Thank you - we are not a big fan of cutting slots in the floor. Dedicated race cars is one thing but a multi purpose street car is another. Note: Evan on some of the race cars we build, we don't cut the floor.
I prefer sinking custom connectors into the floor pan. Better ground clearance and if welded to the subframe and floor, a much stronger and cleaner installation. Of course, I build custom rods.
Perhaps a comprimise .. custom diy square tubing with 1 side removed enough to hug the rear frame rail, and just touching the backseat foot-well. You'd only have to notch that 1 floor brace and re-locate those brake lines.
@Joe Di Carlo I take issue with your comment that if they aren't welded through the floor they aren't worth having. Yes, welded through the floor is more rigid, but it also ruins the flat floor for passengers and makes installing carpet a huge pain. Global West's design is a good compromise for those that don't want to screw up the interior. So if you're building a dedicated race car have at it. If not think long and hard.
I have a fabrication background, However am I missing something as to why the welded ends are not sitting flush against the frame rail and you have to box the end? Why not toss a tighter radius die in the bender and get that bracket to sit flat against the frame rail?
Guys, look at it again. The short section of channel that wraps around the rear frame rail is straight not bent. There is no way to get a straight section of channel to sit flat against a curved frame rail. If you put a tighter radius on the round tube than instead of just the one end of the channel having a gap to the frame rail then both ends would have a gap. Said another way the channel would only be touching the frame rail in the middle and the ends would not. Requiring you to box both ends. Of course they could fab and weld a curved channel piece to match the frame rail (which would be nicer) but that would drive the cost up.
Just ordered a set of your subframe connectors for my 1967 Camaro. I noticed you’re using a four post lift for the install. Do you recommend a four post lift so the car is on all four wheels vs a two post lift. Would the unibody on a Camaro be under too much of a load if I do this on a two post lift and potentially lock in bad door gaps etc? I have both types of lifts in my shop. Your products are absolutely awesome. I just put your full front suspension on my Camaro and have your front and rear kit on my 1972 Pontiac. Haven’t driven the Camaro yet as I’m still building it but the Pontiac is a completely different car now. Amazing difference. Thanks for all the great stuff you guys make for our cars!
So on a weak floor / door sag situation, can you somehow preload the connectors by jacking the car up to flex the floorpan to remove sag, before welding ? 902s for T-top cars too ?
Thanks, have 90x on my 79 Camaro. What are your thoughts on having 2 extra bolts bolted to the subframe, would it help eliminate any potential pivoting?
@@GlobalWestSuspension Thanks, they've been on for a couple of years and holding strong. Will need a new set now for my t-top Firebird, not a lot of structure with part of the roof missing 😂
Seems like all store-bought connectors have something to be desired. On yours I worrie that the rear could interfere with a mini tub and the front doesn't look tied in all that well. Seems like a guy could come up with something more solid on his own
These are really good but Detroit Speed has an alternative that ties the front subframe into the front leaf spring box AND the car's body but requires cutting the floor, especially the rear footwells, and so are more involved that this method. They're not very intrusive and don't affect ground clearance though. They almost look like how GM should have designed the car in the first place.
Thanks Doug, going to be installing these on my 72 Firebird in about 2 months. Perfect timing for me to find and watch.
Great! Glad this will help.
Great video perfect explanation on how too do it
glad you enjoyed the video!
Love the design. Making me rethink my decision to cut slots into my floors.
Thank you - we are not a big fan of cutting slots in the floor. Dedicated race cars is one thing but a multi purpose street car is another. Note: Evan on some of the race cars we build, we don't cut the floor.
I prefer sinking custom connectors into the floor pan. Better ground clearance and if welded to the subframe and floor, a much stronger and cleaner installation. Of course, I build custom rods.
@Joe Di Carlo You're rude.
Perhaps a comprimise .. custom diy square tubing with 1 side removed enough to hug the rear frame rail, and just touching the backseat foot-well. You'd only have to notch that 1 floor brace and re-locate those brake lines.
@Joe Di Carlo I take issue with your comment that if they aren't welded through the floor they aren't worth having. Yes, welded through the floor is more rigid, but it also ruins the flat floor for passengers and makes installing carpet a huge pain. Global West's design is a good compromise for those that don't want to screw up the interior. So if you're building a dedicated race car have at it. If not think long and hard.
I have a fabrication background, However am I missing something as to why the welded ends are not sitting flush against the frame rail and you have to box the end? Why not toss a tighter radius die in the bender and get that bracket to sit flat against the frame rail?
I agree, they fit like shit.
@@metalbill2007 yep
Guys, look at it again. The short section of channel that wraps around the rear frame rail is straight not bent. There is no way to get a straight section of channel to sit flat against a curved frame rail. If you put a tighter radius on the round tube than instead of just the one end of the channel having a gap to the frame rail then both ends would have a gap. Said another way the channel would only be touching the frame rail in the middle and the ends would not. Requiring you to box both ends. Of course they could fab and weld a curved channel piece to match the frame rail (which would be nicer) but that would drive the cost up.
For the most accurate response to your question give our tech line a call! 877-470-2975
well they would have more returns on the item if they did what you said...lolz
Just ordered a set of your subframe connectors for my 1967 Camaro. I noticed you’re using a four post lift for the install. Do you recommend a four post lift so the car is on all four wheels vs a two post lift. Would the unibody on a Camaro be under too much of a load if I do this on a two post lift and potentially lock in bad door gaps etc? I have both types of lifts in my shop.
Your products are absolutely awesome. I just put your full front suspension on my Camaro and have your front and rear kit on my 1972 Pontiac. Haven’t driven the Camaro yet as I’m still building it but the Pontiac is a completely different car now. Amazing difference. Thanks for all the great stuff you guys make for our cars!
Thanks for the support and kind words! For the most accurate response to your question give our tech line a call! 877-470-2975
Since the replacement bushings are aluminum, does that mean that the front two bushings need to be changed to aluminum as well? Thanks.
In terms of strength/reduced body flex, yes. Although they may make your noise/vibration a bit harder. Usually solid body mounts are a race car thing.
I’m curious to know what is different between 70-73 and 74-81.
To further the technical discussion give our tech line a call! 877-470-2975
the thickness of the paint i believe
I'm almost %100 sure they are the same. Frames are the same and frame rails are the same except were the frame meets the trunk pan to the tail panel.
Would the back seat need to be removed before doing welding underneath the rear end?
Give our tech experts a call to get that question answered ASAP! 877-470-2975
Great video! Do you make connectors for 1982 fiat spider 2000?
Thanks we do not unfortunately!
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Have you done before-and-after both bending and torsional testing to verify the benefit?
we do our own R&D !
@@GlobalWestSuspension I’m looking for comparative numbers, your actual measurements before and after.
So on a weak floor / door sag situation, can you somehow preload the connectors by jacking the car up to flex the floorpan to remove sag, before welding ? 902s for T-top cars too ?
Give our tech experts a call to get that question answered ASAP! 877-470-2975
Thanks, have 90x on my 79 Camaro. What are your thoughts on having 2 extra bolts bolted to the subframe, would it help eliminate any potential pivoting?
We designed it with enough strength in mind!
@@GlobalWestSuspension Thanks, they've been on for a couple of years and holding strong. Will need a new set now for my t-top Firebird, not a lot of structure with part of the roof missing 😂
@@car_ventures Glad to hear they're doing their job! Thanks for the support!
Seems like all store-bought connectors have something to be desired. On yours I worrie that the rear could interfere with a mini tub and the front doesn't look tied in all that well. Seems like a guy could come up with something more solid on his own
These are really good but Detroit Speed has an alternative that ties the front subframe into the front leaf spring box AND the car's body but requires cutting the floor, especially the rear footwells, and so are more involved that this method. They're not very intrusive and don't affect ground clearance though. They almost look like how GM should have designed the car in the first place.
Once the rear is welded, can the subframe still be removed from the car?
It would be pretty hard to remove !
Very cool..my 69 camo is gonna get a pair..rj
Awesome!
Why are these 70-73, and not 70-81?
they are designed for 70-73 models !
@@GlobalWestSuspension was unaware of any platform difference other than cosmetic
@@JohnDoe-gz8dw try a quick google search!
then its Ready too zoom through the S curves ..!
Yes it is hahahaha !!
stoopibd kars buildt withoiut FRAMES wut tha freek....my leaf spring saddle ripped loose ..i had some power..lolz
Sheeeesh I can only imagine hahahah. Got to get some suspension support!
Say goodbye to dog trakin...
hahahah