I work at a cabinet shop, previous to that I was a trim carpenter. I had zero interest in any sort of the machines or the automation process until they showed me how to run a 2000 homag weeke . It’s all dot to dot grid system. I’ll upload some videos. It’s so cool. It Opened up a a whole new world to me. I’m currently looking for a hobby CNC. I’ve learned so much from your channel. You create great content. It’s very informative, presented well, and as in-depth as you need, but it doesn’t get boring. Thank you so much. I leave maybe six comments a year. I really appreciate you taking the time to teach people like me things that you’ve learned through trial and error. Definitely my favorite channels on RUclips. You and a @Ave
This guy actually is very good, I agree. I worked at a cabinet shop back in the 90s and programmed an "Italian named" CNC but we figured out if you have it in the computer than we can drill every hole and such perfectly. No residential and had to do the math in polar coordinates but was game changer. Most that have these don't seem to have cabinet design skills, was kinda surprised but hopefully you pulled the trigger.
Thank you, very impressive. I am just starting the build on the KillerBee, opted for this over the newer design and just having my plates water jetted now. I knew it would do aluminium but not at those depths and it was a nice surprise to see it cope with mild steel as well. I want to be able to use mine on Hardwoods, some aluminium and definitely on Brass and Copper. I have a small mill already on my Lathe so forme this is a really big step up to be able to mill the material with a CNC, I already have a Workbee which I use for normal wood and of course that is using rollers, I think once I get to grips with the KB I may well upgrade the workbee to at least single linear rails on the Y axis . Thanks very much.
Hey, idk if for you it's the same problem and if you still haven't figured it out but I had these random stops you're talking about, using a different controller but also using mach3. I was reading something unrelated, about idling cpu cores and it dawned on me that it could have something to do with the machine stopping. Now I just let some 12 hour long video or something playing in the background and the issue goes away.
I think in my case it was the controller and not the pc that has the issue. When it freezes, the pc still works normally but the controller is unresponsive. I ended up fixing the issue by switching to a Masso controller instead of Mach3.
Great machine overall i have it for 6 months now. Only downside i can speak of is the amount of wobble i have on the Lead Screws (my machine is 1010 size). Do you have any similar issues too? If yes what did you do to fix it?
How fast are you going when you have the issue? I found that I can put the rapids up to 3000mm/min on the y axis (which is also 1m) before I get too much screw whip. If you numbers are significantly less, make sure you properly tightened the end supports who should be pulling on the screws to help stabilize them.
@@DarkArtGuitars Hello! I have tightened the leadscrews and have also changed the thrust bearings to a bit more beefier ones. I can get like up to 4000mm/min speeds with no issue, but by the sound(when it moves) and looks (amount of wiggle) it just doesnt feel right. I mean okay they could have used beefier leadscrews more than 8 mm thick to get rid of the problem. When the leadscrew starts to move out of the axis of rotation you start hearing that rubbing sound it makes on those tight Nut Block threads. Such a nice design for the price, but that is my only concern about the whole assembly that iff done differently (with just thicker leadscrews) could make it perfect.
Very impressive results indeed. Thank you for showing me my request of flexing frame with hands, seems quite similar to Openbuild cnc but the results are far superior or maybe I need to significantly up my alu game, I cut hardwood and just peeked into alu for couple of parts. Personally, as an owner of quite close machine, what would be curious for me to see in the future is an example part out of aluminium which involves different cutting strategies (especially 2d contour cutting out the part) and the attached fusion 360 file with complete CAM, that would compliment your voice info a lot. The voice does not really translate that well for me into hard numbers as a file which you can go slowly through. I am sure quite a few people would be curious as well. Also don't forget to mention which aluminium you cutted. I buy my mills from ali as well and find them very impressive for hard wood ( like real hard wood wenge, ipe etc.) Btw I have not heard any chatter in your cuts to call them bad, just some load, the 10mm still was not sounding that bad just getting close, at least in my lame wood cutting opinion ,over time I upped my cutting speeds like 5x after a while in certain cuts no real loss in quality plus you generate far less heat but gumminess of alu is an issue for sure...
I haven't really experienced any chatter (except when using too long endmills), the main thing that was limiting is the endmill loading up with chips and gumming, leading to more heat, recutting of chips,... Probably would improve quite a bit with some mist cooling. Apart from that the harder you go the more flex there will be, so just make sure to do a light finishing pass to hit dimensions. The audio on the video also sounds a lot more calm than what it sounded like to me, but I also don't have that much as a reference.
@@DarkArtGuitars yeah, and also the hardest part to get good videos on, alsom tramming the cnc, and calibrating the movment om the axes.. i have a queenbee pro built, still need to calibrate and learn the programs tho.. do you use fusion 360 as cam? thank you for the great content btw :)
@@bjopleif I do, check out NYC CNC in case you don't watch them already. They have quite a few Fusion CAM videos, though most of them very specific but you can still learn a lot.
If you need high accuracy, repeatability and no wear, the Kern Micro HD it is. But its also damn expensive. The company where i work will buy a new 5 axis CNC probably next year, maybe a Kern, maybe a HSC MP7 who knows.
I am quite scared of that, that's why I have only bought inexpensive Chinese tools so far. Once I'm more comfortable I might invest in some higer quality ones, but for now I'm quite happy with $2-5 tools.
I work at a cabinet shop, previous to that I was a trim carpenter. I had zero interest in any sort of the machines or the automation process until they showed me how to run a 2000 homag weeke . It’s all dot to dot grid system. I’ll upload some videos. It’s so cool. It Opened up a a whole new world to me. I’m currently looking for a hobby CNC. I’ve learned so much from your channel. You create great content. It’s very informative, presented well, and as in-depth as you need, but it doesn’t get boring. Thank you so much.
I leave maybe six comments a year. I really appreciate you taking the time to teach people like me things that you’ve learned through trial and error. Definitely my favorite channels on RUclips. You and a @Ave
This guy actually is very good, I agree. I worked at a cabinet shop back in the 90s and programmed an "Italian named" CNC but we figured out if you have it in the computer than we can drill every hole and such perfectly. No residential and had to do the math in polar coordinates but was game changer. Most that have these don't seem to have cabinet design skills, was kinda surprised but hopefully you pulled the trigger.
Thank you, very impressive. I am just starting the build on the KillerBee, opted for this over the newer design and just having my plates water jetted now. I knew it would do aluminium but not at those depths and it was a nice surprise to see it cope with mild steel as well. I want to be able to use mine on Hardwoods, some aluminium and definitely on Brass and Copper.
I have a small mill already on my Lathe so forme this is a really big step up to be able to mill the material with a CNC, I already have a Workbee which I use for normal wood and of course that is using rollers, I think once I get to grips with the KB I may well upgrade the workbee to at least single linear rails on the Y axis .
Thanks very much.
Thal you for the great review, it's very tempting to get one to play with.
Hey, idk if for you it's the same problem and if you still haven't figured it out but I had these random stops you're talking about, using a different controller but also using mach3. I was reading something unrelated, about idling cpu cores and it dawned on me that it could have something to do with the machine stopping. Now I just let some 12 hour long video or something playing in the background and the issue goes away.
I think in my case it was the controller and not the pc that has the issue. When it freezes, the pc still works normally but the controller is unresponsive. I ended up fixing the issue by switching to a Masso controller instead of Mach3.
Great machine overall i have it for 6 months now. Only downside i can speak of is the amount of wobble i have on the Lead Screws (my machine is 1010 size). Do you have any similar issues too? If yes what did you do to fix it?
You can put leadscrew in tension....google tingle tension system :)
How fast are you going when you have the issue? I found that I can put the rapids up to 3000mm/min on the y axis (which is also 1m) before I get too much screw whip. If you numbers are significantly less, make sure you properly tightened the end supports who should be pulling on the screws to help stabilize them.
@@DarkArtGuitars Hello! I have tightened the leadscrews and have also changed the thrust bearings to a bit more beefier ones. I can get like up to 4000mm/min speeds with no issue, but by the sound(when it moves) and looks (amount of wiggle) it just doesnt feel right. I mean okay they could have used beefier leadscrews more than 8 mm thick to get rid of the problem. When the leadscrew starts to move out of the axis of rotation you start hearing that rubbing sound it makes on those tight Nut Block threads. Such a nice design for the price, but that is my only concern about the whole assembly that iff done differently (with just thicker leadscrews) could make it perfect.
@@unique93obr I did put the leadscrew in tension, and also i dont believe that you need that tingle tension system thingie to do so
@@kotsios1234567 maybe ypu just need to grease it a little bit... :)
Use lytium grease for leadscrews :)
One of my favorite channels 👌🏻
Very impressive results indeed. Thank you for showing me my request of flexing frame with hands, seems quite similar to Openbuild cnc but the results are far superior or maybe I need to significantly up my alu game, I cut hardwood and just peeked into alu for couple of parts. Personally, as an owner of quite close machine, what would be curious for me to see in the future is an example part out of aluminium which involves different cutting strategies (especially 2d contour cutting out the part) and the attached fusion 360 file with complete CAM, that would compliment your voice info a lot. The voice does not really translate that well for me into hard numbers as a file which you can go slowly through. I am sure quite a few people would be curious as well. Also don't forget to mention which aluminium you cutted.
I buy my mills from ali as well and find them very impressive for hard wood ( like real hard wood wenge, ipe etc.)
Btw I have not heard any chatter in your cuts to call them bad, just some load, the 10mm still was not sounding that bad just getting close, at least in my lame wood cutting opinion ,over time I upped my cutting speeds like 5x after a while in certain cuts no real loss in quality plus you generate far less heat but gumminess of alu is an issue for sure...
I haven't really experienced any chatter (except when using too long endmills), the main thing that was limiting is the endmill loading up with chips and gumming, leading to more heat, recutting of chips,... Probably would improve quite a bit with some mist cooling. Apart from that the harder you go the more flex there will be, so just make sure to do a light finishing pass to hit dimensions.
The audio on the video also sounds a lot more calm than what it sounded like to me, but I also don't have that much as a reference.
You should make a beginners guide to the cam, and controller usage for new users :)
Once I've figured it out myself I'll consider it. Definitely the hardest part and I'm far from feeling comfortable with it myself.
@@DarkArtGuitars yeah, and also the hardest part to get good videos on, alsom tramming the cnc, and calibrating the movment om the axes.. i have a queenbee pro built, still need to calibrate and learn the programs tho.. do you use fusion 360 as cam?
thank you for the great content btw :)
@@bjopleif I do, check out NYC CNC in case you don't watch them already. They have quite a few Fusion CAM videos, though most of them very specific but you can still learn a lot.
Lube the cut with a very small amount of WD40 once in a while and it will stop sticking to tool and machined surfaces
you are good men bro ,,,,,, from algeria ❤❤❤❤❤❤
What's your next machine, a Kern?
I wish...
If you need high accuracy, repeatability and no wear, the Kern Micro HD it is. But its also damn expensive. The company where i work will buy a new 5 axis CNC probably next year, maybe a Kern, maybe a HSC MP7 who knows.
3:40 now imagine you break a 200 dollar tool like i did (Through coolant carbide drill)
I am quite scared of that, that's why I have only bought inexpensive Chinese tools so far. Once I'm more comfortable I might invest in some higer quality ones, but for now I'm quite happy with $2-5 tools.
Ahhe AhhA hh Eehh Uuzhh, and youre speaking to fast. aaah eeehh ääh.
Good job mate,