Thanks for the video/info - saved the day for me. I had a spring conversion kit on order to replace worn out wet suspension (restoring a 1970 cooper). Managed to change order to red dot cones and hi lo’s just in time.
I upgraded to the full spring conversion and drove on it for roughly 9 months, it was comfortable on smooth roads, but whenever I hit the dips, it would bottom out. I readjusted it numerous times and even stiffened the adjustable shocks, it improved slightly but was still bottoming eventually damaging the wheel arches! I ended up going back to cones with Hi-Los!! This cleared up all my problems!
So glad I came across this video. I was considering springs to replace my aging cones but after weighing up the disadvantages discussed here I won't be fitting springs. Also, on the issue of springs, I find that modern springs (other than the originals) do not last very long. I think they are poorly made and covered in bright colours to make you think they are decent. I suspect most come from the far east and have no consideration as to what vehicle they are going onto. this is especially true of cheap coil overs
If you want a mini with coil-springs then buy one of those German after-market so called 'MINI'S' The rubber cones where fitted during most of the (real!) mini's production and is one of main deal of the experience of a real mini!
you wonder if someone is still watching? Hell yeah! this video is absolutely usefull and includes the whole perspective on suspension. Thanks for the awesome advice, like pretty much all your videos! keep it up
The first test cars had NO shocks, but they found the test drivers hit their heads on the roof. lol So shocks were fitted as an after thought but quality units are a big help. Some of the bouncy ride comes from the standard seats, so a seat up grade also helps.....
Interesting your comment about the crashing when you hit a bump. I find it exactly the opposite. On a rubber sprung Mini the smash through the car and my spine is awful. On the (metal) springs don't seem to suffer this anything like as badly. I would concur that a good setup is vital though. The softer versions of these springs to seem rather too soft though. I swapped to the medium springs after a few thousand miles and haven't looked back since. Having said that nothing can hold a candle to my Elf on Hydrolastic with competition bumpstops at the rear and adjustable dampers at the front. Best of both world there...
Thanks for the advices. For the next chat what do you think about "common soft tuning" on mini to get good "happy" mini without engine race specs? I mean a sort of short list to get the car a fast road usabe. What cam, carb, exhaust, head(compressiona ratio and valves size) to get 60hp on a 998cc and 85/90 on a 1275cc. Thanks bye
Wish you all the best with Shop Talk. It would be beneficial if you used visual aids like the whiteboard behind your couch and the actual spares used for the modifications.
Great info! I just watched a video about the spring conversion and it looked like such a good idea but the person didn’t go over the cons of the conversion.
Really like you channel! Could you give advice about how to repair/weld the part that always rots on mini's the part below the pedals where the bottom plate goes over to the vertical plate or bulkhead? (sorry don't know the English words)
So I want to upgrade my minis suspension I am a "spirited" driver. I would like to daily it during the summer. I dont mind the work, I will be running it with Yokohama semi slicks and 8" brakes on the front. I am also thinking about a turbo as I am addicted to speed. I would also like a 5 speed. Any advice would be great 👍
Cool vid and I feel that the rubber cones are part of the mini experience. Like you say if you have quality dampers (I use GAZ adjustable) and a good all round set then it makes all the difference hey
@@Stevestonmotorco I was recommended the GAZ by my local Mini man, I also have original hi-lo's, mini sport Red poly-bushes front and back, fixed neg-camber arms and rear brackets and the mini-Spares HD tie rods with their own soft rubber Bush on the inside and a mauve poly Bush on the outside, as they say this combo has been proven over many years. You know the mini ride is guna be a bit bumpy, it is what it is, but I love my set up, you feel the road and exactly what the car is doing! And just out of interest... I have a 998 with a stage 1kit, twin box centre exit maniflow. What else would you recommend for power gains? Stage 3 head, cam, over boring etc? Have you done a video on a tuned 998? Not many people seem to do much for the little 998. Mine seems pretty solid and reliable, I've also done the clutch, water pump, alloy rad, silicon hoses which has helped no end, and tuned on a rolling road. Any thoughts /advice would be appreciated thank you 😊
@@andyfry1970 For tuning a 998 just take the original MK1 Cooper as a rough guidance. I would recommend a 260ish Cam, such as the Kent266, Evo001, or possibly a Swiftune SW5. Fit a ported 12G295 head with bigger valves and set the compression ratio to about 9.5 - 10:1. Combine that with a slightly lightened and balanced flywheel, 3.44 FD, twin HS2 carbs and a dizzy with moded curve. All set up properly, your 998 will more than cope with standard 1275 Minis.
@@adrianburghard6779 Hi Adrian, thanks for the info, I've certainly heard good things about the sw5 cam, I have a verto clutch, but I do know that Mini Spares do a lightened flywheel for the verto clutch, As regards to the 12g295 head, is that the 1275head? Which over here are getting thin on ground to find and would require me to pocket the block? I'm trying to get a flavour of what's best to do. I also like the sound of adding a supercharger from vmax scart racing. We'll see hey. Thanks again, much appreciated.
@@andyfry1970 The 12G295 is the head which was fitted to the original 998 coopers. It's a direct fit to your 998 block as long as you sort out the CR, though they are getting harder to find. The 1275 heads are the 12G940 and can still be sourced relatively cheap, but as you said you will need to pocket the block for it to fit. I'm using a ported 12G295 in combination with an Evo001 cam in my 1098 and it's just wonderful!
Do an episode on the wet system and it’s different displacers and whatnot that are available. It’s a better ride in my opinion that the rubber one. Excellent video by the way.
Will Crocker Nice! I have a 68 Mk2 Automatic 998 Mini. I’ve had it since I was 16, I’m 43 now, and would like to get back into the loop of all things Mini. It’s bad enough that the wet cars need different subframes, but the autos use a different front one again.
Tom Bryant My understanding is the it is rare for the actual displacers to go bad. The typical problem is that the hose / nipple coming off the displaced fails. The company I referenced does a “rehosing “ service on displacers. The rest of the system is fairly common hydraulic style parts. Fortunately mine is working . I have been debating on changing to the std dry mini setup, but I like the uniqueness (kinda like the Hornet itself).
Will Crocker I had a couple blow out on me right after I bought the car. It was all rotten, and when I hit a frost heave, I broke the rear subframe, the drivers side tube that connects the front and back displacers, and both displacers on the drivers side. Luckily nobody was hurt, and I only had to buy expensive parts to fix my car. I remember there being different coloured bands on the different types of displacers. The Cooper S cars used certain ones as well, but I cannot remember what was what 27 years ago.
Clear me out, I think I heard you mention a particular cone? made by? I'm in the process of changing mine, got the back done, front still in progress. I purchased factory cones from MiniSport
One question I have is if you can ride a Mini mit Vtec subframe and engine (e.g. B16) at the front and still use rubber cones there? Big thanks from Germany!
Hey Luca! There aren't many B-series kits we know of that allow keeping of the rubber cones. The engine is just so big. But there are good options for D-series! You can expect more info about this from us in the coming months, and in the meantime you can check out McGee's Custom Minis and their subframes that keep the mini suspension design.
@@Stevestonmotorco Ok, so what would you recommend for me as a summertime daily driver? D16 an keeping the rubber cones or B16/18 and switching to coil setup? Additionally, if you switch to coils at the front, you need to change the rear as well, right? Thank you for your answer in advance.
Hello. I'm new in your channel. How about Electric Minis, EV Conversions, and how to put a DC Motor in the gearbox. Please let us know, or talk about it in a new episode of Shop Talk. Thanks!
there is a show in Poland on "TVN Turbo" called "Klimek vs Duda" where two guys build cars from scratch and one of them built EV classic mini. just put "klimek duda" into youtube search
Advice please...(pleeease Jessica Rabbit) We are moving about 8 Mini blocks and transmission cases. The blocks have rust on them. Can these blocks be dipped or machined and brought back to useful life? (This Mini parts collection is moving to a new home. The videos won't be uploaded till the last days of the year). Thanks everyone!
Hey, have you seen our block de-rusting video? You may be able to tackle it yourself without machining. And then there are chemical baths that some companies can do for stripping rust.
Check out Hydragas and Hydrolastic Service Limited. The are on Facebook and here: www.hahsltd.co.uk they rehose displacers and sell units already rehosed.
Авто/Мото
Thanks for the video/info - saved the day for me. I had a spring conversion kit on order to replace worn out wet suspension (restoring a 1970 cooper). Managed to change order to red dot cones and hi lo’s just in time.
Considering replacement one carb to double. Maybe the next topic pros and cons...
You guys talk a lot of sense, rubber doughnuts every time for me! Cheers.. Graham
Pro trick : you can watch movies at flixzone. I've been using it for watching loads of movies during the lockdown.
@Immanuel Kaleb Yea, I have been watching on flixzone} for years myself :D
I upgraded to the full spring conversion and drove on it for roughly 9 months, it was comfortable on smooth roads, but whenever I hit the dips, it would bottom out. I readjusted it numerous times and even stiffened the adjustable shocks, it improved slightly but was still bottoming eventually damaging the wheel arches!
I ended up going back to cones with Hi-Los!! This cleared up all my problems!
What about progresive springs?
So glad I came across this video. I was considering springs to replace my aging cones but after weighing up the disadvantages discussed here I won't be fitting springs. Also, on the issue of springs, I find that modern springs (other than the originals) do not last very long. I think they are poorly made and covered in bright colours to make you think they are decent. I suspect most come from the far east and have no consideration as to what vehicle they are going onto. this is especially true of cheap coil overs
If you want a mini with coil-springs then buy one of those German after-market so called 'MINI'S'
The rubber cones where fitted during most of the (real!) mini's production and is one of main deal of the experience of a real mini!
You guys have all the knowledge.
you wonder if someone is still watching? Hell yeah! this video is absolutely usefull and includes the whole perspective on suspension. Thanks for the awesome advice, like pretty much all your videos! keep it up
The first test cars had NO shocks, but they found the test drivers hit their heads on the roof. lol So shocks were fitted as an after thought but quality units are a big help.
Some of the bouncy ride comes from the standard seats, so a seat up grade also helps.....
Really informative! I know the classic suspension upgrade you did for me is just awesome. Best cornering car I have been in.
Heck yeah, Peter, glad you're loving it
Thanks, this makes so much sense. I will be looking for red dots now.
Interesting your comment about the crashing when you hit a bump. I find it exactly the opposite. On a rubber sprung Mini the smash through the car and my spine is awful. On the (metal) springs don't seem to suffer this anything like as badly. I would concur that a good setup is vital though. The softer versions of these springs to seem rather too soft though. I swapped to the medium springs after a few thousand miles and haven't looked back since. Having said that nothing can hold a candle to my Elf on Hydrolastic with competition bumpstops at the rear and adjustable dampers at the front. Best of both world there...
Love your channel! Would love your perspective on importing a classic Mini.
Thanks for the advices. For the next chat what do you think about "common soft tuning" on mini to get good "happy" mini without engine race specs? I mean a sort of short list to get the car a fast road usabe. What cam, carb, exhaust, head(compressiona ratio and valves size) to get 60hp on a 998cc and 85/90 on a 1275cc. Thanks bye
If anyone is considering coil conversion, I don’t recommend it.
We don't recommend it either. Too many trade-offs.
like the new segment guys great info. thanks guys
Ant recommendations for a sway bar? I normally autox my r56. Took my classic out once and it had a lot of roll.
KAD makes a fine unit. The other blade types are great as well.
Speak about engine conversions pls
Wish I would have watched this before installing springs and shocks 😢
Would like to see a "Mini Sprint" convercion
Wish you all the best with Shop Talk. It would be beneficial if you used visual aids like the whiteboard behind your couch and the actual spares used for the modifications.
Disc brakes. This may be too general but 7.5 vs 8.4 in particular. I have read from well known experts that the 7.5 is the best braking system
Great info! I just watched a video about the spring conversion and it looked like such a good idea but the person didn’t go over the cons of the conversion.
Really like you channel! Could you give advice about how to repair/weld the part that always rots on mini's the part below the pedals where the bottom plate goes over to the vertical plate or bulkhead? (sorry don't know the English words)
How about a video comparing single and twin carbs? Performance, sound, fuel economy.
So I want to upgrade my minis suspension I am a "spirited" driver. I would like to daily it during the summer. I dont mind the work, I will be running it with Yokohama semi slicks and 8" brakes on the front. I am also thinking about a turbo as I am addicted to speed. I would also like a 5 speed. Any advice would be great 👍
To VTEC or not to VTEC? any recommendations
Cool vid and I feel that the rubber cones are part of the mini experience. Like you say if you have quality dampers (I use GAZ adjustable) and a good all round set then it makes all the difference hey
It sure does. Anyone who has tried cheap/worn out dampers and swapped in a quality set of dampers can attest to that I'm sure.
@@Stevestonmotorco I was recommended the GAZ by my local Mini man, I also have original hi-lo's, mini sport Red poly-bushes front and back, fixed neg-camber arms and rear brackets and the mini-Spares HD tie rods with their own soft rubber Bush on the inside and a mauve poly Bush on the outside, as they say this combo has been proven over many years. You know the mini ride is guna be a bit bumpy, it is what it is, but I love my set up, you feel the road and exactly what the car is doing! And just out of interest... I have a 998 with a stage 1kit, twin box centre exit maniflow. What else would you recommend for power gains? Stage 3 head, cam, over boring etc? Have you done a video on a tuned 998? Not many people seem to do much for the little 998. Mine seems pretty solid and reliable, I've also done the clutch, water pump, alloy rad, silicon hoses which has helped no end, and tuned on a rolling road. Any thoughts /advice would be appreciated thank you 😊
@@andyfry1970 For tuning a 998 just take the original MK1 Cooper as a rough guidance. I would recommend a 260ish Cam, such as the Kent266, Evo001, or possibly a Swiftune SW5. Fit a ported 12G295 head with bigger valves and set the compression ratio to about 9.5 - 10:1. Combine that with a slightly lightened and balanced flywheel, 3.44 FD, twin HS2 carbs and a dizzy with moded curve. All set up properly, your 998 will more than cope with standard 1275 Minis.
@@adrianburghard6779 Hi Adrian, thanks for the info, I've certainly heard good things about the sw5 cam, I have a verto clutch, but I do know that Mini Spares do a lightened flywheel for the verto clutch, As regards to the 12g295 head, is that the 1275head? Which over here are getting thin on ground to find and would require me to pocket the block? I'm trying to get a flavour of what's best to do. I also like the sound of adding a supercharger from vmax scart racing. We'll see hey. Thanks again, much appreciated.
@@andyfry1970 The 12G295 is the head which was fitted to the original 998 coopers. It's a direct fit to your 998 block as long as you sort out the CR, though they are getting harder to find. The 1275 heads are the 12G940 and can still be sourced relatively cheap, but as you said you will need to pocket the block for it to fit. I'm using a ported 12G295 in combination with an Evo001 cam in my 1098 and it's just wonderful!
Do an episode on the wet system and it’s different displacers and whatnot that are available. It’s a better ride in my opinion that the rubber one. Excellent video by the way.
I agree. I have hydrolastic on my Hornet and would like to hear about performance and options available.
Will Crocker Nice! I have a 68 Mk2 Automatic 998 Mini. I’ve had it since I was 16, I’m 43 now, and would like to get back into the loop of all things Mini. It’s bad enough that the wet cars need different subframes, but the autos use a different front one again.
Tom Bryant My understanding is the it is rare for the actual displacers to go bad. The typical problem is that the hose / nipple coming off the displaced fails. The company I referenced does a “rehosing “ service on displacers. The rest of the system is fairly common hydraulic style parts. Fortunately mine is working . I have been debating on changing to the std dry mini setup, but I like the uniqueness (kinda like the Hornet itself).
Will Crocker I had a couple blow out on me right after I bought the car. It was all rotten, and when I hit a frost heave, I broke the rear subframe, the drivers side tube that connects the front and back displacers, and both displacers on the drivers side. Luckily nobody was hurt, and I only had to buy expensive parts to fix my car. I remember there being different coloured bands on the different types of displacers. The Cooper S cars used certain ones as well, but I cannot remember what was what 27 years ago.
Tom Bryant must have been quite a bang.
What's the lifetime of a new rubber cone ?
Clear me out, I think I heard you mention a particular cone? made by?
I'm in the process of changing mine, got the back done, front still in progress. I purchased factory cones from MiniSport
We usually go with factory versions or the red spots from Mini Spares. Both good.
What suspension would you recommend for a lowered look?
You'll want to look into hi-lo ride height adjusters for use with the rubber cones.
One question I have is if you can ride a Mini mit Vtec subframe and engine (e.g. B16) at the front and still use rubber cones there?
Big thanks from Germany!
Hey Luca! There aren't many B-series kits we know of that allow keeping of the rubber cones. The engine is just so big. But there are good options for D-series! You can expect more info about this from us in the coming months, and in the meantime you can check out McGee's Custom Minis and their subframes that keep the mini suspension design.
@@Stevestonmotorco ok, thank you very much guys. Hope I can visit you in your shop sometime in the future.
@@Stevestonmotorco Ok, so what would you recommend for me as a summertime daily driver? D16 an keeping the rubber cones or B16/18 and switching to coil setup?
Additionally, if you switch to coils at the front, you need to change the rear as well, right?
Thank you for your answer in advance.
Hello. I'm new in your channel. How about Electric Minis, EV Conversions, and how to put a DC Motor in the gearbox. Please let us know, or talk about it in a new episode of Shop Talk. Thanks!
I'm saving up to do this to one of my minis. Check out evmini.ca/
Great suggestion
there is a show in Poland on "TVN Turbo" called "Klimek vs Duda" where two guys build cars from scratch and one of them built EV classic mini. just put "klimek duda" into youtube search
Advice please...(pleeease Jessica Rabbit) We are moving about 8 Mini blocks and transmission cases. The blocks have rust on them. Can these blocks be dipped or machined and brought back to useful life?
(This Mini parts collection is moving to a new home. The videos won't be uploaded till the last days of the year). Thanks everyone!
Hey, have you seen our block de-rusting video? You may be able to tackle it yourself without machining. And then there are chemical baths that some companies can do for stripping rust.
@@Stevestonmotorco Thank you, we did not. But we will search the videos for it. Thanks again!!!
Do you guys rebuild hydrolastic displacers?
Negative
Stevestonmotorco Crap. Are they still hard to get? Maybe I’ll just go dry and save all the wet parts.
Check out Hydragas and Hydrolastic Service Limited. The are on Facebook and here: www.hahsltd.co.uk they rehose displacers and sell units already rehosed.
Cold air intake systems ..
so bottom line. don't. and I agree totally :)