can't believe i just stumbled on these. I've been very aware of the dayton sealed versions for a long time but prefer the deep low sound of ported...however I move around alot so small size of these paired with the low end of the passive radiators is a no brainer! I think this might be my next sub (18 inch ver though)
Thanks for watching Barrett!! It was a lot of fun to put together, the nice thing is it's quite a bit smaller than my other DIY subs so it's much easier to move around :)
Love the vid. Consider reaching out to GSG Audio and see if they'll send you out one of their full Marty 21" sub enclosures. Pair it with the 21" Kraken home theater sub from Parts Express. I'd love to see an in depth review of this combination and I'm guessing the vid/review would get lots of views. Keep up the great content. 👍
Right now, this kit is $700 on PE. Orginally I was going to buy a Ultimax 15" Sealed sub kit ($355) from PE and a Crown XLS bridged with 1100W for it. Now I see this and wonder if this kit featured is worth double the price.
I don't have first hand experience with Ultimax Kit, but my guess is it will have slightly tighter bass with less output compared to this kit. I really like this sub especially for movies. I will more than likely buy another one because I have an extra channel on my QSC amp I can use to power it. I do think $700 is too much but if it goes on sale for around $500 this sub will be hard to beat. Thanks for watching!
A sealed enclosure would give you better low end. The best design for this driver is a tapped horn or a front folded horn like the THT and those enclosures can give really deep low end
A sealed box has a softer roll off but the tuning frequency is way higher for the same volume. Sealed boxes excel at transient response if not critically damped, but are hardly chosen if bass extension is your goal.
@@artificialmonkeypoo If properly designed with a slightly bigger dimension a sealed enclosure will give better extension and to get the same group delay in a ported box is not so easy. Ported will give more output near the tuning freq but a good sealed will be far far better wrt quality bass. BTW, this driver is better suited for a horn design.
@@hificonnectin567 thats true, to get the same extension you would need a larger sealed box, it is a matter of compromise. My preference is sealed boxes, since i dont need the same extension as home theater, and you can use smaller boxes to get to an ideal alignment. I havent heard much about using the RSS in a horn cabinet as it would just be much too large for most people!!!
@@artificialmonkeypoo Many horn designs are there using rss, I myself is using a 15" rss in a tapped horn. Even with a 250w amp it gives crazy output down to subsonic region without any kind of distortion. Yes size is an issue 7'x2'x18", will look like a tv unit, can be integrated well aesthetically.
Hey. Definitely enjoy your content so keep up the good work. You mention this is a cheaper solution for a sub but being as it doesn’t come with an amp, is it still cheaper when paired with a proper amp? Subs that come with internal amps are already paired well (generally) so there isn’t an added cost and also one less item in the a/v rack.
Thanks for watching! This is a hard area to compare because it is a DIY sub - but if you take the price of $580 and add on the price of a capable plate amp from Parts Express (which could be installed internally so you don't take up any extra space in the rack!) comes out at $940, which, even at that price, still makes this kit very competitive in our opinion. Of course, if you take into account your time and labor, depending on what your time is worth, it might just make more sense to buy a prebuilt sub. Hope this helps! :)
@@TwoGuyzTech Thank you for the response! For me personally, I love projects like this. I’m my teenage years, my father and I built a box for two ten inch subs in my car. So I’m happy you posted this as it wasn’t even something I was considering before the video.
AB amplifiers usually have better dampening factors and sound quality. Also, these amps have fans to address cooling. I think Crown a/b amps are a better choice. They are less expensive, have more power, and have bigger internal heat sinks, which means the fan doesn't kick on as often. Yes, class A/B is less efficient, thus producing more heat. That doesn't mean they are inferior for the reasons I stated above.
No way I should have to use bondo to fill in the gaps and holes of a cnc cut box that costs as much as this one. Either their machine is jacked or you didn’t put it together correctly.
$600 for a " Budget" subwoofer and it doesn't even have an amplifier?. This kit needs to be equipped with a 800w RMS to 1,200w amplifier plate to be worth $600.
@B121i10 It may be for some, but Dayton Audio offers other products for considerably less. In relation to multi-thousand dollar subwoofers, yes, it certainly is, but this is one of their more premium offerings.
can't believe i just stumbled on these. I've been very aware of the dayton sealed versions for a long time but prefer the deep low sound of ported...however I move around alot so small size of these paired with the low end of the passive radiators is a no brainer! I think this might be my next sub (18 inch ver though)
Love to see you guys getting into DIY. Great deal for that sub.
Thanks for watching Barrett!! It was a lot of fun to put together, the nice thing is it's quite a bit smaller than my other DIY subs so it's much easier to move around :)
Love the vid. Consider reaching out to GSG Audio and see if they'll send you out one of their full Marty 21" sub enclosures. Pair it with the 21" Kraken home theater sub from Parts Express. I'd love to see an in depth review of this combination and I'm guessing the vid/review would get lots of views. Keep up the great content. 👍
That would be cool! That driver looks like a beast too lol. We'll certainly consider it, thanks for the suggestion & for watching :)
2:07 ... idk why I legitimately thought you were about to say "after this, our next step was to paint the sum bitch" , idk whats wrong with me lmao
Awesome! Thanks for the review! Looking exactly at this model
Glad we could help! Thanks for watching 😀
Right now, this kit is $700 on PE. Orginally I was going to buy a Ultimax 15" Sealed sub kit ($355) from PE and a Crown XLS bridged with 1100W for it. Now I see this and wonder if this kit featured is worth double the price.
I don't have first hand experience with Ultimax Kit, but my guess is it will have slightly tighter bass with less output compared to this kit. I really like this sub especially for movies. I will more than likely buy another one because I have an extra channel on my QSC amp I can use to power it. I do think $700 is too much but if it goes on sale for around $500 this sub will be hard to beat. Thanks for watching!
It shows you using bondo, but the one on the table still shows pin holes. did you build multiple?
Great review and details! Thanks for the review 👍
No problem! Thanks for watching :)
Great Sub! 🎉🎉🎉❤❤❤😊😊😊
Did you have to add any weight to the passive radiator to tune it or did parts express do that?
A sealed enclosure would give you better low end.
The best design for this driver is a tapped horn or a front folded horn like the THT and those enclosures can give really deep low end
A sealed box has a softer roll off but the tuning frequency is way higher for the same volume. Sealed boxes excel at transient response if not critically damped, but are hardly chosen if bass extension is your goal.
@@artificialmonkeypoo If properly designed with a slightly bigger dimension a sealed enclosure will give better extension and to get the same group delay in a ported box is not so easy. Ported will give more output near the tuning freq but a good sealed will be far far better wrt quality bass. BTW, this driver is better suited for a horn design.
@@hificonnectin567 thats true, to get the same extension you would need a larger sealed box, it is a matter of compromise. My preference is sealed boxes, since i dont need the same extension as home theater, and you can use smaller boxes to get to an ideal alignment. I havent heard much about using the RSS in a horn cabinet as it would just be much too large for most people!!!
@@artificialmonkeypoo Many horn designs are there using rss, I myself is using a 15" rss in a tapped horn. Even with a 250w amp it gives crazy output down to subsonic region without any kind of distortion. Yes size is an issue 7'x2'x18", will look like a tv unit, can be integrated well aesthetically.
What do you mean by critically damped?
Great video! Do you have another video, or any more info regarding the dual opposed sub shown at 7:50 in the video?
Thanks for watching! Unfortunately, at the time I built those subs I wasn't doing RUclips so I didn't document any of the build process.
Hey. Definitely enjoy your content so keep up the good work. You mention this is a cheaper solution for a sub but being as it doesn’t come with an amp, is it still cheaper when paired with a proper amp? Subs that come with internal amps are already paired well (generally) so there isn’t an added cost and also one less item in the a/v rack.
Thanks for watching! This is a hard area to compare because it is a DIY sub - but if you take the price of $580 and add on the price of a capable plate amp from Parts Express (which could be installed internally so you don't take up any extra space in the rack!) comes out at $940, which, even at that price, still makes this kit very competitive in our opinion. Of course, if you take into account your time and labor, depending on what your time is worth, it might just make more sense to buy a prebuilt sub.
Hope this helps! :)
@@TwoGuyzTech Thank you for the response! For me personally, I love projects like this. I’m my teenage years, my father and I built a box for two ten inch subs in my car. So I’m happy you posted this as it wasn’t even something I was considering before the video.
Look at Power Sound Audio subs; $1500 - $3500 for a powered "18.
My woofer had no presence and blew up in 15 min.... I wasn't impressed with this sub... Did you break in the sub? How did you do it?
Mine has been great, no break in just made sure to give it clean power. Its possible you received a defective driver, maybe contact Parts Express.
This video is amazing except the mic quality and lack of variety to demostrate the performance of this setup. Wish there was more to listen to...
AB amplifier heats up a lot 8:30
AB amplifiers usually have better dampening factors and sound quality. Also, these amps have fans to address cooling. I think Crown a/b amps are a better choice. They are less expensive, have more power, and have bigger internal heat sinks, which means the fan doesn't kick on as often. Yes, class A/B is less efficient, thus producing more heat. That doesn't mean they are inferior for the reasons I stated above.
No way I should have to use bondo to fill in the gaps and holes of a cnc cut box that costs as much as this one. Either their machine is jacked or you didn’t put it together correctly.
Where are the mesurements?
can you put a amp inside????????
You can get a separate plate amp and drill for it.
Safe Money? How? This Kit is 999Euro (1099$ US) in germany. Its more than twice expensive in Europe. WTF!
SVS subs are way over priced.
$600 for a " Budget" subwoofer and it doesn't even have an amplifier?. This kit needs to be equipped with a 800w RMS to 1,200w amplifier plate to be worth $600.
This is DIY, not budget. These subs are meant to compete with subs that retail over $2000, not your run of the mill Best Buy brands (not Magnolia).
@B121i10 It may be for some, but Dayton Audio offers other products for considerably less. In relation to multi-thousand dollar subwoofers, yes, it certainly is, but this is one of their more premium offerings.