Hola 👋 saludos cordiales desde Chile 🇨🇱, desde el año 1997 realizó este oficio a menor escala pero con la misma técnica que ustedes utilizan y aunque no lo comercializo en mi país por falta de recursos económicos he realizado trabajos que han dejado mi huella y en su momento fueron valorados por algunos y hoy veo con nostalgia el tremendo esfuerzo y trabajo que significa realizar una obra de calidad y que veo con orgullo lo que se puede realizar con visión de negocios y capital. Disfruto de su trabajo y deseo éxitos y bendiciones para ustedes, gracias por mostrar la versatilidad de este arte y con lo que se puede alcanzar.
Awesome thank you, I noticed you put down the resist without a transfer paper? Is that the way to do it? Also what size rolls were plotter cutting on the Rolend., 24 inch?
Thanks! We did actually use transfer tape. It's just, that part didn't make it in to the video. We used a Low Tac premask. You can see the roll at the end of the table at around the 1:28 mark. The resist we used to cut the mask are 54" rolls . We still had to tile it in 2 parts due to the size on the glass. It was around 65" in both directions.
Nice work! Working on glass and mirrors as well. I was wondering, what exact type of film where you using, and what printer to print it with? Personally living in Europe. Estonia. If you know some company to suggest, then I would be very grateful!
There are a number of different masking films available for sandblasting. Depending on what material you are blasting., Anchor makes the most popular types, but there are so many now.
We have a local supplier called Manus Abrasives. The helmet is part of a fresh air feed system that uses a small compressor with filter to draw clean air. The one I am wearing is an older model from Camco. www.manusabrasive.com/safetyequipment
I want to do small etches for my home and found some cheap sandblaster with media included (aluminum oxide 40-60 at Lidl). From your experience would this grit be good to etch glass? As I am a home, amateur, user, won't need to use much often so I'm happy getting the cheap unit for using once in a while.
@John S.Wilson - That may be a little aggressive but may work as long as you don't blast with too much pressure, or you will risk damaging your resist mask. You will get a more textured feel with that grit. I personally prefer somewhere between 80-100 grit. Practice on a piece first. Good luck!
That's a really good question because if the pressure is too high, you can really go deep quick & there is no "eraser" for etching. Like many of the "arts" it's alot of practice. I will often have an extra piece of glass in the booth with me when I blast that I can test the nozzle spray on. The second concern is carving tempered glass. Once you reach a point of the compression layer in tempered glass specifically, ( certain percentage into the glass depending on thickness) you can weaken the glass, even to the point of failure & the entire piece can explode into thousands of little pieces. That's where it gets a little more technical & we have to be extremely careful how deep we go. I have a piece in our showroom that I carved about 20 years ago that is on 19mm glass & there is an actual bow to the glass because of this.
I've been working with glass and glass fabrication for about 20 years, and I have to say Nice work! And do you work internationally, for example Phoenix, Arizona ,U.S.? I know, check the website!
@Toxx Terceno , I wasn't sure if you are asking because you are considering it or simply curious what we use but when we started blasting we were using a 5 horse compressor w/ 60 gallon tank. It was sufficient but always running. We now have a much larger setup with a computerized control & a huge tank for our company. Depending on what scale your planning on doing would really determine the right equipment. I don't think there is a one size fits all answer. Most people start with a blasting cabinet for smaller jobs. Even the consideration of whether this is in a garage compared to you have sufficient power for a larger motor. There are alot of companies out there that can help set you up for what your needs are.
Thank you for your reply, i was in glass etching business for more than 20 years , a small scale etching business in my backyard, usually frosting or erasing clear glass, and also some 3D and sometimes dimensional etching. My air compressor was worn out due to old age, and i decided to buy a 5hp screw type with small air tank which is new to my knowledge. My old air compressor is 7.5hp belt type with large tank but not sufficient enough to give air. Im hoping the new 5hp will do its job considering its brand new, and i havent tested it yet and i want to use my old compressor's air tank to store more air. All my designing and cutting processes are all manually made, and use a cameo plotter cutter for small detailed designs. Again thanks for giving me an idea, i really appreciate it, more power to you and your company
@Frank Grammatico , There are many places that sell it these days. I have multiple suppliers for different needs. Depending where in the world you are. Some larger companies that sell these products are companies like Grimco & Armour Products.
- The most common resist we use is a 4mil vinyl product. There are many products available depending on what you're doing , how you're doing it, what you're blasting with & where in the world you are situated in. One of the products we use is called Anchor. We do not sell them though.
hello, I’m 33 years old, I’ve been doing this kind of work for 7 years now, and I have a lot of new technical skills, do you have a place to work. thank you
We use aluminum oxide to sandblast. We buy it at 80 grit but when doing any detail, I like to really mix it with used media for a slightly softer feel. I find when its around the 100 grit mark, I get the best "look". Depending on the piece we are working on, we can really vary the pressure. When we are getting full coverage on a piece we might be blasting anywhere from 30psi - 50psi. When going deeper into the glass the range might be 50- 80psi for carving. When shading fine detail, sometimes we can pull the pressure right down from 5-20 psi.
@@slingshotbuddy I prefer aluminum oxide due to the durability & once it starts breaking down a bit, I get great consistency. I haven't blasted with crushed glass , so can't really comment on that. I know its been used for stripping materials, not sure how my resist would hold up. Let me know how that works for you, I'd be curious to know.
hello, I’m 33 years old, I’ve been doing this kind of work for 7 years now, and I have a lot of new technical skills, do you have a place to work. thank you
Hola 👋 saludos cordiales desde Chile 🇨🇱, desde el año 1997 realizó este oficio a menor escala pero con la misma técnica que ustedes utilizan y aunque no lo comercializo en mi país por falta de recursos económicos he realizado trabajos que han dejado mi huella y en su momento fueron valorados por algunos y hoy veo con nostalgia el tremendo esfuerzo y trabajo que significa realizar una obra de calidad y que veo con orgullo lo que se puede realizar con visión de negocios y capital. Disfruto de su trabajo y deseo éxitos y bendiciones para ustedes, gracias por mostrar la versatilidad de este arte y con lo que se puede alcanzar.
Gracias por sus amables palabras. Te deseo el mayor éxito en tu futuro.
So beautiful design glass work 👌👌👌
Beautiful work!
Awesome work. I'd love to do this kind of work myself! God bless.
Thanks, much appreciated!
Love to see more of these.
Yes ..More of these please!!
Excellent
Exelente gracias
Awesome thank you, I noticed you put down the resist without a transfer paper? Is that the way to do it? Also what size rolls were plotter cutting on the Rolend., 24 inch?
Thanks! We did actually use transfer tape. It's just, that part didn't make it in to the video. We used a Low Tac premask. You can see the roll at the end of the table at around the 1:28 mark.
The resist we used to cut the mask are 54" rolls . We still had to tile it in 2 parts due to the size on the glass. It was around 65" in both directions.
Nice work! Working on glass and mirrors as well. I was wondering, what exact type of film where you using, and what printer to print it with? Personally living in Europe. Estonia. If you know some company to suggest, then I would be very grateful!
There are a number of different masking films available for sandblasting. Depending on what material you are blasting., Anchor makes the most popular types, but there are so many now.
Hello . Thanks for sharing. Would you please tell me where you get your protection helmet?
We have a local supplier called Manus Abrasives. The helmet is part of a fresh air feed system that uses a small compressor with filter to draw clean air. The one I am wearing is an older model from Camco.
www.manusabrasive.com/safetyequipment
I want to do small etches for my home and found some cheap sandblaster with media included (aluminum oxide 40-60 at Lidl).
From your experience would this grit be good to etch glass? As I am a home, amateur, user, won't need to use much often so I'm happy getting the cheap unit for using once in a while.
@John S.Wilson - That may be a little aggressive but may work as long as you don't blast with too much pressure, or you will risk damaging your resist mask. You will get a more textured feel with that grit. I personally prefer somewhere between 80-100 grit. Practice on a piece first. Good luck!
@@MPDGlassVinylGraphicsWinnipeg thank you very much for your response and sorry for my intrusion on your business video.
Best wishes and good sales
@@roberts.wilson1848 no apology necessary, this is the community we are a part of & we love talking about it.
beautiful work but how do you know you have reached the desired depth... thanks
That's a really good question because if the pressure is too high, you can really go deep quick & there is no "eraser" for etching.
Like many of the "arts" it's alot of practice. I will often have an extra piece of glass in the booth with me when I blast that I can test the nozzle spray on.
The second concern is carving tempered glass. Once you reach a point of the compression layer in tempered glass specifically, ( certain percentage into the glass depending on thickness) you can weaken the glass, even to the point of failure & the entire piece can explode into thousands of little pieces. That's where it gets a little more technical & we have to be extremely careful how deep we go. I have a piece in our showroom that I carved about 20 years ago that is on 19mm glass & there is an actual bow to the glass because of this.
I've been working with glass and glass fabrication for about 20 years, and I have to say Nice work! And do you work internationally, for example Phoenix, Arizona ,U.S.? I know, check the website!
@John Wilson - Thanks! We have shipped our work all over Canada & U.S. It really depends on the nature & scale of the project.
What kind of air compressor do you use for glass etching ? ( HP and air tank)
@Toxx Terceno , I wasn't sure if you are asking because you are considering it or simply curious what we use but when we started blasting we were using a 5 horse compressor w/ 60 gallon tank. It was sufficient but always running. We now have a much larger setup with a computerized control & a huge tank for our company. Depending on what scale your planning on doing would really determine the right equipment. I don't think there is a one size fits all answer. Most people start with a blasting cabinet for smaller jobs. Even the consideration of whether this is in a garage compared to you have sufficient power for a larger motor. There are alot of companies out there that can help set you up for what your needs are.
Thank you for your reply, i was in glass etching business for more than 20 years , a small scale etching business in my backyard, usually frosting or erasing clear glass, and also some 3D and sometimes dimensional etching. My air compressor was worn out due to old age, and i decided to buy a 5hp screw type with small air tank which is new to my knowledge. My old air compressor is 7.5hp belt type with large tank but not sufficient enough to give air. Im hoping the new 5hp will do its job considering its brand new, and i havent tested it yet and i want to use my old compressor's air tank to store more air. All my designing and cutting processes are all manually made, and use a cameo plotter cutter for small detailed designs. Again thanks for giving me an idea, i really appreciate it, more power to you and your company
Please tell me where I can get the masking materials.
@Frank Grammatico , There are many places that sell it these days. I have multiple suppliers for different needs. Depending where in the world you are. Some larger companies that sell these products are companies like Grimco & Armour Products.
@@MPDGlassVinylGraphicsWinnipeg Thank you.
الحفر على الزجاج هوه اكثر ما يعجبني وانا اعمل به منذ 16 سنة
How about 3dimensional design
Is this done on the back of the mirror? Or front
@Kris Karkota this was not sandblasted on mirror. It was 10mm tempered glass.
What types of film did you use please
- The most common resist we use is a 4mil vinyl product. There are many products available depending on what you're doing , how you're doing it, what you're blasting with & where in the world you are situated in. One of the products we use is called Anchor. We do not sell them though.
hello, I’m 33 years old, I’ve been doing this kind of work for 7 years now, and I have a lot of new technical skills, do you have a place to work. thank you
Can I ask what media/grit size you used and pressure?
We use aluminum oxide to sandblast. We buy it at 80 grit but when doing any detail, I like to really mix it with used media for a slightly softer feel. I find when its around the 100 grit mark, I get the best "look".
Depending on the piece we are working on, we can really vary the pressure. When we are getting full coverage on a piece we might be blasting anywhere from 30psi - 50psi. When going deeper into the glass the range might be 50- 80psi for carving. When shading fine detail, sometimes we can pull the pressure right down from 5-20 psi.
@@MPDGlassVinylGraphicsWinnipeg thank you.
@@slingshotbuddy I prefer aluminum oxide due to the durability & once it starts breaking down a bit, I get great consistency. I haven't blasted with crushed glass , so can't really comment on that. I know its been used for stripping materials, not sure how my resist would hold up. Let me know how that works for you, I'd be curious to know.
hello, I’m 33 years old, I’ve been doing this kind of work for 7 years now, and I have a lot of new technical skills, do you have a place to work. thank you
G.pm yes I have space at home kind help me to learn ty.