Orchid Haul: Cymbidiums from New World Orchids - Asian species (goeringii, ensifolium, and sinense)
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- In today's episode, I'm sharing my latest orchid haul from New World Orchids. I got some Asian cymbidiums and I can't wait to share them with you! It's my first time getting these cymbidiums, so if you know how to take care of these orchids, please let me know in the comments below.
Orchids featured:
- Cymbidium goeringii 'Tian Cao'
- Cymbidium ensifolium 'Yi Hong Shuang Jiao'
- Cymbidium sinense 'Tai Ping Yang'
- Cymbidium sinesnse 'Yang Ming Jin'
“Introduction to East Asian Cymbidiums” by Michael Hwang: • "An Introduction to Ea...
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Growing Environment
Orange County, Southern California (USA)
Zone 10B: Subtropical/Hot-semi arid climate - hot, dry summers / mild winters with low to moderate rainfall
Average Summer Outdoor Temperatures: 63-83F
Average Winter Outdoor Temperatures: 48-70F
Average Rainfall: 13 inches/year
Indoor Temperatures: 65-85F
Indoor Humidity 40-60%
East/West facing windows
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THINGS I USE:
- Self-watering pots: amzn.to/2Fl5lAm
- Sphagnum Moss: amzn.to/2FlqZVx
- Seedling Bark: amzn.to/2FjH8dH
- MSU Fertilizer for Well Water: amzn.to/2RfKTne
- Nutricote Slow Release Fertilizer: amzn.to/33kwQlI
- Seaweed Supplement: amzn.to/3ikIdR0
- Silica Supplement: amzn.to/2GLYS21
- Miticide for Spider Mites: amzn.to/2FlAIuO
- pH Meter: amzn.to/3dq5XS9
- TDS Meter: amzn.to/2IiHu5J
- Plant Moisture Sensor: amzn.to/370Bb16
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description may be affiliate links. If you purchase a product with the links provided I may receive a small commission. Thank you for supporting Attainable Green so I can continue to make awesome content for you to enjoy! #orchids #orchidhaul #cymbidiums
I know how to grow these. I have posted multiple posts about Cymbidium goeringii culture in different groups including Facebook. Cymbidium goeringii is an advanced orchid to grow. It took me a long time to figure it out how to grow them. all the information in English is wrong, so all the information i obtained are from Chinese and Japanese literature and my japanese Cymbidium goeringii vendors. It requires very specific conditions so it's very complicated to explain.
Regarding the size of the plants. Although all the Chinese literature states that a minimum bs size is 3 mature bulbs. I don't really agree with since in Japan, I have seen my vendor posting a 10+ growth plant as a medium seedling. To consider a blooming size plant, It must have a minimum of 3 pseudobulbs. Each bulb must have at least 5 leaves per growth. it must have a very healthy root system. I purchased an orange variety Cym. goeringii that only has 3 bulbs but it has between 10-15 white long roots. Only in this condition, I consider it as a blooming size. When I purchase, I only purchase blooming size only. I always request blooming size plant, with minimum 6 growths with 2 leads. My Cym. goeringii blooms every year.
Potting Mix: I only use Asian Cymbidium potting mix from Japan ONLY. It is a mix of 3 kinds of pumices: Hard Kanuma, Baked Akadama, and Satsuma in a predetermined ratio. I buy 3 grades of the mix, Large, Medium, and Small. To pot it traditionally, Large grade 10% bottom pot, Medium Grade 80% of the pot (the main body), and Small Grade, top 10% of the pot. This is the method and the potting material described in all the books I read, so this is the standard, nothing special. However, it is not possible to get this potting material anywhere in North America or Europe (believe me, I have searched for many many years). So, the easiest way to get the potting mix is to fly to Japan. I have seen people use 50% bark and 50% pumice as the potting mix, but it is hit and miss. The plant health is mediocre most of the time, the foliage look sparse, and they don't bloom. There is a reason why the Asians use this East Asian Cymbidium Mix. Once it is potted in this mix, it grows like any other orchids.
1. Watering (based on the mix): I water it once every 6 days to 14 days depending on the season (there are 4 watering schedules, one for each season).
2. Lighting: Morning sun only. In the summer time (mid June to mid Sept), give it even shadier condition. Winter can take more sun.
3. Temperature: It requires 4 conditions, Spring; intermediate range (15C-22C), Summer (25C-30C), Fall: intermediate range (15C-22C), Winter cold range (0C-10C). Cymbidium goeringii must be grown in the temperature specified, no higher or lower.
4. Humidity: 50%-70% at all times. They hate low humidity.
5. Location: You want to grow them outdoor as much as possible. I live in Toronto, Canada, so I can only grow them outdoor from May to Halloween. Since they require very specific growing space, from May to Halloween, they are placed separately from my Western Orchids such as Cattleya, Dendrobidiums, and Paphs that are grown outdoor. They have a dedicated space outdoor. From early Nov to end of April, I grow in a special room in the basement dedicated to Cymbidium goeringii. This room meets the winter conditions.
6. Fertilizer: I only use slow release fertilizer from Asia, dedicated for East Asian Cymbidiums only, so I only fertilize once a year in the spring.
7. Flower bud Initiation (for Cym goeringii and Cym. faberi): The flower bud will only come out from a mature pseudobulb (5 leaves minimum on the growth) and at least 2 years old. A mature growth decides whether or not to bud in mid June (you cannot see it because it is below the pseudobulb). Then, the flower bud is initiated from end of July to early August you might be able to see it). By Halloween, the flower bud should reach to about 3cm-5cm poking out from the surface of the pot. At this time, depending on the flower colour of the clone, extra techniques/shading are required. Once the flower bud reaches 3cm-5cm by Halloween, it will stop growing and stay this way pretty much 1 month before blooming (end of Feb to mid April).
8 How to bloom (vernalization, for Cym. goeringii and Cym. faberii): From mid Dec until the flower blooms, vernalization is required for the bud to finish developing and bloom out in the spring. If you don't know what vernalization means, google it. During this period, the temperature range must be between 0C-10C at all times. Day time high can never exceeds 14C, if the daytime temperature exceeds 14C for an extended period of time, the flower bud will blast. The reason is that when the temperature is at 14C for an extended period of time, it triggers the growth mode, so the engery is diverted (not enough energy for the flower bud to develop). During this time, the temperature in the growing room is always between 6C-11C at all times with 50%-70% humdity.
So from budding (end of July to August) to blooming (end of Feb to mid April), it takes about 9 months to for the bud to develop and bloom. So it is very hard to keep the buds alive for 9 months without blasting it. With the potting mix and the correct conditions, my blasting rate is only about 10% (so 90% of the buds bloom out in the spring).
Now, all my Cymbidium goeringii have started budding and they will bloom again next year.
This culture will work for all East Asian Cymbidiums including Cym. ensifolium, Cym. sinese, Cym. kanran, and Cym. faberii. The only differences are the winter conditions:
Cym ensifolium, from mid Dec to mid March, temp should be between 15C-17C (no higher no lower)-vernalization is not required to bloom. They will spike anytime from April to Sept.
Cym sinense, from mid Dec to mid March, temp should be between 10C-15C (No higher and no lower)-vernalization is not required bloom. They will spike in late fall into early winter and usually blooms around Chinese New Year.
Cym. kanran, from mid Dec to mid March, temp should between between 4C-10c (no higher and no lower)-vernalization is not required to bloom. Cym. karan spikes in early fall and needs large temp difference between day and night to produce vibrant flower colours and good flower shape. Blooms in late fall into early winter, after it finishes blooming, then give them this temperature range in the winter.
Cym. faberi: same as Cym. goeringii and vernalization is required. The vernalization period is longer than Cym. goeringii, it blooms from mid April into may (after Cym. goeringii flowering season).
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Getting info on these plants has been tough so I am so glad for this 😁
@@AttainableGreen yes, very hard. All the information in English is wrong. The only correct information are written in Chinese Japanese, and Korean. If you can read one of these languages, then you wll be able to find the correct information on these Asian Cymbidiums. All the informaton in AOS (American Orchid Society) and American Cymbidium Society are all wrong. The information and protocol they provide are for tropical and subtropical standard and miniature hybrid cymbidiums (semi-epiphytic cymbidiums and epiphyte cymbidiums). East Asian Cymbidiums are temperate terrestrial orchids, so the rules for hybrid cymbidiums described in these societies do not apply. There is a reason why you don't see them in North American and European Orchid shows because people kill them all the time or cannot ever bloom them because they assume these cymbidiums can be grown like any cymbidiums (no you cannot).
@Candy Chan Thank you for sharing your knowledge of growing Asian cymbidiums. Not sure whether you read Cymbidium ensifolium By Ned Nash. Hope his writing has some value.
@@laboheme4811 Thank you for the informaton. I obtain all the information on history and culture from Chinese and Japanese Asian Cymbidium books only. I only trust the information I read from these books and direct communication with East Asian Cymbidium vendors (these vendors only grow East Asian Cymbidiums). All the books and vendors pretty much provide the same information. Pretty much all the cultural information on East Asian Cymbidiums written in English is wrong, and his article is no exception. Cymbidium ensifolium is a warm growing species in the summer, so I doubt it will do very well in an intermediate greenhouse. Also, all East Asian Cymbidiums doesn't require a lot of light (morning sun only), the broadleaf type (C. ensifolium and C sinense) will tolerate less light than the thinleat type (C. goeringii, C. faberi). I only give them morning sun only and no sunlight after 11:30am at all times. Yes, I agree with him that they must be grown outdoor as much as possible, whevenever possible. I live in Toronto Canada so i can only grow them outdoor from early May to early November. For the rest of the month, I have no choice but to grow them in my basement room underlight which is set up specifically for them. I only grow all my East Asian Cymbidiums in the traditional culture methods (standard culture practice in Asia). I imported everything from japan directly including potting materials, orchid pots, and orchid racks for East Asian Cymbidiums, so it is just easier and everything is standardized. East Asian Cymbidiums are intermediate to advanced orchids to grow and bloom. C. ensifolium is the easiest one so it will live growing in non-traditional methods but will not thrive. it doesn't bloom well when growing in the non-traditioanl methods. This is my experience/summary with East Asian Cymbidiums. The last part about hybridization, i don't too much because I only grow species orchids, no hybrids.
@@candychan3106 Hi Candy, many thanks for sharing all this information and knowledge with us; that's true there is no information in English. May I ask you something about the three component substrates (stones)? Could you suggest how many "mm" they have to be? They are sold for instance in 1-3 mm, 3-6 mm, 6-10 mm. Has akadama be 6-10 mm, Kanuma 3-6 mm, satsuma 1-3 mm? Many thanks in advance, I would really appreciate your response.
I hope you're okay and I really hope you come back. I keep checking! I need more Asian cymbidium info!
Very neat Cymbidiums! I hope they do great for you! Can't wait to see your journey with them. 😊
Thanks! So far, so good 😁
I want to grow Asian cymbidiums too. They're are so elegant in those taller pots
They do look quite elegant...those pots just make everything look a little nicer 😁
East Asian Cymbidiums are intermediate to advanced orchids (C. ensifolium, C. sinense, C. kanran, C. goeringii, and C. faberii-ordered from the easiest to the hardest species). To grow them properly (I have not seen anyone in North America who grow them properly) it requires a lot of planning. It is very complicated to grow them. You need to find the potting materials for them (they are all terrestrial orchids), also you need to figure out if you have the conditions for them (they require very specific conditions and each species is a little bit different). By potting them into an Asian Cymbidium Pot doesn't mean that you are growing an Asian Cymbidium.
It,s a beautifull orchid
Thank you so much! this video has been very helpfull and quite informative on other species of cymbidium. i was so lucky to obtain two white cymbidiums at the local supermarket in the Netherlands. so my curiosity has been sparked. now i am obsessed and want to learn more on how to care for this beautifull asian flower.
Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it..and I hope you’ll continue to grow Cymbidiums 😁
I grow sinense and ensifolium indoors here in fort lauderdale, florida. They grow well and bloom for me :)
That’s awesome! 😄
They are gorgeous, Jess!!! I am a Cymbidium lover but only have hybrids. Species are incredibly expensive over here 🙃
Thanks! These are imports so they come in stock a few times a year...I can see how they can be expensive in other countries. I love hybrids too and I am still figuring out which ones to get 🤣
Hi Jess, can you please do an update on this video, now that you have more experience with them. Has any of them bloomed yet for you?
I think Seattle Orchid has them sometimes... I just can’t have too many cymbidium.... they are so large.... I let my wife order some orchids from my supplier, she ordered 6 cymbidiums.... lucky it’s gotten a bit warmer so they are all outside now. I don’t know what to do with them! Taking so much space! 🤣🤣🤣
Haha yea, that’s why I didn’t get the standard Cymbidiums...but the sinense ended up being larger than I expected. Guess I will have to make some room somewhere 🤣
I have only one. The ensifolium. Not growing well. I think I have given it too little fertiliser, so when I did the repot and changed to a smaller Asian cymbidium pot, I added slow releasing fertiliser as well.
Haven't yet got it right, but getting there. 😊 What is the temperature range these supposed to have? I'm bit unsure and have kept it probably too warm.
Other than that, these are great and lovely orchids to grow. Hoping to have more later. Once I get the care right.
Take care.
The ensifolium is grown warmer than the other species in the winter season. From what I have seen, spring/fall temps: 17-23C, summer: 25-30C (increased shade), winter:15-17C. Good luck!🍀
@@AttainableGreen thank you! Hope to succeed this year.
If it's grown in the wrong potting mix, it will die. To grow it properly, East Asian Cymbdium mix must be used (a mix of hard kanuka, baked akadama, and satsuma). All East Asian Cymbidiums (C. ensifolium, C. sinense, C. kanran, C. goeringii, C. faberii) are terrestrial orchids. Also, unlike a regular standard/miniature Cymbidiums, they hate fertlizer, the more you fertlize, the quicker it dies. I only use slow release fertlizer designed for East Asian Cymbidiums and I only fertlize once in the spring. If the roots are not good, you cannot fertlize for at least 1 year, you can only resume fertlizing after the roots start to grow. It requires warm to hot temp in the summer (25C-30C) from June to Sept, upper intermediate temp in the spring and fall (20C-25C) and lower intermediate in the winter (15C-20C). They require high humidity (50-70% at all times) and prefer outdoor, hate indoor, so you must grow them outdoor as much as possible. You can only provide morning sun (no sun past 11am) and in the summer time when it's hot, more shade is required.
@@candychan3106 I have already read your advice to fertilize a little these CYMBIDIUM and I plan to add 4 or 5 pellet balls in the spring. But I ask you if you think adding algae extracts like kelpak could be positive or not. Thank you
Can you give the name or place for the two grower? Would like to get more information to purchase. Thanks
I love these Asian cymbidiums! What is the media you used for them?
They’re pretty neat! The media is similar to an inorganic bonsai mix - akadama, Kanuma, pumice, and perlite. The first two are clay-like materials with akadama being pH neutral (7) and kanuma having a slightly acidic pH of 5.5.
@@AttainableGreen For Cym. goeringii, I would not use regular akadama and regular kanuma. I only use baked akadama and hard kanuma and satsuma blend from Japan. 3 grades already mixed in a predetermined ratio. Regular kanuma and regular akadama are too soft, they crumble too easily so you probably have to repot every year (which is not good for the plant).
For Cym. goeringii, I would not use regular akadama and regular kanuma. I only use baked akadama and hard kanuma and satsuma blend from Japan. 3 grades already mixed in a predetermined ratio. Regular kanuma and regular akadama are too soft, they crumble too easily so you probably have to repot every year (which is not good for the plant).
Beautiful acquisitions and video! I have two, one species (sinense f. alba) and one hybrid (Golden Elf). I read that they don't need a cold spell to trigger a spike, so I didn't give mine. And, they didn't bloom, but put on new growths 😭 Looking forward to your experience and any tips in blooming them.
I am fairly new to growing them, so it will make a video about their progress later in the year. The species takes about 2 years to mature 1 growth so it may be a while before I can share tips for blooms 😁
No they don't, I don't know where the information is from, but it's wrong. With the correct potting mix and culture, it will trigger flower spikes.
@@candychan3106 Do they need a drop in temperature to initiate a spike? Thx.
@@Kokoro-Hime Depending what species, For Cym. ensifolium, Cym. goeringii, and Cym faberi NO, for Cym sinense, Cym. kanran would help, but it's not required. However, for Cym. kanran, you need the temp drop in the month of September (very specific this month), so that the flower colour and lip pattern (especially for spotty leaf variety), the daily temperature differential of 10C is required. If the temperature differentiatial is not met, then the variety with a spotty lip will bloom without a spot, also the flower petal colour will also be off.
@@candychan3106 Thanks, Candy! I'll The parentage of Golden Elf is 50% ensefolium. Great info! I appreciateyou taking the time.
I am a beginner to Asian Orchids like you. I recently bought some Cym Ensifolium, and Sinense. I am wondering if Cym Goeringii can bloom in the weather of Southern California. I am living in LA area which is hotter than OC area.
I was able to bloom the goeringii this past season, so it’s possible. The key is the cooler winter temps to help buds mature. Keeping the plant outside during the winter season may be beneficial.
I have two seedling Asian cymbidiums that came with a seedling bundle I purchased last year. They are growing their second growth now but I am having so much trouble finding any care information in English. I’m so glad I found you! I have Cym Bungy jumper X finlaysonianum alba (the tag 🏷️ is worn so I may have misspelled the second cross) and I also have Cym Aussie Dreamtime Pakkret (mericlone). I don’t see any bulbs forming so I’m worried I’m not watering enough or something. I live in Wa. State so they are inside with 60% humidity. Any information you have would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Have you seen Michael Hwang's talk about Asian cymbidiums? It's very good, search RUclips if not. I feel like so few of us outside of China and Japan are growing these cyms that we really need to help each other out. Hwang says pretty much all the info in English is wrong and I trust him on that. What I've learnt so far is that the plants do like plenty of water - they hate to dry out completely. They also prefer to be outdoors when possible - at least over the summer. They need a hot summer to thrive.
Very late response, hope you see it.