Love watching a video of a great father who teaches their son the techniques and the trades and life has it on to them and it's great to see that father and son
Our eyes tend to get a little dimmer with each passing year. I've been doing that trick with the phone for several years. Also comes in real handy when you need to see something like the back side of a transverse mounted engine when there's no room to get your head back there. Amazing little instruments, they are!
Yes! I had to look behind a flat screen TV the other day in a spot where moving the TV was out of the question, except for a few inches. The phone's camera made a great pic of the connectors which I couldn't see, unless I had a mirror.
While I agree with right to repair, the complications here is mainly safety systems to protect dumbasses from burning their house down. Much of that is things like tipover sensors and are mandated by fire code Eectronics is the cheapest way to implement them. If you are careful and capable of common sense, you probably don't need them but these are marketed to the general public so.... I have repaired quite a few of these types of heaters over the years. The problem always seems to be the fuel line gets brittle and cracks somewhere. They work by siphoning fuel via vacuum created with a ventury using the fan and the cracks allow air to enter breaking the siphon. Replacing the fuel lines usually does it in my experience.
You can order replacement parts from Mr Heater, so right to repair isn't at issue here, though I agree that RTR needs to be pushed. And all the complexity is there for the safety features so that you can simply flip a switch and walk away. Older versions would have had thermocouples and such, so no electronics, but sensitive mechanical components that needed frequent cleaning and adjustment. This uses an optical flame sensor, which is much more reliable and needs no maintenence. It's what most of the commercial boilers and furnaces and such use.
I looked for the technical manual and found out that the main board usually locked these things out due to igniter failure or low fuel pressure failure . But you solved the issue doing it the smart way and just eliminating the stupid control board altogether. Youd make a good HVAC technician. Cheers on this repair !
Been in this house 20 years now, and used a kerosene heater out in the 2 car garage when working out there. I've had to replace the 1st one as it just plain wore out. 2nd one died after 3 years of use. Bought a propane one for less money than another kerosene unit. Love it. Adjustable heat setting, and a 20 pound tank last longer than what the 5 gallons of kerosene did. Bonus of no more kerosene exhaust smell.
I once used a propane tower not a patio tower but like a jobsite tower style in my 12 x 16 shed and my guys came in for lunch and they all felt sick as dogs after lunch We never used it again
5 gallons of Kerosene has more heating value than 20lb of propane and combustion efficiency on both will be >99% so the claim of lasting longer cannot be true even if you think it is. Propane has its benefits though.
There’s a storm pushing across the country that reaches southwest Texas to northern Maine. And it’s hitting today. I have a feeling Mr. Heater is going to be putting in some work over the next couple of days. Great work Isaac!!
Setting here at a negative 22 below zero watching you talk about cold weather at 20 above zero. Course I’m in north west Wisconsin. Stay warm and safe.
I've had to replace lots of control board relays. Not too difficult if you're somewhat handy with a test meter and a soldering iron. But you probably found the quickest solution to solve the issue.
I live just North of Ft. Worth and it’s slick. But if you get that running and want to sell it,( delivered) Thursday we may want to t. No seriously really enjoy your job and video, thanks for sharing. Please stay safe and healthy y’all
Nice job 😁 Install a differential pressure switch, to cut off fuel when the fan isn't turning. Available at every HVAC store, it's not expensive. The white little pill was the temperature sensor. I don't think you really need it.
Brilliant idea with the piece of paper in the end of the driver! Man I've struggled for so many years and kind of annoyed I hadn't thought of something so simple like that hahaha. Welder by trade and really appreciate your hard honest work. Thanks for sharing it as always! Enjoy the non welding videos too. Never stop posting vids!! 👍😎 👍
Isaac, years ago I had a 100,000 btu heater that the high voltage transformer had quit working on, so I replaced it with a neon sign transformer, and it again operated as it should. You bypassing the control board just makes it operate like the older heaters did.
Looks good! I DO see a small problem tho, @5:13 you remove a small thermostat with two red wires going to it, this now leaves a big hole in the fire box which is blowing red hot air onto the copper fuel line, I would re-attach the Thermostat and bolt it down to block the hole to not pre-heat the fuel line, even tho it wont be hooked up anymore- seems like a recipe for disaster leaving hot flaming air to blow on the metal fuel lines! Hahaha
the thermostat is just behind the fan, with a little luck it is just blowing cold air in the electrics compartment. in that case it will reduce the efficiency of the fan. I agree with you, close that hole!
A small advice here: you can modify it so the fan switch kill the fuel pump too, this way the pump doesn't start unless the fan is already on. Good job!
It's a shame with so many great ideas that could be lifelong appliances only to be sabotaged by cost cutting shortcuts. An inexpensive component on the pc board? cheap sensor? They turn into a disappointing expensive broken product that was a waste of money to just be thrown away. A few cents more, and a brand name could have been a lifetime leader that provided a good product to last a lifetime turns into a waste.. I'm glad you found a work around!
Almost all "safety" switches and devices are designed for the dumbest among us. A bit of intelligence and diligence is what is required. Nice job on the fix, now it works.
One safety switch you could install is an air pressure switch. So if the fan quits it senses the los of air pressure due to the fan not blowing, the fuel pump quits. You can find these switches in most modern and some older furnaces.
I didn't know that they made those so complicated these days!!! It used to be just a vane pump, igniter coil and a thermal limit switch. Plug it in and it worked. Glad you were able to get around all the failed BS!
nice one , as a foot note the old style jet heaters had almost no safety on them either if they went out it was usually cause they ran out of fuel , and they worked just fine , i must admit your heater is nice and compact and is quite compared to the older style , nice to see a good work around
A Jack of all trades you are Sir. I Love the way your mind works and I Love the wau you tackled the camper redo. Keep up the Great work!!! #layingdimes
Kinda ran into the same kind of problem with a modern evaporative cooler. It was doing what it wanted to do and not what I wanted it to do. Sure enough there was a overly complex circuit board at the center of it all. Ultimately though, in the end, it was power in, power out to the pumps and three speed blower motor. I used an old school manual rotary switch to replace the circuit board and now it does what I want. Good video.
Good fix and cheap, well done. This fix shows the fuel pump, fan and ignitor are all good so the problem is soot. Usually the fire eye gets soot covered and can't "see" the flame. If you ever get a new heater use kerosene instead of diesel. It burns cleaner without soot.
#1 diesel is the way to go in these heaters. Not sure if that's what you meant by Kerosene but K1 is is not necessary and can be reserved for wick based heaters only.
@@knurlgnar24 number 1 is home heating oil. It is even lower grade and will soot even more. It will work but the by product is smoke and soot, kerosene is cleaner burning thereby not dirtying up the inside allowing it to last longer. It's more expensive than diesel so most people don't use it but it's all I run and the heaters last for years without fail.
I had 10 degrees F on my way home from work (Northern Lower Michigan). I know about cold, at least a little. Be careful with that heater. It's always the simple things that we overlook that get us in trouble.
NEAT trick with that paper! I'm going to try that with some of my RC stuff, next time I work on it. Some of them bolts are a pain to try installing, after removal!
I spent 11 yrs in Dallas from ‘83 to ‘94. It seems like more snow falls there in one year now than the whole time I lived there. Crazy. Love the videos hate your summers! Lol. Northern Illinois weather is better for me
I so admire your ingenuity. I feel bound to make the observation, you will need to change your channel name from "I C Weld" to I B Tinkerer". You've messed with a Car space heater and now a garage heater... Not many people would look at a non-functioning heater and junk it, But not Ole Isaac!!!!!! Keep swingin Dad.... You could start a whole new business, "Rebuilding Mr. Heaters"~!!!!!
It's amazing how complicated they've made stuff. Your solution there would be very easy to implement at the factory, with a couple very simple tip-over and temperature switches to make sure it didn't start a fire. But no, has to be excessively complex and failure prone...
A better (and safer) modification would have been to retain the optical sensor and the overheat switch and use a residential oil burner primary control. It could be mounted in the same place as the original electronic controller. You would just need to make a larger hole in the cover for it to stick out of and to have access to the reset button. You can find them online for as low as $50.00, well worth it.
Nice work around. I would have left the thermocouple that was by the fan in place, to cut power to the pump on an over temp. Then again, that could have been the problem all along. You can't argue working versus not working no matter how you look at it.
If you are stuck on using fuel, can you put in a chimney? Once I had a Klondike stove. No pump just use a 5 gallon can upside down about 5 feet up. Copper tube with a ball valve outside and another next to the stove. It just dripped onto an asbestos pad that I lit with wooden matches. Otherwise it was just a little cast iron wood stove. I'm sure you have scrap plate and a welder somewhere. It worked on diesel kerosene and used motor oil thinned about a half cup of gas per gallon. I even used old cooking oil mixed in diesel.
Isaac, it's no more unsafe than the older units, made before all the circuit boards and computer chips. You just have to be aware of the limitations and perils involved. I hope your power doesn't go out as it did last year. Thanks for the video. Jon
I would have left the unit plugged in while doing that upgrade. It would make it more challenging. That is a great education for your son to revert the heater to a fundamental system that is fool proof
I still have my heater and I don't work now I know how to fix it better but the best part was watching your good video learning how to repair it the easy way and also if that was your son in the video that is cool they're teaching your son I'm very important technique and trade and if it's not has to do with welding it's awesome see Father and son together doing project
I kept waiting for your favorite line: "I'm not saying this is the right way to do it but it is how I do it." LOL Good luck from the panhandle. Stay warm.
We have all been there having to modify something electrical. My John Deere tractor has a time delay module for the fuel pull in circuit. Well the module bit the dust. $24 for a time delay relay on/off and some of my time and works like a champ. Deere can keep their $480 black box!!!
Another great video. I have this same heater same issue. I have found I can get the unit to light if I hold a butane torch at the 7 o'clock position on the burner face on the discharge side of the heater( I try to get some flame in the holes). Maybe I get the e1 error because I run diesel instead of kerosene but that torch trick while turning the unit on seems reduce my e1 codes. Really curious to watch these comments to see if people identify the fuel they use and if this mod helps with their e1 codes. I'd do this mod in a second if it would help me light off the diesel in the heater here in michigan. Anti gel additives and 91% rubbing alchol havent seemed to help much.
I have one that lives out in the shed until winter. Every single time I bring it into the barn there’s a family of mice living in it so the wires are chewed and there’s pee in it. I’ve stopped up all the access points, put wire mesh on it. They don’t care, they just eat through the plastic and get back in. Edit: if you daisy chain the switches so the fan switch powers the solenoid switch, and the solenoid switch powers the ignitor you’ll make it so the solenoid and pump can only run if the fan is on.
So many people today would have thrown it out without a second thought and bought a new one. It's a shame we're so sue happy in this country that everything has to be overly complex to prevent those without a lick of common sense from hurting themselves or burning their house down. As you said, as long as you don't leave it burning unattended it'll be perfectly fine.
resourceful repair , thanks for sharing. I think you probably could have left some of the safety's wired in, and I think you could get by with 1 toggle instead of the 2 . nice to see you passing knowledge along to Junior. Just curious if he's super enthusiastic about helping & learning , or does he need coaxing?
Now, if you have a multimeter, I would find out what broke/failed on the board you removed. Could have been thermal sensor (you removed from the inside), or relay (several on there). Plus what was the Error code? E1? The CAD cell photo cell needs cleaning as it could be covered in soot. Bypassing your way will work, but interesting to see you always fixing something so it works! Be Safe, stay warm! (we got fog up here and rain..soon to become ice)
Ahhhh...neat! Your paper trick is a neat idea man. It is just about 4 A.M here and it is 22°. Northern Michigan here. Suppose to be a high of 16° today. These heaters should be just that...fuel, burner and go...all that other stuff just complicates things. I know you folks down there don't deal with the friged cold to often...use to be that way anyways...maybe build yourself a wood stove...for the future. We have had the power go out here quite a bit lately....🙄....wood stove kept us warm and I can cook on it. Just saying is all. Due to corrupt insurance companies....I can't legally put my stove in my house...(as if we actually own anything) but I can in my garage. They are going to safety us all to death.
The simplest safety feature might be to install a current sensing relay on the fan which would control the fuel pump. If the fan does not pull current, the relay stays open. Is there an over-temp sensor?
Look how complex they made on of the more simple heaters ever made. Man they is calling for some nasty weather headed you way. Here in central NM we woke up to -14 this morning! Nephew in Granbury sent me a picture of a snow covered yard. I hear you on the eyes getting older about 10 years ago they made me get byfocals
I enjoy all your videos. If you can give me a video on fixing a heater. How about a video on the Ol Classic Car you have. Derek from Vice Grip Garage would be proud to see it. Lol. A feller or fellet likes some variety.
I attempted this repair this weekend and I am having trouble with the fan toggle switch not turning on. I have the original pair of “FAN1” black wires and the main power connected to this switch on the “ON” switch connection. In the video it does Not appear anything is connected to the “OFF” position terminal. Can someone help?
Don't sweat the safety interlocks man. I've got one of the old school jet engine heaters that's close to 40 years old, and it operates exactly the same way you hacked this one to run. Bought it new and it's never caused us a single problem in all that time.
I think wen mine needs to be rewired i am going to wire the photocell through the fuel pump circuit. that way if i loose ignition it will shut off fuel. Thanks for the video it helps alot
What brand of track torch was that you use. ?? The manual one And also Iv seen some vids where you marked on some steel with chock what are you spraying on the metal to make it stay while cutting ? Thanks David
just finally did mine, but found out the real cause of my E1 trouble codes. with everything bypass mine still wont fire up.. took the burner stage out and found my injector spray pattern is streaky, took it out and clean it.. it fired up.
I used a LP heater. With a low oxygen cutoff. Witch maybe what is shutting down yours. When your working outside in windchills of -30°F a heater is a life saver.
Ah yes, the dreaded heater repair. One of the 500 things about the welding business that AIN’T welding. The paper in the socket trick is a good one. I’ve always used black electrical tape.
Love watching a video of a great father who teaches their son the techniques and the trades and life has it on to them and it's great to see that father and son
Our eyes tend to get a little dimmer with each passing year. I've been doing that trick with the phone for several years. Also comes in real handy when you need to see something like the back side of a transverse mounted engine when there's no room to get your head back there. Amazing little instruments, they are!
Yes! I had to look behind a flat screen TV the other day in a spot where moving the TV was out of the question, except for a few inches. The phone's camera made a great pic of the connectors which I couldn't see, unless I had a mirror.
Good solution. Perhaps a cutout that when the fan stops it shuts down the pump will help ease your mind, not difficult to do. John, Australia.
isn't it amazing how complicated they can make something so simple , push right to repair every where you can
While I agree with right to repair, the complications here is mainly safety systems to protect dumbasses from burning their house down. Much of that is things like tipover sensors and are mandated by fire code Eectronics is the cheapest way to implement them. If you are careful and capable of common sense, you probably don't need them but these are marketed to the general public so....
I have repaired quite a few of these types of heaters over the years. The problem always seems to be the fuel line gets brittle and cracks somewhere. They work by siphoning fuel via vacuum created with a ventury using the fan and the cracks allow air to enter breaking the siphon. Replacing the fuel lines usually does it in my experience.
You can order replacement parts from Mr Heater, so right to repair isn't at issue here, though I agree that RTR needs to be pushed.
And all the complexity is there for the safety features so that you can simply flip a switch and walk away.
Older versions would have had thermocouples and such, so no electronics, but sensitive mechanical components that needed frequent cleaning and adjustment.
This uses an optical flame sensor, which is much more reliable and needs no maintenence.
It's what most of the commercial boilers and furnaces and such use.
I looked for the technical manual and found out that the main board usually locked these things out due to igniter failure or low fuel pressure failure .
But you solved the issue doing it the smart way and just eliminating the stupid control board altogether.
Youd make a good HVAC technician. Cheers on this repair !
You're always being resourceful Isaac. 👍
Here's hoping this cold snap is nothing like a year ago!
Thanks for the update.
Been in this house 20 years now, and used a kerosene heater out in the 2 car garage when working out there. I've had to replace the 1st one as it just plain wore out. 2nd one died after 3 years of use.
Bought a propane one for less money than another kerosene unit. Love it. Adjustable heat setting, and a 20 pound tank last longer than what the 5 gallons of kerosene did. Bonus of no more kerosene exhaust smell.
I once used a propane tower not a patio tower but like a jobsite tower style in my 12 x 16 shed and my guys came in for lunch and they all felt sick as dogs after lunch We never used it again
5 gallons of Kerosene has more heating value than 20lb of propane and combustion efficiency on both will be >99% so the claim of lasting longer cannot be true even if you think it is. Propane has its benefits though.
There’s a storm pushing across the country that reaches southwest Texas to northern Maine. And it’s hitting today. I have a feeling Mr. Heater is going to be putting in some work over the next couple of days. Great work Isaac!!
It'll be doing so without some of the Chinese parts.
Setting here at a negative 22 below zero watching you talk about cold weather at 20 above zero. Course I’m in north west Wisconsin. Stay warm and safe.
I thought I was hearing a Texas accent. I’m in a northern Dallas suburb. Folks like you make me a proud Texan
Long time follower and fan, thanks for helping me fix my heater. Getting a little chilly in this neck of the woods. Stay toasty!
I've had to replace lots of control board relays. Not too difficult if you're somewhat handy with a test meter and a soldering iron. But you probably found the quickest solution to solve the issue.
The piece of paper trick with the screw is gold ! Thank you Isaac I did not know that !
Thank you very much for the shout out ... glad you got it to work ... stay warm
I live just North of Ft. Worth and it’s slick. But if you get that running and want to sell it,( delivered) Thursday we may want to t. No seriously really enjoy your job and video, thanks for sharing. Please stay safe and healthy y’all
Nice job 😁
Install a differential pressure switch, to cut off fuel when the fan isn't turning. Available at every HVAC store, it's not expensive.
The white little pill was the temperature sensor. I don't think you really need it.
Thanks for the tip!
Brilliant idea with the piece of paper in the end of the driver! Man I've struggled for so many years and kind of annoyed I hadn't thought of something so simple like that hahaha.
Welder by trade and really appreciate your hard honest work. Thanks for sharing it as always! Enjoy the non welding videos too.
Never stop posting vids!! 👍😎 👍
Isaac, years ago I had a 100,000 btu heater that the high voltage transformer had quit working on, so I replaced it with a neon sign transformer, and it again operated as it should. You bypassing the control board just makes it operate like the older heaters did.
Love to see things being fixed instead of replaced.
Looks good!
I DO see a small problem tho, @5:13 you remove a small thermostat with two red wires going to it, this now leaves a big hole in the fire box which is blowing red hot air onto the copper fuel line, I would re-attach the Thermostat and bolt it down to block the hole to not pre-heat the fuel line, even tho it wont be hooked up anymore- seems like a recipe for disaster leaving hot flaming air to blow on the metal fuel lines! Hahaha
the thermostat is just behind the fan, with a little luck it is just blowing cold air in the electrics compartment. in that case it will reduce the efficiency of the fan.
I agree with you, close that hole!
A small advice here: you can modify it so the fan switch kill the fuel pump too, this way the pump doesn't start unless the fan is already on.
Good job!
good point
I was thinking this too, use a normally open relay to only close the circuit for the pump when the fan is switched on
It's a shame with so many great ideas that could be lifelong appliances only to be sabotaged by cost cutting shortcuts. An inexpensive component on the pc board? cheap sensor? They turn into a disappointing expensive broken product that was a waste of money to just be thrown away. A few cents more, and a brand name could have been a lifetime leader that provided a good product to last a lifetime turns into a waste.. I'm glad you found a work around!
Almost all "safety" switches and devices are designed for the dumbest among us. A bit of intelligence and diligence is what is required. Nice job on the fix, now it works.
Best way for a son to learn by watching his Father just a great video to watch
*I C Weld* Bravo well done, thank-you sir for taking the time to show us. God Bless.
One safety switch you could install is an air pressure switch. So if the fan quits it senses the los of air pressure due to the fan not blowing, the fuel pump quits. You can find these switches in most modern and some older furnaces.
Great to see you and your son working together.
I didn't know that they made those so complicated these days!!! It used to be just a vane pump, igniter coil and a thermal limit switch. Plug it in and it worked.
Glad you were able to get around all the failed BS!
Look at you go, more than just a genius with the torch! Great work.
nice one , as a foot note the old style jet heaters had almost no safety on them either if they went out it was usually cause they ran out of fuel , and they worked just fine , i must admit your heater is nice and compact and is quite compared to the older style , nice to see a good work around
Good job on the repair. Glad yo see Jr back helping you.
in san antonio we got ice on the ground bro,so good thing that worked for you ,probally need it with this trusty power grid we have here
A Jack of all trades you are Sir. I Love the way your mind works and I Love the wau you tackled the camper redo. Keep up the Great work!!! #layingdimes
Kinda ran into the same kind of problem with a modern evaporative cooler. It was doing what it wanted to do and not what I wanted it to do. Sure enough there was a overly complex circuit board at the center of it all. Ultimately though, in the end, it was power in, power out to the pumps and three speed blower motor. I used an old school manual rotary switch to replace the circuit board and now it does what I want. Good video.
smart move with the rotary switch.
Good fix and cheap, well done. This fix shows the fuel pump, fan and ignitor are all good so the problem is soot. Usually the fire eye gets soot covered and can't "see" the flame. If you ever get a new heater use kerosene instead of diesel. It burns cleaner without soot.
#1 diesel is the way to go in these heaters. Not sure if that's what you meant by Kerosene but K1 is is not necessary and can be reserved for wick based heaters only.
@@knurlgnar24 number 1 is home heating oil. It is even lower grade and will soot even more. It will work but the by product is smoke and soot, kerosene is cleaner burning thereby not dirtying up the inside allowing it to last longer. It's more expensive than diesel so most people don't use it but it's all I run and the heaters last for years without fail.
I had 10 degrees F on my way home from work (Northern Lower Michigan). I know about cold, at least a little. Be careful with that heater. It's always the simple things that we overlook that get us in trouble.
NEAT trick with that paper!
I'm going to try that with some of my RC stuff, next time I work on it.
Some of them bolts are a pain to try installing, after removal!
I enjoy seeing your son along side of you learning. You don't see that much anymore.
I spent 11 yrs in Dallas from ‘83 to ‘94. It seems like more snow falls there in one year now than the whole time I lived there. Crazy. Love the videos hate your summers! Lol. Northern Illinois weather is better for me
I so admire your ingenuity. I feel bound to make the observation, you will need to change your channel name from "I C Weld" to I B Tinkerer". You've messed with a Car space heater and now a garage heater... Not many people would look at a non-functioning heater and junk it, But not Ole Isaac!!!!!!
Keep swingin Dad.... You could start a whole new business, "Rebuilding Mr. Heaters"~!!!!!
i love watching these types of fixes!
It's amazing how complicated they've made stuff. Your solution there would be very easy to implement at the factory, with a couple very simple tip-over and temperature switches to make sure it didn't start a fire. But no, has to be excessively complex and failure prone...
Thanks Issac for sharing.
A better (and safer) modification would have been to retain the optical sensor and the overheat switch and use a residential oil burner primary control. It could be mounted in the same place as the original electronic controller. You would just need to make a larger hole in the cover for it to stick out of and to have access to the reset button. You can find them online for as low as $50.00, well worth it.
excellent. thanks man.
Nice work around. I would have left the thermocouple that was by the fan in place, to cut power to the pump on an over temp. Then again, that could have been the problem all along. You can't argue working versus not working no matter how you look at it.
I might figure out how to reinstall some sort of sensor to shut it off in case of troubles.
thank you tube for these fixit videos they have helped many people fix things they didn't understand now!! they do!!
If you are stuck on using fuel, can you put in a chimney? Once I had a Klondike stove. No pump just use a 5 gallon can upside down about 5 feet up. Copper tube with a ball valve outside and another next to the stove. It just dripped onto an asbestos pad that I lit with wooden matches. Otherwise it was just a little cast iron wood stove. I'm sure you have scrap plate and a welder somewhere. It worked on diesel kerosene and used motor oil thinned about a half cup of gas per gallon. I even used old cooking oil mixed in diesel.
Thank god for you tube. you can find anything and everthing on it ... Stay warm from SE Texas, See Ya
Isaac, it's no more unsafe than the older units, made before all the circuit boards and computer chips. You just have to be aware of the limitations and perils involved. I hope your power doesn't go out as it did last year. Thanks for the video. Jon
I would have left the unit plugged in while doing that upgrade. It would make it more challenging. That is a great education for your son to revert the heater to a fundamental system that is fool proof
Thank you Isaac. You are the welding version of MacGyver.
I still have my heater and I don't work now I know how to fix it better but the best part was watching your good video learning how to repair it the easy way and also if that was your son in the video that is cool they're teaching your son I'm very important technique and trade and if it's not has to do with welding it's awesome see Father and son together doing project
Nice hack good to know
Thank you for providing us with this vid
Cheers from Nova Scotia
I kept waiting for your favorite line: "I'm not saying this is the right way to do it but it is how I do it." LOL Good luck from the panhandle. Stay warm.
We have all been there having to modify something electrical. My John Deere tractor has a time delay module for the fuel pull in circuit. Well the module bit the dust. $24 for a time delay relay on/off and some of my time and works like a champ. Deere can keep their $480 black box!!!
Awesome! Great Video! Best part is when you had your son working and your drinking coffee!! Love it, train em right!!
Another great video. I have this same heater same issue. I have found I can get the unit to light if I hold a butane torch at the 7 o'clock position on the burner face on the discharge side of the heater( I try to get some flame in the holes). Maybe I get the e1 error because I run diesel instead of kerosene but that torch trick while turning the unit on seems reduce my e1 codes. Really curious to watch these comments to see if people identify the fuel they use and if this mod helps with their e1 codes. I'd do this mod in a second if it would help me light off the diesel in the heater here in michigan. Anti gel additives and 91% rubbing alchol havent seemed to help much.
I have one that lives out in the shed until winter. Every single time I bring it into the barn there’s a family of mice living in it so the wires are chewed and there’s pee in it. I’ve stopped up all the access points, put wire mesh on it. They don’t care, they just eat through the plastic and get back in.
Edit: if you daisy chain the switches so the fan switch powers the solenoid switch, and the solenoid switch powers the ignitor you’ll make it so the solenoid and pump can only run if the fan is on.
That would be simple however those require the fan to run for 3 minutes after shutdown to cool the burner.
Like seeing that young man learning from the old Dad.
Wonder if that black wire just needed to be plugged in to make it run with out all upgrades. Lol good job
Adapt, Improvise, Overcome!!! 👏🏻👍🏻😄
I recommend a thermo couple for safety, dual for under temp and over temp
As long as one guy has got tools in his hand other guys will watch! Best wishes.
So many people today would have thrown it out without a second thought and bought a new one. It's a shame we're so sue happy in this country that everything has to be overly complex to prevent those without a lick of common sense from hurting themselves or burning their house down. As you said, as long as you don't leave it burning unattended it'll be perfectly fine.
resourceful repair , thanks for sharing. I think you probably could have left some of the safety's wired in, and I think you could get by with 1 toggle instead of the 2 . nice to see you passing knowledge along to Junior. Just curious if he's super enthusiastic about helping & learning , or does he need coaxing?
Good call!. I might make some changes once i figure out how to add a safety feature in there.
Now, if you have a multimeter, I would find out what broke/failed on the board you removed. Could have been thermal sensor (you removed from the inside), or relay (several on there). Plus what was the Error code? E1? The CAD cell photo cell needs cleaning as it could be covered in soot. Bypassing your way will work, but interesting to see you always fixing something so it works! Be Safe, stay warm! (we got fog up here and rain..soon to become ice)
Magnetizing your screwdrivers also works pretty well
Maestro. Brilliant.
Ahhhh...neat! Your paper trick is a neat idea man. It is just about 4 A.M here and it is 22°. Northern Michigan here. Suppose to be a high of 16° today. These heaters should be just that...fuel, burner and go...all that other stuff just complicates things. I know you folks down there don't deal with the friged cold to often...use to be that way anyways...maybe build yourself a wood stove...for the future. We have had the power go out here quite a bit lately....🙄....wood stove kept us warm and I can cook on it. Just saying is all. Due to corrupt insurance companies....I can't legally put my stove in my house...(as if we actually own anything) but I can in my garage. They are going to safety us all to death.
Good video, good work. Keep up the videos as they are enjoyed.
You can also use the finger off of a nitrile glove over a socket or driver
Thanks man . The human brain will never be bypassed. The ultimate computer made by GOD.
Beats the stuffing out of just throwing it away. Good job.
Hey that's my trick using my phone to see 😆. I see you have your no.1 helper helping you. Good job thanks for sharing.
keep warm keep safe happy welding
The simplest safety feature might be to install a current sensing relay on the fan which would control the fuel pump. If the fan does not pull current, the relay stays open. Is there an over-temp sensor?
Look how complex they made on of the more simple heaters ever made.
Man they is calling for some nasty weather headed you way. Here in central NM we woke up to -14 this morning! Nephew in Granbury sent me a picture of a snow covered yard.
I hear you on the eyes getting older about 10 years ago they made me get byfocals
I enjoy all your videos. If you can give me a video on fixing a heater. How about a video on the Ol Classic Car you have. Derek from Vice Grip Garage would be proud to see it. Lol. A feller or fellet likes some variety.
where can i get one like that
Isaac, I would have laughed my butt off if your son had put on his welding helmet for the initial startup!!!🤣
Making stuff work as usual, great video!
Hell Yea... almost 95K subs... Love your videos... great content...
So close!
I attempted this repair this weekend and I am having trouble with the fan toggle switch not turning on. I have the original pair of “FAN1” black wires and the main power connected to this switch on the “ON” switch connection. In the video it does
Not appear anything is connected to the “OFF” position terminal. Can someone help?
I forget How I did it, I used three individual switches, one for the fan, one for the pump and a temporary switch for the spark.
11👍's up IC WELD thanks for sharing
Don't sweat the safety interlocks man. I've got one of the old school jet engine heaters that's close to 40 years old, and it operates exactly the same way you hacked this one to run. Bought it new and it's never caused us a single problem in all that time.
Awesome, I've got two of those not working, I'm off to go blow up my shop now.
She fired right up........... very good.
I think wen mine needs to be rewired i am going to wire the photocell through the fuel pump circuit. that way if i loose ignition it will shut off fuel. Thanks for the video it helps alot
What brand of track torch was that you use. ?? The manual one
And also Iv seen some vids where you marked on some steel with chock what are you spraying on the metal to make it stay while cutting ? Thanks David
ez cut and i used a silver pencil with wd40 spray
@@ICWeld thanks ic I’ll look them up and thanks for the vids. I repair equipment also but always enjoy seeing other ways to doing it.
Need link that you watched and basic schematic added to video.
My notice bell keeps turning off. Weird.
Unable to buy the circuit board?
It's colder in your area then Vancouver Island on the west coast of Canada, I always find that very strange.
I saw that same video yesterday. Hope you get er running
Good job ya gotter do these things from time to time to just get things going.
Nicely done.
just finally did mine, but found out the real cause of my E1 trouble codes. with everything bypass mine still wont fire up.. took the burner stage out and found my injector spray pattern is streaky, took it out and clean it.. it fired up.
I think it’s time for a Vacation to California well till you guys get warmer weather 😂
Good video Amigo 👍
You got that right!
I used a LP heater. With a low oxygen cutoff. Witch maybe what is shutting down yours. When your working outside in windchills of -30°F a heater is a life saver.
Ah yes, the dreaded heater repair. One of the 500 things about the welding business that AIN’T welding. The paper in the socket trick is a good one. I’ve always used black electrical tape.
Marty Robbins playing in the background, that's pretty much what I do