Good afternoon Stefan. Maybe a stupid question but how to print this pla base for the lid cover at best? with the nut inserts on the top side and getting a nice side and with using support for the glue flange? of with the flex lid interface side facing up using support blockers on the sloped sides and using support inside the nut holes and the open hollow area's beside? planning to print it with 100% infill. is that needed? Thanks in advance, Eric
Hi, I printed the cover base with the flex lid interface facing up. I think it is the best way to do it. The only supports you need are inside the nut holes and in the hollow areas as you are saying. 100% infill is not a good idea, then even a small amount of overextrusion can cause problems with print quality. I only used around 20% with 5 perimeters. Btw for mounting the rollcage, I used hex head screws with heads in the mentioned slots in the lid base. It works better this way, and you can use locknuts on the rollcage side.
Hi, I hope you had a great christmas. I have a question. I finally found the time to laminate the hull parts. I used the same weight carbon cloth as you did. And also used two full layers everywhere and a 5 cm strip as a third layer on the keel. For a very first time I think it looks pretty ok. Some air bubbles that I need to fill but for the rest I am happy. Loose top and bottom hull pieces together have a weight of 211 grams. Only problem I find now is how to know what size to print the pdf's you provided with the jetsprint boat. When I print the sheet with the hole for the flood chamber it is printed in a4 at 100% and that will be fine I think when I hold it against the back of the boat. I suppose I need to print the flood chamber wall pdf also at 100% but for some reason I can not get 2 pages out. It will only show half of the part on a page and the other part is just gone. It predicts and will print only 1 page with half of the wall. Then I tried to import the pdf in autocad and scaled the rectangle that is in the pdf to a3 format. Then I end up with a part that will be 452mm long. that seems to be ok I think? Can you advise me? (by the way, I used moulding epoxy to line the 3d printed molds and eliminate the layer lines. This stuff is designed to give a smooth flat surface. I did not sand and polish this layer after I put it in so it was not perfect but good enough for me. I then used mold cleaner and moulding wax. then a layer of pva. Releasing the hull parts was super easy and finish is shiny.
Nice to hear your progress! The flood chamber template pdf is sized as an A3, because it cannot fit on an A4. But if your printer cannot print A3, you need to find a print setting called "print as a poster" or similar. This will split your A3 into two A4s, which you can print separately in correct size and tape together, just like I did.
Great video! As always... For the paintjob I suggest a nice Hilbert Curve on the hull. 😉
😅
Wickedly cool Man. Can’t wait to see this boat going! I know it will be insanely quick.
Hehe we will see! We will see quite soon..
Nice man looks great 👍
Thanks!
clear it
Give it a nice polish and clear coat it
I will! This is the most cool option😎
Good afternoon Stefan. Maybe a stupid question but how to print this pla base for the lid cover at best? with the nut inserts on the top side and getting a nice side and with using support for the glue flange?
of with the flex lid interface side facing up using support blockers on the sloped sides and using support inside the nut holes and the open hollow area's beside?
planning to print it with 100% infill. is that needed?
Thanks in advance,
Eric
Hi, I printed the cover base with the flex lid interface facing up. I think it is the best way to do it. The only supports you need are inside the nut holes and in the hollow areas as you are saying. 100% infill is not a good idea, then even a small amount of overextrusion can cause problems with print quality. I only used around 20% with 5 perimeters.
Btw for mounting the rollcage, I used hex head screws with heads in the mentioned slots in the lid base. It works better this way, and you can use locknuts on the rollcage side.
@@mjetdevelopment Thanks for the quick reply. You give great support.
Clear coat it!
Yess! 👌
First
So I guess the competition starts😂 You are the truly the first ever such comment on this channel congrats.
Hi, I hope you had a great christmas. I have a question. I finally found the time to laminate the hull parts. I used the same weight carbon cloth as you did. And also used two full layers everywhere and a 5 cm strip as a third layer on the keel. For a very first time I think it looks pretty ok. Some air bubbles that I need to fill but for the rest I am happy. Loose top and bottom hull pieces together have a weight of 211 grams. Only problem I find now is how to know what size to print the pdf's you provided with the jetsprint boat. When I print the sheet with the hole for the flood chamber it is printed in a4 at 100% and that will be fine I think when I hold it against the back of the boat. I suppose I need to print the flood chamber wall pdf also at 100% but for some reason I can not get 2 pages out. It will only show half of the part on a page and the other part is just gone. It predicts and will print only 1 page with half of the wall. Then I tried to import the pdf in autocad and scaled the rectangle that is in the pdf to a3 format. Then I end up with a part that will be 452mm long. that seems to be ok I think? Can you advise me? (by the way, I used moulding epoxy to line the 3d printed molds and eliminate the layer lines. This stuff is designed to give a smooth flat surface. I did not sand and polish this layer after I put it in so it was not perfect but good enough for me. I then used mold cleaner and moulding wax. then a layer of pva. Releasing the hull parts was super easy and finish is shiny.
Nice to hear your progress!
The flood chamber template pdf is sized as an A3, because it cannot fit on an A4. But if your printer cannot print A3, you need to find a print setting called "print as a poster" or similar. This will split your A3 into two A4s, which you can print separately in correct size and tape together, just like I did.