Vibroshock Tool Review Conundrum
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- More information on the Vibroshock tool demonstrated in the video can be found here → amzn.to/2rDn4e7 The Metabo impact gun (shown) info can be found here → amzn.to/2rn2WMC
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More information on the Vibroshock tool demonstrated in the video can be found here → amzn.to/2rDn4e7
The Metabo impact gun (shown) info can be found here → amzn.to/2rn2WMC
Thanks for the honest tool review.
Hellcat Maggy lol
Agreed - I think the concept is fine...I think the bolt was just too bad. I can think of lots of times where what appears to be fruitless efforts with impacts, but the fact the job MUST be done, would be assisted with this tool anyway.
Sometimes no matter how good you're tools are, ya gotta break out the torch. Real life can suck sometimes. Thanks for not "faking" success just to push the tool for them. Shows integrity and that's why I have been subbed to you since almost day one my friend!
“Tommy Gun”
Ya, Ya... "your" not "you're". LoL
Hi everyone,
Funny to bump into this video featuring our own product ;-) We actually designed this tool 3 years ago to help mechanics here in Europe.
Thank you Brian for your video; we think it is a good example of what can happen in real life. If you don’t mind we’d like to add our input to it.
As you well explain it, the vibration allows to loosen the nut breaking the rust within the threads but also to ease penetrating oil to get in between the threads. This would have terribly helped using penetrating oil.
Then as a physical phenomenon, vibration efficiency fades out very quickly when applied on a moving part. Here the exhaust pipe lays down on your worktable. Fixed on the car, vibration would have been a lot more efficient.
Last info we would like to share with all of you: do not hesitate to vibrate for at least one or two minutes in a row before applying torque. We all tend to use Vibroshock as an impact wrench and expect immediate result. However vibration needs time to do the job.
Oh yeah, and one more thing; for all of you who work on Diesel cars, Vibroshock works very well on frozen glowplugs (max torque : 4Nm!). ;-)
Brian, if you would like more input, do not hesitate to get back to us. And keep up the good work!
A picture(whole video actually) is worth a thousand words: ruclips.net/video/2qbIWzMRnYo/видео.html
Indeed! :-) Thanx for that!
That ladder footage is classic. Made me laugh first thing waking up. Thanks for making my day!
I bought a kit similar to this one designed for brake bleeder screws. That one has a little wire that you put down the center so the center hole doesn't collapse with the impact. Last time I used it, it didn't work. However I wouldn't blame the tool necessarily, vibration can certainly bust loose corrosion and help to get things moving. I think the quality of the air chisel, and especially the capacity of your air compressor tank, will make a big difference there. Eric O has a favorite air chisel made by astro pneumatic that would be fun to have, ha ha. For a guy like you with handy oxyacetylene, it's hard to be faster than torching manifold or exhaust bolts right off.
I don't have anything against this tool per say. It's quite well made. Either I'm using it wrong, or the bolt is too stuck, or the concept is flawed. The air hammer is a Cornwell Tools. It's the best one I've come across from the different shops I've worked at. It was the one always getting borrowed for the tough stuff.
LOL that ladder commercial needed a stuntman
The whole time I was editing this (hours) I kept thinking about that classic old home shopping network thing. That guy really committed whole heartedly to the task, but the demo just went to crap anyway. That lady laughing at him just makes it that much more memorable.
I didn't know what a master shot was back then. I do now. Why'd they leave it all in instead of edit down from the original full raw footage? Safety message for locking it in right? I don't know. But that commercial was SOOO painful that I even had nightmares about it way back when.
Now I understand. That's what poor editing does to viewers! LOL :)
Seen the same idea years ago, worked just as good then. One I saw that did work was a version of a manual hammer type impact that went into an air hammer. It worked but a regular air impact wrench was more compact and you didn't need to have multiple tools to remove the stuck bolts.
One of those ideas that seemed so good on paper
(marriage license)
I've learned over the years the one tool that comes through time and time again is heat!
What I've found that tool concept works wonders on is frozen in duramax glow plugs. They're too weak to muscle them out without them breaking off so the vibration really helps bust them loose.
They should make the air hammer shank right on to the socket all as one piece for all sizes.
Tommy Gun. I don't think I would have any better success than you did Brian but would give it a try
I use something extremely similar to this at work. we call it a screw knocker or grasshopper and it is only ever used for internal wrenching fasteners, it works extremely well on them as it prevents you from stripping it as well as the hammering on the screw. with a bolt, the hammering action is not on the fastener itself but rather the metal around it which would be far less effective. if you could drive a Phillips bit with that tool it would be invaluable and I think it would perform way better.
That is a shake and brake and have been used in aviation forever. I have the Phoenix break free version which is especially good at removing stuck brake bleeders, and those Phillips head screws that hold the rotors on. I back it with a snap on 5030 air hammer which helps. Chris
I got something like that for loosening screws and it works.
If you used it on a nut or bolt that has a flange the socket will transfer the beating of the air hammer directly to the fastener, without it just hammers the workpiece. They use a similar tool in Aviation for phillips head screws (and others) and it works great.
Check out "Bogit and Leggit's" review and demonstration of this tool.
His title is Hubritool Vibroshock.
Leon leaves the hammer going much longer and works the handle back and forth.
I got to that point and i just got out the portaband and the welder.... passed emissions tests :) it took two hours but was substantially less frustrating than trying to get the bolts off....
I have a tool like that for my air hammer, except you supply your own socket and wrench. I also use it with a .498 shank, not that wimpy .401 sized shank. Best uses are for screws in rotors, hammering a smaller socket into a fastener, and to just shake all the rust off of a car. Trying to do anything else with it is a waste of time.
I'm sure it works well, but on those thru bolts on exhaust, when I worked at Goodyear, I would hit it a little with the impact, but if it didn't budge, I'd go straight to the acetylene torch and just cut it. working flat rate, you gotta move, can't waste 15-30 minutes on a stuck bolt. maybe try this tool again? you had both best and worst case with that pipe.
I totally agree. The build quality is good, the idea seems good. I wound up using a cut off wheel on this one. Took less than a minute to get it apart.
Don't give up on this tool, I've got one and its got me out of the sh1t so many times it's unreal. I think your biggest problem is your air hammer you need a fast hitting one to get best results. Its best on torque/Allen bolts and bleed screws. I had to tac weld the handle to the drive shaft because the circlip kept coming off
This type of tool does work well on the correct applications. It works best when the bolt is attached to something solid and immovable, like a manifold bolt you don't want to break off or hard to find suspension/chassis bolts. The exhaust pipe is not attached to anything and just moves with the vibration of the air hammer. Also you should know that a bolt that has welded itself to the flange should have penetrating oil and heat if you want to remove it with out breaking regardless of which tool you use. Personally I would have just used a grinder to begin with those bolts are rarely reusable when that stuck.
Tommy Gun. I'll take it and do a good test on it. I work on a lot of suspension stuff so something like this seems like I could use if it truly works. So I'd love to give it a shot for a few weeks and then give an honest review as well as make a few videos while using it. Let me know and love your vids. Keep pushing.
this tool will be great for pulling wheel hub assembly, put couple bolt back on the hub and use this..i made a tool almost the same for same purpose
Good review. You should have brought out the torch.
After what I've been through the last few days working on my truck I was ready to take a "Tommy Gun" to it !! 😆
I do believe that tool would work wonders in the right situation, but it needs to be able to put the hammer action on the bolt. In your case I don't think it was!
Thanks for sharing and take care.
*"OMG HAROLD! ARE YOU OK?"* (Face plant into aluminum girder, whiplash, broken back)
Harold is an alpha salesman. Took it like a champ!
But the Tommy Gun worked so well in the infomercials!
What the heck is this.... I've never seen such a tool. The basic principle makes sense, but if you need to pull out the air hammer why not just pull out the impact gun. Or why not just use the air hammer on the head of the bolt to loosen it?
I would give it a shot.
It defiantly does not always work out as intended.. good idea though... admittedly I kept watching for the old school ladder failure.. I bet that totally killed sales on that one for a while.
Tommy Gun My friend got 1 2 weeks ago and tried it for 4 different things . It failed miserably . He just sold it at a yard sale . I would love to try to win one and see if it works to get the stuck bolts on my wheel chair .
I'd have been tempted to drop the air hammer and smack it with a mini sledge a few times to see if that made any improvement. Just to try to verify if the air hammer was underpowered for the task.
"Tommy Gun". Thanks for the good, honest review.
“Tommy Gun”. I have used the Mayhew Pro 37315 and the Thexton THE482 but neither were more impressive than what you showed. Heat and penetrating oil are my friends but both take time not planned. the Thexton only does screws but I find a manual impact driver better. Once the fastner rounded off, cut it off. Not worth the fight. Thanks Brian. James
I would be happy to give this Tommy Gun a shot!
"Tommy Gun" wouldn't my testing it out on my channel
I am not sure how this would work any better than an impact as it already hammers as it turns...also there is not much leverage with that ratchet portion. but I don't mind having another tool to play with, plus I can loan it out to a few friends of mine that are pro mechanics, maybe they can figure out if it truly works. Tommy Gun
Tommy Gun. Perhaps it works best on bolts that don't have nuts on them, but thread into say an engine block. Seems like it would rattle the bolt more effectively that way. Just a thought.
In theory sound like it would work good - vibrating the nut or bolt - the action that you just showed changed that
Hey Brian, you're one of the few youtubers I hit like before watching. I don't however think I want that tool lol.
Have you given any thought to the video talking about mechanic scams?
Hey Barry, I have. I'm stuck at where to aim it though. I have severe trust issues with other people working on my stuff- much of it is because of incompetency rather than dishonesty though. I'd catch the dishonesty pretty quick. Incompetency I think can be a bigger issue.
Brian, I'm with you all the way.
Just yesterday My stepdaughter calls and says a shop want to charge her over $1000 for a whole list of stuff she doesn't need just to pass inspection and it not even due for inspection.
she just went to find out what the leak was
I began that concern with dishonesty 38 years ago when someone tried to scam my grandmother for $500 worth of suspension parts on an alignment. In 1979 that was a lot of money.
I don't know whether incompetency or dishonesty but I suspect the latter in my experience when I recently bought a 98 Expy with 236,000 miles on it. Took it in with an EGR and lean bank code and was given a $2700 estimate for everything from head gasket replacement to radiator leak.
I took it home and did all the needed repairs myself, which didn't include the rock solid radiator with absolutely NO leaks or head gaskets. They missed the weak sending unit/fuel pump (which I replaced), too. $200 and a few headaches later and the truck runs like brand new.
$2700 to someone who had to have all out LIED to me? As Libertarian as I like to try to be....there should be a law....
That is a touchy subject. Even the most honest mechanics probably patched 1 or 2 things with bubblegum in their lifetimes. Dr O aka the Honest Mechanic hah probably can attest to that. But they could attest to their temptations to cut corners! :)
I think that was the wrong application for that tool.
Might have worked better if you had a bucking bar behind the bolt head, but most of that impact energy was being expended on the exhasut flange rather than on the contact area between the bolt and nut threads.
IDK.
I think it would work best when the force of the hammer is focused through the fastener interface.
I think you should perhaps make another review when you have a bolt stuck in some heavy casting like an engine block.
bolts that are stuck in nuts are not going to be as affected by that tool.
Needs a dose of Eric O's "Big Nasty" That air hammer is amazing.
That's the word on the street. I'd love to see it too.
Guy Incognito Big nasty uses a different size.
There's probably a reducer or another way to make that shank fit.
Eric O's "Big Nasty is nasty that thing can hammer out just about anything
The really powerful ones cost a LOT more. Sigh. It's easier to just beat on your very endurable and affordable air tools with air lines that are above 90 PSI. :) I'm running my home one "right". I makes all my tools feel under powered except delicate ones which I had to seriously soft trigger at any shop.
Tommy 🔫 id love to try it out im going to be taking out my grill to change my timing guide
Could definitely give it a try, and could let you know: Tommy Gun
Not trying to be a jerk but you can't expect that to work without heating it first. The idea is that the heat expands the threads and shocking it breaks the rust free. Guarantee if you heated the nut it would have walked right off. Never used this tool but been a mechanic in the rust belt for 5 years.
Hey Brian,
Looks like it's not actually hitting on the bolt head... but pounding the metal around it?
Might be more effective with a short socket or a spacer that contacts the bolt head?
Make sense?
That totally makes sense. I'm using the sockets provided in the kit. They're stepped.
2 things, one your hammer looks weak, need mo powa! also, this most effective on bolts where you can hammer the head. it looks as if this bolt head is too short and the socket is hammering on the flange.
You need a real air hammer. If you are like me you might have assumed all air hammers are pretty similar, and I suppose they are. Astro is the exception. Can't believe I paid $300 or whatever it was, but I can tell you it flippin works wonders.
I'll get one. I bought this Cornwell because I borrowed one twice and it worked great.
The smaller guns are good 90 percent of the time. The larger shank units like Eric O uses are great for breaking things loose but they take serious air (plus Eric doesn't run his tools at label pressure !)
Tommy Gun is firing blanks so far
Work better on the shouldered nut
Tommy gun
“Tommy Gun,
Looks like Shake N Break Air Impact Screw Remover. I would give it a try.
You need to get yourself a "Big Nasty" haha.
Send that old "TOMMY GUN" kit my way. I"ll give it a try and let you know what I think about it.
Have a Great Day.
Well that was an A+ for effort. I was betting it would work...(insert Price is Right fail music now) haha
It seemed like such a great idea. I think I set my expectations too high or I'm using it wrong.
You're theory about it working better on the smaller side is right. I think the metal pieces you were working with were just completely rust fused together.
Tommy Gun looks interesting
Tommy Gun Maybe you need more impact force like Eric O's Big Nasty by Astro.
If you used an adapter to a P2 head this “Tommy Gun” might make removing stubborn rotor hat screws easier. Also could you try to use the “Tommy Gun” in an 20v impact gun or may be adapt said “Tommy Gun” with the fake rock hammer setting on a battery powered dewalt type drill. Either way I'm off to RUclips to watch “Tommy Gun” videos. Thanks bunches
I'd have to get my Subaru a bit more rusty to even need one of those, every bolt under the 13 year old Subaru comes out with hand tools and without issue. Tommy Gun
Brian, that's some funny Sh*t ! LOL ! ( The ladder vid and the tool ! ) I was going to add that tool to my amazon wish list, but after watching this vid, I don't think so ! Oh Yea , Tommy Gun ! I could use the sockets ! LOL !
Tommy Gun
So far about the only thing I can think of that it might be helpful for is balljoint/tre nuts.
PS: WOOPS...I didn't realize I had another youtube audio coming thru at the same time. Sorry for the criticism. I should have known better that to jump to the conclusion.
Best Wishes, Ben
No problem at all. I was wondering about the music as I don't have any. I really do appreciate the follow up though. All the best man!
I've alway used one of two methods either heat or I just break the bolt off.
Oh, by the way, TOMMY GUN I'll give it a shot and I'll make a video using it
Well Brian that was not good. I never seen a tool being demonstrated by you that would fail. Yes you could just have the worst bolt for demo but you would think it would of come close to breaking free. Oh well maybe next time brother. Good job Brian and have a good day!
I'm a sucker for new tools but this one has me saying nope. The premise of it shocking the threads loose is a good one but then using a short handle to try and break it free while your hammering on it seems a waste compared to a impact.
Oh baby! "TOMMY GUN"
Clash fan, by any chance?
"Tommy gun
You ain't happy unless you got one
Tommy gun
Ain't gonna shoot the place up just for fun."
The Vibroshock will only work on a flange nut or bolt else your just hammering past the bolt head.
Good review, but a blue wrench would have done a better job.
nice Tommy Gun....
You should build a drift car
No thank you. Got a cut off wheel, grinder and a torch. Looked brutal doing that, that was just plain stuck, if your impact couldn't do it, nothing would. Thanks for the review.
you have to light it up with acetaline the it would be at ease
Brian, do you have a recommendation for a decent cheap impact tool?
I like the concept but like you, I'd rather go with a more proven method/tool. But thanks for the review, not all of them work out like the manufacture would like but it's RUclips, you have to be honest.
I've been a mechanic for over 40 years and never needed anything like that...Seems just a little gimmicky to me.
MAC makes a strong impact wrench that can handle 1-1/8" lug nuts
I would love to have a “Tommy Gun” in my tool box.
I think we need the real “Tommy Gun”...
Using this style tool on through bolts will not work very well. i primarily use this kind of tool on glow plugs on diesels, exhaust manifold bolts and bell housing bolts.
That is a knock off (sorry...) of what is called a "screw knocker" or "old man," most commonly used in the aviation industry. A screw knocker is designed to impact the head of a screw, allen bolt, etc while turning. The impacts hit directly on the head, which transfers the vibration through the threads of the screw.
When used on a "regular" bolt/nut like that, not as much vibration is transferred because the socket is "sliding" up and down along the sides of the bolt head, and not really impacting the head itself. It's not that it CAN'T work, but because not as vibration is actually transferred through the bolt, it's just not as effective as it would be on a screw.
They do work well on flanged bolts, though, as the socket vibrates against the flange as you turn - though still not quite as effective as how it works on a screw (because the flange will flex microscopically, absorbing some of the impact), still better than a normal bolt head.
You could also make it more effective if you can either use a short socket (or cut one down) so the seat of the socket actually hits the head of the bolt, or if you can use/cut a piece of cr-mo or cr-va steel to put in the socket so the impact can transfer from the seat of the socket onto the head of the bolt directly.
Tommy Gun is the ticket
And you don't get the fun of the hot lead the Tommy Gun puts out
i.believe the "Tommy Gun" might have a application at certain situations , not sure yet.
The Tommy Gun comparison! lmao
tommy gun and i can see it having its place
use a breaker bar.
Looks like the "Tommy Gun" could use a little more ammo!
I don't want that, Send me a cutoff wheel, works every time lol
Maybe you didn't locked 🔒 it
lol give it to your old lady she might get some use out of it lmfao
lol man yo make my day
Send it to me I'll try it
not all tools are as good as they claim to be. nice vid
See these guys didn't claim anything- they just said would you like to try it. I love the build quality, the case, and the concept. I just couldn't make it outshine what I've got.
true. I meant "as you'd hope". I can't say I was awake when I posted that!
A real "tommy gun" would get the bolt out...disintegrating the pipe around the bolt probably doesn't count, though.
It seems Tommy Gun is another gimmick. However, I would like to try it to have data before condemning it.
It really didn't look to impressive. Maybe try it on something other than exhaust.