That is likely a .380 or 9mm, which are the same diameter. That's the type of bullet found in semi automatic pistols. I'm leaning toward .380 because of low penetration, being the weaker load. A .357magnum would have gone through the game, the trailer walls, and ended up outside the trailer and a .38 special would have likely come through the back glass. I shoot all 4 calibers, as well as reload them. I am pretty familiar with what each is capable of.
I concur. I'll add that revolver ammo (the .38spl and .357mag) will often show a lot of lead, due to the "forcing cone" component of a revolver, and the cheapest ammo for those is typically all lead, whereas .380 and 9mm are made for "auto-loading pistols", and so their cheapest ammo generally is just like what is pictured. A smooth curve, fully jacketed in copper, so that it feeds from a magazine easier. Bullets for all of these calibers are the same diameter, but the various cartridges offer more powder capacity. .357 magnum would likely have a longer/heavier bullet, as that cartridge holds the most powder of the group to move it. I suspect that the .380 would generally use a smaller bullet than this one, however, because it has the smallest cartridge capacity. From the picture, I'd guess that this is a typical Remington 115grain 9mm FMJ Target round, which still fits the "redneck" classification, as using target ammo in a firearm intended for protection (usually due to the reduced cost), is peak redneck (also, gangster, going on crime stats). I've seen cheap 9mm ammo do all sorts of disappointing under-penetrations, especially from target ammo. One cause of this can be a barrel that is excessively worn, or otherwise not tightly sealing the gas, allowing the projectile to leave the barrel without developing sufficient pressure. The very small area on the bullet in the video shows a small contact area with the barrel rifling, and that rifling is not deeply pressed into the copper jacket at all. I think the bullet in the video didn't break the glass of the machine, because it didn't have much power to begin with (target ammo), and the barrel didn't have a good enough seal to make use of the powder it did have.
A .38 and a .357 have identical diameters (weird, I know). A .357 slug is slightly longer than the .38 and .357 is much more powerful. You can fire .38s out of a .357 as many times as you want, but if you dare to fire a .357 round out of a .38 you're gonna have a bad day! Thanks for another great video, Ron. I love 'em all!
I don't think it is either .38 special or .357. If it was it would have blown through the backglass. I would go with a .380 not a lot of powder charge.
@@patrickradcliffe3837 I don’t disagree. That said. We don’t know what that round went though before it hit the back of the back box. Bubba may have been a block away when he fired, lol.
Great work …. So glad you’re keeping the incandescent globes. …. Personally I think that ems and early solid state machines look awful with leds. …. The old globes have a warmth and brightness to them that the leds simply do not have. I’m hoping that the current obsession with leds is just a passing fad or novelty. What a great restoration this machine is. Wow! Ronnie rocks.
It’s not a passing fad unfortunately. Incandescent bulbs are now firmly obsolete, they will gradually all be replaced with LED’s the same way vacuum tubes were all eventually replaced by solid-state transistors. They’re cheaper, smaller, more efficient, and more reliable. It’d be nice if someone offered a compatible LED that better matched the color temperature of #47 bulbs. Whoever does first is going to make a killing.
If you talk to guitar players you will find that 9/10 players still ONLY buy amps with vacuum tubes. Since they first came into being, amp manufacturers have been trying to convince folks that transistors are the go …. except after 40 or more years the bottom line is a valve amp still shines head and shoulders above transistor amps. It was that way in 1977 …. and it’s still that way today. Vacuum tubes are not obsolete…. and either are incandescent globes. I get the idea of what you’re saying, but I don’t think you’re right. …. the last time I could REALLY see the contacts inside a machine clearly and easily was when I had 2 X 60watt incandescent globes on a single stand. One globe was about 20cm higher on the stand than the other. I could move them to point where I wanted them to. It was great. …. I could see stuff that I haven’t been able to since I’ve been using leds. They’re ok for some things, but if you want your pinball to look really good, then 47s incandescent are unbeatable.
@@markjackson1444 Great point. I take back what I said. I only have tube amps and have time and again been let down with solid state amps. I actually use tube state instruments for work (photomultipliers) so I know very well how awesome vacuum tubes can be. “Obsolete” is definitely the wrong word.
A friend of mine who also has pinball machines a few years ago bought a Bally Centaur II which also had a case where someone shoot with pistol thru the head and broke Backglass and Solenoid driver board also 😁
I'm going with 9mm as I think a .357 or even a .38 would have blown right "through armor. Then the machine, the wall, then a tree outside..." 2 bonus points for the movie reference
Also while not definitive, .357 and .38 special was frequenrly if not mostly wadcutter (flat nosed) lead rather than ball (pointy) full metal jacket back in the 90s.
Got a 79 Nugent at my sisters house waiting to be rescued. Hard part is talking someone with a truck to drive 80 miles and help me pull it out of her basement. Two have back pedaled already.
You are correct 9mm = .354mm. Anyhow, great story with this machine. As an old school trek fan its great to see this one coming back to life. That stencil work is sweet. That machine deserves it, the one bit extra.
The Vampire Tools solder sucker is perfect for single or even double sided boards like majority of ones you work on. No need to spend the extra money on an automated tool if what you have works for you, which it obviously does. For me, I work on multi-layer boards, and the Hako (or clone) works best for me. That is best for me and what I do, but I would not say that is best for everyone. It all depends what you work on. You do you, Ron. Don't worry what others say. :)
Oh, well. I love my Hakko desoldering vacuum tool. But I have one of the good Vampire hand desoldering tools too. I also cut the leads flush with the chip and then use needle nose plyers to remove the legs.
JOES CLASSIC< What other transistor part numbers can you use for replacements for the lamp transistors and the solenoid FET and driver transistors? I know you used the 2N5064 as replacements for the 2N5060 which I'm guessing the 5064 have the same beta gain so it might make the lamps more brighter since they are driving more current to them?
Joe I love your videos. It would be siginifcantly helpful if you could use some additional lighting for shots inside cabinets and backboards. Such fun content!
I recently got another camera so the videos will be brighter down the road. The main thing with this particular camera was I had to have it on manual settings for several things and had to manually set the brightness, I got a different camera that's just on full auto so people will stop complaining about everything from focus to brightness to shakiness and all the other things I don't do perfect enough
Based on the damage, or lack there of, my guess is that pinball machine received the bullet after it ricochet off something else. Just a guess, but a direct impact from any caliber would have gone all the way through and broke the glass.
Customer: "This light isn't working, is the light bulb just burned out?" Ron: "No. It was shot!" Is this the first machine that's come in your shop with a G.S.W.?
I'm wondering if they meant to shoot the machine or was someone outside doing some plinking and it went through the trailer into the machine. I would think if they meant to shoot the machine they would have shot it more than once. Glad the machine is able to be saved though can't wait to see it in action.
I think that might be the dirty secret, they may have shot through the window or something and that's why it didn't damage the machine more.... it had already gone through a window, or the siding, then the back, then the plate, then the lamp socket. Like you said, if they were standing right behind it, they probably would have shot it more than once. They may have shot the trailer 10 times and only one bullet hit the pinball machine....
A .357 bullet is almost the same diameter as a 9mm, .357 inches converts to 9.0678 mm. But it's the shape that give it away as a 9mm, .357 bullets are flatter on top.
Thanks for the video=Moar pinball Try not to short that lightboard chip out especially since bullets don't make very good light globes lol as I reckon the bullet broke that chip when it landed in the light socket after it came in from outside the caravan:) Either that or Bubba was a coward and shot it in the back!
I’m glad you like your solder sucker. I bought the same one and is junk imho. The tip plugs after one draw and has to be cleaned each time. So if you really like it show it removing solder from more than one pin, not just the last one. Maybe I’m doing it wrong and we would all learn from your expertise.
@@LyonsArcade Don’t get me wrong Ron you do some really great work but when you go into infomercial mode and start steering people to your online store then be prepared for feedback on what you recommend, whether good or bad.
It might have been shot though the trailer cause the bullet appears to be a .45 they have a pointy tip whereas the others are flatter. Plus, with the machine against the wall would require ole bubba to move it to shoot it more likely he just shot at the trailer or was target shooting near and the round flew through the air towards it.
That's a 9mm sent many of them down range and loaded a few thousand back in the day. Great video as usual. One of these days I'm going to get that Vampire Solder (with the 'l') sucker.
@5:28 It aint that bad, if i write something down in a hurry others need to have a Palaeog with them. I have my moments when i can't read my own writings :P
I've never done it, but from what I understand regular LED's won't work right in a Bally because they'll flicker a lot, you have to either add a resistor to each socket, or change the board to a new one (that adds the resistor to the lines on the board). I believe there are also special super-duper LED's you can use in it without replacing the board (that probably have the resistor internal).... but double check the latest because that was what I heard like 10 years ago!
@@LyonsArcade From what I've gleaned, there's three options... 1 buy the Alltec board 2 put resistors on affected lamps. 3 kit has daughter/ piggyback boards(3) with resistors . I'm thinking, not a lot of flashing on early solid states, may not notice. Not even sure if I'll like them. One cool thing I seen , black light leds and glow in the dark rubbers. That would look sweet on the right machine.
That tape measure looks so weird to someone used to metric. I was like, those cms look big, and why are there two of them together. Then I guess they were just half inches.
welp, had me a nice little writeup of different bullet diameters... and it seems to have unposted itself. guess all i can do is ask for a caliper reading across the least deformed cross section XD
"My buddy's late uncle (who owned this pinball machine) was a redneck!" Oh, he was a Klingon, then! Romulans don't shoot things with guns. They would have used a crossbow!
357 is calibre. The famous 357 magnum ___shoots through cars____refers to long case (magnum )rounds. Carrying extra bang mix and heavier lead lumps hence higher "stopping" power. But a 357 lump on short cased rounds is less than a 38 short.
Liked the video for the restoration and the gun talk... money's not everything, youtube shouldn't control what you say even if they write your paychecks.
I’d say that is a .45 ACP from a 1911 - main reason I say that is a .357 would likely blow the whole way through, but a .45 is a big, slow, heavy bullet that doesn’t penetrate very well. Also, Dirty Harry carried a .44 Magnum
.45 are designed to be stoppers. They slam into the target with massive amounts of kinetic energy. The wood damage would have been far worse if it was a .45 that hit it.
@@katenunyabizness9221 no. they don't. thats an old wives tale. they move infinitely slower compared to the hotter rounds. but the shockwaves of actual kinetic energy are about the same due to how the penetration happens. faster bullets tend to go through imparting less of the energy they have (but around the same amount as the 45acp) to the impacted thing, while more often than not 45acp doesn't go completely through, thus expending all the energy. what _stops_ a target shot with 45acp is the shock (should it actually get that far) of two factors; the temporary wound cavity (which some people say doesn't happen, in spite of literal video proof it does with slower rounds[e.g. non-rifle]), and the permanent crush cavity [aka the full path of the bullet] under certain circumstances you get the body going into shock from these events happening.
.45 would have gone through. 100% There are plenty of videos of penetrarion through hard objects and given equal kinetic energy, mass wins over velocity ever time. Unless I've gone insane which is entirely possible. 🤔
@@OhRonaldo gotta take into account wood density from then vs now. grains were tighter and wood was generally 'tougher' back when, while a lot of wood harvested today is usually looser grain patterns because its younger. younger tree samples would almost certainly provide less drag on a bullet, while tighter grain would provide more friction. and as i tried to explain in a comment that yt seems to have nuked, there could have just been something else between shooter and machine at the time.
i would bet on .45 ACP just from the shape... .357, .38, .45 LC all tend to have flat-nosed bullets. Other best bet is 9mm, but it looks a bit too girthy. Hard to tell with the deformation anyhow. Both of those could also easily be stopped by some plywood and sheet metal, .357 on the other hand, unless he was using real wimp-spec loads, would've caused a lot more carnage. "Two world wars! Didn't make 'em in 46!" -Bubba, probably
Speaking from no knoknowledge at all...don't all high street stores in America sell guns n ammo So if Joes arcade itself doesn't, then your neighboring store to the left or right or possibly both will. So pop next-door and ask? They will be sure to know ;)
there's a place down the street that has alllll ya want. Of course it's legal to just buy one from anybody pretty much, so you could just stop a random passerby and buy one of his :)
+William Sudbrink, writes _"I'm surprised Bubba spent the money for copper jacketed..."_ You're assuming the bullets were traveling away from Budda, when they could just as easily been traveling towards him. Ron did say Bubba's not with us anymore…
sol·der [ˈsädər] NOUN a low-melting alloy, especially one based on lead and tin or (for higher temperatures) on brass or silver, used for joining less fusible metals: "remove the fitting using a blowtorch to melt the solder" · [more] VERB join with solder: "the wires to this clip are soldered to the circuit board" LOL! I Googled it! It's sader! WE are right sir! Great video!
Lets face it. Americans don't speak English. ;) In English it's [ sɒldə ], in American it's [ sɑdər ]. So... Please just be you. We Dutch say Soldeer or just Tin. :p
Well...put the calipers on it for the bullet diameter and then weigh it. Unless you've got a proper reloading scale that uses grains, you'll have to convert say grams to grains. The bullet weight with the diameter will narrow it down.
This is still a strange Star Trek product. The art is a mish-mash of the Motion Picture/1979 (clearly TMP-style uniforms, Lt. Ilia/"bald chick" is in the background) and the Classic 1960s TV series. The Enterprise is clearly the 1960s version and NOT the TMP Refit with the rectangular warp nacelles and angled back support struts for the nacelles. It's still a nice-looking machine but the art style is weird. They couldn't decide on the art style or didn't have access to the final TMP designs and movie stills!
It's the latter. They didn't have the Star Trek: TMP art when they started designing it, and the playfield and the early production models all have Star Trek Original Series art. A little way into production, they modified the backglass art to make the costumes and the Enterprise look like the ones in the movie, and they changed out the plastics, but they didn't change the playfield. At the ElectroMagnetic Pinball Museum in Pawtucket, RI, they have several Bally Star Treks, and one of them has the Original Series backglass and plastics. I prefer this to the second version just because it's much more artistically coherent, and the revised version was so obviously a last-minute revamp of the art.
why in the name of all that is holy do you not just swap out 40 year old parts for new? You spend tons of hours farting around with diagnosing and testing what is wrong, then you end up fixing a 40 year old part that could possibly fail somewhere else on the part a month later. To swap out a part would have to be cheaper and safer down the road, instead of spending so much time polishing a 40 turd. I was a Ford mechanic for 30 years and rebuild old parts far far less than putting in a new or remanufactured part. Maybe I'm missing something since I know next to nothing about pinball games other than what I've learned for you. Having said all that I do really enjoy your videos.
@@LyonsArcade I expected a little better answer than that since I think my question was a valid one. But I suppose I'm just another viewer who should just shut up and enjoy the show. I really was curious as to the reasons for the methods you choose in your repair procedure. In my world of auto repair the last thing you want is a customer comeback because you didn't replace an old part with a new one while you were in it. Being payed by flat rate sucks if you have a comeback that you now have to work on for free. Like I said before I do like watching your show and learning from you, but as a person with a mechanical mind I'm just interest why people make the choice's they do when they approach a repair. Sorry if you took offence to my original question. It probably came across as I was attacking you by the way I worded it. Take it easy.
send the bullit to shane as a warning lmao
Hahaha
"Send the bullet as a warning"
You in the Southern Mafia, Joe? 😅
Gee, I should be careful of which videogame restorer I make fun of then!
That is likely a .380 or 9mm, which are the same diameter. That's the type of bullet found in semi automatic pistols. I'm leaning toward .380 because of low penetration, being the weaker load.
A .357magnum would have gone through the game, the trailer walls, and ended up outside the trailer and a .38 special would have likely come through the back glass. I shoot all 4 calibers, as well as reload them. I am pretty familiar with what each is capable of.
I concur. I'll add that revolver ammo (the .38spl and .357mag) will often show a lot of lead, due to the "forcing cone" component of a revolver, and the cheapest ammo for those is typically all lead, whereas .380 and 9mm are made for "auto-loading pistols", and so their cheapest ammo generally is just like what is pictured. A smooth curve, fully jacketed in copper, so that it feeds from a magazine easier. Bullets for all of these calibers are the same diameter, but the various cartridges offer more powder capacity. .357 magnum would likely have a longer/heavier bullet, as that cartridge holds the most powder of the group to move it. I suspect that the .380 would generally use a smaller bullet than this one, however, because it has the smallest cartridge capacity.
From the picture, I'd guess that this is a typical Remington 115grain 9mm FMJ Target round, which still fits the "redneck" classification, as using target ammo in a firearm intended for protection (usually due to the reduced cost), is peak redneck (also, gangster, going on crime stats).
I've seen cheap 9mm ammo do all sorts of disappointing under-penetrations, especially from target ammo. One cause of this can be a barrel that is excessively worn, or otherwise not tightly sealing the gas, allowing the projectile to leave the barrel without developing sufficient pressure. The very small area on the bullet in the video shows a small contact area with the barrel rifling, and that rifling is not deeply pressed into the copper jacket at all.
I think the bullet in the video didn't break the glass of the machine, because it didn't have much power to begin with (target ammo), and the barrel didn't have a good enough seal to make use of the powder it did have.
A .38 and a .357 have identical diameters (weird, I know). A .357 slug is slightly longer than the .38 and .357 is much more powerful. You can fire .38s out of a .357 as many times as you want, but if you dare to fire a .357 round out of a .38 you're gonna have a bad day! Thanks for another great video, Ron. I love 'em all!
Aaaand two minutes after I made this comment you said it yourself. Sorry. I should have been more patient!
I don't think it is either .38 special or .357. If it was it would have blown through the backglass.
I would go with a .380 not a lot of powder charge.
@@patrickradcliffe3837 I don’t disagree. That said. We don’t know what that round went though before it hit the back of the back box. Bubba may have been a block away when he fired, lol.
@@jetlaw_1 good point.
Sweet machine!! You have almost replaced everything! The details are amazing! 👍👍
Ooooooo! The stuff we gotta do pads again! I love em!
They were a gift :)
Great job Ronnie, thanks!
That machine really is beautiful now that it is fully lit. Can't wait to see you start play testing it.
Great work …. So glad you’re keeping the incandescent globes. …. Personally I think that ems and early solid state machines look awful with leds. …. The old globes have a warmth and brightness to them that the leds simply do not have. I’m hoping that the current obsession with leds is just a passing fad or novelty. What a great restoration this machine is. Wow! Ronnie rocks.
I now refer to incandescents as "Real light bulbs" and Led's as Led's. And that's how it's gonna stay, haha
It’s not a passing fad unfortunately. Incandescent bulbs are now firmly obsolete, they will gradually all be replaced with LED’s the same way vacuum tubes were all eventually replaced by solid-state transistors. They’re cheaper, smaller, more efficient, and more reliable. It’d be nice if someone offered a compatible LED that better matched the color temperature of #47 bulbs. Whoever does first is going to make a killing.
If you talk to guitar players you will find that 9/10 players still ONLY buy amps with vacuum tubes. Since they first came into being, amp manufacturers have been trying to convince folks that transistors are the go …. except after 40 or more years the bottom line is a valve amp still shines head and shoulders above transistor amps. It was that way in 1977 …. and it’s still that way today. Vacuum tubes are not obsolete…. and either are incandescent globes. I get the idea of what you’re saying, but I don’t think you’re right. …. the last time I could REALLY see the contacts inside a machine clearly and easily was when I had 2 X 60watt incandescent globes on a single stand. One globe was about 20cm higher on the stand than the other. I could move them to point where I wanted them to. It was great. …. I could see stuff that I haven’t been able to since I’ve been using leds. They’re ok for some things, but if you want your pinball to look really good, then 47s incandescent are unbeatable.
@@markjackson1444 Great point. I take back what I said. I only have tube amps and have time and again been let down with solid state amps. I actually use tube state instruments for work (photomultipliers) so I know very well how awesome vacuum tubes can be. “Obsolete” is definitely the wrong word.
I enjoy your laughter. Thanks for the video.
A friend of mine who also has pinball machines a few years ago bought a Bally Centaur II which also had a case where someone shoot with pistol thru the head and broke Backglass and Solenoid driver board also 😁
I'm going with 9mm as I think a .357 or even a .38 would have blown right "through armor. Then the machine, the wall, then a tree outside..."
2 bonus points for the movie reference
Also while not definitive, .357 and .38 special was frequenrly if not mostly wadcutter (flat nosed) lead rather than ball (pointy) full metal jacket back in the 90s.
It's definitely 9mm or 380.
I'm thinking 9mm as well. As for your movie reference, it sounds like Danny Vermin from Johnny Dangerously.
Have a good one Ron.
Thank you Dano
Got a 79 Nugent at my sisters house waiting to be rescued. Hard part is talking someone with a truck to drive 80 miles and help me pull it out of her basement. Two have back pedaled already.
Take that sucker apart and get a handtruck, you can take it upstairs by yourself if the head and legs are off of it.
You are correct 9mm = .354mm. Anyhow, great story with this machine. As an old school trek fan its great to see this one coming back to life. That stencil work is sweet. That machine deserves it, the one bit extra.
The Vampire Tools solder sucker is perfect for single or even double sided boards like majority of ones you work on. No need to spend the extra money on an automated tool if what you have works for you, which it obviously does. For me, I work on multi-layer boards, and the Hako (or clone) works best for me. That is best for me and what I do, but I would not say that is best for everyone. It all depends what you work on.
You do you, Ron. Don't worry what others say. :)
Oh, well. I love my Hakko desoldering vacuum tool. But I have one of the good Vampire hand desoldering tools too.
I also cut the leads flush with the chip and then use needle nose plyers to remove the legs.
Star Trek Machine,.....Perfekt!!!!😍✌ 👍
Man your handwriting is so easy to read for me.
Could be that some of those black transistors may be a bit leaky if you're getting a reading in both directions you're measuring them in.
JOES CLASSIC< What other transistor part numbers can you use for replacements for the lamp transistors and the solenoid FET and driver transistors? I know you used the 2N5064 as replacements for the 2N5060 which I'm guessing the 5064 have the same beta gain so it might make the lamps more brighter since they are driving more current to them?
I don't suppose that light socket lines up with "Game Over" on the back glass :)
Believe it or not, it hit the "Same Player Shoots Again" light. I am not joking.
Whelp, then it makes absolutely perfect sense why there is only one bullet hole. A truly high caliber pun indeed! 😂
Harry had a 44 magnum
Ahhhh, thank you.
...it's likely a .380ACP or 9mm - .357 would have gone straight through with the powder load, and .380/9mm are common as mud.
Joe I love your videos. It would be siginifcantly helpful if you could use some additional lighting for shots inside cabinets and backboards. Such fun content!
I recently got another camera so the videos will be brighter down the road. The main thing with this particular camera was I had to have it on manual settings for several things and had to manually set the brightness, I got a different camera that's just on full auto so people will stop complaining about everything from focus to brightness to shakiness and all the other things I don't do perfect enough
Should he use LED lights or incandescent?
@@LyonsArcade Come on people!
Joe and Ron are doing a hell'va job.
.380 and 9mm bullet/slug are the same, the diff in the round is a 9mm casing is longer and holds more powder
Based on the damage, or lack there of, my guess is that pinball machine received the bullet after it ricochet off something else. Just a guess, but a direct impact from any caliber would have gone all the way through and broke the glass.
We're thinking maybe they shot from outside, it went through the side of the trailer, then through the Pinball by chance... Thanks for watching Rick!
@@LyonsArcade absolutely! Really enjoying your content. I'm a techy and love watching how others do repair. There's always something to learn!
Wel i have bin in the army for my number in 1976 ( i am dutch) we used the UZI, its a 9mm bullet.
*Notices poster is Dutch
*checks history of world wars
*doesn't find anything involving us in 76
Thank you for your service :)
Customer: "This light isn't working, is the light bulb just burned out?"
Ron: "No. It was shot!"
Is this the first machine that's come in your shop with a G.S.W.?
I'm wondering if they meant to shoot the machine or was someone outside doing some plinking and it went through the trailer into the machine. I would think if they meant to shoot the machine they would have shot it more than once. Glad the machine is able to be saved though can't wait to see it in action.
I think that might be the dirty secret, they may have shot through the window or something and that's why it didn't damage the machine more.... it had already gone through a window, or the siding, then the back, then the plate, then the lamp socket.
Like you said, if they were standing right behind it, they probably would have shot it more than once. They may have shot the trailer 10 times and only one bullet hit the pinball machine....
@@LyonsArcade exactly what I was thinking.
A .357 bullet is almost the same diameter as a 9mm, .357 inches converts to 9.0678 mm.
But it's the shape that give it away as a 9mm, .357 bullets are flatter on top.
Thanks for the video=Moar pinball
Try not to short that lightboard chip out especially since bullets don't make very good light globes lol as I reckon the bullet broke that chip when it landed in the light socket after it came in from outside the caravan:)
Either that or Bubba was a coward and shot it in the back!
I’m glad you like your solder sucker. I bought the same one and is junk imho. The tip plugs after one draw and has to be cleaned each time. So if you really like it show it removing solder from more than one pin, not just the last one. Maybe I’m doing it wrong and we would all learn from your expertise.
Throw it in the trash and never take my opinion on something again obviously I don’t know what I’m taking about
@@LyonsArcade Don’t get me wrong Ron you do some really great work but when you go into infomercial mode and start steering people to your online store then be prepared for feedback on what you recommend, whether good or bad.
Well, at least he didn't use the bullet as a fuse replacement ;)
" I like leaving they as whole as possible" = " I like doing as little work on these as I have to" LOL!
Yeah that's it. I can tell you work for the man
Bubbas got a phaser!
It might have been shot though the trailer cause the bullet appears to be a .45 they have a pointy tip whereas the others are flatter. Plus, with the machine against the wall would require ole bubba to move it to shoot it more likely he just shot at the trailer or was target shooting near and the round flew through the air towards it.
Are you familiar with a product called DeoxIT? It's fantastic for cleaning connectors. I use D5, D100, and Fader D5.
You should mount the bullet under the glass as a mod
Did you check the list twice? :P TBF, Love the work you do :D
That's a 9mm sent many of them down range and loaded a few thousand back in the day.
Great video as usual. One of these days I'm going to get that Vampire Solder (with the 'l') sucker.
The Vampire one is just a rebranded Engineer SS-02. I have one of those plus a modified ZD-915.
Choot it Bubba!!!!..it's a tree shaker!!!
@5:28 It aint that bad, if i write something down in a hurry others need to have a Palaeog with them. I have my moments when i can't read my own writings :P
I see LED's with new MPU. Will LED work with stock MPU? Websites reccomend new boards, is that a thing or they just trying to sell more boards 🤔
I've never done it, but from what I understand regular LED's won't work right in a Bally because they'll flicker a lot, you have to either add a resistor to each socket, or change the board to a new one (that adds the resistor to the lines on the board). I believe there are also special super-duper LED's you can use in it without replacing the board (that probably have the resistor internal).... but double check the latest because that was what I heard like 10 years ago!
@@LyonsArcade
From what I've gleaned, there's three options...
1 buy the Alltec board
2 put resistors on affected lamps.
3 kit has daughter/ piggyback boards(3) with resistors .
I'm thinking, not a lot of flashing on early solid states, may not notice. Not even sure if I'll like them. One cool thing I seen , black light leds and glow in the dark rubbers. That would look sweet on the right machine.
That tape measure looks so weird to someone used to metric. I was like, those cms look big, and why are there two of them together. Then I guess they were just half inches.
When we see a metric meter, we go "Why.... this isn't even divided up very good!" haha
@@LyonsArcade Haha
I'm gonna need a ballistic expert at an upcoming trial,
welp, had me a nice little writeup of different bullet diameters... and it seems to have unposted itself.
guess all i can do is ask for a caliper reading across the least deformed cross section XD
You need to super glue the bullet to the machine soit can remain as part of the games history
I put it with an envelope and a letter explaining it
Could've been Dick Cheney that shot it, mistaking it for a deer 🦌 😆
I still think that might have been on purpose :)
I would go with .380, a .357 or .38special would have blown through the backglass
My initial thought was .32 but .380 would be a contender as well.
"My buddy's late uncle (who owned this pinball machine) was a redneck!"
Oh, he was a Klingon, then!
Romulans don't shoot things with guns. They would have used a crossbow!
3.57. looks like it
I was sure that one of the pins in socket was half broken. 9.55
I live in Denmark. And the sodder sucker, Can unfotunly not delivered to Denmark 😫😫
Man that sucks! See what I did there ? Thank you for watching Brian, we love Denmark!
I seem to remember Dirty Harry using a 44 Magnum revolver in the first Dirty Harry movie.
Take it down to the local pawn shop and let the ol boys in there tell you what it is. I just know it needs to be framed.
9mm is .355" and .38/357 are .357"
Ask Joe what caliber it is.
I'm guessin Bubba was packin a 9
Maybe Troy told him to choot it!!!! 🐊😁
.357 would have went ALL the through... with much damage on the way out.
357 is calibre.
The famous 357 magnum ___shoots through cars____refers to long case (magnum )rounds. Carrying extra bang mix and heavier lead lumps hence higher "stopping" power. But a 357 lump on short cased rounds is less than a 38 short.
I don't know if it translates to monitization or not, but I still got plenty of commercials 😭
And when you buy booze it’s all measured out in liters
just so funny
It looks like a .380. The 9mm would of gone through the glass, unless it went thru the trailer first.
Liked the video for the restoration and the gun talk... money's not everything, youtube shouldn't control what you say even if they write your paychecks.
I’d say that is a .45 ACP from a 1911 - main reason I say that is a .357 would likely blow the whole way through, but a .45 is a big, slow, heavy bullet that doesn’t penetrate very well. Also, Dirty Harry carried a .44 Magnum
.45 are designed to be stoppers. They slam into the target with massive amounts of kinetic energy. The wood damage would have been far worse if it was a .45 that hit it.
6.5" model 29-2, blued steel.
@@katenunyabizness9221 no. they don't. thats an old wives tale. they move infinitely slower compared to the hotter rounds. but the shockwaves of actual kinetic energy are about the same due to how the penetration happens. faster bullets tend to go through imparting less of the energy they have (but around the same amount as the 45acp) to the impacted thing, while more often than not 45acp doesn't go completely through, thus expending all the energy.
what _stops_ a target shot with 45acp is the shock (should it actually get that far) of two factors; the temporary wound cavity (which some people say doesn't happen, in spite of literal video proof it does with slower rounds[e.g. non-rifle]), and the permanent crush cavity [aka the full path of the bullet]
under certain circumstances you get the body going into shock from these events happening.
.45 would have gone through. 100%
There are plenty of videos of penetrarion through hard objects and given equal kinetic energy, mass wins over velocity ever time. Unless I've gone insane which is entirely possible. 🤔
@@OhRonaldo gotta take into account wood density from then vs now. grains were tighter and wood was generally 'tougher' back when, while a lot of wood harvested today is usually looser grain patterns because its younger.
younger tree samples would almost certainly provide less drag on a bullet, while tighter grain would provide more friction.
and as i tried to explain in a comment that yt seems to have nuked, there could have just been something else between shooter and machine at the time.
i would bet on .45 ACP just from the shape... .357, .38, .45 LC all tend to have flat-nosed bullets. Other best bet is 9mm, but it looks a bit too girthy. Hard to tell with the deformation anyhow. Both of those could also easily be stopped by some plywood and sheet metal, .357 on the other hand, unless he was using real wimp-spec loads, would've caused a lot more carnage.
"Two world wars! Didn't make 'em in 46!" -Bubba, probably
I still think he didn't walk around behind the machine to shoot it. I think the machine was just caught in a crossfire.
The weird thing, psychologically, is that he shot it in the back. Doesn't seem like quite the catharsis he would have wanted.
9 mickey mouses equals .354 in freedom units. It's probably a 9mm or .32
Speaking from no knoknowledge at all...don't all high street stores in America sell guns n ammo
So if Joes arcade itself doesn't, then your neighboring store to the left or right or possibly both will.
So pop next-door and ask? They will be sure to know ;)
there's a place down the street that has alllll ya want. Of course it's legal to just buy one from anybody pretty much, so you could just stop a random passerby and buy one of his :)
@@LyonsArcade I wouldn't be surprised. But I meant ask in shop for help in identify calibre
9 mm for sure
Is it me, or is the backbox a lil crooked?
+Nel Rhodes, Il, writes _"s it me, or is the backbox a lil crooked?"_
Give it a break, it's been shot!
Yes that sucker sucks. It works great!!! I"m saying :)
I'm surprised Bubba spent the money for copper jacketed...
+William Sudbrink, writes _"I'm surprised Bubba spent the money for copper jacketed..."_
You're assuming the bullets were traveling away from Budda, when they could just as easily been traveling towards him. Ron did say Bubba's not with us anymore…
9mm is smaller than a 45 cal it's 45 cal probably from a 1911 colt 45
I'm voting for 9mm. The fully jacketed slug is what's pushing me that way. Most cheap 9mm ammo is fully jacketed so that it feeds correctly.
Dirty Harry had a 44 magnum the most powerful handgun in the world
Could be a .32 ACP, would explain why it didn't have enough ass to get thru.
Yodelayheehoo
Hello Lil Everette, how have you been?
It's clearly not large enough to kill a pinball machine :)
Not metric. A 357 slug is .357 diameter in inches.
Exactly
sol·der
[ˈsädər]
NOUN
a low-melting alloy, especially one based on lead and tin or (for higher temperatures) on brass or silver, used for joining less fusible metals:
"remove the fitting using a blowtorch to melt the solder" · [more]
VERB
join with solder:
"the wires to this clip are soldered to the circuit board" LOL! I Googled it! It's sader! WE are right sir! Great video!
They really have no leg to stand on with this one, hahaha
I say it as Soul da...but don't really give a toss how anybody says it
@@naytch2003 I mostly don't care either, it's just good fun!
Lets face it. Americans don't speak English. ;) In English it's [ sɒldə ], in American it's [ sɑdər ]. So... Please just be you. We Dutch say Soldeer or just Tin. :p
thats a 9mm slug
38/357/9mm all roughly the same size. 38/357 measure .357, 9mm/380 measures .355. Dirty Harry carried a .44 magnum. My money is on a 380.
+syshort500, writes _"My money is on a 380."_
Doesn't look short enough to be a .380, my money's on a 9 mm.
@@fred_derf you're right. Looks more like maybe a 9mm or. 38.
Well...put the calipers on it for the bullet diameter and then weigh it. Unless you've got a proper reloading scale that uses grains, you'll have to convert say grams to grains. The bullet weight with the diameter will narrow it down.
I could not find the Amazon link so you lost a few dollars.
It's down in the description under each video, thank you for watching pdp panelman!
Looks like a 38 mm
.45 ACP. Probably used a 1911.
This is still a strange Star Trek product.
The art is a mish-mash of the Motion Picture/1979 (clearly TMP-style uniforms, Lt. Ilia/"bald chick" is in the background) and the Classic 1960s TV series. The Enterprise is clearly the 1960s version and NOT the TMP Refit with the rectangular warp nacelles and angled back support struts for the nacelles.
It's still a nice-looking machine but the art style is weird. They couldn't decide on the art style or didn't have access to the final TMP designs and movie stills!
Today's Joke --
You've restored Impulse Power, Scotty, but I need warp drive within a day!
Can you DO THIS, Mr. Scott?
It's the latter. They didn't have the Star Trek: TMP art when they started designing it, and the playfield and the early production models all have Star Trek Original Series art. A little way into production, they modified the backglass art to make the costumes and the Enterprise look like the ones in the movie, and they changed out the plastics, but they didn't change the playfield.
At the ElectroMagnetic Pinball Museum in Pawtucket, RI, they have several Bally Star Treks, and one of them has the Original Series backglass and plastics. I prefer this to the second version just because it's much more artistically coherent, and the revised version was so obviously a last-minute revamp of the art.
why in the name of all that is holy do you not just swap out 40 year old parts for new? You spend tons of hours farting around with diagnosing and testing what is wrong, then you end up fixing a 40 year old part that could possibly fail somewhere else on the part a month later. To swap out a part would have to be cheaper and safer down the road, instead of spending so much time polishing a 40 turd. I was a Ford mechanic for 30 years and rebuild old parts far far less than putting in a new or remanufactured part. Maybe I'm missing something since I know next to nothing about pinball games other than what I've learned for you. Having said all that I do really enjoy your videos.
You'd do it much better Lester, good thing you're not here, I'd be so embarrassed.
@@LyonsArcade I expected a little better answer than that since I think my question was a valid one. But I suppose I'm just another viewer who should just shut up and enjoy the show. I really was curious as to the reasons for the methods you choose in your repair procedure. In my world of auto repair the last thing you want is a customer comeback because you didn't replace an old part with a new one while you were in it. Being payed by flat rate sucks if you have a comeback that you now have to work on for free. Like I said before I do like watching your show and learning from you, but as a person with a mechanical mind I'm just interest why people make the choice's they do when they approach a repair. Sorry if you took offence to my original question. It probably came across as I was attacking you by the way I worded it. Take it easy.
115 gr 9mm