A pleasure to see someone who blends hand and machine work so well! Making the clicks on the lathe is a nice choice. I've cut many from flat stock, but being able to groove the click spring slot as part of the turning operation is a nice little trick I'll keep in mind when dealing with curved clicks. Your use of a 5C sacrificial collet is nice, parts of this size I do on a Taig with full surround soft jaws rather on one of the larger lathes. Far too few folks appreciate the benefits of soft jaw / sacrificial work holding methods for maintaining concentricity while allowing dechucking. The hands appear to be bone, as you suspect. If the customer approves (and it is consistent with your standards) denture cleaning tablets in solution clean these up very nicely without making them silly new white. Quite often I see these badly stained, soaked with oil, and with the surface loaded with grime. I'm guessing you already cleaned the hands with your default solvent of choice? Great video, I've enjoyed many of your posts. Thank You!
Hi Stan, thank you for the nice comments. A little creativity can go a long way. As for the hands we had determined a light brushing, very light cleaning is sufficient, the reason is if I cleaned the hands and change the apperance then we are looking at doing the same with the numbers on the dial and that could pose potential issues as they are very delicate....It can be a fine line when debating about how far to go with with cleaning case parts, in my mind....I do appreciate the the idea of using the denture tablets that makes sense, and now we have another creative idea under the belt...thats why we do this right?...Thank you...and have a great day, William
Fantastic coverage of exactly what I wanted to know as my cuckoo that I just got has that problem. Being as Im just starting out to repair a few clocks I picked up over the years that conked out on me this is my question....unfortunately you didnt show the disassembly and re assembly, which is my crucial first step so Im stuck on first base not knowing what to expect when I start the disassembly. Will alll the wheels etc stay in position when I remove the back plate or is everything going to fall out of position?Thanks, John....hope you check for comments:)
Hey John, just saw your comment, Thanks, as for starting out in clock repair and dealing with a unfamiliar movement I always say...study study study BEFORE disassembly. Make sure you have a good idea on how things are functioning and interacting with each other. Set up the movement outside of the case and run it while watching everything do its thing...Also take photos as you disassemble, lot of photos with different angle can really be helpful. By all means take your time and have fun. William
Nice work and well explained methods. You bushed the centre of the drive wheels, are they friction fit or do you use solder or some form of adhesive to secure them? Keep up the great work. All the best James Truesdale. (N Ireland)
Hey Jim, thanks for the kind comment. I wanted to make sure they would stay put but I didnt want to heat them up or distort the center hole by rivetting or any form of setting into place so I friction fit them (very snug fit) with a bit of high strength loctite. May be a bit overboard for the function of a bushing.... There may be a bit of a controversy using the loctite. I have experimented with it and it can be very strong if the fit is correct. I prefer a mechanical fit to stay along the original lines of construction. Have a fantastic day, William
Thanks for the comments, nice to see old craftsmanship (as fragile as these hands are) still around. I always imagine someone in a candle lit room, wood floor, hunched over their bench creating parts for a clock.
I absolutely love this video!! Extremely high quality workmanship here. Great work!!
A pleasure to see someone who blends hand and machine work so well! Making the clicks on the lathe is a nice choice. I've cut many from flat stock, but being able to groove the click spring slot as part of the turning operation is a nice little trick I'll keep in mind when dealing with curved clicks. Your use of a 5C sacrificial collet is nice, parts of this size I do on a Taig with full surround soft jaws rather on one of the larger lathes. Far too few folks appreciate the benefits of soft jaw / sacrificial work holding methods for maintaining concentricity while allowing dechucking. The hands appear to be bone, as you suspect. If the customer approves (and it is consistent with your standards) denture cleaning tablets in solution clean these up very nicely without making them silly new white. Quite often I see these badly stained, soaked with oil, and with the surface loaded with grime. I'm guessing you already cleaned the hands with your default solvent of choice? Great video, I've enjoyed many of your posts. Thank You!
Hi Stan, thank you for the nice comments. A little creativity can go a long way. As for the hands we had determined a light brushing, very light cleaning is sufficient, the reason is if I cleaned the hands and change the apperance then we are looking at doing the same with the numbers on the dial and that could pose potential issues as they are very delicate....It can be a fine line when debating about how far to go with with cleaning case parts, in my mind....I do appreciate the the idea of using the denture tablets that makes sense, and now we have another creative idea under the belt...thats why we do this right?...Thank you...and have a great day, William
very interesting video William, also nice to see those old movements!
Thank you Hemi. Yes...oldies but goodies, fun to work on.
Great repair. Excellent idea, making clicks on the lathe.
Thanks lester grenz, have a great day.
Fantastic coverage of exactly what I wanted to know as my cuckoo that I just got has that problem. Being as Im just starting out to repair a few clocks I picked up over the years that conked out on me this is my question....unfortunately you didnt show the disassembly and re assembly, which is my crucial first step so Im stuck on first base not knowing what to expect when I start the disassembly. Will alll the wheels etc stay in position when I remove the back plate or is everything going to fall out of position?Thanks, John....hope you check for comments:)
Hey John, just saw your comment, Thanks, as for starting out in clock repair and dealing with a unfamiliar movement I always say...study study study BEFORE disassembly. Make sure you have a good idea on how things are functioning and interacting with each other. Set up the movement outside of the case and run it while watching everything do its thing...Also take photos as you disassemble, lot of photos with different angle can really be helpful. By all means take your time and have fun. William
Nice work and well explained methods. You bushed the centre of the drive wheels, are they friction fit or do you use solder or some form of adhesive to secure them?
Keep up the great work. All the best
James Truesdale. (N Ireland)
Hey Jim, thanks for the kind comment. I wanted to make sure they would stay put but I didnt want to heat them up or distort the center hole by rivetting or any form of setting into place so I friction fit them (very snug fit) with a bit of high strength loctite. May be a bit overboard for the function of a bushing.... There may be a bit of a controversy using the loctite. I have experimented with it and it can be very strong if the fit is correct. I prefer a mechanical fit to stay along the original lines of construction. Have a fantastic day, William
Дякую вам за працю 😊❤
Nice Job !
Those hands are the Real Deal !
Thanks for the comments, nice to see old craftsmanship (as fragile as these hands are) still around. I always imagine someone in a candle lit room, wood floor, hunched over their bench creating parts for a clock.
Dr.Pol of Clocks...