Great video Bryan! Just a tip for you on the 410i. You can use the power button as on the meter as your play and stop button. I found this makes it a little bit easier when starting and stopping timed Traverse. Keep up the great work!
Bryan, I've been in the hvac and commercial refrigeration field for about 40 years. I have had my own one man business for about 35 years and am still working. I am 71 years old and I only do residential service now. Your videos and podcasts are among the best if not the best. Thanks. I still learn something new every day. I bought to 410i last year and I find it about a accurate as you can get without a traverse. I just got the Fieldpiece Job Link kit with air probes and they work well and have good range, but the app really can use some work, a lot of work.
Hi Bryan - Thanks for making and sharing such an extensive set of excellent hvac videos. I’m a recently retired electrical engineer and I’ve gotten interested in hvac, mostly because I like to know how things work and I want to add A/C to my home. Anyway, I recently decided to have a Mitsubishi MXZ-4C36NA system installed in my Seattle home and I noted you have a version of the same system. I have a high efficiency gas furnace, which I like, and had hoped to augment it with a split-mine A/C unit (not a heat pump since I don’t need additional heating) and I didn’t want the added complexity and reduction in reliability of a heat pump. However, it seems that most local hvac companies are pushing heat pumps, as is the City of Seattle, so I relented and agreed to have a heat pump installed. I have a question that I’m hoping you can answer as follows: If my heat pump fails (e.g., the reversing valve), how hard would it be to convert the system to cooling only? I envision plumbing around the reversing valve but I don’t know if the electronic modules in the system can be tricked into a permanent cooling mode. Thank you!
I noticed he didn't respond.... but I'm unsure why you think that you are obligated to use the heating side of the system?...Yes, the MXZ-4C36NA is a heat pump capable of cooling and heating, but you are not required to use it for heating. I've got an older version of that system (the MXZ-4B36NA with four indoor heads) and I use it only for cooling....with one exception: If I'm leaving the house for a while during the winter (going overseas vacation etc.) I set the Mitsubishi system to heat if the house temp drops below 50 degrees. I do that to protect water pipes in the house from freezing. When I return, I reset the Mitsubishi to cooling. So far, the Mitsubishi has saved the house pipes only once.... :-) But, that is all it took for me to be very happy with the heat pump capabilities... 🙂
I love your videos and podcast ..keep up with the good work ... i have the same set of testo love then so far ..for the money i dont think you can ask for more..
Very important information for those of us who use Text Tools, since the tools are sold in Latin America, it would be good to subtitle the videos in Spanish, thanks for the tips.
Thank you. This is very helpfull. I am from Indonesia. In Indonesia generally and mostly use ductless split system. And all this time I wonder how to correctly measure the output to get to know that the system is already working properly after installation, after cleaning, or after repairing.
Hi, Please if you can do more videos for Mini split, diagnostics and charging. We have here in Bosnia a lot of mini split with Capilary tube , so maybe in US this is rare case. I just start to use Testo and measure quick app
I have a GL-series Mr Slim two head system. Is there any way for me, as a homeowner, to know how many BTU the system is presently putting out, as it's an inverter? Like get an instant BTU and/or amps reading?
OK, so you go through all that and found your 12,000 btu unit is putting out 8,500 btu.What happened then, are you OK with that? Is that somehow normal or can something can be done to increase the performance.When your calculating a system should you not use the rated capacity of a unit?
These systems aren't what most of you are used too. These are a residential version of larger multi zone VRF systems. The reduced capacity you are seeing is a function of the control algorithms and the electronic linear expansion valve that is being used for metering of refrigerant. These systems are intended to maintain plus or minus one half of one degree space temp. It's not an on or off type of control. If you were to introduce a false load into the space you would eventually see full rated capacity.
Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I recently had 2) 24,000 btu units installed and I would be very disappointed if the units only produced 75% of the rated output. I know the units produce variable cooling as the room temp gets close to the setpoint but if you set the thermostat 8-10 degrees lower than the room temp I certainly seems like the units ramp up to full capacity.If I would have known I would get less than the rated capacity I may have wanted one of the units larger. Thank you both very much for taking the time to reply
Great video Bryan! Just a tip for you on the 410i. You can use the power button as on the meter as your play and stop button. I found this makes it a little bit easier when starting and stopping timed Traverse.
Keep up the great work!
Bryan, I've been in the hvac and commercial refrigeration field for about 40 years. I have had my own one man business for about 35 years and am still working. I am 71 years old and I only do residential service now. Your videos and podcasts are among the best if not the best. Thanks. I still learn something new every day. I bought to 410i last year and I find it about a accurate as you can get without a traverse. I just got the Fieldpiece Job Link kit with air probes and they work well and have good range, but the app really can use some work, a lot of work.
Dp you have room for employment. For I have been in this for two years and looking for employment. Thanks
alisonatuhurire@gmail.com
Thank you for your videos man. They're a great help to the continued learning for myself and the guys I forward them to 👍 it's appreciated.
Great Tutorial! It would be interesting to see the current/amps based on the various speed settings and how the unit ramps up/down
Hi Bryan - Thanks for making and sharing such an extensive set of excellent hvac videos. I’m a recently retired electrical engineer and I’ve gotten interested in hvac, mostly because I like to know how things work and I want to add A/C to my home. Anyway, I recently decided to have a Mitsubishi MXZ-4C36NA system installed in my Seattle home and I noted you have a version of the same system. I have a high efficiency gas furnace, which I like, and had hoped to augment it with a split-mine A/C unit (not a heat pump since I don’t need additional heating) and I didn’t want the added complexity and reduction in reliability of a heat pump. However, it seems that most local hvac companies are pushing heat pumps, as is the City of Seattle, so I relented and agreed to have a heat pump installed. I have a question that I’m hoping you can answer as follows: If my heat pump fails (e.g., the reversing valve), how hard would it be to convert the system to cooling only? I envision plumbing around the reversing valve but I don’t know if the electronic modules in the system can be tricked into a permanent cooling mode. Thank you!
I noticed he didn't respond.... but I'm unsure why you think that you are obligated to use the heating side of the system?...Yes, the MXZ-4C36NA is a heat pump capable of cooling and heating, but you are not required to use it for heating. I've got an older version of that system (the MXZ-4B36NA with four indoor heads) and I use it only for cooling....with one exception: If I'm leaving the house for a while during the winter (going overseas vacation etc.) I set the Mitsubishi system to heat if the house temp drops below 50 degrees. I do that to protect water pipes in the house from freezing. When I return, I reset the Mitsubishi to cooling. So far, the Mitsubishi has saved the house pipes only once.... :-) But, that is all it took for me to be very happy with the heat pump capabilities... 🙂
I love your videos and podcast ..keep up with the good work ... i have the same set of testo love then so far ..for the money i dont think you can ask for more..
Very important information for those of us who use Text Tools, since the tools are sold in Latin America, it would be good to subtitle the videos in Spanish, thanks for the tips.
I really enjoy these videos. Good job!
Thank you. This is very helpfull. I am from Indonesia. In Indonesia generally and mostly use ductless split system. And all this time I wonder how to correctly measure the output to get to know that the system is already working properly after installation, after cleaning, or after repairing.
Glad it was helpful!
what if you took a return air reading for air flow and not screw around w/ discharge vanes etc/
Hi,
Please if you can do more videos for Mini split, diagnostics and charging. We have here in Bosnia a lot of mini split with Capilary tube , so maybe in US this is rare case. I just start to use Testo and measure quick app
4.5*cfm*change in enthalpy. Just a fancy way of doing it...
Do you do it with filters installed or no
Coupon good? Great video!
I have a GL-series Mr Slim two head system. Is there any way for me, as a homeowner, to know how many BTU the system is presently putting out, as it's an inverter? Like get an instant BTU and/or amps reading?
Thanks Bryan.
Why only 8000 btu when it is a 12000 btu system?
Great video
Hello friend! I have bought a testo 410i. I would like to consult, is it normal for the reel to make a little noise when turning?
Why did you enter 364cfm when the book said 289-321, and your anemometer reading came up with 305?
I moved it to "Very High" airflow in the delivered capacity test
@@HVACS couldn’t we get delivered capacity If we knew the mass of refrigerant moved and the enthalpy of refrigerantentering and leaving the coil?
Good vid
Great 👍👍
I’ve never had to weigh in a charge on an install?????? They come with it in Australia.
In the US they come precharged too but due to different line-set lengths, sometimes we have to add more and that's from the manufacture.
does your cooper run effect your system capacity?
OK, so you go through all that and found your 12,000 btu unit is putting out 8,500 btu.What happened then, are you OK with that? Is that somehow normal or can something can be done to increase the performance.When your calculating a system should you not use the rated capacity of a unit?
Rated capacity is more complicated then just what’s in the model #.
These systems aren't what most of you are used too. These are a residential version of larger multi zone VRF systems. The reduced capacity you are seeing is a function of the control algorithms and the electronic linear expansion valve that is being used for metering of refrigerant. These systems are intended to maintain plus or minus one half of one degree space temp. It's not an on or off type of control. If you were to introduce a false load into the space you would eventually see full rated capacity.
Thanks for taking the time to explain that. I recently had 2) 24,000 btu units installed and I would be very disappointed if the units only produced 75% of the rated output. I know the units produce variable cooling as the room temp gets close to the setpoint but if you set the thermostat 8-10 degrees lower than the room temp I certainly seems like the units ramp up to full capacity.If I would have known I would get less than the rated capacity I may have wanted one of the units larger. Thank you both very much for taking the time to reply
Du français svp
Hello friend from Argentina. I have bought a testo 410i. I would like to consult, is it normal for the reel to make a little noise when turning?