Not that you have bad videos, but this one feels like THE best. You obviously stated that you do like Tair-11, and (THANK YOU!) it's good know that it's a unique design ( I just sought that it is a CZ 135 sonnar ripoff). BUT it has soo smooth bokeh and is has clean look, that is similar to modern lenses. Like amazing Canon 135L 2.0, or Sony 135, and there's Sigma with 105 1.4 and 135 1.8. They all are Faster. Sharper. And have AF. (Crucial for Photo at this Focal range). There's CZ 135 2.0, which is jaw-droppingly sharp (even on 50MP) and creamy smooth (and crazy expensive) So I just keep thinking - what's the point of this one in 2021?
They kind of don’t. It won’t affect aperture performance as these don’t have an auto function. I think the problem may be the oil getting into the glass or oxidizing and leaving a residue on the glass hence effecting your image. Mine had a little oil on the blades and I lived with it for a while. Then got bold and tried taking it apart to clean the blades with a cotton swab. Ended up knocking the blades out of alignment to the point where I had to remove all of them and put them to the side. Got stuck trying to disassemble the lens so it sat on my shelf for a few months before I got brave and gave it another try. I succeeded in reseating the blades and now everything works fine. This lens is surprising simple to take apart. Most things just unscrew once you loosen some retention screws/grubs. I say all that to say this… if you don’t have to take it apart, don’t. But if you need to, it’s not that challenging with the right size screwdrivers and a lens scanner.
@@SWOOP1R They came as such from the factory. From the dozen of these lenses I own one has oil droplets on the glass. Taking apart is never a good idea in my opinion. Yo never will get it back to factory tolerances.
I beg to differ. I’ve taken the Tair 11a apart multiple times. It is a very serviceable lens. Only 2 optical blocks to deal with. My lens works as good as new. Focuses to infinity and back and feels even better with the new synthetic grease I’ve used. It’s daunting, but it’s not witchcraft. I agree that if you don’t have to open one up, then don’t. But, better to try then to throw a perfectly serviceable lens away.
I have a silver one with native m42 mount. Also, it has a 00 serial number. I searched that and found that this 00 numbered lens were special lens reserved for prevailed party members only. But optically I don't find any difference. Also, in my view, this lens doesn't hold well I'd you're talking photos at infinity. But short distance is where it shines. Overall, it is hype that is driving the price. There are Goodland cheap alternatives if you are looking for a m42 135 lens.
Many thanks for your guides they are invaluable - you are the BEST! I've subscribed! BUT I have a problem : I've just bought a Tair-11A in good condition but their is something wrong with the front aperture preset ring. It turns from f2.8 to f22 to with no click-stop detents and the ring slides forward and backward. Do you have a link to or could you make a repair guide for the preset ring? How to get inside it and what is inside it. Mine must be missing a spring or two and maybe a click-top detent pin? Also it is not focusing to infinity, how do I adjust the helicoid to focus to infinity?
it does not need to be repaired, it is normal like this. Your lens has a pre-set aperture feature, please check up my channel, where i explain this feature using a helos 44-2
Как владелец и копий и германских оригиналов, отмечу конечно что оптику на "трофейном" оборудовании и сырье делали не сильно хуже, на снимках почти незаметно, разве что из-за покрытия совковые заметно желтят, а германские немного зеленые и голубые тона усиливают. Зато обмундирование в лучших традициях жигулей, всё люфтит и заедает. В результате для длинного портрета тяжелый экзактовский зоннар выбрал. Надежный как "Тигр", и от ювелирной плавности хода колец можно кончить просто. У нас что-то ближе по качеству сборки начали только в коммерческих 80-х делать, типа Mir-1.
Как диафрагма то залипает то пружинка дохнет и она вообще не работает в этом старые немецкие объективы "очень хороши" 😂 Юпитер 37А вот у него действительно надёжная конструкция в отличии от подавляющего большинства.
Love your work. Your channel is my favourite for helping decide on lens purchases. The round bokeh are beautiful but the chart shots are horrendous. What a disaster . 47% acceptable, varying degrees of sharpness. 13% soft. 27% blurry and 13% mash potato. Im shocked. I really wanted to try this lens for video but its obviously a specialty portrait lens. The Tair two was best by 6 to 12%. The Silver was worst. Please let thiese chart shots be a mistake or at least that this only occurs at wide open as id love to buy this lens.
charts are not mistake. This is vintage lens, please do not compare it to modern ones. Lens is not all about sharpness. These lenses deliver character, modern lenses are deprived of...
rarest tair 11-2 available here www.ebay.com/itm/324635867378
Page to ebay is not working.
I just bought the 11a from a seller in Ukraine. Here's hoping all goes well. This was very pleasant to watch. I'll go check your ebay page.
Thanks for the comprehensive work as always.
Thank you for the informations! :) i am about to receive a delivery with the Tair 11-a and i was curious to know more about this lens
Amazing work as usual!! One of the best review pages! ❤️
Best channel for info on Russian lenses - thanks 🙏 for the educational content.
Another clear and instructive video. If you ever get your hands on a Tair-11T I would love to hear your views.
the Tair-11 is on my wish list! thnx for this video
Excellent useful video 💎
Thank you RB
Excellent comparison
Great video thanks Retro Foto House
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video. Love your channel. Thanks.
Not that you have bad videos, but this one feels like THE best.
You obviously stated that you do like Tair-11, and (THANK YOU!) it's good know that it's a unique design ( I just sought that it is a CZ 135 sonnar ripoff). BUT it has soo smooth bokeh and is has clean look, that is similar to modern lenses. Like amazing Canon 135L 2.0, or Sony 135, and there's Sigma with 105 1.4 and 135 1.8. They all are Faster. Sharper. And have AF. (Crucial for Photo at this Focal range). There's CZ 135 2.0, which is jaw-droppingly sharp (even on 50MP) and creamy smooth (and crazy expensive)
So I just keep thinking - what's the point of this one in 2021?
You pay $200 instead of $2000
Why should a preset lens need cleaning because oil on the blades?
They kind of don’t. It won’t affect aperture performance as these don’t have an auto function. I think the problem may be the oil getting into the glass or oxidizing and leaving a residue on the glass hence effecting your image. Mine had a little oil on the blades and I lived with it for a while. Then got bold and tried taking it apart to clean the blades with a cotton swab. Ended up knocking the blades out of alignment to the point where I had to remove all of them and put them to the side. Got stuck trying to disassemble the lens so it sat on my shelf for a few months before I got brave and gave it another try. I succeeded in reseating the blades and now everything works fine. This lens is surprising simple to take apart. Most things just unscrew once you loosen some retention screws/grubs. I say all that to say this… if you don’t have to take it apart, don’t. But if you need to, it’s not that challenging with the right size screwdrivers and a lens scanner.
@@SWOOP1R They came as such from the factory. From the dozen of these lenses I own one has oil droplets on the glass.
Taking apart is never a good idea in my opinion. Yo never will get it back to factory tolerances.
I beg to differ. I’ve taken the Tair 11a apart multiple times. It is a very serviceable lens. Only 2 optical blocks to deal with. My lens works as good as new. Focuses to infinity and back and feels even better with the new synthetic grease I’ve used. It’s daunting, but it’s not witchcraft. I agree that if you don’t have to open one up, then don’t. But, better to try then to throw a perfectly serviceable lens away.
I have a silver one with native m42 mount. Also, it has a 00 serial number. I searched that and found that this 00 numbered lens were special lens reserved for prevailed party members only. But optically I don't find any difference. Also, in my view, this lens doesn't hold well I'd you're talking photos at infinity. But short distance is where it shines. Overall, it is hype that is driving the price. There are Goodland cheap alternatives if you are looking for a m42 135 lens.
00 is not for party members, this is just pre-series production. Party members were using japan lenses, lol)))
Many thanks for your guides they are invaluable - you are the BEST! I've subscribed!
BUT I have a problem :
I've just bought a Tair-11A in good condition but their is something wrong with the front aperture preset ring. It turns from f2.8 to f22 to with no click-stop detents and the ring slides forward and backward.
Do you have a link to or could you make a repair guide for the preset ring? How to get inside it and what is inside it. Mine must be missing a spring or two and maybe a click-top detent pin?
Also it is not focusing to infinity, how do I adjust the helicoid to focus to infinity?
it does not need to be repaired, it is normal like this. Your lens has a pre-set aperture feature, please check up my channel, where i explain this feature using a helos 44-2
It is often said the flange distance of Zenit, Zenit-S and all the other Zenits with M39 have the same flange distance as M42. So it is not true?
хорошо было бы залить тестовые фотографии чтобы любой мог скачать и посмотреть. спасибо за обзор
Кстати, у Таир 11А ещё и для Пентакса колечки есть для К-маунт. У меня имеются, использую на него и на юпитер-37. Прекрасно работает!
да, есть такое
I hear prices climb.
Have you found stopped down past f5.6 that the centre of the frame has a reduced contrast ?
no, i haven't....
Благодарю
Why no review of Jupiter 37A?
will come in the future for sure
Which is best
Как владелец и копий и германских оригиналов, отмечу конечно что оптику на "трофейном" оборудовании и сырье делали не сильно хуже, на снимках почти незаметно, разве что из-за покрытия совковые заметно желтят, а германские немного зеленые и голубые тона усиливают. Зато обмундирование в лучших традициях жигулей, всё люфтит и заедает. В результате для длинного портрета тяжелый экзактовский зоннар выбрал. Надежный как "Тигр", и от ювелирной плавности хода колец можно кончить просто. У нас что-то ближе по качеству сборки начали только в коммерческих 80-х делать, типа Mir-1.
Очень нравится Юпитер 37А
Как диафрагма то залипает то пружинка дохнет и она вообще не работает в этом старые немецкие объективы "очень хороши" 😂
Юпитер 37А вот у него действительно надёжная конструкция в отличии от подавляющего большинства.
Love your work. Your channel is my favourite for helping decide on lens purchases.
The round bokeh are beautiful but the chart shots are horrendous. What a disaster . 47% acceptable, varying degrees of sharpness. 13% soft. 27% blurry and 13% mash potato. Im shocked. I really wanted to try this lens for video but its obviously a specialty portrait lens. The Tair two was best by 6 to 12%. The Silver was worst.
Please let thiese chart shots be a mistake or at least that this only occurs at wide open as id love to buy this lens.
charts are not mistake. This is vintage lens, please do not compare it to modern ones. Lens is not all about sharpness. These lenses deliver character, modern lenses are deprived of...