Greg, things happened just as you said. On July 4th I put down a mix of Quinclorac, Sulfentrazone, and Metholated Seed Oil on Crabgrass and Yellow Nutsedge. I "thought" I was being careful and used a quart spray bottle and "tried" to spot sprayed the weeds only. My Bermuda turned brown where the spray mix hit the grass and the Crabgrass, for the most part, turned purple and lived on. I know not to do that again. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Appreciate the feedback and stories help folks too. Particularly those "live and learn" ones. It's easy this time of year to try to fix weeds, disease, stress etc. It's therapeutic to do "something" and it is very difficult to discipline yourself and not "do harm". Glad the bermuda bounced back! It usually does.
Michigan state..sorry Spartans I said Michigan in video...anyway summer stress management www.canr.msu.edu/home_gardening/uploads/files/E3180_-_Summer_Lawn_Care.pdf
Thanks for your valuable insight Greg. I am located in the Concord, NC area and did a full lawn renovation last fall with an 85/15 mix of TTTF and KBG cultivars respectively. I see some common Bermuda trying to make its way back, nutsedge, white clover, and what I believe are Poa Annua and Poa Triv. However, with the hot dry days we have had, I have been avoiding mowing or applying any herbicides. We finally got some rain over the last week and that (and the threat of it when we didn’t get it) delayed my preventative fungicide applications past the 25 day window and I think I now see signs of possible rust. I don’t see any rain in the forecast for almost a week with temps in the 90s after today. What do you think about applying the fungicides with surfactant and/or trying to treat any of the weeds? Did you use a surfactant in the glyphosate spray bottle mix you applied via a sponge to the weeds in his video? Did you use 41% glyphosate mixed with water? What ratio of it to water did you use? Many thanks for any assistance!
Your Glyphosate question..most glyphosate products already have a surfactant in it. So no additional is needed. I basically used Ranger Pro. There are a bunch of glyphosate products. I put an ounce in the spray bottle and that is sufficient. I tell folks just get the roundup non concentrate. Think it's 8% glyphosate in the non concentrated product. Most folks don't need much. As far as the fungicide. One thing you could do is get the bioadvanced fungus control for lawns. It's in the hose end adaptor. That does a good job coating the entire leaf blade. It's simple and when I did my home lawn fungicide video week before last it was on super sale on Amazon. Link is here. amzn.to/4eYSJLA Surfactants for fungicides is not a bad move. Know guys that do that. That being said if there was a question of properly coating the leaf blade I usually increased my spray volume. Just the way I handled getting the fungicide on the leaf blade. The bioadvanced product will coat the leaf very well. See my fungicide video for resistance to dollar spot and using 3336/thiophanate-methyl in a rotation. The weeds question. Tenacity would be your best bet. It will suppress the poa annua and bermudagrass. Actually turn the Bermuda white. It's really cool to see it. I have a killing bermudagrass video too..:). If you can wait until September put an ap down of tenacity, figure a second one in October..that should weaken the Bermuda going into dormancy then winter likely will finish it off. With tenacity you can seed before and after application of TTF and KBG. So if you need to overseed that gives you that option. Then in November once your overseeding has established itself put out your spring pre emergent ap. That will significantly reduce your poa annua population. You are basically putting down a pre emergent for poa annua on September 1 and having a pre emergent in place until the next summer with that program. Going to do a poa annua control video and basically that is what I am going over. Could check do my own to see which is cheaper. Here is a link to a generic tenacity. If you want to try it. For "brand name" tenacity usually do my own is cheaper if you can get free shipping. amzn.to/3y6SYU6 pd ad
@@GregPhillips.22 Thanks for your detailed reply. I saw your “Lowest Cost Fungicide” video a couple of weeks ago. I have been spraying a fungicide mix of Propiconazole and Azoxystrobin a couple of times this season, but I do not have any Thiophanate-methyl. Do you water in the fungicide a day or so after the folia’s application if using a surfactant, or is that necessary? I have a large container of FarmWorks 41% glyphosate concentrate with surfactant. When I was trying to kill off my entire lawn for renovation I think I used a rate of 4 oz per 1000sq ft along with Fusilade II to improve the kill of common Bermudan. I think I did 3 kill sprays in all, but only used Fusilade II on the first spray. Would you mind sharing where you purchased the foam applicator wand you used to dab glyphosate on taller grassy weeds mixed in with desirable turf grass? Thanks again for all your assistance!
Sorry for the delay just saw your comment....the foam applicator is a highly technical very sophisticated device. Basically an old golf putter I have with a stiff tile sponge wired to it. LOL. Seriously that is it. They actually have a roundup jell that I have used in the past . It looks like a deodorant stick. The putter on a sponge keeps me from bending over and the liquid is cheaper. As far a watering in fungicide. As long as you are using good spray volume with your back pack sprayer...at least 1 gallon/1000 you should be ok. I know golf course superintendents that run the sprinkler heads one revolution after putting out propiconazole in particular. Another thing that could be done if you are mowing at higher than 3 inches is spray with your back pack sprayer. Then, go over the lawn setting your hose nozzle on "shower" giving a quick shot of water to get it down on the leaf blade. All fungicides labeled for home lawn use only translocate through the turf via the xylem (only moves up). So you have to get it on the lower parts of the leaf blade. I would do that the right after the application. Before it dries on the leafblade. I have had some golf course superintendents use surfactants with fungicide applications so it's not a bad move. I never have because of the spray volumes that I used.
@@GregPhillips.22 Thank you sir! I’m not a golfer, but definitely need to rig up something similar to protect my back! As for the fungicide application, I had been using an adjuvant to keep it on the leaf blades and not watering for at least 24 hours after application. However, it sounds like watering it in immediately (or even rain soon after application) wouldn’t be an issue. Is that correct? We finally started getting rain, almost daily for the past 5 days and predicted for the next 5 days. I need to apply fungicide, but don’t want to waste it if it is going to be washed off and be of no value.
@@GregPhillips.22 Thanks Greg. I tried the sponge method this past weekend and it has been 3 days and no signs of damage to the Nutsedge yet. Hopefully I had enough Glyphosate on the sponge to have an impact. I sprayed the sponge until it was running off of it and shook it off to hopefully prevent it from dripping on desirable turf. I guess if I don’t see it dying off by this coming weekend I can try Sulfentrazone and hope it doesn’t damage the TTTF and KBG.
Great video! I wish I watched this earlier. I literally put out Quinclorac 12 days ago and it had no effect on the crabgrass/orchard grass/dallisgrass (not sure what I have growing) in my yard in MD and I thought I bought a crappy product. I’m going to try the sponge method with RoundUp that you mentioned. What are your thoughts on applying biostimulants (humic/fulvic acid, sea kelp, etc.) during the summer or anytime for that matter?
I have used some of those products on golf greens to try things out. I actually have a video on biostimulants if you want to check that out. My thing is with them. They are kinda like the vitamin supplements you get for your body. Some make claims that are a bit more than what reality is, others may help. My take on those in general, if everything else is taken care of i.e. soil test come back with good nutrients and pH, you have good fertilization program, you have the right grass for your yard...the basic stuff and you want to try biostimulants then go for it. I dont have one that I "endorse". I have had some folks I respect use them and like them...so that is my take.
Thank you for posting another very helpful video. I have a smart watering app associated with my watering timers. I did catch cup tests in each zone and the app calculated a variety of metrics based on my uniformity, efficiency and application rate and some other details for Smart Watering. Which computed metrics should I be closely monitoring and/or using to establish an effective irrigation strategy? Should I be looking at "Available Water, Reference Evapotranspiration Rate, Landscape Evapotranspiration Rate or Ending Moisture?" I have access to a consumer-grade Moisture meter as well. Any help would greatly be appreciated! TIA
Should say in your manual. Those new technologies are taking a lot of the guess work out of irrigation. Some interface with local weather stations take the temp, humidity, sunlight, day length and other factors to calculate the amount of water to apply based on what is being irrigated. That way you can program landscaping on one zone, turf on another. You can even put another zone for a south facing slope for example and increase the time on that zone to accommodate for the additional sunlight and angle of sun for that area. Be sure to program the correct soil type if it asks for it, and other conditions. The manual should say it the manufacturer tech support should tell you which one to use with a given "crop" I.e. turf, landscaping, flowers, etc...
Mr Greg if I am applying a curative fungicide isn't ideal to fertilize for leaf growth and basically cut out the fungus when mowing? Provided one is not struggling with dry spots and watering 1" -1.5" of water per week.
The spores and the mycelia from the fungus is all over the turf canopy. Not just on the top or tips. Also when you mow they are blown all over the place and bagging will not be a sanitary enough method to remove the fungus. Also high nitrogen fertilization will increase new growth which due to the in maturity of the leaf are more susceptible to fungal infection.....Sorry it took long for me to get this question answered. I am having trouble getting my responses to post on some of my devices. Actually have tried a couple of times. Finally had to get on my laptop to get this posted.
Excellent video and info! Curious on what you think of blumuda, a mixture of bluegrass and bermuda for our area. I'm in Indy so similar weather to you. You also mention you have tall fescue. Do you have RTF or TTTF in your backyard? Any suggestion to either? I'm about done with my 20 year old bluegrass lol. Fungus is unreal.
Bermuda/bluegrass is the "new trend" and I have seen some beautiful lawns with it. Just wondering what long term will it work. Have one spicy summer and blue will be gone. Have a harsh winter Bermuda can be gone then the limitations on post emergent herbicides. I have tall fescue that I am overseeding with Artimuss tall fescue this fall. What is there is a left over from the previous owner that I have been managing since moving in. I am kicking it up a notch this fall though.
Greg, what is your advice on when to cut newly seeded lawn when wanting to main it at 1in/2.5cm? I’ve seen people say to start cutting at 1.5in to follow the 1/3rd rule or wait till 3in and “scalp” it to 1in. I plan on doing a full lawn Reno this fall. I would appreciate your expertise on this!
Appreciate your videos, Greg! Tifway 419 in Central Texas. Question about spurge. I apply pre-em (Prodiamine in fall and late winter/early spring then Dithiopyr late spring) BUT I still have to deal with spurge that I either hand pull or treat with a post-emergent. I read Isoxaben as a pre-em works well against spurge…thoughts?
interesting just has another guy ask about spurge. Possibly have a resistant strand of spurge to your Dithioplyr and Prodimine. Both are group 3 herbicides. Bad news is so is Isoxaben. You could try substitution with your Prodimine app this year and see if that helps. If it does not help, likely you have weed resistant to group 3 herbicides. On Gallery label it says not to apply it to dwarf type bermudagrass. I assume they mean 328...I have not used Galery/Isoxben on bermuda so you may want to tread lightly....Galery is more the ornamental market for per-emergents however, the label does gives rates for turfgrass.
So, the calendar provided by NC State is wrong for centipede? I have fertilized for the last seven years based on stress etc., in early to mid-August for the last of the years push to head into late October/early November dormancy. Just curious, as I want to ensure I am approaching this correctly. For example, I live south of Camp LeJeune, and we have finally gotten rain. I want to ensure I time this right. Was planning on my second application in about two weeks or so. If we get no rain and Tampa sty high I may not put anything out at all. Thoughts?
Centipede does not need much nitrogen at all. 1lb/ year. Also have to balance not putting out a nitrogen application 6 weeks before dormancy. Not a problem with what you are proposing but those are the "factors". I also like to put a nitrogen application on warm season grasses after the second mowing coming out of dormancy. The grass needs fed to get it going. So 1/2 lb of N then and another 1/2 lb like you are thinking a strategic time during the summer would be a good move. I don't fertilize my Bermuda past July. I just don't need to. Color and growth are fine by me.
Great video. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge
Thanks so much for taking the time to give feedback!
Love this video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for the feedback. Good to know which videos folks like.
Greg, things happened just as you said. On July 4th I put down a mix of Quinclorac, Sulfentrazone, and Metholated Seed Oil on Crabgrass and Yellow Nutsedge. I "thought" I was being careful and used a quart spray bottle and "tried" to spot sprayed the weeds only. My Bermuda turned brown where the spray mix hit the grass and the Crabgrass, for the most part, turned purple and lived on. I know not to do that again. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Appreciate the feedback and stories help folks too. Particularly those "live and learn" ones. It's easy this time of year to try to fix weeds, disease, stress etc. It's therapeutic to do "something" and it is very difficult to discipline yourself and not "do harm". Glad the bermuda bounced back! It usually does.
Great information. Thank you.
Thanks for taking the time to give me feedback.
Michigan state..sorry Spartans I said Michigan in video...anyway summer stress management www.canr.msu.edu/home_gardening/uploads/files/E3180_-_Summer_Lawn_Care.pdf
Thanks for your valuable insight Greg. I am located in the Concord, NC area and did a full lawn renovation last fall with an 85/15 mix of TTTF and KBG cultivars respectively. I see some common Bermuda trying to make its way back, nutsedge, white clover, and what I believe are Poa Annua and Poa Triv. However, with the hot dry days we have had, I have been avoiding mowing or applying any herbicides. We finally got some rain over the last week and that (and the threat of it when we didn’t get it) delayed my preventative fungicide applications past the 25 day window and I think I now see signs of possible rust. I don’t see any rain in the forecast for almost a week with temps in the 90s after today. What do you think about applying the fungicides with surfactant and/or trying to treat any of the weeds? Did you use a surfactant in the glyphosate spray bottle mix you applied via a sponge to the weeds in his video? Did you use 41% glyphosate mixed with water? What ratio of it to water did you use? Many thanks for any assistance!
Your Glyphosate question..most glyphosate products already have a surfactant in it. So no additional is needed. I basically used Ranger Pro. There are a bunch of glyphosate products. I put an ounce in the spray bottle and that is sufficient. I tell folks just get the roundup non concentrate. Think it's 8% glyphosate in the non concentrated product. Most folks don't need much.
As far as the fungicide. One thing you could do is get the bioadvanced fungus control for lawns. It's in the hose end adaptor. That does a good job coating the entire leaf blade. It's simple and when I did my home lawn fungicide video week before last it was on super sale on Amazon. Link is here. amzn.to/4eYSJLA
Surfactants for fungicides is not a bad move. Know guys that do that. That being said if there was a question of properly coating the leaf blade I usually increased my spray volume. Just the way I handled getting the fungicide on the leaf blade. The bioadvanced product will coat the leaf very well. See my fungicide video for resistance to dollar spot and using 3336/thiophanate-methyl in a rotation.
The weeds question. Tenacity would be your best bet. It will suppress the poa annua and bermudagrass. Actually turn the Bermuda white. It's really cool to see it. I have a killing bermudagrass video too..:). If you can wait until September put an ap down of tenacity, figure a second one in October..that should weaken the Bermuda going into dormancy then winter likely will finish it off. With tenacity you can seed before and after application of TTF and KBG. So if you need to overseed that gives you that option. Then in November once your overseeding has established itself put out your spring pre emergent ap. That will significantly reduce your poa annua population. You are basically putting down a pre emergent for poa annua on September 1 and having a pre emergent in place until the next summer with that program. Going to do a poa annua control video and basically that is what I am going over. Could check do my own to see which is cheaper. Here is a link to a generic tenacity. If you want to try it. For "brand name" tenacity usually do my own is cheaper if you can get free shipping. amzn.to/3y6SYU6
pd ad
@@GregPhillips.22 Thanks for your detailed reply. I saw your “Lowest Cost Fungicide” video a couple of weeks ago. I have been spraying a fungicide mix of Propiconazole and Azoxystrobin a couple of times this season, but I do not have any Thiophanate-methyl. Do you water in the fungicide a day or so after the folia’s application if using a surfactant, or is that necessary? I have a large container of FarmWorks 41% glyphosate concentrate with surfactant. When I was trying to kill off my entire lawn for renovation I think I used a rate of 4 oz per 1000sq ft along with Fusilade II to improve the kill of common Bermudan. I think I did 3 kill sprays in all, but only used Fusilade II on the first spray. Would you mind sharing where you purchased the foam applicator wand you used to dab glyphosate on taller grassy weeds mixed in with desirable turf grass? Thanks again for all your assistance!
Sorry for the delay just saw your comment....the foam applicator is a highly technical very sophisticated device. Basically an old golf putter I have with a stiff tile sponge wired to it. LOL. Seriously that is it. They actually have a roundup jell that I have used in the past . It looks like a deodorant stick. The putter on a sponge keeps me from bending over and the liquid is cheaper. As far a watering in fungicide. As long as you are using good spray volume with your back pack sprayer...at least 1 gallon/1000 you should be ok. I know golf course superintendents that run the sprinkler heads one revolution after putting out propiconazole in particular. Another thing that could be done if you are mowing at higher than 3 inches is spray with your back pack sprayer. Then, go over the lawn setting your hose nozzle on "shower" giving a quick shot of water to get it down on the leaf blade. All fungicides labeled for home lawn use only translocate through the turf via the xylem (only moves up). So you have to get it on the lower parts of the leaf blade. I would do that the right after the application. Before it dries on the leafblade. I have had some golf course superintendents use surfactants with fungicide applications so it's not a bad move. I never have because of the spray volumes that I used.
@@GregPhillips.22 Thank you sir! I’m not a golfer, but definitely need to rig up something similar to protect my back! As for the fungicide application, I had been using an adjuvant to keep it on the leaf blades and not watering for at least 24 hours after application. However, it sounds like watering it in immediately (or even rain soon after application) wouldn’t be an issue. Is that correct? We finally started getting rain, almost daily for the past 5 days and predicted for the next 5 days. I need to apply fungicide, but don’t want to waste it if it is going to be washed off and be of no value.
@@GregPhillips.22 Thanks Greg. I tried the sponge method this past weekend and it has been 3 days and no signs of damage to the Nutsedge yet. Hopefully I had enough Glyphosate on the sponge to have an impact. I sprayed the sponge until it was running off of it and shook it off to hopefully prevent it from dripping on desirable turf. I guess if I don’t see it dying off by this coming weekend I can try Sulfentrazone and hope it doesn’t damage the TTTF and KBG.
Great video! I wish I watched this earlier. I literally put out Quinclorac 12 days ago and it had no effect on the crabgrass/orchard grass/dallisgrass (not sure what I have growing) in my yard in MD and I thought I bought a crappy product. I’m going to try the sponge method with RoundUp that you mentioned. What are your thoughts on applying biostimulants (humic/fulvic acid, sea kelp, etc.) during the summer or anytime for that matter?
I have used some of those products on golf greens to try things out. I actually have a video on biostimulants if you want to check that out. My thing is with them. They are kinda like the vitamin supplements you get for your body. Some make claims that are a bit more than what reality is, others may help. My take on those in general, if everything else is taken care of i.e. soil test come back with good nutrients and pH, you have good fertilization program, you have the right grass for your yard...the basic stuff and you want to try biostimulants then go for it. I dont have one that I "endorse". I have had some folks I respect use them and like them...so that is my take.
@@GregPhillips.22 thanks so much for the response and I’ll definitely check out that video!
Thank you for posting another very helpful video. I have a smart watering app associated with my watering timers. I did catch cup tests in each zone and the app calculated a variety of metrics based on my uniformity, efficiency and application rate and some other details for Smart Watering. Which computed metrics should I be closely monitoring and/or using to establish an effective irrigation strategy? Should I be looking at "Available Water, Reference Evapotranspiration Rate, Landscape Evapotranspiration Rate or Ending Moisture?" I have access to a consumer-grade Moisture meter as well. Any help would greatly be appreciated! TIA
Should say in your manual. Those new technologies are taking a lot of the guess work out of irrigation. Some interface with local weather stations take the temp, humidity, sunlight, day length and other factors to calculate the amount of water to apply based on what is being irrigated. That way you can program landscaping on one zone, turf on another. You can even put another zone for a south facing slope for example and increase the time on that zone to accommodate for the additional sunlight and angle of sun for that area. Be sure to program the correct soil type if it asks for it, and other conditions. The manual should say it the manufacturer tech support should tell you which one to use with a given "crop" I.e. turf, landscaping, flowers, etc...
Mr Greg if I am applying a curative fungicide isn't ideal to fertilize for leaf growth and basically cut out the fungus when mowing? Provided one is not struggling with dry spots and watering 1" -1.5" of water per week.
The spores and the mycelia from the fungus is all over the turf canopy. Not just on the top or tips. Also when you mow they are blown all over the place and bagging will not be a sanitary enough method to remove the fungus. Also high nitrogen fertilization will increase new growth which due to the in maturity of the leaf are more susceptible to fungal infection.....Sorry it took long for me to get this question answered. I am having trouble getting my responses to post on some of my devices. Actually have tried a couple of times. Finally had to get on my laptop to get this posted.
Excellent video and info! Curious on what you think of blumuda, a mixture of bluegrass and bermuda for our area. I'm in Indy so similar weather to you.
You also mention you have tall fescue. Do you have RTF or TTTF in your backyard? Any suggestion to either? I'm about done with my 20 year old bluegrass lol. Fungus is unreal.
Bermuda/bluegrass is the "new trend" and I have seen some beautiful lawns with it. Just wondering what long term will it work. Have one spicy summer and blue will be gone. Have a harsh winter Bermuda can be gone then the limitations on post emergent herbicides.
I have tall fescue that I am overseeding with Artimuss tall fescue this fall. What is there is a left over from the previous owner that I have been managing since moving in. I am kicking it up a notch this fall though.
Greg, what is your advice on when to cut newly seeded lawn when wanting to main it at 1in/2.5cm? I’ve seen people say to start cutting at 1.5in to follow the 1/3rd rule or wait till 3in and “scalp” it to 1in.
I plan on doing a full lawn Reno this fall.
I would appreciate your expertise on this!
Depend on the grass. You growing Bermuda? If it's a cool season grass it is unlikely to make it at 1 inch height of cut.
@@GregPhillips.22 elite perennial ryegrass
Appreciate your videos, Greg! Tifway 419 in Central Texas. Question about spurge. I apply pre-em (Prodiamine in fall and late winter/early spring then Dithiopyr late spring) BUT I still have to deal with spurge that I either hand pull or treat with a post-emergent. I read Isoxaben as a pre-em works well against spurge…thoughts?
interesting just has another guy ask about spurge. Possibly have a resistant strand of spurge to your Dithioplyr and Prodimine. Both are group 3 herbicides. Bad news is so is Isoxaben. You could try substitution with your Prodimine app this year and see if that helps. If it does not help, likely you have weed resistant to group 3 herbicides. On Gallery label it says not to apply it to dwarf type bermudagrass. I assume they mean 328...I have not used Galery/Isoxben on bermuda so you may want to tread lightly....Galery is more the ornamental market for per-emergents however, the label does gives rates for turfgrass.
So, the calendar provided by NC State is wrong for centipede?
I have fertilized for the last seven years based on stress etc., in early to mid-August for the last of the years push to head into late October/early November dormancy.
Just curious, as I want to ensure I am approaching this correctly.
For example, I live south of Camp LeJeune, and we have finally gotten rain. I want to ensure I time this right. Was planning on my second application in about two weeks or so. If we get no rain and Tampa sty high I may not put anything out at all.
Thoughts?
Centipede does not need much nitrogen at all. 1lb/ year. Also have to balance not putting out a nitrogen application 6 weeks before dormancy. Not a problem with what you are proposing but those are the "factors". I also like to put a nitrogen application on warm season grasses after the second mowing coming out of dormancy. The grass needs fed to get it going. So 1/2 lb of N then and another 1/2 lb like you are thinking a strategic time during the summer would be a good move. I don't fertilize my Bermuda past July. I just don't need to. Color and growth are fine by me.
www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay/ay-7-w.pdf summer stress, watering dormant turf.
what is a good recommendation for HOC for summer time for hybrid bermuda home lawn here in San Antonio, TX?
I move mine from an inch and a quarter to an inch and 2/3 two weeks ago
@@GregPhillips.22 I'm at 2 inches but wasn't sure to stay or cut it down to 1.5 inches.