Making a Replacement Glass Chart for an Optical Comparator | Lufkin Ultrascope 1200A | MicroVu 400
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- Today we're making a replacement glass chart for a Lufkin Ultrascope 1200A / MicroVu 400 optical comparator. This comparator was an eBay find that is badly in need of some love. We'll design some artwork in Fusion 360, and use LightBurn to burn it into glass with CerMark and an xTool D1 laser.
Items used in this video:
*This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated
Makeblock xTool D1 Laser (Amazon*): amzn.to/3J5R3in
Makeblock xTool D1 Laser (xTool*): bit.ly/3LCvbwG
CerMark Laser Marking Aerosol (Amazon*): amzn.to/3uOdGTm
00:00 Intro
00:37 The Comparator
03:18 Creating the Artwork
16:06 Preparing the LightBurn File
19:53 Spraying CerMark
21:18 Burning the Glass
25:42 Washing off the Cermark
27:08 Examining the Markings
28:40 Frosting the Glass
29:06 Examining the Finished Charts
31:16 Testing in the Comparator
Raw Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
creativecommons.org/licenses/b...
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James, while the error may only be slight, spacing your 40 arcs that way isnt spacing them at 0.1 inch, because the point is offset from the centre line, the measurement will be the tangent length of the point from the centre, so your arc spacing will be something like 0.101" (no I havent worked out exactly the measurement)
Oh, hey! You're right. They'll be slightly too close to the center. The larger arcs will be closer than the smaller ones. Good catch!
Edit: still wrong. They'll be slightly too far from the center
@@Clough42 you cant really tell I used to be a drawing office manager, and checking drawings for years can you.
@@grendel1960a a valuable skill!
@@Clough42 I thought that might have been that single metric entry in the parameters?
@@BrianBoniMakes nope. I was designing the chart to match the original, which was all in inches. When I added the locating circle around the outside, I picked a distance of 1mm because that intuitively felt like the right distance. I sometimes mixe units just to troll people, but this time I was just working fluidity in both systems without thinking about it.
And just like that, James has a new business supplying folks wanting to restore their comparator. This was a really cool video, I have zero experience with CNC lasers and it's interesting to see what can be done.
I had the same thought as soon as he laid out the plan. James has a new side gig! One that many will be so happy to pay for. I would not have thought a diode laser was capable of marking glass like that.
I continue to be blown away with what technology has give us. For not much money in equipment ( but lots of know how) you can produce some amazing things that were unheard of for a hobbyist not so long ago. Very informative and interesting thanks.
This is what I love about this hobby. Technology that would have cost six figures in an industrial setting not too long ago is now available at consumer-grade prices or on the used market. It's not industrial quality, but it's accessible for the hobbyist.
Never thought i'd be recommended a video on an optical comparator. I used to work in precision manufacturing, dealing with tungsten carbide parts and tooling, and let me tell you... I wore a groove down in the factory floor between by workstation and the comparator with diamond paste. Granted, the one we used was the size of a small car, lol. We never had issues with the charts availability, the bulb, however... I remember cost us over several thousands of dollars to replace.
This was an amazing method to remake an unobtanium part!
There is another popular RUclips channel called Mr. Carlson's Lab. Paul is an electronics and radio enthusiast and one of his specialties is refurbishing old radios. He often mentions how difficult it is to refurbish the old glass dials. I think the two of you could do an interesting collaboration.
Oh, that is a very interesting idea. If anyone wants to put me in contact with him, feel free.
James, to all those; woulda, coulda, shouldas.....this project by far has to be the MOST informative, well executed and just plain GREAT you tube video of all time.....it shows innovative thinking, precise and technical execution all wrapped up in an understandable and enjoyble storyline. To do what you did with this is ABOVE and BEYOND......you raise the bar to the Nth degree.....Hats off to you on this one !!!!!! Keep em coming.......
WOW! Thank you for sharing your knowledge sir.
The way you know your way around Fusion is breathtaking!
You did a great job on this. Now we just need to have a DIY optical comparator design for the rest of us! Thanks for the great video.
Not a bad idea. I know someone who's been posting videos on Instagram of making lens mounts for one... Hmm..
Wow, I'd love to see that. Have been thinking about exploring the idea with some surplus optics I have, just don't know where to begin.
As always a great video. The biggest thing this does for me is giving me new ideas on ways to use my laser I hadn't thought of before. Glass is tough to work with. Thanks.
When you talked about etching glass, I at first thought about traditional etching - glad you found a modern technique, because HF definitely falls under "things I'm glad I don't work with."
And to think: they sell that stuff at Michaels craft and hobby 😬😬
Excellent. Cermark on Glass looks to be a real winner. Also appreciate you using Lightburn a bit more. Was good to see someone else "using it like I will"
Never heard about a comparator but after 33.40 watching one of the best videos ive seen on YT im fully aware and so inspired to learn fusion 360 and buy a laser and some more stuff...So educational, interesting & informative video. Huge thank yous from Sweden
Sandblasting the glass with fine grit works great for frosting glass and it is really durable. I am now going to pull the trigger on a XTool D1.
Thanks for the great video.
Hey James, great video! RE the circular pattern box being too small, I think its because its docked to your sketch palette, if you grab the top bar you can break it free then resize all you need.
Oh, thanks! That worked! I move back and forth between 1080p and 2160p displays, and things often get resized in weird ways unexpectedly.
p.s. I would have pinned your comment, but grendel1960a already got pinned for correctly pointing out an error I didn't notice. :(
Thank you, this has been bugging me as well!
@@Clough42 You can pin multiple comments can't you? Pretty sure I've seen videos with multiple comments pinned at the top (or maybe I'm just going insane)
@@gorak9000 maybe. :). If I pin another, it warns me that it will replace any existing pin.
Stunning results. I lost count on how many new things I learned in this episode 👍👍😎👍👍
Really enjoyed this and have never liked so many comments, some great ideas there. I have said it before but the way you explain Fusion360 is first class. A mini series on Fusion would I’m sure be well received.
Thanks for showing the whole process. It was helpful to me to see how you went from drawing it in fusion to taking it to light burn.
The window problem is everywhere in fusion, just grab the titlebar of the little window and undock it from the sketch panel thingie, then you can grab the lower corner of it and drag it to size =)
Very timely. I have a Nippon Kogaku (Nikon) 6 that came with plain glass and only cross hairs. I bought a mylar overlay of one pattern but want to make my own as well, specifically for checking threads (metric/UNC/UNF/BA etc). This same Fusion360 approach will work for printing on mylar or tracing paper. Thank you for the (as always) clear education. These are superbly useful tools, esp. when cutting 80-100 tpi threads, you can verify that your cutting tool is ground and set properly.
Love the collaboration. I would be interested in seeing your glass cutting saga as well as your technique for getting those clean holes.
What a win! Thanks for sharing.
I just simple love your videos, the quality of your projects is A++
Unobtailium... I love the terminology. It is always a joy to watch your video productions on a subject that I did not expect. Laser etching a glass screen for industrial use is great. That fact that you used some pretty available hardware to do it is even greater. Of course, your mastery of Fusion 360 is, as always, very instructive.
What a nice fusion360 lesson. Always good to see other minds & logics at work from start to finish.
Greetings from france from a fiber & co2 laser enthusiast :)
Another genuinely useful and innovative video. Thank you!
Fantastic video. Great project. I love what you got going on with your channel. Very inspiring.
Fantastic solution, very inspiring.
I can tell you the spray frosting holds up just fine. We didn’t like the “porthole” window in our side bathroom, so we replaced it with a different one that wasn’t frosted for privacy. We taped off the inside of the window frame after installation and sprayed that rattlecan frosting on the glass on the inside of the window. 15 years and it looks exactly the same.
Wow... cool!
You did a really nice job on that. I have frosted glass in the sand blasting cabinet. You might want to give that a try. Thanks for the great videos.
That method may well remove the laser etching, so I guess sand blasting for frosting would have to be done first before doing the laser work.
Great video, James - lots of angles (hah) packed in but still as nice as a fireside chat! Beautiful results, now all I need is the money and space for an optical comparator!
Loved this. It gives me so many ideas to use glass in projects.
Thanks, good stuff all the way through, especially the Fusion 360 techniques. Didn’t know the laser would work on glass.
Came out Amazing !!
What a Great job!!
Fantastic! I never thought it could be possible in a home workshop 👍
It's excusable not imagining a precision laser engraver in a workshop.
I just bought a MicroVu 400 optical comparator from eBay. My screen from what I can view on the pictures is fine. You did a great job showing us how to do this. I wish I could learn Fusion 360 but I don't seem to have a mind that understands the terminology. I'm 71 and struggle with all that you have to remember in order to draw what you want. Thanks
Excelent work! Really like result!
Great video and beautiful results!
Awesome video, Fusion lessons…tks, great build/discussion/demonstration….need to order 1 as I almost go blind/crazy with my current screen viewing in a dark room
Interesting process, Thanks for sharing James !
Cool. Yes please make a video on circular glass cutting. I like the way you walk us through the process. Thanks.
Thats an awesome optical comparator. MicroVu makes great vision system CMM's. Im always keeping an eye out for vintage metrology equipment. Great video btw.
Spectacular!
Great video and presentation of an application for the Laser. Alas, you have once again raised a wistful lament (and lust) for your well-equipped shop; however, on my list for the lottery winnings spending time with Giada & Stanley in Italy are still at the top.
Really outstanding work. I think one last pass with pre-frosted glass on the back, burned on the back, and it should be the ultimate combo.
Great work! Oh you are so going to get people asking you to make them one for their old comparator.
Another great video! I really enjoy the format with the Fusion360 demo. I guess I’m in the market for a laser engraver. 😉
Well I now know how to custom mark glass with a laser, and do a good job of it! Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the video. I believe Mr. Renzetti also did some work on a comparator glass. You guys are a great resource.
James, you can seal the frosting spray in with a clear coat finish if you're worried about it's durability. I've used both matte and gloss on top of the frosting spray with zero issues.
The glass looks amazing, thanks for the video!👍👍
Oh, cool. We (and many others) have speculated that it might work. It's good to hear from someone who has tried it.
Cutting glass: I had 10 circular porthole glasses to replace - different dimensions. CAD drawings and off to a waterjet cutter. They were perfect. You can always clean up the edges.
In the water cutter shop, their second machine was cutting a huge hinge out of a 10" block of steel!
A waterjet is an excellent tool for this application. If I had one....
@@Clough42 you don't have to own everything...
@@mahudson3547 really? That's news to me. :)
@@Clough42 have you seen Ben at Applied Science's budget water jet build video? pretty tempting...
It’s very rare I see things that I didn’t know existed but you got me.
We use transparent overlays at work. You print them out like we used to do in school back in the day and the comparators have spring fingers that hold them to blank glass. They're nice because you can CAD whatever feature with tolerance lines and such then just line it up real quick and have a look. You align the transparency with the motion of the axis by just including a couple reference marks in the print, then aligning them by sliding the vise or a part across while rotating the glass to straight. We also have some with the more general charts like on that glass.
Very nice results.
Optical comparaters are neat if you have a use. Thanks for the video, keep on keeping on.
That was very impressive. I think they used to be a photo process. We also had hand drawn overlays for specific items with the limits drawn on.
that is a piece of art right there, i think frosting this way is better as you have better visibility for the image of the object inspected underneath, more sharp, the original frosting makes the image blurry if i got that right unless it was out of focus in the original shot.
@Clough42 if you unsnap the modifier windows in fusion, it will allow you too resize it and will usually remember the change after you resnap it. Running fusion in windowed mode tends to squash the modifier windows i have found. Or if something happens while running that forces a resolution change.
That finish, I thought WOW :-)
that laser gantry rails solution in so elegant! dayum!!! some bent sheet metal riveted together and a steel rod... i freakin loooove smart cheap engineering :D
James, thank you for a great video. We are a producer of optical comparator glass screens and overlays. We are always on the hunt to find more contemporary methods for the process we use in our manufacturing. We will pursue some of the techniques you demonstrated to see how they work in our environment and if they meet our standards for precision and durability. Thanks again for your channel.
I'd be interested to hear how it works for you. I know of one other person who tried this process on the front side of frosted glass, and he got great results, too.
Yoink... this gets saved for later reference thanks for the lessons
I have done a number of art glass panels as part of a door or window for my clients. While I haven’t actually done the frosting of the glass, I have provided the artwork and watched a skilled glass etching artist go through their paces. Drawing on that experience, I would be very interested to see what the the laser marking results would look like if the glass panel had been sandblasted first - in this case with an ultra fine blast media. You might want to check locally to see if there is a glass artist with etching and sandblasting facilities. But this is a great video and once again you have proven your resourcefulness. As one of the Fusion 360 insider team members, I commend your CAD work - Move over LARS - James is about to displace you in the YT community. LOL. Thanks for this interesting video.
Great video,can always count on great content.
Man this is cool stuff.
Amazing project with great results! Would like to see how you cut a circle of glass.
Pretty darned neat James
The combination of CerMark and an inexpensive laser has gotten me thinking about all sorts of labeling ideas. It would be fun experimenting with multiple colors (one at a time), although registration may be tricky.
Gran trabajo!!!!
Dam, that was quick!
I really enjoyed this video. I've been wondering how I could mark up some frosted glass for a project of mine. Well done!
Very nice, we have a new laser etcher at work now and this gives me some dangerous ideas. By the way at 5:35 when you created a line, you can just hold CONTROL and it won't snap or constrain the line at all. Thanks for the video, I've learned a bit from this.
Oh, cool. Thanks for the tip!
The comparator we have at work came with scale glass rules so you can do point to point measurements of the part directly on the screen. It would be very easy to make one with the same technique. Another reason to have the front of the screen smooth is to be able to trace a profile onto paper and then take the measurements off that.
Very nice. We create overlays for our profiles (laminate flooring click profile) for our inspections. I imagine the same concept would be awesome for threads or weird geometry checks.
Drafting mylar has a frosted finish for the ink to stick (old fashion ink drawings). I sprayed the backside of my plain glass with a VERY light coat of 3M or some other contact spray. I can't remember if I sprayed the maylar also, then placed it on the glass and trimmed the edge with a razor blade. It is perfect for placing laser printed objects on clear laser film that can be placed on the optical comparator screen.
nice job
RE: bunch of arcs 12:00
Draw 1 arc, no pattern of points.
Select the arc, click Modify/Offset (Hotkey = O) type in the offset value you used in the original pattern, use a parameter (ArcOffset).
You can only offset the original. BUT! copy the text, ArcOffset*
Now that's in your clipboard, you can select original Arc press O on the keyboard CTRL V, and type in the next value, 2 then 3 then 4 then blah blah blah, you get the idea... Get into a little rhythm and this can go relatively quickly.
Alternative - get into API programming for Fusion and create this feature yourself. If I could come up with with a solid use for this type of feature I might consider doing it, but it's a bit of a bother for an edge case scenario like this.
Good suggestion.
The frosting reminds me of the cataract I had in my left eye.
When I was around 20 (now 74) I was a line inspector, I used one of these instrument to check diamond record player needles for the correct radii etc, three thou diameter for 78's if I remember correctly. I do remember the scale or profile line shape being on the back side for accuracy. Brought back memories, the only boy in a room full of girls on the line.
Glass and metal tech here, you could also try a frosted/obscure or transparent film. Some good 3m fils (and heaps of others) will give a more even and optically better viewport, also easy to replace/consistent and will protect the marks from oxidisation.
You can also acid etch the glass but this process leaves it extremely susceptible to oils as they are almost impossible to remove. We normally get our acid etched glass in already finish 3 or 6mm sheets and toughen or heat treat after cutting to alleviate the issue. Its diy if your have the time too if you can’t get it cut to size.
If you wanted to bring these to market my recommendation would be:
2 or 3mm Low Iron clear glass (no need for scientific grade), un-toughened/untreated (the film will add safety should it break) and then the best transparent film you can find.
Honestly, with all that said, I can’t believe it worked so well with the frost spray- a perfectly serviceable result for sure!! Great job!
I'm curious to know what you used to cut the glass and whether you did anything to the edge to make it safer to handle.
That is pretty damn amazing....
For the arcs you can use a function. Just like when picking your offset variables you can add an algorithm for how to generate your arcs.
Came out great! Finding all kinds of uses for the new laser and CerMark combo. lol.
I recently got setup for burning screens (with a home-made UV exposure+vac unit) and have various colors of Nazdar ADE epoxy-based ink that I'm hoping to use for screenprinting on metal panels and glass.
When you have a hammer, you start noticing nails everywhere.
I have used the same frosted paint on the interior of a lamp globe. The heat from the led bulb made the coating lift and peel off the glass.
Mario.
an acid etch is what you want. nasty stuff, usually about 75% as deadly as HF. opt instead for sandblasting.
Very nice James, thanks for sharing.
Have you experimented with using the laser to etch the glass?
Regards,
R
When I worked in a sign shop we sand blasted glass all the time, it's easy to control with practice.
Sandblaster...yet another tool I need. :)
James, I say! Rather nice work!
By the way, I've been under an impression that they use media blasting for getting frosted glass finish.
You could also try frosted vinyl. My dad owns a sign shop and uses frosted vinyl a lot on store fronts! We used some on our bathroom window and it looks great!
Someone else suggested this. Sounds like it's worth trying.
Artists' fixitive spray has a slight frosting effect and is pretty durable. Perhaps some combo of fixitive over frosting, or just fixitive entirely would be a more lasting solution. For a shorter term frosting solution, Swiss butter cream is a good way to go
Color me Awesomely Amazed. This video maybe one of your finest... Your attention to detail as always is top notch. Your presentation is as close to perfect as I have encountered. I love that you went to the trouble to product 3 different types of the same project. If I was 30 years younger I would be looking for some broken glass or faded glass comparators to buy and upgrade, but sadly my eyes are too old for tiny work ( Looks tiny to me ). Bless you for all the wonderful videos you share with us. Thank you again for another amazing project. As always your presentation is spot on and beautifully edited. Thanks for sharing .... Stay safe and well ...
Thanks! All the time is spent in the design, so trying different combinations is cheap.
Have you been tested for cataracts? I just got an new left lens and can see well again at 75.
@@carlhitchon1009 I had Cataract surgery in 2005. Shortly after I was injured in an accident and my right eye was severely injured. 5 surgeries later I have some vision ( truly blessed to not have lost the eye ) in my injured eye. My problem is I can't find any of the Gold in the Golden Years... Damn I have sure looked hard for that Gold ... Thanks for your comment.
@@jhawker2895 I'm sorry to hear that. There are other things. I like music.
There's no need to use diamond powder abrasive for frosting. Loose silicon carbide wet with water works well and is considerably cheaper. Your are just fine grinding the glass in the same way that is done when manually grinding lenses and mirrors. Either glass or ceramic tile tools work well.
For future projects where you want frosted glass, take a look into frosted glass vinyl film. Has an adhesive side that you apply directly to clean glass and gives a superbly regular frosted look and would probably be more durable than the paint.
Application of it can be finicky. Obviously very very clean glass and work space, I use very dilute soapy water and float the film on that them squeegee out the liquid. Best results after several days of drying out.
Please do more F360 videos your so good at explaining without making it boring
Regarding the silly small windows - I usually hit CTRL+ALT+R to reset the window positions to default which fixes it for a while till it breaks again...
Hi James, glad I found your channel. Although my projects are not nearly as detailed as yours, you have opened my eyes to possibilities as to what can be done. Have checked to see how resistant that bonding agent is to some of the more common glass etching agents? When I use a resist with etchants, it's temporary (like adhesive vinyl), but you want the resist to be permanent. Really interesting stuff. Just subscribed BTW. Thank you for your content.
good job
If it hasn't been said, when I di this kind of work I burn the cardboard circle out and remove it that was it sit exactly on center and prevents any movement as it is cradled in there. For small part I use flat balsa wood instead of card.
"I need you to make me one of theese"
Just one? Ok, I'll make 10 different ones and give you the best.
Having all the markings on the back seems to be best for both durability and readability. 👌
Very cool. I love the old school optical measuring equipment. You could also make it metric with this trick? Hmm- are there graduated markings on dials for the table?
Metric charts are one of the applications that Andre and I discussed. Would be pretty easy.
Awesome, I wonder how Mr. Pete’s optical comparator is and if it could use a new glass. I have an Ender 3 S1 Pro and apparently I can get a laser for it…no idea the quality or what it can accomplish, but fun to think about. Great video!
Great little project! Very enjoyable to watch your process. Are you planning on doing more videos with the benchtop cnc? Specifically very interested in getting it aligned and trammed well
Yeah. So am I. Lots of stuff to do.
@@Clough42 cool