Dear Brad, enjoying this, I just purchased a 13" South Bend Toolroom like yours, a little older, 1939....I have seen your name around for years, and watched a few videos way back in the day......looks like your 13" is very beautiful. restoration , Best Regards, and Cheers from Central Florida, Paul...just realized we have been Friends on Facebook for many years......Bravo
Brad, nice video--I always appreciate folks who include the parts where things don't go as planned. I'm sure I'll be spooking this one up again as I start to reassemble my old 1943 16" machine--the only difference I see right now is yours has thrust bearings on either side of the taper attachment tube. I didn't find those when disassembling mine, but now I'm thinking that would be a very easy upgrade. Thx again.
BasementShopGuy Brad, The early South Bend taper att. did have thrust washers. The ball thrust bearing was a later improvement. Also, there is a difference in the C.S. screw and the C.S. screw sleeve to make up for the difference in the bearing width. I enjoy your videos. Chris.
I appreciate all your hard work especially the great detail in your videos. I apologize for asking too many questions about the other videos I have watched. Every time I re-watch one of your projects I have additional questions to ask. You really have a lot of comments, I read all of them and what I wanted to ask was mentioned already. When you are a green hobbyist and have a SB 13" x 72" lathe in the garage that doesn't come close to looking like one of the many you rebuilt you have nothing but questions to learn how to what you are doing. From polishing the smallest screw or bolt or wondering how many rolls of blue tape you have to buy to get the same results you do. I spent 40 years welding, teaching, and inspiring others to be better at their craft. Sitting in front of a lathe is a whole different story. I bought a set of New Era Dials but I have a lot of new parts I have to make to fit the South Bend 13" referring to the center shaft and threads on the end. I don't have much on prints and I didn't see any pieces you made extra other than what came with the dials themselves. At least I have a chance to make them work thanks to you sharing this 2 Part Series. God Bless.
Good Evening Brad from the UK. In one of Mr. Pete222's videos, he advised against using a air line to clean away the chips as it tended to force it into the places where you don't really want it. Best Wishes
Great work and love your restorations. The use of an old spade bit for a nut driver was just the hint I was after. Will also use one for an extra wide screwdriver for those big headed screws. Keep up the good work.
I hate to say it, but I think you missed cleaning that one washer! Ha.....just kidding! You're givin' me the fever to get my new to me 13" Sheldon out of storage, and get it fixed up and in service. Beautiful machine Brad !
Brad, if you look closely it looks like the dial has a little wobble. Look at 17:57, it looks like a bent screw. This is were you are getting the binding.
This is EXACTLY the culprit. The screw is true, its the "extender" that's slightly big and uses two set screws to join it. So it has a slight amount a wobble. Not the best design. So I'm still trying to figure something out to get around it. It's a challenge for sure ;)
Great work Brad! (you have helped me out on my own SB9A restoration on the PM forum.) My thoughts on the spring issue: You could buy another set of springs with the same rate but half the overall length, and turn 3 brass shoes to serve as the bearing surface on the dial. That should eliminate the ground corner of the spring wire from catching at all... (or if you cant buy springs, snip yours and make a jig with a center pin and re grind the finished end with that fancy surface grinder...)
freeclimbmtb The real issue is with the dial binding (sometimes) inside the dial basket. I balanced it all out with the set-screws and all (seems) to be ok now. Thanks for watching, appreciate it.
man if you could blueprint them dials. im sure everyone would like to try a make them. i know i would. the little ones that came on my 18" are so small they dont even look proportionate. thanks alot for all your videos, ive learned alot
The video I've been waiting for. But you didn't really show the taper attachment chip guard. I'm trying to find out how long it is and where the hole is. So I can make one.
My apologies for the delay - here you go buddy;) Material: 0.076 thick steel Length: 14-5/16" Width: 1.600" Hole: 0.530 (4-7/8" from the back end) (2) circular dimples that are 7/8" (center to center) from either side of the hole. Dimples are protrude 1/16" Slight bend - begins at 11-1/4" and bends up 3/16" (for clearance of the cross slide casting) Hope this helps - let me know how you make out. If you need some pictures, send me an email to basementshopguy@gmail.com and I can send some. Thanks!
Thank You Very Much. That should do it. The one I had was 1/8 thick wood with a strip glued to the back side. But it was broken and I only had part of it. I don't think the wood was original because the strip glued to the back side was 1/8 thick and the end of the slot is not that deep. You might want to show that information in a future video .Im sure a lot of people will be interested in making them. I did notice that you can still buy them for the Heavy 10 lathe. I might do that just so I can see how there made, then I would just sell it later. If I get one for the Heavy 10 , I will send you pictures of it. Thank You Again.
Put the springs back in but make a PTFE top hat shape to fit in the end that will take up the end okay and be friction free , you may have to trim off the spring length but the wear surface need be only 0.5mm thick But boy how the ek do you keep it so clean I vacuum off and wipe down after every session but it is a mess compared to your lathe , but maybe I am old school use plenty of oil on the ways ect oil is cheaper than a new lathe at £9K Nice work and well presented Stuart
Stuart Hardy Plugs and spring-toppers were my first thought, but I went with a plastic spacer. The real issue is with the dial binding (sometimes) inside the dial basket. I balanced it all out with the set-screws and all (seems) to be ok now. We'll see... lol
If I remember correctly, there should be a washer/spacer underneath the handle of the extender (out of brass and custom made). You will have to figure out what the thickness should be, but that will not be that hard. cheers!
Fernand Geene Van Plugs and spring-toppers were my first thought, but I went with a plastic spacer. The real issue is with the dial binding (sometimes) inside the dial basket. I balanced it all out with the set-screws and all (seems) to be ok now.
m fletch lugs and spring-toppers were my first thought, but I went with a plastic spacer. The real issue is with the dial binding (sometimes) inside the dial basket. I balanced it all out with the set-screws and all (seems) to be ok now. Thanks for watching, appreciate it.
great looking dials. I still think your first thought would be the best solution (and really should have been the initial design; spring washer) @@BasementShopGuy
Thanks a bunch for your videos - much appreciated. If you look at your dial when turning the handle at 18 minutes I think I can see some runout which I wonder could be caused by a slightly bent leadscrew - may just be my eyes / computer. Really like your lathe - top quality obviously. Rod
Newmachinist Thanks Rod. You have good eyes, as the real issue is with the dial binding (sometimes) inside the dial basket. This is caused by the extension-piece that fits over the existing screw. As you'd think, there's a little slop in the fit, so the extender can be slightly crooked. I balanced it all out with the set-screws and all (seems) to be ok now. Thanks for watching, appreciate it.
Hi Brad, Nice to have time to get those maintenance done, Reminds me how my carriage needs maintenance... Noticed you never use compressed air, just wondering... Nicely done, Pierre
pierre beaudry Yeah, it began as a simple thing (that I wasn't filming) and got a little bigger and camera-worthy. I'm gonna be adding some compressed air, definitely.
Ha! That's what I thought when I first got these. The diameters are different so they'll never (stay) lined up. You align them and on the first rotation, they're off again, LOL. Good eye though ;)
Just 1 question, how thick was the Delrin or plastic piece you used to put inside the dial for the springs to rub against, this is what I need to do to mine when I get to that point? Thank you
Hi Brad, Thanks for taking us along on your maintenance adventure! I was wondering, do you ever use acetone for a cleaning solvent? If you do, do you have issues with using the toothbrushes? My experience has been that acetone kind of melts the plastic in toothbrushes (and in screwdriver handles). Thanks, -mike
As soon as that mod is available for the 10" SB I'm getting it! Great mod and great vid! ps. Please let me know if you didn't get my email for WIYBox.....
Dear Brad, enjoying this, I just purchased a 13" South Bend Toolroom like yours, a little older, 1939....I have seen your name around for years, and watched a few videos way back in the day......looks like your 13" is very beautiful. restoration , Best Regards, and Cheers from Central Florida, Paul...just realized we have been Friends on Facebook for many years......Bravo
Brad, nice video--I always appreciate folks who include the parts where things don't go as planned. I'm sure I'll be spooking this one up again as I start to reassemble my old 1943 16" machine--the only difference I see right now is yours has thrust bearings on either side of the taper attachment tube. I didn't find those when disassembling mine, but now I'm thinking that would be a very easy upgrade. Thx again.
Yup - if your taper is a telescopic (which it should be), then you definitely need them. They're definitely supposed to be there.
BasementShopGuy Brad, The early South Bend taper att. did have thrust washers. The ball thrust bearing was a later improvement. Also, there is a difference in the C.S. screw and the C.S. screw sleeve to make up for the difference in the bearing width. I enjoy your videos. Chris.
I appreciate all your hard work especially the great detail in your videos. I apologize for asking too many questions about the other videos I have watched. Every time I re-watch one of your projects I have additional questions to ask. You really have a lot of comments, I read all of them and what I wanted to ask was mentioned already. When you are a green hobbyist and have a SB 13" x 72" lathe in the garage that doesn't come close to looking like one of the many you rebuilt you have nothing but questions to learn how to what you are doing. From polishing the smallest screw or bolt or wondering how many rolls of blue tape you have to buy to get the same results you do. I spent 40 years welding, teaching, and inspiring others to be better at their craft. Sitting in front of a lathe is a whole different story. I bought a set of New Era Dials but I have a lot of new parts I have to make to fit the South Bend 13" referring to the center shaft and threads on the end. I don't have much on prints and I didn't see any pieces you made extra other than what came with the dials themselves. At least I have a chance to make them work thanks to you sharing this 2 Part Series. God Bless.
Good Evening Brad from the UK. In one of Mr. Pete222's videos, he advised against using a air line to clean away the chips as it tended to force it into the places where you don't really want it.
Best Wishes
I don't use air (not yet anyway). The chips got into the screw due to not having a chip guard.
Great work and love your restorations. The use of an old spade bit for a nut driver was just the hint I was after. Will also use one for an extra wide screwdriver for those big headed screws. Keep up the good work.
Belair_Boy In the workshop Thanks man. Appreciate the kind words and really glad you liked the video ;)
Nice job Brad, you always do such a nice job taking care of your machines. That's got to be one of the cleanest South Bend's out there good job.
vince saluto Thanks Vince. Appreciate the kind words ;)
Great video! It is nice to know how the cross feed works and how to take it apart and re assemble it. Thanks.
Ted Johnston
chevnova396 Yeah, I figured it might help someone. I need to make a followup to how I eventually solved the problem.
nicely shown and done Brad.......whatever turned off at 3:32 really made a huge difference in sound...
I hate to say it, but I think you missed cleaning that one washer! Ha.....just kidding! You're givin' me the fever to get my new to me 13" Sheldon out of storage, and get it fixed up and in service. Beautiful machine Brad !
Cool - Go for it. IT's a lot of fun to fix these babies up!
Brad, if you look closely it looks like the dial has a little wobble. Look at 17:57, it looks like a bent screw. This is were you are getting the binding.
This is EXACTLY the culprit. The screw is true, its the "extender" that's slightly big and uses two set screws to join it. So it has a slight amount a wobble. Not the best design. So I'm still trying to figure something out to get around it. It's a challenge for sure ;)
You are going to drive yourself NUT'S getting everything just right. LOL
Naa... The dial was just too tight and wasn't functional - kept messing me up as soon as I touched off.
Hi Brad !
Oh, I envy you these machines ... so nice and clean !
Ha! Shined up for the camera, LOL
Great work Brad! (you have helped me out on my own SB9A restoration on the PM forum.) My thoughts on the spring issue: You could buy another set of springs with the same rate but half the overall length, and turn 3 brass shoes to serve as the bearing surface on the dial. That should eliminate the ground corner of the spring wire from catching at all... (or if you cant buy springs, snip yours and make a jig with a center pin and re grind the finished end with that fancy surface grinder...)
freeclimbmtb The real issue is with the dial binding (sometimes) inside the dial basket. I balanced it all out with the set-screws and all (seems) to be ok now. Thanks for watching, appreciate it.
man if you could blueprint them dials. im sure everyone would like to try a make them. i know i would. the little ones that came on my 18" are so small they dont even look proportionate. thanks alot for all your videos, ive learned alot
Thanks man!
The video I've been waiting for. But you didn't really show the taper attachment chip guard. I'm trying to find out how long it is and where the hole is. So I can make one.
My apologies for the delay - here you go buddy;)
Material: 0.076 thick steel
Length: 14-5/16"
Width: 1.600"
Hole: 0.530 (4-7/8" from the back end)
(2) circular dimples that are 7/8" (center to center) from either side of the hole. Dimples are protrude 1/16"
Slight bend - begins at 11-1/4" and bends up 3/16" (for clearance of the cross slide casting)
Hope this helps - let me know how you make out. If you need some pictures, send me an email to basementshopguy@gmail.com and I can send some.
Thanks!
Thank You Very Much. That should do it. The one I had was 1/8 thick wood with a strip glued to the back side. But it was broken and I only had part of it. I don't think the wood was original because the strip glued to the back side was 1/8 thick and the end of the slot is not that deep. You might want to show that information in a future video .Im sure a lot of people will be interested in making them. I did notice that you can still buy them for the Heavy 10 lathe. I might do that just so I can see how there made, then I would just sell it later. If I get one for the Heavy 10 , I will send you pictures of it. Thank You Again.
Put the springs back in but make a PTFE top hat shape to fit in the end that will take up the end okay and be friction free , you may have to trim off the spring length but the wear surface need be only 0.5mm thick
But boy how the ek do you keep it so clean I vacuum off and wipe down after every session but it is a mess compared to your lathe , but maybe I am old school use plenty of oil on the ways ect oil is cheaper than a new lathe at £9K
Nice work and well presented
Stuart
That is a brilliant idea! ;-)
Stuart Hardy Plugs and spring-toppers were my first thought, but I went with a plastic spacer. The real issue is with the dial binding (sometimes) inside the dial basket. I balanced it all out with the set-screws and all (seems) to be ok now. We'll see... lol
If I remember correctly, there should be a washer/spacer underneath the handle of the extender (out of brass and custom made). You will have to figure out what the thickness should be, but that will not be that hard.
cheers!
Fernand Geene Van Plugs and spring-toppers were my first thought, but I went with a plastic spacer. The real issue is with the dial binding (sometimes) inside the dial basket. I balanced it all out with the set-screws and all (seems) to be ok now.
On the dial I would have shortened the springs then put three small spring loaded brass plungers in, thanks for the video's
m fletch lugs and spring-toppers were my first thought, but I went with a plastic spacer. The real issue is with the dial binding (sometimes) inside the dial basket. I balanced it all out with the set-screws and all (seems) to be ok now. Thanks for watching, appreciate it.
m fletch I should have scrolled down and read before making the exact same suggestion!!
great looking dials. I still think your first thought would be the best solution (and really should have been the initial design; spring washer) @@BasementShopGuy
Thanks a bunch for your videos - much appreciated.
If you look at your dial when turning the handle at 18 minutes I think
I can see some runout which I wonder could be caused by a slightly bent
leadscrew - may just be my eyes / computer.
Really like your lathe - top quality obviously. Rod
Newmachinist Thanks Rod. You have good eyes, as the real issue is with the dial binding (sometimes) inside the dial basket. This is caused by the extension-piece that fits over the existing screw. As you'd think, there's a little slop in the fit, so the extender can be slightly crooked. I balanced it all out with the set-screws and all (seems) to be ok now. Thanks for watching, appreciate it.
Seems like the dial lock screw at 27:51 should have a brass tip to reduce damage to the dial.
Hi Brad,
Nice to have time to get those maintenance done, Reminds me how my carriage needs maintenance...
Noticed you never use compressed air, just wondering...
Nicely done,
Pierre
pierre beaudry Yeah, it began as a simple thing (that I wasn't filming) and got a little bigger and camera-worthy. I'm gonna be adding some compressed air, definitely.
Why not try to turn small delrin plugs on top of springs?
Cheers from Sweden
Bengt
bsjoelund Plugs and spring-toppers were my first thought, but I went with a plastic spacer. Thanks for the viewership, appreciate it ;)
i'm not with leaving the springs out of the dial, because I want it to retain zero.
You didn't put the zeros together... would bug me to death. :)
I see later in the vid that they did align. :)
Ha! That's what I thought when I first got these. The diameters are different so they'll never (stay) lined up. You align them and on the first rotation, they're off again, LOL. Good eye though ;)
Just 1 question, how thick was the Delrin or plastic piece you used to put inside the dial for the springs to rub against, this is what I need to do to mine when I get to that point? Thank you
Hi Brad,
Thanks for taking us along on your maintenance adventure! I was wondering, do you ever use acetone for a cleaning solvent? If you do, do you have issues with using the toothbrushes? My experience has been that acetone kind of melts the plastic in toothbrushes (and in screwdriver handles).
Thanks,
-mike
No, I never tried it, but now I'll make sure to not, LOL. Good tip, thanks!
As soon as that mod is available for the 10" SB I'm getting it! Great mod and great vid! ps. Please let me know if you didn't get my email for WIYBox.....
I did Jeff.