Great explanation. Thank you very much! I've dabbled in wiring before, but I've just looked on forums and copied what other people have done. I would like to put more trust into myself to use the right components. Enjoying the series!
Thanks for sharing. I know nothing about electrical, but starting at the basics helps. I can say I knew more than I did. The visual really helps to understand better also! Thanks! 😃👍
This is the first video i saw made by you. Thank you for a good job and a very pleasant refreshing course. I did pick up a bit. I'm looking forward to see videos by you in which I learn more and I have a feeling you have some and will have more as well.
Ammeters are connected in series so battery or ignition feeds one side of the Ampmeter and the other side goes to the rest of the car or a specific load that you're trying to measure
Very informative. Im pretty handy but electrical work confuses the #### out of me. Im wiring a 1951 chevy 3100 , restomod with a lot of modern day upgrades, such as a new 12v original style ignition switch ( on-off, with a simple momentary on pushbutton start )and stand alone 12v wire harness, 21 circuits but i am only using 17. Can you please show how to wire the headlight circuit. The light switch itself is a 2 step pull switch as like original but 12v , i have a dimmer switch on the floor , marker lights and dash lights that are to run off the same light switch. I also have to install a neutral safety / backup light switch at the transmission linkage . Its a lokar brand and i cant wrap my head around how it works. Basically it is a 2 lobe " bracket " that operates the switch in order to start when the automatic transmission is in park or neutral instead of any gear shift position, its a th350 if you need to know. I also have a meter matic ohm converter for my 0-90 ohm fuel sender and 0-30 ohm gauge to work together. Thank you so much
Hey bud, that's a lot of info that you need but I can tackle each one of those 1 by 1 in videos. Once you break it down wire by wire, its pretty simple.
Im new to wiring and stuff. Im installing 3 led kits all 12v. Gonna be using a 12 gauge wiring and hooking all of the kits to the single wiring into a 20 amp fuse tap. I did research and i shouldnt have to worry about my wire being too long right? Should I use a relay? Also cant i just connect all of my ground wire from my 3 led kits to the same ground wire or do they have to be separate for some reason?
The 3 grounds can all go to the same ground. That ones easy. The longer the wire, the more resistance thats gonna be in the wire so depending on the length and thickness, you could lose voltage by the time you get to where it needs to be. 12ga wire should be more than enough and for LED lights, you shouldnt need a relay
@@NightWrencher thanks man! Sorry if my questions seem dumb but is it ok using the 12 gauge connecting to the accessories, for example one of them is only 1 amp. I cut the cigarette plug should i use a smaller wire for it then connect that to my main 12 gauge line or can i just use 12 gauge connecting directly on that as well. Also i looked it up and it said 50 feets is when the resistance starts to cause issues, I should be fine with distance in the car right? Also can I hook all three wires between the accessories at one spot or should i spread each connection out through my main wire going to the fuse?
@Nodnarb69 I'll make a video about daisy chain wiring later one but you'll be ok regardless of what you do. The main thing is to focus on using the least amount of splices to get the job done. Depending on how you wire everything, it might be worth terminating the wire at the accesorie and then from there run another wire to the next accessory
Ok... Relay questions... I realize that electric cooling fans EACH need a relay as well as heater fans and horns.. Do headlights?? Simple blinker/stop/parking lights as well??
Hey man, I thought I answered this question but I guess not. The answer is yes. Ideally 1 relay per circuit. part 2 and 3 of this electrical series has been posted to my recent videos and one of them talks about relays! Feel free to check them out!
What I would do is follow the circuits all the way back and fuse the whole thing with 1 or 2 fuses. Depending on how you organize your wires, you don't need that many fuses
Interesting! Thank you. The car needs rewiring as some wire insulation is crumbling. I'm going to take your advice as it sounds much safer. It has a high pressure electric fuel pump for instance, and you would want that fused in case. Keep up the good work! You are obviously well trained. Thanks again. @@NightWrencher
Please explain why ?why??? Do they use a factory splice (No Pin Outs) somwhere in a wire lome. I mean all the technology to make multiconectors but for some unknown to me reason they cant put a single pin In with dual pin Out where it can be accessed without unwrapping half mile of a factory wire lome?????? Sorry for the rant brother diagnosing the bus system would make a great video especially now since my 2001 jeep cherokee seems to have no odometer or working gauges .
Regarding the "quality" of wires, I've seen more "jumper cables" being manufactured with CCAW (Copper Coated (Clad) Aluminum Wire) instead of pure copper wire!!! While being lighter (and CHEAPER!) the CCAW is an absolute *SAFETY HAZARD* as it *CANNOT* carry the same amount of amperage as a pure Copper wire!!!😳 Best source for pure Copper high amperage capable cable is a welding supply shop!!! Whether or not the shop carries the clamps you'll need to call them for that!!! I do know that they carry the ring terminal ends that they can crimp onto the ends of your new cable.
@@NightWrencher Yep!!! I "discovered" the issue also when I ordered a mini HitBox welder off of Amazon!!! Good welder, crap wire!!! Immediately hopped over to my local welding supply & got it replaced with *REAL* copper!!! Also got the weld leads a little bit longer!!! I'm guessing these mini box welder manufacturers cheap out on the wire for cost and weight savings--safety of the end user be damned!!!🙄
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Part 2 is finally here!: ruclips.net/video/yoew5ledH8w/видео.htmlsi=rf6E0raCwc_OnSYs
Great explanation. Thank you very much! I've dabbled in wiring before, but I've just looked on forums and copied what other people have done. I would like to put more trust into myself to use the right components. Enjoying the series!
Thank you! I appreciate it!
This is the first time I've really grasped the concept of wiring. Thank you; seriously, I really appreciate you taking the time to make this!
Thank you! That really means a lot! I'm glad it helped!
Thanks for sharing. I know nothing about electrical, but starting at the basics helps. I can say I knew more than I did. The visual really helps to understand better also! Thanks! 😃👍
Thank you, I really appreciate it!
Basics.is.good.for.we.beginners.need.more.basics.we.are.gett.ing.closer.teachers.of.youtube.iam.proud.of.learning.more.
Excellent video! Clearly and concisely explained and I learned a LOT!
You do explain in diy/ layman terms sir, thank you for this video, looking forward to part#2.
Part 2 is right here 👍 ruclips.net/video/yoew5ledH8w/видео.htmlsi=rf6E0raCwc_OnSYs
Nice to see comments also saying you explain thing very well ✅- just like you do in your welding video's / Teaching talent / Thanks for the video !
Thank you! I really appreciate it and theres more to come!
Excellent video super helpful brother...looking for a classic car wiring (part 2)? 😊
Thank you! I know, its coming out soon!
Great video. Best explaination I’ve seen so far. The visuals you drew helped beyond words
Thank man! I appreciate it, means a lot!
Great video on basic electronics. Perfect for my basic understanding. Perhaps a video on checking light bulb "before and after" as you mentioned.
Excellent idea, I'm working on it!
Nicely done, and well explained. Thanks for taking the time!
Thank you! I appreciate it!
This is the first video i saw made by you. Thank you for a good job and a very pleasant refreshing course. I did pick up a bit. I'm looking forward to see videos by you in which I learn more and I have a feeling you have some and will have more as well.
I will definately have more. I have videos on welding, holley carbs and some other stuff already on the channel 👍
Good video! Thanks for the information!!
Youre welcome! Hope it helps!
Great video mate
I appreciate it! Thank you!
Great video, can you perhaps explain how to connect an Ammeter?
Ammeters are connected in series so battery or ignition feeds one side of the Ampmeter and the other side goes to the rest of the car or a specific load that you're trying to measure
Appreciate this video!
Excellent job of explaining basic circuits.I found your flux core welding vids very useful., so subscribed. Thanks.
Thanks man, I'm glad my content is working for you 👍
Very informative. Im pretty handy but electrical work confuses the #### out of me. Im wiring a 1951 chevy 3100 , restomod with a lot of modern day upgrades, such as a new 12v original style ignition switch ( on-off, with a simple momentary on pushbutton start )and stand alone 12v wire harness, 21 circuits but i am only using 17. Can you please show how to wire the headlight circuit. The light switch itself is a 2 step pull switch as like original but 12v , i have a dimmer switch on the floor , marker lights and dash lights that are to run off the same light switch.
I also have to install a neutral safety / backup light switch at the transmission linkage . Its a lokar brand and i cant wrap my head around how it works. Basically it is a 2 lobe " bracket " that operates the switch in order to start when the automatic transmission is in park or neutral instead of any gear shift position, its a th350 if you need to know.
I also have a meter matic ohm converter for my 0-90 ohm fuel sender and 0-30 ohm gauge to work together. Thank you so much
Hey bud, that's a lot of info that you need but I can tackle each one of those 1 by 1 in videos. Once you break it down wire by wire, its pretty simple.
Thank you
I hope it helped! Part 2 and 3 are live! Check the recent videos
Im new to wiring and stuff. Im installing 3 led kits all 12v. Gonna be using a 12 gauge wiring and hooking all of the kits to the single wiring into a 20 amp fuse tap. I did research and i shouldnt have to worry about my wire being too long right? Should I use a relay? Also cant i just connect all of my ground wire from my 3 led kits to the same ground wire or do they have to be separate for some reason?
The 3 grounds can all go to the same ground. That ones easy. The longer the wire, the more resistance thats gonna be in the wire so depending on the length and thickness, you could lose voltage by the time you get to where it needs to be. 12ga wire should be more than enough and for LED lights, you shouldnt need a relay
@@NightWrencher thanks man! Sorry if my questions seem dumb but is it ok using the 12 gauge connecting to the accessories, for example one of them is only 1 amp. I cut the cigarette plug should i use a smaller wire for it then connect that to my main 12 gauge line or can i just use 12 gauge connecting directly on that as well. Also i looked it up and it said 50 feets is when the resistance starts to cause issues, I should be fine with distance in the car right? Also can I hook all three wires between the accessories at one spot or should i spread each connection out through my main wire going to the fuse?
@Nodnarb69 I'll make a video about daisy chain wiring later one but you'll be ok regardless of what you do. The main thing is to focus on using the least amount of splices to get the job done. Depending on how you wire everything, it might be worth terminating the wire at the accesorie and then from there run another wire to the next accessory
@@NightWrencher great. Yeah im just extremely nervous since i havent done this before. Thanks man i really appreciate it.
Best educational video I have watched but I cant find part 2
Part 2 Is right here 👍ruclips.net/video/yoew5ledH8w/видео.htmlsi=rf6E0raCwc_OnSYs
Ok... Relay questions...
I realize that electric cooling fans EACH need a relay as well as heater fans and horns.. Do headlights?? Simple blinker/stop/parking lights as well??
Hey man, I thought I answered this question but I guess not. The answer is yes. Ideally 1 relay per circuit. part 2 and 3 of this electrical series has been posted to my recent videos and one of them talks about relays! Feel free to check them out!
So if you were rewiring a 1968 Corvette vintage racer, it sounds like for safety you'd fuse anything where wire could get damaged and short out?
What I would do is follow the circuits all the way back and fuse the whole thing with 1 or 2 fuses. Depending on how you organize your wires, you don't need that many fuses
Interesting! Thank you. The car needs rewiring as some wire insulation is crumbling. I'm going to take your advice as it sounds much safer. It has a high pressure electric fuel pump for instance, and you would want that fused in case. Keep up the good work! You are obviously well trained. Thanks again. @@NightWrencher
Please explain why ?why???
Do they use a factory splice (No Pin Outs) somwhere in a wire lome. I mean all the technology to make multiconectors but for some unknown to me reason they cant put a single pin In with dual pin Out where it can be accessed without unwrapping half mile of a factory wire lome?????? Sorry for the rant brother diagnosing the bus system would make a great video especially now since my 2001 jeep cherokee seems to have no odometer or working gauges .
Its a mopar thing 🤣
Regarding the "quality" of wires, I've seen more "jumper cables" being manufactured with CCAW (Copper Coated (Clad) Aluminum Wire) instead of pure copper wire!!! While being lighter (and CHEAPER!) the CCAW is an absolute *SAFETY HAZARD* as it *CANNOT* carry the same amount of amperage as a pure Copper wire!!!😳 Best source for pure Copper high amperage capable cable is a welding supply shop!!! Whether or not the shop carries the clamps you'll need to call them for that!!! I do know that they carry the ring terminal ends that they can crimp onto the ends of your new cable.
I've seen that too actually. I reuse OEM wires frequently so I'm not too concerned with quality but all the aftermarket parts come with cheap wire.
@@NightWrencher Yep!!! I "discovered" the issue also when I ordered a mini HitBox welder off of Amazon!!! Good welder, crap wire!!! Immediately hopped over to my local welding supply & got it replaced with *REAL* copper!!! Also got the weld leads a little bit longer!!! I'm guessing these mini box welder manufacturers cheap out on the wire for cost and weight savings--safety of the end user be damned!!!🙄
Where’s part two 😢😢😢😢😢
I know, I've gotta finish editing it. I'll hurry it up for you !
Finally its finished man 👍
ruclips.net/video/yoew5ledH8w/видео.htmlsi=rf6E0raCwc_OnSYs
Remember our skin has hi-resistant flow art low voltage