How to: PSA M16A1 Barrel on a Vintage 1970’s Colt Upper
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- Опубликовано: 18 сен 2024
- In 1964, the United States Army and United States Air Force adopted the M16 to replace the M14 battle rifle. The M16 has a vast history; it first served with U.S. troops in Vietnam and saw action with other allied and NATO forces globally. Adversaries used the M16 as well, when captured. The M16A1 was an improved M16, and the M16A2 was an improvement from that. The M4 and M4A1 were carbines that spawned from the M16 and had seen action during close quarters combat in Iraq and Afghanistan. Today, 58 years later, the U.S. has adopted the Sig XM5 and has started phasing out the M4 and M16A2.
For a span of around 60 years, the M16 and its variants have had a long history of serving with many nations to include the Canada, Malaysia, Israel, South Korea, South Vietnam, the U.S. and many many more. It's sad to see a historic relic not in it's original form like this and the next step is to get it range ready.
In this video, Ben Wallace from MB Defense Solutions shows us his method of how to properly put on a M16A1 Barrel. We used a Harrington & Richardson retro M16A1 barrel produced by Palmetto State Armory. This included the A post front sight right from the factory.
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All weapons portrayed in this video were handled in a safe manner. AI rendered Pictures may have been used to better depict historical figures, places and events. Multiple safety precautions were in place before, during and after filming. Seek out weapons familiarization training before handling any weapon. Collectibles and antiques are known as alternative assets in the financial world. We are not financial advisors nor do we give legal financial advice, please talk to your CPA. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Information contained in the content is based from personal experience, opinion, or available on the internet. Gun enthusiasts should read the owners manual and consult a firearms expert to fully understand the weapon. These historical relics and products commonly available in stores all across the United States. Our videos are for entertainment purposes.
That's what I call fun.
Man i wish i lived in a free state.
depending on the communist state you live in and their restrictions , these are doable with mods but some states not possible 😪 I'm in nj so lop the bayonet lugs and pin a brake on you are good to go if doing a carbine retro need a pin in the stock .
I wish your state was free.
@@Droodog127all gun laws are infringement DISOBEY just do it quietly and dont get caught :)
@@Droodog127all infringements!
I use cv joint grease for the bolt carrier where it rides in the upper receiver. Same for charging handle. Much smoother than any oil. Everything else gets 5w30 mobil one.
I’m about to bite the bullet on building a m16a1 parts kit. Where is the best place to buy the parts kit?
What-a-country
Assembly is fine. True test is firing it to make sure you have enough gas that cycles through to function. Now to really lube the rifle before firing. First is to put a drop of oil into the gas carrier key the thing on top that catches the gas tube thingy, then a few drops into the side of the vent holes that goes into the gas expansion chamber. Once you fire your first round the oil will go all inside the upper receiver to properly lube your M16 or AR-15. Honestly don't use Break Free CLP!!! That shit is garbage!!! Use FP-10 by Shooters Choice, this is pure lubricant like motor oil 10-30 WT which is recommended during the Vietnam Era which worked. Break Free CLP causes carbon build up which can build up in front of the bolt carrier and bolt head which will cause the bolt not to close in battery. Using the forward assist to close the bolt will result in blowing up because the carrier and bolt didn't lock up properly. Using a lubricant that doesn't turn to carbon is easier to clean and wipe when you see your rifle fail to go into battery. FP-10 never failed me in Iraq, my M2 Ma Deuce, M240s, and SAWs kept running even with dust in in them. I told my gunners clean them well and lubricate them well. Weapons will fail without lubrication no matter what environment you are in especially combat conditions.
Nice Job Ben 😀😊😎
One question when your soul is frightful you do a headspace to make sure it's active safety fire thank you for the video
I always do a little more than the min torque requirement.
This may be a stupid question but how do you make sure the FSB is properly aligned?
I had a gunsmith do it
I have had a damaged upper even with the right block and vise. It was an expensive lesson to learn that sometimes it's better to have a real armorer do the work that knows what they are doing. Also the pitting, scratches, and possibly bent sections on the surplus parts make it a crapshoot. I want mine looking brand spanking new like they were when issued and when being used in the war, not how they look 60 years later with no anodizing left and after being beat to heck and slammed around in a parts bin for decades. Unless you actually want one beat to heck. Some like that. I think it looks horrible. To each his own.
Right on! PSA has the M16 clones under the H&R brand on their site, all kinds and good to go out of the box. I was thinking of getting a newer one, or maybe just one of the carbines
The PSA/H&R rifles and uppers sell out quick and are gone for many weeks at a time. The notification doesn't work all that great on PSAs website so it's best to check every day till they get in stock what you're looking for. If what you get isn't absolutely perfect you can get it replaced easily, no problem. PSA is fantastic when it comes to standing by their customers. Very quick replacement time. They are awesome.
My question pertains to the two blocks. You here about index pin breaks. Im only going to do muzzle device can the barrel move when doing so you want that stationary and the bev block be better?
Yeah, I swapped barrels on one of those guns assembled by King Kong! I didn't know their reputation prior to...it made for interesting conversation. Did you check headspace?
?? I believe this guy has it backwards. Bev Block = Muzzle Work & White Receive Vise = Barrel Nut. Index Pin doesn't rotate with barrel installation it's only drawn rearwards with clamping force. Muzzle brake or comp install will spin the barrel hence engaging the barrel extension with the bev block. Don't use a receiver clamp for muzzle work LOL
What wrench did you use for the barrel nut?
I think I got it from Numrich
Anyone else catch the Bioshock tattooos?
Little Easter egg 😎
I bet his girl calls him Big Daddy
@@thedeathwobblechannel6539 HA, good one lol
واو
No wonder there so many crap AR rifles on the market, following advice like this..All of the stress is still in the front take down stud..The small sail on the Bev block is not a tight fit in the upper and it still allows the upper to turn and put stress on the front take down pin....Installing the carrier on the O ring does absolutely nothing..I repeat, it does absolutely nothing..The carrier just spins around on it..Use an action rod with a sail ( Midwest Industries) that is a snug fit in the upper and spreads the stress in the uppers charging handle channel while preventing the barrel from clocking..Don't use antiseize as it doesn't prevent galvanic corrosion or give a proper torque..Use Aero shell 64 or 33 as required by the TDP..Colt factory uses Dupont molykote..If the notch is 1/2 way to alignment then torque all the way..If only 3/4 then loosen/ tighten the nut until the threads are seasoned enough to allow proper alignment with the gas tube..When doing a safety check you use your thumb and slowly roll it to test the fire control group..
Question: Does the delta ring spring weaken causing play to the handguard tension, mine will move about 1/16" back and forth?
@@Allenmar73 Sounds more like a fitment issue between the hand guard and delta ring than a weak spring..
you insult a vintage colt with that crap part barrel