Pretty sure this is not the correct way to install Wagos !!
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- Опубликовано: 18 май 2020
- Join me on a day in the life of an electrician in the uk trying to make the best of a bad installation.
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Makes for a good debate this one. I’m returning to the job to sort the house end out yet so any buried cable that could potentially be damaged or impacted will be getting the swa earthed to the relevant circuit.
Is the lighting on a fused circuit or run from the socket?
Propper nice job.
Yes, I did think that the buried section of SWA should have the sheath earthed at the house end. I do appreciate that you would have to be pretty dumb to dig or drill into that cable when the cable run was so obvious. However, as qualified electricians (even ones with the very basic Domestic Electrician C&Gs like me) will know that people (customers, DIY'ers and some trade-persons) ARE pretty dumb when it comes to electricity.
You could still argue that the SWA sheath earthing should be continuous through out the installation in case someone were to extend the circuit later. However, a properly qualified electrician would know to check the installation before beginning work AND test afterwards. In addition the extended cable might require its own earth electrode (depending on cable length and purpose for the extension) .Complete amateurs would not appreciate when and why the sheath should be earthed at all. The issue would be be for the people who know a little about electricity and do not necessarily have the full test equipment, however even they should be able to spot the lack of metal glands at the remote ends.
@@tresslerj1985 a
@@julianpearce218 a
Chris you may very well be the best spark on youtube, good tidy work with no BS or ego. Keep it up mate, top class content!
Great upload as always bud. Followed your channel from day one, and You got to be one of the most genuine Sparks on here. Top Guy!
Come on Chris what's this 100% free dig you got going on 😉
In all seriousness, your a class example of a good spark. We need more of us. Keep it up.
Brilliant real world job as always mate, keep up the good work!
Always impressed with your work ethic and work methods. Quality from start to finish. Annoys when I do a job and find short cuts and rubbish work done previously!
from the otherside of the pond as soon as you removed that cover plate i literally lol 🤣🤣🙈
I was doing garden work today with wiska boxes, I would like a long wiska box with 4 x 20mm outlets so when looping in and out any flexes for bed lighting can also gland in the bottom, would look neater and be better for any water ingress.
Got to love builder electrics! Lol.
Good job on fixing that instalation.
Always good to see the reliable electricians plaster.
Excellent work Chris and thanks for the content stay safe and take care
Thanks for the video Chris. Nice little job. I like the Wiska 206 joint boxes, nice and neat. The new products that are designed for us sparks to make life a little simpler, quicker and neater . I find it amazing how people can still get it wrong. (Those wago’s when you removed the original enclosure) 🙈
Personally as already said I'd have liked to see proper glanding and would have done so. Would I go back to do it? probably not. Do I think the shed will explode and cause the apocalypse? Nope. Do I do thing that others may frown upon that I think are ok using common sense? Definitely, we all have different opinions. Some comments on here are from perfect sparks that do everything exactly as it should be no matter what's been served up or the clients budget. Even late in the day they wouldn't dream of using the red stuffer or flagged cables with tape. They would clear there diaries the next day to come back for something so minor. That's called perfection. Normal decent sparks like most of us will just have to settle for our best I suppose. I'd like to ask some people on here if they have ever left a job and then thought "I could have done that bit better, maybe next time ". I do about once a week 🤣. Point is as long as you give a shit about your work that's half the battle. The way in which some people seem to work in these comments sections I think they must earn 5k a year and feed the family on rice and beans.
Realistic comment (life is never perfect).
Perfect comment 👏
Fair play!
I think you are unduly generous with your use of the word "Installed" at the start on that mess Chris.
Great vids
..... not an electrical but it's nice to see people tidy up work as they go along.
Another interesting vid chris as always nice and tidy mate
Nice to the see if the source goes into directly to the consumer unit or a fcu and straight through the wall to an outside junction box.
There is a type of Wago,nummert 221 that is directly suitable for flex wires.And i mostly avoid off wartles on the upside..They may be water tight,but sometimes you could forget to tight them up and the water comes in easely.That doesnt happen when you use the side off the box or on the under side.
Keep it up Chris! Good work
This has been an interesting find while going down the RUclips rabbit hole. I've been an electrician in the USA for over 20 years. I thought electricity was all ohms, volts, amps, watts, etc. But many of the things and terms you use are completely different. It's interesting to say the least.
ingress protection (IP) is one that seems front and centre these days.
The armour of an swa cable is classed as an exposed conductive part and must be earthed and the appropriate manufacturers glands used, it must never be left unearthed.
If you want to treat it like NYY-J then use NYY-J.
A conductive part which can readily be touched.
CJR ELECTRICAL It can be made live under fault conditions such as impact or damage to the cable itself regardless if it’s buried or clipped direct to a surface , it should also be terminated using the correct manufacturers glands which are accessible once a cover is removed. It should never be left unearthed period.
Do you Earth recessed metal back boxes? Do you believe they should be earthed? Same principle.
The fact is if the armour is left unearthed, then that the work has been left in a potentially dangerous situation and is non compliant with bs7671.
He explained it in the video its clipped no chance of impact it wasnt earthed before what he has done has left it in a much better place than it was before - as he said another days labour also that the client might not want to pay for - there is no problem with this job at all
Simon Harding If swa is used in whatever setting you can’t blindly state that the cable cannot be damaged , if the armour penetrates any live conductor, then it will be live and a potential shock hazard which is why it is earthed , the same as any other exposed conductive part which forms part of the electrical installation, if the customer doesn’t want to pay to do the job correctly then the alternative is to work on it and leave it potentially dangerous is it?
@@simonharding1572 Irrespective of a persons interpretation of the regs, It is just good practice to earth the armour, unless there is a specific reason not to. He should have earthed the sections/parts he has altered (ie anything after the first socket) and fitted the appropriate external glands. If the client doesn't want to pay for the remediation of the supply cable then so be it.
Loving your work Chris but try using a pair of wrench pliers on plastic compression glands. Saves damaging or leaving indents
Oh dear Chris , I feel for you on this one .
A lot of people slating your interpretation of regs ref to bonding the armoured.
Can’t wait to see your final video on this job , with a huge section explaining the comments no doubt .
I’d ring the NIC first thou to cover yourself .
I think it’s in the British Standards for armoured cable in the informative sections that the armouring is earthed at it’s supply end as opposed to anything specific in bs7671. Most people probably don’t have access to these other British Standards either. I know he is trying to make the best of a poor installation.
Adding to the wiska box.......if you use a SWA gland to break out entry instead of stuffing gland it will reduce the chance of stripping the thread ;-)
Dont know if you would be interested in this or not but where I am in the north of Scotland we dont ever tend to use any drain holes or any outdoor light or socket ect unless it's a IP rating of 65 or above.
The weather is that bad when it comes that water gets in everywhere so you have to glad and seal if you want it to last any length of time.
Lovely neat job you have done. Those lights would not last long here though only ones I have come across that seem to hold up well Panasonic's Victorian style LEDs dont know if they still make them but they had a decent IP at 66 and could be sealed well. Sorry for the randomness 🤪
Fantastic socks mate 👍🤣
After watching I'll need to upgrade in future to wiska boxes. They seem much better and easier. Thanks for the tips👍
Mate if you're after an adaptable box you won't go far wrong with the wiska boxes. They're the best I've used. They've got a good selection of sizes too.
Good job Chris I would have brought box down to first socket in shed and then bring wire under shed to outside socket then you only drill one hole into shed.
Good work CJ
Chris, I just watched your second video on this install, Why did you replace all the cable ? Just learning that’s all
Really tidy result here. Nice one.
Looks good but id definatly gland the armoureds. You can get the earthing nuts that fit within the whisker boxes so you dont need the banjos. You can also get the IMO boxes which is a whisker with a din rail with terminals pre installed. Can get them from Edmondson wholesalers. I agree with someone elses post about the Grips, id definaly go for the knippex flat jaw version to eliminate destroying the glands.. especially plastic ones. Keep up the good work and stay safe 👍😁
Great video, Thanks.
Top class job
Preferred the spotty socks! Did you remember to put the grommet in?
I've seen some cables before terminated into a lunch box and the joint box and it gets better there was some old penguin bar rappers in the lunch box!
Was the lighting on the same circuit as the sockets - but de-rated at some point along it ?
Love the tip about using the gland to pop through the wiska cutout - very neat.
But I can't agree with the use of ferrules for flexes in Wagos unless you use very soft copper ones. Because of the stiffness and hardness of normal ferrules, the blade in the Wago won't be able to deform the conductor in the way it normally would to get a good surface area of contact. I think especially on higher current circuits there would be a risk of connections corroding and become high resistance. Stick to the lever Wagos for high current flex connections direct to the copper conductors.
Have to agree with that
There was enough armoured cable to take all the connections indoors and drill them out through the shed? Or is that against regs?
i must say i love that feral crimps dont use straned much in the states but do like em might get a starter set
Most European countries require them everywhere, unless the manufacturer explicitly bans them (I think Wago states that you shouldn't use ferrules in the lever-type connectors), so you can't even connect a plug or inline switch or lamp socket to a bit of flex without ferrules. That's also why stranded building wire is highly unpopular in central Europe, except 10 mm2 and up.
Good vid as always. Wow haven't seen wiska boxes that size that's a real shout for lighting. Generally like wiska ext jbs only thing I hate is the 90° locking screws there so easy to mash up with a screwdriver....
Take a look at PB Swiss tools, they do a neat button driver. Pricey though!
I found the biggest flat head in my bag does it nicely without damage. Easier said then done though when your up steps with that tempting terminal driver in your pocket at 5 o clock
I don’t understand why people wont use proper metal glands for SWA wire. Its perfect for earthing the armour and the rubber seal keeps water out
Sorry could not leave the swas without the correct glands being fitted. Would class that as a C3, as you know it states in the regs that equipment should be installed in accordance with manufactures instructions!
Hints that this isn't NYY:
- NYY up to 10 mm2 is usually -J so 3-core would be brown, blue and yellow/green. NYY-O 3-core would be brown, black and grey but that's rarely ever used since you aren't allowed to sleeve anything green/yellow in Germany, which is where NYY comes from. Earths have to be green/yellow along their entire length. -J means with earth conductor, -O means without. Pre-harmonised German cable designations don't make much sense, just have to memorise them.
- NYY up to 10 mm2 is always solid, not stranded, I think you can even get solid 16 mm2 *shudder*
All that SWA is quite chunky for just using on the outside of the shed. If there is a low chance of mechanical damage I will often use H07rnf cable as it's easier to work with and doesn't look as industrial in a domestic setting.
Tbh we just use NYY and be done with it. Sometimes even NYM in UV-proof copex because it's up to code and for short bits outside in long runs it saves massive amounts of money.
Can you get brown/blue/CPC three core SWA? All the channels I've watched use the three-phase brown/black/grey and half the time it's heat-shrinked because it's being used single phase and it looks a bit ugly. Is it super-rare or super pricey, or something?
Food for thought about not using the correct swa glands and ensuring the armouring has a good solid earth connection. Home owner decides to dig garden using an old school metal fork including the handle. Drives fork into the ground straight throw the armouring and live conductor. Will your circuit disconnect in time? Will it even disconnect ? Not picking holes in your work BTW you seem a decent bloke too and I can see your putting right someone else's shite work. Over the last few years I've seen so many installs were swa cables are not glanded correctly or not glanded at all.
what make is the tool bag/box you're using it looks a good size
Your "apprentice" reminds me of the meme of the cat apprentice that pays attention, is nice and quiet and, stays off his phone
We'd never be allowed to do this in Australia. SWA would have to be down at least 500mm in sand covered with tape. Seems in the UK you can just chuck it in without too much effort with the shovel. We'd also have to ground the SWA cable to ensure it doesn't become live in an accident. Love the way you can use the rugged cable instead of conduits. We'd have to put a sub in for the lighting too.
As always great job mate. 👍
Hey Chris, I would imagine you would have to remake every connection at each wiska and install earth plates, and then test all of that before doing the shed!! That alone would add at least another day to the job. I also thought the wiska boxes had a terminal block for the wago’s or do they not fit in the 306? Are they an option? Also very Nice clean up mate great job.
when you install surface mount boxes butted up against each other (for socket outlets), do you keep some of the grey PVC sheath on the cable that runs between them or just strip them out into single insulated cables?
Yes keep about 2 inches of sheath on them.
The shed has got less insulation than than those wires going into the wagos
A like for your new apprentice 😂👍 that's a man cave if ever I saw one lol. DIY Dave been in there shocking! Why don't people connect the armour to cpc? Easy to do and safer... Phhh.
I liked the content, but experienced more ads in this video then any video I've watched for ages.
Good job i would say but i would personally use some plastic protection on all those cables..even they have protection .i would not trust it..extra plastic protection (like flexible plastic protection useable into the ground as well) is much better choice..
Lovely job.......but I’m not convinced about the dodgy plaster on your thumb!
Mate for the swivels I use a wrench named 'schroefsleutel' from Knipex. I don't know the English name but if u Google for the image u can see what I mean. That wil not damage the swivels. Nice video!
Adjustable spanner.
Knipex Pliers Wrench. Trouble is once you've bought one size you'll want the others. Amazing tool.
ruclips.net/video/1_RLWKMXrqk/видео.html
Hi Chris. 10mins in. Did you trim all the strands of wire when you put the ferrules into the Wago's ?
No leave them long do the bottom out inside the Wago.
what is the name of the tool used to crimp stranded wire into a wago connector 13:10 min on the video ?
I never realised until a few years ago they add carbon black powder to black plastic so it lasts a long time with UV exposure...thinking about it all the bits of plastic on cars are black!
@12:18, I am a little perplexed, it looks like you have used a compression gland on the SWA and then a E1W gland (or similar) on the Flex?
09:10 - Explains he ran out of glands
10:38 - Shows the red gland covered by an swa boot
Is there a drain hole on the wiska boxes?
Do English electricians still use a red and black cable for a switch wire??
What a joy that lot was! Loving the top entry box too.........NOT 😜😉
lol kk i was like wow is that standard practice over in GB to use top entry and for the longest time i never thought you GB sparks used glands lol
I'd have probably glanded one end of the armoured with an earthing nut inside the box. At least one end of the SWA could be earthed then. Nice sparkies plaster by the way.
100% it’s an exposed conductive part
A conductive part which can readily be touched?
@@tomorichard yeah I agree mate. The armouring could potentially remain live under fault conditions if not earthed. I would have glanded especially since it's buried. You couldn't see how deep the SWA was buried, there's always a chance a spade or whatever could damage the cable.
@@Cjrelectrical potentially if the outer sheath is damaged in the future. The punters aren't always as careful around cables as us sparks 😉
@@Cjrelectrical and I'm not having a go by the way mate. U could see the original install was dog shit and you're making the best of a bad job. Not a perfect world by any stretch mate.
Personally all armoured cables should be glanded properly. On small cables like that it doesn't take long per gland to make them off. Glands with earth rings fitted ensures armouring earth all the way through the circuit.
love using 2.5:
No mater the length, you are never going to get into a fuss.
I'm in the states and I find your show very interesting does the UK have a box fill calculation
Yeah but with such low loads its not necessary obviously the more complex an installation is its something you will have to think about.
Most UK sparkles love seeing how you guys do the job over there too! So different in many ways 😁
8:15 No need to cut or drill Wiska boxes! To be fair, I have never seen that explained in any video (before this). However, I did work this out, the first time I used Wiska boxes. The clue here is that these are meant to be self sealing. If you cut or drill, you are going to compromise that seal. I must admit I was a bit nervous about opening the hole with a SWA gland. I was concerned that the metal gland would strip the PVC thread before the gland popped through. Happy to report: It did not, the PVC thread was not damaged and the seal was not compromised in any way. Hats off to Wiska boxes, I will be using them again.
Did you butcher the glad with a pair of grips too or use a spanner? :-)
Hate seeing jobs like this, nothing worse than refitting a d.i.y job done by someone who thought they knew about electric. Neat work mate btw👍🏼
Armoured cables need glanding at one end its a code 2 if not
Personally for me the lack of supplementary bonding to the SWA armouring I would class as C2 if found during a condition report. As for the works you are carrying out I’d imagine you would cover by issuing a MWC OR multi MWC. I would be unwilling to complete works without bonding the SWA as I’d be efficiently certifying that the installation is to BS7671.
Wouldn’t the SWA armoring be bonded at the other end? It’s not supposed to be bonded at both ends is it?
@@JasperJanssen Depends on the earthing arrangements of the property/site and how and what it's feeding. If you bond both ends, you need to make sure you don't create a situation where you could get a dangerous potential between different bonded/earthed points.
Hi nice video. Just one question was it all in SWA as I'm about to do a job using it been a long time since I have used it. So watching how you have done it has made me rethink about how I intend doing it. By the way I use a Kewtech 64 an love it.
I’ve since been back to this job and changed the whole lot for NYY cable
@@Cjrelectrical Thanks will check it out. What was the reason for changing it hopefully you will say in the video?
Those lights seem to flicker that extremely because they are running on 50Hz directly (instead of being PWM'ed at some kHz) and you're filming with 60fps.
Yes you should gland swa, but sometimes you have to come to an agreement with the customer and in my understanding if you are improving something it’s better than just leaving it. You can’t always use this as an excuse but in this case I give it the thumbs 👍🏻 up.
All of those SWA cables should have properly glanded and earthed! That is rough
Is it really necessary to tape the entire cable
nice instalasi👍
Why not gland the SWA properly? At least you’d be earthing the armour of the bits you’d connected, regardless of whether there’s a gland at the other end. I don’t see what the reason is, other than “couldn’t be arsed”.
If you're coming back Friday, perhaps you could get some sleeving and rid yourself of that insulation tape and then you'll have done a first class job ;)
Totally agree with you.
the armoured cables need earthing as if they were to get damaged the armouring would could become live and not trip nothing.
I was thinking about that, but if mechanical damage isn't a concern then you still have two layers of insulation between the copper and the armour, and the outer insulation means I don't think the armour would count as either an exposed conductive part or an extraneous conductive part, but not entirely sure...
If buried it has to be glanded correctly so that it was earthed for protection against any mechanical damage. However as it is used in the same way that twin and earth could had been used, I believe it is acceptable for it not to be bonded.
Although I don't agree with it.
Theoretically he could had used different cabling to save the hassle of using armoured but I am guessing the swa was already there to be re used.
Personally I'd had made all the joints off correctly and carried the swa through so in my eyes it was done properly.
I think it's in the British standard for armoured cables that they recommend the armour be earthed at the supply end.
One end of swa should be correctly glanced but hey it’s your job and I also hate making off swa 😃
2:16 This box looks same my newer Wiska Combi 306 boxes. This is not installed in the 1950's.
Why the UK customer change installations so often? Why so many people make buggy DIY work same here in Thailand? Here I see it so often.
When did he say it was from the 1950s? That's obviously a new Wiska box and the SWA is new colours so it's max like 12 years old.
"Pre-Freded boxes" 😁
Looked to me like the bootlace ferrules were too short to go fully home in the wago ? (Up to the end of the window) The insulation diameter at the crimp looks too big ?
10:53 those ferrules should be uninsulated as they don't allow the wire to fully seat into the connector.
hahaha 28 degrees and it's way too hot eh!! Come live in Queensland, Australia mate. 28 is winter lol.
23c is my cut off point anything above that is torture.
Anything below 15C in most parts of Australia is "cold", but it does get much colder in Tasmania and some of the southernmost areas of the country.
One big error. It is not allowed to mark a isolated cable with yellow/green tape. The wire has to keep its color code trough the hole length.
Then input on the top of a box. Big mistake outdoors. There is always water coming inside the junction box.
I don't agree with not earthing the armourings
Well, you said it: Armour. A shield. A mechanical reinforcement for earth-laid cables. The first thing that breaks (and that's how it should be!), because it's outside and rigid. This is not a reliable earthing, not by electrical standards or mechanical ones. In contrary it serves the purpose of protecting the cable from injuries.
For signal leading cables (with a shielding) this is a whole other situation and also serves a completely different purpose.
When you use the bootlaces on the flex, do they push right into the ideal connectors?
Often wondered this whilst doing similar and always turned to the lever type connections
Yeah leave the copper slightly longer than the crimp and it goes straight in. I generally use the lever type but though it might be a good thing to show if you find yourself short of the lever ones.
Is this Bubble's Shed and Breakfast?
Thanks
I love 308 boxes but does anyone use the crappy connector block that comes with them??
Chris - not enough socks on this one mate!
Nope, always throw them out and use Wagos.
Nope, straight in the bin hahaha
@8:50 get yourself a knipex pliers wrench instead of cobra so you wont leave marks
One thing that I find strange is that people chew the nuts/bolts/glands etc up for no reason, you could even use an adjustable.
Good
Socks on point again 😆😆😆
Why don't you put a bond on SWAs.. that doesnt comply with BS7671.. just because the previous sparky didn't do it they should all be connected to earth!
Is it a conductive part that can readily be touched? And I totally agree with you if the cable is buried in the ground yes it should be connected to earth.
@@Cjrelectrical sorry but an SWA armouring is "always" connected to earth" I am just trying to help.. is not your problem the previous sparky didn't do it.. inform the customer of this.. tell them they need to be reconnected, if the say no offer a dangerous installation certificate and walk away.. thanks.
@@Cjrelectrical sorry just to add.. I doesnt matter if burried or not.. Thanks..
@@Cjrelectrical Hey Chris.. Further to this.. (as I'm boring).. just had a chat with a manufacturer of cables on my tea break.. he sent me the following comment. "Further to our discussion this morning, with regards to terminating the armouring of an SWA cable, we strongly recommend that the SWA is always effectively earthed in all conditions.
To facilitate this, a BW or CW Gland should always be used" now I know he says should be! In your case and as you are trying to promote good practice the SWAs should be earthed.. Young lads/apprentices will watch your channel and copy your example.. I'll get off my high horse now.. all the best.
Thanks for the feedback much appreciated paul. I’m going back to the job on Friday to Earth the swa incomers then change the swa for NYY cables. No doubt il film it
Did I miss the swa being connected to earth?
Yes certainly I’m back to sort the supply end out that’s buried under the ground .
I have a 1.5mm seperate cable connected to a b6 mcb in the house directly to a fcu on the lounge wall to directly go through the wall to an outside junction box and feed outside fence lights with swa
Is the flex going to the lights UV rated?
Of course it’s black weather resistant flex why would I fit anything less?
CJR ELECTRICAL just checking , calm down 🤣🤣🤣🤣