If the print files are not downloading correctly through Thingiverse, try to download them individually. Also, here is a mirror 3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3dpx-013981
So, at some dollar trees, you can find food-grade silicone, and in the flashlight/electronics area you can find these sweet forehead flashlights that have awesome straps on them. Grab 2 of them and boom you have adjustable straps!
Standart silicone caulking is not suitable for prolonged skin contact. It has anti-mould agents in it. Please use food-safe silicone caulking or aquarium caulking (as water+fish have contact with the caulking 24/7 some consider it even better than food-safe).
Great logic.. I found this one on a local e-shop, unfortunately no bigger sizes. www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/all-purpose-100-silicone-adhesive-sealant/, seems good?
I could not find anything that said food safe in home depot. If anyone finds a brand please post. I did buy 100% silicon for kitchen and bath. It had a strong odor and it took 48 hrs to cure. No mold on my face. But I have not worn it for any period of time yet.
@@geort45 Nah, that size would be perfect for applying to a mask. If you had to use a big caulking gun, I think it'd be quite difficult to line the sides lol
Good point on safe filter materials. I have seen some folks using furnace filters but a lot have fiberglass which is a real NO NO. BTW you have an amazing voice. I could listen to you read the phone book
Awesome design, do you mind if I extend it a bit on my channel? I want to add electronics to measure pressure in the mask to calculate breathe rate, and delta of temperature on inhale and exhale. Then use these values to change the colour of embedded led's. This may function as a good indication of proper mask fit, and possibly body temperature. I am going to have the system log values once a second to an SD card so that the result can be analyzed later. I might also try to get my hands on a pulsox module and add that information as well
@ Mikey's Lab Sure Mikey. Feel free to test this version or the version from my first video. I am very interested in the results, whether positive or negative. Sorry about the late reply! I have been swamped with comments and missed this one somehow.
The valve is easy, some models use a tiny hole with a piece of rubber on top that flaps open when breathe out. Have you tried making the face part off pla and use heat to mold it to your face?
Great job. I've got two curing right now. This mask rendered all the Montana masks that I made, well they are undesirable now. You wouldn't have time to create a mold for those would you? I'm trying in Blender but I just don't know the tool well enough yet.
In theory a silicone seal could be make separately and then glued into the mask for the Montana Masks. The glue is expensive tho and can off-gas a lot. That's the main reason I went with the looping structure to get it to adhere better on its own. How did the 2 masks turn out?
I know people are asking about exhalation valves to decrease moisture and heat, but bypassing the filter on exhalation defeats the real purpose of using a mask out in public. Protecting others from the wearer's infection.
mask only good if everyone use one, if everyone use one then the virus will get caught on their mask. you need an exhalation valve on mask if you wear it for prolonged use
I attempted this once and noticed the mold was not mating properly with the mask, but tried anyways. Working with the silicone caulk was an absolute nightmare; it gets everywhere and has very intense fumes. Since the mold and mask did not mate well, the seal was not great, but the process worked overall. I changed some slicer settings and just printed a 50% scale of both mask and mold and they still do not fit together. I'm not sure if this is because of uneven cooling during the mold's printing. The mask fits with the filter cover no problem so I suspect the mold is to blame. I'm considering scaling the mold up by a small factor to get a better mate. Has anyone else had these issues?
I use simplify3d and increased the mold by 1% and the mask fits a lot better. Also I found a new profile for S3D that makes the prints really smoother. Yes the silicone can stink the house out but there are types that do not smell. I use sikaflex ebt+ which does not smell,I got lucky. It still takes a good 24 hours to cure. I have a large proboscis so the nose part needs attention but overall the molds are turning out quite well. Of course they are only temporary and will need renewing . If it's any help make the nozzle of the silicone tube small but not too small so you have control the flow. I fill and smooth the mold first then marry the mask to it and put the silicone tube through the front on the mask to seal the inside edges. I leave it outside in the shade under cover for a day. Even though I have greased the mold the silicone still sticks as the mask is being peeled off so I use a small knife to help separate the silicone from it.
@@slicedpage Thanks for the advice, I'll try increasing the mold by 1% and give it another shot. I had no problem curing or getting the silicone out on my last attempt, it was really just the mold (using Sil-Bond)
@@slicedpage Just printed my 50% model's mold at 51% and it fits perfectly! I'll give the full-sized one another shot. You might want to consider mentioning the 1% trick on the NIH Exchange page, I'm sure it will help others. Once I get a good print I plan on posting a comment as well
@@ollie-d well done. When I first read you made a 50% mold I thought geez that guy must have a small face or he's making a mask for his cat:) Now I understand. I'll check out NIH, cheers
❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️Important!! Important!!❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️ always use Breathing Valve (such as 3M 6889 and 3M 7583) to make sure exhaled air will not return to the filter, because moisture will damage the filter fiber and remove static electricity, significantly weaken the mask function.
for most people you do not want a valve. we should be wearing masks to protect each other. A valve lets your pottentially infected breath out unfiltered.
Another idea that's super helpful to maximize fit: you can thermoform PLA. This means you can print the mask (and/or a scaled mask to fit smaller/larger faces), and THEN place the seal area (after silicone sealing) into boiling water for a few seconds, shake it off, and thermoform to the user's face and hold for a minute while it cools back down. Also, Ease Release 200 is a great mold release for this (as I've verified personally), and XTC-3D is great for coating/sealing the PLA and getting the silicone to bond more strongly to the PLA. Lastly, the best silicone I've tried for this mask is FDA-approved food-safe acetone silicone (acetone does not usually mean food safe, and likely not skin safe either, so check on the "food-safe" part as well), while most (not all) professional mold silicones/polysiloxanes don't have the surface tension to stay in the seal caster like they're supposed (else you get a puddle of silicone instead). Brushable silicones may work well, but I haven't tried them. Hope that helps! And good luck!
I'm glad you didn't get to output valves. They defeat some of the point pod the masks, because while the masks do protect you, they are also protecting others if you are carrying the virus but aren't showing symptoms. The output valves would slow your ejections some, but you should ideally be both inhaling and exhaling through your filter material
Correct me if I'm wrong here; the size of COvid19 is supposedly .124 micron but it rides on the back of a droplet once it's spewed out of your nose or mouth and the droplet is a lot bigger 1-5 microns so that why cotton is effective. Of corse a purpose built filter material will filter lower sizes but is cotton not OK?
This is brilliant actually! Such a great mix of achievable and functional! 2.75 is still peanuts for people with access to these tools! The trade off between cost and complexity vs quality is fantastic. Alsp; looking forward to seeing your new desk.
I bought one in argentina for the equivalent price of 2 dollars with included shipping during the day from a small 3d print shop. Its using this exact design, and they even let me choose in black and with the hex grill. And they included 10 ANMAT certified filters with it.
Made a second batch and decided to try something other than vaseline. I had really good results with Elmers liquid glue. The stuff you get for kids school projects. 4 layers on the mold for the face seal, let them dry between layers, takes like 10 mins total. Then apply silicone and shape it accordingly. When I went to remove it, came off cleanly from the mold, and then I peeled the elmers glue from the silicone face seal and it was like peeling it from my hands except less satisfying. I may or may not have applied it to my hands and peeled it off while waiting for the silicone to set fully >.>
Wax paper worked really well for me. I just used a thumb nail to get it to conform to the mold, then cut off the excess. When I went to remove it, the mask just lifted away except on the outer edge where I was a bit sloppy with the silicone and managed to get it over the sides, but even that separated easily. Removing the wax paper from the silicone was a little harder, but not more than peeling a label off of a medicine bottle. It was finicky and took a while, but left a very clean result... except for a two places where the paper creased. On my next attempt I cut some wedges where the paper had trouble following the curvature of the mold.
Thanks for the idea. The design has been submitted. Hopefully they will have a chance to test it out. If they get a chance, I will post their assessment here.
I am not really mechanically inclined, and the shakes I get from Parkinson's doesn't help. Is this design being sold by you or anyone? I would really like to get 2 ( my son and I) Thank you for your time.
I found this company online [O2 Canada] that has superior, medically approved, respirators out of Canada. I intend to order from them as soon as I have an extra $70-$80 [70+estimated shipping to the US for one mask]. As a retired nurse, these look very comfortable and effective, and the company has a great ethical foundation. Read their "About" page. o2canada.com/
This is awsome, wish I would have bought that 3D printer before all this started. I would pay for a pair of those mask awsome design. I would probably use a different silicone like aquarium silicone though.
I actually did design a 4th version for potential sale but the person that was "funding it" was grossly incompetent and the whole thing fell through after months of work. If I have time one day, I'll make a video on that version.
I work for a "mail service" and I have a 3M respirator. I wore it for 3 days and then they said I can't wear it anymore. It's against the rules, because I'm sure OSHA requires training to use them in our facility, and they don't want to pay for the training. I wonder if getting this made would be a loop hole for me to wear a filter, since i would classify this not really a respirator. I don't want to wear their paper masks or cloth masks because whats the point if you aren't even fully protected.
Well done! The designs of masks that can be disinfected and used over and over have been evolving rapidly over the last two weeks. This is the milestone design that I would gladly promote. The elastic waistbands from underwear (new ones still in package, obviously) would be readily available locally at any store, and very comfortable. It would be great if you provided a V2 print-file with attachment points suited for wide elastic bands. Also, if this had print-files in three mask sizes, I couldn't see any further way to improve it.
Puedes acelerar el secado de la silicona con pintura acrílica. y si tienes una bomba de vació puede eliminar las burbujas quedando mejor. También puedes usar látex para el mismo molde aunque es un poco mas engorroso de aplicar. pero aplicar una capa completa de latex a la mascara como recubrimiento puede sellar los micro poros eficientemente haciéndolo mas segura.
If you use a dixie cup to fill with silicone first, then add a couple of drops of acrylic paint (any color), then mix thoroughly, the silicone will dry much faster and dry solid internally throughout.
The only thing I HATED about this was the silicone seal. I feel like a TPU gasket would probably have been best. Also, the silicone seal would in no way last. It would be gone within a few weeks at best in my opinion.
The silicone seal was on the thin side to improve comfort but it is hardly robust. I think the weight of the mask makes it less than enjoyable to wear long term regardless of the seal. Updates for both masks are in the works. I think version 1 will get printed in TPU and this version will get a silicone seal that doesn't come out of a tube. ETA is probably a few weeks.
The screw attachment is a good idea but screws with a knurled head so you don’t need a screwdriver as well as threading the mask so you don’t need to bits would make it easier to change out filter media. Not having access to a screwdriver or dropping one of the nuts would render the mask out of service.
Can you make an adapter for a Roomba 700 Series HEPA Filter? These filters are small enough they could be used in a mask. If you can post a "blank" front piece (solid, with no cutout for filter media) I could probably design it as I have a few of the filters on hand.
great improvements! If you want to improve the fit for wearing glasses, you can make a small recess (some kind of a sharp dent) in the nose area of the mask, in which the glasses frame can sit properly. Another improvement could be an exhalation to prevent the filter from getting wet through the escape of water from your breath. The disadvantage would be that the exhaled air is not filtered and can contain exhaled viruses, unless you also filter the exhaled air.
that looks good. but I see a lot of ppl on yt not taking porous surface of the mask into consideration. I think it could be a problem when you try to sanitize this properly. maybe ABS with acetone vapor bath and silky smooth surface. just an idea
Yup. It weighs too much to be comfortable long term wear. A lot of people like it but personally I prefer the first mask from my first video. The last few weeks I have wearing it while cutting and sanding wood up to 8 hours a day. At only about 10 grams it's really easy to forget that its on my face. I am going to do a new video in a few weeks with updated designs. The goal is to cut about half the weight out of this version.
I really really love this mask design! However I would like to ask for two important changes 1.) make the mask walls thicker, about twice as thick for durability and to accommodate tolerances on other printers (not everyone can print high quality). I've printed a three of these with PETG and the curved overhangs oftentimes have imperfections in my prints which leaves air gaps. I have printed otherwise flawless masks only to notice that there is an imperfection in one of my prints and i have to toss the whole thing away. 2.) Could you scale this design down to 75% for women and children? (yes i have done it but the screw holes are too small and there is not enough material for the tabs). I tried this mask on my mom and it was too big for her smaller face (maybe have 3 universal sizes? Large Medium and Small). Keep up the good work and by all means im looking forward to your next video and design iteration. :)
@@jamprats it took 3 for the mask, 2hr for the cap and 6 hours for the mold with 20% infill. My layer height was 0.3, but I think that the mask should be 0.2 or 0.15 as even in a near perfect print, occasionally I found holes where the layers start and stop (z seam alignment random is best but sharpest corner or user specified can make the gaps worse) and those holes must be patched with silicone. A thicker mask wall would fix this for a faster rough draft print. If you don't have your PETG stringing under control or desire faster prints, don't print this as you will have holes in the print. That said this design is really good and inspirational. I would love to combine two elements of this mask with the Bolivar mask. The Bolivar mask is more forgiving to rough prints as it has thick walls. But if you do print this mask, do a slower print and higher resolution print with 100% infill.
@@mindsofgreatness thank you for the suggestion, I tried the Bolivar mask and it has thicker walls and these are more forgiving to stringing or rough prints. I'm currently using weather proofing foam tape to form a seal between face and mask, but I think a silicone mold like the one in this you tube video is better along with bolt on filter attachment instead of press fit that the Bolivar mask has. I see both of these masks and wish I could import these into AutoCAD so I could solid model some improvements to both. The Bolivar is more forgiving of holes in the print layer. Currently using 5 walls and 100% infill with .3 layer height, my speed is 40mm/s and the prints take 6 hours but I can fit two masks to a 200mm x 200mm bed which is great for speed.
one of the things that i think should be done after this mask is printed is to also apply a thin layer of silicone to the interior of the wall as sealant in case of small holes or fractures, this way even with draft prints this mask can still be usable. I really really love this design, i think that a future mod would be a valve cover for the front piece. I will try to design one when i have the free time.
One thing on the professional masts is that there is a one way valve. If you want to add one, for a buck or less... you can get CPR face shields (25 on amazon for 17 bucks shipped). These are one way valves and a plastic used for giving CPR to someone without actually having to touch them. If you add it to your mask design, remember that you want it pointing down / towards yourself. Estimates now are that 50% of contagious people may not be showing any signs... So you wear masks to protect others more then protecting yourself (6 feet does a better job at that). So adding a one way valve defeats that. But if it's pointing at your own cloths, it should be the best of both worlds.
The glasses should not be wore behind/under the mask, but out of it, or the mask could not be sealed enough to prevent microscopic drop to fly out. But the project is really cool!!!
The good thing about version one is that it's so cheap it can be disposable, version 2, would give people ideas about washing it, and 3d printing is not food safe because bacteria/viruses/fungi can collect in the layer lines and microscopic crevices, where water or disinfectant can't get to due to liquid surface tension. If one were to dip the entire thing in resin or go through the trouble of sanding, priming and painting, that problem would be solved, but it would untimely defeat the purpose of being an easy to print mask.
agreed. for food-safe applications though, it's common to use a material that you can smooth chemically. ABS becomes the common choice due to price, ease of smoothing, and its temperature resistance - the main caveat is dealing with the shrinkage that often occurs during printing for parts that need to be assembled with tight tolerances.
k...…….. Imagine you wear glasses…………….. imagine you have to Keep objects close to your eyes, to realize all details. Bumping the Mask is normal in that case. what About includet muffling pillows? ;)
If we're gonna pretend SARS-COV2 is airborn, you still have things wrong. You need sealed eye protection. The material from the 3d printer may not be fully air tight. A 180 degree face shield should be plenty enough, it'll probably cover you from droplets for the most part.
The purpose of the masks is to assume that that wearer has the ccp virus. Not to prevent from catching it. Unless the wearer is shooting liquid from their eyes like a certain lizard can. In which case getting sick would be the least of my concerns.
@@grinningtiki220 Masks decreases risks of being infected. Do you not understand how transmission work? Droplets fly from nose and mouth onto other peoples eyes, nose, and mouth. If you protect your mouth, eyes and nose you will not be infected. The tiniest droplets could find their way through the mask, depending on how good the mask is, but you've already reduced the risk by now. Not wearing any form of eye protection while wearing a mask makes the mask only prevent you from infecting others. Don't listen to WHO and CDC, they're seemingly clueless and heavily political. KHO has actually proven themselves competent and have guidelines that are much different from WHO and CDC... Look at the difference between SK and US/Europe.
Hi! I really like your project. I want to design and print my own original one, but Your is the best i've found so far and I also have few questions, maybe You could help me. So first is : how did you find the best (the most perfect) universal shape of the main part of the mask (The part which sticks to face)? Did You find it somwhere or just tried printing few shapes ? Also have you done some research or experiments to find out the effectivness of diffrent filteres? I need to find the best one. Thanks and peace!
Hi Marcin! I used the model of my head that I developed for the V1 mask video. From there I just tried to mimic the shape and function of a high end respirator's silicone seal. The caulk-based mold was just a way to make it happen with readily available materials. Be sure to use food safe 100% silicone for the mold that does not have mold-resistant agents in it. Until I printed the V3 mask, I was using this version most and for a filter I just used a cut to size KN95 mask. I think that HVAC filter material is more breathable but it is very important to check with the manufacturer to confirm that there is no unsafe material in the filter itself (like fiberglass).
@@The3DHandyman Hi! I'm progressing with my own project and I have some new issues to solve, and also some information about the filtration. Maybe You could contact me via email: maarcinmuraat@gmail.com . I would like to ask few questions and maybe i can give You some practical tips ! Thanks and best regards
I think a reed valve could work for exhaust, can print to ideal flexibility and you have the glossy finish from a glass bed. Fewer parts is always better. Cheers.
For better filter material hold you can use metal mesh. Can buy it in Dollar Tree. Also, thermal glue works really well with PLA, and you can easily and securely glue mesh to the mask.
How did you make the silicone mold portion? I designed a mask and have been trying to get a similar result. One thing i actually dis was pour gelatin/glycerin mold material over my mask, and then cast a mask in silicone. But i want to try this way. So how do i make that mold portion to match my mask? I use sketchup pro as my modeler:)
Hi, i am really impressed with your work, and i am building one of your masks right now. I'd like to ask if you were interested in a small collaboration; i have some suggestions for improvement. How could i contact you?
Thanks for the offer! I have been flooded with similar requests lately and, to be honest I need to move on to making something things that I can sell eventually. I have been self employed for the last few months and didn't expect the economy to grind to a halt 1 month after I quit my job. As for revisions for this version, feel free to post them on the Thingiverse page and I will try to incorporate them into the next minor revision. The comments on that page are easier to brows than this one.
@@The3DHandyman Thanks for your reply. I have been self employed for a year myself, and now i found myself grounded at home in Covid19 lock-down....In that manner, i wish you the best!!!! Let me allow one last question though- do you think you could share the original CAD files? I work with Solidworks or Fusion- That would make incorporation of changes to the model a lot faster. Thanks in advance. Stay healthy.
@@nureddinbennett5846 You can import the stl files into Fusion 360 and convert them to a solid body. It is pretty easy. I have did it several times on other designs and made modifications. Search youtube as there are a lot of videos how to do it.
I did feel very self conscious at first when I walked outside with this on but because all normality has changed everyone I encountered thought nothing of it . Heck you could walk around town wearing a space suit and no one will bat an eye.
Would using a thin CA (super) glue work for smoothing out the surface? Maybe even as a smoothing coat for the entire mask? Would double to make sure all the layers are sealed as well. I’d love a couple of these. Also, would losing a little surface area for the filter to be able to and a exhalation valve be beneficial? Help prevent possible CO2 build up.
there is a PM2.5 filter that is a common replacement filter for cloth masks. readily available on amazon. could you find one of those perhaps too see if it fits? also im curious about the stink from the silicone. most silicone's Ive dealt with have a real stink to them.
How about adapters for 3M Bayonet to Honeywell North threads and Moldex bayonet to 3M bayonet? These conversion adapters can be simple but life saving, I know some exists but they're not widely available.
To help make these parts you might find this video helpful ruclips.net/video/5bswBv9v9R8/видео.html to get the mold smooth as you can. Sanding takes ages but with a smooth print the job is a lot easier. Also the settings make a fantastic profile for the Ender 3 in Simplify3d. UPDATE; In addition to the smooth mold print I tried this method of joining the mask to the mold ruclips.net/video/_nXy1j5b6q0/видео.html. First use the silicone to line the edges of the mask. Then with the video tut make enough 'dough' to line the mold, but be quick.Smooth it out then join the mold to the mask. I gave it 12 hours to set but this was my first attempt and I believe it set a lot quicker than that. Of course the raw silicone still takes 24hrs to really set but the main thing is the mold is easily removed. (vaseline) I would recommend smoothing the silicone at the join from the inside of the after an hour or so. Of course all this accounts for diddly squat without the 3D Handyman's outstanding design. It is a thing of beauty and will save lives.
Thanks for putting the time in to design a functional mask. Can I make a suggestion? Use ABS to make the silicone mold instead of PETG or PLA. ABS can be smoothed using Acetone vapor and the resulting finish is like glass.
This design is not safe for more than a few minutes. Because it seals around the face, carbon dioxide will build up on the inside of the mask behind the filter. Masks without valves should be loose around the face. Note that the 3M respirator has a valve. There are in-depth articles on the Internet about this problem. I suggest looking for a design that is approved by the National Institute for Health (NIH).
So to download the files go to the website linked Below the picture it will have tabs click on the one that says 3 Thing Files. There should be individual files to print, so print the 3 files instead of the ones all at once.
Dude you need to go over the top of the mask with a filler. You should know that at a microscopic level 3d printing is not perfect, there will be holes and gaps between the layers. It does not matter how good of a printer you have. You need to sand the outside of the mask, put a filler in it and sand it smooth followed by a paint job. Any small imperfections in the mask can put people at risk. Especially people with shitty printers.
I don't know if it's been suggested before, but what about using an abs plastic for the silicon mold, and then using an acetone treatment to get it smooth without sanding? I have no experience with 3d printing and i dont know if this would work
Hey man I kept watching some other videos And theres one thing you are missing . You need to put a one way valve (checkvalve) and youwant to make an (out going valve).
After watching your first video I started thinking about a much more comfortable material to be on your skin such as rubber silicone and it had to food graded to prevent any dangerous inhalation... hit the spot! Lol
As a representative of my hospital's PPE innovation group, I would be wary of this considering lack of clinical testing. While non-human data suggests the materials have some degree of filtration and that CDC rec's suggest a cloth mask is better than nothing that I agree with, items like this can give a false sense of security regarding how much protection is given when there is not firm clinical data with this device in particular. This can lead to users putting themselves in situations they would not otherwise that portends risk. That does not mean that this device does not provide protection, but as a clinician with experience conducting clinical research I assume that any device that lacks clinical data offers zero protection until proven otherwise given clinical standards given my training.
I agree. If someone in the medical field is able to test this design with professional test procedures and equipment, that would be the only thing that legitimizes this design or any other 3D printed design for that matter. This mask has been submitted to the NIH 3D printed registry and I hope that someone is able to review it and approve it for community wear or reject it outright. Regardless of their findings, I will post the results in the description.
Excellent job! Very creative solution. One problem I am having with my two layer cotton mask is that It feels pretty good at first, but as it gets loaded down from my moist exhale it starts getting hard to breath in both direction. Am looking for a exhaust value 3d printed design. Have you come across anything like that? Again, great video. Thank you.
Thanks for noting this as an issue! I think there are some designs out there that include valves but I have not tried any of them personally. A lot of people have requested this an I may work on it at some point in the next few months but likely not before then. If you feel that your breathing gets labored with this design, it may be a good sign that it is not an appropriate solution. Please be safe!
Go onto EBay and find a real respirator and some filters. They're still available, just way over-priced. The advantage is more surface area to breathe thru, and of course the exhaust valves. You can also find the "one way valves" on Amazon.com ; both will take about the same time to get them; except that the real respirator from E-Bay will work for you better. It'd take some rigging to get it to insert ..
I've seen reports that this type of one-cure silicone can be bad for skin contact even after curing. Have you tested this out against a face for a few days?
Do you have a link to an article about this? It's a good thing to keep in mind, regardless. I used NSF certified caulk so I would consider that generally safe for skin contact but people can have silicone allergies or possibly other issues. This mask has not been tested for longer than a few hours at a time. No negative effects were experienced during that time.
@@The3DHandyman Dang. I didn't save the link where I found it. It was a crafting link about making... jewel clusters? They had no citations, just said that this type of cure caulk could irritate skin. So I have no confirmation.
@@The3DHandyman I don't have any articles, but this "kitchen/bath silicone" contains mold growth inhibitors, which can be irritating to skin. Aquarium silicone would be a better option if food grade silicone isn't available, as it doesn't contain any additives as far as I'm aware.
I read that there might be issues with porosity of printed masks and the multiple cavities that you have between layers that can lead to the virus to fit in.
This mask is printed solid to help reduce the occurrence of micro cracks. Regularly sanitizing any reusable equipment is also a must. A researcher who has done through testing would be able to weigh in more on this. I am not that guy, unfortunately.
Wouldn't it help to create an extra gasket for the interface of the FilterCap and the main mask? to avoid particles being inhaled from the contours of the front Cap
I get the impression that crimping the filter with the cap does a good job. Hopefully the NIH can test this more and determine if a better seal is necessary.
hello! am a nurse/NP working in the hospital in Las Vegas ( i can give you my credentials if you want). can i buy at least 10 from you ill milk all of them N(% is pretty scarce and as a big headed buff guy its hard to find one that fits, please help
@ Don Empresario I have been recommending that people use makexyz.com (or similar) to find a local print shop to make some for them. This will be much faster than I am. My production is tied up with friends and family at the moment. I hope this works for you. Maybe try one first! Stay safe out there.
Hello my friend. Im into wood working and i cant find a mask that realy fits my face. Can you make a mask that fits my face? i would pay you for this. Apreciate your time.
The 3D Handyman nice work I'm sure the file is good. thinkgivers again is screwed up I don't understand why they had to change what was once working g well . Guess will have to wait till it s up and running
@@The3DHandyman While I know this type of work may be exhausting, I want to thank you for doing what you have so far, and encourage you to keep going. Designs like these are literally going to save lives
I definitely can't be the first person to suggest this- but have you ever thought of doing some voice over work? Great video, I'll definitely be giving this a go.
Thanks Zorro! Check out the Mask V3 video if you haven't already. Currently I have some other projects that are taking up all my time. Maybe one day I can take another crack at this...
Please understand the limitations of this mask. PLA is porous so don't expect this to protect you 100% from pathogens like covid. The PLA needs to be coated with some type of sealer to ensure all the voids are filled.
Safer than wrapping a bandanna around your face, or those "masks" people are sewing together from rags. Also, what makes you qualified to give advice on PPE? Are you some sort of expert? If not, you're a hypocrite.
Try printing them separately and using "detect thin walls" type of feature? Just a guess that your slicer may be sealing them ahead of time. Also, the strap locks are not the best design. There may be better ones out there that would work fine with this mask. I have also seen people tie the bands off at the length that fits them well.
while this is really cool.. make something to fit on a full face snorkel mask snorkel tube. P95 filters for masks are trapezoidal or round and may actually be available still. Removable top snorkel masks are probably still available. remove top snorkel or cut top breather off and a 3d printed piece to fit and accommodate a P95 filter. Need to protect mouth nose and eyes. In the case of a full face snorkel most of the work would have been done already too. They cost 30 bucks.
Thanks for the comment! I will admit I've spent almost a decade making marketing artwork. That business has no place for this "pride" you speak of. Lol. I hope you can look beyond the clickbait. Thanks for watching, regardless!
Possibly but people have had success with Elmer's school glue and that may be an easier way to smooth the mold. If you try out the sand blast, let us know how it works.
If hospital would use full cpac face masks connected to wall oxygen they would not need any filters. Before entering a virus room suitup. Connect 30 foot hose to wall or a carry scuba tank . Walk in. Positive air flow would not allow outside air to be breathed in. And no filters and can sterilize full face CPAC mask and reuse. Just recharge air tanks. Run hoses from ceiling on tracks to each bed so no one trips on them.
If the print files are not downloading correctly through Thingiverse, try to download them individually. Also, here is a mirror 3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3dpx-013981
I am able to DL using the "FIles" Tab and click on each part individually.
The Same than Jason.
Same than Jason, thanks!
Wasn't able to download them all at once, but WAS able to download each file individually w/o issue. Thanks for this!
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qfrhhVtUdYQ23G2471Opp7n4EY2Mssbp?usp=sharing
All 4 files in one download
So, at some dollar trees, you can find food-grade silicone, and in the flashlight/electronics area you can find these sweet forehead flashlights that have awesome straps on them. Grab 2 of them and boom you have adjustable straps!
Standart silicone caulking is not suitable for prolonged skin contact. It has anti-mould agents in it. Please use food-safe silicone caulking or aquarium caulking (as water+fish have contact with the caulking 24/7 some consider it even better than food-safe).
Good info! Thanks for the comment.
Great logic.. I found this one on a local e-shop, unfortunately no bigger sizes. www.dap.com/dap-products-ph/all-purpose-100-silicone-adhesive-sealant/, seems good?
Sorta-Clear is deemed ok. Frequently used in FX.
I could not find anything that said food safe in home depot. If anyone finds a brand please post. I did buy 100% silicon for kitchen and bath. It had a strong odor and it took 48 hrs to cure. No mold on my face. But I have not worn it for any period of time yet.
@@geort45 Nah, that size would be perfect for applying to a mask. If you had to use a big caulking gun, I think it'd be quite difficult to line the sides lol
Good point on safe filter materials. I have seen some folks using furnace filters but a lot have fiberglass which is a real NO NO. BTW you have an amazing voice. I could listen to you read the phone book
Awesome design, do you mind if I extend it a bit on my channel? I want to add electronics to measure pressure in the mask to calculate breathe rate, and delta of temperature on inhale and exhale. Then use these values to change the colour of embedded led's. This may function as a good indication of proper mask fit, and possibly body temperature. I am going to have the system log values once a second to an SD card so that the result can be analyzed later. I might also try to get my hands on a pulsox module and add that information as well
@
Mikey's Lab Sure Mikey. Feel free to test this version or the version from my first video. I am very interested in the results, whether positive or negative. Sorry about the late reply! I have been swamped with comments and missed this one somehow.
2:44 ....This is SPARTA!!
The valve is easy, some models use a tiny hole with a piece of rubber on top that flaps open when breathe out. Have you tried making the face part off pla and use heat to mold it to your face?
Great job. I've got two curing right now. This mask rendered all the Montana masks that I made, well they are undesirable now. You wouldn't have time to create a mold for those would you? I'm trying in Blender but I just don't know the tool well enough yet.
In theory a silicone seal could be make separately and then glued into the mask for the Montana Masks. The glue is expensive tho and can off-gas a lot. That's the main reason I went with the looping structure to get it to adhere better on its own. How did the 2 masks turn out?
AMAZING JOB
I know people are asking about exhalation valves to decrease moisture and heat, but bypassing the filter on exhalation defeats the real purpose of using a mask out in public. Protecting others from the wearer's infection.
mask only good if everyone use one, if everyone use one then the virus will get caught on their mask. you need an exhalation valve on mask if you wear it for prolonged use
Do you have any links to the different grill covers you made?
They are now uploaded except for Hannibal Lecter. That one didn't have enough breathing area in my opinion.
I am going to print one and give it a go. Is there any way you can implement an exhaust valve to keep eyeglasses from fogging up? Thanks!
Incorporate on the front a 60mm fan that blows out so that it can act as a shield from the virus and helps the filter be more clean!!
I attempted this once and noticed the mold was not mating properly with the mask, but tried anyways. Working with the silicone caulk was an absolute nightmare; it gets everywhere and has very intense fumes. Since the mold and mask did not mate well, the seal was not great, but the process worked overall.
I changed some slicer settings and just printed a 50% scale of both mask and mold and they still do not fit together. I'm not sure if this is because of uneven cooling during the mold's printing. The mask fits with the filter cover no problem so I suspect the mold is to blame. I'm considering scaling the mold up by a small factor to get a better mate. Has anyone else had these issues?
I use simplify3d and increased the mold by 1% and the mask fits a lot better. Also I found a new profile for S3D that makes the prints really smoother. Yes the silicone can stink the house out but there are types that do not smell. I use sikaflex ebt+ which does not smell,I got lucky. It still takes a good 24 hours to cure. I have a large proboscis so the nose part needs attention but overall the molds are turning out quite well. Of course they are only temporary and will need renewing . If it's any help make the nozzle of the silicone tube small but not too small so you have control the flow. I fill and smooth the mold first then marry the mask to it and put the silicone tube through the front on the mask to seal the inside edges. I leave it outside in the shade under cover for a day. Even though I have greased the mold the silicone still sticks as the mask is being peeled off so I use a small knife to help separate the silicone from it.
@@slicedpage Thanks for the advice, I'll try increasing the mold by 1% and give it another shot. I had no problem curing or getting the silicone out on my last attempt, it was really just the mold (using Sil-Bond)
@@ollie-d you are welcome. I wear glasses so I am trying to remake this to allow for them, not easy but then that is half the fun:)
@@slicedpage Just printed my 50% model's mold at 51% and it fits perfectly! I'll give the full-sized one another shot. You might want to consider mentioning the 1% trick on the NIH Exchange page, I'm sure it will help others. Once I get a good print I plan on posting a comment as well
@@ollie-d well done. When I first read you made a 50% mold I thought geez that guy must have a small face or he's making a mask for his cat:) Now I understand. I'll check out NIH, cheers
❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️Important!! Important!!❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️❗️
always use Breathing Valve (such as 3M 6889 and 3M 7583) to make sure exhaled air will not return to the filter, because moisture will damage the filter fiber and remove static electricity, significantly weaken the mask function.
for most people you do not want a valve. we should be wearing masks to protect each other. A valve lets your pottentially infected breath out unfiltered.
It is great, but i can't find the part on thingiverse. I tried clicking the download button and it gives me 404 not found. :(
Try it now. It should be working.
I couldn't download all files at once. I had to go to the "Thing Files" section and download each one separately.
@@CodyRT9120 that worked. Thanks :)
please re upload your file ! i try to a lot time alott way ( always : 404 error )
What type of printer is that?
Prusa i3 Mk3. Its ok. There are better cheaper options these days.
@@The3DHandyman you have an email? I'm new to all of this and would really appreciate a bit if direction.
@@NoemisDad77 Any time the3dhandyman@gmail.com
Maybe this is because I've just been watching Star Trek Voyager, but your voice reminds me of Tuvok
LOL he certainly does. I think he is Tuvaks great grandson 6 times removed.
Another idea that's super helpful to maximize fit: you can thermoform PLA. This means you can print the mask (and/or a scaled mask to fit smaller/larger faces), and THEN place the seal area (after silicone sealing) into boiling water for a few seconds, shake it off, and thermoform to the user's face and hold for a minute while it cools back down. Also, Ease Release 200 is a great mold release for this (as I've verified personally), and XTC-3D is great for coating/sealing the PLA and getting the silicone to bond more strongly to the PLA. Lastly, the best silicone I've tried for this mask is FDA-approved food-safe acetone silicone (acetone does not usually mean food safe, and likely not skin safe either, so check on the "food-safe" part as well), while most (not all) professional mold silicones/polysiloxanes don't have the surface tension to stay in the seal caster like they're supposed (else you get a puddle of silicone instead). Brushable silicones may work well, but I haven't tried them.
Hope that helps! And good luck!
I'm glad you didn't get to output valves. They defeat some of the point pod the masks, because while the masks do protect you, they are also protecting others if you are carrying the virus but aren't showing symptoms. The output valves would slow your ejections some, but you should ideally be both inhaling and exhaling through your filter material
Correct me if I'm wrong here; the size of COvid19 is supposedly .124 micron but it rides on the back of a droplet once it's spewed out of your nose or mouth and the droplet is a lot bigger 1-5 microns so that why cotton is effective. Of corse a purpose built filter material will filter lower sizes but is cotton not OK?
This is brilliant actually! Such a great mix of achievable and functional! 2.75 is still peanuts for people with access to these tools! The trade off between cost and complexity vs quality is fantastic.
Alsp; looking forward to seeing your new desk.
I bought one in argentina for the equivalent price of 2 dollars with included shipping during the day from a small 3d print shop. Its using this exact design, and they even let me choose in black and with the hex grill. And they included 10 ANMAT certified filters with it.
Made a second batch and decided to try something other than vaseline. I had really good results with Elmers liquid glue. The stuff you get for kids school projects. 4 layers on the mold for the face seal, let them dry between layers, takes like 10 mins total. Then apply silicone and shape it accordingly. When I went to remove it, came off cleanly from the mold, and then I peeled the elmers glue from the silicone face seal and it was like peeling it from my hands except less satisfying. I may or may not have applied it to my hands and peeled it off while waiting for the silicone to set fully >.>
The glue really worked?? No fails?? Maybe I'm not sanding it good enough?
Wax paper worked really well for me.
I just used a thumb nail to get it to conform to the mold, then cut off the excess. When I went to remove it, the mask just lifted away except on the outer edge where I was a bit sloppy with the silicone and managed to get it over the sides, but even that separated easily. Removing the wax paper from the silicone was a little harder, but not more than peeling a label off of a medicine bottle. It was finicky and took a while, but left a very clean result... except for a two places where the paper creased. On my next attempt I cut some wedges where the paper had trouble following the curvature of the mold.
YOU HAVE REACHED THE END OF THE THINGIVERSE.
THERE IS NOTHING AWESOME HERE...
YET.
i have that problem too. the page dont allow me to download any files at all
I'm afraid to say the same.... the end of time as we know it :(
Download the parts individually, worked fine for me.
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4292905/files
@@andreeppinghaus Same problem with yours...
Has this been sent to the NIH 3D printing exchange? They might be able to give more insight into the effectiveness of the design against viruses!
Thanks for the idea. The design has been submitted. Hopefully they will have a chance to test it out. If they get a chance, I will post their assessment here.
The silicon mold is genius thanks for the great tutorial and all the hours of work i'm sure this took.
I am not really mechanically inclined, and the shakes I get from Parkinson's doesn't help. Is this design being sold by you or anyone? I would really like to get 2 ( my son and I) Thank you for your time.
I found this company online [O2 Canada] that has superior, medically approved, respirators out of Canada. I intend to order from them as soon as I have an extra $70-$80 [70+estimated shipping to the US for one mask]. As a retired nurse, these look very comfortable and effective, and the company has a great ethical foundation. Read their "About" page. o2canada.com/
This is awsome, wish I would have bought that 3D printer before all this started. I would pay for a pair of those mask awsome design. I would probably use a different silicone like aquarium silicone though.
You should make more models and whatever model works best you should sell
I actually did design a 4th version for potential sale but the person that was "funding it" was grossly incompetent and the whole thing fell through after months of work. If I have time one day, I'll make a video on that version.
I work for a "mail service" and I have a 3M respirator. I wore it for 3 days and then they said I can't wear it anymore. It's against the rules, because I'm sure OSHA requires training to use them in our facility, and they don't want to pay for the training. I wonder if getting this made would be a loop hole for me to wear a filter, since i would classify this not really a respirator. I don't want to wear their paper masks or cloth masks because whats the point if you aren't even fully protected.
Put a bandana over it.
Putting some activated charcoal between filters will make this mask unstoppable.
Been busy designing cover skin for my cat s60
Well done! The designs of masks that can be disinfected and used over and over have been evolving rapidly over the last two weeks. This is the milestone design that I would gladly promote. The elastic waistbands from underwear (new ones still in package, obviously) would be readily available locally at any store, and very comfortable. It would be great if you provided a V2 print-file with attachment points suited for wide elastic bands. Also, if this had print-files in three mask sizes, I couldn't see any further way to improve it.
Thanks for the idea! The modification has been noted. I will see what else people want and then update the files in a few days.
Puedes acelerar el secado de la silicona con pintura acrílica. y si tienes una bomba de vació puede eliminar las burbujas quedando mejor.
También puedes usar látex para el mismo molde aunque es un poco mas engorroso de aplicar.
pero aplicar una capa completa de latex a la mascara como recubrimiento puede sellar los micro poros eficientemente haciéndolo mas segura.
If you use a dixie cup to fill with silicone first, then add a couple of drops of acrylic paint (any color), then mix thoroughly, the silicone will dry much faster and dry solid internally throughout.
standard food coloring will also work, as well as cornstarch, though cornstarch will quickly turn the silicone to a putty like consistency.
The only thing I HATED about this was the silicone seal. I feel like a TPU gasket would probably have been best. Also, the silicone seal would in no way last. It would be gone within a few weeks at best in my opinion.
The silicone seal was on the thin side to improve comfort but it is hardly robust. I think the weight of the mask makes it less than enjoyable to wear long term regardless of the seal. Updates for both masks are in the works. I think version 1 will get printed in TPU and this version will get a silicone seal that doesn't come out of a tube. ETA is probably a few weeks.
The screw attachment is a good idea but screws with a knurled head so you don’t need a screwdriver as well as threading the mask so you don’t need to bits would make it easier to change out filter media. Not having access to a screwdriver or dropping one of the nuts would render the mask out of service.
Can you make an adapter for a Roomba 700 Series HEPA Filter? These filters are small enough they could be used in a mask. If you can post a "blank" front piece (solid, with no cutout for filter media) I could probably design it as I have a few of the filters on hand.
great improvements!
If you want to improve the fit for wearing glasses, you can make a small recess (some kind of a sharp dent) in the nose area of the mask, in which the glasses frame can sit properly. Another improvement could be an exhalation to prevent the filter from getting wet through the escape of water from your breath. The disadvantage would be that the exhaled air is not filtered and can contain exhaled viruses, unless you also filter the exhaled air.
that looks good. but I see a lot of ppl on yt not taking porous surface of the mask into consideration. I think it could be a problem when you try to sanitize this properly. maybe ABS with acetone vapor bath and silky smooth surface. just an idea
Have you tried wearing that for 4 hours straight? I bet it isn't very comfortable to wear.
Yup. It weighs too much to be comfortable long term wear. A lot of people like it but personally I prefer the first mask from my first video. The last few weeks I have wearing it while cutting and sanding wood up to 8 hours a day. At only about 10 grams it's really easy to forget that its on my face. I am going to do a new video in a few weeks with updated designs. The goal is to cut about half the weight out of this version.
I really really love this mask design! However I would like to ask for two important changes 1.) make the mask walls thicker, about twice as thick for durability and to accommodate tolerances on other printers (not everyone can print high quality). I've printed a three of these with PETG and the curved overhangs oftentimes have imperfections in my prints which leaves air gaps. I have printed otherwise flawless masks only to notice that there is an imperfection in one of my prints and i have to toss the whole thing away. 2.) Could you scale this design down to 75% for women and children? (yes i have done it but the screw holes are too small and there is not enough material for the tabs). I tried this mask on my mom and it was too big for her smaller face (maybe have 3 universal sizes? Large Medium and Small). Keep up the good work and by all means im looking forward to your next video and design iteration. :)
How long did it take you to print this?
@@jamprats www.thingiverse.com/thing:4244081 bolivair mask also a great design
@@jamprats it took 3 for the mask, 2hr for the cap and 6 hours for the mold with 20% infill. My layer height was 0.3, but I think that the mask should be 0.2 or 0.15 as even in a near perfect print, occasionally I found holes where the layers start and stop (z seam alignment random is best but sharpest corner or user specified can make the gaps worse) and those holes must be patched with silicone. A thicker mask wall would fix this for a faster rough draft print. If you don't have your PETG stringing under control or desire faster prints, don't print this as you will have holes in the print. That said this design is really good and inspirational. I would love to combine two elements of this mask with the Bolivar mask. The Bolivar mask is more forgiving to rough prints as it has thick walls. But if you do print this mask, do a slower print and higher resolution print with 100% infill.
@@mindsofgreatness thank you for the suggestion, I tried the Bolivar mask and it has thicker walls and these are more forgiving to stringing or rough prints. I'm currently using weather proofing foam tape to form a seal between face and mask, but I think a silicone mold like the one in this you tube video is better along with bolt on filter attachment instead of press fit that the Bolivar mask has. I see both of these masks and wish I could import these into AutoCAD so I could solid model some improvements to both. The Bolivar is more forgiving of holes in the print layer. Currently using 5 walls and 100% infill with .3 layer height, my speed is 40mm/s and the prints take 6 hours but I can fit two masks to a 200mm x 200mm bed which is great for speed.
one of the things that i think should be done after this mask is printed is to also apply a thin layer of silicone to the interior of the wall as sealant in case of small holes or fractures, this way even with draft prints this mask can still be usable. I really really love this design, i think that a future mod would be a valve cover for the front piece. I will try to design one when i have the free time.
One thing on the professional masts is that there is a one way valve. If you want to add one, for a buck or less... you can get CPR face shields (25 on amazon for 17 bucks shipped). These are one way valves and a plastic used for giving CPR to someone without actually having to touch them. If you add it to your mask design, remember that you want it pointing down / towards yourself. Estimates now are that 50% of contagious people may not be showing any signs... So you wear masks to protect others more then protecting yourself (6 feet does a better job at that). So adding a one way valve defeats that. But if it's pointing at your own cloths, it should be the best of both worlds.
The glasses should not be wore behind/under the mask, but out of it, or the mask could not be sealed enough to prevent microscopic drop to fly out. But the project is really cool!!!
The good thing about version one is that it's so cheap it can be disposable, version 2, would give people ideas about washing it, and 3d printing is not food safe because bacteria/viruses/fungi can collect in the layer lines and microscopic crevices, where water or disinfectant can't get to due to liquid surface tension. If one were to dip the entire thing in resin or go through the trouble of sanding, priming and painting, that problem would be solved, but it would untimely defeat the purpose of being an easy to print mask.
agreed. for food-safe applications though, it's common to use a material that you can smooth chemically. ABS becomes the common choice due to price, ease of smoothing, and its temperature resistance - the main caveat is dealing with the shrinkage that often occurs during printing for parts that need to be assembled with tight tolerances.
k...…….. Imagine you wear glasses…………….. imagine you have to Keep objects close to your eyes, to realize all details. Bumping the Mask is normal in that case. what About includet muffling pillows? ;)
If we're gonna pretend SARS-COV2 is airborn, you still have things wrong. You need sealed eye protection. The material from the 3d printer may not be fully air tight.
A 180 degree face shield should be plenty enough, it'll probably cover you from droplets for the most part.
The purpose of the masks is to assume that that wearer has the ccp virus. Not to prevent from catching it. Unless the wearer is shooting liquid from their eyes like a certain lizard can. In which case getting sick would be the least of my concerns.
@@grinningtiki220 Masks decreases risks of being infected. Do you not understand how transmission work? Droplets fly from nose and mouth onto other peoples eyes, nose, and mouth. If you protect your mouth, eyes and nose you will not be infected. The tiniest droplets could find their way through the mask, depending on how good the mask is, but you've already reduced the risk by now.
Not wearing any form of eye protection while wearing a mask makes the mask only prevent you from infecting others.
Don't listen to WHO and CDC, they're seemingly clueless and heavily political. KHO has actually proven themselves competent and have guidelines that are much different from WHO and CDC... Look at the difference between SK and US/Europe.
Hi! I really like your project. I want to design and print my own original one, but Your is the best i've found so far and I also have few questions, maybe You could help me. So first is : how did you find the best (the most perfect) universal shape of the main part of the mask (The part which sticks to face)? Did You find it somwhere or just tried printing few shapes ? Also have you done some research or experiments to find out the effectivness of diffrent filteres? I need to find the best one. Thanks and peace!
Hi Marcin! I used the model of my head that I developed for the V1 mask video. From there I just tried to mimic the shape and function of a high end respirator's silicone seal. The caulk-based mold was just a way to make it happen with readily available materials. Be sure to use food safe 100% silicone for the mold that does not have mold-resistant agents in it.
Until I printed the V3 mask, I was using this version most and for a filter I just used a cut to size KN95 mask. I think that HVAC filter material is more breathable but it is very important to check with the manufacturer to confirm that there is no unsafe material in the filter itself (like fiberglass).
@@The3DHandyman Hi! I'm progressing with my own project and I have some new issues to solve, and also some information about the filtration. Maybe You could contact me via email: maarcinmuraat@gmail.com . I would like to ask few questions and maybe i can give You some practical tips ! Thanks and best regards
I think a reed valve could work for exhaust, can print to ideal flexibility and you have the glossy finish from a glass bed. Fewer parts is always better. Cheers.
I have one now on Thingiverse.
For better filter material hold you can use metal mesh. Can buy it in Dollar Tree. Also, thermal glue works really well with PLA, and you can easily and securely glue mesh to the mask.
Ingenious idea with the silicone mold!
How did you make 3d model of the mask matching to your face? It is difficult to measuring all the curves.
Watch my first video. That explains the process.
@@The3DHandyman Thank you!
How did you make the silicone mold portion? I designed a mask and have been trying to get a similar result. One thing i actually dis was pour gelatin/glycerin mold material over my mask, and then cast a mask in silicone. But i want to try this way. So how do i make that mold portion to match my mask? I use sketchup pro as my modeler:)
Hi, i am really impressed with your work, and i am building one of your masks right now. I'd like to ask if you were interested in a small collaboration; i have some suggestions for improvement. How could i contact you?
Thanks for the offer! I have been flooded with similar requests lately and, to be honest I need to move on to making something things that I can sell eventually. I have been self employed for the last few months and didn't expect the economy to grind to a halt 1 month after I quit my job. As for revisions for this version, feel free to post them on the Thingiverse page and I will try to incorporate them into the next minor revision. The comments on that page are easier to brows than this one.
@@The3DHandyman Thanks for your reply. I have been self employed for a year myself, and now i found myself grounded at home in Covid19 lock-down....In that manner, i wish you the best!!!!
Let me allow one last question though- do you think you could share the original CAD files? I work with Solidworks or Fusion- That would make incorporation of changes to the model a lot faster. Thanks in advance. Stay healthy.
@@nureddinbennett5846 Sorry the parts were made in Blender, so there are no CAD files available.
@@nureddinbennett5846 You can import the stl files into Fusion 360 and convert them to a solid body. It is pretty easy. I have did it several times on other designs and made modifications. Search youtube as there are a lot of videos how to do it.
I did feel very self conscious at first when I walked outside with this on but because all normality has changed everyone I encountered thought nothing of it . Heck you could walk around town wearing a space suit and no one will bat an eye.
Crazy times for sure!
Would using a thin CA (super) glue work for smoothing out the surface? Maybe even as a smoothing coat for the entire mask? Would double to make sure all the layers are sealed as well. I’d love a couple of these.
Also, would losing a little surface area for the filter to be able to and a exhalation valve be beneficial? Help prevent possible CO2 build up.
there is a PM2.5 filter that is a common replacement filter for cloth masks. readily available on amazon. could you find one of those perhaps too see if it fits?
also im curious about the stink from the silicone. most silicone's Ive dealt with have a real stink to them.
The silicone smell is not noticeable to me after curing. Ymmv based in the product used.
How about adapters for 3M Bayonet to Honeywell North threads and Moldex bayonet to 3M bayonet? These conversion adapters can be simple but life saving, I know some exists but they're not widely available.
To help make these parts you might find this video helpful ruclips.net/video/5bswBv9v9R8/видео.html to get the mold smooth as you can. Sanding takes ages but with a smooth print the job is a lot easier. Also the settings make a fantastic profile for the Ender 3 in Simplify3d.
UPDATE;
In addition to the smooth mold print I tried this method of joining the mask to the mold ruclips.net/video/_nXy1j5b6q0/видео.html. First use the silicone to line the edges of the mask. Then with the video tut make enough 'dough' to line the mold, but be quick.Smooth it out then join the mold to the mask. I gave it 12 hours to set but this was my first attempt and I believe it set a lot quicker than that. Of course the raw silicone still takes 24hrs to really set but the main thing is the mold is easily removed. (vaseline) I would recommend smoothing the silicone at the join from the inside of the after an hour or so. Of course all this accounts for diddly squat without the 3D Handyman's outstanding design. It is a thing of beauty and will save lives.
Thanks for putting the time in to design a functional mask. Can I make a suggestion? Use ABS to make the silicone mold instead of PETG or PLA. ABS can be smoothed using Acetone vapor and the resulting finish is like glass.
This design is not safe for more than a few minutes. Because it seals around the face, carbon dioxide will build up on the inside of the mask behind the filter. Masks without valves should be loose around the face. Note that the 3M respirator has a valve. There are in-depth articles on the Internet about this problem. I suggest looking for a design that is approved by the National Institute for Health (NIH).
So to download the files go to the website linked Below the picture it will have tabs click on the one that says 3 Thing Files. There should be individual files to print, so print the 3 files instead of the ones all at once.
Correct. There are 4 thing files now and to make this you would need 1 of each
Dude you need to go over the top of the mask with a filler. You should know that at a microscopic level 3d printing is not perfect, there will be holes and gaps between the layers. It does not matter how good of a printer you have. You need to sand the outside of the mask, put a filler in it and sand it smooth followed by a paint job. Any small imperfections in the mask can put people at risk. Especially people with shitty printers.
Pam cooking spray works better than petroleum jelly, imo.
I rubbed a candle and softned it using a heat gun. It erased all lines and now I have a permanent anti stick coating.
@@ViniciusVetor Nice idea, I'll have to try that!
I don't know if it's been suggested before, but what about using an abs plastic for the silicon mold, and then using an acetone treatment to get it smooth without sanding? I have no experience with 3d printing and i dont know if this would work
Hey man I kept watching some other videos
And theres one thing you are missing .
You need to put a one way valve (checkvalve) and youwant to make an (out going valve).
Just a quick note that the screws should be 8-32, not 8/32. They are very different beasts.
Thank you so much. I built it and am very impressed. I also appreciate the prior video with the Blender info.
You are amazing! Thanks for sharing your knowledge.. Your action will result in more live saved! Thank you
After watching your first video I started thinking about a much more comfortable material to be on your skin such as rubber silicone and it had to food graded to prevent any dangerous inhalation... hit the spot! Lol
As a representative of my hospital's PPE innovation group, I would be wary of this considering lack of clinical testing. While non-human data suggests the materials have some degree of filtration and that CDC rec's suggest a cloth mask is better than nothing that I agree with, items like this can give a false sense of security regarding how much protection is given when there is not firm clinical data with this device in particular. This can lead to users putting themselves in situations they would not otherwise that portends risk. That does not mean that this device does not provide protection, but as a clinician with experience conducting clinical research I assume that any device that lacks clinical data offers zero protection until proven otherwise given clinical standards given my training.
I agree. If someone in the medical field is able to test this design with professional test procedures and equipment, that would be the only thing that legitimizes this design or any other 3D printed design for that matter. This mask has been submitted to the NIH 3D printed registry and I hope that someone is able to review it and approve it for community wear or reject it outright. Regardless of their findings, I will post the results in the description.
Excellent job! Very creative solution. One problem I am having with my two layer cotton mask is that It feels pretty good at first, but as it gets loaded down from my moist exhale it starts getting hard to breath in both direction. Am looking for a exhaust value 3d printed design. Have you come across anything like that? Again, great video. Thank you.
Thanks for noting this as an issue! I think there are some designs out there that include valves but I have not tried any of them personally. A lot of people have requested this an I may work on it at some point in the next few months but likely not before then. If you feel that your breathing gets labored with this design, it may be a good sign that it is not an appropriate solution. Please be safe!
Go onto EBay and find a real respirator and some filters. They're still available, just way over-priced. The advantage is more surface area to breathe thru, and of course the exhaust valves.
You can also find the "one way valves" on Amazon.com ; both will take about the same time to get them; except that the real respirator from E-Bay will work for you better. It'd take some rigging to get it to insert ..
Where I work masks with output valves are not allowed as they do not protect others from the mask wearer.
I've seen reports that this type of one-cure silicone can be bad for skin contact even after curing. Have you tested this out against a face for a few days?
Do you have a link to an article about this? It's a good thing to keep in mind, regardless. I used NSF certified caulk so I would consider that generally safe for skin contact but people can have silicone allergies or possibly other issues. This mask has not been tested for longer than a few hours at a time. No negative effects were experienced during that time.
@@The3DHandyman Dang. I didn't save the link where I found it. It was a crafting link about making... jewel clusters? They had no citations, just said that this type of cure caulk could irritate skin. So I have no confirmation.
@@The3DHandyman I don't have any articles, but this "kitchen/bath silicone" contains mold growth inhibitors, which can be irritating to skin. Aquarium silicone would be a better option if food grade silicone isn't available, as it doesn't contain any additives as far as I'm aware.
I read that there might be issues with porosity of printed masks and the multiple cavities that you have between layers that can lead to the virus to fit in.
This mask is printed solid to help reduce the occurrence of micro cracks. Regularly sanitizing any reusable equipment is also a must. A researcher who has done through testing would be able to weigh in more on this. I am not that guy, unfortunately.
May it is better to use some kind of foil between the molding form and the mask?
Wouldn't it help to create an extra gasket for the interface of the FilterCap and the main mask? to avoid particles being inhaled from the contours of the front Cap
I get the impression that crimping the filter with the cap does a good job. Hopefully the NIH can test this more and determine if a better seal is necessary.
You could use Automotive spray putty filler to smooth the surface of the mold
Really well designed. Superb work!
Maybe print the lower in ABS and just acetone smooth it?
GoatZilla I had the same idea!
Even if you dry it well there is a chance some acetone will remain in the plastic and be breathed in during use, keep this in mind!
hello! am a nurse/NP working in the hospital in Las Vegas ( i can give you my credentials if you want). can i buy at least 10 from you ill milk all of them N(% is pretty scarce and as a big headed buff guy its hard to find one that fits, please help
@
Don Empresario I have been recommending that people use makexyz.com (or similar) to find a local print shop to make some for them. This will be much faster than I am. My production is tied up with friends and family at the moment. I hope this works for you. Maybe try one first! Stay safe out there.
This is awesome. Great work and I would love to see version 3 👍👏
Hello my friend. Im into wood working and i cant find a mask that realy fits my face. Can you make a mask that fits my face? i would pay you for this. Apreciate your time.
I would like to but I'm currently working 100 hours a week and need less work, not more.
What seems to be the trouble with the fit on most masks?
The 3D Handyman nice work I'm sure the file is good. thinkgivers again is screwed up I don't understand why they had to change what was once working g well . Guess will have to wait till it s up and running
@La Nature 1 It seems to be a very buggy and slow website in general. What seems to work for people is downloading each file individually.
@@The3DHandyman Yes Sir that's what i did thank you for all your effort. Stay safe The 3D Handyman. Regards
Please continue improving this filter design.
I will completely redesign the 3M respirator at some point but I want to take a break for a little while.
@@The3DHandyman While I know this type of work may be exhausting, I want to thank you for doing what you have so far, and encourage you to keep going. Designs like these are literally going to save lives
@@Smur95 stay in Corona-ville and save us all...
I definitely can't be the first person to suggest this- but have you ever thought of doing some voice over work? Great video, I'll definitely be giving this a go.
Who knows, I may have a Fiverr account in my future...
Very good please more on this.
Thanks Zorro! Check out the Mask V3 video if you haven't already. Currently I have some other projects that are taking up all my time. Maybe one day I can take another crack at this...
Is anyone willing to use their 3D printer to sell me some parts? I'm an essential and all of the local printing places are asking absurd prices...
Contact me through my channel's about page
Please understand the limitations of this mask. PLA is porous so don't expect this to protect you 100% from pathogens like covid. The PLA needs to be coated with some type of sealer to ensure all the voids are filled.
I can send you printed parts for free but I'm almost out of filament, haven't been able to restock because of the printed PPE craze lol
@@EphemeralPseudonym The first commenter said he would sell me some parts, maybe someone out there needs it though
Please don't make this. This is horribly unsafe. It's the equivalent of taking medical advice from Dr. Phil.
Safer than wrapping a bandanna around your face, or those "masks" people are sewing together from rags.
Also, what makes you qualified to give advice on PPE? Are you some sort of expert? If not, you're a hypocrite.
What is that thing you used for fixing the elastic? Couldn’t find it in description... Lugs? Locks? What’s is it called?
I think you are talking about the "strap locks". Those don't work well. Search for "Tri-Glide" instead. Those will work better
I'm not sure why all my strap locks are printing sealed... tried them on 2 different printers!🤬 What am I doing wrong?
Try printing them separately and using "detect thin walls" type of feature? Just a guess that your slicer may be sealing them ahead of time. Also, the strap locks are not the best design. There may be better ones out there that would work fine with this mask. I have also seen people tie the bands off at the length that fits them well.
Amazing job and very well explained
while this is really cool..
make something to fit on a full face snorkel mask snorkel tube. P95 filters for masks are trapezoidal or round and may actually be available still.
Removable top snorkel masks are probably still available. remove top snorkel or cut top breather off and a 3d printed piece to fit and accommodate a P95 filter. Need to protect mouth nose and eyes. In the case of a full face snorkel most of the work would have been done already too. They cost 30 bucks.
Nice job
Absolutely love your videos man! Its 4 am but still watching 😈
Many more on the way. Feel free to subscribe!
@@The3DHandyman already have😎
could try covering your 3d prints with acrylic sealant or something to close any pores in your print.
Very true! Another one I have heard about but have not tried is coating them with a thin layer of epoxy resin.
Best and quickest I've seen yet ...
Then you haven't seen many
Your content is good enough that you don't need to resort to clickbait thumbnails. Have some pride in your work
Thanks for the comment! I will admit I've spent almost a decade making marketing artwork. That business has no place for this "pride" you speak of. Lol. I hope you can look beyond the clickbait. Thanks for watching, regardless!
Would a silicone sand blast work for smoothing the surface of the silicon piece?
Possibly but people have had success with Elmer's school glue and that may be an easier way to smooth the mold. If you try out the sand blast, let us know how it works.
If hospital would use full cpac face masks connected to wall oxygen they would not need any filters. Before entering a virus room suitup. Connect 30 foot hose to wall or a carry scuba tank . Walk in. Positive air flow would not allow outside air to be breathed in. And no filters and can sterilize full face CPAC mask and reuse. Just recharge air tanks. Run hoses from ceiling on tracks to each bed so no one trips on them.
@Nunya Business every hospital has oxygen in walls that can be tapped into. Its filter air.