Excellent video as always guys. For those like me who like to know the 'correct' gaps they are: gap between bolt head and arm 0.020". Throw out nuts should be 1/8" WITHOUT pressing the clutch down, ie resting state (measuring the gap with a 1/8” drill bit).
The video suggests a total different setup. He says screw the bolt until the arm, then 1 flat back. 1 flat rotation on a 1/4" UNF screw is 0.15mm. ALL manuals says it should be 0.50 mm
I am just rebuilding my mini . The engine is back in and my next job is reconnecting all the brakes and clutch lines. This video is excellent and has helped massively! Thanks!
Brilliant video. You make the maintenance on these classics very easy. I've been struggling with my clutch for some time, to the point where I was even considering buying a new master cylinder. After watching this video, I got it sorted in under 5 minutes.
Bleeding the system works much better if you clamp the slave cylinder piston all the way in. Then bleed it. You should also set the throw out nuts before you apply any pressure to the arm. There are very good reasons for the factory settings not just nearly maybe almost.
Excellent video. I have a 1995 spi mini. With a verto. It currently will only go in gear when the engine is off, but will bump and drive in one gear. Does this sound like the the master cylinder or something else. Many thanks
The function of the throwout stop isn't to save the clutch cover! It's to stop you pushing the clutch so far that you cause the crank to grind against the thrust bearing. To adjust: Slacken the lock nut and wind the stop away from the casing. Hold the pedal down so the clutch disengages. Screw the stop in to touch the clutch housing. Release the pedal and screw the stop towards the cover by another flat (1/6th of a full turn). Lock in place with lock nut. The Verto just has a specified clearance at rest.
Cool video as always...but please tell us why instead of the standard pin going from arm lever into slave cylinder you have an adjustable screw....I know why, cause I did the same...this standard method is perfect according to car manual but not to reality...normally the push of pedal and slave are not enough to make clutch work properly and gears are hard to get in, specially first gear when car is completely stopped. Please explain also the "adjustable" pin, all mini community will be grateful. Ciao
Thanks! Great content as always! Would you condider doing a RHD LHD conversion video. I have been looking at doing this. Upcoming law will not alow me to keep the SPI JDM with RHD. Biggest issue is the brake actuating bar for the servo. However I saw you just deleted the servo for the Honda powered monster. That got me thinking, "This guys are not insane (entirely), if they built a speed demon and did away without the servo. Why souldn´t I do it..."
We don't like the boosted brakes anyway. If you swap over the brakes, clutch, pedal box, and steering column, all you're left with is the steering rack, dash, and wipers (off the top of my head).
Hi there, at 9.50 you say that with the stop nut in too far, the engagement is too close to the floor. Does that mean that the opposite is true? i.e. if the stop nut touches the lever you will have an engagement too high? I changed both cylinders today and installed your clutch line (great part btw). Everything was fine at first. After a drive on the motorway I noticed my engagement point went super high. I'm wondering if I missed a setting or if my clutch plate is simply wearing out.
Hi, thanks for your purchase and glad you like the clutch line! Yes, you're right. The closer the stop nut is to the lever, the higher the engagement point will be in clutch pedal stroke. You can back it in more than shown in the video so that's a little closer to the floor and tailor it to your foot position and preference. It will work as supposed to as long as the clutch can fully disengage for changing gears.
hello. I was thinking about ;putting a Honda B18 in a Classic Mini Van. I Need to have a Automatic Transmision. Could you suggeat a sutable transmissin ? I would like to put a turbo in ity and I am looking for about 350 to 370 horsepower. I need a transmission thatht will handle that. I also want 4 wheel disk brakes and coil overs. what is your opiniion?
Fantastic Video. Perfect timing too as I am trying to set my new clutch up right now after a restoration on my 79 mini. Keep up the great videos! @correia78 in Instagram
Excellent video as always guys. For those like me who like to know the 'correct' gaps they are: gap between bolt head and arm 0.020". Throw out nuts should be 1/8" WITHOUT pressing the clutch down, ie resting state (measuring the gap with a 1/8” drill bit).
Excellent, thanks for that
The video suggests a total different setup. He says screw the bolt until the arm, then 1 flat back. 1 flat rotation on a 1/4" UNF screw is 0.15mm. ALL manuals says it should be 0.50 mm
funny how they forgot the most important part!
Awesome guys, simple, no over complicated explanation.
Keep it up
I am just rebuilding my mini . The engine is back in and my next job is reconnecting all the brakes and clutch lines. This video is excellent and has helped massively! Thanks!
Brilliant video. You make the maintenance on these classics very easy. I've been struggling with my clutch for some time, to the point where I was even considering buying a new master cylinder. After watching this video, I got it sorted in under 5 minutes.
Nice! Great to hear 👍👌
Alignment! we need an alignment video with the "tools for mini" as follow up for the suspension video!!! Pleaseee!
Bleeding the system works much better if you clamp the slave cylinder piston all the way in. Then bleed it.
You should also set the throw out nuts before you apply any pressure to the arm. There are very good reasons for the factory settings not just nearly maybe almost.
Great videos lads.
Very well explained.
Perfect timing, I'm about to change my clutch slave this week :)
Excellent
Excellent video. I have a 1995 spi mini. With a verto. It currently will only go in gear when the engine is off, but will bump and drive in one gear. Does this sound like the the master cylinder or something else. Many thanks
The function of the throwout stop isn't to save the clutch cover!
It's to stop you pushing the clutch so far that you cause the crank to grind against the thrust bearing.
To adjust: Slacken the lock nut and wind the stop away from the casing. Hold the pedal down so the clutch disengages. Screw the stop in to touch the clutch housing. Release the pedal and screw the stop towards the cover by another flat (1/6th of a full turn). Lock in place with lock nut.
The Verto just has a specified clearance at rest.
Thanks for the infos 🙏
Would you guys consider making a RHD clutch line?
We actually developed only the LHD model because there are quite a few options for RHD. Maybe in the future we'll consider it though.
wish you'd done this about 2 months ago, it would of been handy when i had to change my slave cylinder :) - Good video - as always
thanks!
Cool video as always...but please tell us why instead of the standard pin going from arm lever into slave cylinder you have an adjustable screw....I know why, cause I did the same...this standard method is perfect according to car manual but not to reality...normally the push of pedal and slave are not enough to make clutch work properly and gears are hard to get in, specially first gear when car is completely stopped. Please explain also the "adjustable" pin, all mini community will be grateful. Ciao
Thanks for the video 😊
Brilliant, thanks for this video
You're very welcome!
Love the videos man !, keep it up
#watchingFromNewZealand
What if you have run out of adjustment on the bolt and lock nut?
Thanks! Great content as always! Would you condider doing a RHD LHD conversion video. I have been looking at doing this. Upcoming law will not alow me to keep the SPI JDM with RHD. Biggest issue is the brake actuating bar for the servo. However I saw you just deleted the servo for the Honda powered monster. That got me thinking, "This guys are not insane (entirely), if they built a speed demon and did away without the servo. Why souldn´t I do it..."
We don't like the boosted brakes anyway. If you swap over the brakes, clutch, pedal box, and steering column, all you're left with is the steering rack, dash, and wipers (off the top of my head).
can i bleed the clutch outside the engine bay? the slave cylinder bleeder its just impossible to get to
Hi there,
at 9.50 you say that with the stop nut in too far, the engagement is too close to the floor.
Does that mean that the opposite is true? i.e. if the stop nut touches the lever you will have an engagement too high?
I changed both cylinders today and installed your clutch line (great part btw).
Everything was fine at first. After a drive on the motorway I noticed my engagement point went super high.
I'm wondering if I missed a setting or if my clutch plate is simply wearing out.
Hi, thanks for your purchase and glad you like the clutch line!
Yes, you're right. The closer the stop nut is to the lever, the higher the engagement point will be in clutch pedal stroke. You can back it in more than shown in the video so that's a little closer to the floor and tailor it to your foot position and preference. It will work as supposed to as long as the clutch can fully disengage for changing gears.
i got verto clutch in my mini.now it is coupled with engine. gears are stuck. what would be the problem?
Where did you get or build the Carb Box (black)?
hello. I was thinking about ;putting a Honda B18 in a Classic Mini Van. I Need to have a Automatic Transmision. Could you suggeat a sutable transmissin ? I would like to put a turbo in ity and I am looking for about 350 to 370 horsepower. I need a transmission thatht will handle that. I also want 4 wheel disk brakes and coil overs. what is your opiniion?
What about the SMC clutch lines - do you make them RHD?
What oil is it for the clutch ?
//Fredrik
What were the ‘pre-verto’ called before the Verto was used I wonder?
Good question 😆
"The clutch"
Originally they had half a dozen coil springs on the back of the flywheel. That one will a rather clever diaphragm pressure plate.
Master cylinder cap removed and.... straight on the paint?
Informative video though. Thanks.
You're very welcome
BINGO! I wondered who else noticed that...... hilarious
Good video but please don’t put the cap on the bodywork!
Fantastic Video. Perfect timing too as I am trying to set my new clutch up right now after a restoration on my 79 mini. Keep up the great videos! @correia78 in Instagram
Thanks! Glad to help