Thanks for documenting the lead creation. I was tempted to buy an eBay version but luckily realized I had a Pomona brand set that worked like a charm. This will be good for future creators. Eager to see the rest of the series.
Thanks! Almost every "auction item" LC53 I see does not have the factory test leads, and from playing with the 2 units I have, it seems that 50pF is the "sweet spot" for lead capacitance to be able to zero the units. This isn't a "be all-end all" assembly procedure, but the components I used and the assembly process seemed to make for a good. finished product. There are also some leads for sale on Ebay, but it's best to contact the seller to verify that they used a low capacitance coax, and also verity that they take returns in case the leads are out of spec.
I do have some "third hand" kinds of things, but I am used to doing work with manual dexterity, I can still tie good fishing line knots, so I do OK. Thanks for the suggestion!
Thanks for documenting the lead creation. I was tempted to buy an eBay version but luckily realized I had a Pomona brand set that worked like a charm. This will be good for future creators. Eager to see the rest of the series.
Thanks! Almost every "auction item" LC53 I see does not have the factory test leads, and from playing with the 2 units I have, it seems that 50pF is the "sweet spot" for lead capacitance to be able to zero the units. This isn't a "be all-end all" assembly procedure, but the components I used and the assembly process seemed to make for a good. finished product. There are also some leads for sale on Ebay, but it's best to contact the seller to verify that they used a low capacitance coax, and also verity that they take returns in case the leads are out of spec.
A panavise would be your friend in this type of endeavor. 🙂
I do have some "third hand" kinds of things, but I am used to doing work with manual dexterity, I can still tie good fishing line knots, so I do OK. Thanks for the suggestion!