that would be closer to the ground, and maybe some kind of an elastic so you can have the hole be at the same place, on your back, when you push the sheat up, a bit. That way, you'd only need to drop lower a few centemeters/inches, in order to have the entrance of the sheat be at the same place. I would definetly have two swords on the back up, one normal sword, and a smaller one, eventually with an army knife on the back, a bit above the hips, as well as a inverted back sword with the entrance on the opposite side, which would also be my main hand (left, in my case). So the knife would be paralel to the ground and for the secondary hand, while the inverted back sword for the main hand, would have the entrance of the sheat down the bottom, as well as the handle, and the other end of the sheat up, so it won't wiggle so much, but still could use some kind of elastic or counter-weight, for easier pulling it out. There are other things, like having the reversed-back-sword being smaller and with a smaller hand-guard, but it is possible to carry multiple weapons like that (say, for example, you have bought them and need to carry them, but also need to carry your groceries, which you can drop, in the case of a fight, in order to survive, but not unless you have to fight). I don't have a sword and good enough camera to show what I mean, sadly. If you want to know more about "my vision", feel free to mesasge me.
+Sapioit I also tought of a different type of sheat, which would make use of either magnets or springs, to allow it to be opened and closed where the blade would be. That way, the unsheating would only imply to grip your hand on the handle and drag it down, possibly causing whoever is at your back to be cut by your sword.
If the scabbard is strapped loosely enough to pull down, body movement and the wieght of the sword will slowly work it down to its lowest point. This means that when you try to draw the sword you can't reach the handle or pull the scabbard down any further until after you have adjusted it. If there is an immediate threat you are disarmed. Nor do you have time to waste on pulling a slip knot. If there is no immediate threat, rather than adjust it on your back your time would be better spent moving it to your waist from where it can be drawn more quickly as your hands are closer. Carrying a long sword on your back is deffinitely only for comfort during long periods in a safe environment.
But I think the point of your last video is largely correct. It would make a lot more sense to carry a shorter sword on your back because of the ease of drawing it. Putting it back is probably going to be difficult, but that's not critically important in a practical sense. The idea of carrying it on the back is mostly for ease of bringing it to a location. But then on some rare occasion, you might need to pull it out and use it. Then you can take whatever time you need to clean the blood off from it and to put it away.
it works only because you hold the case too. if the sword case was held there by a belt then when you tried to pull it downwards it would follow a circular pattern and you would get your sword stuck in its case due to friction
...I guess the biggest problem with having a sword on your back is that it's extremely uncomfortable. Always had a machete thing I had on the side straight across under the backpack - that worked. Easy to draw and put away, even if it stuck out on the other side - guess it could be something like that with a somewhat larger blade - that you'd put it loosely on the side of the shoulder, in a way that you could flip it down and pull it out crosswise. Or over the shoulder, if you wanted to, after you'd push up the scabbard to reach for the sword? Because fastening it so it wouldn't be smacking you on the head, and also be free enough to reach for, would be a neat trick.
He admitted he was wrong...this is a real man. I don't want to duel this guy.
+Caleb Baker Very true. After all, it's all about studying and learning, one way or another. No-one holds the truth, we are in a way of learning it. This is the only real way to walk.
well u cant just go around assuming everyone is right.. or ALWAYS right..especially with information being discover everyday
tom nguyen It was proven in a video before our very eyes, Sherlock
lol doesn't change my philosophy , im not saying this video is wrong btw..but if facts were ever to change dont be surprise
+Caleb Baker Still unhistorical.
The scabbard isn't secured to your back. It needs to be secured to be able to truly test this idea.
In which case, it fails anyway, because if secured, it would be secured loosely
Oh great lord, Chair-sama. Deliver us from Kurosaki-kun and let Aizen-dono destroy the main villain of the last bleach arc!
+Raven HOW DID THAT COMMENT GET A LIKE
Raven oh worry not for all is an illusion.
He says it at the end..........it has to be loose.......
Problem I see its not even strapped to you as that will limit the amount you can pull it away as this is just free holding it instead of the sword mounted to your back.
you can get enough movement around your back to do it easily, i managed with a katana and i have shorter arms than metatron.
+chungdha It's possible by effectively rotating the straps of the scabbard around your body. I think a clue to the actual use might be implied form Metatron's observation that the strap needs to be loose. You would probably have a bight on the front of the strap which you could pull to drop the strap into the 'draw ready' position. This might have been used in the same threat effect as the american west draw back of the coat showing you are preparing for action. Still the prime reason for back holstering would be comfort for long periods of time which are compromised when side loading the body. For this reason most ceremonial and later model side scabbard mounts had their load points on the belt very wide apart so as to approach the center line of the body. This is very well seen on sword mounts of the 18th and 19th century.
+chungdha with my nodachi tied to my back the right way i can holding the handle simple pull the sword out an inch while untying a simple slip knot just pull and saya falls down and sword is free to swing
+chungdha There are also schools that teach you to hold the saya in your hand when you draw, fighting with the katana one handed with the saya in the other hand. In those cases you will not have that problem at all and allowing you to draw cut from from angles that otherwise need much bigger motions.
+bmxriderforlife1234 Very good point that is easily overlooked!
I like how you addressed your mistake and corrected it publicly. Very respectable indeed. I have a tendency to draw from the back but I use a different method: I leave the belt or cord a little loose and to draw I pull the sword over my shoulder and forward towards the target for a draw cut. It works because the scabbard will slide into a more ideal position and with a slight pull on the belt I stop it in the best place. Also I'm 187 cm so my arm is pretty long.
The only time you'd have to draw the sword and cut with the same movement, is when you're ambushed from close distance. Say, in a dense forest where attackers can appear from behind a tree close to you.
In all other instances (non-ambush situations), you'd just draw the sword any which way you like and prepare to meet your opponent in combat.
AudieHolland I agree 100%
Now try it with the swords attached to you. Whole different ball game my friend.
Laydown Delivery just make the strap a bit looser so you can pull the scabbard at least
i still think you're getting one thing wrong;
you're doing it all WITHOUT strapping the scabbard to your back!
off-course having a free scabbard would make all of your combined movements (either when drawing or putting the sword back) much easier/ but if you're just holding the scabbard in your hand there's no real need to draw it from your back.
please, do me a favor, just try strapping the scabbard on your back. i have a feeling it will answer a lot of questions.
btw like your channel, good work.
+Adam Srugo
Very easy to get by that: You strap it to the back in a lower position with some space to move. When drawing, you first lift the scabbard with your left, then grab the handle with your right, then draw as seen in the video.
You can try that out for yourself with a traveling bag. Put the strap over the right shoulder while carrying the bag on your left hip, then haul the bag behind your back and up. If it doesn't work, alter the length of the strap. I've often carried traveling bags that way and can confirm that it's possible to have something strapped to your back and make it move in the exact manner the scabbard does in the video.
+Adam Srugo agreed - not tried it with my katana but with my long sword when i rigged up a strap to hold it over my back and keep the hilt within reach with the weight of the sword in the scabbard it needed to be fairly robustly mounted and pulling it down well your kinda pulled against where you've secured it - i found it easiest to secure it over the shoulder and to my belt so pulling the scabbard down will give yourself a frontal wedgie (if there is such a thing either way its not good) i suppose an elasticated system could work but did they have much robust material with elastic properties in the middle ages?
i really cant see this working for anything other than short swords and for carrying rather than wearing
interestingly in a manga i did see a sword mounts horizontally across the small of the back (again a short sword but it did look quite practical)
+No Name slow and overly complex in an emergency and it leaves the straps loose and available to be grabbed
John Pattullo
Hm, I hadn't thought of someone trying to grab the strap. Maybe that's because it would be just as easy to grab the collar of an armor, or any normal clothes one is wearing. And if you have the opportunity to grab something on the chest, why not use that opening for stabbing instead?
It's not slower than the way shown in the video, since you can simultaneously lift the scabbard and reach for the handle.
It's slower than the hip draw, sure. The point of the shoulder mount is not high-speed drawing, but to carry it easily while being able to draw at a reasonable speed.
But that's kind of a moot point to me. I was exploring the Idea from a "Is it possible" angle, since my preferred option is a completely different one.
Personally, I'd avoid using a closed scabbard anyway. If walking around with a sword at the ready was a necessity, I would probably have the blacksmith make me a half-open scabbard that covers the edges, but only holds on to the tip and guard rather than the full length of the blade. Lift the handle just a few inches and the blade is free. Or an almost closed sheath with a slit on one side allowing me to slide the blade out sideways.
There are several ways to fix a blade to one's back that work, if one is able to think outside the box.
No Name with a half-opened scabbard you immensely risk your blade sharpness... remember that a sword carrying warrior would spend significantly more time just walking around with the sword in the scabbard - which it's main purpose is to enclose and protect the blade from dulling, while shielding the carrier from being cut in the neck & back - rather then fighting with a sword in hand. the act of drawing a sword only seldomly occurs. while in the meantime your half opened scabbard is damaging your blade from exposure, bumping with your armor and hitting rocks every time you sit down. you have also probably cut yourself in the neck and back a few times from the exposed balde while endangering those around you.
so sure, you could be the most awkwardly dressed swordsman on the battlefield, just so you'd look like the dude from "the witcher", but i would really advise you against it...
there ARE several ways to fix a blade to one's back that work... but they work so poorly. none of them offer a better overall experience then the normal "boring" way. they don't even come close...
the half opened scabbard idea isn't outside the box :\
it's very well inside the box, probably at the bottom of the box, along with all the other ideas that solve one problem but cause 30 more.
If the scabbard is fixed to your back, then you won't be able to pull it down and it'll still be near impossible.
If the scabbard is secured correctly, which it should be
I suppose it would be possible with something like a swordpack or strap instead of a saya, but then that's a risk since there's nothing between the blade and cutting anything they knock, and nothing protecting the blades either.
I was going to ask the same question. And what about when horseriding!??
Not possible Metatron, you lost my vote here....
I thought about attach it with a bendable strap like some kind of rubberband maybe
The moral of the story? Metatron can draw and sheath back the katana!
+Jaxir Raywhisper lol
+Metatron All I have to say about this should be incredibly obvious; If you want to draw a Longsword from a back-mounted position with your *right* hand, just position the hilt over your *left* shoulder. - You can't draw a long sword from your right hip with your right hand, _why would it be any different on your back_ ?(Sorry, but I decided that if you're going to post two videos on the subject, I'm going to post two replies on the subject -- Thus increasing the odds that you'll actually see one of them.....)
XR40 I actually posted three videos on the subject ;)
+Metatron ....Actually, since I continued watching your videos after posting, I _had_ noticed that. However, while I *did* want to make a point, I didn't really want to be a jerk about it..... Nice job on your "...Real Accurate Historical Presentation..." in regard to the Ninja, btw. About time someone started dealing with that mythology. I'd have pointed out that the inception of "Ninja" movies was a direct response to the popularity of the James Bond films of the 1960s (Bond also being a spy/assassin) - but that's just me.
+Jaxir Raywhisper 8 mins
One technique I've considered is to have the scabbard secured to a baldric above the shoulder blade, but either left loose or resting in a hook at the belt line. That way, the length of the scabbard would lift away from your back and allow you to draw the sword forward and down, giving you a few inches extra drawing length.
That wouldn't help with a two-handed sword, but for a katana or single-handed European blade around a yard long, it can make a difference. By reaching over your shoulder with your left hand and lifting the scabbard to near horizontal, you can even re-sheath. It's still awkward, but it's relatively practical.
Kinda like what Geralt of Rivia does in the Witcher 3 Wild Hunt.
I recall an article from a '90's issue of Black Belt magazine that discussed the Korean sword art of Gumdo (kumdo). The article disussed a particular way of carrying the sword horizontally across the back at the waist and the techniques of drawing and cutting from that style of carry. A quick look at RUclips hasn't produced any videos that display this method unfortunately.
Yeah I'm willing to guess that drawing from the back first started with the Conan the Barbarian movies as a way to show of Arnold's arms.
You hold it on the back part of your waist, but you still draw it like a katana or inverted
BoneZ Yeah that's the one. Do you know where I can find a video?
So basically a wakizashi...
Its called a gum do. Just look up gum do sword form
Great vid Metatron. I appreciate you taking the time to address the inaccuracy and correct it.
that's sort of what i thought... if the scabbard is loose it can be pulled or droped down so you can unsheath easily... i often play dungeons and dragons with my friends and despite the fact that it is high fantasy we try to keep it as legit as we can... i had this problem with a ranger who uses a greatsword as a secondary weapon and that means that he can't carry it over the shoulder unsheathed so with the player we figured out a way that could potentially solve the problem... the scabbar is tied to his back with 2 belts, one of them sustains the scabbard on the back and the other sustains it on the hip.
the point was that releasing the "back" belt (the belt buckle is on his chest for quick access) will make the scabbard drop all the way down to the hip leaving the grip of the sword at the reach of the right hand so it colud be unsheathed... and it was really loose so if needed the scabbard could just be pulled or repositioned to ease the unsheath... after the battle you could sheath the sword on the hip and then adjust the belt again... si it is unsheathed on the hip and carried around on the back
If you're talking about a two-handed greatsword (aka Montante/Zweihander) the problem with your solution is these swords are much too long to be drawn from the hip as they come up to chest height!
They're about the same size as poleaxes so were also typically used as PRIMARY weapons with a sidearm as backup. Matt Easton (Scholagladiatoria channel) has made a few videos about them that are worth checking out to get an idea of their size and how they were used.
A more suitable primary weapon for a ranger when outdoors is the longsword (aka hand-and-a-half or bastard sword) which could be either worn on and drawn from the hip or strapped to the back. Aragorn is probably the most well known example of a ranger equipped like this in fantasy fiction. We see him carrying his bow and quiver on his back in the second film (The Two Towers) as he pursues the orcs who have abducted Merry and Pippin. His longsword remains at his side but he also wears a long dagger on his other hip as a secondary sidearm which can be drawn more quickly if necessary.
Jon Snow's Longclaw from GoT is another example.
With a typical european sword, I think you need a special scabbard to draw it from the back. If the upper part of the scabbard had a cut that leaves a part of the blade's edge exposed, it would be possible to draw, as it would slide out on the side. But this would not really be historically accurate, I think.
+ScarecrowLP | Let's Plays mit der Vogelscheuche That's not really all that practical.
The top rim of the scabbard has a very important function and you don't really want to compromise that. Firstly, it creates a somewhat good seal against water, which a slit in the side of the scabbard would compromise.
Secondly, it usually has a tight fit, so the edge of the blade doesn't bounce around and get dull. A slit in the side would cause the sword to bounce around in the scabbard quite a lot, dulling the blade in the process.
naphackDT Well, that makes sense. But I never meant, it would be practical, just possible.
In fact, I think that the only swords you can draw this way practically have to be either really short and/or strongly curved.
+naphackDT Scabbards with a slit at the back existed historically for curved swords like shamshirs, because they could not be drawn otherwise due to the strong curvature of the blade. In this case a tight fit to the flat of the blade is enough to keep the sword secure in the scabbard, though usually with the help of languets.
As far as 5 foot video game swords- usually the sword just sits on the back with no scabbard but when jt does- if you slow down the foostage of the draw you can see that either the sword usually clips through the top part of the scabbard as if the scabbard were intangibld
I have actually seen someone carry and draw a longsword from the back a number of times. There was a local group of guys who periodically staged fights with medieval arms and armor near where I lived in California, and one of them made his own rig for holding his longsword. Basically, it was a custom partial sheath tied in two places, one loose loop low down the sheath tied in the middle of his back, and one loop around the mouth, which was secured with a slipknot at his shoulder.
When drawing, he would grip the cord holding the sheath up with his thumb, and draw the blade, pulling the knot loose as he went. The sheath would fall further down his back until it caught in the lower cord, and he had enough room to free the blade. Now, he couldn't easily resheath the blade, but then, generally if you're in a position where you are able to resheath your blade, you've got plenty of time to do so.
Note that this was with a longsword. I seriously doubt this could be done with even a claymore-length blade, much less a full zweihänder.
I suppose it would then depend on how the scabbard was fixed to your back in the first place.
During the Boshin and Bakumatsu wars Samurai carried swords on their back. They didn't need a quick draw or an instant resheathing, they'd be doing saber charges essentially when revolvers and muzzleloading rifles ran dry.
still looks pretty uncomfortable.. might as well wear it normally
+SnapJelly ikr
...its just on your back.
SnapJelly in the times they used it in i woud carry my sword in my hand or ob the side
SnapJelly Maybe you could cary it on the back when traveling on foot? It probably wont tire you out as much when you carry the sword on your back.
The problem with wearing it normally would be running. It always seemed really uncomfortable to me. It's probably like a phone in a loose pocket but 10x worse and heavier. On the back you probably can't even feel it.
Reaching behind your back with both hands to draw a sword? What a fantastic way to get stabbed in the chest before the fight even begins! I'm learning so much useful knowledge here.
I asked you to do this but you already posted it.
I'm going to start watching you as I do Lindybeige, Skallgrim and ThegnThrand, but I would continue to like to see topics they don't pick up on.
UnrealVoicebox Sure and thank you for watching ^^ I'll do my best :)
In fact, the idea of a sword in the back, if we consider a long sword, the sheath would be attached only at the top (closest to the shoulder) doing so, that when the swordsman unsheathe the sword the tip of the sheath would persist back and he would pull the sword forward. The sheath is not completely stuck in the back, it "ties" on the belt at only one point.
+Pirilampo Or if you must have to have it tied tightly,you could have a sheath that is open on one side(only the top part).
Geralt can do it better ;)!
Anyways jokes aside, cool video, as always.
DREXIAN ahahah ^_^ thank you for watching :D
+DREXIAN if you look at what geralt is doing he is pussing the down of the scabbard so he can draw the sword easier
Witcher 3 always bugs me when you draw silver or steel. Zoom in and you can see a good half of the sword clipping through the scabbard.
Even better is when you're sheathing your sword in a conversation or cutscene and can see him clip through the scabbard about halfway down the blade.
Caleb Farmer: as I comment on previous video about swords on back, Geralt in books use swords with unusual measures: the blade is 27,25 inches (69,215 cm) long, the whole sword is 40,5 inches (102,87 cm) and weights less than 40 ounces. Both swords have similar weights and sizes. This is measure of the one handed sword with longer grip and could be draw without problems (and ofc he use the method mentioned in this video, Its writed in the Season of storms novel). The game just uses normal longsword size of the swords (around 130 cm in real) which is in case of witcher wrong because witcher swords are special.
But the sword with similiar measures as witcher swords really exist: hemareviews.blogspot.cz/2013/09/16th-century-longswords.html (picture 22.)
Great presentation thanks. I don't think anybody naturally tends to carry a blade on their back, but I think people get inventive when they want to carry lots of blades. People have always been very clever.
What about scimitars? Wouldn't their curves nature make them easier to draw? I have a Sikh blade at home. I should try it.
+Richard Ashley
wow really? Pls make a video!
scimitars are my favorite weapons because of Runescape. For some reason..
+Richard Ashley i was thinking about this cuz they have have a very sharp curve. But depending on the scimitar, it could be too wide.
All in all, I think its less about the curve and more of the straight-line length and loose room in the scabbard.
+Ray Adnyana Scimitars are one of my favorites because they're really good at the slashy-slash
tyler harvey
Ah yesss. good good. slashy-slash makes good filet.
Ray Adnyana Slashy-slash makes everything better
I see some extra disadvantages here:
1. The normal advantage of having the sword strapped to your back is that it's out of your way when you're not using it, and that the scabbard is out of your way when you have your sword drawn. If the scabbard is free to slide, it'll slap around all over the place, even worse than one that has the draw end fixed to your hip.
2. Assuming you're wearing armour, it will expose your armpit as both a cutting and a stabbing target. When you're wearing your sword fixed to your hip, the cross-draw exposes the strongest parts of your side-armour, namely the outside and backside of the arm.
3. Options: With it attached to your hip it is possible to draw with the same-side hand if your other arm is wounded. It works easily with overhand, but it's not that hard to do underhand wrist twisted inwards over the handle, and it's harder but doable underhand wrist twisted outwards. All the same options you get with a reverse-hip mounted pistol. Plus underarm and backwards, which lets you do it at point blank, if your scabbard isn't a two-point fixed one. (or the sword any long at all) That one won't work if your back is up against something though.
4. Back-draw is difficult or maybe even impossible when your back is up against something.
5. If someone's too close to your face, the minimum forward distance to perform a back-draw is basically the length of the sword. With cross-draw the sword is already between you and your enemy. With hip fix and same-side draw, you can always perform a back-draw, and once your sword is fully unsheathed it basically has its point against the torso of the other person.
junoguten Yes it's still better to have it on the hips definitely, but in case of a warrior having to climb something for example it could potentially make sense, considering you can still unsheath it ^^
Metatron Yeah then it makes sense. Especially climbing downwards, I'd imagine I'd get tired of my scabbard getting hooked on everything.
I am no expert in Iaido (who can claim that?) but I have trained for some years in the art, though I prefer the old styles (Kobudo) of Kenjutsu. In my experience drawing for the back is too impractical and too slow compared to drawing from the hip. As you say, drawing from the hip gives you more options for the initial cut but also allows you to use the tsuka, if for some reason you cannot draw your sword entirely, you could defend at some extent using the tsuka and even hit with it. When you draw from the back you are open to all kind of attacks without any meanings of defense. Also, the position of the sword makes the cut very inefficient, that's why many cuts in japanese styles start from jodan kamae instead of going all the way from the back. Finally, pulling the saya away from the sword was no secret, you learn that in almost every kenjutsu school, it is called sayabiki. In few words, drawing from the back it's uncomfortable, slow, inefficient, the attack can be predicted easily and leaves you with many openings, that's why you will always prefer drawing from the hip, although it was common that Samurai carry their sword hanging from the back with the sageo cord when they needed to have both hands free, like when climbing. Nice try but not enough.
Charley Davidson I actually agree with you I also prefer always to draw the sword from the hip ^^ I have recently made a video talking about kobudo as opposed to more modern styles ^^
It's a bit superficial as a video so for you it might have many infos you already know but still it could be entertaining to watch perfaps ^^
Talk to you soon in the comments mate
Metatron That's great, usually when people talks about japanese sword styles they forget about the old schools, I'm checking that video asap.
If I can suggest a theme I would like to see a video about the similarities between Japanese Kenjutsu and HEMA (specially talking about longswords, which is the center of many Kenjutsu styles). Usually people make the (pointless) question about what style is better but very few speak about the similarities. For me is a very interesting theme because what worked in Japan also worked in Europe and those shared stances, cuts, guards, etc. are tried and tested around the wold and in my point of view you could say that those are the very essence of sword fights.
Charley Davidson Fantastic idea I will take it into consideration ^^
It is great that your friend showed you a new way and that you went and did your own research. Well done.
Raffaello-Iemoto the one and only Bathrobe Samurai!
First of all these video's have been very nice and informal.
Since you seem to be interested in actually making the back draw a considerable option in combat i have thought of a few ways to improve the holster to make the back draw more efficient.
1) Wouldn't it be possible to make a custom holster witch is basically cut open on the top on one side of the blade. this will allow the sword to slide out of the holster even when the point of the blade hasn't fully reached the top of the holster.
2) Also would it be possible to create a slightly tilting holster witch will tilt over your shoulder.
3) Also when you increase the width of the holster (at the entrance) there should be more room for the tip to slip out of your holster.
But why would you want to make a back draw. Because it seems quite a strange way of drawing a sword and you won't have a lot of attack options.
1) First of all it might be useful in a diplomatic situation. Since when you have your sword on your back it seams like u will not be able to defend yourself. So the opposing party thinks you trust them more while actually you still have a drawable sword as backup.
2) Also this will allow a horse riding knight to carry a longer sword with him to draw when he loses his primary weapon this is a great advantage because he will still be able to deal more damage to the enemy at a bigger range regardless of the fact of still riding the horse or not.
3) When traveling you will look more vulnerable this can be a big strategical advantage when you either want to bait somebody to attack you or want to look like you are an "innocent" traveler.
If you are a swordmaster, could you throw your sword in the air and it will fall behind your back and into the scabbard?
Note, I am not a swordmaster. Never wielded a sword in life. Except a wooden one.
being good at cutting things wouldn't really help you with sword juggling or catching, lol
Take gunslingers for example. They can twirl their weapons with ease.
Chi Pa Pa Twirling a gun is pretty easy, in fact it's weighted in a way that kinda makes it naturally spin around your finger, plus it's safe if you just make sure the safety is on and there's no ammo loaded. Swords don't have a safety, and while it's easy to spin it around in your hand, throwing the sword up in the air and catching it by the blade is extremely dangerous.
Unless you are a swordmaster.
Now, I wouldn't particularly use a katana for drawing from the back. I can't remember the correct term for it, but wakazashi comes to mind. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I do believe that that's the shortsword variant of a katana. It's well within arm length for a draw.
Perhaps you had ought to try this with the scabbard actually secured. It hardly seems practical to have it on one's back if it can be pulled about a lot; surely there's a limit, less than the length of the arm, upon how much the scabbard can be pulled down.
It also looks to me as though the over-the-shoulder draw-cut would be remarkably weak and not very useful.
The only thing i have seen that looked theoretically possible for the two-hander is to us a hanger rather than a scabbard on the back. So it hooks on the top part of the cross guard and then covers the tip of the blade. Great video with excellent demonstrations of how to and technique. Thanks again Metatron.
Seofthwa My pleasure, and thank you very much for watching and commenting as always ^_^
I would like to Know how that works when its really strapped to your back.
+Matthew Crandall Ye I seriously need to get around that video, I will ^^
The two handed sheathing was so fucking hilarous. I love this channel.
but how do you pull on the scabbard if it tied to your back
One hand goes to grab the blade, the other hand goes behind the back to hold the scabbard as you can see in the beginning.
but even when the scabbard is tied down on the back? i have seen a lot of these videos and every time the sword is not tied and is in the left hand
Ohhhh, you meant when it _is_ tied down. My apologies. As of which... I don't know. I also don't know enough about swordsmanship to answer your question.
You slide the scabbard under your left arm when you pull.
You can just have a strap that goes around your body and is attached only at one point on the scabbard (the top). Say what you will about this guy, but ChosonNinja did a video showing this with the scabbard tied to him (if you want my opinion of him, I do not find him fully trustworthy but I do find some of his own ideas interesting and would like to improve on them). I can also see a two-point baldric if the lower attachment is actually flaps brought together and held via a magnet which can detach when pulled down.
They made scabbards with locking open portions on one side at the top where the hilt usually touches. It effectively makes the scabbard shorter for the purposes of drawing, but still mostly protecting the blade edge. The open portion was only about fist wide and about 1.5-2 times that in length so it's possible that gave room to draw up from the back and then backwards out of the scabbard. That might also allow for easier sheathing since the top of the scabbard would then act as a guide for the blade.
You should look into trying these and see if it makes much of a difference.
Those where still ment to be drawn from the side, it just have more maneuverability for draw cuts and confined battlefields
but how do you pull down the scabart when it is attached? did they have elasticbands?
+TheChillimouse You have a loop, but I suspect strongly that this wasn't done to carry the sword on the back but behind your shoulder. Than the sword is hanging nearly vertical, It doesn't bother you as much as it would if it be carried on your side and it is not tangeling around like it would be on your back. You would still draw it over your back. This is also to the peaceful carry method for a sword: handle upwards behind your shoulder.
+TheChillimouse Thats quite simple: it is not attached. Allthough the katana can be drawn over the back, it is not worn on the back. Tha katana is put through the obi (belt) and carried on your side, then befor drawing, it is twisted in the obi to the back with your offhand. This was done to hide/disguise your drawing and of course only makes sense if your opponent doesn't see you puting the sword behind your back.
Source: we have been training this a few times in ninjutsu
+TheChillimouse
You could make a thumb release.
+TheChillimouse the strap or rope that would have been used would have been loose enough to allow the scabbard to move enough to facilitate the draw while keeping it in place. Since that is not the way a samurai used a katana it could lend credibility that a ninja might have used a method like this. Though with the cruved blade and scabbard if could have been tight to the back if the curve was placed against the back allowing the curve to work with you rather than against you.
+TheChillimouse you dont pull it down- you push it up to reach it and its already low enough to draw the sword out
The way I learned to draw a katana you allways draw the saya, even when it is from your hip, with the same principle as you point out. You gain speed and you can draw in a shorter distance that way.
Also there is a technique to draw from the back (sort of) but where the katana start at the left hip, edge upwards (standard style). Take the saya in your left hand and put the handle behind your back making the sword go almost horizontal with handle right and blade left. Then you grab the handle with your right hand (palm upwards and elbow above the sword) and then extend your arm right a little bit to get your elbow in front of the sword. As you still holding the saya in your left hand this will initiate the actual draw. Then put your right hand over your right shoulder (the blad will be about half drawn) and then do a draw cut from above or diagonal from the right.
This might sound stupid, awkward and entangling and it surely is in the beginning. But after you have gain flexibility and added some foot work (yoko aruki) to it you can actually draw cut quite quick and that from an angle that is very uncommon with a katana. This is a technique to use when you have something or someone in front of you. Lets say you have a partner that are directly in front of and very close to you, attacking the opponent from the left or straight on then you can step to the right hiding you movement behind you partner and attacking the opponent from an unexpected angle without risking to cut your partner. Also work around pillars or trees and the like.
The first part of the movement, the motion where you put the sword behind your back, can also be used with a shoto/wakisashi for a reversed grip cut from the right side, opposite how a ordinary swordsman would move.
Okay now try that with the sheath actually strapped in place instead of just held in your hand.
Cameron Zackeresen I will :D
I'm not sure about the other games in the series, but in The Witcher 3: Wild Hunt, When sheathing and drawing one of your blades, there's a brief animation where Geralt's left hand does grab the appropriate scabbard to assist in the process. Just a little neat thing to notice that CD Projekt Red paid attention to
So it involves having the scabbard not being strapped hard to your back... You need to move the scabbard down, or rotate its strap around to achieve the movement needed.
Nice amendment then!
Cam raiD What if the top 8 inches of the scabbard could open on the edge side of the blade? These could be activated mechanically by the initial part of drawing the sword. Then you wouldn't need to occupy your other hand to draw. Also, if the doors stayed open, then you could use them as guides for re-sheathing.
Cam raiD Precisely ^^
stcredzero It would make sense, but was never historical. Still interesting food for thought :)
Cam raiD The Japanese have loose scabbards that they tuck into big sash/belt things. So it s possible with that get up. But it is still pretty rubbish leaving you completely exposed while you draw. As soon as you have finished climbing or whatever put it back in the proper position at your hip.
MrMonkeybat Yes, totally agree
While I have zero idea about how historical they are, I have seen a variant scabbard used for various swords that is an "incomplete" one with a clasp that banded around the top that could be opened when you wanted to draw the blade with the thumb, when it was closed, the sword would remain in position as with a complete scabbard, but about half the length (or more) of one side of the scabbard was open to allow an easy draw when the clasp was opened.
The release also allows a wider area for sheathing it that is closed tight when the clasp is closed.
Still looks really impractical. No. Just no.
Knechtor Yes I still prefer to put the sword at my hips, but maybe in some situation like climbing somewhere or going down a steep slope I could see the point of this, also because the sword can still be drawn. ^^
Metatron I have an answer for that (well for the katana) Actually as practionner of Japanese weapon (7 years of trainning and not self taught... Dojo style) to me the sword in the back is to be prohibited... it's better the slide the scabbard from the hips the the lower back, reason being: the sword is never removed... if you are climbing then I assume it's some stealth. Are you to pause your mission to have the time to place your sword from your back to your hips. and the problem Keeping the sword on your back: Iai masters
When you unsheath your sword from the back, you are wide open for attacks. it may only take half a second to unsheath. put for a Iaijutsu expert is enough time to go for the kill.
Keeping the sword unsheathed, is not an option either, as only little glow will reflect upon the blade and get you discovered.
Mr.Jordwell I totally agree with you, infact I always prefer the sword on my hips no matter what. The only thin that I found interesting is the idea that by pulling the scabbard it would actually be phisically possible to draw it. ^_^
So now when I see a game where it happens atleast I don't get mad and think that there is a fantasy reason for that choise of placement ^_^
Metatron First I have to apologize, I didn't meant it as a rant against the video, knowing you're position on the subject. It was more destined to people who would go: But Metatron what about the ninja.
Mr.Jordwell ahah I understand ^_^
I have spend a fair bit of time walking around with various objects carried on my back (hiking, fishing, hunting) and can say that having a weight like this, loose enough to enable the draw as you demonstrated, would be annoying as hell to walk around with for any length of time. Then, if you are going anywhere with bad weather, you are likely to be wearing some sort of cloak or similar protection. Will the sword go over or under? Will the hood interfere with the draw? Do you have to re-fit your shoulder harness every time you take this cloak off or put it on? And then there's the interference it will have with wearing a pack, I do not recommend traveling with an iron bar being smashed into your back by the weight of a pack, it sounds like a great way to get awful sores. Then after your journey gets uncomfortable, you try to sit down and realize that the blade prevents you, so you decide to carry the damn thing in your hand for the rest of the journey.
Oh, and ceilings, so good luck when you bow to your enemy in order to get your weapon out, or worse, chop into an overhead beam.
Ultimately, this boils down to: you might be able to accomplish an over the shoulder draw, but why bother when a hip is so much easier, more comfortable, more versatile, and is attached to a belt which you are likely to be wearing anyway? Can anyone provide a good reason that this would be preferable over a hip draw instead of just proving that it CAN be done?
+seniven Well, you wouldn't use it indoors really... unless you have an extremely high roof... or you are sitting down.
The shoulder draw, if you can preform the downward slash whilst doing it, is an extremely strong powerful blow. This downward slash is usually aimed towards the head or neck, which causes your opponent to step back or to flinch or move back. You could also preform an altered overhand slash angled more from the side instead of straight downwards.
A main advantage I can see though is that, after the downwards strike from the draw, you are set up for a quick horizontal/diagonal follow up strike/parry as you usually have your arm somewhat diagonally crossed in-front of your body, which is a more natural and stronger position to swing the sword (think baseball bat strike comfort) rather then having to do an inward strike after following the more common slashing strike from a hip-draw. (the arm, after the hip draw, is usually more towards the outside of your body for the second strike, which causes you to lose speed and power)
You also get the advantage of drawing it instantly in front of you in the upright position, whereas the hip-draw you have to move your wrist to get the sword pointing in the same direction. Though it depends on how fast you are compared to your opponent.
Again, this is more aimed towards a shorter sword (think Gladius size) rather then the larger sizes which you cannot preform the downwards draw strike effectively.
Now, for the carrying it in inclement weather, you'd generally want it under your cloak (you want to protect it from the weather). The hood wouldn't be an issue as you wouldn't want it up in a fight (it would drop in your eyes with you moving), you just have to be sure that the guard would clear the cloth when you took it down. You wouldn't fight with a pack on so you wouldn't have the sword on with it, or if you do, you'd have the pack on tight enough where it'd keep the sword pressed to your back, not banging around. If you got into a fight and needed it, just you taking off the pack would let the sword go back to it's drawing-looseness.
Ideally, you'd have a rig for the shoulder strap to stay tighter to your body for carrying it, and something that is a quick release that would drop down to the drawing position/looseness .
Sorry for the long-windedness of this reply, kinda kept thinking of more and more to write as I went on.
Hopefully this gave you some ideas on how it could, potentially, be a good reason to use this type of draw.
first 15 seconds should be in a cringe video
+Chef Excellence i agree lol
I think it's more funny than cringy.
Zzzeah!! *ninja pose*
you should be in a cringe video
Anduril is the exact sword example I was looking for.
your gonna hurt yourself :(
Michael Marchese ahah no I use a iaito, so the blade is dull ^_^ I would never perform a technique on a sharp sword without having practiced for months and months ;) but thank you for the concern ^^
oh ok. good to know because i cringed everytime you did that. Keep up the amazing work!
Michael Marchese I will thank you :D
The problem with this is that if your scabbard is loose enough to be pulled that far, you might as well not have it as it's just going to flap around and flog you. On the up side, an army wouldn't need to stop to administer discipline.
Edit: That is not a fucking *zweihander*. That's Aragorn's long sword. A "zweihander" is a type of great sword, or, to put it in a way that everyone can understand - if you're 5'5'', and it isn't considerably taller than you, it's not a zweihander
The Crimson Fucker Zweihander literally translates to "two hander" long swords are generally used with two hands as aragorn even did in the movie, making it technically a two handed sword. I personally prefer using "zweihander" to describe the massive german greatsword but he's technically not wrong
***** Zweihander, while it means that, is used in reference to greatswords - which longswords are not.
So, when you say "Zweihander" you're going to be understood as saying "Greatsword", not "technically any two handed sword", conventions of language exist for a reason - we speak the tongue that everyone can understand, not the one we find more pleasing.
The Crimson Fucker Thats what it has been used to reference but that doesnt make someone wrong for using it according to its literal meaning. Someone isnt wrong for thinking its the "common" meaning but the person using its literal meaning isnt wrong either
***** Except that he is. Always use commonly understood terminology(unless it's erroneous, in which case using the proper terminology, even if not commonly understood, is better).
A Zweihander is a greatsword, and it's not a greatsword unless it's upward of 5'6(usually around 6 feet or 180 centimeters, actually). End of this bard's tale.
The Crimson Fucker 1.) Who concluded these rules?
2.) There are no official measurements to something being a greatsword, same can be said about most sword types and terminologies, you pulling these measurements out of nowhere
3.) "Zweihander" was a term that originally referred to hand and half swords which then progressed onto mainly reference greatswords, its just preference. Same thing with "claymore" which means large sword but is very much references the basket hilted sword used in later periods.
You're inability to not be right, is kind of annoying
Thanks for making both this video and also the previous one. Having seen so many games and films portraying long swords of various kinds carried on the back, I found it quite enlightening to see both this video and the previous one. Thanks for doing this research and also making the live demonstration of how it would look when actually done with swords. :-)
There is a back draw but is only done in certain circumstances as it's not the quickest draw. The sword should start of in the belt as normal and is pushed around and dropped so no pull on the scabbard is necessary when drawn. This would normally be done when crossing behind something so your opponent can't see the movement as when the sword cuts (as it did for you with your draw) it cuts from the right shoulder which is the opposite side to a normal draw cut (which means two people can attack one at the range time and safely draw together. (I hope this makes sense)
Metatron is looking more epic as each video goes by! I expect he soon wont begin videos, but only step out of the darkness to answer your personal weaponistic quandaries the moment before you think to ask them.
+Nicolas Cato Strode ahahah nice one pal ;)
Metatron I've subscribed and am going through you vids now. Thanks very much for your contributions, noble one!
Also thanks for making this video!!
it does seem like this practice would be employed in very specialized circumstances despite the loss of defensive utility. I am happy to see that you mention the offensive techniques implied in the paragraph below.
I would be interested to see what sort fastening hardware one would use to affix the scabbard to ones back.
I would like to add another, potentially, very important reason that a swordsman/fencer would draw ones sword from the opposite hip and that is that it makes more sense defensively and offensively (offensive utility mentioned in the video including the repost in prime 😊 . I won't comment in-depth but i think it would suffice to mention that the first guard one achieves when drawing from this position is Prime meaning 1 and is a guard/parry/reposte that will protect ones entire inside line from incoming cuts and thrusts. Drawing ones sword from the back would provide ones assailant with a huge opportunity/tempo to strike directly to the "Vita," the body, additionally the head, making the practice just a bad idea. This applies despite the method above. I'm not an expert on the Eastern Arts but I believe some research into the techniques of Iaido would shed some light upon this. (as you also mention 😊)
Once again thank you, and Kind regards,
LancetFencing.
P.S. I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on the practicality of gripping ones sword with the pommel up and point down as seen in so many anime and theatrical presentations.
Very, very, impressive. I'm talking about your honesty and humbleness. You have so many lessons to teach, and minds to reach.
I suspect it would also be possible with a small modification to the top of the scabbard.
Imagine the scabbard like a box: normally, it is closed on 5 sides and open on the top. If you opened one of the sides, you could pull an object out without drawing it directly upward. Opening a scabbard all the way on one side won't work, because the sword would just fall out - but what if you only opened it part way? i.e. if the sword is 2' long, make the scabbard open on one edge from the top to a point 1' below the top. This would effectively reduce the distance required to draw the sword by 1', because you could pull it sideways/rotate the sword to release it after the first 1' of vertical draw.
True, I doubt there are any historical examples of this, but I'm putting it here to suggest that it may be possible to accomplish this without moving the scabbard, even with the largest weapons.
One error often made is the need for a "fast draw" like a movie gunfighter with his tied down holster. If you are walking or even riding it can be more comfortable to carry a Claymore or other great swords on your back. a lands knight had a shorter sword on his hip. The great swords were drawn mainly in battle when you could usually see the enemy coming from over 100 yards away.
I had a similar thought about the behind-the-back draw - that you could use your off hand to tug the scabbard down to clear the blade. but there's a problem with this whole idea.
All of your demonstrations were done with the scabbard held behind the back with your left hand. In reality, I can't see a swordsman walking around holding the weapon behind his back with his off hand. A bit silly, don't you think?
I'm going to assume that wearing or carrying the sword behind your back would use some kind of strap or baldric mount, which would be easy enough to make. But you would want such a strap to hold the blade close to your body and steady, rather than letting it swing and flop around while you walk, run, or ride a horse. If it holds your sword high enough that you can grasp the hilt over your shoulder, then any secure mounting would not be easily and quickly pulled down with the off hand.
If you can show some way to actually WEAR the sword and demonstrate the over-the-shoulder draw, I'd be quite interested. Until then, except for short blades, I'd say the over-the-shoulder draw remains in the realm of fantasy.
Actually, in my style of iaido, since we fight with the sword in the saya most of the time - a bit like staff fighting - we have a technique derived from staff fighting, where the saya is brought around to the back after a blunt strike, and the sword is unsheathed in a more powerful slash. we never keep a sword on the back though, and rarely even in the belt because of the nature of the style. I am absolutely certain that a katana of any kind was never sheathed on the back. (except maybe a dai-katana for carrying :) )
Just for information: One that has true Katana skill would never strap a Katana on the back. Besides the possibility of injury to the person drawing the Katana, the Katana itself would very likely be damaged sooner or later. A Katana can be purchased from one's local Asian goods store at one's local shopping mall for a few bucks. But, practical use swords are going to start at about the $300.00 range. A more finely made Katana can be purchased for $1000.00 to $3000.00. A Katana made in Japan will start at about the $6000.00 price range. The way a Katana is made can be deceiving as, from looks alone, one might not be able to 'see' a difference in a $300.00 Katana and a $6000.00 Katana. By Japanese standards a $6000.00 Katana is 'acceptable'. At the $20,000.00 to $50,000.00 price range the Katana is 'good'. At the $70,000.00 to $100,000.00 price range the Katana is 'great'. This is due to a number of things including the number of laminations that were put into the blade (I'm not talking about folds as they are something different). So, keeping the Katana from being damaged is paramount when drawing and returning the blade to the Saya. When the Katana is returned to the Saya (scabbard) one does not look at the Saya opening. So, performing noto when the Saya is on one's back is not a visual problem, but you can't hold the Saya properly to perform noto with it on your back. With the Katana strapped to your back there is only one real way to draw the blade - the way shown here. But, drawing the blade is an art - Iaido. There are four basic and distinct ways to draw a Katana: horizontal draw with a diagonal cut, horizontal draw with a horizontal (side) cut, vertical draw with overhead cut or rear stab, reverse grip vertical draw. These draw/cuts could never be performed with a Katana strapped to ones back. How can you tell someone that has no real Katana skill? Watch their left hand when noto is performed and watch to see if they use their fingers to guide the blade. If yes - no skill; that would be laughed at in a dojo.
Not a sub, and this video is old, but I like to point out when people are good.
You bring up why you are wrong in your own video, which is awesome. People don't like to do that, so good on you. I am now a sub.
Finally drawing longer swords from the back has been made possible by pulling the scabbard down. Hope they will apply this new drawing move to Witcher 3 with the next patch :)
and there is an other way.
The scabbard does not have to be strapped to your back along the entire length. It can be tied only at the top so if you pull out the sword, the scabbard will angle from your back. So you pull the sword not up, but forward.
Maybe it would work even for the bigger swords.
sweat drops: when drawing from the back you don't need to put the sword back into its sheath with the sheath on your back, if you win the fight. since wining most often means you killed those acousting you, you can simply remove the bandaleere holding that is attached to the sword and sheath the blade. then put the sword back on your back as you are walking away.
Then when you stop for the night you sharpen and oil the blade so it is sharp and will not rust do to exposure when your attacked again.
I have used this technique to draw a long sword off my back for years. However, with regard to replacing the sword - and drawing it - a lot of your problem with European swords specifically is that you don't have a good sheath. You have a decorative sheath that is mostly useful for storing and protecting your blade from the weather.
A good combat sheath should have a leather flap at the stop, and when you push the sheath up to the top of your shoulder with your left hand, the leather flap falls down over your right shoulder. You then place the point of the sword on the leather strap, and slide it up the leather to guide it to the opening of the sheath.
Furthermore, a good combat sheath should be made of hardened leather, not plastic or metal, and should be shaped kind of like a funnel. The top of the sheath is supposed to be very wide and loose, so it's easy to get the tip of your sword into the wide hole at the top of the sheath, then as you move the sword further into the sheath, it narrows down at the bottom to hold the sword more secure. The sword is held in place from the tip of the sheath, so that when your sword is fully sheathed, the hilt should almost not need to touch the sheath at all to hold the sword firmly in place.
This also helps your draw length, because by the time you get the sword to the edge of the sheath, you have a lot of wiggle room. The sword no longer needs to come out of the sheath straight to unsheath it. You can finish removing the sword at a 15-30 degree angle from the sheath, greatly increasing the length of sword that you can draw over your back, the ease and variety of draw positions, and the ease of replacing the blade.
You would still need a construction of belts around your body so the sword and scabbard stay in place while you're not using it, but you could still move the scabbard a lot.
put the scabbard between your shoulder blades with top level with the base off your neck and draw the katana , make sure the curve of the blade is inline with arch of the draw and the sword should slide right out, mine does any way, you cant put it back but thats the point when your carrying a weapon on the back and out of the way of other tasks like scaling a wall, its still there however when things hit the fan.
I’ve considered making a custom sheath for the back where one side of the sheath, there is an opening, enough for the sword to fit through, with little studs every 9 in. so the sword cannot slip out, and as you grip the sword handle, you click a small button that pulls the studs away and you can draw your sword from the side, therefore you can where it on your back :)
Hey Metatron. I've seen you doing it a lot of times: Never put your fingers on the Katana itself when you put it back into the Saya. Rest the back of the blade on the muscle between your thumb and your index finger of your left hand and draw the Katana forward. Just let the tip fall into the opening (koiguchi). That's much safer and looks more professional! Other than that, thanks for your video!
Try putting your thumb on the flat of the 2 handed sword blade and using that as a guide. Since it's straight it will go right in. Also, try actually fitting the scabbard to a sash or bandolier or belt to see if it's possible when the sheath is attached. I tried it at home with a saber and found it rather hard to do. Maybe you'll have better luck.
I'm not sure how you carry a zweihänder on your hip. It seems to me that one might carry a sword on their back, but loosely without the expectation that one would draw it quickly. The alternative I would guess is to carry the sword over the shoulder by the scabbard with the hilt up (due to the hilt being heavier?). I don't see an efficient way to draw a long sword (not "longsword") while wearing it.
There's name for this behind the back draw that comes from the use of the Shinobi-gatana. Kage no Itto.
So what you could have for the strap is a something similar a carabiner and a loop on the sheath. Obviously, a modified carabiner that would allow a faster unhooking with a locking mechanism your finger could flip. This would allow a the scabbard to be quickly detached and reattached to the strap. Just an idea.
Seems reasonable, but it's still at least 1-2 more steps than just having it at your hip
I'm just saying right now. mega respects for you on camera just admitting and correcting when you are wrong without anyone telling you so. it really takes a lot for anyone to ever do that. mostly on youtube when you big, i luv it man ! once again major respects and thats an awesome pride man !!! been subbed since that video of the sword unsheathing from the back by the way ! so kinda new
Aren't you forgetting the fact that the scabbard would be tightly strapped to the back? Hence controlling it with the left hand wouldn't work as is being shown here. I'd stand by your previous video.
There is no perfect solution, but I will give you options. My avocation is working/restoring knives/swords/hatchets/machetes and dealing with the problems of sheaths and carry systems. For the modern foot soldier/hiker/civilian, the behind the back/over the pack solution is probably optimal. And, you want it secured for reasons of consistency and quietness. Unfortunately, one size does not fit all. So, you end up with a series of adjustable straps. Moreover, if you are a belt and suspenders type guy, you anticipate that you will fall and don't want the sword to come out. I can modify the crummy leather/synthetic material sheaths that sometimes accompany a sword/machete. However, the results are not aesthetically pleasing. In the field, leather is a poor choice for sheathing material. You would have to have multiple attachment points on a wood sheath, meaning custom work. When you see the draw from behind the basic, think of human ergonomics. You do a windup. You don't fall into the movement. Like in martial arts/tango/dance, you do a wind up so you control the movement and don't just fall into it.
I had a LARP-sword (Elbensäbel) much like a katana and often I used it a different way. The blade was along my arm (the sharp part outside). This sword was shorter than my arm (The blade goes up to the middle of my upper arm.
I carried this sword on the back. But the hilt was down under the arm in which I fought. So in drawing the sword, it was already in fight position.
The only problem I know is, that the sword has to be fixed in a scabbard. But that would be rather easy to handle.
I can think of an easy way to do it with the scabbard secured, but you wouldn't be able to use a standard scabbard. You would have a scabbard that only fully encloses the blade part of the way (at the bottom) and then runs up the side of the blade that is against your body to protect the wearer and would essentially have "hooks" at the top to ensure the sword is unable to fall out and would also act as a guide to sheath it. If you would like, I could draw it up... I think it would look pretty badass honestly
It's an actual thing, with a bit of scrolling on google images you should be able to find it. i believe when i looked it up i searched for half back scaberd
It's an actual thing, with a bit of scrolling on google images you should be able to find it. i believe when i looked it up i searched for half back scaberd
It's an actual thing, with a bit of scrolling on google images you should be able to find it. i believe when i looked it up i searched for half back scaberd
if the scabbard was able to move freely at the bottom (only fixed towards the top) then you would be able to ark it over your shoulder more, thus being able to draw your sword.
If the scabbard was detachable at the top to the shoulder strap, you then just detach at the top as you pull downward, and then continue to unsheathe. Then resheathe in front of you and reclip it to the back.
What about holding the scabbard with the blade pointing to the left, so the katana curves to the right. Then draw the sword to the side. The curve will help shorten the drawing distance.
I deeply encourage the OP of this video to actually train in Iaido at a dojo.
I happy that there is way to draw from back . . . but then I asked question from my self . . .
Where would I want the "scabbard" (?) be? At your back or side?
and you could make the scabbard lose enougth for you to lif the weapon up befor drawing to make the motion ^_^ but then it would be swingin around your back when you move :D
I'm not an expert too (in Iaido) but from what I learned, even with the classical side draw-cut, you HAVE to pull your scabbard while drawing your sword. Basically.
My observation is that the sward is not attached to your body. That might influence the motion.
I get what you say bout the length of the arm for drawing from the back, however I would question that scabbards and sheathes on the back are attached to a chest strap, roughly at the shoulder blade, seeing as most scabbards are attached at the shoulder blade when/ if even wielded on the back (though definitely in video games and movies), this would allow the scabbard to move slightly as the draw occurs, allowing the sword to be tilted over the shoulder when drawn granting a slightly larger range of motion... I only say this cause I am a massive lover of fantasy and sword fighting type games to see and remember this alot
Thing is when a sword is on your back, it's most likely strapped on to you which means you won't be grabbing it with another hand, and you also won't be able to move it down like he does in this video.
The problem I've with this one is that if you need to draw because a guy want to attack you, you completly expose you shoulders and all we need to do is charge you with a sword and you'll not be able to do anything. I know that you prefer drawing form the hip, but yes this is working, but you would probably died before you've even draw it if your opponent is realy close.
When you draw from the hip you can attack at the same time or parry. From the back I don't find a way to do it properly and as I said early you expose a hugh hole into your armor, for an experimented sword man it would be easy to aim that weakspot and if he arrive to contact realy fast you'll he can block your armed arm with his shoulder while stabbing you in the weakspot under your shoulder, and catch your other arm with his free hand so you can't even try to take an other weapon to defend yourself or to hit him with your fist. So yes for me it worked, but will it against a real opponent?
Bit off-topic, but one more way of dagger-attachement I don't see a lot: if you have a dagger or a knife, a good way to attach it is with an elastic/bendable scabbard across the belly, handle diagonally down and towards your draw-hand. You'd wanna have a piece of cloth or something hanging over it covering it from sight (like the bottom of your shirt), but not from being reached by your hand. The golden rule here is that say you're pinned to the ground or back against a wall, when the back of the dagger/bottom of your hand touches the ground, the point is by that time A out of the scabbard, and B out of the squeeze between you and tip pointed towards your enemy's side. Don't worry, unless you're anorexic or your opponent is Andre the Giant, such a blade will still be long enough to reach his goodies through his ribcage.
Basically this is the stab that it's really freaking hard to stop someone from doing almost nomatter how well you got them pinned to the ground, and no one else can really see what's going on between the two of you. Heck, you can make them think he attacked you with the dagger and just lost. Alternatively you can bump into someone, grab a hold of their wrist and force the appearance of a struggle before doing it.
Thought this would be a cool kind of move for a video game or something.
junoguten That would be a cool idea ^_^
Metatron Thanks :) I'm working on learning 3D animation and programming for anime/video games/mods, but I'm nowhere near the skill yet. I imagine once I am though, I'll be happy for hanging around these parts of youtube.
Can't wait to get some proper swordfighting into those mediums, considering what most people think it looks like :-P
junoguten That would be fantastic, keep up the good work :D
You could use a modified sheath with two slits or holes on opposite side of the top and bottom, so you can draw it at an angle as opposed to straight out.
This video showed me that other people know the traditional way to sheath a Katana
A short curved sword (a cutlass, for example) and a scabbard with a flared "mouth" is the best option. The curvature will allow you to draw in more natural motion. It will permit to do a slashing draw with easy, even with a bit longer sword. A flared scabbard will make the sheathing easier since it funnels the point and guides the blade. Try it, and reply how it was.
that sound was really sensual we love you Metatron !!!!
darn, your phrase "this is the Metatron speaking" still reminds me of one episode of Supernatural.
+The Elder Troll V - Gandalf Or the movie "Dogma"...
You could, also, have it lower down.. and move the sheat higher up, to have it get in easier. And if the sheat is heavy(er than normal), you could also unsheat it a single hand, while the other hand is busy. I'd choose to have the weigth near the part that would be closer to the ground, and maybe some kind of an elastic so you can have the hole be at the same place, on your back, when you push the sheat up, a bit. That way, you'd only need to drop lower a few centemeters/inches, in order to have the entrance of the sheat be at the same place.
I would definetly have two swords on the back up, one normal sword, and a smaller one, eventually with an army knife on the back, a bit above the hips, as well as a inverted back sword with the entrance on the opposite side, which would also be my main hand (left, in my case). So the knife would be paralel to the ground and for the secondary hand, while the inverted back sword for the main hand, would have the entrance of the sheat down the bottom, as well as the handle, and the other end of the sheat up, so it won't wiggle so much, but still could use some kind of elastic or counter-weight, for easier pulling it out.
There are other things, like having the reversed-back-sword being smaller and with a smaller hand-guard, but it is possible to carry multiple weapons like that (say, for example, you have bought them and need to carry them, but also need to carry your groceries, which you can drop, in the case of a fight, in order to survive, but not unless you have to fight).
I don't have a sword and good enough camera to show what I mean, sadly. If you want to know more about "my vision", feel free to mesasge me.
+Sapioit I also tought of a different type of sheat, which would make use of either magnets or springs, to allow it to be opened and closed where the blade would be. That way, the unsheating would only imply to grip your hand on the handle and drag it down, possibly causing whoever is at your back to be cut by your sword.
+Sapioit Also, a sword on the back would be much, much easier to hide...
for me you need to have the sword tied with some elastic or long enough material for that to work
If the scabbard is strapped loosely enough to pull down, body movement and the wieght of the sword will slowly work it down to its lowest point. This means that when you try to draw the sword you can't reach the handle or pull the scabbard down any further until after you have adjusted it. If there is an immediate threat you are disarmed. Nor do you have time to waste on pulling a slip knot. If there is no immediate threat, rather than adjust it on your back your time would be better spent moving it to your waist from where it can be drawn more quickly as your hands are closer. Carrying a long sword on your back is deffinitely only for comfort during long periods in a safe environment.
But I think the point of your last video is largely correct. It would make a lot more sense to carry a shorter sword on your back because of the ease of drawing it. Putting it back is probably going to be difficult, but that's not critically important in a practical sense. The idea of carrying it on the back is mostly for ease of bringing it to a location. But then on some rare occasion, you might need to pull it out and use it. Then you can take whatever time you need to clean the blood off from it and to put it away.
it works only because you hold the case too. if the sword case was held there by a belt then when you tried to pull it downwards it would follow a circular pattern and you would get your sword stuck in its case due to friction
...I guess the biggest problem with having a sword on your back is that it's extremely uncomfortable. Always had a machete thing I had on the side straight across under the backpack - that worked. Easy to draw and put away, even if it stuck out on the other side - guess it could be something like that with a somewhat larger blade - that you'd put it loosely on the side of the shoulder, in a way that you could flip it down and pull it out crosswise. Or over the shoulder, if you wanted to, after you'd push up the scabbard to reach for the sword? Because fastening it so it wouldn't be smacking you on the head, and also be free enough to reach for, would be a neat trick.