This will be very useful to young techs and DIY. Good stuff 👍🏼. They might be more difficult to deal with but constant tension clamps IN MY OPINION are better depending the application
Worm drive hose clamps come apart. You don't have to have access through the hose like with the other style that doesn't come apart. The best kind are actually the PEX style but you can't get them off easily.
That is not actually how that clamp is supposed to be used. The tabs on the clamp allow you to lock it in the open open position, freeing it completely from the hose. All you have to do it squeeze the clamp completely closed. Prying at the tabs with a screwdriver will release them allowing the clamp to secure the hose. Almost completely eliminating the need for your fancy locking pliers. You’re welcome lol
@danfrank-5294 I'm aware. These Pliers make removing the clamps easier. They don't slip off, and they swivel so you can grab them from any angle .Some clamps don't have the tab that holds it open. The one with the cable fits in tight spaces.
Thar piece is supposed to hold them open, it make assembly easier.I just squeeze them at an angle that forces that piece to go under the other side of the clamp.
That grabber tool sucks...only good for the large clamps, wont close far enough for the mediums or small ones, if you grip too hard the center cable pulls through the stop and wont let it close at all
Flat band or spring clamps are known for rusting and breaking in half and allowing hoses to pop off under pressure while driving. This happens constantly in rust belt areas. That's why they get replaced with worm gear clamps as soon as possible.
@@BlcokedAccount Trow me a reason as to why my statement is false? I live and work in Northern NY and I have been a technician for around 35 years in the extreme rust. I have replaced so many rusted and broken constant tension clamps. The working theory behind the design is sound IF they were made of a material that would not rust but unfortunately they do not install them with that option from the manufacturer. So until then, worm gear clamps are going to be the better option.
@@BlcokedAccount Well that's kind of strange but lucky in your part. But maybe it has something to do with the major volume of vehicles that I work on in any given day. And considering you are just comparing a few to that. Idk but just two weeks ago a newer Cadillac came in with a misfire condition and a check engine light . The customer stated while on the hwy his vehicle started smoking and smelling bad but eventually went away for the most part and since he was not near a gas station he didn't want to stop until he got home. (Roughly 30 mins later) the next evening he ended up dropping it off at the shop. After the tech looked it over, he found a Broken constant tension clamp, a half-off lower radiator hose, a burt up drive belt from slipping from the coolant, and an empty cooling system. After reinstalling the hose with a new clamp and a pressure testing it. It was determined the the customer had blown the head gasket. All thanks to a $1.20 hose clamp that had rusted. So yes, it is a problem here in the REAL rust belts. I'm glad that you don't have these issues though because they do suck. I wish that we didnt have them.
@@midnightrider1854 you'll never convince me that a worm drive clamp is a suitable replacement. They cause hoses to pucker because they don't tighten evenly. Plus they are thin, stamped metal and will rust out faster than the original clamps. If you don't have issues with them, then people are taking their vehicles elsewhere after having you work on them.
On hard to get to places , open the constant tension clamp and secure open with a nylon zip tie . After placement cut the zip tie .
This will be very useful to young techs and DIY. Good stuff 👍🏼. They might be more difficult to deal with but constant tension clamps IN MY OPINION are better depending the application
Worm drive hose clamps come apart. You don't have to have access through the hose like with the other style that doesn't come apart. The best kind are actually the PEX style but you can't get them off easily.
That second tool tho 👌
Thanks for this I have a Ford Lightning and switched out the intercooler pump. What a nightmare. Just bought this so when I switch out the radiator.
I think you're going to be glad you did
I like those clamps because they are constant pressure
Me too
Car tool kit pliers the ones that have the two holes ?? Click the pliers into the second hole perfect for those clips
That's what I used to use. If you ever get the chance, try these out.
I don't know who would hate on these. There's so much easier, so much better. You get stainless steel ones, No worries, way easier to work with.
Most of the time I agree.
These are fitted to speed up the assembly process nothing more 👍🏻🇬🇧
3Pcs Hose Clamp Pliers
amzn.to/3PRuWBj
That is not actually how that clamp is supposed to be used. The tabs on the clamp allow you to lock it in the open open position, freeing it completely from the hose. All you have to do it squeeze the clamp completely closed. Prying at the tabs with a screwdriver will release them allowing the clamp to secure the hose. Almost completely eliminating the need for your fancy locking pliers. You’re welcome lol
@danfrank-5294 I'm aware. These Pliers make removing the clamps easier. They don't slip off, and they swivel so you can grab them from any angle .Some clamps don't have the tab that holds it open. The one with the cable fits in tight spaces.
Can you activate the link?
Can you activate the link?
@@bogusienombre355 The link is working for me.
My clamps are open...but the piece that holds it open wont bend far enough to close...now what
Thar piece is supposed to hold them open, it make assembly easier.I just squeeze them at an angle that forces that piece to go under the other side of the clamp.
That grabber tool sucks...only good for the large clamps, wont close far enough for the mediums or small ones, if you grip too hard the center cable pulls through the stop and wont let it close at all
Also the "grabber tool" is adjustable.
Flat band or spring clamps are known for rusting and breaking in half and allowing hoses to pop off under pressure while driving. This happens constantly in rust belt areas. That's why they get replaced with worm gear clamps as soon as possible.
False.
@@BlcokedAccount Trow me a reason as to why my statement is false? I live and work in Northern NY and I have been a technician for around 35 years in the extreme rust. I have replaced so many rusted and broken constant tension clamps. The working theory behind the design is sound IF they were made of a material that would not rust but unfortunately they do not install them with that option from the manufacturer. So until then, worm gear clamps are going to be the better option.
@@midnightrider1854 I live in the rust belt and drive old vehicles and have never broken one. Worn clamps are absolutely going to leak.
@@BlcokedAccount Well that's kind of strange but lucky in your part. But maybe it has something to do with the major volume of vehicles that I work on in any given day. And considering you are just comparing a few to that. Idk but just two weeks ago a newer Cadillac came in with a misfire condition and a check engine light . The customer stated while on the hwy his vehicle started smoking and smelling bad but eventually went away for the most part and since he was not near a gas station he didn't want to stop until he got home. (Roughly 30 mins later) the next evening he ended up dropping it off at the shop. After the tech looked it over, he found a Broken constant tension clamp, a half-off lower radiator hose, a burt up drive belt from slipping from the coolant, and an empty cooling system. After reinstalling the hose with a new clamp and a pressure testing it. It was determined the the customer had blown the head gasket. All thanks to a $1.20 hose clamp that had rusted. So yes, it is a problem here in the REAL rust belts. I'm glad that you don't have these issues though because they do suck. I wish that we didnt have them.
@@midnightrider1854 you'll never convince me that a worm drive clamp is a suitable replacement. They cause hoses to pucker because they don't tighten evenly. Plus they are thin, stamped metal and will rust out faster than the original clamps. If you don't have issues with them, then people are taking their vehicles elsewhere after having you work on them.