Cleaned, fabricated a warning wire, explain workings, assemble movement. Clock was shipped for repair without wood carvings so not able to show them in video.
James, Thank you, This is exactly what I was looking for. You went step by step and made the process easy to understand. You are a MASTER CLOCKMAKER. I really appreciate you doing this. I hope all of your subscribers will benefit from this video. Love your videos. I have seen all of them at least once, some twice! Please PM me so that we can work out a return and other details. Thanks again Bob
Thanks Mark, Its a time saver, when this movement went together it worked immediately , with no need for adjustments to any of the gears or levers. Thanks again Jim
@@jamesmartin5370 again I like the idea. I work on cuckoo clocks and other clocks that I own. Sometimes getting the gears to match up can be aggravating. This is a great idea and I can see how it does save time. Thanks. BTW if you are on face book you can ask to join my group. It is Collections: Antiques and Vintage of all sorts but mainly wind up clocks. There I help out a lot of people. I am mainly known for helping people with cuckoo clocks.
You should get one and do a dissemble and assemble. Ones like this are tougher that have had items altered in an un orthodox way. They end up coming to you tweaked out of adjustment to the point where they won't run unless parts are fabricated, rebuilt and put back to original shape. With only one plate holding everything together instead of multiple plates, all rods, levers and gear sequences need to be spot on or they won't function as designed.
As a side note, good job on that 1941 Seth Thomas Navy clock. Tried to leave a reply for you on that video but couldn't get it work. You were wondering what was on the hands of that ships clock, below link may indicate type of finish on the hands: www.nrc.gov/docs/ML1627/ML16277A315.pdf
I think you are amazing, but the sound of the wire strike should be more resonant. It's a simple matter of adjusting the hammer striking the gong. I noticed a similar thing on an old Junghans restoration. Mechanically it was great, but you failed to tune the hammer strike to the rod to get a resonant sound. I have learned a great deal from your videos and I hope you continue to share your vast knowledge.
Hi James, You did this clock for me.You did a great job. I have a Waterbury BIM BAM movement, no case ,that I would like you to do a video like this one. Let me know if you would consider doing it. If you would, send me your address. I will handle a donation. thanks Bob
To me the most interesting thing about this video was your use of assemblers putty. Where did you get it? I looked on Timesavers and Merritt's and it doesn't look like they have it. Also is this movement a one day movement? Based on the number of gears that would be my guess. Your videos are excellent.
Yes, its a one day movement. The assembler's putty, I picked up when I took a horology course in the 1970s. It came from our local wholesaler for watch & clock parts; they are no longer in business. It needs to have enough tack to adhere to the parts to hold them in place but not enough tack to stick and leave parts of it behind on the movement. The stuff I have is not the same but very similar to rodico putty and cleaner sold for watch and clock cleaning. It has saved me a lot of time and is easier on the nerves trying to keep parts and gears from rotating and falling out of where they were just placed. This clock went together and worked right the first time, didn't have to go back in and rotate gears back and forth to get pins and lock levers aligned.
Hi James - this is a superb video and has been very helpful to me. I have a question relative to cleaning. Some of the older cuckoo movements have cast brass plates and gears. Is it safe to clean them in an ammoniated solution? I have read conflicting information about this. I would appreciate your thoughts and recommendation. Thank you!
Brass is an alloy. Popular clock brasses are alloys called 535 and 360, there are others but these are ones used a lot. Main metals used in brass are copper, zinc, tin, lead, aluminum, and smaller amounts of others. With all alloys, cleaning is a give an take, aim for a cleaner that is right for the highest % of the metals used in the alloy. The lesser % metals in the alloy may not have a good response to the cleaner and are usually ignored. When processing sheet brass, raw forged brass is run through rollers, compressed and all air pockets and such have been eliminated. Ammoniated cleaners work well on sheet brass and can be cleaned off completely with minimal negative effects to the lower % of metals in the alloy. When processing Cast brass, raw forged brass is usually hammered to a useful thickness, not all porosity and air pockets can be eliminated in cast bass because rollers are not used. Ammoniated cleaners may soak into porosity and air pocket areas of cast brass and remain there after the piece is rinsed. I feel it would be best to clean cast brass with something other than Ammoniated solution. Cleaning product used is dependent on the % mix of metals in the alloy. Unfortunately its next to next to impossible for us to know specific alloy mix used in vintage pieces unless tested and its going too far to do this. In my opinion, I wouldn't use ammoniated cleaners on cast brass parts. For cast brass, I believe safest would be to use a solvent cleaner or detergent, buff by hand if you want a shine to it, then clean again after the buff. A clear coat can be applied if you want to prevent it from tarnishing.
Hi James - I have one more question: I am assembling an older (1900) cuckoo clock movement that has a count wheel. I have followed the instructions (very helpful!) for the strike side as you described on this cuckoo quail movement. The cam and locking arm are in the correct position and the stop pin is against the locking arm when the cam and locking arm are engaged. When I tested the movement at a slow speed, the locking works just fine. But if the strike is running at the speed it would in the running clock, the strike will not lock. Do you have any thoughts on what might be out of adjustment? Thank you.
@@clocker5147 I am having a similar problem. I have the same movement as shown in this video. On James' video, everything locks when he does a test. I don't see any spring,etc that makes the locking arm snap into place against the cam as shown in the video! What am I missing here?
Thank you for this detailed video, It has been very helpful. I have one question though. Do you know the exact BPH of this movement? I have everything going great except I'm shooting in the dark about setting the beat rate. I have a timegrapher app so I can get it pretty accurate. Thank you.
I don't know exact beat. I sometimes mark the pendulum shaft with a piece of tape before you move the pendulum bob, the tape then can be used as an index mark. It helps get the pendulum set where it needs to be faster
I purchased that putty from a local watch and clock distributor years ago, they are no longer in business. I have not seen any since, is non oil base. Does not stick to parts or leave any residue. It does not have a brand name.
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James, Thank you, This is exactly what I was looking for. You went step by step and made the process easy to understand.
You are a MASTER CLOCKMAKER. I really appreciate you doing this. I hope all of your subscribers will benefit from this video.
Love your videos. I have seen all of them at least once, some twice!
Please PM me so that we can work out a return and other details.
Thanks again Bob
Good job in showing this video. I like the way that you used the putty to prevent the gears and parts from moving.
Thanks Mark,
Its a time saver, when this movement went together it worked immediately , with no need for adjustments to any of the gears or levers.
Thanks again
Jim
@@jamesmartin5370 again I like the idea. I work on cuckoo clocks and other clocks that I own. Sometimes getting the gears to match up can be aggravating. This is a great idea and I can see how it does save time. Thanks. BTW if you are on face book you can ask to join my group. It is Collections: Antiques and Vintage of all sorts but mainly wind up clocks. There I help out a lot of people. I am mainly known for helping people with cuckoo clocks.
I had no idea it was this complex to adjust the cuckoo clock to work properly. Amazing step by step. Thank you James
You should get one and do a dissemble and assemble.
Ones like this are tougher that have had items altered in an un orthodox way.
They end up coming to you tweaked out of adjustment to the point where they won't run unless parts are fabricated, rebuilt and put back to original shape.
With only one plate holding everything together instead of multiple plates, all rods, levers and gear sequences need to be spot on or they won't function as designed.
As a side note, good job on that 1941 Seth Thomas Navy clock. Tried to leave a reply for you on that video but couldn't get it work.
You were wondering what was on the hands of that ships clock, below link may indicate type of finish on the hands:
www.nrc.gov/docs/ML1627/ML16277A315.pdf
@@jamesmartin5370 I've been trying to a while to find a well priced movement but no luck so far. Will keep trying
@@jamesmartin5370 Thank you for watching, I'm honored. Thank you for the info
Keep up the videos ! Your the best clockmaker I found on youtube and I look forward to your new releases, love the restoration videos!
Thanks Matthew,
Amazing! Thank you for posting.
Thanks Paul
Thankyou James for yet another wonderful video and so well explained. Jim from AUSTRALIA.
Excellent video thank you so much for making and sharing. Much appreciated.
Great channel and great videos!! It's interesting to see how these work and I appreciate your skill and knowledge. Thanks for sharing!
that was awesome ...and very complicated!!!
Many parts, all need to be in place at time of assembly or the plates need to be separated and start over....
Once again, another great video.
Great job
BTW I tagged your channel in the end screen of me working on a 1950s Hubert Herr cuckoo quail clock.
Hope it helps to make things work smooth with yours.
I think you are amazing, but the sound of the wire strike should be more resonant. It's a simple matter of adjusting the hammer striking the gong. I noticed a similar thing on an old Junghans restoration. Mechanically it was great, but you failed to tune the hammer strike to the rod to get a resonant sound. I have learned a great deal from your videos and I hope you continue to share your vast knowledge.
Thanks, I will pay more attention to tuning those hammers and rods from now on.
Hi James, You did this clock for me.You did a great job.
I have a Waterbury BIM BAM movement, no case ,that I would like you to do a video like this one.
Let me know if you would consider doing it. If you would, send me your address.
I will handle a donation. thanks Bob
I am several months out with jobs at the moment.
Send me an image of movement to jamesmart55@hotmail.com I will get back to you on repair cost.
Дякую вам за працю 😊❤
Приємно, що вам сподобалося відео, дякую
That’s awesome thanks for sharing
Você é um mestre. Que pena que eu não posso ser seu amigo. Eu também trabalho com relógios, mas não trabalho por dinheiro.
Obrigado,
Que bom que você gostou.
James I forgot to ask about the assemblers putty. Can you tell me where I can get it?
Thanks
Is it like Rodico?
Yes very similar, non-oil base, non-slumping holds its form once placed.
Wow 🥰👍😍👏💪
In this video, you reference the use of "assemblers putty". Can you tell us what exactly that is and where to purchase it? Thank you!!
The company I purchased it from is no longer in business.
It is similar to Watchmakers Putty, something like Rodico will perform the same.
To me the most interesting thing about this video was your use of assemblers putty. Where did you get it? I looked on Timesavers and Merritt's and it doesn't look like they have it. Also is this movement a one day movement? Based on the number of gears that would be my guess. Your videos are excellent.
Yes, its a one day movement.
The assembler's putty, I picked up when I took a horology course in the 1970s.
It came from our local wholesaler for watch & clock parts; they are no longer in business.
It needs to have enough tack to adhere to the parts to hold them in place but not enough tack to stick and leave parts of it behind on the movement.
The stuff I have is not the same but very similar to rodico putty and cleaner sold for watch and clock cleaning.
It has saved me a lot of time and is easier on the nerves trying to keep parts and gears from rotating and falling out of where they were just placed.
This clock went together and worked right the first time, didn't have to go back in and rotate gears back and forth to get pins and lock levers aligned.
Hi James - this is a superb video and has been very helpful to me. I have a question relative to cleaning. Some of the older cuckoo movements have cast brass plates and gears. Is it safe to clean them in an ammoniated solution? I have read conflicting information about this. I would appreciate your thoughts and recommendation. Thank you!
Brass is an alloy.
Popular clock brasses are alloys called 535 and 360, there are others but these are ones used a lot.
Main metals used in brass are copper, zinc, tin, lead, aluminum, and smaller amounts of others.
With all alloys, cleaning is a give an take, aim for a cleaner that is right for the highest % of the metals used in the alloy.
The lesser % metals in the alloy may not have a good response to the cleaner and are usually ignored.
When processing sheet brass, raw forged brass is run through rollers, compressed and all air pockets and such have been eliminated.
Ammoniated cleaners work well on sheet brass and can be cleaned off completely with minimal negative effects to the lower % of metals in the alloy.
When processing Cast brass, raw forged brass is usually hammered to a useful thickness, not all porosity and air pockets can be eliminated in cast bass because rollers are not used.
Ammoniated cleaners may soak into porosity and air pocket areas of cast brass and remain there after the piece is rinsed.
I feel it would be best to clean cast brass with something other than Ammoniated solution.
Cleaning product used is dependent on the % mix of metals in the alloy.
Unfortunately its next to next to impossible for us to know specific alloy mix used in vintage pieces unless tested and its going too far to do this.
In my opinion, I wouldn't use ammoniated cleaners on cast brass parts.
For cast brass, I believe safest would be to use a solvent cleaner or detergent, buff by hand if you want a shine to it, then clean again after the buff.
A clear coat can be applied if you want to prevent it from tarnishing.
@@jamesmartin5370 Thanks James..that's what I'll do....
Hi James - I have one more question: I am assembling an older (1900) cuckoo clock movement that has a count wheel. I have followed the instructions (very helpful!) for the strike side as you described on this cuckoo quail movement. The cam and locking arm are in the correct position and the stop pin is against the locking arm when the cam and locking arm are engaged. When I tested the movement at a slow speed, the locking works just fine. But if the strike is running at the speed it would in the running clock, the strike will not lock. Do you have any thoughts on what might be out of adjustment? Thank you.
PS - I can send you a video if that would be helpful...
@@clocker5147 I am having a similar problem. I have the same movement as shown in this video. On James' video, everything locks when he does a test. I don't see any spring,etc that makes the locking arm snap into place against the cam as shown in the video! What am I missing here?
Thank you for this detailed video, It has been very helpful. I have one question though. Do you know the exact BPH of this movement? I have everything going great except I'm shooting in the dark about setting the beat rate. I have a timegrapher app so I can get it pretty accurate. Thank you.
I don't know exact beat.
I sometimes mark the pendulum shaft with a piece of tape before you move the pendulum bob, the tape then can be used as an index mark.
It helps get the pendulum set where it needs to be faster
@@jamesmartin5370 sadly, mine was a box of pieces. I'm nearly there. When I get it dialed in with an exact number, I'll let you know. Thank you. 😁👍
Where do you but assembly putty, does it have a brand name ?
I purchased that putty from a local watch and clock distributor years ago, they are no longer in business.
I have not seen any since, is non oil base.
Does not stick to parts or leave any residue.
It does not have a brand name.
Thank you for your reply and for a first class video.
Я таких годинників з зозулею з четвертями ще не бачив,мені є чому повчитися у вас,а скільки коштує такий годинник і як його назва😊
Називається годинник із зозулею-перепілкою. Ви можете виконати пошук в Інтернеті та знайти їх у продажу.
@@jamesmartin5370 дякую вам
Це зозуля,яка кує кожну чверть,чи як😊
Та зозуля щокує
31:01
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