On a trail bike; sorted suspension, very stiff cranks, aenomaly switchgrade. Didn't mention wheels because depending on your style of riding you shouldn't all be riding lightweight wheels 😂
I love Anna so much. Shes so adorable and must be protected at all costs 😭😭 combined with Owens ability to break things down in a way that isnt rude but rather uplifting - theyre my favorite gmbn duo!!!
As a great upgrade, I would suggest a good saddle! There is nothing worse than an uncomfortable ride. It could shorten a beautiful day if it hurts so much you cannot enjoy it! 😅
Completely agree with Anna on top spec suspension. I’d rather have a Deore level groupset and a Factory/Ultimate fork than a blingy drivetrain and budget fork.
First upgrades I recommend to people is getting all contact points sorted out. Just get the proper tires, saddle, pedals (maybe MTB shoes) and grips (possibly gloves) for your riding style. Then make the bike to fit you. There is no point in messing with other upgrades if you have trouble keeping your body on the bike or if it feels uncomfortable to ride.
I kept getting stem slip , changed to a DMR stem with oversized bolts for steerer tube, fills me with more confidence which has definatley helped me to push it a lot harder!
All this talk of relatively inexpensive upgrades has me thinking about this and that on my bike...until I remember it's just a $1500 hardtail that will be relegated to commuter duty. The money will be better spent getting a proper full sus trail bike AFTER I move across the pond to Portugal. Then, I can go wild with those upgrades!
Decent grips are a game changer. I bought some cheap Temu grips that were terrifying to use…. Finally invested in ergon and they revolutionised the feel!
PNW has been making stems for years. The Range Stem is usually paired with the Range Alloy bar. The new Loam Stem is meant to be paired with the Loam Carbon bar.
Lots of dropped posts are shipped with crap levers which really negatively affects the dropper performance. I upgraded mine to a ZTTO lever. Absolutely brilliant. 2nd upgrade. Tyre insert. Cushcore For Tubelesz and Tannus Armour for inner tubes. I don’t leave home without them.
changed the rear wheel after 8 years without wheel hub maintenance on an XC 120mm I went from 25kph max on flat to an easy 32kph that's 4.3mph just because of the new rear wheel hub (old was half rusted) Shimano WH-MT500 not expensive wheels which also have a wider jaw from my old 21 to new 24mm weirdly that simple change made me able to pedal without hands a bike that was very unstable before and I love it that wheel change was a huge upgrade I beat all my Strava times with it and after 1 ride bought the front wheel to have a matching jaw width pair (rocket ron tires 27.5x2.25)
FSA - is Full Speed AHead - They started as a windsurfing component company and I was lucky enough to be sponsored by them and my photo was on their first ever catalogue that was printed on A4 Paper - yes I am that old :)
If you can lock up your front, bigger brakes won’t make your bike stop any better (unless you’re getting fade from too much heat). Traction is the biggest limiting factor in braking distance, so better tires will help there more than a bigger rotor.
It's not that simple (IMHO), less powerful brakes take more rider finger effort, this means less control. So can actually mean that less powerful brakes are more likely to lock the wheel, more powerful brakes require less effort, and therefore offer more control at the extremes of tyre grip.
@@jonm7272 smaller rotors can provide better modulation. Lever pull effort on modern properly tuned hydraulic brakes is almost nonexistent. Tire traction is lower than the braking power of even the smallest rotors. Since modulation is better with smaller rotors, the smallest rotor/pad combination to manage heat gives you the best control. At 210 pounds plus gear, I’ve done full hard charging park days and hit Cannel Plunge fast and safe with 180 mm rotors. I guess the proof that heat management was the issue came when my first time on Cannell plunge I burned up my front brake to the point that it completely failed. Rotor change colors, and the fluid was so cooked that my mechanic said it was the worst he’d ever flushed. I did the same ride a year later, with the same size rotors using Shimano IceTech rotors and pads. Didn’t have a single breaking issue the entire day.
@@SprSonik13 "Lever pull effort on modern properly tuned hydraulic brakes is almost nonexistent"... I have Code RSC on a 200mm/180mm front/rear disk on one of my bikes, it has a lot of power. But my fingers are still bloody aching after a 20 minute descent off a 800m hillside, doing the same thing on 2-pot 180mm discs would leave me at the absolute limit of my fingers and they'd be aching so much I'd be trying to get two fingers onto my one finger levers, this is not a good situation for fine control. But what the hell do I know, I've only got 4 bikes, with different braking set-ups on all of them, and I only ride around 4000km a year (mainly cross country), so I'm probably wrong.
@@jonm7272 It's not only about finger ache. Stressing the index finger makes all other fingers loose fine control and it will somewhat "lock up" your elbow suspension. When I upgraded from hardtail to middle tier trail bike (hardtail was good, brakes were the only weak part of it), the brakes were the most noticeable surprise. I actually appreciated this change more than the fact it was a full-sus 😀. I was so frustrated I started to wonder "how do they keep control on steep DH?" After changing to bike with adequate brakes, I said "Ahh, now I get it..."
The single best upgrade for me is shorter cranks. It is the first upgrade I do on all my bikes. Nothing ruins the joy of riding like constant pedal strikes.
The best upgrade anyone can make is free. That is spending time tuning your bike, suspension and tyre pressure. You say high end suspension is worth the money and if you know how to tune it you’re probably right. But let’s face it 70% of riders don’t tune anything on their bike and for them high end suspension is a total waste of money.
The correct suspension setup is also important, you can have the top of the range components and if they aren't dialed in to your weight and riding style they're worthless.
I started mtb last year with scott spark 970, the lowest tier model but in that time it was perfect due to fact that i was starting my journey, after a year i did some upgrades. Started with brakes due to fact that stock ones(mt 201) disc broke twice and i put slx (4 pistons f&r). Next part was a fork stock judy silver started to lose air and due to fact that i improved my ride it wasn't fast enough with rebound etc so i got a fox 34 factory on disocunt(big game changer, after that it feels like a new bike), next important upgrade were tires, i put maxxis forekaster front and rekon rear. Though it will be all for this yearm, but rear shock has broken i did bit impossible thing i mean i got fox nude shock which is almost impossible to get and this part is as same gamechanger as fork, again i have to get used to new feeling of the bike. After winter i will got more comfy seat and pair of wheels.
Bearings... ROFL. Unless you upgrade your ball bearings to a roller bearings (potentially ~1% difference in efficiency) it's a full on marketing bullshit.
A derelict bike I picked up recently hadn't been ridden for 5 years and had old tires in good condition but with hardened compounds. The tires are probably OK in summer but may be slippery when wet...brand new tires are always amazing.
The last 2 Rockshox I purchased had practically no oil in them,and one pair didn't even have Crush washers on the Lowers.I now completely strip down any suspension components I get,before I go out riding..And from a Major Manufacturer like Rockshox is a Bloody joke...I hear I'm not the only one either...
i have a trek Roscoe 7 because i got it for FREE FROM A GUY in perfect condition or i NEVER thought of having one, needed a $20 shifter and upgraded $100 BUCKS COST.....i put on a royal Italian comfy seat and nicer grips and aluminum peddles and a riser on and use it as a CASUAL CRUSER ....HEY IT WAS FREE....! I have tons of trails and quiet safe tourist places to putts around for casual EXERCISE.....
Looks like things have chilled in a beautiful way man...second date and understanding each other soo much better. Just a big Sunday afternoon cuddle and man...what can I say Congratulations to both of you.
#quiz not me, pretending not to have seen all the comments saying full speed ahead. Answering the quiz with my own answer, full speed ahead, would love to see my name on screen next week 😉
I have found that single piston brakes are the best. For my money single piston brakes are easier to set up and maintain than dual piston brakes, so in the real world, over a year you get better braking for an equal amount of maintenance and faff.
It's about getting brakes capable of stopping you without over-stressing your finger too much. If you can do it with single piston brakes, good for you. But when you ride steep downhill terrain, one piston brakes start to get painful, your grip gets uncomfortable and you just can't manipulate the bike as you want to. It also tenses up your whole arms. You can't have loose arms and let your bike move underneath you if you have a starting rigor mortis in your index fingers.
#gmbntech I have an XT drive train my my 2022 transition patrol. When I pedal backwards in the easiest gears my chain wants to work it way down and jam. Is my cassette wearing out? I never let my chains go beyond wear point.
I think this can have something to do with the chain line. I have ridden bikes where this did not happen - and others where it did happen when the drivetrain was in new condition.
For the average rider they are not going to use the benefits of a top line suspension. If your an average joe or June save that money for rent or a nice vacation.
Serious question; does being taller reduce the effectiveness of a dropper post? I have had mtbs since the mid 90s. I rarely find my seat to be in the way. My latest 110 mm bike came with one and after a couple weeks I ripped it out for the weight savings. So am too tall to appreciate the benefits (75 inches/191 cm)? Too old... not gnarly enough?
The enormalycontructs seat adjuster is too expensive starting from £170. I can easily afford one and would like one. However, I'm not paying that price. I'd rather see it made accessible to more people. I don't want exclusive stuff, I already feel like a twat having a nice bike already. Riding around on a nice bike is horrible, I feel like a sitting target sometimes. I'd rather see them sold cheaper so they sell more and more folk can enjoy riding. Nice expensive bikes in today's ruined and fallen society has become less appealing.
😂😂 you guys are funny. No, you did not say you can get superior braking performance from one single piston brake with a larger rotor. You guys really need to do your homework.
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
What upgrades do you think are worth the money?
On a trail bike; sorted suspension, very stiff cranks, aenomaly switchgrade.
Didn't mention wheels because depending on your style of riding you shouldn't all be riding lightweight wheels 😂
*_Everything._* But let the existing part wear out or break first.
Good tires are a must… before wheels , my personal opinion…
saddle, grips, tires, bars, wheels…. oddly enough, everything I’ve changed on the bike I’m dialing in right now.
A nice pair of center pull hubs on nice rims. Perfect replacement for my Intense branded hubs and E13 rims.
I love Anna so much. Shes so adorable and must be protected at all costs 😭😭 combined with Owens ability to break things down in a way that isnt rude but rather uplifting - theyre my favorite gmbn duo!!!
Protected how? Is she in danger? What does this even mean?
Only thing missing is doddy sadly
As a great upgrade, I would suggest a good saddle! There is nothing worse than an uncomfortable ride. It could shorten a beautiful day if it hurts so much you cannot enjoy it! 😅
Upgraded my cheap dropper post lever to a nicer one with ball bearing pivot, seemed simple but made a big difference.
Yay, Anna is back! Dropper post is the top choice.
Aww, thank you. 👋
Completely agree with Anna on top spec suspension. I’d rather have a Deore level groupset and a Factory/Ultimate fork than a blingy drivetrain and budget fork.
A man after my own heart there! Totally agree.
First upgrades I recommend to people is getting all contact points sorted out. Just get the proper tires, saddle, pedals (maybe MTB shoes) and grips (possibly gloves) for your riding style. Then make the bike to fit you. There is no point in messing with other upgrades if you have trouble keeping your body on the bike or if it feels uncomfortable to ride.
I kept getting stem slip , changed to a DMR stem with oversized bolts for steerer tube, fills me with more confidence which has definatley helped me to push it a lot harder!
I would have added bars to the list. Proper fitting and comfy bars can make a HUGE difference to the feel of a bike for little money.
Bars, stem, saddle, grips etc.
One day all of these won't be included with high end bikes 😂
@@LaurentiusTriarius don't forget the seatpost! Droppers are almost all the time wrong length anyway. If not even rigid
#quiz FSA stands for full speed ahead !!
Upgrades that I felt biggest difference (decreasing order):
Wheels
Tires
Brakeset
Touch points
All this talk of relatively inexpensive upgrades has me thinking about this and that on my bike...until I remember it's just a $1500 hardtail that will be relegated to commuter duty. The money will be better spent getting a proper full sus trail bike AFTER I move across the pond to Portugal. Then, I can go wild with those upgrades!
Decent grips are a game changer. I bought some cheap Temu grips that were terrifying to use…. Finally invested in ergon and they revolutionised the feel!
PNW has been making stems for years. The Range Stem is usually paired with the Range Alloy bar. The new Loam Stem is meant to be paired with the Loam Carbon bar.
#QUIZ. FSA stands for "Full Speed Ahead" Almost sounds like a command I heard when I was in the Navy. LOL. Thanks Owen and Anna for another great show
Lots of dropped posts are shipped with crap levers which really negatively affects the dropper performance. I upgraded mine to a ZTTO lever. Absolutely brilliant.
2nd upgrade. Tyre insert. Cushcore For Tubelesz and Tannus Armour for inner tubes. I don’t leave home without them.
#quiz FSA = Full Speed Ahead (way too easy)
*full spread ahead.
It's named after a failure.
This lady is an inspiration. Not often we see a female talking mtb. I love it. I love all the videos you guys create
Anna is back! Yay! Thanks for this episode! I’m working towards i9 hydra hubs as an upgrade!
Thanks!! And wow...I9... you won't be disappointed.
changed the rear wheel after 8 years without wheel hub maintenance on an XC 120mm I went from 25kph max on flat to an easy 32kph that's 4.3mph just because of the new rear wheel hub (old was half rusted) Shimano WH-MT500 not expensive wheels which also have a wider jaw from my old 21 to new 24mm weirdly that simple change made me able to pedal without hands a bike that was very unstable before and I love it that wheel change was a huge upgrade I beat all my Strava times with it and after 1 ride bought the front wheel to have a matching jaw width pair (rocket ron tires 27.5x2.25)
Air compressor is a good upgrade
Pinion 12 speed is a wonderful machine. I have it on a full suspension trail bike, works great for long rides and touring.
FSA - is Full Speed AHead - They started as a windsurfing component company and I was lucky enough to be sponsored by them and my photo was on their first ever catalogue that was printed on A4 Paper - yes I am that old :)
If you can lock up your front, bigger brakes won’t make your bike stop any better (unless you’re getting fade from too much heat). Traction is the biggest limiting factor in braking distance, so better tires will help there more than a bigger rotor.
It's not that simple (IMHO), less powerful brakes take more rider finger effort, this means less control. So can actually mean that less powerful brakes are more likely to lock the wheel, more powerful brakes require less effort, and therefore offer more control at the extremes of tyre grip.
@@jonm7272 smaller rotors can provide better modulation. Lever pull effort on modern properly tuned hydraulic brakes is almost nonexistent. Tire traction is lower than the braking power of even the smallest rotors. Since modulation is better with smaller rotors, the smallest rotor/pad combination to manage heat gives you the best control. At 210 pounds plus gear, I’ve done full hard charging park days and hit Cannel Plunge fast and safe with 180 mm rotors. I guess the proof that heat management was the issue came when my first time on Cannell plunge I burned up my front brake to the point that it completely failed. Rotor change colors, and the fluid was so cooked that my mechanic said it was the worst he’d ever flushed. I did the same ride a year later, with the same size rotors using Shimano IceTech rotors and pads. Didn’t have a single breaking issue the entire day.
@@SprSonik13 "Lever pull effort on modern properly tuned hydraulic brakes is almost nonexistent"... I have Code RSC on a 200mm/180mm front/rear disk on one of my bikes, it has a lot of power. But my fingers are still bloody aching after a 20 minute descent off a 800m hillside, doing the same thing on 2-pot 180mm discs would leave me at the absolute limit of my fingers and they'd be aching so much I'd be trying to get two fingers onto my one finger levers, this is not a good situation for fine control. But what the hell do I know, I've only got 4 bikes, with different braking set-ups on all of them, and I only ride around 4000km a year (mainly cross country), so I'm probably wrong.
@@jonm7272 It's not only about finger ache. Stressing the index finger makes all other fingers loose fine control and it will somewhat "lock up" your elbow suspension. When I upgraded from hardtail to middle tier trail bike (hardtail was good, brakes were the only weak part of it), the brakes were the most noticeable surprise. I actually appreciated this change more than the fact it was a full-sus 😀. I was so frustrated I started to wonder "how do they keep control on steep DH?" After changing to bike with adequate brakes, I said "Ahh, now I get it..."
20% of the changes I make on my bikes is for actually improving the ride. The rest is bling 😂
The single best upgrade for me is shorter cranks. It is the first upgrade I do on all my bikes. Nothing ruins the joy of riding like constant pedal strikes.
Heres a TOP upgrade...Get a LITELOK X1 D-Lock....Angle grinder resistant..A must have!!!
The best upgrade anyone can make is free. That is spending time tuning your bike, suspension and tyre pressure. You say high end suspension is worth the money and if you know how to tune it you’re probably right. But let’s face it 70% of riders don’t tune anything on their bike and for them high end suspension is a total waste of money.
The correct suspension setup is also important, you can have the top of the range components and if they aren't dialed in to your weight and riding style they're worthless.
I started mtb last year with scott spark 970, the lowest tier model but in that time it was perfect due to fact that i was starting my journey, after a year i did some upgrades. Started with brakes due to fact that stock ones(mt 201) disc broke twice and i put slx (4 pistons f&r). Next part was a fork stock judy silver started to lose air and due to fact that i improved my ride it wasn't fast enough with rebound etc so i got a fox 34 factory on disocunt(big game changer, after that it feels like a new bike), next important upgrade were tires, i put maxxis forekaster front and rekon rear. Though it will be all for this yearm, but rear shock has broken i did bit impossible thing i mean i got fox nude shock which is almost impossible to get and this part is as same gamechanger as fork, again i have to get used to new feeling of the bike.
After winter i will got more comfy seat and pair of wheels.
Bearings... ROFL. Unless you upgrade your ball bearings to a roller bearings (potentially ~1% difference in efficiency) it's a full on marketing bullshit.
YES! I finally know the quiz answer. FSA = Full Speed Ahead!
A derelict bike I picked up recently hadn't been ridden for 5 years and had old tires in good condition but with hardened compounds. The tires are probably OK in summer but may be slippery when wet...brand new tires are always amazing.
Beer keg holder, headache tablets and stabilisers.
18:41 Having the chainring puncture your skin along your shin/calf is sometimes referred to as a Shark-bite.
In that case I have a shark-bite scar on my right calf 🦈
I did my right calf on a 2x front chainring also.
forks and great bottom bracket is a Good upgrade option
Shocked at the PNW stem; for that price, you expect to at least get blind bar clamp holes. Even the $20 cheap ones from Toseek often have that.
#quiztime - FSA = “Full speed ahead” - though, I’ve never owned any of their gear, it seems pretty popular here in the Midwest/US..
The last 2 Rockshox I purchased had practically no oil in them,and one pair didn't even have Crush washers on the Lowers.I now completely strip down any suspension components I get,before I go out riding..And from a Major Manufacturer like Rockshox is a Bloody joke...I hear I'm not the only one either...
Check out Versus tires. They are amazing
#quiz. FSA stands for Full Speed Ahead.
FSA - Full Speed Ahead!
#quiz Easy one this week - Full Speed Ahead
i have a trek Roscoe 7 because i got it for FREE FROM A GUY in perfect condition or i NEVER thought of having one, needed a $20 shifter and upgraded $100 BUCKS COST.....i put on a royal Italian comfy seat and nicer grips and aluminum peddles and a riser on and use it as a CASUAL CRUSER ....HEY IT WAS FREE....! I have tons of trails and quiet safe tourist places to putts around for casual EXERCISE.....
#quiz FSA stands for Full Speed Ahead
Thanks hope for making cranks as short as my pedals, can't we just ditch pedals and have pegs? 😅
No1 has to be tyers👍
Tires and really good suspension first and foremost!!
#quiz fsa stands for full speed ahead
always go hope on my bottom bracket brilliant brand
FSA stands for full speed ahead.
FSA stands for Full Speed Ahead
Looks like things have chilled in a beautiful way man...second date and understanding each other soo much better. Just a big Sunday afternoon cuddle and man...what can I say
Congratulations to both of you.
Anna is back… 🎉🎉🎉
Thanks for noticing 🥰
#quiz FSA is full speed ahead.
Don't need rim protection, I've got a Sharpie :-)
#quiz FSA "full speed ahead"
FSA - Full Speed Ahead.
Ful speed ahead..!!!
Be good to have a link to your brake disc review...
Best upgrade, training to ride a bike.
FSA stands for "full speed ahead" and they are making world class bicycle parts in taiwan
#quiz Full Speed Ahead. How is that even a quiz question!
#quiz - FSA = Full Speed Ahead
Full speed ahead!!!!!!! Get it!
Radial tires !!!!!!!❤
#quiz not me, pretending not to have seen all the comments saying full speed ahead. Answering the quiz with my own answer, full speed ahead, would love to see my name on screen next week 😉
#QUIZ FSA stands for Full Speed Ahead very apt great products
FSA stands for full speed ahead of
#gmbntech #quiz it stands for full speed ahead. FSA rolls off the tongue better.
Full speed ahead
I have found that single piston brakes are the best. For my money single piston brakes are easier to set up and maintain than dual piston brakes, so in the real world, over a year you get better braking for an equal amount of maintenance and faff.
It's about getting brakes capable of stopping you without over-stressing your finger too much. If you can do it with single piston brakes, good for you. But when you ride steep downhill terrain, one piston brakes start to get painful, your grip gets uncomfortable and you just can't manipulate the bike as you want to. It also tenses up your whole arms. You can't have loose arms and let your bike move underneath you if you have a starting rigor mortis in your index fingers.
@themoss7115 I must confess I am a climber so can't relate to finger strength issues. 😂
Isnt FSA something like Full Speed Ahead?
FSA - Full Speed Ahead
I’m thinking about a rise jones h bar
#quiz - Hi GMBN Team! FSA = Full Speed Ahead!
FSA= Full speed ahead
Wheels! Definitely wheels.
#quiz FSA= Full Speed Ahead
FSA would be Full Speed Ahead
FAS = Full Speed Ahead.
FSA = Full Speed Ahead 😊
FSA is full speed ahead
#gmbntech I have an XT drive train my my 2022 transition patrol. When I pedal backwards in the easiest gears my chain wants to work it way down and jam. Is my cassette wearing out? I never let my chains go beyond wear point.
I think this can have something to do with the chain line. I have ridden bikes where this did not happen - and others where it did happen when the drivetrain was in new condition.
FSA = Full Speed Ahead 🙂
Im not sure £82 for some stickers/protective film to go on your mountain bike wheels does seem "quite reasonable" 🤷♂
FSA Full Speed Ahead
Full Speed Ahead
#quiz FullSpeedAhead good stuff
FSA = Full Speed Ahead
#quiz full speed ahead
For the average rider they are not going to use the benefits of a top line suspension. If your an average joe or June save that money for rent or a nice vacation.
But worn down tires go faster
Serious question; does being taller reduce the effectiveness of a dropper post?
I have had mtbs since the mid 90s. I rarely find my seat to be in the way. My latest 110 mm bike came with one and after a couple weeks I ripped it out for the weight savings.
So am too tall to appreciate the benefits (75 inches/191 cm)? Too old... not gnarly enough?
@@smithandshortdogs I completely agree. I’m thinking of ditching mine as well.
Is that all you done in 6 months not much lol 😂
who asked for 135mm cranks?
BMX and dirt jumpers maybe. Lol.
The enormalycontructs seat adjuster is too expensive starting from £170.
I can easily afford one and would like one. However, I'm not paying that price. I'd rather see it made accessible to more people.
I don't want exclusive stuff, I already feel like a twat having a nice bike already.
Riding around on a nice bike is horrible, I feel like a sitting target sometimes.
I'd rather see them sold cheaper so they sell more and more folk can enjoy riding.
Nice expensive bikes in today's ruined and fallen society has become less appealing.
😂😂 you guys are funny. No, you did not say you can get superior braking performance from one single piston brake with a larger rotor. You guys really need to do your homework.
MTB ARE DEAD