Just did this on my 2011 E92 M3. Thanks for the great video. Dealer wanted $1500.00. Did it for $200 in parts. Took about 2 hours. Be careful with the bleeder screw. Mine broke when bleeding due to cheap plastic. Regular auto parts places have replacement screws.
Thanks for the great DIY! Just completed the job in a few hours on mine with 74k mls. A few things I didn't need to do. Airbox comes out as 1 piece, just two bolts on the right holds it in place, remove the snorkel, loosen plenum hose clamp, pull up and wiggle out. Plenum box sits on top of the OSV and pops right off when you remove the 8 hose clamps so no need for Ignition coil covers and coolant reservoir to be removed. The 3rd + 4th clamp on the left are a little tougher - use a shorter extension to get at them.
haha, thanks dude -- feedback is why I keep doing DIY videos. this one I tried the hardest on to date though. had studio lighting and used my DSLR. Typically, I shoot with my iPhone 6S and no additional lighting.
+Camper1234599 well the video and lighting was great, i wanna get a m3 sedan but im scared of the engine maintaince but shit you make it seem like theirs nothing to be afraid of
Its a chill vid, THERE IS A COVER ON THE PULLY I looked for 45 mins for the bolt had to watch a diff video. Not bad for a country install, def ALWAYS REPLACE them dag gone seals, Mine are leaking.. 2011 with 175k, Torque specs are also essential Continue mission
Thanks for this video. Very helpful. One question though, there are 4 o-rings that come with the kit if you order them on fcp. However, I only see 2 o-rings that need to be replaced between the engine coolant pipe and the thermostat housing. Have I missed something? Can the sleeves be taken out and another pair of o-rings installed on the inside?
Fantastic video! Only thing is that these cards have an electric bleeding procedure since the water pump is electric. 1) Insert the key into the dash slot and hit the starter button (but don’t start the engine - e.g. keep your foot off the bake/clutch). 2) When the ignition is on, set the heater to the highest temp (84 deg.) and set the fan on low. 3) Hold down the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds then release. This activates the water pump and it will cycle for about 12 minutes to vent all the trapped air into the coolant reservoir (it sounds like a min washing machine). Don’t open the reservoir cap or bleed screw during the venting process! (you’ll have start the process over) You may want to hook up a extra battery to the under-hood jumper points to keep the car’s battery from running down. 4) Once the water pump stops after 12 minutes, open the reservoir cap (it will hiss a little) and add coolant until the measuring stick (ball indicator) is 6 mm above the top of the filler neck.
Sorry to bother you but can I ask your advice on one step. I’ve got 7 of the 8 jubilee clamps loose but I cannot access the last one. It’s the one at the far back on the left as you look at the engine. Any tips? Big thanks. Neil.
Ovalbore The clamps that hold each throttle body to the air intake. Don’t worry I managed to get it loose with a long extension. Took me 4 hours to get the intake off! It’s very fidderly the first time you try it! Can I ask if you had to drain the coolant? If I remove the hoses from the thermostat will coolant spill out? Thanks.
Very informative, I really like the extra little tips you give. Those tend to save DIYers a lot of time. One note, you don't need to loosen the oil separator or remove the spark plug covers (and by extension don't need to loosen the coolant expansion tank) to remove the plenum. All you need is a flexible bit extension with a 6mm socket (or was it an 8mm?). You can easily snake that to the 8 clamps.
Yea I don't have to remove the PCV or the covers or the expansions tank, got my electric ratchet, a wobble extension, and a deep socket 6mm. I can get the whole intake plenum off in less than 10 minutes. I'm going to be doing this job this week, hearing noises from the pump on startup and increased emissions code, which apparently can be caused by the thermostat.
It should be noted that the 2 bolts on top of the plenum box are non-functional. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE. the author doesn't verbally say to remove them, but he does point at them when referring to screws to remove on the intake.
+Charlie Hustle btw i just replaced my thermostat at 35K miles. this diy was helpful, but didn't really refer to the coolant and whether it should be drained. I ended up using a turkey baster connect to a rubber hose to drain the reservoir. Emptied about a gallon and resulted in very little coolant loss when disconnecting the radiator hose. Also, beware the bolts on the oil separators are aluminum so if you drop one (like i did) you can't retrieve it with a magnetic tool. I found it wasn't necessary to loosen them anyway. Don't pry the thermostat out of the housing. pull straight up, alternating sides until it loosens.
Hi, this is a great DIY video, very thorough and clear. I am having difficulty mounting the belt onto the water pump pulley after replacing the waterpump. Pushing down the tensioner is not giving enough slack to let the belt get onto the pulley. It is wet from the coolant that dripped from the thermostat housing. Any tips on how to mount the belt? just let it dry and try again? Thanks!
Was using a hex socket (the bolt got stripped slightly and a regular wrench wouldn’t hold it anymore) to rotate the tensioner clockwise and the ratchet head kept hitting a steel pipe, not allowing full slack in the belt. Used a ring wrench and it solved the issue. Thanks again for the great video!
Just an FYI. I was able to get at and loosen the plenum clamps fairly easily with a socket on an extension so taking the coil cover off is unnecessary to get the plenum off. Thanks for the video. I followed it to get access to the secondary air pump and replace it.
Awesome video, it really helped. Thank you for posting it! :) On the way in, you didn't mention the cover over the tensioner bolt. I expected an offset bolt on the tensioner frame; turns out you have to remove the cap and just pull the tensioner itself with that 14mm wrench. You also don't mention any tricks for getting the water pump pulley out. it's atight fight, both coming off or going on. Any tricks for getting it off and on?
tensioner cap is an omission, apologies -- I have worked on BMWs with those caps dating back to 1991 so I know exactly what they are and how to deal with them (usually they're missing) but yes good point. pry under the lip with a flat blade screw driver and it pops right off. the pulley wasn't all that tight a fit here, came right off and popped right out with the belt off to the side.
Hey I know its a old vid, would you happen to know what the torque is for screwing down the 3 bolts for the thermostat as one of mine broke while trying to tighten! Thanks 👍
Aye i need my water pump changed on my e93 m3 how much u think is a fair price someone charges me? Ofc ill buy the part but the labor how much anyone ? Need help
Just discovered your channel great video! Not sure if there is anything wrong let's see what you think? Just want to make sure my car doesn't have issues, after driving for 20 minutes the temp gauge gets up to just under half(the only way it will get to the half mark is when I'm in traffic for a bit) I know some what cooler is better but wondering if that is normal, or do I need to change my thermostat? 2011 E92 M3 102,000 kms on it Thanks
Jimmy H I plan on doing a DIY for every maintenance item this car comes in needing. so far the throttle actuator is original and still functioning properly.
Really great video. Thanks for making this. How long did this take you to do? How long do you anticipate it would take a novice? I thought this would be a harder task to perform on the S65 but this video makes it seem very simple.
I think this took me just over an hour start to finish. novice with inadequate tools, likely 4 hours. it's very straight forward. Much easier in my opinion than a 328i or 335i water pump.
That's about what I was guessing for a novice. Very cool. It seems like the alternator is pretty accessible while doing this job. Do you think replacing that while you're in there would take much additional time?
pretty much the only part that's easier when doing this for the alt is the belt is off and the air box is out. I personally wouldn't do it unless you know it's about at the end of its life. would not be hard to do after the fact.
Makes sense. The plenum doesn't look like it needs to be off and the airbox is a piece of cake to remove. I just bought my car and it's about to roll over 62k miles so I'm trying to take care of these things before they fail :) Especially the water pump. It's nice to see that the M3 didn't get the electric pump used in the series cars.
+Thomas Lee 34k is pretty darn new. only stuff I would do is brake fluid and little time sensitive things like that, as well as general inspection stuff. you've got a while till' you have to worry about anything serious.
@@OvalboreCars I don't know... I have a 2013 E92 M3 and it only has 28K miles on it. My oil level reading as too high all the sudden after 6 months of driving without issue. I found out i have a code P0128 Coolant Thermostat Malfunction from the OBD2 reader. Now I want to know if it's necessary to change the water pump if i decide to change the thermostat? Great video btw.
Hi: Thanks for this info: is this water pump and thermostat are the one that cause the Transmission to overheat? last night my M3 dash said " Transmission overheat" but this morning it's not there anymore, and car drive normal. so dose that mean my transmission is still o.k? I hope it;s not transmission . please reply....Thanks
I had the Transmission overheat message on my 2011 M3, the dealer said they needed to update the Transmission software to correct the problem, wanted $200 for that job.
wow That's good news that nothing wrong with my transmission otherwise it's expensive,,,,,,,But $200 for update is rip off... This happen last year too around December and it's software update stuff. at least we have a nice fun car to drive everyday,,,,,,I got 51,000 miles now !
Hello, very good friend, the video. I want to ask you a technical question. a month ago I bought a M3 E92 manual transmission year 2009 it has a slight vibration when I accelerate it stopped in neutral between 1200 and 1500 RPM. It feels like the engine is out of balance, is that normal? do you know what the problem would be?
@@OvalboreCars Hello, thanks for answering. Linked specifically to RPM in motion the vibration is not detected. and at RPM greater than 2000 it evens out the gear.
this car had 121K. it was overdue. I'd say 80K mile interval is tops for safety. rod bearings, do oil analysis and check for copper tracing. never heard of oil pump issues.
+Camper1234599 thx for the advice, I changed rod bearings at 103000km (65k miles) cilinder 6 and 7 where hitting copper already...I also changed the thermostat but did not do the water pump or do you really recommend this? regards, if you want a picture of rod bearings send me ur email on pm?
+eraserke the pump generally fails before the thermostat. I don't need the photos, no. I have experienced rod bearing premature wear with the S54, S65, S85 and S62.
hmm what does that mean? Im starting to elarn a bit abt the insides, own an m3 but I basically knows nothing abt the mechanical stuffs. Plus Im from Malaysia and these cars does not have heater, it uses aircond.
What are the symptoms of water pump going bad? I replaced my oil filter housing and now only 1 gallon of water and 1 gallon of coolant goes in and reservoir fills up. Could that be an issue?
I have notice unique noise since I putted everything back together. Sort of louder ticking noise. Temperature is good. Ive drove it and gave it a gas and temperature not rising up or overheating. And its all with 1 gallon of each. I heard that those water pumps go out in open position so it technically circulates coolant. What do you think?
Here is threat I posted. Just to give an idea whats going on. Hello. So Ive finally replaced oil filter housing on my M3. When I did such job I took off pretty much everything, radiator, fan, most of the pulleys, vibration damper and housing itself. My car was sitting for almost 2 months and 1 month with all those stuff out due to fact that I had to order some parts as I was going along with repairs. As I was working on it and installing new oil filter housing I have started the car without alternator plugged In a few times(no belts, no coolant, just a quick 2 min run to see oil leaks). Housing that I have used is from 2011 M3 with a different pulley. Some people say that belt needs to be rerouted and go over power steering but that will make it spin in a different direction, I left it the way it was before. Also 2008 year was making both pulley types so its not an issue. So as I was putting everything back together it didn't have enough power to crank the engine with all the belts so I jump started with my friends car. So when everything was back together now I have check engine light on, as well as some emission problem on a screen. On top of that only 1 GALLON OF COOLANT AND 1 GALLON OF distilled water goes in before reservoir tops off. I've let car warm up for good 15 minutes as well driving it for another 5 with giving it some good power and its not overheating but level is not dropping as well? Can someone please explain what is going on? I know I shouldn't of not started the car without alternator but I wasn't trying to put everything together just to see if housing still leaks. It is not covered under warranty, car has about 87kkk miles on it. I have to do everything myself.
Suddenly I realized... I should just leave it to the dealership service center. 😔 It's too complicated for me. But the oil change DIY video was simple enough.
one ugga dugga! honestly use a 1/4" ratchet and snug that bad boy down. if you don't have a decent sense of torque for a fastener, use some blue threadlock. outside of wheels, internal engine parts, and clutch parts, I do not use a torque wrench.
Hey man, can you do some "engine buyers guide" or something like tha on this car? I'm going to pick up one of these, but i gotta be honest, i have no fucking clue what to look for on a used car like this.. I could really use some video material that's gonna help me out before buying one of these :)
+NobodyCares This was a friend's car I was doing service on at the time -- I'd be happy to do another video with the common things to look for but would be a stupid video without an E90 M3 in front of me. That being said the PPI is king on these cars. the main failures I note are as follows: 1.) engine rod bearings. you can often times get oil analysis from a company like Blackstone Laboratories in IN (not a paid sponsor, I just love their service) to pick up on high lead and brass levels in the oil before major damage is done. this should be noted in service history if it has been done prior to you buying the car, if not -- I strongly suggest at VERY least getting a drained oil sample from the car at time of PPI, sending it in and checking metals levels in the oil, if not -- budget to have the bearings replaced. 2.) throttle actuators. the electric fiddly bit that actually opens and closes the throttle bodies on the S65 engine proportionate to your foot potentiometer (throttle pedal) 3.) clutch release bearings. I have seen this a few times on 2008 cars only. you'll notice a strange clutch take up. requires clutch kit replacement. I would also as a rule avoid the DCT. get a 6 speed. it'll hold value better and will not cost you basically anything to run. plus side is the car is 200 lbs lighter without the DCT. Strongly suggest the 4 door sedan as well. more rigid body shell and the interior will hold up to the test of time better than the 2 door. (just how it has always been on the 3 series). less common issues will ALL be brought to light by a PPI. neglected services on trans and diff oils, potential structural issues on subframes from cars that have been hustled on the track a lot, etc. check brake rotors and pads. Pads are cheap but a set of rotors for this car is $1,000-$1,200+
even the F80 M3 has a mechanical water pump. was very surprised to see. don't quote me on this, but EVERY 'S' engine has a mechanical water pump to date.
The tensioner step is very confusing, you oversimplify it. There is a cover on the tensioner pulley that needs to be removed in order to put a socket on it
It's definitely not an over simplification. very typical to have a cover on any vehicle's tensioner wheel. This isn't a good 'first' service job for a shade tree at home mechanic, so it's fair to make the assumption and move around it for the sake of time.
It's very typical to have screws and bolts on a car too, so can just skip the entire DIY altogether. Given that the part of the video where you attempt to show where the tensioner is, is not clear. Skipping the step of removing a part on that tensioner is oversimplifying...
I think your channel is great. I have a weird whine coming from my e90, I suspect it to be my water pump pulley, BMW cannot figure it out. Can you check on the video on my channel and provide me you inputs. Thanks
Thanks for the reply. Do you think it could possibly be the water pump pulley also? That pulley doesn't look like it has any bearings, but I threw some water in it while it was running and the squeal temp stopped. When you say alternator do you mean the pulley? Thanks
I'm guessing you're not in the states, so I don't know what engine you have -- no US market E90 except the M3 and the 335D have a mechanical water pump driven by the belt. it is possible the bearings in your water pump (if mechanically driven) are going bad as well. step 1 is pull the belt off when engine is cold and spin all of the idlers and accessories, feel for notches, difficulty turning, play etc.
I'm in the states, my M3 is a 2008 e90 it has a mechanical pump. I can't figure out why the squeal would go away when I would spray water on the pulley. I checked the bolts on the water pump pulley.They weren't lose but felt lightly torqued. So I tightened them up. Squeal came back quieter the next day. Sprayed WD40 on the bolts with it running and in the center of the pulley. Squeal stopped for about two seconds and then came back.
ah, didn't sound like an S65. my vote is tensioner/idler. water will either make the slip stop or increase, both of which will eliminate the slip noise.
they stopped making plastic ones in 1995, but 1996+ are Composite. still not great. not really all that many failures with the impellers anymore though like the plastic ones used to. most failures I see are bearing related.
BMWs throw their water pumps and cooling parts way too quickly. I bet this car doesn't even have 50k on it. I just changed the mechanical water pump on my Uncle's S55 AMG W220 but the car has 295,000kms on it. I reused the thermostat since it was replaced not too long ago. Plastic electric water pumps and plastic cooling pipes aren't a good idea especially when it needs to cool such a sweet high revving motor like this one.
odd, seems thousands of others havent had a single problem following this FREE loose guideline which covers every step necessary to do the job. Maybe it's not me, it's you.
Авто/Мото
Thank you for this. I'm so glad there is someone like you to make these helpful videos. Makes my life so much easier. Great job, well done.
Just did this on my 2011 E92 M3. Thanks for the great video. Dealer wanted $1500.00. Did it for $200 in parts. Took about 2 hours. Be careful with the bleeder screw. Mine broke when bleeding due to cheap plastic. Regular auto parts places have replacement screws.
Thanks for the great DIY! Just completed the job in a few hours on mine with 74k mls.
A few things I didn't need to do. Airbox comes out as 1 piece, just two bolts on the right holds it in place, remove the snorkel, loosen plenum hose clamp, pull up and wiggle out. Plenum box sits on top of the OSV and pops right off when you remove the 8 hose clamps so no need for Ignition coil covers and coolant reservoir to be removed. The 3rd + 4th clamp on the left are a little tougher - use a shorter extension to get at them.
one of the best diy videos that I've seen.
one of the best, most thorough diy videos ive seen in a long time! well done!
+all4bspinnin Thanks!
Pro tip : you can watch movies on Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching all kinds of movies recently.
@Simon Kade yea, been using Flixzone} for since november myself :)
Super helpful video! Thank you for the walk through.
thanks for watchin
Thanks for the video! Looks like I’m gonna change my thermostat and water pump next week. I got a thermostat engine code on my E90 m3
They're getting to that age now where I feel like this'll get a lot more common :p
i wish there was DIY videos like this for my car, you did a great job man like really really
haha, thanks dude -- feedback is why I keep doing DIY videos.
this one I tried the hardest on to date though. had studio lighting and used my DSLR.
Typically, I shoot with my iPhone 6S and no additional lighting.
+Camper1234599 well the video and lighting was great, i wanna get a m3 sedan but im scared of the engine maintaince but shit you make it seem like theirs nothing to be afraid of
Great job, clean car. Thank you
Great video thanks a lot
Great diy!! Thank you thank you!
Jimmy H happy to help!
Its a chill vid, THERE IS A COVER ON THE PULLY I looked for 45 mins for the bolt had to watch a diff video. Not bad for a country install, def ALWAYS REPLACE them dag gone seals, Mine are leaking.. 2011 with 175k, Torque specs are also essential Continue mission
great vid man! coming from American muscle and Imports...this helps a alot when the time comes. Very Thorough.
Thanks! happy to help.
Thanks for this video. Very helpful. One question though, there are 4 o-rings that come with the kit if you order them on fcp. However, I only see 2 o-rings that need to be replaced between the engine coolant pipe and the thermostat housing. Have I missed something? Can the sleeves be taken out and another pair of o-rings installed on the inside?
Fantastic video! Only thing is that these cards have an electric bleeding procedure since the water pump is electric.
1) Insert the key into the dash slot and hit the starter button (but don’t start the engine - e.g. keep your foot off the bake/clutch).
2) When the ignition is on, set the heater to the highest temp (84 deg.) and set the fan on low.
3) Hold down the accelerator pedal for 10 seconds then release. This activates the water pump and it will cycle for about 12 minutes to vent all the trapped air into the coolant reservoir (it sounds like a min washing machine). Don’t open the reservoir cap or bleed screw during the venting process! (you’ll have start the process over) You may want to hook up a extra battery to the under-hood jumper points to keep the car’s battery from running down.
4) Once the water pump stops after 12 minutes, open the reservoir cap (it will hiss a little) and add coolant until the measuring stick (ball indicator) is 6 mm above the top of the filler neck.
pump is absolutely not electric on the M3 (or 335D)
electric on the N51, N52, N54, N55 cars yes.
Big big thanks for this video. I am going to attempt this today. Wish me luck....!
you'll do fine! :p
Sorry to bother you but can I ask your advice on one step. I’ve got 7 of the 8 jubilee clamps loose but I cannot access the last one. It’s the one at the far back on the left as you look at the engine. Any tips? Big thanks. Neil.
a what a what now? jubilee clamp?
Ovalbore The clamps that hold each throttle body to the air intake. Don’t worry I managed to get it loose with a long extension. Took me 4 hours to get the intake off! It’s very fidderly the first time you try it!
Can I ask if you had to drain the coolant? If I remove the hoses from the thermostat will coolant spill out? Thanks.
I just drained it on the floor pulling stuff off. the proper proceedure for draining is different, but I didnt particularly care:)
Great video! I wouldnt work on a hot engine and I would have drained the coolant, but thats just me.
but think of the SPEED!
Awesome, thanks!
you're most welcome. hope it helps.
Very informative, I really like the extra little tips you give. Those tend to save DIYers a lot of time. One note, you don't need to loosen the oil separator or remove the spark plug covers (and by extension don't need to loosen the coolant expansion tank) to remove the plenum. All you need is a flexible bit extension with a 6mm socket (or was it an 8mm?). You can easily snake that to the 8 clamps.
makes it easier and takes less than a minute
Yea I don't have to remove the PCV or the covers or the expansions tank, got my electric ratchet, a wobble extension, and a deep socket 6mm. I can get the whole intake plenum off in less than 10 minutes. I'm going to be doing this job this week, hearing noises from the pump on startup and increased emissions code, which apparently can be caused by the thermostat.
@@erack1you fixed it?
@@dannyphantoom69damn that was so long ago 😂. I don’t remember
@@erack1 so u sold the car
It should be noted that the 2 bolts on top of the plenum box are non-functional. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE. the author doesn't verbally say to remove them, but he does point at them when referring to screws to remove on the intake.
+Charlie Hustle btw i just replaced my thermostat at 35K miles. this diy was helpful, but didn't really refer to the coolant and whether it should be drained. I ended up using a turkey baster connect to a rubber hose to drain the reservoir. Emptied about a gallon and resulted in very little coolant loss when disconnecting the radiator hose. Also, beware the bolts on the oil separators are aluminum so if you drop one (like i did) you can't retrieve it with a magnetic tool. I found it wasn't necessary to loosen them anyway. Don't pry the thermostat out of the housing. pull straight up, alternating sides until it loosens.
Procedure to drain the coolant?
Anyone know how to take thermostat from the housing
Hi, this is a great DIY video, very thorough and clear. I am having difficulty mounting the belt onto the water pump pulley after replacing the waterpump. Pushing down the tensioner is not giving enough slack to let the belt get onto the pulley. It is wet from the coolant that dripped from the thermostat housing. Any tips on how to mount the belt? just let it dry and try again? Thanks!
Was using a hex socket (the bolt got stripped slightly and a regular wrench wouldn’t hold it anymore) to rotate the tensioner clockwise and the ratchet head kept hitting a steel pipe, not allowing full slack in the belt. Used a ring wrench and it solved the issue. Thanks again for the great video!
Just an FYI. I was able to get at and loosen the plenum clamps fairly easily with a socket on an extension so taking the coil cover off is unnecessary to get the plenum off.
Thanks for the video. I followed it to get access to the secondary air pump and replace it.
Awesome video, it really helped. Thank you for posting it! :)
On the way in, you didn't mention the cover over the tensioner bolt. I expected an offset bolt on the tensioner frame; turns out you have to remove the cap and just pull the tensioner itself with that 14mm wrench. You also don't mention any tricks for getting the water pump pulley out. it's atight fight, both coming off or going on. Any tricks for getting it off and on?
tensioner cap is an omission, apologies -- I have worked on BMWs with those caps dating back to 1991 so I know exactly what they are and how to deal with them (usually they're missing) but yes good point. pry under the lip with a flat blade screw driver and it pops right off.
the pulley wasn't all that tight a fit here, came right off and popped right out with the belt off to the side.
Im having trouble fitting the waterpump pulley back on the waterpump any ideas ? See like the Ps/ac belt is in the way of fitting backon
no trick to it :/
Hey I know its a old vid, would you happen to know what the torque is for screwing down the 3 bolts for the thermostat as one of mine broke while trying to tighten! Thanks 👍
aluminum housing and steel bolt. I'd say no more than 8 foot pounds should really be needed.
I dont have the spec though
Water pump has no gasket?
Great video. I just hit 60k, suggestions on real (vs dealer recommended) service to do then?
capybaras honestly, I'd probably think about water pump, tStat, valve cover gaskets and checking rod bearing wear.
Hey MplsBav, for the purpose of this video. what tightening torque for the 8 hoses clamps below the air box?
Kevin Tran maybe like 5 in/lb
Aye i need my water pump changed on my e93 m3 how much u think is a fair price someone charges me? Ofc ill buy the part but the labor how much anyone ? Need help
Just discovered your channel great video!
Not sure if there is anything wrong let's see what you think?
Just want to make sure my car doesn't have issues, after driving for 20 minutes the temp gauge gets up to just under half(the only way it will get to the half mark is when I'm in traffic for a bit)
I know some what cooler is better but wondering if that is normal, or do I need to change my thermostat?
2011 E92 M3 102,000 kms on it
Thanks
they'll throw a thermostat under threshold code usually. the E90s temp gauge is also oil, not water IIRC
Any plans on doing another diy for a common issue with the e92 m3, replacing the throttle body actuator? Thanks!
Jimmy H I plan on doing a DIY for every maintenance item this car comes in needing. so far the throttle actuator is original and still functioning properly.
what's the labor time involved from start to finish? Thanks
Will the increased emissions code go away on its own after this repair? Or will it still need cleared manually?
YMMV, but I'm guessing this wont change the emissions code
Are there any bolts that needs to be tightened to a specifc torque value?
technically all of them should be, but just be sensible and it shouldn't be a problem. typically joining torque does not have to be very much.
@Ovalbore If I'm just replacing the thermostat, do I need to drain the coolant?
you'll lose a little, but not much. should be fine without draining it.
Will it need to be topped off?
Really great video. Thanks for making this. How long did this take you to do? How long do you anticipate it would take a novice? I thought this would be a harder task to perform on the S65 but this video makes it seem very simple.
I think this took me just over an hour start to finish. novice with inadequate tools, likely 4 hours.
it's very straight forward. Much easier in my opinion than a 328i or 335i water pump.
That's about what I was guessing for a novice. Very cool. It seems like the alternator is pretty accessible while doing this job. Do you think replacing that while you're in there would take much additional time?
pretty much the only part that's easier when doing this for the alt is the belt is off and the air box is out. I personally wouldn't do it unless you know it's about at the end of its life. would not be hard to do after the fact.
Makes sense. The plenum doesn't look like it needs to be off and the airbox is a piece of cake to remove.
I just bought my car and it's about to roll over 62k miles so I'm trying to take care of these things before they fail :) Especially the water pump. It's nice to see that the M3 didn't get the electric pump used in the series cars.
correct
Still running?
Hey man, I'm planning to pick up a 08 e93 M3 in a few days with 34k miles from the dealer. Do you recommend getting anything checked out or replaced?
+Thomas Lee 34k is pretty darn new. only stuff I would do is brake fluid and little time sensitive things like that, as well as general inspection stuff. you've got a while till' you have to worry about anything serious.
@@OvalboreCars I don't know... I have a 2013 E92 M3 and it only has 28K miles on it. My oil level reading as too high all the sudden after 6 months of driving without issue. I found out i have a code P0128 Coolant Thermostat Malfunction from the OBD2 reader. Now I want to know if it's necessary to change the water pump if i decide to change the thermostat? Great video btw.
how do you get out the thermostat out of the housing ?
just falls out typically. might have to smack it a little.
Hi: Thanks for this info: is this water pump and thermostat are the one that cause the Transmission to overheat? last night my M3 dash said " Transmission overheat" but this morning it's not there anymore, and car drive normal. so dose that mean my transmission is still o.k? I hope it;s not transmission . please reply....Thanks
I had the Transmission overheat message on my 2011 M3, the dealer said they needed to update the Transmission software to correct the problem, wanted $200 for that job.
wow That's good news that nothing wrong with my transmission otherwise it's expensive,,,,,,,But $200 for update is rip off... This happen last year too around December and it's software update stuff. at least we have a nice fun car to drive everyday,,,,,,I got 51,000 miles now !
Hello, very good friend, the video. I want to ask you a technical question. a month ago I bought a M3 E92 manual transmission year 2009 it has a slight vibration when I accelerate it stopped in neutral between 1200 and 1500 RPM. It feels like the engine is out of balance, is that normal? do you know what the problem would be?
tied to RPM specifically? pressure plate. otherwise if its tied to that RPM in just one gear, flex disc.
@@OvalboreCars Hello, thanks for answering.
Linked specifically to RPM in motion the vibration is not detected. and at RPM greater than 2000 it evens out the gear.
do you happen to have a diy on how to drain the coolant?
no, there is a bolt in the block to do that, but I prefer just dumping it. much faster.
Very nice DIY info!!! on what mileage this is needed to be done? and what about rod bearings n oil pump?
this car had 121K. it was overdue. I'd say 80K mile interval is tops for safety.
rod bearings, do oil analysis and check for copper tracing.
never heard of oil pump issues.
+Camper1234599 thx for the advice, I changed rod bearings at 103000km (65k miles) cilinder 6 and 7 where hitting copper already...I also changed the thermostat but did not do the water pump or do you really recommend this? regards, if you want a picture of rod bearings send me ur email on pm?
+eraserke the pump generally fails before the thermostat.
I don't need the photos, no. I have experienced rod bearing premature wear with the S54, S65, S85 and S62.
can you do a video on just a coolant flush on an E9X bmw m3? RUclips doesnt seem to have just that. Thanks.
I don't have an E90 M3 around right now.
drain radiator, drain block, refill and bleed. should be pretty easy.
How many litres required with distilled water?
121k wowzers.....bravo
and that was 4 years ago!
If you don’t mind me asking, do you still have it and how many are on it now.
Wish I could tell ya! customer car and he sold it shortly thereafter. It's still around. guessing its in the mid 140s now.
how do you know/identify there is an air gap? thanks.
cold vents in the car with heater on
hmm what does that mean? Im starting to elarn a bit abt the insides, own an m3 but I basically knows nothing abt the mechanical stuffs. Plus Im from Malaysia and these cars does not have heater, it uses aircond.
What are the symptoms of water pump going bad? I replaced my oil filter housing and now only 1 gallon of water and 1 gallon of coolant goes in and reservoir fills up. Could that be an issue?
Da Rt seepage, excessive noise or play from bearings and or improper cooling at low engine speeds
I have notice unique noise since I putted everything back together. Sort of louder ticking noise. Temperature is good. Ive drove it and gave it a gas and temperature not rising up or overheating. And its all with 1 gallon of each. I heard that those water pumps go out in open position so it technically circulates coolant. What do you think?
Da Rt ticking isn't related to cooling system unless it's a BAD bearing issue. valve adjustment?
Here is threat I posted. Just to give an idea whats going on.
Hello. So Ive finally replaced oil filter housing on my M3. When I did such job I took off pretty much everything, radiator, fan, most of the pulleys, vibration damper and housing itself. My car was sitting for almost 2 months and 1 month with all those stuff out due to fact that I had to order some parts as I was going along with repairs. As I was working on it and installing new oil filter housing I have started the car without alternator plugged In a few times(no belts, no coolant, just a quick 2 min run to see oil leaks). Housing that I have used is from 2011 M3 with a different pulley. Some people say that belt needs to be rerouted and go over power steering but that will make it spin in a different direction, I left it the way it was before. Also 2008 year was making both pulley types so its not an issue. So as I was putting everything back together it didn't have enough power to crank the engine with all the belts so I jump started with my friends car. So when everything was back together now I have check engine light on, as well as some emission problem on a screen. On top of that only 1 GALLON OF COOLANT AND 1 GALLON OF distilled water goes in before reservoir tops off. I've let car warm up for good 15 minutes as well driving it for another 5 with giving it some good power and its not overheating but level is not dropping as well? Can someone please explain what is going on? I know I shouldn't of not started the car without alternator but I wasn't trying to put everything together just to see if housing still leaks. It is not covered under warranty, car has about 87kkk miles on it. I have to do everything myself.
Suddenly I realized... I should just leave it to the dealership service center. 😔 It's too complicated for me. But the oil change DIY video was simple enough.
Nah this is pretty easy
Torque spec for waterpump and thermostat?
one ugga dugga!
honestly use a 1/4" ratchet and snug that bad boy down. if you don't have a decent sense of torque for a fastener, use some blue threadlock.
outside of wheels, internal engine parts, and clutch parts, I do not use a torque wrench.
Would alternator be accessed same way under air box? Any tips? Great vid
its been a long time, but yes I believe alt requires upper hose removal but thats about it
How many miles should you do your water pump and thermostat?
60,000 miles is what I'd personally do, but this one had 120,000 on original pump and thermostat.
Thank you sir.
Is there any manual for service interval spark plugs every 30k ext
there should be a maintenance schedule in the owners' manual I believe?
You do not need to remove the oil separators to remove the plenum....
loosening them is imperative however and that's what's illustrated here.
I did it with Avasva plans.
Hey man, can you do some "engine buyers guide" or something like tha on this car?
I'm going to pick up one of these, but i gotta be honest, i have no fucking clue what to look for on a used car like this.. I could really use some video material that's gonna help me out before buying one of these :)
+NobodyCares
This was a friend's car I was doing service on at the time -- I'd be happy to do another video with the common things to look for but would be a stupid video without an E90 M3 in front of me.
That being said the PPI is king on these cars. the main failures I note are as follows:
1.) engine rod bearings. you can often times get oil analysis from a company like Blackstone Laboratories in IN (not a paid sponsor, I just love their service) to pick up on high lead and brass levels in the oil before major damage is done. this should be noted in service history if it has been done prior to you buying the car, if not -- I strongly suggest at VERY least getting a drained oil sample from the car at time of PPI, sending it in and checking metals levels in the oil, if not -- budget to have the bearings replaced.
2.) throttle actuators. the electric fiddly bit that actually opens and closes the throttle bodies on the S65 engine proportionate to your foot potentiometer (throttle pedal)
3.) clutch release bearings. I have seen this a few times on 2008 cars only. you'll notice a strange clutch take up. requires clutch kit replacement.
I would also as a rule avoid the DCT. get a 6 speed. it'll hold value better and will not cost you basically anything to run. plus side is the car is 200 lbs lighter without the DCT.
Strongly suggest the 4 door sedan as well. more rigid body shell and the interior will hold up to the test of time better than the 2 door. (just how it has always been on the 3 series).
less common issues will ALL be brought to light by a PPI. neglected services on trans and diff oils, potential structural issues on subframes from cars that have been hustled on the track a lot, etc.
check brake rotors and pads. Pads are cheap but a set of rotors for this car is $1,000-$1,200+
😳😳😳
surprised its a belt driven pump and not electric like other new BMWs
even the F80 M3 has a mechanical water pump. was very surprised to see.
don't quote me on this, but EVERY 'S' engine has a mechanical water pump to date.
The tensioner step is very confusing, you oversimplify it. There is a cover on the tensioner pulley that needs to be removed in order to put a socket on it
It's definitely not an over simplification. very typical to have a cover on any vehicle's tensioner wheel.
This isn't a good 'first' service job for a shade tree at home mechanic, so it's fair to make the assumption and move around it for the sake of time.
It's very typical to have screws and bolts on a car too, so can just skip the entire DIY altogether. Given that the part of the video where you attempt to show where the tensioner is, is not clear. Skipping the step of removing a part on that tensioner is oversimplifying...
I think your channel is great. I have a weird whine coming from my e90, I suspect it to be my water pump pulley, BMW cannot figure it out. Can you check on the video on my channel and provide me you inputs. Thanks
definitely a bearing in the belt drive somewhere. probable culprits:
1.) main belt tensioner
2.) alternator
Thanks for the reply. Do you think it could possibly be the water pump pulley also? That pulley doesn't look like it has any bearings, but I threw some water in it while it was running and the squeal temp stopped. When you say alternator do you mean the pulley? Thanks
I'm guessing you're not in the states, so I don't know what engine you have -- no US market E90 except the M3 and the 335D have a mechanical water pump driven by the belt. it is possible the bearings in your water pump (if mechanically driven) are going bad as well.
step 1 is pull the belt off when engine is cold and spin all of the idlers and accessories, feel for notches, difficulty turning, play etc.
I'm in the states, my M3 is a 2008 e90 it has a mechanical pump. I can't figure out why the squeal would go away when I would spray water on the pulley. I checked the bolts on the water pump pulley.They weren't lose but felt lightly torqued. So I tightened them up. Squeal came back quieter the next day. Sprayed WD40 on the bolts with it running and in the center of the pulley. Squeal stopped for about two seconds and then came back.
ah, didn't sound like an S65. my vote is tensioner/idler. water will
either make the slip stop or increase, both of which will eliminate the
slip noise.
That plastic impeller though
Composite, BMW is adamant to tell you.
the engine bay is so fucking stuffed man im dizzzzzzzy
plastic water pump? What BMW thinking
they stopped making plastic ones in 1995, but 1996+ are Composite. still not great. not really all that many failures with the impellers anymore though like the plastic ones used to. most failures I see are bearing related.
BMWs throw their water pumps and cooling parts way too quickly. I bet this car doesn't even have 50k on it. I just changed the mechanical water pump on my Uncle's S55 AMG W220 but the car has 295,000kms on it. I reused the thermostat since it was replaced not too long ago. Plastic electric water pumps and plastic cooling pipes aren't a good idea especially when it needs to cool such a sweet high revving motor like this one.
121K miles on this M. pump was still solid, replaced preventatively.
Camper1234599 Ohhh. Yeah since you're in there might as well replace anything that could potentially fail.
Your videos his bad i don’t get why you would skip through and not let us see how you do it it’s like me doing it on my own like record how you did it
odd, seems thousands of others havent had a single problem following this FREE loose guideline which covers every step necessary to do the job. Maybe it's not me, it's you.