STAR TRAILS will change your night photography
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Our video books: northrup.photo
Get Lightroom & Photoshop: sdp.io/adobedeal
Star trails turn stars into long lines or circles. You can make star trails by taking a really long exposure, but if you do that, you'll be multiplying the light pollution. There's a better way: stack pictures a series of pictures to make amazing star trails. You can do it using entirely free software - specifically, StarStax (sdp.io/starstax).
Our video books: northrup.photo
Get Lightroom & Photoshop: sdp.io/adobedeal
Great and fabulous video thanks 😍
I've just been leaving my shutter open for over an hour to get star trails, can't wait to apply this software to some photo collections I used for time lapses. Thanks Tony!
Great video as always. Thanks for posting it. I'll add that if you truly want to get focus perfect on the stars, I'd recommend a Bahtinov Mask. It causes a defraction pattern on a bright star and allows you to get focus just right. They do make these for camera lenses.
waht is ur camera?
I owe this channel so much. Thanks Tony. I highly recommend the stunning digital photography book.
Did someone say night photography?
go back to the north from whence you came!
but seriously, your northern lights photos were _amazing_ dude!
how small the world is... love your videos
You’re a world class instructor, Tony. Love the way you break things down!
One and the only reason I still use Olympus cameras is the live composite and live time which let me do this in camera and also continuously monitor if it is working. I wish other camera brands would do the same. I have done really fun shoots with live composites. Especially in the cities at nights.
M. Rez. Amazing underrated feature won’t even get a mention here where the Olympus format was pronounced dead on this channel a few months back. Wait until Canon or Nikon put it on their cameras it will be the next best thing that everyone should have like mirrorless is today!
I do wish Canon, Nikon and Sony would put that in their cameras. Alternatively, give me a full frame Olympus. I don't think any amount of features is worth losing 3/4 of my sensor area compared to full frame. :/
@@Greggie_D you're definitely right. Until the reviewers like a system they don't talk about the neat features. I had said the same about Sony eyeAF. Everybody find it fantastic but it wasn't even talked about in the reviews when it first appeared in 2014 on Sony A-mount system A77m2.
ActionPhotoPassion yes 4 years ago lumix G7 had terrific eye detect and rather accurately picked the closest eye to the camera. My wife being a teacher used it to great effect on her students with out missing focus in the 2 years she has used it. She knows nothing about cameras but is very pleased with the results. All the rant is about Fuji and Sony eye detect like it’s new and they invented it.
@@Greggie_D Well, my G9 didnt't detect any eyes unless subject was closer than 2 m. This is one of the reasons I returned it, useless "feature".
Thank you. Just picking up photography again after a 40 year break. Boy has it changed. I love the moon and star shots. I will try this this weekend. Maybe, its cold here in Montana.
Your original star trails video tutorial was the first video of your channel I remember seeing. Glad you're updating.
Just got home from trying a star trail in London's Bushy Park, and this is the first video I see! Unfortunately, barely 5 minutes into my timelapse I was joined by about 40 inquisitive fallow deer. Lesson being: make sure you set up somewhere safe, not somewhere that you'll have to move/run away from! 😀
More of instructional videos, please. I can only take so much of equipments reviews.
"The stars are moving fast" Tony is a flat Earther 😂
I know you're joking, but you have the top comment and a bunch of people are saying the same thing. 1) I'm def not a flat earther. 2) I feel like it's totally accurate to say the stars are moving through the sky; scientifically, movement is always relative to the observer and all potential observers are on the Earth. I didn't say, "The stars revolve around the Earth."
@@TonyAndChelsea thank you for another great video tony!
Tony & Chelsea Northrup It‘s not reeeally always relative to the observer as there is also the absolute velocity of a moving object that is by definition not relative. But you‘re right that in the case of this tutorial it absoletely makes no sense to say other than „the stars are moving“.
@@TonyAndChelsea CIA seems to have gotten tony northup now after joe rogan lol
@@iSee91 But absolute velocity is always measured relative to a fixed frame of reference.
Thanks Tony. This is a great video about star trails. You clearly explained what they are and how to photograph them. You answered every question I had about them. You make me want to try this out.
Hey Tony I just bought your book Stunning Digital Photgraphy amd I love it. I am new to video and photography I just decided to start a RUclips channel one day and now I am falling in love with shooting video and taking photos. I love your channel and you teach me so much. Thanks for everything you and Chelsea do I really appreciate it. Oh and I most definitely plan on purchasing all of your books.
Regarding camera settings, I've taken a few star trail photos in my hometown (so with plenty of light pollution), and my go-to settings for star trails were 30sec, f/4, ISO 400 and I've gotten great results with that (I say "were" because I recently got a 10mm f/2.8 lens to use for this kind of stuff instead of my 16-35mm). Good info though on the continuous shooting mode, for some reason I spent loads of time setting up my 80D's intervalometer and didn't think to just do it in continuous mode! Another tip though with foregrounds - I personally like to take a specific foreground shot, so focused on the building or whatever, and exposing for it properly, then I'll just add that into the post-processing mix. For post-processing I use Photoshop blending modes for the star trails, then I'll mask in the foreground frame. Also don't forget to shoot a couple of dark frames to get a noise profile and subtract them from the star frames for better noise reduction. Using a dedicated stacking software is probably the easier way of doing it, as Photoshop runs so slow when I open up like 60 raw files as layers, but I end up with a TIFF back in Lightroom at the end of it for any final tweaking, so I kinda prefer it.
If you're shooting with a camera without a swing out LCD screen then look into buying a right angle finder attachment. When your camera is pointed upwards for sky photos it really helps.
Brilliant tutorial. One of the best for star trails and live composite
6:15
That light painting, is that (and therefore this picture series) from several years ago? I recognise the scene.
Yeah it's old! It just seemed like the best example for the post-processing.
@@TonyAndChelsea
Completely unacceptable. Unsubscribed; reported your channel as a hate crime.
@@smaakjeks lmaoo
@@smaakjeks I legit Lol'd
@@smaakjeks Got to admit I laughed at that too. Tony thank for the great tutorial!!
Oh boy, a night photography vid, my speciality : ) well these days I do more streets at night but nice to see you guys get out of your studio from time to time =p
Tony, pro tip for your Sony A7 series camera: There's a setting on your camera to not display the unnecessary animation on the side when you change exposure settings. The upside is the histogram doesn't disappear when changing exposure settings - so I highly recommend it. I think the setting is called "exposure set guide" or something similar.
I like your short videos on quick ‘How to do this….'
Chelsea looks beautiful on that Lightroom Book cover. Great photo as always.
With a high performing low light camera like a Nikon D850, and a f/1.4 lens, anything higher than ISO 400 will give you a bright, almost daylight like sky.
Don't forget to turn off long exposure noise reduction! If not there will be gaps in your trails!
Short, sweet, simple, and awesome!
We still need you and Chelsea to come to Alaska and shoot northern lights with us! We're expecting a coronal hole to become geoeffective early tomorrow morning. Weather is clear with virtually no moon so we should get some good shots the next couple of nights. Late Feb/early March is the best part of our season! Come on up guys!!
Love the short format informative videos! Keep it up!
I just use olympus, it does have live composite and does all that in the camera while you can see the progress on the screen.
Tempted to ask if Tony has a tutorial on how to find the North star... Kidding of course. 😂
perfect episode
Geeeez this was so easy! Thanks for this! I'm going to try it next time I have a night off! I'll be sure to post to the facebook group!
you could also throw them into photoshop layers, select all of them, and change the blend mode to lighten.
Yeah but good luck working with 300 layers
Thanks for the tutorials, these are great. I just recently purchased a DSLR and have purchased your book and I'm working through it ... I can't wait to try this for shooting stars. Would you mind sharing what gear you used for this shoot?
My go to film camera is the x-700 dew to the fact i have ben shooting with it since the 80s. 🤣
F2.8 28mm iso 100 set open on bulb for 2hr 45 min.
And dam those jets!
Really nice tutorial, thanks Tony. If you really want to nail focus for astrophotography, look into something called a Bahtinov focus mask. They are mainly used with telescopes, but you can buy them small enough to fit camera lenses. You can even make one out of cardboard if you're good at crafts :)
I also recommend turning off your camera's noise processing. When I used to shoot astro on my D3200, the camera took so long to do noise reduction there were gaps in the star trails. Turning it off saved a lot of headache.
Great summary for making a star trail photography...
I'm an obsessive astrophotography wanna-be so I instantly clicked when the notification popped up... and then the very first 3 seconds made me cringe. Please, Tony - the Earth moves pretty fast :P You can make a *bahtinov mask* to very quickly nail focus on stars (and you can buy one for ~$20 almost anywhere - missed opportunity for an Amazon affiliate link there ;) ) Last tip is to make sure your camera's Long Exposure Noise Reduction is *ON* since you're shooting so many long exposure shots your sensor is going to get very hot over the course of the night - and that's going to pump your noise levels WAY high. You can correct this yourself by creating dark frames but it's easier to just let the camera do it - as they all do a fairly good job of it.
Tinfoilnation NO never turn your In camera noise reduction ON! Useless and waste of time. 30s exposure with NR in camera is 60s. Better just use the one in Lightroom or PS.
I'm aware it's the earth's rotation that causes star trails. Scientifically, movement is always discussed relative to a fixed point of reference, and in this case, that's the observer. So yeah, the stars definitely do move.
@@TonyAndChelsea We're teasing you Tony - relax :p
@@jackchow4316 Wow. No. Either turn on noise reduction in camera and eat the additional time it takes, or spend that time yourself creating dark frames -- either way you cut it you must create the dark frames at the same time you're exposing your photos (or as close to it as possible). You try and do this in post and you are going to fail. Just... don't. No. A thousand times *No* .
Edit: To follow up - this is an excellent example of why you don't want to attempt this kind of noise reduction with a slider in Lightroom: ruclips.net/video/jKAegKqGmSQ/видео.html
There's so much more than just "noise" being pumped into long exposure shots. Either have the patience to deal with that issue at the time of shooting (LENR: *ON* or manually created Dark Frames) or have fun spending a very long time with the sliders in LR or PS correcting the slop it puts in your images -- that you could have gotten rid of automatically or with two clicks in PS if you'd just done it right to begin with.
Great video guys! Thanks!!
Great video! Thank you!
60fps looking sharp guys. Keep up the great work!
Awesome tutorial Tony! You always explain everything really well.
Thank you very much
Nice photo! I need to check out starstacks, Ive been layering in PS and this way looks much easier than importing 10gb worth of photos into 1 PS file...
Awesome! I definitely need to try this. Love new photo applications to try out.
Very nicely presented! Thanks Tony! 👍
Tip, reduce ISO to get the colours in stars since 3200 will overexpose it for sure.
Cool description, as always.
The 14/1.8 is a real badass lens, I envy you for that piece.:)
Amazing...had no clue about this! Thanks so much Tony!!!!✨✨✨
This is so beautiful. 😍
Thank you! This is great information, easy to follow, painless to actually execute.
Thanks for your video! 👍
Very cool. Thank you
Pro tip: if you get airplane trails through your images you can open those individual subframes in MS Paint and just draw a black line over the trails. Then when you run it through StarStax the software won't "add" the black line to the image. Viola, planes gone! Also don't shoot in raw, that is total overkill and not usable in the software anyway :)
Thanks Tony!
Great video, just gotta wait for a clear night. Thanks!
Nice Video & Tips Tony
For this to work, will I have to turn off noise reduction? Otherwise each 30s exposure will result in a 30s break when noise reduction is doing its thing 🤔
Yes, turn it off
For any astrophotography it is best to turn off all Boise reduction both high ISO and long exposure noise reduction. It's better to treat it in post
Okay you got me! Clicked because of the Fuji 😂
Wow! Is it just me, or has it been ages since you've done a tutorial? Personally I tend just to use time mode, but it's nice to have alternatives.
Nice Video & Tips Tony ~~~~~~~ Thumbs Up!
This looks epic 👌 Very nicely done. Great tips.
Thanks for an excellent video!
I will try that. Awesome
easy to understand.
good
very cool thank you
Thanks for your guide! Very helpfull
Thanks for the tips! What if I can see the stars in live view but I cannot recognize if they are sharp and focused? Happens all the time to me...
Do they have to have a special form when they are properly focus or, for example, they have to be of the smallest size?
Yes, they are in focus when they are the smallest in size on your monitor
@@martorth Thanks a lot!!! Gonna try it next time.
@@MochitoMaker I do lots of milky way photography and it's still a challenge to get the stars in focus. I usually take a few shots checking each one before starting to trust that I've got it. A couple things: remember to turn off manual focus, and pick a star close to the center of the frame, the ones on the sides tend to be somewhat distorted.
I don't have remote yet but when I take 30 second exposures with continuous shooting after a photo it takes like another 30+ seconds to process even if I'm pressing the shutter. I think it might just be how outdated my camera is
Nikon d3100
Thanks for this... love u guys
Wow,nice
I would love to get all your books, if your videos are this good I can't imagine how good your books are, but I live in Mexico, is there a way I can get them over here?
COOL!!!
Hi Tony, please help me choose between Canon 77D and 80D. In India the prices are:
Canon EOS 77D DSLR Camera with 18-135mm Lens: INR 66,279
Canon EOS 80D Digital SLR Camera with EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM Lens: INR 76,991
I'm planning to get one next month and I'm a bit confused between these two. I'm not going to Nikon since I just love Canon's dual pixle AF system and multi-angle rotating touchscreen.
Please help me choose between these two. Thanks.
Once in a while it's nice to see a video about something I've been already doing for a couple years :)
Thank you, great video & teaching, just ordered a D3500 w/lots of lenses today, Subscribed w/ Belle.
Fabulous,,,,
Would love to try this. In fact I just bought the Shutter Boss. But I’m terrified my camera will get rained on or stolen. Can’t afford to replace it.
Thank you, Tony for taking "one for the team"! Definitely looked cold. At my latitude we can see the southern lights "aurora australis", to capture the aurora, do we use the same settings for a star-trail? Again, many thanks!!
Holy shit my family owns a summer house like 3 minutes away from that abandoned hospital (seaside) we go a few times per year.
Awesome tricks and really vry helpful video,,thnk u so much ♥️♥️♥️
Tony? Does StarStax reduce the visible noise by averaging the non-star-party of the image?
Because in that case, could i do a really high ISO shoot with this method? like ISO 52 with a lower aperture? Or would the noise in the sky become weird objects?
Still rocking 60p almost 2 years now. I bet the 24p fan boys don't even notice. ;)
If my camera has a built in intervalometer why is an external one better? I thought you said to use external instead and wasn't sure if I missed something?
Thanks Tony great job greetings from UAE by the waw how to locate the north star? that is important for great Star Trails
I think Astro photography is more about editing hacks rather than photography.
Sweet
Thank you for your tips. I would like to know whether should I turn on GPS and Asterotracer options for star trails?
Hi Tony. Thank you for the advises and the teaching you have given. Please let me know what is the S/W you are using to edit the exposure. Once again Thank you for all the tips and teachings.
Or you can have a Pentax and use "Bright" compositing mode, and it will stack your photos for you. Easy peasy
or purchase Star Trail app of Sony but the thing is he is showing how to do in every camera brand.
How many photos did you end up taking? And each photo was a 30sec exposure?
Do you use image stabilization for this? Great videos! Thank you!
Can you guys please do a video about the "Afghan Girl" Please!
Instead of stacking multiple photos, this would work with bulb mode and an nd filter too, right? Just curious if there's any difference
in digital cameras, extended shutter times add more noise. great for film, though.
You'd get far more light pollution, so much that you might barely be able to see the stars.
When where your books last updated, Tony?
Nice and simple tutorial. If you live in the suburbs and only a few stars are visible, will this type of photography work? Also, will this method work with m43 cameras? Cheers!
Yeah these photos were all taken in the burbs
Can the Star stack program also export the final product as a video also? Because it looked cool as it was generating the image
Haven't I seen a video like this one long time ago?
so easy when you do it wow
Hi Tony!, I loved the star trail explanation, thanks!, but as I want to do this, I wonder if you know a remote for the Nikon D3500 that can lock the shutter open? Thanks in advance for any help!
That is very cool. which lens are you using? I am kinda struggle between the Rokinon 14mm 2.8 manual vs AF same brand. which one would you recommend? Thanks
I can remember the original video with those shots.
BUT I want to add, Star Trails alone won't make a great image. You still need an interesting foreground not a random field/trees/buildings. Composition and interesting subjects, that's key.