been searching for "wirefuse" a few weeks and couldn't find something good. searched again after watching your video and now i found some nice wirefuse, thanks a lot ;)
Killer build video. I like this style pack. I have been considering whether or not to design some 3dprinted ends that would give you a handle and also help hold the packs together.
Very Clean Work, just subscribed. I just came across all this power wall stuff, I'm a Petrol Head, this is like Hot Rodding! So one 700w Module gives you .938 Horse Power, if you would have added 32 more batteries you would have added another 300w and would have almost 1kw/1.34hp per Module. Now you just need to mount 100 Modules on your wall and you will have the same Horse power like a Tesla S 100D :D
I just got a 200 watt iron similar to yours. Except it has a flat chisel tip. And it's bent at about 60 deg angle. Making it a bit awkward to use. The tip flattens out to about 1 inch wide and about 1/16" then to a sharp point. It is really hot. And holds heat forever. I can unplug it. Put the tip in water for a few minutes. Then sit it down. And it will still melt solder for quite a while. I tried it out on a dead cell. Wet it with solder. Then soldered 20gauge copper wire to both ends. And it holds very well. Buy the cell wasn't even warm. So I dont guess it will hurt the cells. I am soldering to the nickel strip. I left a tiny piece on the neg end. To solder to. The solder did cover the nickel and cell. I bent and pulled on the wire. It didn't come loose or even start to. I'm wondering where to get a tip for these irons? Have any idea? It works its just very awkward maybe even difficult to use. The tip if laied flat to cover more area. It covers the whole cell. It looks to be copper. It may be plated? I don't think I should to cut it grind it. I'm looking for a different tip! Great video...
This looks amazing, and not to difficult to do :) I also want to make 3 batterypacks in series of 80 parrallell new Panasonic 16850 batteries. ( approx 240A - 12V ) But i want to use it as a leisure battery for my Iveco Campervan. ( charging by solar and by alternator when motor running ) . i will experience some difficulties to overcome because my alternator and starterbattery give 14,7 V power which is to much for the batterybank i guess, but at least i already KNOW NOW how i can make my batterypacks :) that is one hurdle already overcome :) thanks !
I really like that fuse wire idea, and the bus bars being in between cells. I can see that it would be very easy to swap out a bad cell. Here are a few questions I had while watching this: How do you charge these packs up? Wouldn't there be issues with the cells not balancing properly? Where do you find so many of these cells? It seems new 18650s are around $4.50 each, are they radically cheaper second hand?
Robert Cook they are included in a 14s syste. so will be charged with solar system capable of 60vdc. all cells tested with Opus bt3100. all cells are second hand laptop batteries. only from genuine like hp dell samsung and so forth. buying new is not an option for me. way to expensive.
I found an improvement on your stripping method. If you put the cable in the vice and take a clawhammer, you can easily pull it off with the clawside. No need to cut anything.
Yes hi how are you doing?...since I disnt see any videos?...I was wondering if u could do, can do a quick, simple 101 video on how you set up your bus bars to the packs?...& then how you connect the packs Together?... I understand everything except, until you get to the part of setting up the bms... & connecting the packs together... thanks
This video is a 3 years all video. Still it is a wonderful and up-to-date tutorial. Many thanks! I plan to follow your example and use the same design, however, one thing is still bothering me, maybe you can help me with an advice here. You make series connections on the one side of the 80p cell, I believe to make it easier to bolt everything on the shelf. But, does it mean that current will mainly flow through the front cells of the 80p pack? I mean that cell on the front of of the pack would be stressed more than ones on the back? Or this does not really matter and could be neglected? I also plan to put cells on the shelves and making connection in between them in the depth of the shelf would be not comfortable. You have a lot of experience and at least 3 years has past already since this particular cell was built. What would you advice: should I make connection points on the different sides of the 80p cell so that current flow equally through all 80 18650s or does it work perfectly fine when both connection points are on the front side of the cell?
Just a little correction to the way you connect your busbar - make sure you pull "-" and "+" from opposite ends of the string. The way you have it connected, the 4 cells closest to the end of the busbar will be discharged the most, then the ones after them etc, while the last cells will barely be catching up. That will destroy the first cells a lot quicker. HBpowerwall had the same issue at the start. Actually, in your case all you need to do, is cut a little piece of the busbar out, on each terminal, on opposing sides. Hope you know what I mean. Other than that, excellent work! Example: www.leadingedgepower.com/images/page/battery_bank_parallel.jpg
It depends. If you stress the cells with high current this is more of an issue and I agree. Hb started with only 1 string at first and that's 80 cells and quite some load per cell. That will stress it and can cause issues in the start. The bank you see in above video is included in a bank with 1100 cells per string! ;) Yes total number of cells is a lot and videos is coming. Also most of the strings is in a different design totally where above issue cannot happen. Videos coming. My old bank was connected in cross to reduce the issue with the start getting stressed. One thing also to remember is that it depends on the resistance and dimension of the bus bar. If you have higher resistance this can also cause higher issues- Never the less my revised construction of above do have this in mind with cross connection instead. Thanks for your advice! I should have mentioned in the video!
April27,20/0700hrs. Thank you for the informative video. I’m watching this video for the 4th time; at different times. Every time I watch, I wonder, why there’s no discussion and or video, regarding Charging the assembled unit. Charging is as important as assembly, if I’m not mistaken. How do you charge? What type of charger do you use? What current? Do you use PV system? If using PV System do you prefer PWM or MPPT controller? You have 4.2V@1kW power assembled, what’d you do with it? What’s the final configuration of the set up? Do you series / parallel them for 12V or 24V operation? Where do you store the final assembly? How do you place the batteries? I feel the above needs to be addressed. Pardon me for requesting explanation, as above. But every time I watch this video, I have the compelling urge to request. If you happened to view my segment, kindly respond. Thanks and stay safe with the family. 73s
And Quick answer. 140kwh battery att 48v. Ie 14s. Mppt all days. I got 4 mppt channels. 16kwp solar. Batrium bms..powering My 4 buildings. Ie house and workshop and t 2 other.
Thanks for posting. I'm a bit confused/concerned about why some battery pack builders solder or spot weld. Too much heat on the battery will damage the cells. Is it best to use a large soldering iron? Is there secret to short quick soldering to make the joint without damaging the cell? What size fuse wire do you use for a given battery pack?
That's why he is using a 200w soldering iron. If you use lower watts iron it will take much time and damage the battery. Pre fluxing with good quality flux pen will help a lot.
Hi, very nice video, thanks for sharing, I am a kind of beginner and a bit unsure about the voltage of each of your pack. So, if its 12 volts x 3 packs in series, it would be 36 volts ? Or are you connecting 12volt packs parallel... - Is it then better to have a high voltage rather than to stay strict with 12 volts ?
I bought the exact wire you showed for use in my similar pack, but what is the reason for a thicker wire on the negative side, and what thickness would this be ?
good video think when i make mine im using a copper plate at the bottom, no need to do all that on the negative when the positive is fused. Lot of work for nothing, i like that iron you are using.
Thanks. Great informative and easy to understand. 👍 May I ask... I am new to this... what charging system is used in conjunction with your solar system to charge this and however many other similar packs connected together that will manage and charge the system. Many thanks. Jason Brisbane, Australia
Hello! please help me with a tip i need a bms but i don't know how many volts and how many amps it should have, for a li ion battery 14s 51.8v 40ah i have a brushless motor sss56104 790kv 6000w and a pro marine ESC 300A ..Thank you!
What is the thickness of the module with the 18650 cells and the plastic holders? I am planning a set up for my 2014 Rav 4 EV and I want to make sure I can fit the modules. Thanks!!!
EbikeSchool.com because i dont want w fuses to each battery. only 1 from the bus bar :) yes u could potentially leave them but that would require double the current to disconect a battery
Is there any strategy or recommendation for individual cell capacity for each 80P pack? What is the maximum difference between cell capacity in each 80P pack? Can you have cells that are around 1500 milliamps ranging to 3000 milliamps or should all of the cells be within a certain range? Thanks in advance for your time to answer my question.
Hi, I've been trying to build a pack for my ebike but having alot of issues. I even must have short circuited the bms board so i think the charging is not working. ive put the copper wire on top of the cells with tape but the voltages are going up and down. are you able to help me if i sent you pictures. also i was not able to solder the the wires on top of the cells because i dont know how to solder properly and solder was not sticking to the top of the cells
where do you buy those batteries? I would like to rebuild a few 18 volt RIOBI batteries. Good show , good ideas, like your presentation, you may give some short inside details of access to the material you use. Keep it up, definitely interesting.
That Old Bob if you want proper cells check out nkon.nl cheap china then check my ebat review 2nd hand then ask around. I also have some links to good ebay deals that will add here tomorrow
Check out this link goo.gl/yLuZyd (Ebay) There you have Ebike batteries that most likely would work great. really good price and its hard to find better deal! So get one or 5 meanwhile they are there.
great vid, thanks. may I ask a question? How do I know how much amps a battery pack can handle. if I have a motor that draws 40 amps and I am using a 18685 battery pack that has 40 cells, does that mean that each cell is using a 1 amp draw?
It depends. But yes if you have 40 cells in parallel we can make it easy and say it got 1a per cell. But if you got a 4s battery bank with total of 40 cells you only got 10 cells per group.. Then they have to deal with 4a per cell... 2nd hand laptop batteries does not like that high current in general.
When you say wire on negative side is "thicker" can you provide some "range" of what size wire to get? I'm sorting batteries now, and have the rest of the pieces, just not clear how big of a wire on the bottom.
Hello, I'm thinking of creating this system, for my home in Spain. It's only a small place. And my electric supply form the board is capped at 6kw . How many of these bundles will I need to power my house without the use of the grid.
Thanks for your video. I have a small question why we need to cut the fuse wire at negative at 11:45. Can we let the fuse run through row like 4 negative will be connected. Thank you
Yes you can do that for 13s as well. I generally get the plates from Ebay. They exist in all kind of form factors from single cell holders that you can put together to 4x5 and even bigger. 4x5 : goo.gl/me4Xpe and single holders: goo.gl/kg4PKN
Good question. Its something my father had earlier. Im guessing 2-300watt. And its at least 30 years old :) It have a solid copper tip so it erodes quite fast but its easy to just change to a new one...
Good job, I like the busbars idea, but could you please share how did you calculate those almost 1 KWh? As I know in your case it should be like 80 celis times 2.2A (average cell capacity) times 3.7 nominal voltage = 651.2 Wh.
You are correct about the 1kWh. That was wrong by me :) To be honest the cells is avg more of 2.4 but no matter what i just thought "its close to 10kw so that is 1kw per pack..." Never thought about that it was 14 so my math sucked when recording..... So it should be around 700Wh per pack and almost 10kWh in total per string.
Onе more thing - I don`t know how will you organize the packs, but IMHO just hot glue is no enough. Take a look at the knack of flyjabiru11 - it`s easy and inexpensive. Wish you all the best.
Petko Vasilev hot glue in my case is just for holding them until soldered. if i were to move them around you would need to tie it down alot more. in my case the glue plus soldered wires should be ok. The time will tell and if needed i do have a backup plan :) Thanks for raising the concern
Petko Vasilev you are right, almost half of what he said to be.. but the question here would be how to and what to use to charge the battery bank? I made one like that one but my solar charger won't even read the voltage.
I have 8 80 packs I have them in two p strings of four in series. My problem is the first pack of the neg end of both strings is taking all the draw and no draw going past the first pack. It's weird. Any clues to this problem. Thanks
How did u calculate your watts...volts x amps? Is this battery pack 24 volts? Or 12 volts Another question are all your batteries facing one side all positive and the other facing side all negative... because if yes than this is simple...I'm making a power wall than
@@DIYTechRepairs so volts + amps pls if you can show me how Am I supposed to calculate nominal voltage or highest voltage for each cell than plus amps that means what each of your green cover battries was how many amps pls I would appreciate if u can show me though I've started to build my power wall thank you once more
@@DIYTechRepairs ok you said volts + amps what does that mean? if my cell is 3.7 volts and 3000mah? So.. Eee sorry I'm confused... What I'm trying to say is got 110 laptop batteries And I have a charger Some batteries are discharged some saying 3.5 volts 3.6 volts 3.8 volts 4.0 volts etc And my charger just shows green when its fully charged so but I can see where it says full charged yes but how many mahs is that? Unless I check the site? DIY power walls.com? Is there chargers that show that battery is full at 4.2 volts and holds this much mah makes it much easier for all of us
I'm just curious on the fuse side. Aren't these batteries rated from 10amps and up(depending on the 18650 amp type) you used 5amp fuse wire. Are these batteries maxed at 5amps? I'm looking forward to your reply. Cheers, Colin.
I max them at 0.5A roughly. But in 80p pack they can produce 800A easy. So if 1 cell goes bad 5a or even 10A fuse is not a problem as such. Beware of that using to small wire will cause voltage drop
@@DIYTechRepairs Thank you for your reply. A couple more questions please. If I use 20amp 18650's in my set up. Should I use 20amp fuse wire to join from the bus-bar? At the one end (does it matter if it's the + or - end?) and what gauge wire should be used on the other end? Thank you. Col.
I recommend checking out battery university (great online resource). The lower your charge/discharge rate, the more charge/discharge cycles your li-ion batteries will yield. According to battery university, < 2 amps charge/discharge rate is desirable.
Does any copper wire 0,2mm thin can be used as a 5A fuse? For example, a wire used in winding of motors? I see some people using resistors legs as a fuse. Does this legs burn at 5A or more?
Winding motor wire are coated and rather hard to work with. You need to crosscheck them your self if you wanna use them. I cannot tell if they would work for 5A load.
I'm just wondering why lots of people build their battery banks in a Parallel-Series configuration; i.e. 80 x 2Ah in parallel for 160Ah pack, then 7 packs connected in series to get a 28V bank rather than a Series-Parallel configuration; i.e. 7 x 2Ah in Series for a 28V pack then 80 packs in parallel for 160Ah. In my mind, this makes the bank more modular. You should only need to fuse each series pack. Have the ability to replace faulty packs or add packs while the battery bank is online. Thoughts?
You are correct but then you get 80 strings where you need to crosscheck all cells so they are in balance. I always go n+1 on my setups. That is a spare of everything. In my case i have 3 of 14s80p. So i can easily take one of those larger ones out for maintenance. Going smaller like you said would leave me with 240strings! That is alot of strings to monitor balancing on. The fuses on the cell is also to protect from that specific cell. If you go your method i would still need all those fuses to protect against the issue im doing now. External fuse per string is also used of course. Hope that explains if not just let me know and il do my best
Thank you for your time. Wouldn't balance monitoring across such a massively parallel pack only yield the health of the majority of the cells in the pack? If a pack were to develop 5 or 10 lame (not sure of the proper terminology) cells out of 80, would it be obvious at the onset? As for fusing, wouldn't fusing every cell in a 14s1p pack be redundant?
Johann Amin yes u get harder to locate one cell. but imagine having 3000 or more cells like i have. would o rather do 100s of strings and then have 100s of bms system that cost alot or have 3 strings with 3 bms systems and save ton of money :) in worst case i need to check through 80 cells. rhat takes me 24 hours to do. 1hour job to pick out and then add them back to my test rig :) thats why i do it. yes if u go 14s1p fuse for each cell would be overkill.... but on the other hand there is noone out there doing that setup for a system with 3000 cells or more. not even big companoes does that. if u look at my valence battery i opened they have 4s100p. :)
Yes, I agree with you on the need to do health monitoring on the battery bank & the associated costs with said monitoring as part of the system as a whole. I do apologize if I seem a little pedantic as I've only just stated looking into solar. Then there will be inverters, stacking inverters, grid-tie inverters, online/offline inverters, switching inverters, etc to look into. So much information it boggles the mind. Thank you for sharing your time & have a good day.
No, the 80p packs are bundled into my powerwall and then charged by my solar system. If I want to charge a bigger pack itself I use my iCharger as mentioned in the other video I linked.
It depends on how much you use per night. Lets say you use 20kWh during 1 night you would need atleast 2.5 of above strings to cope with it. More preferable would be lets say 4-5 or more so you can cope with some bad weather too. I use 16kWh per day and got almost 100kWh of storage currently
So what is your night useage? Its hard to calculate that without knowing the actual usage. Currently I only know the total and depending on area your nigh can be 5kWh or it can be 20kWH
DIY Tech & Repairs I hope to end up with about 10,000+ cells. in a 7s24v pack. or 29v max. I was going to use the. BMS/balance board for charging only. since the inverter shuts off its self. at low voltage. and use a low voltage disconnect for DC loads. I was thinking since the pack is going to be so large. maybe use a MOSFET and a 6v incandescent bulb. to pull down the high cells balancing them. just mod the balance board. and get about a amp or so. most I heard have like 60ma or 120ma balance current. I haven't seen any cheaper boards with more. with my limited know how in electronics . I may end up burning up a few. so a few extra wouldn't be a bad idea. I'm thinking start with 20cells in a 4x5 pack paralleled . times 7 series. then keep adding to that. and if there isn't enough cells to double . maybe build a small series parallel pack. so the pack can be used. until I get more cells. but hopefully I will not have to deal with that. I was thinking about keeping a extra BMS balance board for backup. or would large 7s by ? parallel packs. just be more complicated than it needs to be. thanks. have any ideas for good cheap BMS/balance boards?
None of the cheap are "good" and I would definitely use the BMS both for load and charging. The Inverter will only look at total voltage and not individual voltages on your packs. Its better to split the packs into several strings with several BMS systems. Doing that will get you better view of how it all works and you can swap out a pack if needed. When you start looking at those smaller BMS you will though soon end up at a larger cost and then the Batrium or other werent that expensive. Especially not with 10 000 cells.... Here you got example BMS goo.gl/z5NAUw but it only does 20A and it only balances when you reach top charge ie 4.2V. One on each 20p pack or if you plan on lower current per cell you can go higher packs like 40p or equal. Thats what I would do it but for 10 000 cells in total I would go a proper BMS like Batrium ;)
I presume you are building a 48v system. My question is how do I use this 80 cell bank to build a 24v system. How many of this 80 cell bank will i need ?
Thank you! I wonder how this charger works? I have IMAX B6 from mime rc model. And it can charge only 6pcs in series. And to charge e.g. battary 48v (14*3.7) It needs 3 times to charge it separately (6, 6, 2). How do you balance cells during the charge for a big batteries? Thanks!
I need help I am from Puerto Rico I have an inverter of 1500 watts and three solar panels of 100 watts in parallel charge to 13.5v 20 amp. How many batteries do I need for the system so that it works for me 24 hours I do not know if you can not do much of the batteries 18650 thank you so I can turn on my refrigerator I have no service for hurricane Maria thank you.
Hi. the problem is that the charger you have is Lead acid and if you use 3s you will overcharge the cells. Can you set voltage on the controller? If not you need to go to 4s but then you wont be able to fully charge it either. How many cells you need in total i cant tell because that depends on your total load during 24 hours. Glad to help so just hit reply and i will reply again.
my consumption is 560 watts per hour for 4 hours and then 110watts the refrigerator 16 hours as many batteries at least I need for the refrigerator that consumes 110 watts thanks to using the 18650 for your attention is that the other batteries are very expensive.
What is a "controll charge"? Are you talking about what charger/tester that im using for testing my cells? If so im using The opus: goo.gl/KDf1tw DONT buy the ones for under 12 USD.. They are fake and does not exist. Always go with the 30+USD units. I also use iCharger 308 but only for ref testing. More info here: ruclips.net/video/w5GFp8QBxP8/видео.html
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Great video, this will be the style I'll be using going into my 40th kWh pack I have on the bench. My way works this way is far better!
been searching for "wirefuse" a few weeks and couldn't find something good. searched again after watching your video and now i found some nice wirefuse, thanks a lot ;)
Really cool video, shows step by step, you managed to explain LOTS of details without spending tooooo much time... well done mate!!! =]
Thanks. Its easy to get it looong and booring. I generally want it to be short but this one became a bit longer :)
Killer build video. I like this style pack. I have been considering whether or not to design some 3dprinted ends that would give you a handle and also help hold the packs together.
Very Clean Work, just subscribed. I just came across all this power wall stuff, I'm a Petrol Head, this is like Hot Rodding!
So one 700w Module gives you .938 Horse Power, if you would have added 32 more batteries you would have added another 300w and would have almost 1kw/1.34hp per Module. Now you just need to mount 100 Modules on your wall and you will have the same Horse power like a Tesla S 100D :D
Nice battery pack will do my pack like urs . Ur video is easy explained and easy to build 👍
I just got a 200 watt iron similar to yours. Except it has a flat chisel tip. And it's bent at about 60 deg angle. Making it a bit awkward to use. The tip flattens out to about 1 inch wide and about 1/16" then to a sharp point. It is really hot. And holds heat forever. I can unplug it. Put the tip in water for a few minutes. Then sit it down. And it will still melt solder for quite a while. I tried it out on a dead cell. Wet it with solder. Then soldered 20gauge copper wire to both ends. And it holds very well. Buy the cell wasn't even warm. So I dont guess it will hurt the cells. I am soldering to the nickel strip. I left a tiny piece on the neg end. To solder to. The solder did cover the nickel and cell. I bent and pulled on the wire. It didn't come loose or even start to. I'm wondering where to get a tip for these irons? Have any idea? It works its just very awkward maybe even difficult to use. The tip if laied flat to cover more area. It covers the whole cell. It looks to be copper. It may be plated? I don't think I should to cut it grind it. I'm looking for a different tip! Great video...
Great video. I'm glad that I saw you on HB Powerwall's live chat this morning. I subscribed to your channel a few minutes ago.
Nice job and hope they come along fast and nice. Also hope your child gets better soon sounded like a cold cough.
old time engineer thanks! yeah we all have/had this damn cold for some time now but we are getting better.
old time engineer thanks! yeah we all have/had this damn cold for some time now but we are getting better.
Thank you a very well laid out and informative video
Awesome, I will make a couple of these and make two backups too.. Thanks for sharing
This looks amazing, and not to difficult to do :) I also want to make 3 batterypacks in series of 80 parrallell new Panasonic 16850 batteries. ( approx 240A - 12V ) But i want to use it as a leisure battery for my Iveco Campervan. ( charging by solar and by alternator when motor running ) . i will experience some difficulties to overcome because my alternator and starterbattery give 14,7 V power which is to much for the batterybank i guess, but at least i already KNOW NOW how i can make my batterypacks :) that is one hurdle already overcome :) thanks !
Quest for Freedom that's easy you just get a converter that converts it to the voltage you need :)
Great vid watching during the 2020 pandemic. very nice quick and simple thanks man! hope you are doing good
Great demonstration and explanations. I am definitely using this method for my packs. Hadn't thought of using hot glue to hold the busbar in place.
I really like that fuse wire idea, and the bus bars being in between cells. I can see that it would be very easy to swap out a bad cell. Here are a few questions I had while watching this:
How do you charge these packs up? Wouldn't there be issues with the cells not balancing properly?
Where do you find so many of these cells? It seems new 18650s are around $4.50 each, are they radically cheaper second hand?
Robert Cook they are included in a 14s syste. so will be charged with solar system capable of 60vdc.
all cells tested with Opus bt3100.
all cells are second hand laptop batteries. only from genuine like hp dell samsung and so forth.
buying new is not an option for me. way to expensive.
I found an improvement on your stripping method. If you put the cable in the vice and take a clawhammer, you can easily pull it off with the clawside. No need to cut anything.
Yes hi how are you doing?...since I disnt see any videos?...I was wondering if u could do, can do a quick, simple 101 video on how you set up your bus bars to the packs?...& then how you connect the packs Together?... I understand everything except, until you get to the part of setting up the bms... & connecting the packs together... thanks
at last! I found the tutorial video I need, great tutorial video!
Awesome video please provide links of battery tray
This video is a 3 years all video. Still it is a wonderful and up-to-date tutorial. Many thanks! I plan to follow your example and use the same design, however, one thing is still bothering me, maybe you can help me with an advice here. You make series connections on the one side of the 80p cell, I believe to make it easier to bolt everything on the shelf. But, does it mean that current will mainly flow through the front cells of the 80p pack? I mean that cell on the front of of the pack would be stressed more than ones on the back? Or this does not really matter and could be neglected? I also plan to put cells on the shelves and making connection in between them in the depth of the shelf would be not comfortable. You have a lot of experience and at least 3 years has past already since this particular cell was built. What would you advice: should I make connection points on the different sides of the 80p cell so that current flow equally through all 80 18650s or does it work perfectly fine when both connection points are on the front side of the cell?
I'm with you HBPowerwall.
Subscribed! Exactly what I needed for my 200 LiOn scavenged in old latop batteries
Just a little correction to the way you connect your busbar - make sure you pull "-" and "+" from opposite ends of the string. The way you have it connected, the 4 cells closest to the end of the busbar will be discharged the most, then the ones after them etc, while the last cells will barely be catching up. That will destroy the first cells a lot quicker. HBpowerwall had the same issue at the start. Actually, in your case all you need to do, is cut a little piece of the busbar out, on each terminal, on opposing sides. Hope you know what I mean. Other than that, excellent work!
Example: www.leadingedgepower.com/images/page/battery_bank_parallel.jpg
It depends. If you stress the cells with high current this is more of an issue and I agree. Hb started with only 1 string at first and that's 80 cells and quite some load per cell. That will stress it and can cause issues in the start.
The bank you see in above video is included in a bank with 1100 cells per string! ;) Yes total number of cells is a lot and videos is coming. Also most of the strings is in a different design totally where above issue cannot happen. Videos coming.
My old bank was connected in cross to reduce the issue with the start getting stressed. One thing also to remember is that it depends on the resistance and dimension of the bus bar. If you have higher resistance this can also cause higher issues-
Never the less my revised construction of above do have this in mind with cross connection instead.
Thanks for your advice! I should have mentioned in the video!
jokari cable knife would be good choice.....
nice video 👍
April27,20/0700hrs. Thank you for the informative video. I’m watching this video for the 4th time; at different times. Every time I watch, I wonder, why there’s no discussion and or video, regarding Charging the assembled unit. Charging is as important as assembly, if I’m not mistaken. How do you charge? What type of charger do you use? What current? Do you use PV system? If using PV System do you prefer PWM or MPPT controller? You have 4.2V@1kW power assembled, what’d you do with it? What’s the final configuration of the set up? Do you series / parallel them for 12V or 24V operation? Where do you store the final assembly? How do you place the batteries?
I feel the above needs to be addressed. Pardon me for requesting explanation, as above. But every time I watch this video, I have the compelling urge to request. If you happened to view my segment, kindly respond.
Thanks and stay safe with the family. 73s
Did you check My overview video? It answers all your questions.
And Quick answer.
140kwh battery att 48v. Ie 14s.
Mppt all days. I got 4 mppt channels. 16kwp solar. Batrium bms..powering My 4 buildings. Ie house and workshop and t
2 other.
Thanks for posting.
I'm a bit confused/concerned about why some battery pack builders solder or spot weld.
Too much heat on the battery will damage the cells.
Is it best to use a large soldering iron?
Is there secret to short quick soldering to make the joint without damaging the cell?
What size fuse wire do you use for a given battery pack?
That's why he is using a 200w soldering iron. If you use lower watts iron it will take much time and damage the battery. Pre fluxing with good quality flux pen will help a lot.
This is great! And you build it quite fast together! Can you do it this way to assemble car battery modules to?
Hi, very nice video, thanks for sharing, I am a kind of beginner and a bit unsure about the voltage of each of your pack. So, if its 12 volts x 3 packs in series, it would be 36 volts ? Or are you connecting 12volt packs parallel... - Is it then better to have a high voltage rather than to stay strict with 12 volts ?
Hello system now how do you use the status ? how many years ?
I bought the exact wire you showed for use in my similar pack, but what is the reason for a thicker wire on the negative side, and what thickness would this be ?
good video think when i make mine im using a copper plate at the bottom, no need to do all that on the negative when the positive is fused. Lot of work for nothing, i like that iron you are using.
this is really good. how do you charge from the grid like a powerwall can?
Thanks. Great informative and easy to understand. 👍
May I ask... I am new to this... what charging system is used in conjunction with your solar system to charge this and however many other similar packs connected together that will manage and charge the system.
Many thanks.
Jason
Brisbane, Australia
My solar system Charge it and i have a Bms system that protect and Keep the packs in balance
Hello! please help me with a tip i need a bms but i don't know how many volts and how many amps it should have, for a li ion battery 14s 51.8v 40ah i have a brushless motor sss56104 790kv 6000w and a pro marine ESC 300A ..Thank you!
What is the thickness of the module with the 18650 cells and the plastic holders? I am planning a set up for my 2014 Rav 4 EV and I want to make sure I can fit the modules. Thanks!!!
Nice and neat..... excelent work
Are you twisting 6 15amp wires together to make that one bus bar wire? Great info by the way!
Why do you remove the extra pieces of fuse wire after you lay it down. They aren't required but they don't bother anything, right?
EbikeSchool.com because i dont want w fuses to each battery. only 1 from the bus bar :) yes u could potentially leave them but that would require double the current to disconect a battery
Got it, thanks for the reply!
Is there any strategy or recommendation for individual cell capacity for each 80P pack? What is the maximum difference between cell capacity in each 80P pack? Can you have cells that are around 1500 milliamps ranging to 3000 milliamps or should all of the cells be within a certain range? Thanks in advance for your time to answer my question.
Wouldn’t it be better to use spot welding?
I did not own One at that time. I do know
kind a difficult to find those copper tinned wired here in my country....any suggest for similar item..
Hi, I've been trying to build a pack for my ebike but having alot of issues. I even must have short circuited the bms board so i think the charging is not working. ive put the copper wire on top of the cells with tape but the voltages are going up and down. are you able to help me if i sent you pictures. also i was not able to solder the the wires on top of the cells because i dont know how to solder properly and solder was not sticking to the top of the cells
Feel free to add the question up on diypowerwalls.com/. If solder does not stick that generally means to little energy/heat or very fithly cells.
where do you buy those batteries? I would like to rebuild a few 18 volt RIOBI batteries. Good show , good ideas, like your presentation, you may give some short inside details of access to the material you use. Keep it up, definitely interesting.
That Old Bob if you want proper cells check out nkon.nl cheap china then check my ebat review 2nd hand then ask around. I also have some links to good ebay deals that will add here tomorrow
Check out this link goo.gl/yLuZyd (Ebay) There you have Ebike batteries that most likely would work great. really good price and its hard to find better deal! So get one or 5 meanwhile they are there.
Very good
great vid, thanks. may I ask a question? How do I know how much amps a battery pack can handle. if I have a motor that draws 40 amps and I am using a 18685 battery pack that has 40 cells, does that mean that each cell is using a 1 amp draw?
It depends. But yes if you have 40 cells in parallel we can make it easy and say it got 1a per cell. But if you got a 4s battery bank with total of 40 cells you only got 10 cells per group.. Then they have to deal with 4a per cell... 2nd hand laptop batteries does not like that high current in general.
so than 4 v with 1000-2000 mah,
so i need made 7 like this for running into my inverter 24volt..
6 of them 6x4,2 volt = 25.2 volt
Took me year and a half to find that wire. Could find just one seller in England
Very helpful, thanks
When you say wire on negative side is "thicker" can you provide some "range" of what size wire to get? I'm sorting batteries now, and have the rest of the pieces, just not clear how big of a wire on the bottom.
I used thicker There just because its easier and you dont need to fuse both sides
@@DIYTechRepairs So, left over phone wire would be fine?
Why does the bus bar extend past the length of the pack? You have it covered, but what if it was shorter and ran under the last row of cells?
Is this used for even current flow? Would it affect the end cells more if the design isn't perfectly symmetrical?
@@mwint1982 the more symstrical the better. It extended so i easily can Connect them
@@DIYTechRepairs I am more curious about the end with the heat shrink. If that end was shorter.
@@mwint1982 can be. But i want it to stick out to make it easier to assemble
very good, congratulations!
Hello, I'm thinking of creating this system, for my home in Spain. It's only a small place. And my electric supply form the board is capped at 6kw . How many of these bundles will I need to power my house without the use of the grid.
Fantastic
hi .. How do I design a charger for a high voltage 12 volt battery, for example 50 amps for a car lithium emergency battery
Thanks for your video. I have a small question why we need to cut the fuse wire at negative at 11:45. Can we let the fuse run through row like 4 negative will be connected. Thank you
The more places the wire is hooked up to the higher current is needed. So thats why you only use 1 point of contact to the busbar per cell.
What type of wire do you for the pack
brilliant! Now what bms will you be or could be setting this up with?
Im using batrium
Great job! Amazing!
Could I do it like this for 13s 48v e bike battery were do you get those plates from
Yes you can do that for 13s as well. I generally get the plates from Ebay. They exist in all kind of form factors from single cell holders that you can put together to 4x5 and even bigger. 4x5 : goo.gl/me4Xpe and single holders: goo.gl/kg4PKN
I wan to build a 128s14p battery pack, there's a lot of cell, do you know a way(calculator) to make all 14p blocks the same capacity
128 cells in series is massive voltage.
. Perhaps 14s128p? Check My video on how to arrange the cells and you have the sollution There :)
I love that soldering iron 200w... It looks like a old timer. Where did you get that?
Good question. Its something my father had earlier. Im guessing 2-300watt. And its at least 30 years old :) It have a solid copper tip so it erodes quite fast but its easy to just change to a new one...
Helpful, thanks
awesome video dude ! :)
Good job, I like the busbars idea, but could you please share how did you calculate those almost 1 KWh? As I know in your case it should be like 80 celis times 2.2A (average cell capacity) times 3.7 nominal voltage = 651.2 Wh.
You are correct about the 1kWh. That was wrong by me :) To be honest the cells is avg more of 2.4 but no matter what i just thought "its close to 10kw so that is 1kw per pack..." Never thought about that it was 14 so my math sucked when recording..... So it should be around 700Wh per pack and almost 10kWh in total per string.
Onе more thing - I don`t know how will you organize the packs, but IMHO just hot glue is no enough. Take a look at the knack of flyjabiru11 - it`s easy and inexpensive.
Wish you all the best.
Petko Vasilev hot glue in my case is just for holding them until soldered. if i were to move them around you would need to tie it down alot more. in my case the glue plus soldered wires should be ok. The time will tell and if needed i do have a backup plan :)
Thanks for raising the concern
Petko Vasilev you are right, almost half of what he said to be.. but the question here would be how to and what to use to charge the battery bank? I made one like that one but my solar charger won't even read the voltage.
Charge 1 single 3.7V bank? Use a RC charger or DC/DC converter and it will work fine. I use my iCharger for that.
Thank you
I have 8 80 packs I have them in two p strings of four in series. My problem is the first pack of the neg end of both strings is taking all the draw and no draw going past the first pack. It's weird. Any clues to this problem. Thanks
I didnt see you using repackr software. Is it safe to select the batteries and place them in any order?
I dont use repackr because its not needed on larger packs
@@DIYTechRepairs interesting. Ok
Good job well done...
How did u calculate your watts...volts x amps?
Is this battery pack 24 volts? Or 12 volts
Another question are all your batteries facing one side all positive and the other facing side all negative... because if yes than this is simple...I'm making a power wall than
Watt = volt + amp. Those valence are 12 = 4s100p. Terminals is on those in the middle of the packs
@@DIYTechRepairs so volts + amps pls if you can show me how
Am I supposed to calculate nominal voltage or highest voltage for each cell than plus amps that means what each of your green cover battries was how many amps pls I would appreciate if u can show me though I've started to build my power wall thank you once more
@@safwanyousuf3570 nominal voltage depends on the cells you have choosen. All in the datasheet. Are you also mixing kw and kwh?
@@DIYTechRepairs ok you said volts + amps what does that mean? if my cell is 3.7 volts and 3000mah? So..
Eee sorry I'm confused...
What I'm trying to say is got 110 laptop batteries
And I have a charger
Some batteries are discharged some saying
3.5 volts
3.6 volts
3.8 volts
4.0 volts etc
And my charger just shows green when its fully charged so but I can see where it says full charged yes but how many mahs is that? Unless I check the site? DIY power walls.com? Is there chargers that show that battery is full at 4.2 volts and holds this much mah makes it much easier for all of us
@@safwanyousuf3570 You need a tester that tests capacity. Then you get out how much each cell have left. Opus BT c3100 is an example that i link
you said this was nearly a 1kWh pack... what is your average mAh per cell in that 80 cell pack?
Thats wrong. Its 10kWh in 14s. Its only 0.68kWh in one pac. Or somewhere around 2.3Ah/cell
@@DIYTechRepairs should all the packs in series have to have the same capacity?
@@larsstevens8528 yes
Hi great videos!
Can I use a battery pack as it comes from a tesla 90d from 2017, ev?
I have one available 444 cells and supposedly 5.5 kw
Not sure. What voltage is is? How many cells in series?
I'm just curious on the fuse side. Aren't these batteries rated from 10amps and up(depending on the 18650 amp type) you used 5amp fuse wire. Are these batteries maxed at 5amps?
I'm looking forward to your reply.
Cheers,
Colin.
I max them at 0.5A roughly. But in 80p pack they can produce 800A easy. So if 1 cell goes bad 5a or even 10A fuse is not a problem as such. Beware of that using to small wire will cause voltage drop
@@DIYTechRepairs Thank you for your reply.
A couple more questions please.
If I use 20amp 18650's in my set up. Should I use 20amp fuse wire to join from the bus-bar? At the one end (does it matter if it's the + or - end?) and what gauge wire should be used on the other end?
Thank you.
Col.
I recommend checking out battery university (great online resource). The lower your charge/discharge rate, the more charge/discharge cycles your li-ion batteries will yield. According to battery university, < 2 amps charge/discharge rate is desirable.
@@andrewgervais3039 Thank you. Is that a RUclips channel or a website?
Cheers
It's a website.
could you give a little description of the electronic parts in your solar system
diytechandrepairs.nu/current-solar-layout/ and you can find some info browsing my other videos about how its setup.
hi cn you send me a link wear to get this fuse wire please thank you
Does any copper wire 0,2mm thin can be used as a 5A fuse? For example, a wire used in winding of motors? I see some people using resistors legs as a fuse. Does this legs burn at 5A or more?
Winding motor wire are coated and rather hard to work with. You need to crosscheck them your self if you wanna use them. I cannot tell if they would work for 5A load.
@@DIYTechRepairs thank you 👍
How come you didn't measure the resistance of the batteries? Is that important?
Because I go by the other values and by testing 10 000 cells I know they will work. It's not high current cells im trying to match up
Interesting video :) Are all the cells in parallel for the whole pack ?
Zen Zen yeap it is 80p. they will be in a larger string and then conform 14s80p strings.
Thanks :)
I'm just wondering why lots of people build their battery banks in a Parallel-Series configuration; i.e. 80 x 2Ah in parallel for 160Ah pack, then 7 packs connected in series to get a 28V bank rather than a Series-Parallel configuration; i.e. 7 x 2Ah in Series for a 28V pack then 80 packs in parallel for 160Ah. In my mind, this makes the bank more modular. You should only need to fuse each series pack. Have the ability to replace faulty packs or add packs while the battery bank is online. Thoughts?
You are correct but then you get 80 strings where you need to crosscheck all cells so they are in balance. I always go n+1 on my setups. That is a spare of everything. In my case i have 3 of 14s80p. So i can easily take one of those larger ones out for maintenance. Going smaller like you said would leave me with 240strings! That is alot of strings to monitor balancing on. The fuses on the cell is also to protect from that specific cell. If you go your method i would still need all those fuses to protect against the issue im doing now. External fuse per string is also used of course.
Hope that explains if not just let me know and il do my best
Thank you for your time. Wouldn't balance monitoring across such a massively parallel pack only yield the health of the majority of the cells in the pack? If a pack were to develop 5 or 10 lame (not sure of the proper terminology) cells out of 80, would it be obvious at the onset? As for fusing, wouldn't fusing every cell in a 14s1p pack be redundant?
Johann Amin yes u get harder to locate one cell. but imagine having 3000 or more cells like i have. would o rather do 100s of strings and then have 100s of bms system that cost alot or have 3 strings with 3 bms systems and save ton of money :) in worst case i need to check through 80 cells. rhat takes me 24 hours to do. 1hour job to pick out and then add them back to my test rig :)
thats why i do it.
yes if u go 14s1p fuse for each cell would be overkill.... but on the other hand there is noone out there doing that setup for a system with 3000 cells or more. not even big companoes does that. if u look at my valence battery i opened they have 4s100p. :)
Yes, I agree with you on the need to do health monitoring on the battery bank & the associated costs with said monitoring as part of the system as a whole. I do apologize if I seem a little pedantic as I've only just stated looking into solar. Then there will be inverters, stacking inverters, grid-tie inverters, online/offline inverters, switching inverters, etc to look into. So much information it boggles the mind. Thank you for sharing your time & have a good day.
Johann Amin no worries! i help to the best of my knowledge!
Why do you use fuse fire on negative pole as well?
Because its just simple to add it when on it. I dont have to have 2 sizes in front of me
I‘m gonna do a 6s6p to charge my batteries when flying in the field. One 2.5 mm wire should be sufficient? Maximum amp draw will be like 16A.
Super great
I have some question about power wall and the batteries i have
so you disassembly the 80 p pack for charge or use a bigger charger, can I have the model
No, the 80p packs are bundled into my powerwall and then charged by my solar system. If I want to charge a bigger pack itself I use my iCharger as mentioned in the other video I linked.
where we can buy that battery and how much is price for 18650 battery with 2.4Ah or more ?
goo.gl/jFVLT3 on ebay have tons but there is other too. otherwise if you want new cell go to nkon.nl
if i want to make a battery pack that would supply 48v 100 Ah, how many 18650 cells do i need and how can i organize them?
14s and 100ah in each 14s pack. if you got 2ah cells you need 14s50p. (Could be 13s if voltage is to high on 14)
so I need to use a total of 700 batteries, right?
so if i have 6kw panels, and 5kw inverter i use 23kwh / day 3 of these banks should cover night usage you think?
It depends on how much you use per night. Lets say you use 20kWh during 1 night you would need atleast 2.5 of above strings to cope with it. More preferable would be lets say 4-5 or more so you can cope with some bad weather too. I use 16kWh per day and got almost 100kWh of storage currently
DIY Tech & Repairs i mean 23kwh is my entire day night usage. Thanks for getting back to me.
day or night? or both?
DIY Tech & Repairs yeah Etotal is 23kwh day &night. That was before my 6kw panels 5kw inverter. So that’s my rough day night usage.
So what is your night useage? Its hard to calculate that without knowing the actual usage. Currently I only know the total and depending on area your nigh can be 5kWh or it can be 20kWH
would it be better to build packs series paralleled. or all parallel then series the packs?
Depends on how many BMS systems you want to have? You need one per string. xsyp then its 1 string but ypxs then you get y number of strings :)
DIY Tech & Repairs
I hope to end up with about 10,000+ cells. in a 7s24v pack. or 29v max. I was going to use the. BMS/balance board for charging only. since the inverter shuts off its self. at low voltage. and use a low voltage disconnect for DC loads. I was thinking since the pack is going to be so large. maybe use a MOSFET and a 6v incandescent bulb. to pull down the high cells balancing them. just mod the balance board. and get about a amp or so. most I heard have like 60ma or 120ma balance current. I haven't seen any cheaper boards
with more. with my limited know how in electronics . I may end up burning up a few. so a few extra wouldn't be a bad idea. I'm thinking start with 20cells in a 4x5 pack paralleled . times 7 series. then keep adding to that. and if there isn't enough cells to double . maybe build a small series parallel pack. so the pack can be used. until I get more cells. but hopefully I will not have to deal with that. I was thinking about keeping a extra BMS balance board for backup. or would large 7s by ? parallel packs. just be more complicated than it needs to be. thanks. have any ideas for good cheap BMS/balance boards?
None of the cheap are "good" and I would definitely use the BMS both for load and charging. The Inverter will only look at total voltage and not individual voltages on your packs. Its better to split the packs into several strings with several BMS systems. Doing that will get you better view of how it all works and you can swap out a pack if needed. When you start looking at those smaller BMS you will though soon end up at a larger cost and then the Batrium or other werent that expensive. Especially not with 10 000 cells....
Here you got example BMS goo.gl/z5NAUw but it only does 20A and it only balances when you reach top charge ie 4.2V. One on each 20p pack or if you plan on lower current per cell you can go higher packs like 40p or equal. Thats what I would do it but for 10 000 cells in total I would go a proper BMS like Batrium ;)
Hope the coughing child is well. All the lead and other fumes may not hurt her.
It's cool
I presume you are building a 48v system. My question is how do I use this 80 cell bank to build a 24v system. How many of this 80 cell bank will i need ?
You need 7 in series for a 7s aka 24V system
What the best brand of cells?
Depends on application and who you ask. I think the best brand is the one that performs for the application in question
so does the 14s means u will create 14 of the packs?
Tanik Sambo yes
Great! But how to charge it? What iCharger is?
Oleh Mizyurko icharger is a brand of a charger.
Thank you! I wonder how this charger works? I have IMAX B6 from mime rc model. And it can charge only 6pcs in series. And to charge e.g. battary 48v (14*3.7) It needs 3 times to charge it separately (6, 6, 2). How do you balance cells during the charge for a big batteries? Thanks!
Oleh Mizyurko i dont. i charge all to top before assembly and then i either just paralell then for some days to balance or run bms on them :)
IMAX b6 sucks because it's about 50w per hour looks for something around 150-250w (if your battery can take it) perhaps ternigy
why thicker fues wire on the bottom ?
what are the sources for the cell holder? cost? etc.
Roughly 0.4USD per 4x5 holder. goo.gl/jL8mkN Here is where i get them.
Can i make 3, 4volt packs and link them up to make a 12 volt bank?
Mick Gatz yes u can.
Thanks. :)
As long as you never charge above 12.6v
Nice...
I need help I am from Puerto Rico I have an inverter of 1500 watts and three solar panels of 100 watts in parallel charge to 13.5v 20 amp. How many batteries do I need for the system so that it works for me 24 hours I do not know if you can not do much of the batteries 18650 thank you so I can turn on my refrigerator I have no service for hurricane Maria thank you.
Hi. the problem is that the charger you have is Lead acid and if you use 3s you will overcharge the cells. Can you set voltage on the controller? If not you need to go to 4s but then you wont be able to fully charge it either. How many cells you need in total i cant tell because that depends on your total load during 24 hours. Glad to help so just hit reply and i will reply again.
my consumption is 560 watts per hour for 4 hours and then 110watts the refrigerator 16 hours as many batteries at least I need for the refrigerator that consumes 110 watts thanks to using the 18650 for your attention is that the other batteries are very expensive.
Im not sure i follow? 560w for 4 hours per 24 hours? and the refrigerator runs for 16 hours per day and 110watt?
Whare your bms? Without bms???
If you check my other videos you find out what type of BMS i use and also about software developed towards it ;)
what kind of control charge you use
Jose Garcia contol charge?
this control charge has a model number
What is a "controll charge"? Are you talking about what charger/tester that im using for testing my cells? If so im using The opus: goo.gl/KDf1tw DONT buy the ones for under 12 USD.. They are fake and does not exist. Always go with the 30+USD units. I also use iCharger 308 but only for ref testing. More info here: ruclips.net/video/w5GFp8QBxP8/видео.html
What is the cell model ?
18650 size liion cells. random brands and types from laptop packs