Congrats on 34K subscribers. You have worked hard spreading lots of useful knowledge over the years on your excellent channel. I have just brewed your All Black IPA and your Old Speckled Hen, both very well received at beerclub. Thank you David
Thanks for another great informative video - I am really happy with my plastic fermenters and their ability to pressure ferment and closed transfer. I have seen videos of people putting crazy amounts of pressure on their yeast and being impressed at how fast the process takes! That is a recipe for disaster! Using US-05 I have found that some of the esters (the good ones) are lost with more than 12-15psi. I let the pressure build naturally to 12psi where spunding valve is set and after fermentation is complete, cold crashing the CO2 is absorbed and I have a ready to drink beer! That is for a 23-25Litre batch
Great information as always. You make a great point about homebrewers blaming equipment before themselves but I think this is due to ignorance mostly. This level of information would be great to see with such products.
Many thanks Alan. Yes, for sure it is ignorance I would imagine mostly. What concerns me the most though is when nobody mentions what could have been done to avoid the issue. Generally the focus is that the product failed in some way when frankly it was probably the user either not following the instructions in some way or not making safety checks prior to use.
Thanks david for this great safety video. I’ve just bought a FermZilla all rounder and gas kit etc. So this guide is great for me to do every time. I’m going to look at temp and psi beforehand as I’m planning a ipa. Take care mate. Bri
Always safety first, good video David. Some days ago a thing I saw in a FB-group was that someone managed to ferment in a Fermzilla with the valve closed and beer with some yeast in the lower container. Resulting in an exploding lower container. Not so handy :-)
David how can you find a pressure where your yeast is happy, i just don't get how homebrewers are able to work that out? You didn't explain it either, do you have a paper on yeast research that has data that shows the ideal pressure where yeast is happy??? Ive been fermenting at 25psi and my yeast happily eats all the sugars just like a non pressure fermentation and the beer tastes like normal beer so I assume my yeast is happy. Also I get carbonated beer which is a bonus and is a process that germans have been doing forever called spunding, i just do it at a higher pressure to temperature ratio than a German lager but there's no evidence to suggest its detrimental. I think if it was than guys like Dr hans would have already found out..
This is the sort of information that hobby brewers are unlikely to know much about to be honest. You will not find much that is shared publically and the details that are released to the trade by yeast companies are usually a part of presentations rather than anything shared in writing. Such is the industry. Really this topic is something pretty vast in its entirety but I can provide a quick summary for your interest. Maybe I will make a video on this topic in the future. There is no universal sweet spot. It will vary between different strains of yeast and is also recipe dependant as well being dependant on temperature too. At a brewery level testing will take place mostly starting on the yeasts ability to fully attenuate under pressure. Pressure suppresses fusel alcohols and esters but also the yeasts growth and viability. So the primary concern is that it the yeast is healthy enough for the task at hand but naturally because this is a business time is also a factor. The sweet spot in this case is the fastest speed in which the yeast can fully attenuate along with the desired effect on the end beer. At home time should not be such a large factor. So testing to my mind should be around finding acceptable levels of pressure and temperature that give a pleasing end beer. Within my Facebook group such data is being shared and there is an excel spreadsheet that is being updated over time.
As always, thanks for this David. I think I have a dodgy gas disconnect with check valve that was attached to my spunding valve but thankfully managed to find the problem just in time on Saturday evening; my Corny keg was sitting at around 35PSI! It was a quality disconnect and also fairly new and hardly used so pretty disappointing really. Just one observation; you must get through a crazy amount of C02 with this testing regime to fill a vessel to test the PRV is working on every brew, especially with just SodaStream cylinders? Must be very expensive (I know not as expensive as loss of life or property from an explosion). I guess this is in the typical nature of H & S where this is reasonably the only advice that can be given but down to the individual how to interpret in practice...
Hi Rob, yes very handy. I bought this one some years ago. In Scandinavia they are called "CO2 gun". When I google this then I just get local links,which I guess will be of little use to you but naturally it is just one way. Adding the CO2 using a regulator works just as well, just make sure you set it carefully to not waste much gas.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. Yes I did a bit of googling without much success. I was thinking of getting a mini regulator for Sodastream bottles anyway (for party / mini kegs etc.) so could use that.
It appears to be a modified air compressor blow gun used for blowing out drillings and for other cleaning tasks (I use one to blow out all the dust from the PC heatsink). I just bought a blow gun and fitted John Guest fittings to them.
Curious, what is that fermentation tank in the video called? I’ve been brewing 5 gallon batches and fermenting in 5 gallon Cornelius kegs but the loss of volume due to trub is actually quite significant. I’m looking for a slightly larger vessel to ferment in so I don’t lose 20% of my beer every time. Thank you great vid!
Thank you. This is the “Kegmenter” I have a couple of other videos about it. Its a very handy size for sure. Here is the overview:- ruclips.net/video/KZGBnO6Ky-E/видео.html
I'm trying to find more information about the trigger setup you are using with the sodastream for pressurization but can't find any - can you please point me in the right direction please?
Hey David, If I were to cold crash under pressure, should I remove my blowtie spunding valve or should i leave it on ? (I use a Fermzilla All Rounder 30 L )
David, I didn’t see pressure indication on your testing kit. How do you know the PRV lifted at 2.5 bar (36 psi)? Any cylinder with vapour and liquid CO2 will be many times higher than the pressure wanted (57 bar at 20°C). Please don’t test the function of a PRV without knowing the pressure at which you are testing. Otherwise much appreciated. Cheers.
I agree that this is the far greater preference though the manometer I usually use died during the filming. So I showed this method but said it is best to use regulated equipment with a gauge of course. Once you know the equipment you also know the sound of pressure though, which was another point made.
Thank you for a god video, a question thou about the pressure fermentation is it possible to ferment a lageryeast under pressure at 10-14c? The reason I wonder is that my garagetemperature is in that range now😊. Its a s-189
@@DavidHeathHomebrew so when you are dryhopping under pressure are you closing the pressurevalve to not letting the aroma out or are you having a setpoint? Because now I dropped the hops with the same setpoint as under fermentation. 1bar isch
I have been told to NOT use Starsan on the DuoTight fittings. I’ve had almost all of my crack and fail- I always used StarSan to check for leaks. I don’t know if this is true, but I have been told that. (Otherwise I have no idea why the DuoTite fittings have all failed)
yes, you're not supposed to use un-diluted StarSan on these fittings. Obviously, you're using a diluted mix however the problem is as it dries it concentrates again which eats them. Just use soapy water. Or make sure you rinse them off afterwards with fresh water
Please note that you may add water to the vessel prior to the pressure test. This will use less CO2.
That's a great idea
Yup :)
The main takeaway from this video:
“Pssssss” is the sound of reassurance,
“BANG!” Is not.
Another useful video David.
Haha. I like that, glad you found it useful :)
Congrats on 34K subscribers. You have worked hard spreading lots of useful knowledge over the years on your excellent channel. I have just brewed your All Black IPA and your Old Speckled Hen, both very well received at beerclub. Thank you David
Much appreciated Craig :) Thank you. Great that you are enjoying the recipes, much work goes into those for sure.
Thanks for another great informative video - I am really happy with my plastic fermenters and their ability to pressure ferment and closed transfer. I have seen videos of people putting crazy amounts of pressure on their yeast and being impressed at how fast the process takes! That is a recipe for disaster! Using US-05 I have found that some of the esters (the good ones) are lost with more than 12-15psi. I let the pressure build naturally to 12psi where spunding valve is set and after fermentation is complete, cold crashing the CO2 is absorbed and I have a ready to drink beer! That is for a 23-25Litre batch
Thanks Markus. Yes, exactly. Pressure is not something to go overboard on. As I mentioned in the yeast section :)
Another Great video David, good safety advice! Even I don’t check the PRV every time now I will cheers
Many thanks Ken. Yes the PRV is most important and with fermentation there is also that greater chance of debris compared to using a regular keg PRV.
Great information as always. You make a great point about homebrewers blaming equipment before themselves but I think this is due to ignorance mostly. This level of information would be great to see with such products.
Many thanks Alan. Yes, for sure it is ignorance I would imagine mostly. What concerns me the most though is when nobody mentions what could have been done to avoid the issue. Generally the focus is that the product failed in some way when frankly it was probably the user either not following the instructions in some way or not making safety checks prior to use.
Thanks david for this great safety video. I’ve just bought a FermZilla all rounder and gas kit etc. So this guide is great for me to do every time. I’m going to look at temp and psi beforehand as I’m planning a ipa.
Take care mate. Bri
Cheers Bri. Safety first for sure
Always safety first, good video David.
Some days ago a thing I saw in a FB-group was that someone managed to ferment in a Fermzilla with the valve closed and beer with some yeast in the lower container. Resulting in an exploding lower container. Not so handy :-)
Thanks Chris. Yes the Fermzilla instructions are very clear in advising against this. It is sad to see people not taking notice of such things.
David how can you find a pressure where your yeast is happy, i just don't get how homebrewers are able to work that out? You didn't explain it either, do you have a paper on yeast research that has data that shows the ideal pressure where yeast is happy??? Ive been fermenting at 25psi and my yeast happily eats all the sugars just like a non pressure fermentation and the beer tastes like normal beer so I assume my yeast is happy. Also I get carbonated beer which is a bonus and is a process that germans have been doing forever called spunding, i just do it at a higher pressure to temperature ratio than a German lager but there's no evidence to suggest its detrimental. I think if it was than guys like Dr hans would have already found out..
This is the sort of information that hobby brewers are unlikely to know much about to be honest.
You will not find much that is shared publically and the details that are released to the trade by yeast companies are usually a part of presentations rather than anything shared in writing. Such is the industry.
Really this topic is something pretty vast in its entirety but I can provide a quick summary for your interest.
Maybe I will make a video on this topic in the future.
There is no universal sweet spot. It will vary between different strains of yeast and is also recipe dependant as well being dependant on temperature too. At a brewery level testing will take place mostly starting on the yeasts ability to fully attenuate under pressure. Pressure suppresses fusel alcohols and esters but also the yeasts growth and viability. So the primary concern is that it the yeast is healthy enough for the task at hand but naturally because this is a business time is also a factor. The sweet spot in this case is the fastest speed in which the yeast can fully attenuate along with the desired effect on the end beer. At home time should not be such a large factor. So testing to my mind should be around finding acceptable levels of pressure and temperature that give a pleasing end beer.
Within my Facebook group such data is being shared and there is an excel spreadsheet that is being updated over time.
As always, thanks for this David. I think I have a dodgy gas disconnect with check valve that was attached to my spunding valve but thankfully managed to find the problem just in time on Saturday evening; my Corny keg was sitting at around 35PSI! It was a quality disconnect and also fairly new and hardly used so pretty disappointing really. Just one observation; you must get through a crazy amount of C02 with this testing regime to fill a vessel to test the PRV is working on every brew, especially with just SodaStream cylinders? Must be very expensive (I know not as expensive as loss of life or property from an explosion). I guess this is in the typical nature of H & S where this is reasonably the only advice that can be given but down to the individual how to interpret in practice...
Thanks Tim. All products can fail sadly. I do get through some gas but it's a small price to pay to check for safety.
nice one! looks astronaut grade presentation
Any hints on how much pressure is good for wine yeast? is like just 1-2 psi or something like 8psi?
Thank you. Sorry but I really am not sure. I do make wine but Ive not used pressure. I would probably start at 10 PSI and see how that goes.
Thank you for your videos David, informative!
Many thanks, glad you found it useful :)
Very useful video David
Great to hear Gareth, thank you :)
Great video David. Do you have a link / name for that sodastream trigger valve please? Looks like a handy bit of kit.
Hi Rob, yes very handy. I bought this one some years ago. In Scandinavia they are called "CO2 gun". When I google this then I just get local links,which I guess will be of little use to you but naturally it is just one way. Adding the CO2 using a regulator works just as well, just make sure you set it carefully to not waste much gas.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David. Yes I did a bit of googling without much success. I was thinking of getting a mini regulator for Sodastream bottles anyway (for party / mini kegs etc.) so could use that.
Yes, Sodastream bottles are ideal. Adapters are easy to find for regulators. Just be aware that the threads for sodastream bottles do vary worldwide.
It appears to be a modified air compressor blow gun used for blowing out drillings and for other cleaning tasks (I use one to blow out all the dust from the PC heatsink). I just bought a blow gun and fitted John Guest fittings to them.
Yes, I think that is very likely.
Curious, what is that fermentation tank in the video called? I’ve been brewing 5 gallon batches and fermenting in 5 gallon Cornelius kegs but the loss of volume due to trub is actually quite significant. I’m looking for a slightly larger vessel to ferment in so I don’t lose 20% of my beer every time. Thank you great vid!
Thank you. This is the “Kegmenter” I have a couple of other videos about it. Its a very handy size for sure. Here is the overview:- ruclips.net/video/KZGBnO6Ky-E/видео.html
After that one check this one out:- ruclips.net/video/wcd5mRVJ0Ss/видео.html
I'm trying to find more information about the trigger setup you are using with the sodastream for pressurization but can't find any - can you please point me in the right direction please?
This is something ive had lying around for many years. Ive not seen them sold for some years sadly.
Thanks, it looks like a good idea was working out if I could modify a Pluto gun to do it
Its handy but unregulated of course, so easy does it 🍻🍻😎
Can plastic pressure vessels be cold crashed? If yes, should the pressure be approx 1 bar inside the vessel? Thanks!
Yes, no problem. Having pressure is a good idea, 1 bar will be ideal :)
Hey David,
If I were to cold crash under pressure, should I remove my blowtie spunding valve or should i leave it on ?
(I use a Fermzilla All Rounder 30 L
)
For sure leave it on. You will not need much pressure, 5 PSI will work but you will need to add it via a regulator.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew would you say 13 psi would be alright as well? That way my beer remains carbonated during the cold crashing process?
This is not something that I have tested but I think it should be alright.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew awesome. Once i have tested it, i will share the results on the FB page 😁
Great :)
David, I didn’t see pressure indication on your testing kit. How do you know the PRV lifted at 2.5 bar (36 psi)? Any cylinder with vapour and liquid CO2 will be many times higher than the pressure wanted (57 bar at 20°C). Please don’t test the function of a PRV without knowing the pressure at which you are testing. Otherwise much appreciated. Cheers.
I agree that this is the far greater preference though the manometer I usually use died during the filming. So I showed this method but said it is best to use regulated equipment with a gauge of course. Once you know the equipment you also know the sound of pressure though, which was another point made.
Great job!
Many thanks Jon :)
Thank you for a god video, a question thou about the pressure fermentation is it possible to ferment a lageryeast under pressure at 10-14c?
The reason I wonder is that my garagetemperature is in that range now😊. Its a s-189
Sure, no problem there. It will be cleaner anyway 🍻🍻
@@DavidHeathHomebrew so when you are dryhopping under pressure are you closing the pressurevalve to not letting the aroma out or are you having a setpoint? Because now I dropped the hops with the same setpoint as under fermentation. 1bar isch
I keep the pressure on yes.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew closed or on setpoint?
On a set point.
What is the maximum time required for pressure fermentation ?
It varies depending on yeast type, pressure and temperature.
03:55
What's the gas of this the blue bottle?
CO2
I have used a corny keg with a shortened dip tube. The PRV on it is 130psi. Don’t think I could trigger it if I wanted to.
Yes, very safe way to go, though very limited size wise usually.
@@DavidHeathHomebrew yes effectively four gallon I figure - but less beer means more types to make later!!
Haha, yes that is very true 🍻🍻
i do the same but with another gas inlet and a floating dip tube.
Yes, I use floating dips in all my kegs
Can i use the turbo yeast 24h?
Sure, it is great for distilling.
great info
Many thanks Edd 🍺
I have been told to NOT use Starsan on the DuoTight fittings. I’ve had almost all of my crack and fail- I always used StarSan to check for leaks.
I don’t know if this is true, but I have been told that. (Otherwise I have no idea why the DuoTite fittings have all failed)
yes, you're not supposed to use un-diluted StarSan on these fittings. Obviously, you're using a diluted mix however the problem is as it dries it concentrates again which eats them. Just use soapy water. Or make sure you rinse them off afterwards with fresh water
I was using diluted Starsan, and now just use soapy water. The only reason I mention, is because David mentioned using it on those DuoTite fittings.
Yes, that is why I said diluted star san or soapy water :)
Great and useful advice ....thanks
Thank you :)