Looking forward to seeing this car fixed because its a beautiful looking example, takes me back to my childhood when my Dad had a 1970 (H) 2000 MkII and then a 73 (M) 2.5 PI.
Brings back distant memories of my 1970 Ford Cortina 1600. When the engine expired I left the car in my parent's driveway and removed the engine. Stripped it down, replaced all the important bits with GT-specification parts including camshaft and pistons, and reassembled it. I also replaced the standard Ford carburetor with a twin-choke Dellorto unit, had it dyno-tuned and put the engine back in the car. Amazingly, it ran beautifully.
I just bought a 2500S and drove it the length of the country home. It ran as smoothly as could be. I feel sorry for you but know that you will have a fantastic car when done. Looking forward to hearing her run again. Personally I would rebuild another block. Great videos on great cars.
Same thing happened to a team member of the Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 Register on the way to club national a several years ago. Great cars, I've had an S for 32 years. Good luck with getting her back on the road.
Regarding the 2000 Register: it‘s the annual Register National this weekend at Whitehill Country Park, Paignton, Devon. Main day will be tomorrow (Sat 11th) with cars on display and parts jumble. Probably worth a visit for you? Kind regards, T.
Resist the temptation to use the 'holed' block again, find a good block and rebuild it....you have to rebuild it anyway!!!! or find a running 2.5 donor engine. I think the 2.0 straight six was a more forgiving engine with shorter 76mm stroke, the 2.5 longer 95mm stroke gave the big ends way more work to do at higher revs, so any weakness soon jumped out!
Get the rear in the air, the bonnet off and hoist the engine and box straight out the top, no messing. The wooden stick known as a harker if you asked my old dad. Good luck. Looking forward to see how you go about whipping that lump out.
Its possible to repair the block with TIG brazing. Rod through the side is almost certainly due to big end failure, snapped rod, and debris through the block. Might be rebuildable, but better to get a core which hasnt blown up, and use parts from both to make one good engine.
Cheers - great points... will have to make a decision on this one way or another soon.. watch out for what happens next in the series!! All the best Kind regards Tony
@@ArryTheStag Unless you are VERY lucky, there will be fair amount of damage inside that engine. A core unit, which had not blown up would make things much easier, but I guess would be very difficult to find now, as the majority of 2.5s died on the banger tracks, decades ago?
The bad old days, still remember when thrust washers wore out and cranks used to move forward and back... Getting clutch to work was a nightmare.... Don't see that with modern cars, common on old cars..
I really enjoyed this video, excellent filming which made me feel involved and at the heart of things, special effects worked well and added to the overall quality of the presentation 👍 I fear the block will need to be replaced with all the associated mechanical parts that will be damaged, but hopefully the cylinder head will be fine, but until it comes off we can't be sure, the fact the cam follower on cly 6 is bent may indicate a bigger problem to come ! I am looking forward to part 2 of this adventure, as part 1 had be glued to the screen! so good luck with that Tony and 'Arry 😊
Thanks Colin - there is more after we got more into it yesterday....we'll let you see that in the next episode!! All the best and thanks for posting! Kind regards Tony
At a guess possible the bottom end came apart and the conrod went through the side of the block. If correct then possible somebody changed the big end shells (which I understand is possible on triumph 2500 without taking the engine out, correct me if I'm wrong) and either didn't sufficiently tighten up the bolts or used old ones which stretched and snapped. It'll be interesting to see if that's the problem or not?
Great video Tony, Sorry to see the big hole in the block, not sure that can be cold stitched. I think thats normally for cracks!!. Good luck with the in depth investigation. Cheers Bob.
The pistons travel nowhere near as fast as you might imagine. 2500S has a 3.74 inch bore. So in one hour at 5,000 RPM the piston travels: 5,000 x 2 x 3.74 x 60 = 2,244,000 inches. Divide by 63,360 to get miles travelled in one hour: 35.4.
Good to see you are staying cheerful, not much fun when it blows up so quickly. As many comments have said block repairs can be done but it is a finicky process and probably not justified in this case. Chances are the bent pushrod happened when the piston quit taking orders from the crankshaft. I guess you could usefully strip and examine the head during bad weather days. You probably have a pair of bent valves and all sorts of junk in the oil galleries. I am racking my brains as to where I have seen a derelict 2500 near me. I am sure you can find a decent short engine.
This crankshaft is supported by only 4 main bearings for some reason, which means it suffers from "whip". Crank may be snapped. Still you've got to be caning the arse off that to put a rod through the side. Imho.
Difficult to be sure from a video, but it may be possible to repair the crankcase with an appropriate welding technique. Assuming the load bearing parts of the case are undamaged, cast iron can be welded with a stick. Alternatively, if the face is flat, it could be easier to square the hole and to drill & tap with a view to fitting a plate?
@@ArryTheStag definitely the simplest solution. Four bolts on each edge and a cork gasket (sheets can be bought from the well known online retailer) will provide a good seal. Also doubles as an inspection hatch. Be the cheapest solution by a long way. Probably cost less than £10.
Cold stitching is a complete red herring…. it is just for repairing cracks in cast iron blocks caused by water expansion etc.. forget that block it is completely trashed. The crank and remaining rods and pistons may be saveable so a full stripdown is in order but you are needing a new short engine in some form whatever you find out. There must be a few still lurking in the stocks of TR enthusiasts or specialists somewhere.
Thanks John - lots happening and hope to reach a decision what to do soon. Will have a look inside the engine first however.. watch this space for the next episode! Best Tony
Recently I saw a tractor engine from the 1950s in a scrap yard in Sweden, the case had a lead patch riveted onto the side. That was a DIY repair after it threw a rod, by the look of it, the repair was very old. The engine was being removed from the chassis to be used, the chassis was heavily rusted, so it would appear that the DIY lead patch engine repair worked as intended.
I had a 1974 2.5 pi back in 1982 and exactly the same thing happened on the M4, in them days you could just drop into your local scrap yard and take one out of a scrapped car
Hiya - had me worried too when we bought it and before we collected..but try the letter O rather than the number 0 and you'll see she's on DVLA's radar! Well spotted! Best TR T
I've learned a new phrase since this all happened.. 'putting a leg out' is when a conrod shoots out of the crankcase!!! Will have to see if this is salvageable or not!! Best TR T
@@ArryTheStag I'm guessing then to stitch it a similar piece of cast iron cut from another block and the replacement piece and hole engineered to fit together and then the stitching process followed by some way of sealing the resultant seam. Did it drop a big end and then a conrod strike the block from the inside?
@@ArryTheStag I'm gonna have to start looking for either another Triumph 2500S... or maybe an SD1...had two of those as well... last one was in mint condition, Vanden Plas 3500... bought for $au4000 and sold for $au5000... The SD1s had collosal space in them and the burble of the V8 was lovely. I did over 300,000 km in my 2500S never had the head off, but did replace the clutch and the overdrive clutch... which is how I know just how many bolts there are around the bell housing... When refitting the gearbox I cut a small inspection hole in the bell housing near the flywheel and ballpeined into shape a small cover which for which I tapped a couple of small holes to bolt it over... This made fitting the clutch easier and I could get a small ring spanner in to tighten the flywheel bolts... Had that clutch out a couple of times as the first one I was sold had a broken diaphragm spring and wouldn't disengage properly... Had to exchange it after convincing the seller it was faulty... not a problem after that.
As someone who has suffered from skin cancer,good to see you putting on sun cream ! But a bit more care in covering your whole face is sensible. And you didn’t put any on your ears . I have had a third of one ear removed through cancer and it’s worth taking a bit of time to protect them . Good video . Well done
Thanks Rob and sorry to hear about your experiences. Yes off camera got well slavvered with cream including ears and had a brolly up over the engine too to keep out of the sun. Best wishes and thanks for posting. Kind regards Tony
At the risk of sounding really stupid is this the result of the break down you had when you thought it was a gear box failure ? Or have I missed something any way good luck with it
Not at all ..glad you asked! I have a bit of a Borg Warner 'twitch' actually, following our last escapade where we bought a Stag unseen and blew the box on that one on the way home!! I have Green Flag on Speed Dial!! No this was defo engine and we are going through it with a fine tooth comb to see what actually happened.. Be sure to watch the next episode!
The guy you bought the maroon S from without an engine might stil have his old engine he was fitting the engine in his Tr6, that's why it was sold without engine But the engine he took out of his TR6 he might stil have through he said bottom end was rumbling but could be rebuilt I could find out for you My friend works next door to him?, not sure if you bought it from him or the next owner
@@ArryTheStag I've just asked if he's stil got it through my friend waiting for reply Also there is one on ebay saying it been rebuilt £950 but take the rebuilt bit with a pinch of sait Unless you can here running!!
@@ArryTheStag hope you can find another block or motor but I'd say crank and rod are history I've done this as well nothing survived apart from head good luck arry
@@ArryTheStag my first nice car was a 2000 mark 1 reg. jfa 341f registered oct 1967 My dad bought it new I had it off him in 1975 I think it was a lovely car before this Dad had a couple of Heralds JFA710 new in 59 and OFA 288 new in 62 Always liked Triumphs
That engine with box is very long Remove bonnet Lower front of car Jack rear of car up Be very careful of swing/ slack on engine crane or engine can fall causing damage to car
These blocks are ten a penny. Seriously, one of the cheapest and most common classic blocks out there. Buy one, get the engine number restamped, and move on.
That engine crane doesn't look man enough If removing engine from gearbox unbolt torque converter leaving torque converter in gearbox or oil wil poor out all over the floor
It had a dirk great Wolesley engine hanging from it when we collected it (borrowed off Will next door).. so hope all good. Great points on TC and my Missis would not have been happy if I'd dumped loads of trans fluid over the garden!! Best TR T
Certainly heard it after!! ...And witnessed loads of bits flying down the M74 behind us too!! Oooerrr.. Obviously need to get the ears tested!! Best TR T
Looking forward to seeing this car fixed because its a beautiful looking example, takes me back to my childhood when my Dad had a 1970 (H) 2000 MkII and then a 73 (M) 2.5 PI.
Thanks Tim - it is a lovely car...just wish I could get out and drive it!! Watch this space for more developments with Project Eddie! Best wishes TR T
Brings back distant memories of my 1970 Ford Cortina 1600. When the engine expired I left the car in my parent's driveway and removed the engine. Stripped it down, replaced all the important bits with GT-specification parts including camshaft and pistons, and reassembled it. I also replaced the standard Ford carburetor with a twin-choke Dellorto unit, had it dyno-tuned and put the engine back in the car. Amazingly, it ran beautifully.
Thanks Steve!
I just bought a 2500S and drove it the length of the country home. It ran as smoothly as could be. I feel sorry for you but know that you will have a fantastic car when done. Looking forward to hearing her run again. Personally I would rebuild another block. Great videos on great cars.
Thanks Jonathan - much appreciated! Work is underway and will be posting again soon! All the best Kind regards Tony
Same thing happened to a team member of the Triumph 2000/2500/2.5 Register on the way to club national a several years ago. Great cars, I've had an S for 32 years. Good luck with getting her back on the road.
Thanks Steve - very much appreciated! All the best Kind regards Tony
Regarding the 2000 Register: it‘s the annual Register National this weekend at Whitehill Country Park, Paignton, Devon. Main day will be tomorrow (Sat 11th) with cars on display and parts jumble. Probably worth a visit for you? Kind regards, T.
Resist the temptation to use the 'holed' block again, find a good block and rebuild it....you have to rebuild it anyway!!!! or find a running 2.5 donor engine. I think the 2.0 straight six was a more forgiving engine with shorter 76mm stroke, the 2.5 longer 95mm stroke gave the big ends way more work to do at higher revs, so any weakness soon jumped out!
Thanks Gavin - wise words.. it is a huge hole!! Best wishes TR T
Get the rear in the air, the bonnet off and hoist the engine and box straight out the top, no messing.
The wooden stick known as a harker if you asked my old dad.
Good luck. Looking forward to see how you go about whipping that lump out.
Thanks James! All the best TR T
Its possible to repair the block with TIG brazing. Rod through the side is almost certainly due to big end failure, snapped rod, and debris through the block. Might be rebuildable, but better to get a core which hasnt blown up, and use parts from both to make one good engine.
Cheers - great points... will have to make a decision on this one way or another soon.. watch out for what happens next in the series!! All the best Kind regards Tony
@@ArryTheStag Unless you are VERY lucky, there will be fair amount of damage inside that engine. A core unit, which had not blown up would make things much easier, but I guess would be very difficult to find now, as the majority of 2.5s died on the banger tracks, decades ago?
@@humourless682 We are getting close to having to make a decision I think! All the best TR T
@@ArryTheStag I think your decision has to be based on whether its possible to find a core unit, better than your blown engine?
@@humourless682 yep fully agree! Best Tony
The bad old days, still remember when thrust washers wore out and cranks used to move forward and back... Getting clutch to work was a nightmare.... Don't see that with modern cars, common on old cars..
What a mess 😢loved the special effects array
Yess.. no wonder she went bang!! The Missis was not impressed! Best TR T
I really enjoyed this video, excellent filming which made me feel involved and at the heart of things, special effects worked well and added to the overall quality of the presentation 👍
I fear the block will need to be replaced with all the associated mechanical parts that will be damaged, but hopefully the cylinder head will be fine, but until it comes off we can't be sure, the fact the cam follower on cly 6 is bent may indicate a bigger problem to come !
I am looking forward to part 2 of this adventure, as part 1 had be glued to the screen! so good luck with that Tony and 'Arry 😊
Thanks Colin - there is more after we got more into it yesterday....we'll let you see that in the next episode!! All the best and thanks for posting! Kind regards Tony
@@ArryTheStag Would make a good base for an EV conversion using MG EV tech in it thus keeping the Triumph / Rover / MG links together :)
As said before on the m74, would you have not telephoned the seller, could be compensate in hand, good look
When removing bonnet draw around hinges with a marker pen then easy lining up again
Great tip Adam! Thanks for posting! Best TR T
At a guess possible the bottom end came apart and the conrod went through the side of the block. If correct then possible somebody changed the big end shells (which I understand is possible on triumph 2500 without taking the engine out, correct me if I'm wrong) and either didn't sufficiently tighten up the bolts or used old ones which stretched and snapped. It'll be interesting to see if that's the problem or not?
Great video Tony, Sorry to see the big hole in the block, not sure that can be cold stitched. I think thats normally for cracks!!. Good luck with the in depth investigation. Cheers Bob.
You can also use an engineer's stethoscope which has a rod or probe on the end.
Great tip thanks - all very useful I think when trying to pin point strange noises!! Kind regards Tony
The pistons travel nowhere near as fast as you might imagine. 2500S has a 3.74 inch bore. So in one hour at 5,000 RPM the piston travels: 5,000 x 2 x 3.74 x 60 = 2,244,000 inches. Divide by 63,360 to get miles travelled in one hour: 35.4.
Good to see you are staying cheerful, not much fun when it blows up so quickly. As many comments have said block repairs can be done but it is a finicky process and probably not justified in this case. Chances are the bent pushrod happened when the piston quit taking orders from the crankshaft. I guess you could usefully strip and examine the head during bad weather days. You probably have a pair of bent valves and all sorts of junk in the oil galleries. I am racking my brains as to where I have seen a derelict 2500 near me. I am sure you can find a decent short engine.
Thanks mate - much appreciated! Best Tony
Had a similar thing happen to a 2.5 pi in the early eighties, lent it my dad to go to Cornwall from north west and dropped its guts at st agnes.
You can also use a screwdriver
Very true - a handy tip all round I reckon! All the best Tony
This crankshaft is supported by only 4 main bearings for some reason, which means it suffers from "whip". Crank may be snapped. Still you've got to be caning the arse off that to put a rod through the side. Imho.
Will see on fuller investigation! Thanks for posting Best TR T
Difficult to be sure from a video, but it may be possible to repair the crankcase with an appropriate welding technique. Assuming the load bearing parts of the case are undamaged, cast iron can be welded with a stick. Alternatively, if the face is flat, it could be easier to square the hole and to drill & tap with a view to fitting a plate?
Not a bad shout that a plate! We'll see what the final shape is before we decide! Thanks for posting and a great point! Best TR T
@@ArryTheStag definitely the simplest solution. Four bolts on each edge and a cork gasket (sheets can be bought from the well known online retailer) will provide a good seal. Also doubles as an inspection hatch. Be the cheapest solution by a long way. Probably cost less than £10.
Hi I saw the mgd what happened with the stag
GET ON WITH IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cold stitching is a complete red herring…. it is just for repairing cracks in cast iron blocks caused by water expansion etc.. forget that block it is completely trashed. The crank and remaining rods and pistons may be saveable so a full stripdown is in order but you are needing a new short engine in some form whatever you find out. There must be a few still lurking in the stocks of TR enthusiasts or specialists somewhere.
Thanks John - lots happening and hope to reach a decision what to do soon. Will have a look inside the engine first however.. watch this space for the next episode! Best Tony
gear box bolts... about 24 around the bell housing... can done from underneath... did it twice on mine removing gearbox from beneath.
Hope the bottom end is saveable🤞🏽
As you said it can be stitched as long as the internals are not too damaged🙄
Fingers crossed!! Best TR T
Recently I saw a tractor engine from the 1950s in a scrap yard in Sweden, the case had a lead patch riveted onto the side. That was a DIY repair after it threw a rod, by the look of it, the repair was very old. The engine was being removed from the chassis to be used, the chassis was heavily rusted, so it would appear that the DIY lead patch engine repair worked as intended.
Good point Martin - many thanks!
@@ArryTheStag there is a company that offers welding rods for cast iron!
ruclips.net/video/K85MH9Z5FPU/видео.html
I had a 1974 2.5 pi back in 1982 and exactly the same thing happened on the M4, in them days you could just drop into your local scrap yard and take one out of a scrapped car
What was the reg if you mind me asking? (And if you remember haha)
So any response front he seller? was this a company or private, of the latter it's on you, if it's a company surely they must meet some of the cost?
Private I'm afraid. Kind regards Tony
How comes the reg doesn't exist?
Hiya - had me worried too when we bought it and before we collected..but try the letter O rather than the number 0 and you'll see she's on DVLA's radar! Well spotted! Best TR T
@@ArryTheStag even with O it doesn’t show up?
@@Rialas defo works just went on to dvla tax and mot checker and all in order.. plus we have the v5! All the best Tony
@@ArryTheStag Oh, I see. Those of us from that era are typing S instead of 5. Now it shows up 👍
Big hole ..what's happend there rhen
I've learned a new phrase since this all happened.. 'putting a leg out' is when a conrod shoots out of the crankcase!!! Will have to see if this is salvageable or not!! Best TR T
Do you have the bit of the block that was blown out? ... From your comment just now, clearly not.
I have some of it.. the rest bounced down the inside lane of the M74...!!! Best TR T
@@ArryTheStag I'm guessing then to stitch it a similar piece of cast iron cut from another block and the replacement piece and hole engineered to fit together and then the stitching process followed by some way of sealing the resultant seam. Did it drop a big end and then a conrod strike the block from the inside?
@@007JHS Yes it blew out a good un down the bottom and most of the debris went under the car behind us as we were coming to a stop! Best Tony
@@ArryTheStag I'm gonna have to start looking for either another Triumph 2500S... or maybe an SD1...had two of those as well... last one was in mint condition, Vanden Plas 3500... bought for $au4000 and sold for $au5000...
The SD1s had collosal space in them and the burble of the V8 was lovely. I did over 300,000 km in my 2500S never had the head off, but did replace the clutch and the overdrive clutch... which is how I know just how many bolts there are around the bell housing... When refitting the gearbox I cut a small inspection hole in the bell housing near the flywheel and ballpeined into shape a small cover which for which I tapped a couple of small holes to bolt it over... This made fitting the clutch easier and I could get a small ring spanner in to tighten the flywheel bolts... Had that clutch out a couple of times as the first one I was sold had a broken diaphragm spring and wouldn't disengage properly... Had to exchange it after convincing the seller it was faulty... not a problem after that.
As someone who has suffered from skin cancer,good to see you putting on sun cream ! But a bit more care in covering your whole face is sensible. And you didn’t put any on your ears . I have had a third of one ear removed through cancer and it’s worth taking a bit of time to protect them . Good video . Well done
Thanks Rob and sorry to hear about your experiences. Yes off camera got well slavvered with cream including ears and had a brolly up over the engine too to keep out of the sun. Best wishes and thanks for posting. Kind regards Tony
Suddenly i'm worried about my Spitfire engine...
By all accounts this was a very unlucky incident.. so feel sure your Spitfire will be OK! Best TR T
I don't think you can repair that block, if it was a crack you could. But good luck, but still a great looking car
It's looking dodgy must admit.. but will keep going till we can say for definite one way or another! Best TR T
Its possible to repair the block, but I would think a used motor without terminal damage, would be a better option?
At the risk of sounding really stupid is this the result of the break down you had when you thought it was a gear box failure ? Or have I missed something any way good luck with it
Not at all ..glad you asked! I have a bit of a Borg Warner 'twitch' actually, following our last escapade where we bought a Stag unseen and blew the box on that one on the way home!! I have Green Flag on Speed Dial!! No this was defo engine and we are going through it with a fine tooth comb to see what actually happened.. Be sure to watch the next episode!
The guy you bought the maroon S from without an engine might stil have his old engine he was fitting the engine in his Tr6, that's why it was sold without engine
But the engine he took out of his TR6 he might stil have through he said bottom end was rumbling but could be rebuilt
I could find out for you
My friend works next door to him?, not sure if you bought it from him or the next owner
Thanks Adam - we will see how it goes when this one is out of the car.. useful to have that in mind though. Thankyou Best wishes TR T
@@ArryTheStag I've just asked if he's stil got it through my friend waiting for reply
Also there is one on ebay saying it been rebuilt £950 but take the rebuilt bit with a pinch of sait
Unless you can here running!!
Get another motor and cold stich the guy you bought it off lol
Need to have a chat at least methinks!! Best TR T
@@ArryTheStag hope you can find another block or motor but I'd say crank and rod are history I've done this as well nothing survived apart from head good luck arry
Put a datsun L24 or L26 engine and box into it, no more reliability problems.
Doesn’t this guy sound like Murray Walker
Will have to see if TR T can get a job commentating!! Big respect for MW.. he was and still is a Legend! Best TR T
You got the wrong guy, he sounds more like Piers Morgan!
@@ArryTheStag my first nice car was a 2000 mark 1 reg. jfa 341f registered oct 1967
My dad bought it new I had it off him in 1975 I think it was a lovely car
before this Dad had a couple of Heralds
JFA710 new in 59 and OFA 288 new in 62
Always liked Triumphs
Fixing old cars using the old manual is easy, go straight to the greasy pages.
I say get a Jaguar AJ6 or V12 engine in it.
That engine with box is very long
Remove bonnet
Lower front of car
Jack rear of car up
Be very careful of swing/ slack on engine crane or engine can fall causing damage to car
I think you’re going to need a short engine at least. 🙄
These blocks are ten a penny. Seriously, one of the cheapest and most common classic blocks out there. Buy one, get the engine number restamped, and move on.
Put a stag V8 in it
Tempting!
Excellent plan!
That engine crane doesn't look man enough
If removing engine from gearbox unbolt torque converter leaving torque converter in gearbox or oil wil poor out all over the floor
It had a dirk great Wolesley engine hanging from it when we collected it (borrowed off Will next door).. so hope all good. Great points on TC and my Missis would not have been happy if I'd dumped loads of trans fluid over the garden!! Best TR T
@@ArryTheStag the offer is there if you need a bigger crane
@@adamwort7160 Thanks mate - much appreciated! Kind regards Tony
Put a BMW B58 engine, with gearbox and rear Axle in it. European hot rod/ proper Triumph grand tourer. After all, BMW owns Triumph.
you could her the knock before you bought it. you must be deaf
Certainly heard it after!! ...And witnessed loads of bits flying down the M74 behind us too!! Oooerrr.. Obviously need to get the ears tested!! Best TR T