Thanks for sharing your mod. The 7m is one of my favorite motors and I am putting down 540whp on e85 on mine. I would say for the heater valve to remain closed is a bad for the rear of the cylinder head as well. You still have a bypass for coolant to flow from the back of the cylinder head to the thermostat housing but I used a SharkBite 3/4" fitting and sanded down the two inner ribs so it replaces the heater valve assembly. Now I always have coolant flowing through the heater core (to help keep the coolant flowing just like you stated) and no brittle plastic heater valve to break. Also that EGR cooler in the back of the cylinder head does not help the 6th cylinder either so if you do decide to block the EGR off, make sure you remove the whole EGR cooler and block it off on the back of the cylinder head to help keep the temps down.
@@FayeHadley heh, nice surprise to see you here, been binging your mkiii supra videos in preparation for my own cressida's blown head gasket. aussie 7Ms never had egr equipment, was a pleasant surprise to find in my cressida
At one point there was a passage in the head. That area was prone to cracking and gasket leaks so the engineers closed it up because it has zero effect on cooling but a huge effect on crack prevention.
Love this mod. I remember all the crap the yanks gave Zulu when he did it many years ago, was terrible. I remember discussing it with some so called Aussie 7M guru's and they bagged me for even suggesting it. I think it is a fantastic mod.
Bought a 7mgte with a blown head gasket inside a mk3 supra. Did this mod and rebuilt the head the proper way. 21 pounds of boost and 95k miles after rebuild and it's still pulling strong. A lot of people are quick to judge with these engines.
Rob im with you on Zulu👍 im rebuilding my 7MGE and have done it as well, jesus it just seems commonsense, I have heard it may have been a toyota quick and dirty solution for EGR by making those cylinders hotter?
Well isn't that wierd that Toyota forgot to make that water jacket on the head. I will get this done on my head when it goes for a rebuild and thank you so much for explaining
thanks fer this ill be fixing mine soon ..yes a warped head n just shaving decking it can still have camshafts bound up tight n not turning freely a over head cam head warped needs to be bolted down and heated in a modded bigger burners propane grill n tighten down incrementally so to straighten to a metal thick plate jig to basically bend it back in to shape not many shops have the brains fer this
overbuilt automotive Hey man. If your head is that badly warped that you can’t turn over the cams: You’re at the more extreme side of head warp. I’d say it has gone soft for sure. Scrap that shit before it gives you more problems!
@@SaucyTuRkLeBiRd Yeah I warped one on my 7m heads so bad that the cams would barely turn with a huge adjustable wrench on them. Most of the 7m heads are annealed by now and most people don't realize how soft they are. They go bolt them up and the aluminum squishes on the head giving inproper torque specs and poor sealing. Even with all the 7m's issues, I love the engine.
See, this model makes sense. Now looking at it, I'm surprised I never knew the head didn't have a coolant passage on that side of the head when the block itself has it. Hmmm, I wonder how much material can be removed out of the head itself on that spot to port-match the jacket on the block without risking damage or cracking that part? Shit, if only I had a block I could work on as test mule for this.
No worries man! Heads up: this mod works best woth the heater tap open. So if youre racing your car or its running a little hot open up the heater tap to allow more coolant to flow through the rear of the head :)
Cheers shall do👍 mate another tip / suggestion the oil pump input shaft retention plate is total crap on these cars...hers something I’ve found and intend to use (haven’t as of yet)... technicoracing.com/cs/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=293
@@MultiDesignGuy Interesting man! My friend recently forged his Turbo A motor and I THINK that his car had this exact issue. Long story short if I remember correctly the shaft broke, engine lost oil pressure and then threw a bearing :(. I'll check it out!
and one other thing...have you seen these upgraded oil pumps from drift motion....I bought one (haven’t used it as of yet) ... www.driftmotion.com/Driftmotion-7M-Upgraded-Oil-Pump-p/dm1072.htm.....long live the 7MGE😉😂
Last thing sorry that needle bearing solution while in my eyes definitely better than stock I’d get an engineer view (I’m going to) in as much as they are thinking in the right way by having a bearing there BUT.. is that needle bearing robust enough (my only concern) I’m thinking I will buy it and see if a more substantial bearing could be machined etc etc....I know I will go lie down now 👍😊
Oh yeah thats on the intake side which runs cooler. So to give the block more strength they only machine out half a jacket to give the block some extra bulk. Like this mod - not 100% necessary but I suppose that could make a slight difference cooling efficiency.
Results of this when you get it in running please? My head went to the shop today to get decked so I'm curious if I should get this done while its there before they deck it
Adrian Babson If I can be perfectly honest I don’t think I’ll really see a difference in gauge temps. HOWEVER I do think heat will be more easily dispersed in regards to cyl 5 & especially 6. It will help to keep those 2 cylinders in a ‘normal’ range and also therefore help keep the engine heat more evenly distributed :)
No where lol. It's just a standard sump I painted. The paint I used was 'VHT high temp engine enamel' in gloss white. You can do it yourself at home just make sure you prep the surfaces properly. Alternatively you can powder coat it but honestly you will rarely even see it. I just did mine for shits and gigs :)
Hey man! Specifically whereabouts to you mean? Got a timestamp I can look at. Afaik I blocked all the things I needed to on the block but I cant see anything here:)
@@55degreesnorth7 ohh on the head not the block. That plate on the back of the head is the EGR which JDM 7mgte's do not have. You can google 7m egr blockoff to buy a plate/kit to block off your usdm or audm ones
@@55degreesnorth7 This is kit sold by Arizona Performance 😁 www.a-r-z.com/7M-GTE-EGR-Block-off-Plates-Qty-3-wintegrated-silicone-O-rings-included_p_72.html
Thanks for sharing your mod. The 7m is one of my favorite motors and I am putting down 540whp on e85 on mine. I would say for the heater valve to remain closed is a bad for the rear of the cylinder head as well. You still have a bypass for coolant to flow from the back of the cylinder head to the thermostat housing but I used a SharkBite 3/4" fitting and sanded down the two inner ribs so it replaces the heater valve assembly. Now I always have coolant flowing through the heater core (to help keep the coolant flowing just like you stated) and no brittle plastic heater valve to break.
Also that EGR cooler in the back of the cylinder head does not help the 6th cylinder either so if you do decide to block the EGR off, make sure you remove the whole EGR cooler and block it off on the back of the cylinder head to help keep the temps down.
Shwalker07 Cool man! Actually this is a JDM motor so no egr 😁
@@SaucyTuRkLeBiRd Lucky!!
@@FayeHadley heh, nice surprise to see you here, been binging your mkiii supra videos in preparation for my own cressida's blown head gasket. aussie 7Ms never had egr equipment, was a pleasant surprise to find in my cressida
At one point there was a passage in the head. That area was prone to cracking and gasket leaks so the engineers closed it up because it has zero effect on cooling but a huge effect on crack prevention.
where'd you get this info from? genuinely curious
Love this mod. I remember all the crap the yanks gave Zulu when he did it many years ago, was terrible. I remember discussing it with some so called Aussie 7M guru's and they bagged me for even suggesting it. I think it is a fantastic mod.
Rob W Oh really? It’s not necessary but I’m pretty sure it’ll make a difference!
Bought a 7mgte with a blown head gasket inside a mk3 supra. Did this mod and rebuilt the head the proper way. 21 pounds of boost and 95k miles after rebuild and it's still pulling strong. A lot of people are quick to judge with these engines.
@@Spyda1409 That's so rad to hear, Chris! I am performing this mod to my head right now and I hope to be where you are at someday!!
Rob im with you on Zulu👍
im rebuilding my 7MGE and have done it as well, jesus it just seems commonsense, I have heard it may have been a toyota quick and dirty solution for EGR by making those cylinders hotter?
Nice man! “For you 7M faithfuls out there” haha
Hahahaha gotta have FAITH BROTHER
SaucyTuRkLeBiRd my faith ran out man!
SaucyTuRkLeBiRd yours will be awesome though!
@@YakuzaJZ Yeah we should enjoy it 😁
Well isn't that wierd that Toyota forgot to make that water jacket on the head. I will get this done on my head when it goes for a rebuild and thank you so much for explaining
i’m a bit late to this but thanks for sharing. just bought an a70 and trying to future proof it before i do any fun stuff so this will def help ❤❤
thanks fer this ill be fixing mine soon ..yes a warped head n just shaving decking it can still have camshafts bound up tight n not turning freely a over head cam head warped needs to be bolted down and heated in a modded bigger burners propane grill n tighten down incrementally so to straighten to a metal thick plate jig to basically bend it back in to shape not many shops have the brains fer this
overbuilt automotive Hey man. If your head is that badly warped that you can’t turn over the cams: You’re at the more extreme side of head warp. I’d say it has gone soft for sure. Scrap that shit before it gives you more problems!
@@SaucyTuRkLeBiRd Yeah I warped one on my 7m heads so bad that the cams would barely turn with a huge adjustable wrench on them. Most of the 7m heads are annealed by now and most people don't realize how soft they are. They go bolt them up and the aluminum squishes on the head giving inproper torque specs and poor sealing. Even with all the 7m's issues, I love the engine.
@@mkIIIsupras I agree with you so much! Oh my gosh, I literally am dealing with this right now! ruclips.net/video/HZYa3LmiNiY/видео.html
Yes!! Wow, I had no idea how common this issue is on these engines. I am going through this right now!
See, this model makes sense. Now looking at it, I'm surprised I never knew the head didn't have a coolant passage on that side of the head when the block itself has it. Hmmm, I wonder how much material can be removed out of the head itself on that spot to port-match the jacket on the block without risking damage or cracking that part? Shit, if only I had a block I could work on as test mule for this.
Legend mate about to rebuild my 7MGE on my 1992 cressida greatly appreciate the tip👍
No worries man! Heads up: this mod works best woth the heater tap open. So if youre racing your car or its running a little hot open up the heater tap to allow more coolant to flow through the rear of the head :)
Cheers shall do👍 mate another tip / suggestion the oil pump input shaft retention plate is total crap on these cars...hers something I’ve found and intend to use (haven’t as of yet)... technicoracing.com/cs/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=293
@@MultiDesignGuy Interesting man! My friend recently forged his Turbo A motor and I THINK that his car had this exact issue. Long story short if I remember correctly the shaft broke, engine lost oil pressure and then threw a bearing :(. I'll check it out!
and one other thing...have you seen these upgraded oil pumps from drift motion....I bought one (haven’t used it as of yet) ... www.driftmotion.com/Driftmotion-7M-Upgraded-Oil-Pump-p/dm1072.htm.....long live the 7MGE😉😂
Last thing sorry that needle bearing solution while in my eyes definitely better than stock I’d get an engineer view (I’m going to) in as much as they are thinking in the right way by having a bearing there BUT.. is that needle bearing robust enough (my only concern) I’m thinking I will buy it and see if a more substantial bearing could be machined etc etc....I know I will go lie down now 👍😊
Any update? How's it holding up? 🤙 #savethe7m
Great man! Unfortunately I sold the car though :(
Why would Toyota only cut into the block and not the head?
i did similar to the block on the sides of the bores/in betwen there is a missing holes i drilled all 5 out to match the bead
Oh yeah thats on the intake side which runs cooler. So to give the block more strength they only machine out half a jacket to give the block some extra bulk. Like this mod - not 100% necessary but I suppose that could make a slight difference cooling efficiency.
Results of this when you get it in running please? My head went to the shop today to get decked so I'm curious if I should get this done while its there before they deck it
Adrian Babson If I can be perfectly honest I don’t think I’ll really see a difference in gauge temps. HOWEVER I do think heat will be more easily dispersed in regards to cyl 5 & especially 6. It will help to keep those 2 cylinders in a ‘normal’ range and also therefore help keep the engine heat more evenly distributed :)
seems like a good idea. do you know the reason as to why it wasn't that way from the factory?
No idea man honestly. To reep full benefits you can open your heater tap atleast just a little bit to increase the flow at the rear even more
More videos please
Glad you like it man! More videos soon. Anything in particular you wanna know about?
Nice video man.
Thanks bro!
Hey wheres that oil pan for sale I want one
No where lol. It's just a standard sump I painted. The paint I used was 'VHT high temp engine enamel' in gloss white. You can do it yourself at home just make sure you prep the surfaces properly. Alternatively you can powder coat it but honestly you will rarely even see it. I just did mine for shits and gigs :)
OK, who the hell is Zulu, and when did 'he' come up with this mod ?
Are you a member of the A70 Facebook forums?
Yeah bro! My names Daniel Shamoun
SaucyTuRkLeBiRd what machine shop did you use?
@@craig84downunder Phillip heads.
Are the are studs supposed to be tightened before putting the head on?
Finger tight. So literally just use your hands to tighten them. Allen keys may be needed when removing them :)
I notice you blocked the back port on the block on one side and not the other. Can you tell me about that part too? I am doing this
Hey man! Specifically whereabouts to you mean? Got a timestamp I can look at.
Afaik I blocked all the things I needed to on the block but I cant see anything here:)
@@SaucyTuRkLeBiRd 1 min 52 it starts. to the left of the head as you look at it
@@55degreesnorth7 ohh on the head not the block. That plate on the back of the head is the EGR which JDM 7mgte's do not have. You can google 7m egr blockoff to buy a plate/kit to block off your usdm or audm ones
@@55degreesnorth7 This is kit sold by Arizona Performance 😁
www.a-r-z.com/7M-GTE-EGR-Block-off-Plates-Qty-3-wintegrated-silicone-O-rings-included_p_72.html