Thanks for posting that solution. I've been struggling with Cura skipping some sections and returning to them later. I couldn't figure it out. Thanks again.
It won't help with the rings on a domed print, but adaptive layers are designed to do exactly that. I have a video on how to use adaptive layers. Link ruclips.net/video/kuyvxP_5nmc/видео.html
@@pushingplastic7445 I do, but I actually don't care about surface finish nearly enough, and I try not to print test pieces that I don't strictly need, filament costs money. It keeps me on my toes guessing what part will break or disassemble itself next. It's a DIY one which means it's full of my shitty ideas and experiments and I've had it for 6 years now.
Another video from you explaining EXACTLY what I was looking for. I wanted to "iron" the very last layer of my prints, or at least make it "flat" because complete ironing method looks different. Just tested out your method on the calibration cube and, wow. It works ! Will test on actual 3D models that could receive such process.
Hello Bill,my name is Marco,thanks for your teaching. My question is, I must do all those tricks together or testing one by one looking what's is good or not? Sorry my English im from Brasil.
No. You don't have to follow them all. Like the top layer direction, you don't have to change that. I do change the inner wall setting to 0.32, my top surface skin width to 0.12, my top surface skin layer I set to 2. The skin overlap percentage, you can leave that alone, or only change it if you have too. You don't have to print after each setting change. Just make the change in the slicer, slice the model and look at the preview to how it is affecting the model. I hope this helps.
Appreciate the video. I'm fairly uninformed on 3D printing and I find even if I don't know a situation I could use this, simply becoming more familiar with how various parameters work will help in the long run. Keep doing what you do.
Thanks for the helpful videos. I’m a newby to 3D printing so I hope you don’t mind a basic question. I have a Finder-3 and I slice with the manufacturer’s software “Flashprint”. However, I’d like to use Cura so I can follow along with your videos. Would the G-code from Cura cause any problems with my Finder-3print?
No. You can use any slicer with any printer. There can be variations in profiles, options, etc but you won't break anything. I started 3d a year ago and was in the same question mode. I have used every single slicer I could tinker with... no real issues other than, the advice is to stock with just one until you master it. Then move on.
Finder 3, that's a Flashforge brand? Correct? You should be good to go with Cura! Flashforge has a document on their website for adding the Finder 3 to Cura as a printer. en.fss.flashforge.com/10000/software/49c31069aa6631421478727c4b4c8506.pdf
I can understand that! I just released a simular video last night about top layers for people using Creality Print as their slicer. I have at least 27 different test pieces I ran during the research phase trying to find a good combination of settings. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Tried this and worked out well, but I’ve been getting a line/gap/separation on the outside side wall when it goes to start the top layer from main infill 15% density to start of Top solid layer. Any ideas? I’m using Cura.
i used to be able to print 65 degree over hang but after haveing to changeing hot end now can only print 30 degree can't fix the problem can't finf videos on it and can't get no help on it so if enyone sees this please contact me
I see this, sadly I don't have an answer at this time. I'll do some testing and see if I can help. I can't promise to solve it but I'll what I might be able to figure out. What printer are you using and what hot end did you change too?
To be honest, I think if your infill is showing, you have bigger issues. Fix those first instead of trying to hide the imperfections. Also, don't try to save time in 3D printing by reducing top layers too much. Four top layers at 0.2mm height is only 0.8mm. For parts where some strenght matters, that's just too weak. As for the suggested settings to improve top layer quality: You're almost mimicing ironing (line width, overlap). Why not just go with that?
The infill showing was because of all top layers running the same direction, is was shown for demonstration purposes,. Perhaps you missed that? Also, 4 Top/Bottom layers were shown since that is Cura's default. If you watch my previous videos on top layers, I mention that 4 top layers is more of a minimum than a default. This video was about closing gaps. You'll also notice that I discuss ironing in that video.
@@pushingplastic7445 I get that. But all top layers running in the same direction is not the default. The Cura tooltip for Top/Bottom Line Directions even says so: "... Default is an empty list which means use the traditional default angles (45 and 135 degrees)."
@@dieterbulcke Again, it was shown for demonstration purposes. You might not print at [0,90] , I do. Others do as well. Cura has a lot of options for a lot of different purposes. Are there times when I print at 45 degrees? Yep. There are times when I don't. But, you can apply the same method at 45 and 135 degrees to get smoother looking top layers. Infact, the before an after images on the thumbnail are at 45 and 135. Don't limit yourself to Cura's default settings. They are a starting point.
@@pushingplastic7445 So in fact you made a video about 1. creating a problem that nobody has: you set ALL your line directions to one angle (90°) , instead of different angles (the default in all slicers). 49s in to the video (ruclips.net/video/hKx0CbH32GM/видео.html) 2. fixing that problem Look, I've seen a few of your video's and I liked them. But what I don't like is creating content for the sake of it. This video only creates unnecessary confusion.
@@dieterbulcke It might not be a problem for you, but it did help out a few people. How many have you helped out today. Obviously, you didn't watch the video, if you did, you didn't pay attention. At 1:06 into the video I state, that "In fairness, I don't print with my lines like that. I'll use an orientation of [0,90]" You don't like the video, no problem, I'm good with that. Leave your snarky comment, hit the dislike button and move on. For some reason you feel the need to argue about it all day. It has nothing to do with content creation, I haven't made a dime on these videos.
I was having a fill problem with a small print and found this! Thank You! This worked great in Ideamaker!
Great! I'm glad to hear that!!! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting that solution. I've been struggling with Cura skipping some sections and returning to them later. I couldn't figure it out. Thanks again.
I'm glad it helped! Thanks for watching!!!
Thats brilliant help. Thanks. Will this help with the rings on the top of domed prints?
It won't help with the rings on a domed print, but adaptive layers are designed to do exactly that. I have a video on how to use adaptive layers. Link ruclips.net/video/kuyvxP_5nmc/видео.html
No print examples? How do the dense top skin lines look in real?
Got a printer? Give it a try!
@@pushingplastic7445 I do, but I actually don't care about surface finish nearly enough, and I try not to print test pieces that I don't strictly need, filament costs money. It keeps me on my toes guessing what part will break or disassemble itself next. It's a DIY one which means it's full of my shitty ideas and experiments and I've had it for 6 years now.
Another video from you explaining EXACTLY what I was looking for. I wanted to "iron" the very last layer of my prints, or at least make it "flat" because complete ironing method looks different. Just tested out your method on the calibration cube and, wow. It works ! Will test on actual 3D models that could receive such process.
That’s great! I’m glad these are helping!
@@pushingplastic7445 Keep sharing the good vibes, straight to the point. Good job sir !
Do you still need to iron or is it smooth enough?
Hello Bill,my name is Marco,thanks for your teaching.
My question is, I must do all those tricks together or testing one by one looking what's is good or not?
Sorry my English im from Brasil.
No. You don't have to follow them all. Like the top layer direction, you don't have to change that. I do change the inner wall setting to 0.32, my top surface skin width to 0.12, my top surface skin layer I set to 2. The skin overlap percentage, you can leave that alone, or only change it if you have too. You don't have to print after each setting change. Just make the change in the slicer, slice the model and look at the preview to how it is affecting the model. I hope this helps.
Wow, thank you so much for this tutorial! Just perfectly solved my problem.
That is great to know! Thanks for those kind words and thanks for watching!!!
Ill be giving this a go tonight, hopefully will fix my top layer gapping problem, thanks so much for your video! @pushingplastic7445
Appreciate the video. I'm fairly uninformed on 3D printing and I find even if I don't know a situation I could use this, simply becoming more familiar with how various parameters work will help in the long run. Keep doing what you do.
Thanks for watching & the kind words are much appreciated! Thanks!
Thanks for the helpful videos. I’m a newby to 3D printing so I hope you don’t mind a basic question. I have a Finder-3 and I slice with the manufacturer’s software “Flashprint”. However, I’d like to use Cura so I can follow along with your videos. Would the G-code from Cura cause any problems with my Finder-3print?
No.
You can use any slicer with any printer. There can be variations in profiles, options, etc but you won't break anything.
I started 3d a year ago and was in the same question mode. I have used every single slicer I could tinker with... no real issues other than, the advice is to stock with just one until you master it. Then move on.
Finder 3, that's a Flashforge brand? Correct? You should be good to go with Cura! Flashforge has a document on their website for adding the Finder 3 to Cura as a printer. en.fss.flashforge.com/10000/software/49c31069aa6631421478727c4b4c8506.pdf
@@pushingplastic7445 thanks so much! I had no idea.
@@MrRwillis59 Hope it helps! And thanks you so much for watching!
@@graphguy Excellent advise!
Absolutely amazing! Thank you!
Can you do the same for the bottom layer skin?
You sure can!!!
Thanks man, I'm going to give this a try. I'm losing my mind with my Tronxy and it's top layers looking like crap lol.
I can understand that! I just released a simular video last night about top layers for people using Creality Print as their slicer. I have at least 27 different test pieces I ran during the research phase trying to find a good combination of settings. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Thank You very much 😊
This was excellent!
Thanks for those excellent words! And thanks for watching!
Tried this and worked out well, but I’ve been getting a line/gap/separation on the outside side wall when it goes to start the top layer from main infill 15% density to start of Top solid layer. Any ideas? I’m using Cura.
Good information, I'll give it a try. Thank you. By the way Bill, the haircut looks good!! LOL!
Thanks! I was way past due for that!!
thank you, very helpful
Thanks! And thank you for watching!
Great video! 👏👏👏
thanks. give it a go tonight
I want better bottom layers between support and print.
I have video on the channel that helps with better top & bottom layers. It might help! ruclips.net/video/fMHSsfYNino/видео.html
@@pushingplastic7445 thanks
Thank you
Using Orca, I set Top Surface to 50% and much success thank you for the info
Oh my goodness! I've been noticing this issue on my prints for months and didn't even know how to ask the question! Thank you!!
Pushing P! Learned so much from your videos!
Awesome! Thanks for those kind words & thank you so very much for watching!
nice
Thanks for watching! I hope it helps!
i used to be able to print 65 degree over hang but after haveing to changeing hot end now can only print 30 degree can't fix the problem can't finf videos on it and can't get no help on it so if enyone sees this please contact me
I see this, sadly I don't have an answer at this time. I'll do some testing and see if I can help. I can't promise to solve it but I'll what I might be able to figure out. What printer are you using and what hot end did you change too?
To be honest, I think if your infill is showing, you have bigger issues. Fix those first instead of trying to hide the imperfections.
Also, don't try to save time in 3D printing by reducing top layers too much. Four top layers at 0.2mm height is only 0.8mm. For parts where some strenght matters, that's just too weak.
As for the suggested settings to improve top layer quality: You're almost mimicing ironing (line width, overlap). Why not just go with that?
The infill showing was because of all top layers running the same direction, is was shown for demonstration purposes,. Perhaps you missed that? Also, 4 Top/Bottom layers were shown since that is Cura's default. If you watch my previous videos on top layers, I mention that 4 top layers is more of a minimum than a default. This video was about closing gaps. You'll also notice that I discuss ironing in that video.
@@pushingplastic7445 I get that. But all top layers running in the same direction is not the default. The Cura tooltip for Top/Bottom Line Directions even says so: "... Default is an empty list which means use the traditional default angles (45 and 135 degrees)."
@@dieterbulcke Again, it was shown for demonstration purposes. You might not print at [0,90] , I do. Others do as well. Cura has a lot of options for a lot of different purposes. Are there times when I print at 45 degrees? Yep. There are times when I don't. But, you can apply the same method at 45 and 135 degrees to get smoother looking top layers. Infact, the before an after images on the thumbnail are at 45 and 135. Don't limit yourself to Cura's default settings. They are a starting point.
@@pushingplastic7445 So in fact you made a video about
1. creating a problem that nobody has: you set ALL your line directions to one angle (90°) , instead of different angles (the default in all slicers). 49s in to the video (ruclips.net/video/hKx0CbH32GM/видео.html)
2. fixing that problem
Look, I've seen a few of your video's and I liked them. But what I don't like is creating content for the sake of it. This video only creates unnecessary confusion.
@@dieterbulcke It might not be a problem for you, but it did help out a few people. How many have you helped out today. Obviously, you didn't watch the video, if you did, you didn't pay attention. At 1:06 into the video I state, that "In fairness, I don't print with my lines like that. I'll use an orientation of [0,90]" You don't like the video, no problem, I'm good with that. Leave your snarky comment, hit the dislike button and move on. For some reason you feel the need to argue about it all day. It has nothing to do with content creation, I haven't made a dime on these videos.