Not only having a great team behind you doing their job professionally and making Pipe Doctor successful, I think your youtube is the cherry on top ! Great Job Mike.
Hey Mike, the reason why you couldnt use the core removal tool is because thats a fitting called coremax. Theres a special remover for it thats like $600-700 dollars. Trane and Carrier uses them on their commercial RTU and some residential equipment
you have to replace the whole body on them. I believe their idea was large passageway when open, which is good for service work, but they were total junk from day one and leak the same or worse than standard schrader cores *in my opinion*. (not that I care who's wheaties I whizz in.) 🤣🤣
Those cores are the Carrier type flo maxx Schrader cores. They make a core tool for it, which is like $600-$800, which is nuts. They also sale the new cores, which is the whole body, with new seals, and not just the core itself. It's kinda crazy. I can't say with 100% confidence that you can pull a vacuum using the core maxx removal tool, or if it's just for swapping cores. Also, if I'm having trouble pulling a vacuum, I sometimes break my vacuum using a little refrigerant, rather than nitrogen, just because it seems to remove moisture a little better. I can't say that's scientifically proven, but it seems to work when I'm struggling to get the vacuum down below 400 microns. Another thing I've learned is that if I'm struggling to get a vacuum pulled, it can sometimes be because the drier is holding moisture. Love the videos! Keep up the great work!
One of those "filter driers" is probably a muffler is what they call them. They just inhibit some sound from the compressor so it's quieter for customers to enjoy the pool. You see them in some bigger systems. Generally heat pumps, but still not common
If you suspect a contaminated 410a system with Poe oil charge you change filter driers and that very hydroscopic oil in the compressor. That is the proper approach. Running a vacuum pump for a week will not pull the moisture out of the oil, because It’s a chemical bond at this point.
you pretty much "replace" the compressor in those situations, because you'll never replace enough of the oil to decontaminate and have it last for long. the damage is/was already done.
i did a repair recently on the exact system (leak was on distributor of metering device) I had the same issue with shrader cores and vacuum set up. In the end i hooked my micron gauge to the high side which gave me a more accurate reading on the micron gauge (further away from pump), also eliminated a couple fittings.
That low loss 90 fitting that’s in between the machine and the vacuum shutoff valve isn’t vacuum rated and that’s probably whats killing the vacuum . Could be moisture but having that connected you never would be able to tell.
you should have brazed in a different service port while the system had no charge to make it easier on yourself to pull a vacuum. Like servicing a r290 commercial fridge
The fitting a big scrader you need Coremax scrader tool to remove Carrier uses the hell out of them in commercial units. It was about $400 several years ago 16:29
Thanks. My repair guy just told me that we need to wait for it to be 50deg outside before they can check for the leak (using a dye pack). Does that sound right?? Could be months!
@@PipeDoctor Just read this: Yes, AC leaks are best detected and tested when it's warm outside, as the refrigerant pressure is higher and leaks are more likely to be visible or detectable. Why warm weather is optimal for AC leak testing: Increased Refrigerant Pressure: When it's warm, the refrigerant in the AC system is under higher pressure, making leaks easier to spot as they will release more refrigerant. Visibility of Leaks: Leaks can be more easily detected when the refrigerant is under higher pressure and escaping more rapidly, as it will leave a visible trail or create a noticeable hissing sound. Effective Testing: Leak detection methods like using UV dye or electronic leak detectors are more effective when the refrigerant is circulating and under pressure. What to do when it's warm: Check for Refrigerant Leaks: Look for signs of leaks, such as oil residue, hissing sounds, or a noticeable drop in refrigerant levels. Use Leak Detection Methods: Employ leak detection tools like UV dye, electronic detectors, or soapy water to identify leaks in the AC system. Professional Inspection: If you suspect a leak, it's best to have a professional HVAC technician inspect and diagnose the problem. In summary, warm weather provides the best conditions for detecting and testing AC leaks due to the increased refrigerant pressure and visibility of leaks.
If those dryers had moisture captured then surely the time it took makes sense to me. Vaccum to 500 is over-rated anyways. They're more useful for metering device screens 😊
sure if you consider owning, maintaining and heating a pool starts off at negative 3000%+ efficiency 🤣 either a good troll or government accountant in the wind/wave/solar energy sections 🥳🥳
10:52 did they try to silver solder overtop a brazed joint? yikes, it sure looked that way. clean bare copper, with snug fitting sockets fully inserted are needed for silver solder. NO bridging gaps, covering holes, repairing brazed joints, butt joints, shallow sockets or other leak repairs, etc. the same problem occurs with many braze joints, lack of socket depth, lack of the braze actually being into the joints, rim soldered and bird poo piles are really never the right way. which includes may of those factory joints of pressure switch stubs, service ports and more. they know it's not right and do it anyway. 🙄
Hey Mike, can you turn over your credit card, next time so I can copy down your numbers on the back of the card, Haha just kidding, not into theft but if you want to donate to my fund. But anyway good job, I thought the customer was going to try and scam you about the welds, and say you did the weld last time, Total BS.
you need a coremax tool to remove those fittings its not a regular schrader pin mostly seen in commercial hvac.
It's nice to see that they also check the temperatures after the repair to ensure everything is working properly
When you call mike, you know it's done right!
Not only having a great team behind you doing their job professionally and making Pipe Doctor successful, I think your youtube is the cherry on top ! Great Job Mike.
When I used the stay, bright eight, I was called a rogue installer.
New driers and Nitro blast was needed , but non the less always doing a good job 🤙🏼🙏🏼
Hey Mike, the reason why you couldnt use the core removal tool is because thats a fitting called coremax. Theres a special remover for it thats like $600-700 dollars. Trane and Carrier uses them on their commercial RTU and some residential equipment
@@PipeDoctor no problem! They are notorious for leaking. I usually cut them out and put in braze type access tees.
you have to replace the whole body on them. I believe their idea was large passageway when open, which is good for service work, but they were total junk from day one and leak the same or worse than standard schrader cores *in my opinion*. (not that I care who's wheaties I whizz in.) 🤣🤣
Big blu is the best leak detector bubbles on the market period.
Mikey, Big Blu needs the valve opened up to get a full stream, closed down with all those bubbles makes it pretty hard to see true micro bubbles.
Thé videos must make the time on site longer so more money for hourly work. Nice little thing u got
Donated to your charity fund Mikey, i think thats fucking amazing what your doing. Keep it up!
The use of a leak detector solution and ultra sonic method sounds interesting Can't wait to see how it's done
Purge Mikey purge. And the drier should have definitely been replaced.
Dryers are over rated.. I like them as screens before the metering devices tho 🤔
Just because you don't see it doesn't mean it didn't happen
It's great that they're emphasizing saving time and money on professional repairs
Those cores are the Carrier type flo maxx Schrader cores. They make a core tool for it, which is like $600-$800, which is nuts. They also sale the new cores, which is the whole body, with new seals, and not just the core itself. It's kinda crazy. I can't say with 100% confidence that you can pull a vacuum using the core maxx removal tool, or if it's just for swapping cores. Also, if I'm having trouble pulling a vacuum, I sometimes break my vacuum using a little refrigerant, rather than nitrogen, just because it seems to remove moisture a little better. I can't say that's scientifically proven, but it seems to work when I'm struggling to get the vacuum down below 400 microns. Another thing I've learned is that if I'm struggling to get a vacuum pulled, it can sometimes be because the drier is holding moisture. Love the videos! Keep up the great work!
He's correct that's a core max valve alot trane package units have that but you could Crack those with a speed wrench or a smal adjustable wrench.
This guide seems really helpful for people who are experiencing refrigerant leaks in their heat pump outdoor unit
Coremax look s like service port
It is a coremax as some have said. If you pull the high and low pressure switches, you can pull the cores n pull a vacuum
One of those "filter driers" is probably a muffler is what they call them. They just inhibit some sound from the compressor so it's quieter for customers to enjoy the pool. You see them in some bigger systems. Generally heat pumps, but still not common
If you suspect a contaminated 410a system with Poe oil charge you change filter driers and that very hydroscopic oil in the compressor. That is the proper approach. Running a vacuum pump for a week will not pull the moisture out of the oil, because It’s a chemical bond at this point.
you pretty much "replace" the compressor in those situations, because you'll never replace enough of the oil to decontaminate and have it last for long. the damage is/was already done.
Next time bang on the compressor shell and watch the micron gauge spike, helps get stuff out the oil.
i did a repair recently on the exact system (leak was on distributor of metering device) I had the same issue with shrader cores and vacuum set up. In the end i hooked my micron gauge to the high side which gave me a more accurate reading on the micron gauge (further away from pump), also eliminated a couple fittings.
That low loss 90 fitting that’s in between the machine and the vacuum shutoff valve isn’t vacuum rated and that’s probably whats killing the vacuum . Could be moisture but having that connected you never would be able to tell.
You need a core max tool for that hi flow core they are about $500 that’s all carrier uses on their package units
you should have brazed in a different service port while the system had no charge to make it easier on yourself to pull a vacuum. Like servicing a r290 commercial fridge
I have that same tool ultrasonic leak detector. They’re great.
The fitting a big scrader you need Coremax scrader tool to remove Carrier uses the hell out of them in commercial units. It was about $400 several years ago 16:29
Yeah I heard. F that. I ain’t buying it
You should've cut that out and use a Braze tee access valve you could pick them up from United Refrigeration
Purge on the high side and let it blow out the low. The valves in the compressor will keep it from going backwards.
It’s really the only asset you have when there’s no isolation valves.
Smashed it
@@PipeDoctor optimus prime, autobots, transform......
Mike. What’s the water temp inside the condenser?
@@PipeDoctor optimus prime, autobots, transform......
What was causing the staybrite 8 too leak??
There are many comments. I have question my AC service person refused to answer. Is a $200-350 soft start worth the price?
Where peterpan?
Hes With Latinas chicas
@@PipeDoctor optimus prime, autobots, transform....
Thanks. My repair guy just told me that we need to wait for it to be 50deg outside before they can check for the leak (using a dye pack). Does that sound right?? Could be months!
i smell BULL SHIT
@@PipeDoctor Just read this: Yes, AC leaks are best detected and tested when it's warm outside, as the refrigerant pressure is higher and leaks are more likely to be visible or detectable.
Why warm weather is optimal for AC leak testing:
Increased Refrigerant Pressure:
When it's warm, the refrigerant in the AC system is under higher pressure, making leaks easier to spot as they will release more refrigerant.
Visibility of Leaks:
Leaks can be more easily detected when the refrigerant is under higher pressure and escaping more rapidly, as it will leave a visible trail or create a noticeable hissing sound.
Effective Testing:
Leak detection methods like using UV dye or electronic leak detectors are more effective when the refrigerant is circulating and under pressure.
What to do when it's warm:
Check for Refrigerant Leaks:
Look for signs of leaks, such as oil residue, hissing sounds, or a noticeable drop in refrigerant levels.
Use Leak Detection Methods:
Employ leak detection tools like UV dye, electronic detectors, or soapy water to identify leaks in the AC system.
Professional Inspection:
If you suspect a leak, it's best to have a professional HVAC technician inspect and diagnose the problem.
In summary, warm weather provides the best conditions for detecting and testing AC leaks due to the increased refrigerant pressure and visibility of leaks.
Sure looks like there's another leak, and why didn't you replace dryer?
@@PipeDoctor So tough luck on customer who called you? Nice!
Stay bright eight do you like using it? I have had people talk bad about it here in Seattle.
@@PipeDoctor we stopped using it at our shop also
Mice chewed a few thermistor wires on my same pool heater
Little raskles
Deport the mice
Mike u cant respond to everything u are working in the field u are not at a desk all day lol keep the videos coming…. HVAC life is real stay hydrated
If those dryers had moisture captured then surely the time it took makes sense to me. Vaccum to 500 is over-rated anyways. They're more useful for metering device screens 😊
Pool heat pumps are 300% to 700% efficient!!!
sure if you consider owning, maintaining and heating a pool starts off at negative 3000%+ efficiency 🤣
either a good troll or government accountant in the wind/wave/solar energy sections 🥳🥳
10:52 did they try to silver solder overtop a brazed joint? yikes, it sure looked that way.
clean bare copper, with snug fitting sockets fully inserted are needed for silver solder. NO bridging gaps, covering holes, repairing brazed joints, butt joints, shallow sockets or other leak repairs, etc. the same problem occurs with many braze joints, lack of socket depth, lack of the braze actually being into the joints, rim soldered and bird poo piles are really never the right way.
which includes may of those factory joints of pressure switch stubs, service ports and more. they know it's not right and do it anyway. 🙄
That’s not ultrasound btw
optimus prime, autobots, transform......
shes a leaker mama
>2 hours estimate when you have to whip out the vacuum pump
Lol cmon Mikey...
Hey Mike, can you turn over your credit card, next time so I can copy down your numbers on the back of the card, Haha just kidding, not into theft but if you want to donate to my fund. But anyway good job, I thought the customer was going to try and scam you about the welds, and say you did the weld last time, Total BS.
....nothing worse than having and swimming in a pool.... go to the local, lake, pond, ocean, sea. 😏
Is this channel a joke?
Measurequick has a pressure/temp compensated test
They also charge you $5 for taking a fucking screencap of your phone screen
Fuck measurequick
HACKS Bring you BIG STACKS of CASH.💰 What is the Average Number of Years that a TRUE HACK 🤪 stays in Bidnez before Customers Come to their Senses ? 🤪👎
Indefinitely hacks live forever