I have this exact model and the USA trains GP7/9. I’m a newbie, can you explain what the radio/transmitter is (make model) and the receiver? what is the sound card and speaker? really appreciate this and would love some help.
John, check out Ring Engineering. The hand held is Railpro's HC-2 and the decoder is RailPro's Module LM-3s-G or their LM-4s-G. I buy my RailPro equipment from RLD Hobbies. If you decide to try installing yourself call Robbie at RLD and he will set you up with everything you need.
Hello this is a shot in the dark lol. Would you happen to have and be able to share an stl file for the battery charge jack in the fan compartment? I like your You Tube video on the install !!!!
Hi Bob! Thanks for writing.. RUclips doesn't do much to let us connect OUTSIDE of youtube.. I do have the file - you can try viewing the SOURCE here: www.tinkercad.com/things/kIhWwWgZlzO-switch-and-charge-jack-plate You MIGHT have to be a tinker cad user to view it? I'm not 100% sure how that works.. Run this through a slicer and add a color change at the lettering layer and it will come out very nicely!
Hi Bob! Thanks for writing! The fans I install fall into two categories, 5volt or 12 volt - to attach them, I purchase either a 5v or 12v "780X" style 3 pin regulator.. I happen to favor the new "switching style", which are more efficient and conserve battery: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cui-inc/V7812-500/1828605 As far as fans go, there is a large range of 5v and 12v fans in the 1" sort of range here as well: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/dc-brushless-fans-bldc/217?s=N4IgjCBcoCwGxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIMADHABwCcdIhVcdYCz1dAzAgLqEADgBcoIAMrCATgEsAdgHMQAX2WEATGXDqAbgAIAJkj0Y5IPsqA Again, this should be EASY - battery to pins 1 and 2, fan to pins 2 and 3, 3 being the red wire or positive.. Pin 2 is common ground.. Pin 1 is raw battery up to 32volts.. Place it AFTER the power switch so that when to turn on, the fan is on full time.. SOMETIMES, depending on the decoder, I will run a small 5volt fan off of the 5volts provided - a railpro decoder has 5 volts available, for instance.. Hope this helps!! Happy training! ;-)
More fans: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/dc-brushless-fans-bldc/217?s=N4IgjCBcpgLFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRACZYBOAVgA4A2EAugdkbuZCvJtYgC6BAA4AXKCADKogE4BLAHYBzEAF8CsJtBDJI6bPiKkQsAAwM6VKlzMMqYJhvNUAzI5A1TsMOU4arDOQuXJ6wNFTwBHw0NC40XC5UrBF%2BIInJ1DbmjJEm2RZZFqzBTnawqba0poW0EKW08EIgYhLS8spqqqpAA
Hi Ricky! Thanks for writing! I used "tinker cad" to create the vents for this project.. www.tinkercad.com/things/atN5HjQDeof-vent-grill-50mm-x-15mm (am I allowed to place URL's here?) In tinker cad, find the thing, select EXPORT and file type. Vents like this are SUPER EASY to create on tinkercad - create a solid slab. create a smaller void slab, tilt it, position, then copy, paste, position, repeat and then group it al.. I don't even save them most of the time they are so easy to craft from scratch.. Good luck!!
Hi Darryl! THanks for writing! I'm lucky to have a surplus shop nearby that I purchase short lengths of "ribbon cable", which is a bunch of 26/28 gauge molded together.. They peel apart nicely! I ALSO made a number of "connections".. To do those, I use "pre-crimped" JST-SH wire from a place called Polulo Robotics? I buy kits of the JST-SH connectors from Amazon.. JST (Japan Solderless Terminal Company) makes MANY ends, so don't just look for "JST", be sure to use the JST-SH term! They are "board to wire" only, so the wire to wire ends are hand made with solder and hot melt glue.. I also purchase, on occasion, "kits" of silicon jacketed wire of various gauges from hobby king - this wire is supper flexible and I use it for main power distribution within the models I do.. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X7BS182 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NWD5NTN www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0731MZCGF hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=silicon Take care and good luck with your models!
Very nice install but I'm pretty sure you're running it backwards. You'll notice an "F" on the long nose end of the locomotive, that's the front. PRR was the same. :)
You know, I had to think about this for a bit.. You could be very right, but the HORN is pointing forwards on the short end, so that's where I put the ditch lights.. It may wall be totally backwards, but the horn was the detail I followed in this case! Thanks so much for the tip! I'll pay way more attention in the future! ;-)
Hi J! Yeah, my videos are admitedly not the best.. Turns out that taking the time to do a "good" video is more diffucult than one could imagine! ;-) The wiring in this particular locomotive simply follows the RailPro manual - I installed lots of "break for service" connectors so I could locate the decoder in the basement, so to speak.. The physical wiring is really just the motors and the LED's doing the lighting. I TOTALLY ABANDONED all stock wire and switch/switchboards. I left the original switch board in place under the cover, but it's just filling the hole is all. I think I used a little 60mmx40mm proto board to build up power distribution.. Just break the various circuits down one at a time and it'll be fine. Thanks for the feedback and in future videos, I'll try and add more electrical detail!
Hello, ... What a great video with RaiPro. To be honest, I’ve planed to do the same with my G-scale Bachmann Spectrum 4-4-0 (radio controlled + battery) Considering that I already have a ESU Loksoud XL V5 with ESU Loksound dual smoke pulsed smoke, what will be the best way to you ? Railpro + LM4S or Airwire T6000 + CONVRTR-60 ? (I want to keep the sound from my ESU Loksound with my dual smoke pulsed unit..) Here is a picture of the settings I thought : i94.servimg.com/u/f94/19/07/38/52/connex10.jpg Thanks for your support... Alexis (from France)
Hello, Alexis! Thanks for writing! I've only every used a Loksound once in a Swiss Rhaetian Railway Ge II because it had the only good electric sound base, but it worked very well.. I had problems with the loco motion with the Loksound, and we had a Airwire G4, so it's quite a mishmash of electronics, but it all seems to work. The Schematic you shared looks just fine and in effect is identical to the GE II shown here: ruclips.net/video/Q6dbXWEs-ns/видео.html I think your plan is sound and should work just fine!
@@mtrcycllvr CVP AIRWIRE, ... Next Blunami (once the 4 amp board will be produced...) Stil thinking about the project. I'll let you know. Many thanks again.
If you have an AirWire handheld throttle then it's a no brainer! The financial savings of using RailPro over CVP's AirWire is that with RailPro's built in sound you don't have the additional cost of a sound decoder.
Кино
Nice video and great installation job of the RailPro module! I look forward to seeing more of your RailpRo projects.
Nice video, I have 4 locomotives converted to Railpro 2 track power 2 battery. I use the computer modual for programing. Great system.
I have this exact model and the USA trains GP7/9. I’m a newbie, can you explain what the radio/transmitter is (make model) and the receiver? what is the sound card and speaker?
really appreciate this and would love some help.
John, check out Ring Engineering. The hand held is Railpro's HC-2 and the decoder is RailPro's Module LM-3s-G or their LM-4s-G. I buy my RailPro equipment from RLD Hobbies. If you decide to try installing yourself call Robbie at RLD and he will set you up with everything you need.
Hello this is a shot in the dark lol. Would you happen to have and be able to share an stl file for the battery charge jack in the fan compartment? I like your You Tube video on the install !!!!
Hi Bob! Thanks for writing.. RUclips doesn't do much to let us connect OUTSIDE of youtube.. I do have the file - you can try viewing the SOURCE here: www.tinkercad.com/things/kIhWwWgZlzO-switch-and-charge-jack-plate
You MIGHT have to be a tinker cad user to view it? I'm not 100% sure how that works.. Run this through a slicer and add a color change at the lettering layer and it will come out very nicely!
Hi one more question please. How did you wire the power for the cooling fan?
Hi Bob! Thanks for writing! The fans I install fall into two categories, 5volt or 12 volt - to attach them, I purchase either a 5v or 12v "780X" style 3 pin regulator.. I happen to favor the new "switching style", which are more efficient and conserve battery: www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cui-inc/V7812-500/1828605
As far as fans go, there is a large range of 5v and 12v fans in the 1" sort of range here as well: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/dc-brushless-fans-bldc/217?s=N4IgjCBcoCwGxVAYygMwIYBsDOBTANCAPZQDaIMADHABwCcdIhVcdYCz1dAzAgLqEADgBcoIAMrCATgEsAdgHMQAX2WEATGXDqAbgAIAJkj0Y5IPsqA
Again, this should be EASY - battery to pins 1 and 2, fan to pins 2 and 3, 3 being the red wire or positive.. Pin 2 is common ground.. Pin 1 is raw battery up to 32volts.. Place it AFTER the power switch so that when to turn on, the fan is on full time..
SOMETIMES, depending on the decoder, I will run a small 5volt fan off of the 5volts provided - a railpro decoder has 5 volts available, for instance..
Hope this helps!! Happy training! ;-)
More fans: www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/dc-brushless-fans-bldc/217?s=N4IgjCBcpgLFoDGUBmBDANgZwKYBoQB7KAbRACZYBOAVgA4A2EAugdkbuZCvJtYgC6BAA4AXKCADKogE4BLAHYBzEAF8CsJtBDJI6bPiKkQsAAwM6VKlzMMqYJhvNUAzI5A1TsMOU4arDOQuXJ6wNFTwBHw0NC40XC5UrBF%2BIInJ1DbmjJEm2RZZFqzBTnawqba0poW0EKW08EIgYhLS8spqqqpAA
are the stl files available for the 3D printed vents
Hi Ricky! Thanks for writing!
I used "tinker cad" to create the vents for this project.. www.tinkercad.com/things/atN5HjQDeof-vent-grill-50mm-x-15mm (am I allowed to place URL's here?) In tinker cad, find the thing, select EXPORT and file type. Vents like this are SUPER EASY to create on tinkercad - create a solid slab. create a smaller void slab, tilt it, position, then copy, paste, position, repeat and then group it al.. I don't even save them most of the time they are so easy to craft from scratch.. Good luck!!
At 8:44 min in, it now sounds like ALCO!
where u get your wires from?
Hi Darryl! THanks for writing! I'm lucky to have a surplus shop nearby that I purchase short lengths of "ribbon cable", which is a bunch of 26/28 gauge molded together.. They peel apart nicely! I ALSO made a number of "connections".. To do those, I use "pre-crimped" JST-SH wire from a place called Polulo Robotics? I buy kits of the JST-SH connectors from Amazon.. JST (Japan Solderless Terminal Company) makes MANY ends, so don't just look for "JST", be sure to use the JST-SH term! They are "board to wire" only, so the wire to wire ends are hand made with solder and hot melt glue.. I also purchase, on occasion, "kits" of silicon jacketed wire of various gauges from hobby king - this wire is supper flexible and I use it for main power distribution within the models I do..
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X7BS182
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NWD5NTN
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0731MZCGF
hobbyking.com/en_us/catalogsearch/result/?q=silicon
Take care and good luck with your models!
Sounds like EMD
Very nice install but I'm pretty sure you're running it backwards. You'll notice an "F" on the long nose end of the locomotive, that's the front. PRR was the same. :)
You know, I had to think about this for a bit.. You could be very right, but the HORN is pointing forwards on the short end, so that's where I put the ditch lights.. It may wall be totally backwards, but the horn was the detail I followed in this case! Thanks so much for the tip! I'll pay way more attention in the future! ;-)
@@mtrcycllvr Just reply your Engineer prefers the field of vision when running short hood forward(problem solved).
The most confusing part is the wiring and you skipped all of that.
Hi J! Yeah, my videos are admitedly not the best.. Turns out that taking the time to do a "good" video is more diffucult than one could imagine! ;-)
The wiring in this particular locomotive simply follows the RailPro manual - I installed lots of "break for service" connectors so I could locate the decoder in the basement, so to speak.. The physical wiring is really just the motors and the LED's doing the lighting. I TOTALLY ABANDONED all stock wire and switch/switchboards. I left the original switch board in place under the cover, but it's just filling the hole is all. I think I used a little 60mmx40mm proto board to build up power distribution.. Just break the various circuits down one at a time and it'll be fine.
Thanks for the feedback and in future videos, I'll try and add more electrical detail!
Hello, ... What a great video with RaiPro. To be honest, I’ve planed to do the same with my G-scale Bachmann Spectrum 4-4-0 (radio controlled + battery)
Considering that I already have a ESU Loksoud XL V5 with ESU Loksound dual smoke pulsed smoke, what will be the best way to you ? Railpro + LM4S or Airwire T6000 + CONVRTR-60 ?
(I want to keep the sound from my ESU Loksound with my dual smoke pulsed unit..)
Here is a picture of the settings I thought :
i94.servimg.com/u/f94/19/07/38/52/connex10.jpg
Thanks for your support...
Alexis (from France)
Hello, Alexis! Thanks for writing! I've only every used a Loksound once in a Swiss Rhaetian Railway Ge II because it had the only good electric sound base, but it worked very well.. I had problems with the loco motion with the Loksound, and we had a Airwire G4, so it's quite a mishmash of electronics, but it all seems to work.
The Schematic you shared looks just fine and in effect is identical to the GE II shown here: ruclips.net/video/Q6dbXWEs-ns/видео.html
I think your plan is sound and should work just fine!
@@mtrcycllvr CVP AIRWIRE, ... Next Blunami (once the 4 amp board will be produced...) Stil thinking about the project. I'll let you know. Many thanks again.
If you have an AirWire handheld throttle then it's a no brainer! The financial savings of using RailPro over CVP's AirWire is that with RailPro's built in sound you don't have the additional cost of a sound decoder.