Sorry! The graphic at 13:10 wasn’t on the correct layer during rendering and it was posted before we realized. Here’s what you missed: TOP 5 Fails for Easy Maintenance for Winter to Spring 1. NEW BAR TAPE (handlebar safety check after winter season) 2. DON’T CLAMP YOUR CARBON FRAME 3. CLEAN DIRTY DRIVETRAINS 4. DON’T USE AEROSOL SPRAYS NEAR DISC BRAKES 5. BE MINDFUL OF THRU-AXLES & QUICK RELEASES (find those clicking & creaking noises) Also in the description.
I use a 12 yr old road bike that lives permanently on the wheel on trainer. It has the stock front wheel, no brakes, used but still great mechanical 10 speed drivetrain and shifters. If there is corrosion or wear, I can replace out parts from my old parts bin without as much worry about outside failures. I still keep it clean and haven’t had to replace anything (besides chains and cassettes - and that is infrequent too) in 5 years of lots of use and sweat year round. Nice peace of mind and less worry when outside on my main bike too. Also, I’m more likely to jump on a bike trainer if there’s no setup ahead of time. Enjoy the winter everyone in the North.
Number 6 Winter Fail: Deciding to get a set of bling new GP5000s for the spring and then spending close to 2h per tire to put them on your rims. Questioning various life choices right now.
Coming from the MTB: These are still easy to get on compared to MTB tires. My top tips from the MTB: Soapy water and the Crankbrothers Speedier Lever as a tool.
I wrap my bar with some rags during indoor sessions and turn the fan on. That way it’s not seeing any of my sweat. Apart from the saddle maybe 😄 The dust on the chain is definitely a problem combined with the lube. So in the autumn I waxed and have been completely maintenance free across winter.
I always wear gloves even when riding inside just to keep the bar(tape) clean! I just bought a new handlebar and when I took of the bartape of the old one after2.5 years everything was still spotless (note: that bike hasn't seen rain...) And forget "noisy chains".. please silent your hub if you want me to ride with you.
With the salt under bar tape, check bleed port screws. I’ve had problems before with my sweat corroding and eating away at the bleed screw which resulted in the loss of fluid and thus breaking function
If your bike is creaking and clicking you to insanity and you ´ve tried everything then have a look at the derailleur hanger :) After checking BB, pedals, cassette, seat post and saddle I discovered my hanger was loose and tightened it. The relief of having a quiet bike again was immense😊
Ha! I honestly haven't heard of that one being an issue before, but makes sense when I think of some of the designs out there and how they interface with the frame and hub! Thanks!
I really like your recent maintenance videos. I’ve been a Silca user from the start and have a product idea for you Josh. Could a reliable chain and cassette wear measuring instrument be made for the masses ? Hope the answer is yes. Thanks, Dave
Additional thing to this list some have mentioned. I recommend cleaning BB and headset bearings. After a winter of indoor riding they are common places for sweat build up too. Clean and wipe front derailleur too the metal can and will eventually corrode from riding and sweat. Rim or disc check and clean all hardware it does corrode from sweat. Check sealant levels clean presta valves. Replace tubes and or worn tires. Clean disc brakes and replace pads if needed. Check chain if over stretched replace. If live in dry climate consider going to a hot wax lube over oil. Replace shoe cleats if worn. Odd one but if have 2 or 3 chain rings make sure the bolts are in good condition and torqued properly had them come loose 1 time ever and it can make a sketchy ride back. If running electronic gearing make sure have firmware up dates and a charged battery. Check wheel hubs spokes and spoke nipples especially front for corrosion if doing a lot of indoor riding. Properly true and tension spokes on wheels or have it done. Final advice if you dont know what to look for or how to do the work take it to a mechanic that is trustworthy and follow their advise dont break your machine.
My advice - for indoor training use your old bike - the one you don't ride outside anymore. Save your good bike from being twisted and torque'd on that torture rack, not to mention (as Josh did) all the damage from sweat. In my bike shop daze I'd ask the owner of a very corroded bike how much diet soda he drank. "How do you know that?" would be his surprised answer. Wash (don't just wipe) that stuff off!!!! A clean bike is a happy bike! Here's a question for you or Sean - are carbon seatposts easy to damage with clamp-type workstands? I've (lightly) clamped round ones now and then but hesitate with non-round versions. My standard is a workstand that clamps the dropouts with a skewer - which requires an adaptor for thru-axle bikes. An extra step for sure, but one that pretty much insures that you're not gonna damage anything.
Nice video, like usual 👍 Exactly the same problem solver for my titanium bike. I was looking for the noise source during months and months…direction, BB, saddle…and at the end it was the thrue axle…
Is it actually corrosion which makes the axle unable to loosen? It‘s cold welding when you thread same materials like aluminum to aluminum… you really need to grease that thread with an anti seize
In case you still ride alloy rims and rim brakes, do yourself (and your bike) the favour and put on new brake pads in spring, and clean the rims properly, e.g. Mavic has a special cleaning tool, it looks black and is a cuboid formed block which feels like some kind of rubber, but it helps to get a smoothed braking surface, which also helps to increase the braking performance. During winter, there seems to be a lot of sand on the road (at least here in Germany), which leads the brake pads picking up small alloy parts, which then scratch the rim and cause and increased rim wear.
Good video as always. I can attest to the handlebar problem. A couple of years a ago I was using a circa 2013 Specialized Roubaix with Ultegra for indoors and my aluminum handlebars dissolved to my shock. I think was during Covid and the short supply and my bike shop around the block only had a carbon fiber bars in stock and I paid the premium to get back riding ASAP. Felt it was good karma as I like to support the local shop as they give me fantastic service.
Good video, one question on top tube failures. So clamping the top tube in the repair stand is definitely a no go a dangerous, but does sitting on the top tube at a red light put the same kind of torque pressures on the top tube or is that generally safe?
Some of the modern, ultra-light frames have 'no sitting' labels on the top tube. If you think about it from the frame designers perspective, you might have 5 plies of carbon in that tube in the middle and then you realize you need an additional ply to handle sitting and 2 additional plies to handle light clamping.. so do you add 20-40% additional weight to that tube? Sadly, in most cases the answer it 'Yes'.. but imagine what is possible if we could remove those constraints!
Silca seatbag... check, got it love it. Silca pump... check, got it love it. Silca brake and drivetrain cleaner... check, got it love it. Silca drip wax... check, got it love it. Silca/Vittoria latex tubes... check, got it love it. Next up Silca bar tape.
Two questions for Josh: 1. What is your opinion on a full wrap with electrical tape under the bar tape? 2. Would it be possible to make a test strip that tells you if your chain stripper is saturated and needs replacing? Sidenote on the creaks: Loose chainring bolts are often overlooked and can creak a lot.
as a mechanic, bars taped like that are a serious PITA. Turns into a sticky, nasty mess and isn't needed. Give a single width wrap in 2 places and you're good
@@GummeeH3you gotta change tapes. The popular 3M Super 33+ and Super 88 adhesive is black and gets gummy with use. Many other tapes are available, and most of the less expensive tapes simply work better. They remove cleanly, and the tape doesn't migrate or creep back over time. I'm currently using 3M 175 and some random brand called Tegan.
Blue shop towel is really for cleaning up spills and things that aren't your bike. They tend to leave a lot of lint and depending on brand can cause micro scratches and swirl marks as they are made from coarsely pulped paper. Ideally you would use microfiber for everything wiping related and then use tampico brushes for anything where you need more aggressive cleaning action.
Clamping a round, aluminum seatpost is no problem.. even old school round, carbon posts are mostly OK.. the problem is that most modern posts are non-round, and also are not designed for clamping outside of a range (look at the back and see if there is a MIN and MAX clamp mark..) Designers are using ever thinner wall posts to mitigate vibration and allow for additional compliance.. but to do this, we end up with parts that might be excellent in one load condition and poor in another (like clamping!)
Clamping a frame (not only carbon, I have a tin-thin Caad that you could easily crush in a clamp) is something that even really good mechanics do - what other options they have with a regular stand? One more reason to stick with round seatposts if you ask me :)
Perfect explanation on why it's a bad idea to clamp your top tube in your stand, thank you! Aside: looks like the summary text overlay didn't make the final cut at 13:10, whoops!
Sorry! The graphic wasn’t on the correct layer during rendering and it was posted before we realized. Here’s what you missed: TOP 5 Fails for Easy Maintenance for Winter to Spring 1. NEW BAR TAPE (handlebar safety check after winter season) 2. DON’T CLAMP YOUR CARBON FRAME 3. CLEAN DIRTY DRIVETRAINS 4. DON’T USE AEROSOL SPRAYS NEAR DISC BRAKES 5. BE MINDFUL OF THRU-AXLES & QUICK RELEASES (find those clicking & creaking noises)
Pro Tip, clean that $50 bar tape by putting into a laundry bag & wash on delicate. Dry it in a food dehydrator for 25h then use your fav colour electrical tape to rescuer! But Pro’s get free new bar tape so disregard.
Even I know to not clamp a carbon frame... yet I see team mechanics building world tour bikes clamping frames. Job title is not a cure for being an idiot. Neither is age, education, or experience.
Most world tour mechanics I've ever seen use a front wheel off/clamp the bike in the dropouts sort of workstand so they can spin the thing around and get the backside clean quickly
I put my carbon bike in clamps all the time IF I'm not doing anything thats putting force on the bike like cleaning, lubing replacing cables etc. The clamps being on the frame doesn't mean there's even 2psi of pressure on it
@@veganpotterthevegan simply bumping into the frame when it's clamped around a tube can be enough to damage it. Things get bumped. A method which is fine unless some stupid little accident happens but can then lead to the bike potentially suffering a catastrophic failure might not be the best method.
@mikekrasovec6390 yeah, that can happen when I bike is just on the ground😅 That said, the only carbon frame that's been broken while on bikes that I've seen came from someone dropping a torque wrench on chainstays. Funny thing is they they were doing a low torque install and this would have happened if the frame were in the stand vs leaning against it
@@veganpotterthevegan after 22 years of wrenching bikes I've seen my share of "it's probably fine" moments that resulted in a big headache. I will add that it isn't just carbon frames that are at risk when it comes to workstand clamps - anything lightweight with thin walled tubing can be iffy. Given the price of a nice frame, cost of labor to strip a bike down to a frame and then build it back into a bike after the frame is worked on... plus the possibility of parts not being compatible if the new frame doesn't have 100% compatibility with the old if the frame gets replaced. Btw if you don't want to spend the money to buy a frame clamp such as a silca hirobel you can make one quite easily out of a piece of wood, padding such as old inner tubes and straps.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Sorry! The graphic at 13:10 wasn’t on the correct layer during rendering and it was posted before we realized.
Here’s what you missed:
TOP 5 Fails for Easy Maintenance for Winter to Spring
1. NEW BAR TAPE (handlebar safety check after winter season)
2. DON’T CLAMP YOUR CARBON FRAME
3. CLEAN DIRTY DRIVETRAINS
4. DON’T USE AEROSOL SPRAYS NEAR DISC BRAKES
5. BE MINDFUL OF THRU-AXLES & QUICK RELEASES (find those clicking & creaking noises)
Also in the description.
Getting ready for spring??? That’s wishful thinking in the middle of January here…I’ll start prepping for spring in late March.
I use a 12 yr old road bike that lives permanently on the wheel on trainer. It has the stock front wheel, no brakes, used but still great mechanical 10 speed drivetrain and shifters. If there is corrosion or wear, I can replace out parts from my old parts bin without as much worry about outside failures. I still keep it clean and haven’t had to replace anything (besides chains and cassettes - and that is infrequent too) in 5 years of lots of use and sweat year round. Nice peace of mind and less worry when outside on my main bike too. Also, I’m more likely to jump on a bike trainer if there’s no setup ahead of time. Enjoy the winter everyone in the North.
Silca hot wax and tire pressure chart really made a significant improvement in my bike’s performance.
Clamp and old drop bar in the stand (turned up) and then sit your bike in the cradle. Put some tape or rubber on the bar so as not to mar the finish.
Check your tubeless sealant levels and clean out your presto valves in the spring too...
Number 6 Winter Fail: Deciding to get a set of bling new GP5000s for the spring and then spending close to 2h per tire to put them on your rims. Questioning various life choices right now.
I literally just did that last weekend. I’ve gotten real good at using metal tire levers….broken a gazillion plastic ones!
Pirelli tires don't have that problem. Especially useful on the side of the road. It's why I gave up on Contis.
Get yourself a Kool Stop Tire Bead Jack
@@jordanolson5013 ?
Coming from the MTB: These are still easy to get on compared to MTB tires. My top tips from the MTB: Soapy water and the Crankbrothers Speedier Lever as a tool.
I use my indoor bike trainer as a repair stand.😅
An idea for a good video: how to clean dried sealant from tubeless tires? Keep these videos coming
I stopped watching the video and just bought the Hirobel clamp. I'm back.
Edit added a couple of weeks later. I love it!!!
Helpful, thank you!
I wrap my bar with some rags during indoor sessions and turn the fan on. That way it’s not seeing any of my sweat. Apart from the saddle maybe 😄
The dust on the chain is definitely a problem combined with the lube. So in the autumn I waxed and have been completely maintenance free across winter.
Josh, thanks again. Would love to say spring is coming, but...😊
I always wear gloves even when riding inside just to keep the bar(tape) clean! I just bought a new handlebar and when I took of the bartape of the old one after2.5 years everything was still spotless (note: that bike hasn't seen rain...)
And forget "noisy chains".. please silent your hub if you want me to ride with you.
It's astonishing how many bike mechanic's fail. Of course, I wouldn't know this without my Silca education. Thanks! 👍
With the salt under bar tape, check bleed port screws. I’ve had problems before with my sweat corroding and eating away at the bleed screw which resulted in the loss of fluid and thus breaking function
If your bike is creaking and clicking you to insanity and you ´ve tried everything then have a look at the derailleur hanger :) After checking BB, pedals, cassette, seat post and saddle I discovered my hanger was loose and tightened it. The relief of having a quiet bike again was immense😊
Ha! I honestly haven't heard of that one being an issue before, but makes sense when I think of some of the designs out there and how they interface with the frame and hub! Thanks!
I really like your recent maintenance videos.
I’ve been a Silca user from the start and have a product idea for you Josh.
Could a reliable chain and cassette wear measuring instrument be made for the masses ?
Hope the answer is yes.
Thanks, Dave
Additional thing to this list some have mentioned. I recommend cleaning BB and headset bearings. After a winter of indoor riding they are common places for sweat build up too. Clean and wipe front derailleur too the metal can and will eventually corrode from riding and sweat. Rim or disc check and clean all hardware it does corrode from sweat. Check sealant levels clean presta valves. Replace tubes and or worn tires. Clean disc brakes and replace pads if needed. Check chain if over stretched replace. If live in dry climate consider going to a hot wax lube over oil. Replace shoe cleats if worn. Odd one but if have 2 or 3 chain rings make sure the bolts are in good condition and torqued properly had them come loose 1 time ever and it can make a sketchy ride back. If running electronic gearing make sure have firmware up dates and a charged battery. Check wheel hubs spokes and spoke nipples especially front for corrosion if doing a lot of indoor riding. Properly true and tension spokes on wheels or have it done. Final advice if you dont know what to look for or how to do the work take it to a mechanic that is trustworthy and follow their advise dont break your machine.
Good stuff!!
It’s incredibly fortuitous that Silca sells a solution to each of these concerns!!
My advice - for indoor training use your old bike - the one you don't ride outside anymore. Save your good bike from being twisted and torque'd on that torture rack, not to mention (as Josh did) all the damage from sweat.
In my bike shop daze I'd ask the owner of a very corroded bike how much diet soda he drank. "How do you know that?" would be his surprised answer. Wash (don't just wipe) that stuff off!!!! A clean bike is a happy bike!
Here's a question for you or Sean - are carbon seatposts easy to damage with clamp-type workstands? I've (lightly) clamped round ones now and then but hesitate with non-round versions. My standard is a workstand that clamps the dropouts with a skewer - which requires an adaptor for thru-axle bikes. An extra step for sure, but one that pretty much insures that you're not gonna damage anything.
Nice video, like usual 👍
Exactly the same problem solver for my titanium bike. I was looking for the noise source during months and months…direction, BB, saddle…and at the end it was the thrue axle…
Is it actually corrosion which makes the axle unable to loosen? It‘s cold welding when you thread same materials like aluminum to aluminum… you really need to grease that thread with an anti seize
You should see the Buycycle adverts. Front and center bikes being clamped wrong 🤦♂️
No need for bar tape while Zwifting, take it off before starting winter training. Just bought my Silca hirobel (love it).
In case you still ride alloy rims and rim brakes, do yourself (and your bike) the favour and put on new brake pads in spring, and clean the rims properly, e.g. Mavic has a special cleaning tool, it looks black and is a cuboid formed block which feels like some kind of rubber, but it helps to get a smoothed braking surface, which also helps to increase the braking performance. During winter, there seems to be a lot of sand on the road (at least here in Germany), which leads the brake pads picking up small alloy parts, which then scratch the rim and cause and increased rim wear.
Good video as always. I can attest to the handlebar problem. A couple of years a ago I was using a circa 2013 Specialized Roubaix with Ultegra for indoors and my aluminum handlebars dissolved to my shock. I think was during Covid and the short supply and my bike shop around the block only had a carbon fiber bars in stock and I paid the premium to get back riding ASAP. Felt it was good karma as I like to support the local shop as they give me fantastic service.
What do you recommend for lubricating derailerur pivot points?
Good video, one question on top tube failures. So clamping the top tube in the repair stand is definitely a no go a dangerous, but does sitting on the top tube at a red light put the same kind of torque pressures on the top tube or is that generally safe?
Some of the modern, ultra-light frames have 'no sitting' labels on the top tube. If you think about it from the frame designers perspective, you might have 5 plies of carbon in that tube in the middle and then you realize you need an additional ply to handle sitting and 2 additional plies to handle light clamping.. so do you add 20-40% additional weight to that tube? Sadly, in most cases the answer it 'Yes'.. but imagine what is possible if we could remove those constraints!
Silca seatbag... check, got it love it. Silca pump... check, got it love it. Silca brake and drivetrain cleaner... check, got it love it. Silca drip wax... check, got it love it. Silca/Vittoria latex tubes... check, got it love it. Next up Silca bar tape.
Two questions for Josh:
1. What is your opinion on a full wrap with electrical tape under the bar tape?
2. Would it be possible to make a test strip that tells you if your chain stripper is saturated and needs replacing?
Sidenote on the creaks: Loose chainring bolts are often overlooked and can creak a lot.
as a mechanic, bars taped like that are a serious PITA. Turns into a sticky, nasty mess and isn't needed. Give a single width wrap in 2 places and you're good
@@GummeeH3you gotta change tapes. The popular 3M Super 33+ and Super 88 adhesive is black and gets gummy with use. Many other tapes are available, and most of the less expensive tapes simply work better. They remove cleanly, and the tape doesn't migrate or creep back over time. I'm currently using 3M 175 and some random brand called Tegan.
When to use a microfiber towel vs shop towel (the blue ones)?
Blue shop towel is really for cleaning up spills and things that aren't your bike. They tend to leave a lot of lint and depending on brand can cause micro scratches and swirl marks as they are made from coarsely pulped paper. Ideally you would use microfiber for everything wiping related and then use tampico brushes for anything where you need more aggressive cleaning action.
What about clamping your seat post and if it’s a carbon seat post? Is it the clamping force or the angle in which you are clamping?
Clamping a round, aluminum seatpost is no problem.. even old school round, carbon posts are mostly OK.. the problem is that most modern posts are non-round, and also are not designed for clamping outside of a range (look at the back and see if there is a MIN and MAX clamp mark..) Designers are using ever thinner wall posts to mitigate vibration and allow for additional compliance.. but to do this, we end up with parts that might be excellent in one load condition and poor in another (like clamping!)
Clamping a frame (not only carbon, I have a tin-thin Caad that you could easily crush in a clamp) is something that even really good mechanics do - what other options they have with a regular stand? One more reason to stick with round seatposts if you ask me :)
Cleaning pedals is where I usually start with creaking and clicking
Perfect explanation on why it's a bad idea to clamp your top tube in your stand, thank you!
Aside: looks like the summary text overlay didn't make the final cut at 13:10, whoops!
Sorry! The graphic wasn’t on the correct layer during rendering and it was posted before we realized.
Here’s what you missed:
TOP 5 Fails for Easy Maintenance for Winter to Spring
1. NEW BAR TAPE (handlebar safety check after winter season)
2. DON’T CLAMP YOUR CARBON FRAME
3. CLEAN DIRTY DRIVETRAINS
4. DON’T USE AEROSOL SPRAYS NEAR DISC BRAKES
5. BE MINDFUL OF THRU-AXLES & QUICK RELEASES (find those clicking & creaking noises)
Headset removal, cleaning and re-grease. You'll likely be shocked how bad your lower headset bearing looks.
In my case that fake BB clicking ended up seat clamping mech, so yeah - get stuff cleaned and lubed and be a happy rider
Pro Tip, clean that $50 bar tape by putting into a laundry bag & wash on delicate. Dry it in a food dehydrator for 25h then use your fav colour electrical tape to rescuer! But Pro’s get free new bar tape so disregard.
Aluminum? Does not compute
Unsure what you mean here? Please clarify
Do not ride indoors. If you do you are "Big girls blouses" as we say in Yorkshire 🤣 -3 degrees C 26 Fahrenheit. Riding soon.
I've definitely used the same bar tape for close to 100k miles😂
*carbon bars
I just don’t get the indoor “cycling” thing. I’d far rather watch paint dry
Even I know to not clamp a carbon frame... yet I see team mechanics building world tour bikes clamping frames. Job title is not a cure for being an idiot. Neither is age, education, or experience.
Most world tour mechanics I've ever seen use a front wheel off/clamp the bike in the dropouts sort of workstand so they can spin the thing around and get the backside clean quickly
I put my carbon bike in clamps all the time IF I'm not doing anything thats putting force on the bike like cleaning, lubing replacing cables etc. The clamps being on the frame doesn't mean there's even 2psi of pressure on it
@@veganpotterthevegan simply bumping into the frame when it's clamped around a tube can be enough to damage it. Things get bumped. A method which is fine unless some stupid little accident happens but can then lead to the bike potentially suffering a catastrophic failure might not be the best method.
@mikekrasovec6390 yeah, that can happen when I bike is just on the ground😅 That said, the only carbon frame that's been broken while on bikes that I've seen came from someone dropping a torque wrench on chainstays. Funny thing is they they were doing a low torque install and this would have happened if the frame were in the stand vs leaning against it
@@veganpotterthevegan after 22 years of wrenching bikes I've seen my share of "it's probably fine" moments that resulted in a big headache. I will add that it isn't just carbon frames that are at risk when it comes to workstand clamps - anything lightweight with thin walled tubing can be iffy. Given the price of a nice frame, cost of labor to strip a bike down to a frame and then build it back into a bike after the frame is worked on... plus the possibility of parts not being compatible if the new frame doesn't have 100% compatibility with the old if the frame gets replaced. Btw if you don't want to spend the money to buy a frame clamp such as a silca hirobel you can make one quite easily out of a piece of wood, padding such as old inner tubes and straps.
What planet do you live on that it's almost spring?? We have two more months to go buddy. Easy there...