I like the title of this video, it should be an example for other companies or publishers. Admitting that even an excellent product cannot just be "magic" with no problem at all, is a proof of honesty. Well done Mig !
As I have only returned to scale modelling this year after a gap of 25 years, I am at that point were I am looking at a spray guns and compressors. I have also been thinking of which paints to use and being able to use them correctly. This video has taught me a lot. I yhank you for that sir.
I'm having a hard time using them for the past six months. Bought more than ten. Different colours sprays in different ways (more than any other brand). I tried and failed. Saw some videos, failed again. Spent more money buying the "one primer shot", which is very good, but the paint was washed away while doing the wheathering (more specifc: used the primer, used the dark yello 0010, then used the ammo wash for dark yellow and despite being dry it took off the paint!). since I still have those paints, I will keep trying, but what I see is more and more comments from experienced and unsatisfied users. I use tamiya, Vallejo, italeri and even revell acrylic paints and all of them I can recommend. Ammo is a problem to thin (or not), is a problem to airbrush and do not goes well with using products from another brand on the same work (as any modeler does). And for the record: other products like textures (eg 2201 Pacific waters) takes like two weeks to dry. What I recommend from ammo: the ultra Matt varnish. Not the acrylic paints. Omg NO.
@@ww2blackcat I had the same issues, ended up throwing all those paints to trash bin. Now I use only tamiya and mr color for airbrush and citadel for brush, no issues at all
I had trouble initially with the paints, but bought the mig thinner, and made sure to really shake both the paint and thinner, mix really thoroughly, and really good results. I was used to tamiya paints which are good, but now I mainly use mig, just takes thorough mixing.
a useful Vid buddy, a few steps i don't know before, so i will try this with my airbrush. i have my own method but your Vid is also very helpful. thank you!
I should have known this 3 years ago, had nothing but trouble with spraying this paint. Went over to Vallejo. If I had known this them I might have still been using it !
These paints work sometimes, I find That it clogs the airbrush as does Vallejo if you don’t thin them. I think it’s more me like Mig has stated though as I’m used to using Tamiya and having coats that cover quickly, adhere quickly and dry quickly. I’ll try out this method demonstrated on some paint mules ans see if I can improve my results
Thank you so much for this One shot primer, it started to replace my tamiya and Mr. surfacers. Acrylic, super fine and sandable! I've heard that its rebottled Stynylrez :D. As all mig ammo paints its available in every modelling shop around me! Are there going to to be bigger bottles of it?
Great explanation Mig I have a few of your paints the primers I swear by they are very good to use I've only got your Russian course set but will be buying more when new projects need new colors thanks for sharing 🍻🍺😀
Great video and demo of the correct application of the paint. Interesting that the MIG acrylic is that much different from Tamiya. Did not know this! These kind if videos are very helpful mig! Thank you so very much for posting this kind of video.
www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/acrylic_flat/kit81301.htm "Tamiya Acrylic Paints are made from water-soluble acrylic resins and are excellent for either brush or spray painting."
1. Be sure to end a spray with clean air only. Don't let go of trigger before it is all the way to the front position. 2. Use flow improver and maybe also drying retarder. 3. Wet the tip of the airbrush often Be very sure not to mix these waterbased paints with any solvent, not even alcohol These "acrylics" cure on contact with air. Whereas cellulose acrylics dry by evaporation.
What Esben said is important, but it could also be that you dont clean your airbrush properly after every use. Buy some cheap nail polish remover with etylacetate (not acetone) and spray it throuh, clean the needle then do the most important task witch is blow back. It will clean youre airbrush out from the inside. Etyl acetate based nail polish removers are not wery strong and some venting will remove the smell quite fast. If you use alcohol based paint like Tamiya and Mr aqueous you can use 75% Isopropyl alcohol to clean it. If you use laqcuers use laqcuer thinner or Xylne for cleaning.
Water is fine at very small levels. Acrylic thinners are mostly water (as opposed to alcohol that you'd fine in Tamiya A-20 or solvents in Gunze Lacquer) but they include conditioners that will slow drying and also facilitate self leveling. What I wouldn't do with them is thin over 20% - or maybe 30%. The stuff is still mostly water and if too much water goes into a water based acrylic, it will break down the integrity of the polymer agent and produce a poor finish. I'd guess you could that transparator stuff to a very high %.
omg - yeah - I've been doing it wrong - and just laid some of you Real IDF Sinai Grey 82 (as Olive) over a BMF mustang (in Alclad II), and it was perfect... Slow, steady - thin... perfect. I may have to move to a place where I don't have easy access to ideal ventilation for paint - You may have save me!!
No, you can use other brands of acrylic thinner and primer but if it's your first time using them it's probably best to just use their brand to prevent any problems.
Hey Mig Thanks for your product and videos I have prepare everything following all my purchasing to aerographdiscount and I will test them tomorrow Thanks again
@@gleggett3817 Don't you hate that? It's almost as bad as, "Hey does anyone know how to XYZ?" and then a month later they come back and write, "No worries. I found the answer elsewhere." and instead of being cool and writing the answer so the next poor chap who comes along can find it quickly, they just boogie out. It's like, WTF dude? They should revoke your internet license for that. :-P Right? Hehe
I have found Mig paints absolutely superb. Far better than Vallejo. Much tougher and a great range of colours. You have to make sure they are mixed properly. And no, they are not the same as Vallejo in terms of formulation. You can also thin them with lacquer thinners or AK High Compatibility Thinner. Even tougher and beautiful smooth coats.
Awsome video, thanks Mig!. I've a question: i have used AMIG0030 (yelow sand) + transparator + vallejo thinner with 20 psi with my Sparmax commpressor, the result was orange peel....I don´t understand what was wrong... the airbrush's nose ( a new one -Iwata Neo-) was clean, I think all were right. What would you suggest me?, Kind regards!
Psicólogo Damian Uroz number if possible courses :will not have been mixed fully/two heavy paint layer or too hot air temp ( drys too quick on surface) or the surface you sprayed on too was not folly dried or queried
Thr problem with this technique is you get thick layer of uneven paint. I have used Vallejo with flow improver and slo dri additives and painted the surface wet, and it came out very smooth, but it is too much hassle for me to blend it correctly and not very forgiving when spraying - always jsut on the edge of running. I think the misting layer was good, but maybe you could have gone a little more wet on second layer? To get smoother finish...
Vallejo (Italeri) paints are latex based that is why they are more forgiving to paint with, I paint with them in thick coats like you can do with a alcohol based or lacquer based paint like Tamiya or Mr hobby. But you should actually always apply thin coats of paint for all types of paint for the smoothest finish. Build up paint slowly with thinn layers. The more time you use a more smoother finish will be delivered in return for your patience.
In so far as I can see, whether you apply Ammo paints the right or the 'wrong' way, I would get a better result than by brushing alone. And at my current level of modelling, that would suffice
It's impossible with acrylics, use lacquers you can thin them down to 95%t/5%p, i just did that for mottling. Acrylics are great because they are less toxic and smelly and good or figures, but in the end, lacquers have better properties and seem to work better overall
nff21 24 hours to fully dry, (it can be also be sanded then if need be). I think that it’s Badger’s Stynelrez repackaged but whether it is or not it’s a great primer !
One: the definition of "acrylic" is up in the air. In the auto world you can find many paints called "acrylic lacquers." Here's a clue though - check a Tamiya bottle - if you see the words toxic and flammable you're sure not using a paint that an artist would call acrylic. If the paint has water based polymer for an agent (you'll see non-toxic and and water based on paints like Vallejo and Golden.) I'd sure quibble with Mig saying you don't need a mask: some of the pigments themselves are toxic and you don't really want to inhale atomized liquid plastic. Once the spray settles, however, the stuff is safe. That's why elementary school teachers use acrylics - water based only. I think Mig could paint something splendidly with a melted color crayon, and I have no real quibbles with his techniques. (I wonder if Ammo or Vallejo were painted in a spray gun with a fan cap or a really fine broad circle if a damp coat might not work fine: the airbrushes most of use would function the same.) As RUclips video-guru Will Pattison has pointed out, a plastic spoon is not the best test mule. Those things are made by the zillions and employ a kind of industrial technology that allows a far smoother surface than the best injected styrene we'd see in a model. Will's right on that point - I once compared metallic paints with spoons and got pretty good results with all of them. They weren't so neat on models though.
Super tutoriel thanks fot that Mr. (Mig) Jimenez. You're the One man. It is very nices vidéos. Professional and clearly explain thanks thanks and thanks. Big up to you. Pierrelebelgeapau.
I have three colors ammo mig Jimenez, set on Su-35, F.S.24087 and 30219. I also tried to dilute Tamiya Lacquer thinner (yellow cover). I have a lot of tamiya acrylic paints. I use this thinner. The test turned out well. does anyone have experience with this? Thank you. Edward
Well, I tried. I tried it neat, with vallejo thinner for airbrush, ammo thinner, MLT and flow improver. I tried 20psi, 15 psi, 30 psi.... I tried a 0.2 needle set, a 0.3 needle set... I tried everything that has been suggested and I just cant get the Shokobraun or OliveGrun to spray consistently, to stop blocking the airbrush or to give me any confidence in applying it. Surely to goodness a product that gives so many people issues has a QC issue or something... Just seems crazy I have to spend so much on trial and error to spray a paint that literally states on the box is for brushing AND airbrushing. The weathering products are great, but I very much regret investing in the paints.
You're probably not mixing these paints enough. I honestly use my mixer for these paints. A few minutes of shaking don't cut it with these paints. I had issues before I used a mixer with these.
@@lifeinjersey9846 Yeah ive got a tattoo style mixer but I just cant see that the result is worth soooo much effort. Got the model fair at the tank museum in 2 weeks so Im going to load up on AK real colour and see what happens.
@@Amarok347 look up Lab Genius Mini Vortex Mixer. It should he noted that it mixes so well it comes with a warning that prolonged use could cause nerve damage. So get an anti-vibration glove.
Hello. I have a question. What is the dilution of Ammo colors and compressor pressure to paint à German WWII camouflage. AS I do now (straight out the jar and 1Kg pressure I have "Spiders". Thank you for the answer.
you need to practice, all air brushes run a little different. You want your paintto be about the consistency of milk and you want to use just as much pressure as it takes to get a nice even coverage. Practice on some scrap plastic till you find the perfect pressure for your technique. if you have a fast technique you might be able to get away with a little higher pressure if you move a little slower try a lighter pressure setting. practice and experiment till you get it right. There really is no perfect mix or pressure to get good results. Just keep practicing and dont be afraid to make mistakes, thats how you learn. Spiders means you have to move the brush faster or turn down the pressure. It can also mean you have water in the line, i run a moisture trap at both ends of my line to prevent water spiders.
okay so i finally get my hands on ammo paint and when it ried one shot primer its watery. Like when i spray it its kinda water only i tried to shake it but still the same. Anyone encounter this before?
Why i can't do fine lines with my airbrush using mig paints?? I did use them really really thin and i can't have good results.. The paint gets stuck in the nozzle and it don't let me do constant lines, it just works good during few seconds. Plz help :((
Your response is a cheat. When you lower the air pressure it becomes easier that color gets stuck in the nozzle, the high air pressure helps avoiding it. The problem in my opinion depends from the mixture drying to fast creating lumps in seconds, as you need to work at low pressures for thin lines the flow of air is not enough strong to clean all these lumps and the color accumulates.
Because it is water base and has no grip that's why you have to spray a light dusty layer first so that the paint has something to grip too.Fine lines are a lot easier with Tamiya 0r Mr hobby laquers thinned with their Mister Leveling thinners.
I sprayed a kit with the AMMO Metal acrylic 'flat aluminum' paint (purchased with the Bare Metal four pack of paints) well over a day ago, and it's still tacky to the touch. Prolonged handling leaves traces of the aluminum color on my hands. How long does this stuff take to cure? I mean, _really_ take? "24 hours to cure" my ass.
@@motulautech4680 actually it is a pain working with mig ammo because it is so inconsistent. Sometimes the same viscosity works, sometimes you have to thin, sometimes it goes bad without reason.
Christopher Scott I use the AK interactive one. Their paints are almost identical in their makeup and it's quite cheap as you only need a drop or 2 per mix
Good explanation thanks. However, any airborne particles are dangerous so I don't think saying "it is healthy" is correct. Always wear a mask. Acrylic particles whilst not as dangerous clearly as lacquer can still do damage to your lungs.....
Mark Crocker English is not his first language... I don’t think he meant it’s healthy. He meant it’s better for u than lacquer paints. Come on... use your head.
Breathing causes cancer, but it’s still a popular activity. A bit of perspective and a realisation you can’t live in a sterile environment might help you enjoy the wonders life holds.
Yeah, I paint with brush's and it's not a nice finish..... Also quite glossy. Not worth trying to find out, HOW TO USE THEM. Easier to buy a different make ! LOL Vallejo's excellent for hand painting.
I got the primer because I couldn't get my hands on the army painter one and while it hides imperfections well it is very shiny and hard to put my vallejo and army painter paints over
But they are drying to slow, alcohol based acrylics like Mr Aqeous, Tamiya XF and Ak real colour gives you the same beutiful finish and you dont have to wait forever. Enamels might be more durable but laqcuer paints such as Mr color and Tamiya LP has the same durability but a much faster drying time. Only enamel paints I know about that dries fast like acrylic or laqcuer is AK extreme metal.
Tamiya paints are the best, Vallejo paints clog my airbrush, I just purchased migs big box solution for late war German armor and it didn't even have thinner for the acrylic paints. I think I'll stay with Tamiya paints
Please, check this video to see if it help more, specially about that problema: AMMO Pirmer i same way of application tan our paints: ruclips.net/video/yZHAqxSHHvc/видео.html
9:00 - 1,5 кг и дистанция 10 см. Тем не менее, давление в твоём конкретном компрессоре будет зависеть от размера сопла твоего аэрографа и степени разбавленности краски. Поэкспериментируй немного - подбери нужное.
Спасибо! Я хотел работать с краской без разбавителя,сопло 0.35! Поэкспериментирую ещё конечно, но заметил без разбавителя как и на видео,цвет получается очень тёмный и сильно матовый,в особенности на тёмных красках) А с давлением беда порой-то слишком сильно и разбивается краска о поверхность образую лужицы, то слишком слабо и быстро забивается сопло)))
7tamerlan эти краски нельзя использовать без разбавителя, аэр забивают намертво, буквально через минуту. Я не понимаю, почему Хименез об этом не говорит, наверно у него волшебный аэрограф.
@@jamesmackenzie3262 psi - through a 0.5mm needle - but I've moved to SMS paints now... no more acrylics... i DO use a couple of AMMO paints for things I can't get (thei tire grey is perfect, and some russian colours)
OK. but write in what proportions you dilute green paint with thinner. because I don't understand spanish. It would be nice if you would also do graphic presentations in the future. Regards
Hey, Mr. Jimenez do you stand by your product? I purchased your so called WWII German late colors and weathering system solution box. It does not work as advertised, you know, that pretty box with the king tiger on the cover item # is 7703 I went to use your one shot primer straight from the bottle as advertised no thinner needed, just shake it really good, which is what I did, and you advertise that it cleans up with water, well I followed the instructions in that beautiful little booklet that came with the set. Well not only is the finish of the primer horrible little blobs of paint on my model but my airbrush kept getting cloged and now its completely cloged so I said to myself, no worry it sez here on bottle, that it cleans up with water. So I try, no!! It does not clean up with water now I have paint caked on in my airbrush and airbrush cup, so I said maybe they have thinner in the set, but No! No thinner for primer or other colors. What? No thinner! Oh yes their is thinner, but for enamel paint. I will demand a refund, your product does not work as advertised unbelievable all that lovely acrylic paint and no thinner to clean my airbrush with or thin the primer, for it is too thick. Along with your paint, I will stick with Tamiya much better paint. Thank goodness I have some lacquer thinner from Tamiya on hand, it enabled me to clean my airbrush with some qtips oneshot dissolved and was no more by by mr. One shot
Thank you for help me to solve my problems with Acrylics. The next thing is there are not healthy too, yes no stinking you don't get Brain Problems over time you inhale it. But you will cover your Lungs with the Acrylic Dust and the color will dry in your Lungs and will stick forever in your Lungs not with Enamel or Laquer Paints. In both cases you have to use a mask or another technic to absorb the Spray dust from inhaling so don't let Kids watch you Spray painting without any safety Equipment .
So, that was the English version? On the bottles it clearly states for Brush & Airbrush. How come we didn't see 'Jim' using a brush? Wonder what that looks like when using the other AMMO products. Now they tell me after I spent a small fortune on their other paints. I've been a 'hairy' brush modeller since I was a kid. OK, so after all those years I finally got myself an airbrush and a little compressor. Oh, it's so much extra work when all I want to do is finish the build and then apply paint; do a little weathering, if needed... job's done. Does anyone know of any brand of paint that one can just pour into an average airbrush all on its own; and it works without messing around with additives? I'd really appreciate it if anyone knows of such paints. Cheers, Bill H.
@@CFster G'day Colin, Thanks so much, Colin. I'll look into the MRP range. I don't mind investing in a whole range of MRP paints if they allow minimum prep and ease of use. I have a range of Alclad metallic paints and haven't used them yet because I thought they would be quite complex to use. So glad to find they are not. I really appreciate your advice. Thanks, mate! Cheers, Bill. H.
@@BillHalliwell even MRP can stand some thinning if you want to spray fine detail at 10psi, but for the most part it’s straight out of the bottle. And the thing about Alclad is it’s the same way, but it’s very sensitive to what you spray it onto and HOW you spray it. Also check out SMS out of Australia - no thinning either.
@@CFster G'day again Colin, Pardon my ignorance. I've just had a look at MRP lacquer paints at my local hobby shop and there's a decent but not full range. I noted they had many more MRP acrylic paints that would suit the colour range I'm after. (Many of the lacquer colours are for European and Middle East aircraft. I focus on WW2 Allied aircraft.) So, are their acrylic paints pre-thinned? Sorry to bother you again. Cheers, Bill
@@BillHalliwell really? Any specific colors you’re looking for? I thought they had a fairly comprehensive and accurate lineup. Not sure about their acrylics. I think there’s no such thing as an acrylic that doesn’t require thinning.
Those are the worst paints I ever tried, and is a shame, Miguel Jimenez is one of the best (if not the best) modelers in the world but these acrylics are terrible, his app is also terrible, I do not understand why he is approving this, they focused too much on the toxicity, but we modelers are aware of that and have our own masks, we need a product that works, not something that is simply non toxic or not smelly but not working at all, is strange, because on the other hand, the weathering products of his brand are fantastic, please do something like the AK real colors, because those are the ones I will use from now and ever
Shepard paine and francois Verlindin were the best, also Tony greenland his models were awesome I can't understand why people idolize mig jiminez I've known modelers and their work was much better.
C'mon, you need very special ways to apply it right and even then the quality is much worse than other brands. Most of your other products is great and I'll keep using them, but I'm very disappointed with these paints (bought 20 colours just by trusting in your brand). Never again, my friend :(
@@Hori_Ado Yes but AK Real is lacquer, which is always superior. Tamiya can be lacquer, enamel or alcohol/water based. Have you tried both Real Colors and Mr Hobby? Which one can be thinned the most and still be useable? I only tried Mr Hobby and Tamiya Lacquer
@@esbenrasmussen4289 I tried mr.hobby. They are good laquers, but Real Colors are second to none considering quality, precisely defined colours, and they are so "rich" that you can heavily dillute them and they'll do the job. Just get the right thinner and a good mask and painting would be a pleasure (unlike with mig).
did you used any primer before painting? Acrylics colors need a nice flat base to adhere...only Humbrol enamels and Revell enamels can be sprayed directly on plastic and metal without problems.
Ammo mig is trash. I have thinned this bullshit beyond 50/50 and all it does is dry on the tip of my airbrush. I've spent the last week trying to do this and I'll I've done is waste my time. Ammo mig paint is by far the WORST product I've ever painted with. Worst than Testors hahaha. I can never get a straight answer as to why this is happening. All I see is people spraying with it on youtube and it's perfect for them. For me? Nope. I can apply light coats just fine, how do I stop this trash from clogging my airbrush 10 seconds after beginning?
you can try to use a few drops of flow improver from vallejo in your Ammo mig paint, its a retarder and it works for me just fine. And if that does not work out for you, just switch to acrylic laquer paints like AK real colors of Tamiya or MRP
Tip dry is just an eternal annoyance with acrylics. Use a q-tip with thinners to clean the needle tip frequently. Think of it as rinsing your brush when hand painting.
too much pressure - I'm in a hot dry place and have no issues - I WAS using too much pressure and doing it the wrong was (as per vid) - I had no problems, even without some flow improver...
Be aware of the acrylic thinner!! If mixed with the Mig Ammo acrylics it creates a mixture wich solidifies immediately inside of your airbrush while you re spraying creating a dense jelly. In my case i used the thinner with acrylic matt clear and this fucking jelly obstructed the inside of my airbrush, it arrived even inside the air valve wich has a little button in it that the airbrush trigger press when opening air flow. Now this little button doesn t move freely and sometimes it blocks making the airflow no more smooth as it should be. I have no idea how to disassemble this part neither if this part can be cleaned iinside. THIS FUCKING SHIT RUINED MY BRAND NEW IWATA NEO!!!!!
I have used MIG paints with MIG thinner and this never happened to me. did you use by any chance tamiya thinner? that one contains alcohol and I can see it affecting this paint, wich is pure water based.
I have used MIG paints for quite some time and never had that problem. I also started with a brand new Aztek airbrush. Also, I have used Tamiya clear flat matt can spray and it turned my 30 hour build model all white. it actually happened twice - destroyed two expensive models, all painted, weathered etc. The final stage for me is a flat coat, and like I said, it turned the whole thing white. Tamiya support was to ignore me. The local hobby shop guy told me it is a regular thing. So that is why I left Tamiya and moved to MIG, and sometimes Vallejo. So it sounds like you had an infected system, soaked with bad stuff from previous builds that was never cleaned out properly.
The problem was not the acrylic thinner (if from mig) was the acrylic matt clear, that i'm sure is not from mig...so, dont mix incomatible products. User fault not product fault!
@@Ratpack30 That's not what I've said. I said the problem was probably mixind the thinner with the matt clear varnish, wich I suspect wasnt from mig/ak
Chris' Hobbies Tamiya are pretty much lacquers, they actually work best in lacquer thinner. Sure you can thin them with water or X20A (which is not alcohol). But to get the best spraying result, it's better to treat them as lacquer
Not a lot of problems its just a water based acrylic, you do need to thin it its not ready out of the bottle. Tamiya is alcohol based which is why they spray different. Mig paints are good when they have a color that you cant get from the others.
Think of it as, "How to get the best results from using our acrylic paints". I use Vallejo & Army Painter 95% of the time, but I have a handful of AMMO by Mig paints too. All three are great, but all three are slightly different. I have no connection to this dude's paints...but maybe they just aren't for everybody.
@@alb639 Ye canny teach old dog's new trick's ! I'm old ! LOL I have 6 or 7 different make's of paint I use and yes, there are differences BUT the AMMO paint's don't seem suited to Brush Painting. My suggestion to Brush Painter's ONLY BUY ONE POT to try..... Might save you some money...,.
Vallejo and Ammo by mig paint is basicly the same, only difference might be that Vallejo is not pure water based but a latex/vinyl based acrylic paint same goes for Italeri acrylics.
Yes,you can use these products if you paint spoons , but if you must paint models - they are waste of money !! Sorry jim i know that you have also good products,but these acrylics are awfull !!!!!
I like the title of this video, it should be an example for other companies or publishers. Admitting that even an excellent product cannot just be "magic" with no problem at all, is a proof of honesty. Well done Mig !
As I have only returned to scale modelling this year after a gap of 25 years, I am at that point were I am looking at a spray guns and compressors. I have also been thinking of which paints to use and being able to use them correctly. This video has taught me a lot. I yhank you for that sir.
finally someone explained it, I had really hard times using ammo and ak paints
I'm having a hard time using them for the past six months. Bought more than ten. Different colours sprays in different ways (more than any other brand). I tried and failed. Saw some videos, failed again. Spent more money buying the "one primer shot", which is very good, but the paint was washed away while doing the wheathering (more specifc: used the primer, used the dark yello 0010, then used the ammo wash for dark yellow and despite being dry it took off the paint!).
since I still have those paints, I will keep trying, but what I see is more and more comments from experienced and unsatisfied users.
I use tamiya, Vallejo, italeri and even revell acrylic paints and all of them I can recommend. Ammo is a problem to thin (or not), is a problem to airbrush and do not goes well with using products from another brand on the same work (as any modeler does).
And for the record: other products like textures (eg 2201 Pacific waters) takes like two weeks to dry.
What I recommend from ammo: the ultra Matt varnish. Not the acrylic paints. Omg NO.
@@ww2blackcat I had the same issues, ended up throwing all those paints to trash bin. Now I use only tamiya and mr color for airbrush and citadel for brush, no issues at all
I had trouble initially with the paints, but bought the mig thinner, and made sure to really shake both the paint and thinner, mix really thoroughly, and really good results. I was used to tamiya paints which are good, but now I mainly use mig, just takes thorough mixing.
a useful Vid buddy,
a few steps i don't know before, so i will try this with my airbrush.
i have my own method but your Vid is also very helpful. thank you!
regards from Germany
Robert
Always had good experience with Ammo paints. Airbrushing and hand brushing.
Do you have any tips for hand brushing? I’m having a heck of a time getting decent coverage even after many thin coats.
One shot is by far the best primer i have ever used. The cap sucks though.
The Titan-Primer out of the Sprycan is also great
Excellent video. I do use your paints and I have been applying them the wrong way. Thank you for showing me the right way. :)
Thanks to you we always learn something new.
Honestly, I don't have any problems with ammo paints. The paints are very good . tnx for video. it is very useful
I should have known this 3 years ago, had nothing but trouble with spraying this paint. Went over to Vallejo. If I had known this them I might have still been using it !
These paints work sometimes, I find
That it clogs the airbrush as does Vallejo if you don’t thin them. I think it’s more me like Mig has stated though as I’m used to using Tamiya and having coats that cover quickly, adhere quickly and dry quickly. I’ll try out this method demonstrated on some paint mules ans see if I can improve my results
Thank you so much for this One shot primer, it started to replace my tamiya and Mr. surfacers. Acrylic, super fine and sandable! I've heard that its rebottled Stynylrez :D. As all mig ammo paints its available in every modelling shop around me! Are there going to to be bigger bottles of it?
Excellent! Might even give acrylic paint a try after seeing this.
Great Video and Thanks for taking the time to make it for us....
Good video and I like how the Transparator gives a good definition of a metal surface. Very helpful.
Thank you for doing this video as I have not had great success with your acrylic paints yet. Will give these tips a try.
Scale Model Jedi I see you every where Simon.... are you stalking me? 😂
Great explanation Mig I have a few of your paints the primers I swear by they are very good to use I've only got your Russian course set but will be buying more when new projects need new colors thanks for sharing 🍻🍺😀
Great video and demo of the correct application of the paint. Interesting that the MIG acrylic is that much different from Tamiya.
Did not know this! These kind if videos are very helpful mig! Thank you so very much for posting this kind of video.
When he talks about Tamiya paints, he obviously is not talking about their Acrylic paints (water-soluble).
TheBod76 even tamiyas acrylics are alcohol based not water based. You can see it by trying to mix X20 with Vallejo a true water based acrylic
www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/acrylic_flat/kit81301.htm
"Tamiya Acrylic Paints are made from water-soluble acrylic resins and are excellent for either brush or spray painting."
TheBod76 yup true! But have a look at the back of the bottle, contains isopropyl and is flammable!
TheBod76 might have been wrong about not being water based at all but defo have alcohol in them so self level etc
Thanks for this video Mig!
This was a very informative video on how to use your paints. Thank you for sharing :)
Good video Mig, very much needed.
Firstly nice tutorial. Secondly I still get a clogged airbrush while using ammo paints. I hope you guys can cover that topic in the future episode.
1. Be sure to end a spray with clean air only. Don't let go of trigger before it is all the way to the front position.
2. Use flow improver and maybe also drying retarder.
3. Wet the tip of the airbrush often
Be very sure not to mix these waterbased paints with any solvent, not even alcohol
These "acrylics" cure on contact with air. Whereas cellulose acrylics dry by evaporation.
What Esben said is important, but it could also be that you dont clean your airbrush properly after every use. Buy some cheap nail polish remover with etylacetate (not acetone) and spray it throuh, clean the needle then do the most important task witch is blow back. It will clean youre airbrush out from the inside. Etyl acetate based nail polish removers are not wery strong and some venting will remove the smell quite fast. If you use alcohol based paint like Tamiya and Mr aqueous you can use 75% Isopropyl alcohol to clean it. If you use laqcuers use laqcuer thinner or Xylne for cleaning.
Great tutorial of your product's.
Anh Mig J ơi, sơn nhà anh là khó sơn nhất trong các dòng acrylics đó ạ.
Extremely helpful. Thank you. I never understood the purpose of Acrylic Thinner before. I always used water. I will give it a try. Cheers!
Water is fine at very small levels. Acrylic thinners are mostly water (as opposed to alcohol that you'd fine in Tamiya A-20 or solvents in Gunze Lacquer) but they include conditioners that will slow drying and also facilitate self leveling. What I wouldn't do with them is thin over 20% - or maybe 30%. The stuff is still mostly water and if too much water goes into a water based acrylic, it will break down the integrity of the polymer agent and produce a poor finish. I'd guess you could that transparator stuff to a very high %.
Very helpful. Thank you so much, Eric.
Very useful video, Mig! It's good to get back to the basics and do things the right way. PS: this turquoise color is simply amazing ! ;)
Thanks for an easy to follow instruction and good narration. I'm looking forward to more exciting videos. Keep up the good work, Miguel! :-)
Lots of great techniques nicely and professionally shown, thanks so much!
I like this paint, great vid and product!
I have some question. How to clean airbrush after spay? What the thinner clean it? thank you so much.
Chantawit Pongsiri you need airbrush cleaner for that, it's another product.
Hey Mig, love yourproducts. I noticed some tip dry lately. Can I add some Retarder to the paint? Or mix Transparator and Thinner?
omg - yeah - I've been doing it wrong - and just laid some of you Real IDF Sinai Grey 82 (as Olive) over a BMF mustang (in Alclad II), and it was perfect... Slow, steady - thin... perfect. I may have to move to a place where I don't have easy access to ideal ventilation for paint - You may have save me!!
Professionally done and very well demonstrated. Muchas gracias Miguel Jiminez!
Great support Mig, thank you.
What is 1.5 kegs of pressure in bar or PSI please , great video had problems before but not now sprays beautifully this paint 👍
1.4 bar
About 20-21 PSI
I have just bought the "air forces of the middle east" set...my question is do you need to use this brands own primer and thinner?
No, you can use other brands of acrylic thinner and primer but if it's your first time using them it's probably best to just use their brand to prevent any problems.
@@daspanzer135 thanks for thw reply...sorry it so long to het baclk to you...wifi was acting the maggot.
@@damien5748 It's okay. Glad I could help.🙂
@@daspanzer135 thank you ,ny friend.any and all advice is appreciated.👍
how performs the new AKs colors with the oils and washes ? ar they hard ? and same like the old real colors ? becos i love the old real colors.
Great help thanks Mig
Great video Martin :)
Hey Mig
Thanks for your product and videos
I have prepare everything following all my purchasing to aerographdiscount and I will test them tomorrow
Thanks again
How did it go?
@@gleggett3817 Don't you hate that? It's almost as bad as, "Hey does anyone know how to XYZ?" and then a month later they come back and write, "No worries. I found the answer elsewhere." and instead of being cool and writing the answer so the next poor chap who comes along can find it quickly, they just boogie out. It's like, WTF dude? They should revoke your internet license for that. :-P Right? Hehe
I have found Mig paints absolutely superb. Far better than Vallejo. Much tougher and a great range of colours. You have to make sure they are mixed properly. And no, they are not the same as Vallejo in terms of formulation. You can also thin them with lacquer thinners or AK High Compatibility Thinner. Even tougher and beautiful smooth coats.
Humbrol enamels are the best. No clogged airbrush, perfect finish. Period.
Hello? 1965 just called- they want you to come back…
Greate video. Thank you!
Awsome video, thanks Mig!. I've a question: i have used AMIG0030 (yelow sand) + transparator + vallejo thinner with 20 psi with my Sparmax commpressor, the result was orange peel....I don´t understand what was wrong... the airbrush's nose ( a new one -Iwata Neo-) was clean, I think all were right. What would you suggest me?, Kind regards!
Psicólogo Damian Uroz number if possible courses :will not have been mixed fully/two heavy paint layer or too hot air temp ( drys too quick on surface) or the surface you sprayed on too was not folly dried or queried
Thr problem with this technique is you get thick layer of uneven paint.
I have used Vallejo with flow improver and slo dri additives and painted the surface wet, and it came out very smooth, but it is too much hassle for me to blend it correctly and not very forgiving when spraying - always jsut on the edge of running.
I think the misting layer was good, but maybe you could have gone a little more wet on second layer? To get smoother finish...
Vallejo (Italeri) paints are latex based that is why they are more forgiving to paint with, I paint with them in thick coats like you can do with a alcohol based or lacquer based paint like Tamiya or Mr hobby. But you should actually always apply thin coats of paint for all types of paint for the smoothest finish. Build up paint slowly with thinn layers. The more time you use a more smoother finish will be delivered in return for your patience.
In so far as I can see, whether you apply Ammo paints the right or the 'wrong' way, I would get a better result than by brushing alone. And at my current level of modelling, that would suffice
When you did make a video how to properly use paints ( airbrushing big large surface ) you should also make a video how to spray thin and fine lines.
It's impossible with acrylics, use lacquers you can thin them down to 95%t/5%p, i just did that for mottling. Acrylics are great because they are less toxic and smelly and good or figures, but in the end, lacquers have better properties and seem to work better overall
Do you have any tips for using a brush as i dont have access to a spray gun at the moment
For one shot primer dont need to apply it layer by layer right?
nff21 That’s right, just one layer.
@@kevbee8325 i see thanks, for primer do we need to wait 12 hours - 24 hours for it to dry completly?
nff21 24 hours to fully dry, (it can be also be sanded then if need be). I think that it’s Badger’s Stynelrez repackaged but whether it is or not it’s a great primer !
@@nff2112 Yes
Mig, what is the correct PSI?
Garcia Modelwerks he mentions 1.5kg pressure which I believe is around 20psi
I use airbrush with 1,5 bar and I think it is a regular pressure, isn't it? what do you guys think about it?
Hello. I wanted to ask in what ratio you dilute the colors.
These paints don't really require diluting, but in some videos you can see them thinning it in a 70% paint to 30% thinner ratio
Bonjour et la version french ça. Serait sympa il n’y a aucune traduction en français
One: the definition of "acrylic" is up in the air. In the auto world you can find many paints called "acrylic lacquers." Here's a clue though - check a Tamiya bottle - if you see the words toxic and flammable you're sure not using a paint that an artist would call acrylic. If the paint has water based polymer for an agent (you'll see non-toxic and and water based on paints like Vallejo and Golden.) I'd sure quibble with Mig saying you don't need a mask: some of the pigments themselves are toxic and you don't really want to inhale atomized liquid plastic. Once the spray settles, however, the stuff is safe. That's why elementary school teachers use acrylics - water based only.
I think Mig could paint something splendidly with a melted color crayon, and I have no real quibbles with his techniques. (I wonder if Ammo or Vallejo were painted in a spray gun with a fan cap or a really fine broad circle if a damp coat might not work fine: the airbrushes most of use would function the same.) As RUclips video-guru Will Pattison has pointed out, a plastic spoon is not the best test mule. Those things are made by the zillions and employ a kind of industrial technology that allows a far smoother surface than the best injected styrene we'd see in a model. Will's right on that point - I once compared metallic paints with spoons and got pretty good results with all of them. They weren't so neat on models though.
Thanks you
Thanks Mig !
this subtitles are soooo funny...love your vids
Super tutoriel thanks fot that Mr. (Mig) Jimenez. You're the One man. It is very nices vidéos. Professional and clearly explain thanks thanks and thanks. Big up to you. Pierrelebelgeapau.
thx brother! big video
I have three colors ammo mig Jimenez, set on Su-35, F.S.24087 and 30219. I also tried to dilute Tamiya Lacquer thinner (yellow cover).
I have a lot of tamiya acrylic paints. I use this thinner.
The test turned out well. does anyone have experience with this? Thank you.
Edward
The MiG paint works beautifully with any lacquer thinner. Superb smooth coats and tough as nails. I used Gunze Levelling Thinner-came out a treat.
That's it hombre... it works...
Well, I tried. I tried it neat, with vallejo thinner for airbrush, ammo thinner, MLT and flow improver. I tried 20psi, 15 psi, 30 psi.... I tried a 0.2 needle set, a 0.3 needle set... I tried everything that has been suggested and I just cant get the Shokobraun or OliveGrun to spray consistently, to stop blocking the airbrush or to give me any confidence in applying it. Surely to goodness a product that gives so many people issues has a QC issue or something... Just seems crazy I have to spend so much on trial and error to spray a paint that literally states on the box is for brushing AND airbrushing. The weathering products are great, but I very much regret investing in the paints.
You're probably not mixing these paints enough. I honestly use my mixer for these paints. A few minutes of shaking don't cut it with these paints. I had issues before I used a mixer with these.
@@lifeinjersey9846 Yeah ive got a tattoo style mixer but I just cant see that the result is worth soooo much effort. Got the model fair at the tank museum in 2 weeks so Im going to load up on AK real colour and see what happens.
@@simplethingies3423 try a vortex mixer. Its what I use and honestly I've never had an issue with these paints.
@@lifeinjersey9846 Which mixer, can you send a link to it?
@@Amarok347 look up Lab Genius Mini Vortex Mixer. It should he noted that it mixes so well it comes with a warning that prolonged use could cause nerve damage. So get an anti-vibration glove.
How to clean the one shot primer? I tried Vallejo cleaner and 99% alcohol. Nothing works…
Keep it up!
Hello. I have a question. What is the dilution of Ammo colors and compressor pressure to paint à German WWII camouflage. AS I do now (straight out the jar and 1Kg pressure I have "Spiders". Thank you for the answer.
you need to practice, all air brushes run a little different. You want your paintto be about the consistency of milk and you want to use just as much pressure as it takes to get a nice even coverage. Practice on some scrap plastic till you find the perfect pressure for your technique. if you have a fast technique you might be able to get away with a little higher pressure if you move a little slower try a lighter pressure setting. practice and experiment till you get it right. There really is no perfect mix or pressure to get good results. Just keep practicing and dont be afraid to make mistakes, thats how you learn. Spiders means you have to move the brush faster or turn down the pressure. It can also mean you have water in the line, i run a moisture trap at both ends of my line to prevent water spiders.
okay so i finally get my hands on ammo paint and when it ried one shot primer its watery.
Like when i spray it its kinda water only i tried to shake it but still the same. Anyone encounter this before?
Why i can't do fine lines with my airbrush using mig paints?? I did use them really really thin and i can't have good results.. The paint gets stuck in the nozzle and it don't let me do constant lines, it just works good during few seconds. Plz help :((
Why you want to know it haha regards.
no soy 100tifico
I suggest lowering air pressure for thinned paint. Try with 1 bar - less pressure will avoid you from drying paint on nozzle.
Regards
Your response is a cheat. When you lower the air pressure it becomes easier that color gets stuck in the nozzle, the high air pressure helps avoiding it. The problem in my opinion depends from the mixture drying to fast creating lumps in seconds, as you need to work at low pressures for thin lines the flow of air is not enough strong to clean all these lumps and the color accumulates.
Because it is water base and has no grip that's why you have to spray a light dusty layer first so that the paint has something to grip too.Fine lines are a lot easier with Tamiya 0r Mr hobby laquers thinned with their Mister Leveling thinners.
Funny guy...love your comment at 8:45
I sprayed a kit with the AMMO Metal acrylic 'flat aluminum' paint (purchased with the Bare Metal four pack of paints) well over a day ago, and it's still tacky to the touch. Prolonged handling leaves traces of the aluminum color on my hands. How long does this stuff take to cure? I mean, _really_ take? "24 hours to cure" my ass.
Ammo mig acrylics react to white spirit, and oil based washes, so i stick to Gunze.
Tamiya acrylics for me.
not the same texture, tamiya acrylic need to thin before using, with ammo acrylic you can paint directly
@@motulautech4680 actually it is a pain working with mig ammo because it is so inconsistent. Sometimes the same viscosity works, sometimes you have to thin, sometimes it goes bad without reason.
hello how with what i have to clean my airbrush after using your colors?
I use isopropylic alcohol or mig cleaner
5:50: That's like 30 percent of the bottle.
Can I spray Mig acrylics over Tamiya's grey rattle can primers?
sure, why not.
you can spray any acrylic over an acrylic/laquer primer. just remember, varnish before weathering.
All this stuff does is clog up my airbrush due to it drying way too fast.
Christopher Scott same happeneded to me. Stick a few drops of retarder in your mix you can airbrush for half an hour with no clogs with that stuff
Marc Jones Which retarder? I don't know of any retarder made by Mig? Or can another brand retarder be used?
Christopher, I use Winsor and Newton Galeria acrylic paint retarder to slow down the drying time.
When you use AMMO thinne it seems to clog up less for me
Christopher Scott I use the AK interactive one. Their paints are almost identical in their makeup and it's quite cheap as you only need a drop or 2 per mix
Good explanation thanks. However, any airborne particles are dangerous so I don't think saying "it is healthy" is correct. Always wear a mask. Acrylic particles whilst not as dangerous clearly as lacquer can still do damage to your lungs.....
Mark Crocker English is not his first language... I don’t think he meant it’s healthy. He meant it’s better for u than lacquer paints. Come on... use your head.
Breathing causes cancer, but it’s still a popular activity. A bit of perspective and a realisation you can’t live in a sterile environment might help you enjoy the wonders life holds.
The paint is really unpredictable when hand painting. Some color likes to clump up even when you do several thin layers like interior green.
Yeah, I paint with brush's and it's not a nice finish..... Also quite glossy. Not worth trying to find out, HOW TO USE THEM. Easier to buy a different make ! LOL Vallejo's excellent for hand painting.
I got the primer because I couldn't get my hands on the army painter one and while it hides imperfections well it is very shiny and hard to put my vallejo and army painter paints over
...and that's why we have the good old leaded enamels for a better finish!
But they are drying to slow, alcohol based acrylics like Mr Aqeous, Tamiya XF and Ak real colour gives you the same beutiful finish and you dont have to wait forever. Enamels might be more durable but laqcuer paints such as Mr color and Tamiya LP has the same durability but a much faster drying time. Only enamel paints I know about that dries fast like acrylic or laqcuer is AK extreme metal.
afaik, most countries have banned lead additive based paints and fuels tho?!
Tamiya paints are the best, Vallejo paints clog my airbrush, I just purchased migs big box solution for late war German armor and it didn't even have thinner for the acrylic paints. I think I'll stay with Tamiya paints
I dunno why but he AMMO primer always have the problem where when airbrushed out at 20 psis, thinned, shaken it creates a water bubble affect
Please, check this video to see if it help more, specially about that problema: AMMO Pirmer i same way of application tan our paints: ruclips.net/video/yZHAqxSHHvc/видео.html
I bought a bottle of mission model primer did not thin spray out great no tip dry
No me queda claro la diferencia de usar el transparator o el thinner.
Pues yo había visto que el transparator sirve para usar sobre paneles en color negro y cuando se pinta sobre ellos si ve o no se pierde ese efecto
Кто нибудь подскажите пожалуйста,я не понял на счёт давления в компрессоре, так каково оно???? Хименез совсем не чётко сказал цифру..
9:00 - 1,5 кг и дистанция 10 см. Тем не менее, давление в твоём конкретном компрессоре будет зависеть от размера сопла твоего аэрографа и степени разбавленности краски. Поэкспериментируй немного - подбери нужное.
Спасибо! Я хотел работать с краской без разбавителя,сопло 0.35! Поэкспериментирую ещё конечно, но заметил без разбавителя как и на видео,цвет получается очень тёмный и сильно матовый,в особенности на тёмных красках) А с давлением беда порой-то слишком сильно и разбивается краска о поверхность образую лужицы, то слишком слабо и быстро забивается сопло)))
Ищи золотую середину. Со временем автоматически будешь делать так, как удобно - руки будут помнить.
Тренировки,тренировки,и ещё раз тренировки))) я вас понял! Добра)
7tamerlan эти краски нельзя использовать без разбавителя, аэр забивают намертво, буквально через минуту. Я не понимаю, почему Хименез об этом не говорит, наверно у него волшебный аэрограф.
This stuff doesn't even stick to primer. it just runs away and looks awful why?
too much pressure - I ran at 10 and it was fine
@@jamesmackenzie3262 psi - through a 0.5mm needle - but I've moved to SMS paints now... no more acrylics... i DO use a couple of AMMO paints for things I can't get (thei tire grey is perfect, and some russian colours)
OK. but write in what proportions you dilute green paint with thinner. because I don't understand spanish. It would be nice if you would also do graphic presentations in the future. Regards
I need to buy these!
Oppressive Colonialist Don’t bother. Buy Tamiya, Mr. Hobby, AK Real Colors or MR.Paint paints instead, they’re much better.
@@PSRJ-b-ht3wt I second that.
Perdon, ya lo encontré.
Hey, Mr. Jimenez do you stand by your product? I purchased your so called WWII German late colors and weathering system solution box. It does not work as advertised, you know, that pretty box with the king tiger on the cover item # is 7703 I went to use your one shot primer straight from the bottle as advertised no thinner needed, just shake it really good, which is what I did, and you advertise that it cleans up with water, well I followed the instructions in that beautiful little booklet that came with the set. Well not only is the finish of the primer horrible little blobs of paint on my model but my airbrush kept getting cloged and now its completely cloged so I said to myself, no worry it sez here on bottle, that it cleans up with water. So I try, no!! It does not clean up with water now I have paint caked on in my airbrush and airbrush cup, so I said maybe they have thinner in the set, but No! No thinner for primer or other colors. What? No thinner! Oh yes their is thinner, but for enamel paint. I will demand a refund, your product does not work as advertised unbelievable all that lovely acrylic paint and no thinner to clean my airbrush with or thin the primer, for it is too thick. Along with your paint, I will stick with Tamiya much better paint. Thank goodness I have some lacquer thinner from Tamiya on hand, it enabled me to clean my airbrush with some qtips oneshot dissolved and was no more by by mr. One shot
Cuando en castellano ??
Bg
Thank you for help me to solve my problems with Acrylics.
The next thing is there are not healthy too, yes no stinking you don't get Brain Problems over time you inhale it. But you will cover your Lungs with the Acrylic Dust and the color will dry in your Lungs and will stick forever in your Lungs not with Enamel or Laquer Paints. In both cases you have to use a mask or another technic to absorb the Spray dust from inhaling so don't let Kids watch you Spray painting without any safety Equipment .
I like to spray in a confined space while smoking, really good for your lungs! :)
So, that was the English version?
On the bottles it clearly states for Brush & Airbrush. How come we didn't see 'Jim' using a brush? Wonder what that looks like when using the other AMMO products.
Now they tell me after I spent a small fortune on their other paints.
I've been a 'hairy' brush modeller since I was a kid. OK, so after all those years I finally got myself an airbrush and a little compressor. Oh, it's so much extra work when all I want to do is finish the build and then apply paint; do a little weathering, if needed... job's done.
Does anyone know of any brand of paint that one can just pour into an average airbrush all on its own; and it works without messing around with additives? I'd really appreciate it if anyone knows of such paints.
Cheers, Bill H.
MRP lacquers come pre-thinned. So do Alclad paints.
@@CFster G'day Colin, Thanks so much, Colin. I'll look into the MRP range. I don't mind investing in a whole range of MRP paints if they allow minimum prep and ease of use. I have a range of Alclad metallic paints and haven't used them yet because I thought they would be quite complex to use. So glad to find they are not. I really appreciate your advice. Thanks, mate! Cheers, Bill. H.
@@BillHalliwell even MRP can stand some thinning if you want to spray fine detail at 10psi, but for the most part it’s straight out of the bottle. And the thing about Alclad is it’s the same way, but it’s very sensitive to what you spray it onto and HOW you spray it. Also check out SMS out of Australia - no thinning either.
@@CFster G'day again Colin, Pardon my ignorance. I've just had a look at MRP lacquer paints at my local hobby shop and there's a decent but not full range. I noted they had many more MRP acrylic paints that would suit the colour range I'm after. (Many of the lacquer colours are for European and Middle East aircraft. I focus on WW2 Allied aircraft.)
So, are their acrylic paints pre-thinned? Sorry to bother you again. Cheers, Bill
@@BillHalliwell really? Any specific colors you’re looking for? I thought they had a fairly comprehensive and accurate lineup. Not sure about their acrylics. I think there’s no such thing as an acrylic that doesn’t require thinning.
Those are the worst paints I ever tried, and is a shame,
Miguel Jimenez is one of the best (if not the best) modelers in the world but
these acrylics are terrible, his app is also terrible, I do not understand why
he is approving this, they focused too much on the toxicity, but we
modelers are aware of that and have our own masks, we need a product that
works, not something that is simply non toxic or not smelly but not working at all, is
strange, because on the other hand, the weathering products of his brand are
fantastic, please do something like the AK real colors, because those are the ones I will use from now and ever
Shepard paine and francois Verlindin were the best, also Tony greenland his models were awesome I can't understand why people idolize mig jiminez I've known modelers and their work was much better.
C'mon, you need very special ways to apply it right and even then the quality is much worse than other brands. Most of your other products is great and I'll keep using them, but I'm very disappointed with these paints (bought 20 colours just by trusting in your brand). Never again, my friend :(
agree the same happened to me..Tamiya are easier to spray
@@Jakubescu Tamiya is great, but if you want the best go for AK real colours.
@@Hori_Ado Yes but AK Real is lacquer, which is always superior. Tamiya can be lacquer, enamel or alcohol/water based. Have you tried both Real Colors and Mr Hobby? Which one can be thinned the most and still be useable? I only tried Mr Hobby and Tamiya Lacquer
@@esbenrasmussen4289 I tried mr.hobby. They are good laquers, but Real Colors are second to none considering quality, precisely defined colours, and they are so "rich" that you can heavily dillute them and they'll do the job. Just get the right thinner and a good mask and painting would be a pleasure (unlike with mig).
I always find it funny that guys with Indian accent make the best "how to" guides. (I'm trying to say this in a positive way)
It's Spanish..
airfix is india or humbrol
I stopped buying ammo mig's paint s. They are too susceptible to abrasion.
All paints are, unless you use enamels!
did you used any primer before painting? Acrylics colors need a nice flat base to adhere...only Humbrol enamels and Revell enamels can be sprayed directly on plastic and metal without problems.
Ammo mig is trash. I have thinned this bullshit beyond 50/50 and all it does is dry on the tip of my airbrush. I've spent the last week trying to do this and I'll I've done is waste my time. Ammo mig paint is by far the WORST product I've ever painted with. Worst than Testors hahaha. I can never get a straight answer as to why this is happening. All I see is people spraying with it on youtube and it's perfect for them. For me? Nope. I can apply light coats just fine, how do I stop this trash from clogging my airbrush 10 seconds after beginning?
you can try to use a few drops of flow improver from vallejo in your Ammo mig paint, its a retarder and it works for me just fine.
And if that does not work out for you, just switch to acrylic laquer paints like AK real colors of Tamiya or MRP
Tip dry is just an eternal annoyance with acrylics. Use a q-tip with thinners to clean the needle tip frequently. Think of it as rinsing your brush when hand painting.
too much pressure - I'm in a hot dry place and have no issues - I WAS using too much pressure and doing it the wrong was (as per vid) - I had no problems, even without some flow improver...
Be aware of the acrylic thinner!! If mixed with the Mig Ammo acrylics it creates a mixture wich solidifies immediately inside of your airbrush while you re spraying creating a dense jelly. In my case i used the thinner with acrylic matt clear and this fucking jelly obstructed the inside of my airbrush, it arrived even inside the air valve wich has a little button in it that the airbrush trigger press when opening air flow. Now this little button doesn t move freely and sometimes it blocks making the airflow no more smooth as it should be. I have no idea how to disassemble this part neither if this part can be cleaned iinside. THIS FUCKING SHIT RUINED MY BRAND NEW IWATA NEO!!!!!
I have used MIG paints with MIG thinner and this never happened to me. did you use by any chance tamiya thinner? that one contains alcohol and I can see it affecting this paint, wich is pure water based.
I have used MIG paints for quite some time and never had that problem. I also started with a brand new Aztek airbrush. Also, I have used Tamiya clear flat matt can spray and it turned my 30 hour build model all white. it actually happened twice - destroyed two expensive models, all painted, weathered etc. The final stage for me is a flat coat, and like I said, it turned the whole thing white. Tamiya support was to ignore me. The local hobby shop guy told me it is a regular thing. So that is why I left Tamiya and moved to MIG, and sometimes Vallejo. So it sounds like you had an infected system, soaked with bad stuff from previous builds that was never cleaned out properly.
The problem was not the acrylic thinner (if from mig) was the acrylic matt clear, that i'm sure is not from mig...so, dont mix incomatible products. User fault not product fault!
@@brunolopes9900 i mix AK/mig acrylic thinners with vallejo/mig/AK and i have no problems with it
@@Ratpack30 That's not what I've said. I said the problem was probably mixind the thinner with the matt clear varnish, wich I suspect wasnt from mig/ak
Tamiya acrylics are not lacquers. They are acrylics with water and alcohols. They are far safer than lacquers.
Chris' Hobbies Tamiya are pretty much lacquers, they actually work best in lacquer thinner. Sure you can thin them with water or X20A (which is not alcohol). But to get the best spraying result, it's better to treat them as lacquer
Xiangxiang Kong
I find they lay down a lot flatter mixed with Tamiya lacquer thinner. Smoother finish overall.
@@TheClnDStn x20a is nothing but alcohol...the label gives it away smh
I think they are acrylic lacquers.
seems like a ton of issues when vallejo, tamiya, and mr color have no issues. why bother with this stuff
Not a lot of problems its just a water based acrylic, you do need to thin it its not ready out of the bottle. Tamiya is alcohol based which is why they spray different. Mig paints are good when they have a color that you cant get from the others.
I have had tons of issue with vallejo paints
Should we HAVE to find out, HOW TO USE THEM ? ? ? Easier to buy a different make ! LOL Vallejo's excellent for hand painting.
Think of it as, "How to get the best results from using our acrylic paints". I use Vallejo & Army Painter 95% of the time, but I have a handful of AMMO by Mig paints too. All three are great, but all three are slightly different. I have no connection to this dude's paints...but maybe they just aren't for everybody.
@@alb639 Ye canny teach old dog's new trick's ! I'm old ! LOL I have 6 or 7 different make's of paint I use and yes, there are differences BUT the AMMO paint's don't seem suited to Brush Painting. My suggestion to Brush Painter's ONLY BUY ONE POT to try..... Might save you some money...,.
Vallejo and Ammo by mig paint is basicly the same, only difference might be that Vallejo is not pure water based but a latex/vinyl based acrylic paint same goes for Italeri acrylics.
@@statoilbensin2190 I think you are wrong there. The difference is like Chalk to Cheese..... For brush painting anyway.
Yes,you can use these products if you paint spoons , but if you must paint models - they are waste of money !! Sorry jim i know that you have also good products,but these acrylics are awfull !!!!!
You are doing something wrong.