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Caterpillar D2
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2021
- Pressing on the steering clutch packs and rounding out the final transmission details!
Memberships available for ad free content, new releases, and behind the scenes footage - / @squatch253
On the subject of lubrication, 21:25 many years ago a UK Steam Railway was bringing a main-line Locomotive back into service. One of the problems they encountered was bearings running hot. On short haul locos the oiling cups were close to the areas that needed lube, (not a problem for access on short stop-start runs), but on a main-line high-speed loco some of the crucial cups were in the cab, with oil lines running the length of the engine, so they could be topped up on long trips, running through a 'wick' in the tube to control the flow. They were using a modern synthetic mix for the wick, where as the original spec was for flax. The other problem was oil: They managed to find an old-timer who had 'purloined' some when the sheds closed decades before. They used that as a sample to get analysed, and then persuaded one of the big oil companies to 'sponsor' them with a one-off batch of it, as it has no modern counterpart! When they replaced the synthetic wick with the flax, and used the correct viscosity oil, it all came good.
Goes to show, a simple drip-feed oiling system had a hell of a lot of science involved in getting it right, and all that knowledge lost with the switch to diesel locomotives :-(.
Actually, the explanation makes perfect sense to me. You have a way of explaining the subject that is easy to understand and follow. I wouldn't be surprised if ACMOC wants you to do educational videos.
As a former high school shop teacher for 35 years, I really really appreciate your level of explanation. You are a great teacher. I remember finding in a cabinet a dusty box full of film strips of how to stuff on engine rebuilds and some early film loop cartridge type educational films. If they were 10% as good as what you do, they might have been useful. So thank you so much. Second comment. I love the fact that she goes back together with her old patina. Have you ever considered spraying it with a matte finish clear in order to keep further rusting at bay but to keep the great look?just wondering, don't know if such even exists. And your timing is exquisite. I am restoring my great uncles 1941 Chevrolet pick up that he bought in 1942. Where the clutch and brake pedals come through the floorboards there is a piece of felt. I have been looking all over for a supply. Thank you McMaster Carr. I am with you a lot of this old engineering is truly art.
B
You can paint over with Penetrol (same as Owatrol) , which is the clear oil that oil paints are made with - it cures to a flexible film and penetrates rust ,sealing it. You can also coat with a lanolin / kerosene solution but this allows dust to stick for a period and needs to recoated every couple of years but it also penetrates the rust and the metal surface. Assuming you can get lanolin. In New Zealand and Australia it is easily purchased - because sheep. Here there are several companies that produce industrial products from lanolin - a wool industry waste product.
Again thanks so very much for all the great instructions and video and knowledge you share with us.
Only Squatch would save the old felt booger for his viewers. I'm, I'm really touched! Enjoying these 30 minute segments. Will be here for the next.
I grew up in a family logging business and spent a fair bit of time as a lad packing tools and parts in and out of the brush, replacing steering clutches, swapping out final drives and doing all of the other sundry repair chores that come with maintaining heavy equipment. Folks watching you do these tear downs and rebuilds at your farm and in the shop don't realize what life is like when these things go south way out in the brush, up on the side of a mountain. In those times you're lucky if you can nurse a wounded piece of equipment back to the landing where you can drive up to it with the tool box. Otherwise, everything you need has to be packed in and out of wherever things failed. I remember laying under cats praying the belly pan wouldn't bury me in the mud when I dropped it and all the times I spent bouncing up and down on 10 feet of pry bars and cheater pipes (or 'swedes' as my dad called them) on those old 3/4 drive sets, breaking nuts and bolts loose, or tightening things back up. I'm pretty sure you have any number of stories about doing this stuff out in the wild, dodging snow balls and laying in the mud. Fun times :)
You've also probably heard the term 'cat doctor' - these were the old stoop shouldered, knuckle-ball mechanics who had been around for decades twisting wrench and doing the hard parts on heavy equipment repair. I do recall a few times we had to bring out one of those legendary characters to do the one-off or specialized stuff we couldn't handle on our own. Gyppo logging at it's finest :)
I really enjoy watching your videos and listening to you explain things as you go - you could go on to become one of those 'cat doctors' yourself :)
Yet another tremendously entertaining/educational video on your Caterpillar D2 #5J1113. I am as much in awe of your teaching and video production/editing skills as your mechanical and engineering prowess (to say nothing of your parts-sleuthing abilities). You might wish to have lived through the 30-60's but all of us here on RUclips are glad you came along when you did.
Great outro. I think it's important to hold on to some items like that, even if they don't have much use anymore because they're replaced with something perhaps purchased, faster, safer, easier, more reliable, etc. It helps me to remember not to forget those memories, not to forget where we came from and how we got here.
I thought I was going to hear it clatter into the scrap pile, in my mind I was screaming "NOOO, Don't do it" Good to see it is now wall decoration.
Squatch, we always drilled a hole in the bottom final drive plugs (should have said steering clutch housing plugs) and installed a large cotter pin that could rattle a bit during operation and thus allow moisture a way out and yet keep “whatever”out. Really enjoy this series as it takes me back to my beginning wrench days in the early 60’s...great memories Thanks 😊
8ns are also known for having a cotter pin through the bell housing hole ..
I've really been enjoying this series, makes me wish I had been old enough to prevent my grandfathers machines from going to auction when he passed. I'd love to be able to keep those old CATS in the family.
suggestion: shop towels ask at the local hospital about the towels they use in surgery after they start to fray they throw them away after final cleaning. i've purchased large bags of them for shop cleanup before ours here are blue in color. usually they're much cheaper than at the department store.
Good idea I usually get rags and towel rags from goodwill. Sometimes they come pre cut into rags other times you gotta cut rags out yourself from whatever free clothes they give
Main clutch lever.. if the other 2 spares are used.. in the wallowed out hole.. use a fine thread solid thread insert so you can thread the link into that insert so instead of it being a threaded stud in a hole its threaded stud in a threaded hole.. its just a thought. if you don't bore the hole in the clutch lever all the way thru and after grinding flat any extended insert you have a semi hidden fix that only people who watch your video will ever know about.
I'VE NEVER BEEN ON A FARM OR ON A TRACTOR. EVEN THOUGH I REALLY, REALLY, REALLY ENJOY WATCHING THESE VIDEOS. YOU R SO ORGANMANIZED AND YOUR EXPLAMICATIONS R SOOOOSZ UNDERSTANDAMABLE. THANK YOU FROM A CITIZEN FROM THE LOWER DENIZENS!
I wish I had the money to buy you the most amazing shop money could buy. And... also enough money so you didn’t have to ever work your daily job again so you could focus on saving these beautiful machines. Wish more people took the care to properly save machines in the way you do. Also... it’s obvious you absolutely LOVE this. That love just makes the restorations that much better. You’re not as likely to skimp on something compared to doing it for profit/to make someone else happy. There are not many people in this world that I would be willing to split lottery winnings with... but ole Squatch would absolutely get a cut.
14:24, I fully expected one of those flashbacks, you so deftly infiltrate...No matter, another good episode in the can. And at 2624 when you held your spring compressor I knew something was up. So glad there's another sentimental old fool in the world. A place of honor is deserved from your cutting torch trophy.! Thanks.
PTO!! PTO!! PTO!!
Grew up on a farm running D5s, I have never seen a PTO in a crawler. I am looking forward to this. :-)
Will I ever rebuild a D2? Highly unlikely! Do I enjoy every video with trivia shared? *Absolutely!*
Learn something new everyday. Ive seen lots of those oil cups. None of them had any felt inside. That makes so much more sense. Thanks.
Really great explanations and video!!
Well Toby the girl is coming together beautifully, when you first said you weren’t going to paint her I was a bit disappointed, but as you go along with the rebuild she is looking fairly spectacular. You sir are a master of your art form, keep it coming, as with Seniors tractor she is just like the Phoenix rising from the ashes. Cheers from the land of biting, stabbing and highly venomous thingys. Also from your good mate.
Tail seat thanks for the information
Amazing how quickly it's going back together (relatively speaking lol) its been fun watching!
Great video as always squatch! I'm addicted to this channel
Awesome explanations of the operation of the Steering Cltuches!!! Looking forward to seeing this all mesh together as you put those lovingly restored pieces of American Iron through it's paces.
Why will flat co-planar surfaces stick together?
Wringability and Gage Blocks
By Dave Friedel, General Manager of Starrett's Webber Gage Division
Wringability is an important property of gage blocks. In fact, gage block specifications recommend replacing blocks that have lost their ability to wring. Not everyone uses gage blocks in wrung combinations, but wringability is a test on the integrity of the surface condition of the gage block. Gage blocks that don’t wring may give erratic and unreliable results.
The fact that gage blocks wring is incorporated into the lengths of the blocks themselves. Gage block length is defined as an interferometric measurement when the gage block is wrung to a flat platen. This includes one wringing film in the defined length of the gage block.
This definition is very useful. When gage blocks are assembled in combinations, no additional correction factor for wringing films needs to be added to the length of the combination.
Wringability itself may be defined as the ability of two surfaces to adhere tightly to each other in the absence of external means. (They are not magnetized or clamped together.)
Wringing requires two smooth, flat surfaces with surface finishes of 1 microinch AA or better. For gage blocks, it becomes difficult to wring surfaces if the flatness starts to exceed 5 microinches. The sources of the forces holding gage blocks together are thought to come from:
1) Air pressure from the surrounding environment as the air is squeezed out when the blocks are slid together.
2) Surface tension from oil that remains on the gage blocks or water vapor from the air acts as a glue to hold them together.
3) When two very flat surfaces are brought into such close contact with each other, this allows an interchange of electrons between the atoms of the separate blocks, which creates an attractive molecular force. (This force will remain even in a vacuum or if no oil or water is present on the blocks.)The last two sources are thought to be the most significant.
Hi Squatch. Just started watching this episode. That clutch pack looks magnificent just placed on the drive shaft. Like large mechanical jewellery. BobUK.
26:38 Hell Yeah!
Hang a big bag of silica gel in each one of those access panels to keep the moisture level down and change them out every so often. 👍😊
My Grandpa use to run a D2 rear mounted seat, he pulled a hand crank pull-grader dragging township roads. He later ran a side seat D4 have some cool pictures of him.
Love the ending a true testament to how ones skills (and tools) mature over the years.
Once again you helped me understand something I had heard decades ago.
Thanks
It looks like that end steel disc is the sacrificial element; that the reason they put that in there was to wear on the removable metal disc with clutch material rather that wear into that pressure plate and have to replace the whole thing when it wears out. Great idea!
Yes, simple once you see it.
I would guess that that’s not the real reason. If you follow the power flow from bevel gear shaft, to clutch hub splines, to steels, to friction discs, all the torque is transmitted through splined components. If the pressure plate isn’t splined to the hub, you would be transmitting torque through the pins that the springs ride on if you didn’t have that last steel.
@@tnbrett1273 Correct. Well spotted.
Oh, one more thing, it is great being a member I love the Members Only stuff, don't even mind the sound of the furnace, my shop doesn't have that luxury.
Another attention holding session,.. Thanks very much!
I've always wondered how track steering operated. Now I know. Thank you!
@@TheAggromonster OK, I'm old skool on this stuff anyway. Saw the great old D8 cats when I was a kid. Hydraulic blade operation was coming out then while a lot of cable operated blades were still in use. The bi-directional control, I'm sure, is much more complex.
Wow man, all the way from Holland, I love this series, your dedication and skill level. Keep on going.
Great video as always, Squatch! I think I'm now both properly addicted to and inspired by your channel... I even accidentally spotted an old Fifteen at a nearby junkyard, will have to look at it closer once the snow melts here. Thanks!
NOW I GET IT !!..OMG ..ben trying to figure out how the friction thing worked ... love this channel...
such an awesome explanation Squatch - thank you .
The metal plate elevates wear from the pressure plate to.
Very good episode.
I would repair the the main clutch lever so it was not noticeable.
And I know you are very capable of doing that. 😊👍👍👍👍
As always, thank you. Great job so far sir.
Good job Squatch, i can hardly wait for the final drives and even the sprockets to go on!
man i love every single one of the videos! thank you, maybe one day i can find a old d2 and resto it with my son
Excellent informative video again 👍 u just always manage to make reassembly so easy 🤔😳👍👍
Nice job
Just as well I waited a little... when watching the section describing the clutch system before you had fitted the second clutch, and, as a motorcycle rider and fixer of old I wondered why they never made these wet clutches... these clutches are to all intents and purposes exactly the same as the wet clutches fitted to most (Japanese at least) motorcycles.. different actuation, on theirs through the middle pushing the outer cap , compressing springs where your system seems to pull from the back.. but with the same effect.
Then you described the reason why oil affected these clutches. It would have been better possibly to make these wet, with a different design of plate than the sintered ones you have there, and that could have solved a lot of the problems with rust etc due to condensation, perhaps.....
I've really enjoyed watching, never worked on anything with metal tracks.
The oild drip watching was interesting....I have now moved on from watching paint dry. Ooh I just realised you did the video of your Dad's Farmall getting sprayed. You're a Godsend Squatch253. Keep up the good work.
Try yacht varnish, now that is slow but deeply rewarding.
@@jonka1 Thanks for the info, I’ll keep an eye out for some.
Subscribed a few weeks ago and went through Playlist to get this rebuild in order and then then the Cat 10 and moved to the super m. While watching that last episode this one posted. Great timing!! You are making it hard to pick a favorite piece of equipment in your playground.
Hope to see you over at the Borksters place tonight for the Bork-o-palooza! Cheers Squatch.
It’s just like a huge dirt bike clutch!!
Thanks for sharing very interesting and enjoyable
Thank you for the tip on how to keep the steering crutches free from rusting together.
And cold weather I could get that on my semi tractor which I still can't get on the road yet the brakes will ice up if I don't move the truck at least once a week. I fire up the engine at least once every 3 weeks and exercise it for 3 hours driving it around the parking lot.
Would weekly exercise suffice and keeping the clutch pack from icing up with rust and debris?
Some day....
wow, buddy your eye must still not be feeling good. my eye has even started to twitch over the oil cup that 180 out from the other one. hope your eye feels better soon so you can fix that. lol keep up the good work.
beautiful work as always ! good job.. i learn more and more from you
This is good old schooling
There is a way to get a lower res camera angle from inside the machine to show what you are doing in some cases by using an endoscope. The ability to insert a camera into the access holes or from the other side and just use a magnet to hold the lens in place can be good for getting odd shots. A sealed camera and lights so can still clean it off when you get it messy but not sure how it will deal with solvents as it is normally just for wet places like pipes.
Excellent video. Thank you for posting! Very interesting
Hello,sir! The other day I asked if could add felt to the oil cups for the clutches! What i was talking about was, felt in the catch cups at the clutches! Not in the fill spring cap cups. To act as a filter to keep debris out! As well as add additional retention time of oil to bearings!
Awesome as always, great ending.
Hi folks, I wonder if the reduced press fit load limit is due to to clutch pack carrier ageing? Seems odd that Cat would specify one that was too high otherwise. The robust well thought out engineering in these oh so very American products is really great to see and I enjoy these videos immensely. BobUK.
I wonder if you could blast in some BOESHIELD T-9 into that area all over the non rotational (clutch pack) metal to prevent corrosion/rust if/when moisture builds up
Might also be a good use for the stuff for storage as well
Very very cool to see it coming together with new non-rusted parts!
Keep em coming!!!!
That is one beautiful machine, practically brand knew, what a fantastic job! It is amazing how you clean up all those old parts, do you add bluing to the finished part? The color is as clean as can be and really does look new. I have to say....your poor eye, dang, you really did a number to it....oh well, it has to get ugly before it can be beautiful again...you poor guy. Thanks for the episode, appreciate it
This is the perfect video to watch during study hall
@@squatch253 At least I’m learning something useful. Lol
If you wanted to vent that steering clutch area, you’d have to make up some sort of adapter plate to bolt on and replace the cover. It should need a pipe attached with a bend to keep out rain and a fine mesh grill.
Value of a D2 Caterpillar 🐛 that is built to new standards like the factory 🏭 💵💵👍
You forgot to mention that having the steel disc against the pressure plate, it keeps the friction from wearing the pressure plate as the years go by.
The original press plate promoted to being on display-a distinct touch!
Thanks for sharing.... no substitute for regular use, as intended.... or storage in a heated / air conditioned climate controlled environment.... (of course everyone can afford that and easily maintain it).
The addition of 4 new clutches and steels will make the clutch holding power 150 percent of stock, based only on the increase in friction area. Typically, bi-metallic clutches have a greater coefficient of friction over standard asbestos based linings. How much greater holding power does the clutch assembly have? I know it doesn't make much difference, because the motor will probably stall out before the friction limit is reached. In practical terms, it only really means that the clutches will last longer as long as maintenance is kept up - it won't really affect the performance.
Have you ever actually seen a D2 with the low/rear seat option? That would be a nice addition to your collection!
Even to get one with that option (regardless of the condition of the rest of the machine), and use those pieces to retrofit one of yours.
Thanks Squatch , that is quite a machine. Interesting to see how all the components were moved backwards as you said. The leveling pads in front of the tracks too - neat.
I see what you mean though, I think you would need a seatbelt to keep you in the seat! Probably fine on level ground in orchards and fields.
The eye looks like it is healing quite nicely.
filling it with honda Transmission fluid would provide the solution to all the problems. Brakes would work, clutches work, no rust.. Harley folks learned this lesson.
Muito bom em mecânica, padrão consecionaria. Parabéns pelo capricho.
Looking better everyday! Also sounds like abit of an exotic club over there lol. Now if only I had a d2 too use all this new found knowledge on. I'll have to work on that part..........
It’s neat to see that brass oil cup today that would be made out of plastic and it’s a shame
Excellent video 👍👍👍👍it looks like your soon ready to put the transmission case and engine back together
@@squatch253 oh yeah that makes sense I know you talked about the starting pinion systems it's nice to see the progress that you have made
Great video.
It’s going to drive me nuts that the steering throw out oil cups are facing different directions.
@@squatch253 Perfect!
Need to make jumbo brass castings of those oil cups for cat crawler “best in show” trophies
Great idea
Love it,,
My opinion is to repair the 13 clutch rod versus the others. Other option is to look for a pristine lever.
Like taking things apart!, at the age of 8, in the 40s, did that to my dads watch. Guess you know the result.
You make it look so easy.!
I love the look of those clutch discs. How are they kept clean from debris and ambient moisture?
I called a place for a quote on a reman D4 transmission and engine and both of them together neared $40,000. I think I'm just going to have to rent my bulldozers; spend the $1,800 a week and then just turn them back in after I've used them and had my fun.
Maybe a couple of drops of fresh oil in the oil cups to observe before we close up the final drives.
Another alternative for the felt you could look into sewing felt if it doesn't work too well
This plain fascinates me seeing what's inside one of the tractors.
I'm getting Dr. Squat soap commercials during your video. :)
Hey Squatch, a little late on this episode but still working on the D2. I have had this tractor for 4 decades and know that the steering clutches have a rust issue here in Ohio. Have you had feedback on any coating to put on the disc to slow down the rust problem? Not sure if anything like Ospho on the steel disc would work. Thanks to General Gear, I have received both side sets of the sintered bronze and all new steel disc. Thanks Howell Machine, LLC.
Its coming along nicely. Do You have a Blade for this Machine. I know you said you wasnt going to put one on it . I was just wonderingbif you had one and how big it was. Thank You. For sharing video. This machine brings back memories with the Hand clutch. Because My first Dozer I ever operated was a 1957 Allis-Chambers HD-6. I was 16 years old. I Loved it. Loved it so much Im still operating a Dozer today and Im 56 Years old now. Though the one I operate today is a Cadillac compared to the Old HD-6. Im still enjoying going to work everyday...I operate a CAT D-6 T . There just not built like they used to be is all. Great Video. Thank You
I was just trying to figure out which way that clutch rod connected to the lever. Seems like the end on the clutch rod is backwards where it connects to the lever, at least compared to one of those others. I am sure I will find out in the next video. Looks like something I would do. Lol!
As much is taking things apart, there is the fun and sense of accomplishment putting it back together. One step at a time.
The only question I have is from the installation of the steering clutch units onto the tampered splined shaft.
If the shaft is splined, tampered, and retained by a 7/8' threaded bolt with thick backing washer, what is the real need to press the units onto the shaft?
Would not the proud placement of the plate to the shaft and then torqued to a 180 - 220 ft/lbs, with a fold over lock- of course, accomplish the same thing?
How much torque is transferred from the output shafts to the steering clutch units?
You could if it's sealed good enough you could store it with desiccant under that plate and removed it when using
Please make time after this d2 to fix the old rd6. It’s a hot topic around here lol
Squatch253 are you gonna do a full restore or just a “field ready” overhaul? Also I must ask. Do you see yo ur self every getting into the d4 7u? Would love to see one on your Chanel!
Too cold for that slogan!!!
I don't mind the no shoes, but no shirt? Nobody wants to see me shirtless. 😬
@@wagon9082, I could say the same!
so towards the end of the video you talk about condensation. So I know this goes against your grain of keeping everything original. But that giant plate that you take out to adjust the clutch pack setup. Be neat if you made your own and drill a hole or two and put a pair or one of vents that they have in cars to vent the valve cover. You can always replace it with the real one . I think those vents are stuffed with steel wool to keep them firm it's out!
👍👍
Why not put oil in the transmission case now. If it were me I’d want to top off that box and make sure there are no leaks, but I also want to put locktite on all those fasteners as well. Guess it’s my ocd kicking in. It’s also cool to see the old tool being retired on the wall of fame.
@@squatch253 I understand now, didn’t remember that both cases filled each other
When I had my AC WD-45 split to replace a seal in the torque tube, the wet clutch accidently snapped open while assembling it back together. It must have been the oil on the clutch that created all the blue smoke in shop. :-) I was able to use a wire with a hook on it to align them on the spline. WHEW!!!!!!
Some people do 1000 piece puzzles. Squatch Jr. here does Caterpillar puzzles. The 3D experience, of puzzles.
Well done, no brakes just no power to tracks for turning.