Africa Twin - Are Valve Clearance Checks Necessary?
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- Опубликовано: 31 дек 2023
- My bike has done 43,000km with NO valve clearance check.
What will I find when I dive into its insides?
Good how-to vid
• Honda Africa Twin Valv... 
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Nice video. Very well done. In my experience of owning 9 modern japanese bikes and having put hundreds of thousands of kms on them, the Valve clearances have never once needed doing. That's modern japanese engineering for you!. Having said that, I think everybody should try checking them at least once in their lifetime, just for the experience. Nice job Sir 👍
Ha! “Just for the experience” is something I could do without. But some things just have to be done.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Yeah I know I exactly what you mean. Bikes and bike ownership is sort of a "love/hate" relationship. Swearing and frustration is all part of the "charm" 😅
Tru working on an Aprilia or an older Ducati. It's enough to put somebody on suicide watch!
I've had an FJR1300 since 2006 and had the valve clearance checked three times and no adjustment was needed each time.
My Z750 needed a few shims to get to 94k.
My FJR1300 has 106k miles and not out of spec. Last checked at 80k
Great work... I've never gone along with the valve check rip off.... modern engineering and metals have moved on and engine wear is a lot less ..keep the oil and filter changed regularly and everything will look after it's self.
Done many 2 and 4 valve adjustments… mainly Kawasakis. I think the Honda Unicam engine design is very good with the easy adjustment on the exhaust side where they are more likely to go out of spec.
In my experience dealers don’t do this job, but they tell you they have, because they know nobody will ever check. I did however….Before going in for a main service I measured the clearances on a mates bike (shim sizes were all known) despite the dealer claiming two exhaust shims had been changed.. nothing had been touched, clearances and shims identical to pre service condition.
So draw your own conclusions from that…. And do your own maintenance.
Agree. It’s a challenge to find a dealer/mechanic that can be trusted - sadly.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Agree, it is like a dentist or butcher, thankfully I work with in the industry (metal worker) and my mechanic is also a friend of a friend I have used for years and is literally around the corner from where I work (I also some times do jobs for them, etc. weld a exhaust or gastank and exchange favors)
Many moons ago, I had a brand new LeMans 1000. I ran it for 44000 miles and, before I sold it, I decided to check the valves for the first time. They were all well within spec! It was the same story with my 1100 Katana as well.
I used to be paranoid about stuff like that until I lived in The Philippines where you will see literally hundreds of millions of bikes that have almost ZERO services and running in the WORST conditions on this Earth, and 90% of them came from the 60s and 70s............and ............................ NO PROBLEMS....still running! We westerners very often OVERTHINK everything. My advice is to ride the bloody thing and enjoy it......its NOT there to play with.
Sure but they didn't pay 15k for a bike either
Those things are low power that are never really pushed like on a western motorway
@@GlockPointer Ive purchased 4 bikes that were over $15k in the Philippines.
@@fs5866 "never really pushed" ....have you ever been there? these things carry up to 14 people and a super heavy sidecar or massive pigs for butchery up mountains in 40 degree celsius temps through dust and mud like you would not believe.And they do this all day every day with almost zero maintenance most dont even bother with air filters!
Time well spent, good peace of mind. I checked the valve clearances on my 1995 Daytona 1200 even though it had supposedly had a valve check a couple of thousand miles before at a main dealer. Several were out of range and one was way tight. There is no way they did a valve service, just charged for it. Luckily shim over bucket so I could change the shims with a tool leaving the camshafts in place. I'm not too sure how many dealers have competent mechanics these days to be able to do them even if you are willing to pay? My CB1100EX also has a reputation for staying well in spec with very high mileages.
Yes. It’s pretty sad you can’t trust anyone to do a proper job these days.
Did my Tiger 800 myself at 19,000 mi. and all were within spec. , glad too because they are shim under bucket so pull the cams if adj. is needed. Have read on the Tiger forums the many have found the same thing.
I agree with you: these things must be checked, but as others have said, the valve clearances seldom need adjustment. My first big Japanese bike was a brand new 1979 Suzuki GS850G. At the first service, I had about five new shims installed and the other three at the second service - and none after that. The dealer told me to just leave them alone unless it started making a funny noise. I sold that bike (dumb move) at about 100,000 km and it was still running like new. Much later I had a 2007 Honda ST1300 (aka Pan European) and it was the same - checked it, but no adjustments were needed.
I’m sure quality of this stuff is improving each year. My bikes back in the 70’s and 80’s definitely needed adjusting once they “bedded in” but were fine after that.
and lucky the ST did not need adj. That is quite a job ....hours and hours. I took care of 3 of them while working at a Honda dealership. I always prayed they did NOT need adj when doing the ck ST is a great bike....very hot in the summer though. Biggest reason I never bought one.
A beautiful and wonderful video, as usual. There is a video on RUclips of a German person who has a Honda Africa Twin. He has a total mileage of 400,000 kilometers, and he has never done a valve clearance check.
Good to know. Thanks.
Can you share the link? Thanks!
I admire anyone doing valve clearance checks these days.. I keep promising to do mine, but chicken out 😏. v4 1200.
"There is always the worry that you may break something".....
I absolutely know that I will definitely break something !
I am also very capable of losing something, sometimes deep withing the guts of the bike.
When I eventually sell my NC it will go with an "extra" bolt that is lost somewhere deep in its guts.
I did the same half a lifetime ago with a Fiat 126. It was complete just with some bits sitting in the ashtray rather than inside the carb where they were supposed to be.
Ha! Nice to hear I’m not alone.
Recently checked my valves on my RD07 after 10 years, as suspected when i got the tank off they were still there, job done
Thank you! I've been waiting for this video since you bought the Africa Twin. Excellent work.
Happy new year! Be well and ride safely!
I own an Africa Twin and a VFR. The VFR cost me the price of a good used bike to check the valves - they were all in spec. Last season, I took my Africa Twin in to “do the valves” at 24 000 kilometers and my very experienced Honda certified mechanic said he wouldn’t do it unless I pushed him to do it; he said come back in another 20 000 kilometers and we’d talk about it. I also have two other high mileage bikes that have been serviced according the schedule. My conclusion? Over the years I’ve paid thousands for factual data and peace of mind but, virtually no adjustments were absolutely necessary.
Great feedback. Thanks
Yup same with my FJR1300. 106k and going strong
Well done mate, I admire your commitment
Great video. My NC had her checks due 2023 but I visited a garage in Lincoln and paid someone considerably more mechanically minded than me 🥴. £528 later with a service, MOT and new chain and sprockets but everything back where it should have been 😊
Hi, if that's Lincoln UK, I could have helped! Did mine last year.
I checked mine at 20000 mile and everything was in spec. It is the hardest motorcycle I've ever had to work on just checking or changing air filters is pain. I have the DCT model truly amazing.
Have just watched your NC750 valve clearance video and see how amazing that bike is for maintenance. I chickened out of doing my 1290 valves because of the access issue and the AT looks similar. Thanks for the videos.
Decades ago, due to money being tight, I did a long daily commute on a Honda CD200 . I never once checked the valves in 63000 miles. The bike ran sweet as a nut, l had to scrap it due to extensive rust. Not long ago, I had a Yamaha TT600RE and did a valve check at 30000 miles all in spec. I haven't checked valves since and never will. Malcolm.
Great vid, thank you.
I’ve got a CRF1100 AS with 9k miles on it & I’ve been dreading the valve clearance service due to the ridiculous cost. The bike is so loaded with tech & complicated to work on I haven’t even removed a side panel in 2 years of ownership. I’ve just bought an XRV650 which I’m stripping down to bare chassis for powder coating… the bike is a joy to work on & I’m more familiar with it after 3 weeks than I am with the CRF after 2 years. 🤷♂️
To be fair, the AT wasn’t technically complicated to get at the valve clearances. But it was very fiddly. Fortunately not a job that’s done often.
I was surprised how easy it was to get at the air filters after so many people complained about it.
truth is most dealers don't check them and many others make you pay without even removing the valve cover...honestly, even my 300cc scooter with 80000km only changed one shim on the exhaust because it was on the tight side but could probably be that way till the end of engine life expectancy. Most modern bikes are a lot of work to check them and a nightmare to adjust so that is the reason why almost nobody check them
Well done that Man, and A Happy New Year to you Both! In my jaded view, the single advantage flat twin engines will have over 'normal' bikes! Mind you, I have a flat twin to do in a car of ours but only 4 bolts to remove per wing allowing unimpeded access!
Yep. I agree. My 1150GS took minutes to do the valves with its easy access and screw and lock nut adjustment.
Thank you for the detailed video.
Nice video, thanks. I'll be tackling my Suzuki vstrom valve clearances during this winter. Getting at the valve covers doesn't look too bad but I'd also like to check the throttle balance and getting at the vacuum ports and removing the throttle bodies looks to be a job for someone with very small hands. Happy new year to you and wendy.
Thanks mate. Wish you success with your maintenance.
Main reason I bought an NC750x rather than the CB500x was the ease of maintenance especially valve clearances. Like you, I'm a tight bugger
Yes. I miss the ease of maintenance of the NC.
Good video and good point, I plan to check mine at 50km
I did mine at 17,600 miles/28,300 KM the inlets where 0.16 0.18 0.16 and 0.16 exhausts where 0.24 0.22 0.23 and 0.23 so all in spec and left until I check the next time. The only difficulty was connecting the short S shaped valve cover ventilation hose to the airbox when putting everything back together. I ended up attaching it to the airbox and lubing the inside of it with ACF 50. I put the sprung wire retainer over the valve cover connecting stub, pressed the airbox down into position and manovered the hose over the valve cover connecting stub (coil tray is sort of in the way) with long nosed pliers. Then used said pliers to compress the sprung wire retainer and lift it up over the hose then push the hose down over the stub to the top of the valve cover. About a 45min delay working that one out. It took me about 5 and a half hours to do, fully assembled bike to fully assembled bike,(I disconnected the throttle bodies completely) without adjusting the valves. Checking took about 10-15 mins. Adjusting the exhaust valves would take about 10mins (screw and Locknut) the inlets maybe another hour-hour and a half if you had the correct shim sizes.
Fun fact.... the screw and locknut valve adjuster for the exhaust valves is the same tool as my old Honda lawnmower PN 07708-003-0400 :)
If i was to do the job again I think I would be able to get to the valves in about an hour and a half with similar time to put it all back together again.
As a comparison I have a 22 year old R1150GS I can check and adjust the valves and endfloat, change the engine oil and filter, Air filter, gearbox oil and bevel drive oil, refresh the brake and clutch fluid and balance the throttle bodies in 2.5-3 hrs....I've had it for 20years though!
Agree. I also owned an 1150 for 13 years. Simple to maintain …. Until I had to replace the clutch - that was a nightmare.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff 80,000 miles in I haven't had to do that...........yet!
Thanks for the vid. Did my AT valve clearance check myself. You are way better than me. I found it a very difficult and trying experience and took close to 8hrs. All were within spec. I will not bother again, as its unlikely they will move or change now if they didn't in the first 30,000ks.
Thanks. Yep I agree.
I shall stick with my NC, and hopefully add a Royal Enfield 350 classic to join it. Well done sorting the Africa twin out
Great video, as always. I used to do the clearances on my CB1100F, but that was when I was in my twenties. It was a hell of a job.
I'm 68 now and have a 2022 AT1100 Adventure sports with 8.5k on the clock. I will do minor servicing but
I don't have either your patience or mech ability, so for me it's off to the dealer.
Hey Adrian - that's quite a job and so tight getting all that stuff out of there. But, in spec so nice. My experience with clearances on my CB1100 4 is this. I have them checked every major service - about 12,000km intervals (minor services every 6,000kms). Never once have they needed adjusting. I'm now up to just over 41,000kms on the bike. I'll continue to have them checked at these intervals but don't expect any issues with my beautiful big inline 4 🙂
Good the hear from you. And thanks for your input.
After 50 years of riding I have employed one system throughout. If the fuel consumption remains constant (after all, if the valves move this will be reflected by less efficient engine and drop in consumption) and the other being noise! I ran a Honda C90 for 45,000 miles on engine oil changes and they have to be the hardest run engines that Honda have!
Hi just done check on 21 Goldwing bagger 16000 miles
same type of set up ,all in speck.
The valve clearance,s have to be done with timing chain relaxed .
I have a VFR800 V-TEC 120000 miles + and the valves have never been adjusted. The engine runs perfect.
Good to hear
I picked up a 2019 AT Adventure Sport last spring with very low mileage. Haven't broke 10K yet but close. For what I ride (plus multiple bikes) it'll be a few seasons till I have to get serious about a valve check. I will do the air filters before spring just to get familiar with disassembling her. I did a KLR650 years ago and even though it doesn't quite compare to whats at hand with this it still was a chore get valve cover off because of frame clearance. Just like your AT they were in spec! My Guzzi on the other hand always need a little tweaking when I get in those. Great Vid!
Fortunately the Guzzie is easy to work on.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff very easy!
The one thing I don't understand about Japanese bikes considering their expertise in engineering is why on earth don't they use hydraulic valve lifters that never need inspection or adjustment as they are self adjusting. Hydraulic valve lifters have been around for many decades and are standard in most car engines and even on American motorcycles so why not in Japanese bike engines? Luckily my 2022 NC750xdct has simple access to the valves with locknut/screw adjustment. Nevertheless, having to do the inspection every 16,000 miles is still a chore I'd rather not undertake at my 68 years of age. All that bending down etc🤥.
Ha! I find it’s not the bending down that’s the problem. It’s the getting back up again.
I agree about Hydraulic valve lifters.
As for the NC I found that after the initial small adjustment, they didn’t need adjusting again as it had done 108,000km when I sold it.
Honda did have a hydraulic lifter bike, The VT1100 ....but they seem to have a clutch issue ...I forget exzactly what ...like an oil ck valve use to stick ...and no clutch ..no forward motion
Dealers can burn in hell
900$ for a “check!”
I’m on motorcycle number 11, I have never, and Will never get valves checked. Scheduled maintenance is a scam to get you back into the dealer and an excuse to drop your warranty if something actually goes wrong.
Have an electrical problem? Well, you didn’t get your valves checked so Warranty won’t cover it……
Good video on this topic !
It also makes me glad that I chose for a Moto Guzzi V85TT... Easy-Peasy, as it comes to DIY maintenance...
Yes I’m envious. I was very tempted to but a TT.
My Guzzi V7 maintenance schedule calls for valve clearance check every 10,000 km. My local dealer charges total labour 1.5 hours for the full service, so I assume half that is for the valve job. Seems reasonable.
@captratty2167 - nice to have a bike where the cam covers are easy to reach.
Good video mate
I checked my 2018 Africa Twin standard yesterday with 26,000 Ks on the motor
My Inlet valves were all in spec
Three of my Exhaust valves were a tad big @ 0.25 mm OEM setting 0.23 +/- 0.02 I adjusted them back to 0.23 mm
Yeah its a big job I personally found it easier to drain the coolant and get the radiators out of the way
Yes. Quite a bit of swearing would be avoided by removing the RHS radiator.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff
Hahahahahahaha Correct Sir !
Remove the R/h side and tie the L/H side back
What about those electrical connectors gissmo's ?? arn't they lovely ?
I checked the clearances on my CBR600R a 2002 model with 31K miles on the clock, all were within tolerance but it was a bugger of a job to do.
Happy new year mate.
I'll do my NC valves for fun but doing the maths I can't help thinking that by the time my super Tenere reaches valve check time the garage cost will be a significant ‰ of the bike value. Many reporting no adjustment needed after a b*ch of a job.
I can't help recalling what my late father in law said to me once. "What's life without a little risk ?"😂
Doing the NC is a relaxing hour. Doing the AT was scary the whole time.
2012 650 vstrom 118,000 klms 6 in spec 2 front exhaust on limit so changed and now in mid range,
this weekend is my Enfield 650 10,000 k service and the adjusters are lock nuts so an easy job.
Most bucket shims rarley if ever need adjustments, but good to check, if sports filters are fitted, or dirt suckers as they are called will sometimes cause need for valve adjustments.
great vid bud , i am in the market for a AT and this helps. lol
Checked my CRF250L at 25K. All were on the lower edge of spec. Changed shims to make them all top end of spec and the bike is so much better, Low end torque is up. Maybe this difference might not be as noticeable on larger capacity machines. It is worth the trouble just for peace of mind.
I see people here saying that dealers would probably not do this job, that is the conclusion I came to as well. A lot of work for something that no one would bother checking.
Good feedback. Thanks
Keep spoiling us,
A symptom of valves that are closing up is difficulty in starting. Once they lose all clearance they start to leak. If this should happen to someone who hasn't checked the valves in ages, it might be good to start there instead of troubleshooting the spark and fuel systems.
Hello mate from England. CRF1100, 25,000 miles. Valves have never been checked, it's about £700 for the dealer to do it. He told me (and he's one of the more trustworthy I've met over the years) that if it runs well and starts easily when hot it's probably fine. To me it seems bizarre that Honda thinks this is acceptable routine maintenance, but they're likely erring very much on the cautious side. Most important things are oil changes of course, and don't forget the drain tubes! Safe riding.
Thanks mate. Yep. Always good to have your tubes drained 🤣
🤣@@AfricaTwin-Stuff
Happy to say no adjustments needed on my 2018 triumph tiger 800 at the 12000 mile interval.
Why are motorcycle engines so far behind? I cant remember when I last bought a car that needed valve checks or adjustments. On the other hand I will stick with the manufacturer’s recommendations, if Honda say that the valves should be checked at 40,000km I will get them checked as in my experience the do seem to know what they’re doing.
Had to adjust 3 on my NC750X after 24000km… but on a NC it’s relatively easy, just need to move the radiator that’s it.
I've got an XJR1300 2015 with 77,000 miles on it and thought I would check the valves . Happy to say no ajustment needed and runs as sweet as 😃 cant wait to put another 77,000 on and without a care 👍will take my chances and a bit tight 😂🇬🇧
Should be no need to check again. The XJR1300 is a “real” motorcycle. Love the look, as soooo much grunt too.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Thanks and love every mile on it 👍 got an Yamaha XT1200Z also and now on 26,000 and runs like a swiss watch 🤣 oil, filters plugs and ride as much as possible 🤞 safe riding 🏍⛽🇬🇧
Did a check it on a BMW 1200 boxer engine. It was relatively easy.
When I buy a new bike I get the first valve check done, then don't worry about it. Adjustment is rarely needed or is minor. Talking to other riders over the years, some never check and their bikes run fine. I have a theory that if you ride a bike "normally" and don't thrash it up near the Redline all the time, the engine will be ok. The key is regular fluid changes, especially engine oil.
Agree. I think this is the consensus based on the feedback. Thanks.
It seems more complicated than in the NC. By the way, do you keep the NC?
Best regards and happy new year.
Yes. Waaaay more complicated than the NC. But you can’t compare the two bikes in terms of functionality.
My NC went to a good mate for “mates rates” so I’ll still be seeing it.
Did you change the plugs while it was apart? I know it’s a little early but it’s an easy job at this point. I’ve checked valves on a few AT’s , both in spec. Thanks for the video!
No - didn’t change plugs. They are good for at least 100,000km. And they aren’t cheap to buy.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Yeah, seems to be some confusion on when to change the plugs. I know NGK says they’re good for 100,000km , however, Honda recommends replacement at 50,000km. I would highly recommend sticking to the Honda maintenance schedule.
@@richm4402 True, I know these are iridium spark plugs but they recommend to replace at 48.000 km. I was also advised to check spark plug connectors for an internal corrosion by a local Honda service and replace them if any trace of corrosion is found. I have AT1000 (2016), maybe it's a typical problem of this first model year.
@@radekdolezel7236Mine is also a first Gen, but you’ll see the same issues with the 1100 . It’s a good idea to use a little dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug boots prior to installation. This will reduce the chances of tracing and help with removal the next time.
Discovering how difficult this is right now. Stuck on the ignition coil tray. Might just put it back together after watching this. 23k on mine.
The tray is a bugger to get out as you have to extract all the spark plug caps before it will move very far.
I found the caps very tight and hard to remove.
I believe that regular valve clearence check is to keep your valve cover bolts and cam cap bolts within a maintenece scheduel so that those bolts don't become hardend in place to the point where they break for never being unbolted from the factory, usually knowledgable mechanics will slightly under torque bolts for that reason,,,,, the threads have had many heat cycles and are not the same as new😮.
Ha. Very funny. Thanks.
I have check valve clerances 2 times on my Africa Twin 2016.
The first check around 24k km and the second time around 48k km.
I think after you have take valve clerance at 24k because is most broke in itˋs not necesery to do the valve clerance check every 24k km but 48k-50k km makes more sens to me.
So far i haveˋt make any adjustment. But is lot work to do that valve check.
Nice video. While checking valve clearance is recommended everywhere and is on my mind now and then, I’m tending to avoid at the moment and haven’t done so on any of my cars or bikes. The DR650 (13000km) still runs fine from factory and I’m nervous about any fine fiddling and messing things up but I guess it’ll need to be done and I need to learn at some point. Does the gap mostly shrinks or expands or differs between bikes? Imagine poor starting and running are symptoms valve clearances way out of spec.
The problem is if the clearance closes up the valve seats will get burned before you notice symptoms. Which means off with the head to reseat the valves.
The DR should be easy to do. Most cars have hydraulic valve clearance auto adjust.
Thank you for the information and advice. As you’ve pointed out, it’s a crucial part of regular servicing and so I’ll do so at the next interval. Kind regards.
Nice video, however I personally wouldn’t attempt to do them on my SX 1000 Kawasaki , it’s due in 5000 miles, I’ll probably change the bike before then in🏴it’s around £500 for a service and valve check including shims if required,
I should also add that valve servicing was a key factor in my choice of which bike to buy.
Yes.
i'm glad the nc 750 is a lot easier
A plug for bmw gs flat twin easy valve check + a great all round bike😊
Be glad you dont own a C50 Suzuki, you need to drop the motor down out of the frame to even get the valve covers off, when I got mine it ran like a 200cc &was very hard to start & "talked back" during deceleration, found all valves very tight, adjusted to spec and it now runs like an 800cc should starts right away & no talk back deceleration, it had 9000mi when I got it, never had its 1st checkup from dealer, it was a pain in the butt to do but well worth it, took me 3hrs.
Done many a c50, don’t know what your issue was, but, you do not need to drop the motor.
On an older bike, stripping it down for a valve clearance check is a great excuse to inspect and fix other minor issues that would not otherwise get done.
On my old vstrom it was valve check when l botherd. They were never out of specs in all the km l put on it. Triumph tiger 800 on the other hand lm not that shure about.
Moto mechanic is my work.I advise you to not skimp on manufacturer service intervals,and in some models change the oil more than said.For one bike who rarely might need adjustments,there are tens were having expensive damage of some sort
Yes. Thats the big risk. Thanks
The 1st service of my Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 was done by the bike workshop at 1000km which included a valve check. When i checked them myself at 10,000km the left intake and exhaust were very tight, the right intake ok and right exhaust very loose. Not sure how I'd know if that first check WAS actually done? I'm learning to do as much maintenance myself as I can now that I'm retired. Enjoying it and the cost saving!
Agree. It’s about more than just saving money. It’s also about KNOWING the job is done.
In my experience and that of other RE 650 owners; clearances are usually all tight at first service but don't change much at all thereafter, if anything they get loose not tight. Just done the 4th check at 33,000km and all 4 inlets were bang on, 3 exhaust very slightly loose ( 0.18mm spec, 0.2mm could go).
2018 Honda Shadow 30,000 miles has yet to need valve adjustment. Been checked 3 times so far.
There are several bikes on the marked, that do not make the valve job a torture - your 750X is one of them. There are, also, bikes that require valve job every 42-60K km. Not cheap, but at least, not so often..... I, personally, try to AVOID any bike with that "clever" design - that demands top skills to check the valves.... I also avoid the TOP HEAVY bikes - have no need in those 🤷🏻♂️
I would ignore it and hope for the best 😂
Hi Adrian, my first big bike was a Kawasaki z1b 900. I did the valve clearances at 20k miles iaw manual and only two were slightly out of spec. I changed them but thinking back it would have dine for another 20k. My current bike a Honda varadero was chked at 20k perfect, and sgaun at 40k with only one out of spec by 1 to 11/2 thou of an inch, so it will easily do another 20k. Thks
Excellent. There is a recurring theme here.
Back in the Seventies I passed my test on a Yamaha RD250 then bought the Z1b 900.
I have an NC750 DCT at the moment but your comment brought back some wonderful memories!
one the DIY owner should do is brake fluid change as called for in service intervals ....keep the water out and they last much longer.
Hard to beat the NC series bikes for ease of access amongst Japanese machines.
Always took mine to the shop as it used shims😅.
I have had the old xrv750 years ago. I have checked the clearance two times. Nothing changed between 55 thausand Kilometer.
No i wait for the right crf to give my gs800 away.
I checked my Cbf1000 last inter before selling it, 65k km. I had to change 4 shims.... Having done it once I wouldn't be scared now, you just need time and space.
Yes. I agree - the key is to work calmly and not worry about how long it takes. Thanks.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff BTW, the Cb500x has a trick where you don't need to take out the camshafts to change a shim. There's a plug in the side of the engine you remove, then remove a bar that takes off pressure from the follower. I've looked at the exploded diagram of a Transalp and it looks the same, what about the africa twin?
@mickleblade sadly the AT doesn’t have that convenient system. Have to remove cam to lift buckets then extract shim.
My bike, Yamaha xj 900f with 160.000. km , needed till now, only 1 new shim.
I checked my CRF1100L valves at 24000kms. All were within spec. Not the easiest bike to work on.
Sorry to be off topic - but I have the 2022 NC750X DCT and I'm trying to find the best way to store a kit for flat tire repair. I can fit everything in a 1Quart ziplock but I would prefer not to keep it in the frunk. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!
I’ve got mine in the seat bag on the AT. But kept it in the glove box on the NC.
I'm going to stay with my NC750X (2021) too 😂
My mecanic say, that 95% of the time when he open up a bike to check the valves, they are within specs, I done 73,000 km on my 650 bandit (07 model so all shims) at 40,000 it had it last check and all was within spec, engin is still spinning and no clicking noises, so I guess I go another season and chek them at around 80,000 km, acording to the manual it should be done every 28,000 km, but again my mecanin say that is total overkill, unless you have a RR sports bike and drive it hard or an older air coold bike with nutbolts.
Good feedback. My experience (I’m just a shed-tinkerer but have maintained 35 bikes over the years) is that once a modern jap bike is checked it stays in spec.
Hi, I have the same twin as you, I have now 74.000km on it and I also think if I should let check the clearance... I can not do this by myself.
I let the valves check two Times and they told me that it was okay.
On the other hand, I have also a honda varadero model 2006, with 194.000km, I checked the valves last time by 95.000km...
Sorry for my poor english, but I hope you know what I mean. Best regards and thanks for your video!
Thanks mate. Good feedback.
I have a MK1 Varadero and had to change one shim at 100,000 kms. The bike now has 150,000kms and I guess I'll check them the next time I pull the tank to do an air filter change.
« What’s been your experience with valves ajustement ? » : nearly 130 000 km on my cbf 1000… and never done it 😊 Yes it is a shame but the engine run like a clock.
I promise on my Moto Guzzi V85 to check valves clearance when it is time to… but of course that will be far far easier !
And from what I’ve read far more likely to be time well spent.
@@davidmatthews3093
I don’t know if I get what you meant (not natural english) but yes on a Guzzi it’s compulsory !
The necessity to remove the camshaft to change the shims is a big negative for me.
My ‘82 CB750 didn’t need this; (the shim buckets can be depressed with a special tool)- but the new shim and bucket set up seems ludicrously complicated.
I think the T7 has the screw and locknut set up, this feature alone will make it my next bike (when my KLR eventually dies).
Arrrr. T7 has shim and buckets I think you will find.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Really? My XT has adjustable tappets- I assumed it was a Yamaha thing... You just ruined my day!
Here is an excellent how-to for checking and replacing shims on the T7
ruclips.net/video/A5JZO958K-U/видео.htmlsi=2UFz89tnID32J36f
Would you say the NC750 is easier to do maintenance on?
Ha! Yes. Way easier. But possibly the NC air filter is a little more difficult to get at.
What a pain that is, Honda are good at making servicing easy but not in that case.... The vfr is even worse!
I'll stick to my nc thanks 😂🎉
The NX 750 has lock nuts?
The NC 760 has lock nuts. Not familiar with the NX.
Change oil and air filter regularly put quality and fuel and oil in it. Keep a regular track of your fuel consumption every fill-up. If nothing changes from “normal” leave it alone.. just keep regular eye on consumption and be religious with oil changes - I drop oil twice as regular as Honda recommends and change the oil filter every other time - of course if you thrash your bike go thru water crossings ride in serious dust without a descent filter if have a high compression engine or European brand, rather than Japanese, all the above no longer holds true… 😮
Good advice
I worked at a Honda shop...one ..was surprised to see that change the oil filter every other oil change in the ser man. two...we or me I should say felt the very first service with valve ck was important. That everything is as it should be going forward and valves were where they should be ...after that use your own judgment ...and maybe change your oil filter every time lol
@noellumex7555 - good advice.
Have one shadow 1100 hydraulik clerens no adjust have drive the bike 20 year 10 000 swedish mil 😊
It turns out you didn’t have to pick up washers and adjust the valves? Sorry, I just can't understand what you're saying. I can understand what you write. Thank you!
Just for peace of mind, let them checked.
When I take it to the dealer, I ask for the old parts so I know they at leadt changed them.
I am afraid their reply in case of valve clearance check would be - "it has been all in spec..., we spent a lot of hours on it but 'luckily' no spare parts were required..." It's sad to read here it's the same on all continents.
I've always wondered why it is that you never need to do this with a car engine ?
Hydraulic valve clearance adjustment on almost all cars and a few bikes - maintenance free.
You do, even on Hydraulic “maintenance” free engines.
VFR1200. Never again. Horrible job getting to the front pair. 50k km. All were in spec. Same unicam design as yours.
Think I'll be buying a Moto Guzzi 😂
Ha, and after you put the bike together you realized you left the clean rags in the air intakes, eh? Why don't the bike manufacturers come with self-adjusting lifters like in cars?
Were you looking over my shoulder. I nearly did just that.
I agree. Hydraulic valve adjustment. Fun fact - the CanAm Spyder 1300 has hydraulic valve adjustment.
Dumb question
Why? Is there an obvious answer ?
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff of course there's an obvious answer. Manufacturers don't list service intervals and what has to be done just for the sake of it.
@jeremycanning8934 - but yet all the feedback is that it’s a waste of money as they never need adjustment.
So either the manufacturer is just “covering its arse” or it’s done to give dealers extra revenue. 🤔
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff another conspiracy theorist. Last thing needed is the valve gaps to tighten and burn the valves out