After watching endless reviews on calipers, THIS is by far the most informative and the best yet. Other review videos greet you with a non-human, robot voice, that simply read off factory stated specs. They are not reliable and are useless. This was a refreshing change, thank you.
People should beware of the knock off Mitutoyo 500-196-30 Digital Calipers being sold on ebay. The ones that are fake have the small 5th digit on the inch scale. The authentic Mitutoyo all have full size numbers. Thanks for the thorough review. The Igaging 100-700-33-B are mighty tempting.
Very useful video, as an engineering student it seems like the igaging is at that perfect middle ground where I feel like I am not just buying one for an assingment. It will be good enough for the next few years, and if I need something better, then the Mitotoyo will be what I need. Thank you
In the Machinest trade school I attend we were issued alot of Machinest tools.. (tools of the trade)... And those include a set of Dial calipers as well as 0-1" O.D. Mic's. And some other tool as well. Like tool boxes . And finger indicators and center gages etc.etc.... And by in large in six months so far that I've been attending the Basic Machinest course. More than half of us have struggled with our cheap 30$ Chinese made Fowler dial calipers. I ended up getting a gift from a retired Machinest a set of NSK dial calipers. And they've been phenomenal m I've used them for the past four months. Consistently with good results. The flowers broke within the first 8 weeks of school.. as well as other students. .one of my fellow students ended up getting a set of 8" Mitutoyo digital calipers about 270$. But he's pretty happy with them.
Hi bro, I really like your videos. What is your opinion on calipers without thumb wheel, I saw some Mitutoyo models without it... Does it have a particular field where it's used or if it is just a preference? Thank you
Thx! For me, without them it's really for very "rough" measurements. The thumbwheel is what allows you to put repeated and consistent light pressure on the object under measurement with the jaws. Without it, or without ones that are smooth, you won't be consistent and measurements won't be as accurate as they could be/should be.
@@netmagi Got my Mitutoyo today, same as yours, it's worth the money. Beautiful tool. :D Yea, that's what I thought about the thumbwheele, it's kinda easier to put same measuring force each time.
As an FYI, I have a Chinesium full stainless steel (including housing, all silver colour with a silver plastic battery door) that set me back $12 shipped from China. Equivalents on Amazon are ~$25. Moves smoothly, perfectly repeatable with no slop in the jaws, and no visible inaccuracy with several standards. Sometimes needs to be zeroed after lying in the box for an extended period (months). The action is not as satisfying as on an original Mitutoyo, but not rough in any way. If you don't buy the absolutely cheapest ones like shown here with a plastic black housing, you have a good chance of getting something that works flawlessly with no modification. Mitutoyo used to cost a lot because they had the patent on capacitive sensing. It is now expired, and the cost to make something comparable in terms of functionality is not high. Mitutoyo still cost the same because they're exploiting their brand and prejudice against Chinesium products, plus have a more pleasant fit/finish/feel and pros have no problem spending the money on a tool they'll use daily. If you're not a pro - and chances are you're not if you're watching this - unless you have spare money and like to have "nice" tools even if you only use them occasionally, a good Chinesium one will do very nicely and you won't sweat over getting it dirty or dropping it.
Thank you for the video! I also own a Mitutoyo and ordered Terma for myself ... I feel sorry for the Japanese :) - I use it to check the rest of the calipers ....
I battled the decision between igauging and another brand called Insize, around the same price range. I was not gonna spend a fortune or buy another cheap piece of junk that might quit in a month or less. I got the insize, mainly due to the fact they were NIST certified tested and calibrated to strict standards, they came with a certificate test sheet. I'm happy about my choice, it doesn't have fractions, but there's calculators for that. It's very smooth action, zeros out everytime the jaws close and accurate as daylight unless you get a speck of dirt in the jaws, so i clean them often. I measured a cat hair from my cat, he didn't mind it... some cat hairs may differ. The hair was 0.0002 of an inch everytime I took the measurement. It takes the 3.0 volt CR2032 battery with capable PC hookup, "which is another reason I got them" not those tiny 1.5 volt 44's that don't last. I do not regret the decision, some saying they're as good as mitutoyo's???... I sure hope so.
Would love to have a pair to test. Just spent ~20 mins looking around on their site. Here's what I found: US-based co. importing from Asia (probably to their own spec). They 'turn-on' with movement, so they are probably the type that eats batteries, but with a larger battery that I'm sure lasts longer than the $20 ones. The do offer NIST on some units, but not their cheaper ones. The ones with NIST-certification appear to be on par price-wise with Mitutoyo. They DO disclose in the downloadable catalog on their site which ones actually have NIST certification/traceability.
@@netmagi the mitutoyo's I looked at were $100 bucks or more depending on the model. The Insize model# 1108-150 I purchased on Amazon were $46 and change. I don't know the real world comparison between the two, but the price range was sure different. For $46 bucks offering certification I didn't think I could go wrong. Pick you up a pair if you got the spare cash, well worth checking out for a comparison video... I'd watch it for sure.
Pretty good comparison of the 3 calipers and mostly correct but not complete assessment. I should mention that I do have 4 Calipers, the Chinese cheapo, 2 iGaging Calipers (100 700 06 and the 100 700 33) and a Mitutoyo (500 196 30). Both my iGaging calipers are as accurate as the Mitutoyo for almost 65% less money. They all operate very smoothly although I had to clean the iGaging calipers with Isopropyl alcohol to get the smoothness as with the Mitutoyo. The 33 iGaging does have the fractional not offered with the Mitutoyo , but both iGaging calipers have a SPC/USB data output that is compatible with the Mitutoyo hardware/software or visa versa. a SPC/USB is available on Mitutoyo model #500-170-30 and 500-171-30. Bottom line is that both iGaging calipers are comparable to the Mitutoyo dollar for dollar but to say that the roller is not as good is debatable. Personally I have no complaints of the iGaging or Mitutoyo calipers, they all work and work very well. The Chinese cheapo I will leave as is. It is what it is. In a nutshell IMO the iGaging and Mitutoyo are the best there is and I will say that the other top Cadillac brands (expensive brands) are built in China as well and only assembled in the USA. Not like they use to be. Hope this helps.
I think quality control on the iGaging ones just isn't quite as good. I don't doubt yours are smooth, but mine sticks and jams a bit. Would it stop me from buying another or recommending? No, but I wouldn't expect that issue from a Mitutoyo product either. I do agree though that dollar for dollar, the iGaging is a better buy.
Good afternoon, thank you very much for a very detailed review and very thorough tests with repeated measurements. I myself have been using Mitutoyo calipers for 10 years. The Diamond Master model. You can see it on my channel. Mitutoyo do excellent things. Indeed, as a piece of jewelry. Thank you very much, good day and good luck
Nice vid. Haven't seen a micrometer in years. I actually use one now(given to me from uncle whole was engineer) aa been using all this time, but tired of it; so looking at digital calipers. Found vid interesting aa great. Can't afford the Mitutoyo right now. Was thinking of a cheaper $20 model, but after this vid, going for the $50 range UNTILL able to get the $220 Mitutoyo model I want. Thanks again. Cheers, A
From what I saw the $20 dollar amazon special seemed as consistent/accurate as the Mitutoyo. The cheapie had to deal with corrosion of the bearing too, but didn't seem to benefit from the excuses offered for the expensive Japanese model.
Except that you're forgetting that he had to rework it, tighten the jaws then loosen the slide rail to achieve this. You can expect that with any of the $20 specials, that you have to tweak their machining to be tighter fitting to eliminate jaw wobble.
@@stinkycheese804 No. I have a set with a stainless steel case instead of the black plastic that have 0 jaw wobble and no repeatability issues, out of the box.
for cheap ones what do you think of iGaging? I have one for like 3 years and no issues with it. Also have a few Starletts and they match up well after 3 years of use. No goofy readings. And only like 35.00. Not sure if thats the same in 2021 but the 2018 ones seemed a good bang for the buck.
Any bit of twist or angle you are imparting into the 1in standard is where the change in your measurement is coming from. It's not a factor on the flats of the jaws because they will self align the standard.
Observations: Currently Amazon Prime has the "China Crap" caliper for $12 and the Mitutoyo is @120 (1,000% more expensive.). You got 8 straight readings with the cheap caliper of 0.0000. You got 8 straight reading with the Mitutoyo caliper of 0.0000. The cheap caliper has a pivot pin hinge case. The Mitutoyo has a plastic flap hinge case. Ball bearing measurement was 0.374 with the cheap caliper. Ball bearing measurement was 0.3745 and you blame the ball bearing for the Mitutoyo caliper not reading 0.375. Gage block measurement was 0.9985/0.9995 with the two measurements you made with the cheap caliper but also don't forget the - 0.0005 reading when the jaws were closed (you forgot to re-zero after you banged it close twice). Also remember that it did not cross your mind to check where on the corroded gage block you measured. Gage block measurement with the Mitutoyo wias a lesson in denial. You spent more time trying to locate the perfect surface than you did measuring. Why did this not cross your mind with the cheap caliper? Bottom line: You ARE geeking out about the Mitutoyo and your bias shines through. And don't forget, you should not rely on any caliper for accurate measurement. That domain is for micrometers. PS: If you need a 12" digital caliper, the price is $28 vs $396 on Amazon Prime (1,414%, more expensive) for 0.0005" difference in accuracy. And let's not forget that gravity works equally well on all calipers.
All fair points, and thanks for your feedback. One thing not well captured in this video is real-world use. Since I shot this video, I've ultimately ended up placing these calipers in 3 different locations. The mitutoyo resides next to my 3-d printer in the house, the cheapie on my desk, and the igaging in my workshop. The batteries have died two more times on the cheapie, the case cracked at one of the hinges, and you now cant close it without two hands (I didn't drop it, it's just become really brittle). It loses it's zero every 20th or so time you slide it quickly. The force required to close the jaws to a consistent pressure at the workpiece is also inconsistent depending on where you are on the slide. The jaws rack side to side changing the measurement by .1mm if you're not measuring something with hard flat faces. Using them is like the equivalent of using a half -stripped phillips-head screwdriver that's someplace convenient. You have 3 nicer ones in your shop, but you're in the kitchen, and if you just push hard enough you can get by with this one without walking to the shop. That's what it feels like to use it, everytime. I need to just throw them out and at least buy another of the igaging or be less lazy and walk to my 3-d printer or my shop when I need calipers.
@@netmagi I, like you have many dial calipers. Several are Mitutoyo and Starrett, a few are Fowler, and I have couple dozen or so made in China or who knows where. They range from 6" to 36", the longer ones being vernier. I have 8 to 10 work station areas in which I use calipers as well as by my mills and lathe. I appreciate the buttery smoothness of the premium calipers but find that for day to day measurements it is more of a luxury than a necessity.If I were to replace all my calipers with Starrett I'd have more than $5,000 in calipers. If it were not for gravity and employees I might would consider it. Again, precision work (in my humble opinion) is the domain of micrometers. (Just as a reference, you can buy a 0-6" RDX Micrometer Set with Case with accuracy and repeatability of 0.0001" for about 1/3rd the price of a single Starrett 6" caliper.) For the average home hobbiest and most machine shops, they don't have the ability to hold tolerances to within + - 0.0005" anyway so their money is far better spent on other toys. I have a supplier for some parts we use in our products. He has a dedicated climate-controlled room that contains his granite measuring table system. He gave me the rundown several years ago about the fact that ilt is the 50,000,000 year old granite not the "unstable" 20,000,000 million year old stuff or something to that effect. I'm not sure of the measuring accuracy of his system but he says he routinely detects earthquakes and tremors hundreds of miles away and can measure the thickness of your fingerprint to several significant figures. So I am aware that there is need for extreme accuracy and repeatability. Regardless, I appreciate your review and it's good talking to you!
The mitutoyo are worth every penny , the cheapos kill batteries and are very inconsistent and also the cases aren't as durable as the mitutoyo , although the mitutoyo case looks basic it works consistently for years no problem with a case and caliper I used daily During field repair of pressure relief valves and never had an issue even during quarterly calibration they were always spot on , all of my calipers were required to be calibrated and nist traceable ... Try that with 20 dollar calipers 😂 you would find yourself spending many many hundreds over the years into the thousands or just buy one or two quality calipers and call it good .
@@netmagi How much effort does it take to open and close the Mitutoyo with the roller then the cheap HF model? I have a cheap HF model from 8 or 9 years ago and I've noticed that it has become stiff, making it harder to gently get a more accurate reading. I'm about tempted to toss the HF cheap digital caliper and get a mitutoyo....
It is not surface corrosion, it is you put part not perfectly perpendicular the the caliper jaws when you measure it in the thin portion of the jaws. There is different technique to get correct measurements on the thin portion of the jaws, and it does not matter if it is Mitutoyo or $20 Chinese caliper
I noticed that the battery compartment cover on the Mitutoyo is different than the flush fitting one on other examples. Could this be a re-design of the fragile tab issue of the said flush cover & if it could be used as replacement. Thanks for the review. Most helpful.
Hello , my battery on the more common cheap calipers has decent life span since locking the slide before switching the power off. The thing won't turn on with the slightest bump or touch anymore , or maybe it's my inexperienced imagination . Thanks
Great video! What is the advantage of having thumb wheels on the calipers? I guess it's nice to have for comfort but other than that I'd get the cheaper version without the wheel, which is about 40$ less.
It gives you significantly more motion control and tactile feedback. As you move the wheel you thumb travels about twice the amount for the same caliper jaw movement as it would without the thumbwheel.
Good comparison.Hello I'm Alexandar.My question is does it stay accurate and no bagging when it gets wet and oil digital scale.I have a digital caliper that when it gets dirty or little wet does not know what position it is.I think capacitive measure system. Would buy a digital caliper that doesn't have those issues.Tour recommendation some inductive, magnetic.Thanks
Thanks👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼. I think I’ll get an iGaging. My Horrible Freight calliper is “good enough” for what I need; but, it’s absolutely infuriating because I need to take multi measurements (3-6x) to verify my 1st measurement. It’s a battery suck, doesn’t hold Zero. If my life and work need critical measurement, I’ll pay for a MIT, no regret!
I've got the IGaging without the fractions. Do you know if the LED readout is suppose to be 'backlit? My is not and is hard to read. I can see the black numbers but wish they were backlit. Also, what should I treat the tool with to prevent corrosion?
If you kepp it out of salt water and acids, you should not have much of a corrosion issue since it is stainless and plastic. While a backlight would be nice for some uses, it would also consume, probably more than 5X the power to do so.
@@netmagi That number does appear here and there. I thought it could be a previous generation of the 50-196-30. Just ABSOLUTE Digimatic without that AOS (Advanced Onsite Sensor) technology. shop.mitutoyo.eu/pim/upload/mitutoyoData/image/bigweb/500-196-20_z_jpg.png shop.mitutoyo.eu/pim/upload/mitutoyoData/image/bigweb/500-196-30_z1_jpg.png shop.mitutoyo.eu/web/mitutoyo/en_RU/mitutoyo/01.03.05a/Digital%20ABS%20Caliper/$catalogue/mitutoyoData/PR/500-196-20/index.xhtml;jsessionid=3214418C5EA70E3ACA8FD7C547B851F2
@@netmagi Agree. That's why based on numerous positive reviews I have desided to order myself a Chinese replica of that model (without Mitutoyo logo) for just $19. ali.onl/1xsE I feel it's about time to retire my 14 year old Chinese cheapie like yours. (As I recall back then I've got it on eBay for just $11-12). Got sick and tired pulling battery out after every use. :)
A tool and die maker once told me not to store any caliper in the full closed position, as expansion and contraction of the instrument could distort the tool and give an inaccurate reading.
Makes sense for a micrometer since it would hold the tension on the anvils if closed fully. On a caliper, unless you've locked it with the thumbscrew, i would imagine it would be free to move with expansion and contraction.
I got one of those, and one thing that bothers me is the fitting in the depth gage, it fits really loose with about 1mm of play. Did you find the same on yours?
Yep, exactly like mine. Another issue i had was that the caliper came really dirty with a lot of grinding dust in the channel of the ruler. Their qc seems on or off, some seem fantastic others not so great.
I cringe when you touch the 1 inch calibration ring on its outer face. I had it drilled into me to NEVER touches the outer face with ones fingers. Our skin will leave corrosive material on the metal that will cause corrosion and affect the accuracy. We kept them oiled and in a soft cloth bag and only touched the sides. Thanks, for the review and information. Wish Mitutoyo would do fractions, but as they are made in a metric country, they don't seem to worry about what us dinosaurs use.
I don't use calipers every day so I didn't want to spend a ton of money on them. I picked up a cheap 12" calipers and they have been decent enough for the money. The action is smooth, repeatability good, but not so good on battery life. The cheap 6" calipers I picked up were not so good. The sliding action is poor. The two moving parts seem to grate against each other somewhat. The company selling the cheap calipers makes a difference. There are the good and the bad. It is a bit of a crap shoot as to what you may get. The 12" calipers are the ones I find myself using most often although they can be overkill when measuring small items.
The case for the Mitutoyo has always puzzled me. Before I knew what Mitutoyo was wrt to quality, I opened the case of one at work and assumed I was using a budget instrument. It conveys cheapness.
Their are 3 quotes that have held true for a long time, Buyer beware, You get what you pay for, If it seems to good to be true ... it probably is, So to answer your question ... With absolute certainty ...No, they are fakes. Save your money and wait and buy the real deal, they will hold up to the test of time. You will much happier in the long run, don't support people counterfeiting others quality products that the original company have spent the time and efforts perfecting "Their" product. P.s I own both real Mitutoyo and iGaging and I love my Mitutoyos but the iGaging are also very nice!
Really liked the video until your comments on the "Japanese way of thinking; use your damn calculator" part. Truly why would anybody use fractions that only go up to 1/128" for 'precise' measurements? It's really overdue we Americans switch over to metric. I remember in high school when we started to use metric for physics class and everything was so much easier. Now as an engineering student even in Tennessee there is no question on what system we use in classes and labs. If you ask even our own citizens what's larger, 3/5 or 5/8, 90% of the population will guess or take a long time to figure it out. Thank you for the video still, I learned a fair bit from it and this will affect what calipers I buy, but maybe it's time you started thinking like the Japanese :)
David B prefer metric myself as well, but I’ve inherited a few thousand drills, taps, dies, reamers, etc. from family so stuck with fractions for the foreseeable future. I do use metric for all my 3d design and printing work.
"Why would anybody use 128ths for precision". Well, you wouldn't. You'd use 64ths max for woodworking. Because that's beyond what your tools are capable of, regardless of measurement system. You'd use thousandths for garden variety machining, because that's what your tools are capable of. That would build you automobiles and airplanes. Like we've been doing, more of and better than anyone, for the last century or so. I'd say 128ths are at the limit or beyond what any caliper is reliable at. For a higher bracket of accuracy, we flip over to .001's and use mics and dial indicators. That's about 1/40 of your m&m's. The machine, nor the operator doesn't get more accurate just because they've changed measuring schemes. Really, the whole "You should all switch metric" nonsense got old decades ago. America does just fine with inches. If you're more comfortable in metric, then go metric. The rest of the machining world doesn't have to change over just because you have difficulty with fractions. Thanks - Lumpy
God gave you 10 fingers to count with, unless your a Brit, he gave them a King who apparently had 12 fingers. The metric system is far far better. I'm a retired engineer who has worked over seas and used both systems. The fact is most of the machining world uses metric.
@@retirednobaddays456 Every American engineer and machinist and mechanic I know can convert easily to and from imperial to metric. It's a shame you "rest of the world's" can't. Thanks - Lumpy
@@DrLumpyDMus I hate the fraction function on calipers because in the real world nobody is working to 128 ths and the damned things with throw a 1/128 based fraction if you a a few thou greater or less than the useful fractions of 64ths 32nds 16ths etc. anyone doing close work will be working to 1/1000 ths inch or 1/100 ths mm.
That terrible plastic case for your meat-a-toe-yo calipers will be chilling in the ocean or landfill when your dead and gone. Case is fine. It’s not polished walnut no. Most who own this metrology instruments use them constantly making a living like big boys. Keep em in a designated spot near a machine or hung up. Point is if they had to snap the box open every time they used them they’d waste 30 min a day just being a dork face. Time is money in the machine tool world takes on another level of the phrase.
You are trying to pretend that nobody should own a tool unless they use it all day, every day? Seems pretty ridiculous, and I bet you own many tools which don't fall under this regimen. You can't leave all your tools laying out, then you have no work space and instead a mess.
There is also an old saying - a poor workman blames his tools. Stradivarius made amazingly accurate violins from wood around 1700, now worth millions of pounds. He never heard of digital caliper gauge. The same as 18th century German clock makers producing masterpieces working in metal. Wonder how they coped?
I had a high end caliper once where I changed battery after 7-8 years the first time, just the small SR44 size. Got a couple of cheap ones that is fixed to my lathe, where I usually take the batteries out of them every time not to run flat after some few days/weeks. Sadly that good caliper I owned did had the Mitutoyo style battery cover that so easily gets ruined. The cheap calipers on my lathe got the same battery cover style too, and those covers are naturally broken and gone long time, but I manage to keep the batteries in place anyway as the calipers are stationary more or less) I went for the Igaging caliper as my new caliper for ordinary 'hand held' operation, mainly because of the fine battery cover solution, and large battery. Seems good value for money.
Can’t take anymore.!.!.... weirdo OCD and c’mon with the “meat-a-toe-ya” hooked on phonics bro. It’s like a easier way of saying Mitsubishi. LOL oh oh.... and my favorite. When putting his micrometer away trying to figure out how much to close his mic. Settles on 75 thou finally.
After watching endless reviews on calipers, THIS is by far the most informative and the best yet. Other review videos greet you with a non-human, robot voice, that simply read off factory stated specs. They are not reliable and are useless. This was a refreshing change, thank you.
Glad you found it valuable, thx. I wish youtube could crack down on the weird robot videos.
People should beware of the knock off Mitutoyo 500-196-30 Digital Calipers being sold on ebay. The ones that are fake have the small 5th digit on the inch scale. The authentic Mitutoyo all have full size numbers. Thanks for the thorough review. The Igaging 100-700-33-B are mighty tempting.
Very useful video, as an engineering student it seems like the igaging is at that perfect middle ground where I feel like I am not just buying one for an assingment. It will be good enough for the next few years, and if I need something better, then the Mitotoyo will be what I need. Thank you
Thanks for helping me in choosing of the caliper. Bought Mitutoyo.
Thanks for taking the time to make this review.
In the Machinest trade school I attend we were issued alot of Machinest tools.. (tools of the trade)...
And those include a set of Dial calipers as well as 0-1" O.D. Mic's. And some other tool as well. Like tool boxes . And finger indicators and center gages etc.etc....
And by in large in six months so far that I've been attending the Basic Machinest course.
More than half of us have struggled with our cheap 30$ Chinese made Fowler dial calipers.
I ended up getting a gift from a retired Machinest a set of NSK dial calipers. And they've been phenomenal m I've used them for the past four months. Consistently with good results. The flowers broke within the first 8 weeks of school.. as well as other students.
.one of my fellow students ended up getting a set of 8" Mitutoyo digital calipers about 270$. But he's pretty happy with them.
Hi bro, I really like your videos. What is your opinion on calipers without thumb wheel, I saw some Mitutoyo models without it... Does it have a particular field where it's used or if it is just a preference? Thank you
Thx! For me, without them it's really for very "rough" measurements. The thumbwheel is what allows you to put repeated and consistent light pressure on the object under measurement with the jaws. Without it, or without ones that are smooth, you won't be consistent and measurements won't be as accurate as they could be/should be.
@@netmagi Got my Mitutoyo today, same as yours, it's worth the money. Beautiful tool. :D Yea, that's what I thought about the thumbwheele, it's kinda easier to put same measuring force each time.
As an FYI, I have a Chinesium full stainless steel (including housing, all silver colour with a silver plastic battery door) that set me back $12 shipped from China. Equivalents on Amazon are ~$25. Moves smoothly, perfectly repeatable with no slop in the jaws, and no visible inaccuracy with several standards. Sometimes needs to be zeroed after lying in the box for an extended period (months). The action is not as satisfying as on an original Mitutoyo, but not rough in any way. If you don't buy the absolutely cheapest ones like shown here with a plastic black housing, you have a good chance of getting something that works flawlessly with no modification. Mitutoyo used to cost a lot because they had the patent on capacitive sensing. It is now expired, and the cost to make something comparable in terms of functionality is not high. Mitutoyo still cost the same because they're exploiting their brand and prejudice against Chinesium products, plus have a more pleasant fit/finish/feel and pros have no problem spending the money on a tool they'll use daily. If you're not a pro - and chances are you're not if you're watching this - unless you have spare money and like to have "nice" tools even if you only use them occasionally, a good Chinesium one will do very nicely and you won't sweat over getting it dirty or dropping it.
Thank you for the video! I also own a Mitutoyo and ordered Terma for myself ... I feel sorry for the Japanese :) - I use it to check the rest of the calipers ....
I battled the decision between igauging and another brand called Insize, around the same price range. I was not gonna spend a fortune or buy another cheap piece of junk that might quit in a month or less. I got the insize, mainly due to the fact they were NIST certified tested and calibrated to strict standards, they came with a certificate test sheet. I'm happy about my choice, it doesn't have fractions, but there's calculators for that. It's very smooth action, zeros out everytime the jaws close and accurate as daylight unless you get a speck of dirt in the jaws, so i clean them often. I measured a cat hair from my cat, he didn't mind it... some cat hairs may differ. The hair was 0.0002 of an inch everytime I took the measurement. It takes the 3.0 volt CR2032 battery with capable PC hookup, "which is another reason I got them" not those tiny 1.5 volt 44's that don't last. I do not regret the decision, some saying they're as good as mitutoyo's???... I sure hope so.
Would love to have a pair to test. Just spent ~20 mins looking around on their site. Here's what I found: US-based co. importing from Asia (probably to their own spec). They 'turn-on' with movement, so they are probably the type that eats batteries, but with a larger battery that I'm sure lasts longer than the $20 ones. The do offer NIST on some units, but not their cheaper ones. The ones with NIST-certification appear to be on par price-wise with Mitutoyo. They DO disclose in the downloadable catalog on their site which ones actually have NIST certification/traceability.
@@netmagi the mitutoyo's I looked at were $100 bucks or more depending on the model. The Insize model# 1108-150 I purchased on Amazon were $46 and change. I don't know the real world comparison between the two, but the price range was sure different. For $46 bucks offering certification I didn't think I could go wrong. Pick you up a pair if you got the spare cash, well worth checking out for a comparison video... I'd watch it for sure.
Pretty good comparison of the 3 calipers and mostly correct but not complete assessment. I should mention that I do have 4 Calipers, the Chinese cheapo, 2 iGaging Calipers (100 700 06 and the 100 700 33) and a Mitutoyo (500 196 30). Both my iGaging calipers are as accurate as the Mitutoyo for almost 65% less money. They all operate very smoothly although I had to clean the iGaging calipers with Isopropyl alcohol to get the smoothness as with the Mitutoyo.
The 33 iGaging does have the fractional not offered with the Mitutoyo , but both iGaging calipers have a SPC/USB data output that is compatible with the Mitutoyo hardware/software or visa versa. a SPC/USB is available on Mitutoyo model #500-170-30 and 500-171-30.
Bottom line is that both iGaging calipers are comparable to the Mitutoyo dollar for dollar but to say that the roller is not as good is debatable. Personally I have no complaints of the iGaging or Mitutoyo calipers, they all work and work very well. The Chinese cheapo I will leave as is. It is what it is. In a nutshell IMO the iGaging and Mitutoyo are the best there is and I will say that the other top Cadillac brands (expensive brands) are built in China as well and only assembled in the USA. Not like they use to be. Hope this helps.
I think quality control on the iGaging ones just isn't quite as good. I don't doubt yours are smooth, but mine sticks and jams a bit. Would it stop me from buying another or recommending? No, but I wouldn't expect that issue from a Mitutoyo product either. I do agree though that dollar for dollar, the iGaging is a better buy.
Good afternoon, thank you very much for a very detailed review and very thorough tests with repeated measurements. I myself have been using Mitutoyo calipers for 10 years. The Diamond Master model. You can see it on my channel. Mitutoyo do excellent things. Indeed, as a piece of jewelry. Thank you very much, good day and good luck
Mitutoyo sells a caliper that does inches in .001 and inch fractions down to 1/128 (but it is a vernier caliper, not a digital one).
Nice vid. Haven't seen a micrometer in years. I actually use one now(given to me from uncle whole was engineer) aa been using all this time, but tired of it; so looking at digital calipers. Found vid interesting aa great. Can't afford the Mitutoyo right now. Was thinking of a cheaper $20 model, but after this vid, going for the $50 range UNTILL able to get the $220 Mitutoyo model I want. Thanks again. Cheers, A
Glad to hear it. The iGaging is a nice bit of kit for the money
From what I saw the $20 dollar amazon special seemed as consistent/accurate as the Mitutoyo. The cheapie had to deal with corrosion of the bearing too, but didn't seem to benefit from the excuses offered for the expensive Japanese model.
Except that you're forgetting that he had to rework it, tighten the jaws then loosen the slide rail to achieve this. You can expect that with any of the $20 specials, that you have to tweak their machining to be tighter fitting to eliminate jaw wobble.
@@stinkycheese804 No. I have a set with a stainless steel case instead of the black plastic that have 0 jaw wobble and no repeatability issues, out of the box.
for cheap ones what do you think of iGaging? I have one for like 3 years and no issues with it. Also have a few Starletts and they match up well after 3 years of use. No goofy readings. And only like 35.00. Not sure if thats the same in 2021 but the 2018 ones seemed a good bang for the buck.
Any bit of twist or angle you are imparting into the 1in standard is where the change in your measurement is coming from. It's not a factor on the flats of the jaws because they will self align the standard.
Observations:
Currently Amazon Prime has the "China Crap" caliper for $12 and the Mitutoyo is @120 (1,000% more expensive.).
You got 8 straight readings with the cheap caliper of 0.0000.
You got 8 straight reading with the Mitutoyo caliper of 0.0000.
The cheap caliper has a pivot pin hinge case.
The Mitutoyo has a plastic flap hinge case.
Ball bearing measurement was 0.374 with the cheap caliper.
Ball bearing measurement was 0.3745 and you blame the ball bearing for the Mitutoyo caliper not reading 0.375.
Gage block measurement was 0.9985/0.9995 with the two measurements you made with the cheap caliper but also don't forget the - 0.0005 reading when the jaws were closed (you forgot to re-zero after you banged it close twice). Also remember that it did not cross your mind to check where on the corroded gage block you measured.
Gage block measurement with the Mitutoyo wias a lesson in denial. You spent more time trying to locate the perfect surface than you did measuring. Why did this not cross your mind with the cheap caliper?
Bottom line: You ARE geeking out about the Mitutoyo and your bias shines through. And don't forget, you should not rely on any caliper for accurate measurement. That domain is for micrometers.
PS: If you need a 12" digital caliper, the price is $28 vs $396 on Amazon Prime (1,414%, more expensive) for 0.0005" difference in accuracy. And let's not forget that gravity works equally well on all calipers.
All fair points, and thanks for your feedback. One thing not well captured in this video is real-world use. Since I shot this video, I've ultimately ended up placing these calipers in 3 different locations. The mitutoyo resides next to my 3-d printer in the house, the cheapie on my desk, and the igaging in my workshop. The batteries have died two more times on the cheapie, the case cracked at one of the hinges, and you now cant close it without two hands (I didn't drop it, it's just become really brittle). It loses it's zero every 20th or so time you slide it quickly. The force required to close the jaws to a consistent pressure at the workpiece is also inconsistent depending on where you are on the slide. The jaws rack side to side changing the measurement by .1mm if you're not measuring something with hard flat faces. Using them is like the equivalent of using a half -stripped phillips-head screwdriver that's someplace convenient. You have 3 nicer ones in your shop, but you're in the kitchen, and if you just push hard enough you can get by with this one without walking to the shop. That's what it feels like to use it, everytime. I need to just throw them out and at least buy another of the igaging or be less lazy and walk to my 3-d printer or my shop when I need calipers.
@@netmagi I, like you have many dial calipers. Several are Mitutoyo and Starrett, a few are Fowler, and I have couple dozen or so made in China or who knows where. They range from 6" to 36", the longer ones being vernier. I have 8 to 10 work station areas in which I use calipers as well as by my mills and lathe.
I appreciate the buttery smoothness of the premium calipers but find that for day to day measurements it is more of a luxury than a necessity.If I were to replace all my calipers with Starrett I'd have more than $5,000 in calipers. If it were not for gravity and employees I might would consider it.
Again, precision work (in my humble opinion) is the domain of micrometers. (Just as a reference, you can buy a 0-6" RDX Micrometer Set with Case with accuracy and repeatability of 0.0001" for about 1/3rd the price of a single Starrett 6" caliper.)
For the average home hobbiest and most machine shops, they don't have the ability to hold tolerances to within + - 0.0005" anyway so their money is far better spent on other toys.
I have a supplier for some parts we use in our products. He has a dedicated climate-controlled room that contains his granite measuring table system. He gave me the rundown several years ago about the fact that ilt is the 50,000,000 year old granite not the "unstable" 20,000,000 million year old stuff or something to that effect. I'm not sure of the measuring accuracy of his system but he says he routinely detects earthquakes and tremors hundreds of miles away and can measure the thickness of your fingerprint to several significant figures. So I am aware that there is need for extreme accuracy and repeatability.
Regardless, I appreciate your review and it's good talking to you!
@@abrahamlincoln5283thanks for your reply.
The mitutoyo are worth every penny , the cheapos kill batteries and are very inconsistent and also the cases aren't as durable as the mitutoyo , although the mitutoyo case looks basic it works consistently for years no problem with a case and caliper I used daily During field repair of pressure relief valves and never had an issue even during quarterly calibration they were always spot on , all of my calipers were required to be calibrated and nist traceable ... Try that with 20 dollar calipers 😂 you would find yourself spending many many hundreds over the years into the thousands or just buy one or two quality calipers and call it good .
@@netmagi
How much effort does it take to open and close the Mitutoyo with the roller then the cheap HF model? I have a cheap HF model from 8 or 9 years ago and I've noticed that it has become stiff, making it harder to gently get a more accurate reading. I'm about tempted to toss the HF cheap digital caliper and get a mitutoyo....
It is not surface corrosion, it is you put part not perfectly perpendicular the the caliper jaws when you measure it in the thin portion of the jaws. There is different technique to get correct measurements on the thin portion of the jaws, and it does not matter if it is Mitutoyo or $20 Chinese caliper
I noticed that the battery compartment cover on the Mitutoyo is different than the flush fitting one on other examples. Could this be a re-design of the fragile tab issue of the said flush cover & if it could be used as replacement. Thanks for the review. Most helpful.
Is that mitu coolant proof ?
If not which other brand is ???
Hello , my battery on the more common cheap calipers has decent life span since locking the slide before switching the power off. The thing won't turn on with the slightest bump or touch anymore , or maybe it's my inexperienced imagination . Thanks
Great video! What is the advantage of having thumb wheels on the calipers? I guess it's nice to have for comfort but other than that I'd get the cheaper version without the wheel, which is about 40$ less.
makes it much easier to get consistent pressure on what you're measuring
It gives you significantly more motion control and tactile feedback. As you move the wheel you thumb travels about twice the amount for the same caliper jaw movement as it would without the thumbwheel.
Good comparison.Hello I'm Alexandar.My question is does it stay accurate and no bagging when it gets wet and oil digital scale.I have a digital caliper that when it gets dirty or little wet does not know what position it is.I think capacitive measure system.
Would buy a digital caliper that doesn't have those issues.Tour recommendation some inductive, magnetic.Thanks
I would recommend the Mitutoyo coolant-proof ones: amzn.to/2xrTNax
@@netmagi Thank you for your support
Thanks👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼. I think I’ll get an iGaging. My Horrible Freight calliper is “good enough” for what I need; but, it’s absolutely infuriating because I need to take multi measurements (3-6x) to verify my 1st measurement. It’s a battery suck, doesn’t hold Zero.
If my life and work need critical measurement, I’ll pay for a MIT, no regret!
For the money, you can't beat the iGaging.
No Name Mitutoyo replicas from the Ali Express might be even better.
@@IliyaOsnovikov link pls
I've got the IGaging without the fractions.
Do you know if the LED readout is suppose to be 'backlit?
My is not and is hard to read. I can see the black numbers but wish they were backlit.
Also, what should I treat the tool with to prevent corrosion?
Fairly certain it's NOT backlit. Very light coat of mineral oil on the parts you touch. Keep it off the inside of the slide.
Thank you.
If you kepp it out of salt water and acids, you should not have much of a corrosion issue since it is stainless and plastic. While a backlight would be nice for some uses, it would also consume, probably more than 5X the power to do so.
Thanks for the review. Do you know what's the difference between 500-196-30 and 500-196-20 models?
There is no '500-196-20' model.
@@netmagi That number does appear here and there. I thought it could be a previous generation of the 50-196-30. Just ABSOLUTE Digimatic without that AOS (Advanced Onsite Sensor) technology.
shop.mitutoyo.eu/pim/upload/mitutoyoData/image/bigweb/500-196-20_z_jpg.png
shop.mitutoyo.eu/pim/upload/mitutoyoData/image/bigweb/500-196-30_z1_jpg.png
shop.mitutoyo.eu/web/mitutoyo/en_RU/mitutoyo/01.03.05a/Digital%20ABS%20Caliper/$catalogue/mitutoyoData/PR/500-196-20/index.xhtml;jsessionid=3214418C5EA70E3ACA8FD7C547B851F2
@@IliyaOsnovikov may also just be a 'fake'. If I was holding one in my hand and it looked genuine I'd go for it, otherwise I'd be wary
@@netmagi Agree. That's why based on numerous positive reviews I have desided to order myself a Chinese replica of that model (without Mitutoyo logo) for just $19. ali.onl/1xsE I feel it's about time to retire my 14 year old Chinese cheapie like yours. (As I recall back then I've got it on eBay for just $11-12). Got sick and tired pulling battery out after every use. :)
I modded my 20$ one with a mechanical on/off switch. 1/50th is way over close enough for me:)
I gaging has another model that doesn't have the data port, EZCAL. It's a good bit cheaper.
A tool and die maker once told me not to store any caliper in the full closed position, as expansion and contraction of the instrument could distort the tool and give an inaccurate reading.
Makes sense for a micrometer since it would hold the tension on the anvils if closed fully. On a caliper, unless you've locked it with the thumbscrew, i would imagine it would be free to move with expansion and contraction.
Good review. Thanks.
I got one of those, and one thing that bothers me is the fitting in the depth gage, it fits really loose with about 1mm of play.
Did you find the same on yours?
The channel for the slide is about 1mm wider than the slide itself, but seems to stay in place once the thumbscrew is tightened.
Yep, exactly like mine.
Another issue i had was that the caliper came really dirty with a lot of grinding dust in the channel of the ruler.
Their qc seems on or off, some seem fantastic others not so great.
Telmo Brandao beware of knock-offs. Watch EVO vid on the diff between the two
THANKS FOR SHARING
I cringe when you touch the 1 inch calibration ring on its outer face. I had it drilled into me to NEVER touches the outer face with ones fingers. Our skin will leave corrosive material on the metal that will cause corrosion and affect the accuracy. We kept them oiled and in a soft cloth bag and only touched the sides. Thanks, for the review and information. Wish Mitutoyo would do fractions, but as they are made in a metric country, they don't seem to worry about what us dinosaurs use.
Sheer coincidence - I also own the Mitutoyo and iGaging. The latter solely for fractional values. FWIW, my iGaging is consistently off by 1.5 thou.
I hear you. I have the low priced Adoric. Consistently off by a thousandth, sometimes high, sometimes low. I bought a Mitutoyo.
I don't use calipers every day so I didn't want to spend a ton of money on them. I picked up a cheap 12" calipers and they have been decent enough for the money. The action is smooth, repeatability good, but not so good on battery life. The cheap 6" calipers I picked up were not so good. The sliding action is poor. The two moving parts seem to grate against each other somewhat. The company selling the cheap calipers makes a difference. There are the good and the bad. It is a bit of a crap shoot as to what you may get. The 12" calipers are the ones I find myself using most often although they can be overkill when measuring small items.
The case for the Mitutoyo has always puzzled me. Before I knew what Mitutoyo was wrt to quality, I opened the case of one at work and assumed I was using a budget instrument. It conveys cheapness.
It's not the case, it's the metal finishing that makes or breaks it. The case/electronics are only a measurement of how the metal fits together.
Very helpful. Do you happen to know if the "genuine" Mitutoyos I see on eBay for $40 are actually genuine?
Not really sure but I highly doubt it for $40. If its too good to be true it probably is. $80-100 would be more believable.
netmagi Thanks! I think I will play it safe and stick with the iGaging.
Their are 3 quotes that have held true for a long time, Buyer beware, You get what you pay for, If it seems to good to be true ... it probably is, So to answer your question ... With absolute certainty ...No, they are fakes. Save your money and wait and buy the real deal, they will hold up to the test of time. You will much happier in the long run, don't support people counterfeiting others quality products that the original company have spent the time and efforts perfecting "Their" product. P.s I own both real Mitutoyo and iGaging and I love my Mitutoyos but the iGaging are also very nice!
Really liked the video until your comments on the "Japanese way of thinking; use your damn calculator" part. Truly why would anybody use fractions that only go up to 1/128" for 'precise' measurements? It's really overdue we Americans switch over to metric. I remember in high school when we started to use metric for physics class and everything was so much easier. Now as an engineering student even in Tennessee there is no question on what system we use in classes and labs. If you ask even our own citizens what's larger, 3/5 or 5/8, 90% of the population will guess or take a long time to figure it out.
Thank you for the video still, I learned a fair bit from it and this will affect what calipers I buy, but maybe it's time you started thinking like the Japanese :)
David B prefer metric myself as well, but I’ve inherited a few thousand drills, taps, dies, reamers, etc. from family so stuck with fractions for the foreseeable future. I do use metric for all my 3d design and printing work.
"Why would anybody use 128ths for precision". Well, you wouldn't. You'd use 64ths max for woodworking. Because that's beyond what your tools are capable of, regardless of measurement system. You'd use thousandths for garden variety machining, because that's what your tools are capable of. That would build you automobiles and airplanes. Like we've been doing, more of and better than anyone, for the last century or so. I'd say 128ths are at the limit or beyond what any caliper is reliable at. For a higher bracket of accuracy, we flip over to .001's and use mics and dial indicators. That's about 1/40 of your m&m's. The machine, nor the operator doesn't get more accurate just because they've changed measuring schemes.
Really, the whole "You should all switch metric" nonsense got old decades ago. America does just fine with inches. If you're more comfortable in metric, then go metric. The rest of the machining world doesn't have to change over just because you have difficulty with fractions.
Thanks - Lumpy
God gave you 10 fingers to count with, unless your a Brit, he gave them a King who apparently had 12 fingers. The metric system is far far better. I'm a retired engineer who has worked over seas and used both systems. The fact is most of the machining world uses metric.
@@retirednobaddays456 Every American engineer and machinist and mechanic I know can convert easily to and from imperial to metric. It's a shame you "rest of the world's" can't. Thanks - Lumpy
@@DrLumpyDMus I hate the fraction function on calipers because in the real world nobody is working to 128 ths and the damned things with throw a 1/128 based fraction if you a a few thou greater or less than the useful fractions of 64ths 32nds 16ths etc. anyone doing close work will be working to 1/1000 ths inch or 1/100 ths mm.
I got a set of bootleg Mitutoyo, it's probably as good as the iGaging, it was about $45-50 or so
It's a mechanical digit micrometer.
That terrible plastic case for your meat-a-toe-yo calipers will be chilling in the ocean or landfill when your dead and gone. Case is fine. It’s not polished walnut no. Most who own this metrology instruments use them constantly making a living like big boys. Keep em in a designated spot near a machine or hung up. Point is if they had to snap the box open every time they used them they’d waste 30 min a day just being a dork face. Time is money in the machine tool world takes on another level of the phrase.
You are trying to pretend that nobody should own a tool unless they use it all day, every day? Seems pretty ridiculous, and I bet you own many tools which don't fall under this regimen. You can't leave all your tools laying out, then you have no work space and instead a mess.
thank you, you have ghosts in your house!
lol, as someone else suggested, I need to filter out low freq's when I record to get rid of the 'herd of elephants' above me :)
well.. you know what they say.. poor tool for poor job. ok tool for ok job. the best tool for the best job. it is always like that!
There is also an old saying - a poor workman blames his tools. Stradivarius made amazingly accurate violins from wood around 1700, now worth millions of pounds. He never heard of digital caliper gauge. The same as 18th century German clock makers producing masterpieces working in metal. Wonder how they coped?
Analog Display not Digital.
Chuck a low pass filter on your audio. Sounds like someones stomping around :)
At what corner frequency? I'm sure a high-pass would be more beneficial.
@@JamesBaber sorry typo there high pass :) it's a fairly low rumble I'd at around 80hz down. Great video by the way.
Thx. Ill do that on my next one when ppl are walking around above me (shot in basement)
Digit not digital.
The reason the battery is always in use is it "remembers" absolute zero.
thanks, that makes sense
doesn't explain why the good ones draws less than 1/10 of current when off compared to the cheap ones..
I had a high end caliper once where I changed battery after 7-8 years the first time, just the small SR44 size. Got a couple of cheap ones that is fixed to my lathe, where I usually take the batteries out of them every time not to run flat after some few days/weeks. Sadly that good caliper I owned did had the Mitutoyo style battery cover that so easily gets ruined. The cheap calipers on my lathe got the same battery cover style too, and those covers are naturally broken and gone long time, but I manage to keep the batteries in place anyway as the calipers are stationary more or less) I went for the Igaging caliper as my new caliper for ordinary 'hand held' operation, mainly because of the fine battery cover solution, and large battery. Seems good value for money.
...just screw in a hinge... before it breaks ...
Fractions are sooo 1963.
Can’t take anymore.!.!.... weirdo OCD and c’mon with the “meat-a-toe-ya” hooked on phonics bro. It’s like a easier way of saying Mitsubishi. LOL
oh oh.... and my favorite. When putting his micrometer away trying to figure out how much to close his mic. Settles on 75 thou finally.
the struggle is real.
Maybe get up and go outside for some fresh air if it gets to be too much to handle? lol. #firstworldproblems