Two Trucks Become One - Ford 460 Install on BUDGET Truck Build
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- Опубликовано: 25 фев 2024
- FINALLY getting the ford 460 set down in the Ford Super Duty frame. This dump truck build is gaining ground fast!
DISCLAIMER'. this is not a how to video and I am not responsible for any actions you take on your equipment or property
#mechanic
#captainkleeman
#ford 
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Mike you might want to think about using anti -seize on those stainless steel bolt because of dissimilar metals, I learned the hard way
Yea....I think grade 5 is heaviest in stainless that I've seen.
Ultrasonic cleaners are great for decreasing things like carburetors. Sand blasters are more for blowing rust off steel. Sand blasters put beads of sand in places you can get them back out of no matter how hard you try. Both have a place in my shop. Keep pushing Mike!
I see ultrasonics as parts washers that you don't have to stand and scrub at.
Sand blasters for things you need a wire wheel/brush for. One alternative to the standard air powered sandblaster is the kit that goes on the end of your pressure washer. You get the power of the pressure washer with grit for scrubbing action, but you don't get the air borne dust like air sand blasting (safer for the lungs)
Yeah, the two different methods are not substitutes for one another. Each has their purpose and strengths.
I agree with your summary . Also for the rusty stuff he might want a 5 gal bucket of EvapoRust, which is a set and forget while it soaks. Additionally, one can run a sandblast gun minus the cabinet - i.e. outdoors with goggles and mask - if you don't need to recover the media (or just use a tarp to catch it) . This works well for the large things like the frame or the 555 backhoe.
Yes- all these have a place but for what you're doing evaporust is the cheapest and best. When you get to the body, if you plan on painting, sandblasting with a pressure pot would be best probably. Ultrasonic is really more about what chemical you use (i.e. a degreaser or what ever- I know some people that use evaporust in their ultrasonic but I'd put in it a ziploc or something so it wouldn't etch your ultrasonic tank).
I have both a sandblasting cabinet and an ultrasonic cleaner. They are for two completely different uses. Dirty carbs, engine parts, etc, drop them in the ultrasonic cleaner. Brake carriers, control arms, mounting brackets all go in the sandblast cabinet. Sandblasting is better for corrosion, ultrasonic is better for grease and petroleum based grime.
The Kleeman Khronikles continue....it's good to see progress on the engine. Looks like the PTO didn't want to give up the ghost....looks like you burned it out so all is well there. That's pretty cool...one truck from three. You'll have an interesting story to pass along to your grandkids on that one. And can't leave out the ole 555.....dandy forklift, motor lift, body lift....just all kind of lifting going on the wonder tractor. As always....great channel, great content.
Being helped by your daughter was fantastic. Hold them tight because they grow up very fast. Thanks for the video.
Ultrasonic cleaners are just for cleaning. Small parts like like tubes and orifices in carburetors, but your watch also works fine. The added value for a project like this is minimal.
A regular parts cleaner, a box with a pump and a brush on a hose works perfect for getting motoroil and gunk of parts. These thing are realtively cheap, you can use a odourless degreaser like Nebol or petroleum.
A glass/sand blaster is a mechanical abrassive method to get paint and rust of parts. In a project like this it is a game changer in time saving. Just remember, you cannot get oil and gunk of with a sand blaster, at least in a cabinet, it will heavily contaminate everything.
So degreasing/cleaning first, then glass/sandblast. Another advantage from glass/sandblasting is a perfect surface for painting, at least when not using to coarse sand.
Always use anti-seize copper slip type stuff on stainless steel bolts - they gall as soon as you look at them
Mostly stainless on stainless.
Regular anit-seize or even Loctite PST works wonders going into cast iron or aluminum.
Thank you for posting this. I never understood why i had such a problem with torquing stainless bolts. It is because of this I bet. Was also concerned when Mike mentioned switching to stainless for this reason.
Nickle anti seize is what the manufacture recommends. 👍
@@hagak1679 if you're buying stainless steel bolts from an automotive company, they should come with their own specific torque specs. They will be different from the tech manual
@@CaptainKleeman yes. Because stainless has high nickel content, so there's no galvanic action.
Well look at that!!
80' subs passed, well earned i'll say.
One advantage of cleaning the engine up like that. If you develop an oil leak in the future, you will be able to spot it a lot easier. Keep up the good work enjoying every minute of it
Alright.., loved seeing the shop supervisor stopping in. Great assist by the little lady.
Good morning sunshine! Love when you said "throw them in the driveway & find them with my tire later!" Lol! Much love from Henderson Ga USA
Don't buy a benchtop blasting cabinet. With the size of stuff you work on, you need the full size. Bear in mind you need both very dry shop air, and a vacuum source to clear the cabinet of dust. Sandblasters are also great at keying surfaces you're going to paint, even if they don't have rust.
I also have a 6L ultrasonic cleaner. I keep it full of evaporust. Nuts and bolts go right into it as soon as they come off.
When POR15 first came out, the guy at the automotive paint supplier we used said that POR15 was better than sandblasting. Because the liquid will go down into pores and crevices that the silica sand can’t get to. It’s always worked for me (on old cars).
You are always good for a Chuckle, even if a Fella doesn’t want to Chuckle. Thank You Captain, Lord Willing I’ll Catch You on the Next One. Keep It Safe Out There
I have a Machine shop/Fab shop/ Motorcycle restoration shop - I have a Large Heated ultra-sonic Tank (stainless) and 4 Blast cabinets - One I have set up with cheap Play-sandbox sand (for nasty, rusty or greasy stuff) One is set up with glass Beads, One with Wet-Blasting /Vapor Blasting (also with glass beads) and a Small benchtop deal that I swap out whatever media I need -
I would never do something in the ultra sonic except Gummed up Carbs (Weed eater/ Briggs & Stratton/ Motorcycle/ Automotive) or maybe like a funky Master cylinder I was trying to rebuild- I use the blast cabinets for most every thing else, de-rusting, weld prep, paint prep, Powderocat prep, Nickel Plating prep, etc
BOTH blast cabinets and ultra sonics have their places in my shop- couldnt live without them all-
and if I need glass beads or sand removed from tiny holes or Oil Galleries, I use a burnsamatic torch or LP gas hot plate and a quench in the Parts washer and a blow out with rubber tipped blow gun - never had a problem in 30+ years
I appreciate the info! Thanks!
Anti-seize is your best friend if you want to be able to service it again. A little dab on the treads and the bolts/nuts will toque correctly and then come back out when you need to.
For your small cleanup it depends on how tuff the stuff is that you need to clean off. I have both and I prefer the ultrasonic cleaner for things like carburators, guages, little ball valves, and sensitive things however you have to wait a few minutes for the things to soak and the process of the cleaner. I like the bead blaster for rusty, painted or things that are really hard to clean. If you are going to paint what you clean the blaster may rough the surface with the sand dimples unless you use a very fine sand. Another way to clean parts is by soda blasting. The soda is a little slower than sand but it does not mar the surface and when you finish you can wash the soda off with water and it is gone. You don’t have to worry about sand being left in nooks and crevices. You can use soda on things that have glass in them and it will not bother rubber on things like car windows. Hope this helped.
My wife and I both agree, your young one there is so adorable.
👍Looks good. When ready to paint, think about using Rust-Oleum Topside Paint with a roll and tip method of application used to paint boats. You just use a small roller and someone follows you to smooth out with brush, lays flat while curing. I plan on painting my motorhome that way... cheap!
Ultrasonic cleaners are good for small, delicate parts, like carburetor pieces with specialized cleaners. Sand blaster for rusty parts. If you buy a sand blast cabinet, there are different abrasive materials of varying coarseness for more or less aggressively removing contaminents. If you buy a blast cabinet, get a screen to sift your your blast media thru periodically. It will definitely help. Just another thing to think about, you get what you pay for. The cheaper the cabinet, the more problematic they are. Clogs are an issue in all of them. Less in the better units. Cabinets are also air hogs. Good luck.
For grease, I’ve used diesel in a vat or some sort of pan and let it soak for a day or so and then I’d take a drill and a paddle to stir it around the loosen the grease and that worked well for cheap! Just a shade tree mechanics way to get by! I’m a welder but I do mechanical work if I have to! So I improvise to get by! I’ve even used a Binks gun and spay the cleaner on the parts!
At around 03:10 thats a blasting job.
Ultrasonic cleans but doesn take off rust or paint.
At 19:40 put a big hamer at 1 side and hamer 180 ° opposit. Works not always but has more impact than just hammering on it.
You've achieved a fine outcome there Kleeman, research research research.
4:35 This list of things you could take off and inspect/fix/replace makes me think of the book "If You Give A Mouse A Cookie." I think it would be quite lovely if, 5 years from now, a little family sits around the table at the RUclips Yacht and reads "If You Give A Man a Dump Truck" by Mike Kleeman, the sequel to the best selling "If You Give A Man A Backhoe." Start writing!
Love use of the word "gander".
Before applying coating you need a curtain roughness so the paint can adhieve/anchor to it, sand blasting will get you that anchor, the us cleaner won't, like painting on glass no bounding. Our contractor's shall always use SA 2 1/2 (free of rust, grease, scaling or other contaminations) for sandblasting or StT3.0 for machine cleaning. The company I work for, a former Akzo Nobel the company, always recommends/subscribes sandblasting. But sometimes it's not possible then we fall back to machine cleaning ST3 (bristle blast) as a compromise. Nice video your truck is getting there. Take's a lot of time but it's getting there.
Little miss Cora ain’t so little anymore. My wife and I both agree she definitely a spitting image of her Daddy. Also aren’t those cat litter buckets just the handiest things. 🐶
This truck going be a $100,000 truck when done. Keep up the great work
Keep it going, this is gonna be way nicer than I would have imagined
Man Mike…I’m betting that 100K play button ain’t far away! You’re gonna have a good ole truck when all done.
Very enjoyable viewing as always, thank you Mike 👍👍🇬🇧🇺🇸
Every time I see ya crouch down I just wonder how many times your knees are cracking, this truck is going be solid truck for sure. Glad ya opted for another parts truck much easy grabbing parts and swapping them out. Looking forward to the next video.
Cute little inspecter watching you.
Sonic cleaner is nice, but it also depends on how large the part is you're trying to clean. Larger parts won't fit in a sonic cleaner unless they have large one's that I am not aware of. It has been a long time for me turning wrenches like you are. But as far as I see you are doing a fantastic job. Ignore the nay sayers. You know what you want and what you can do. Keep up the good work.
Enclosed cabinet blaster is the way to go for small to medium pieces. Clean oil off first.
Howdy Captain, I have an ultrasonic cleaner & a small cabinet sandblaster. The ultrasonic won't do anything for rust! It's great for cleaning oils & solvents off metal. Sandblaster is awesome for cleaning rust off parts. Great video! Thumbs up! Jim
Get the ultrasonic cleaner. You will be amazed at how clean it gets everything. You can ever use pinesol in it for cleaning parts.😊
“Blow, tack and static” Robby Layton
Ultrasonic Cleaner, you can use some rust converter in the liquid also, just make sure you get the largest in your budget
For heavy to light rust the sand blaster, for greasy parts the ultrasonic cleaner, and also for greasy parts and light rust and paint there is a laser cleaner but that will set you back a few K in order to buy one. Watch Halfass kustoms for the laser cleaner/welder/cutter.
Mike you pulled the distributor out so have to put it back in time the #1 cylinder has to be at top dead center and the distributor rotor has to point to cylinder #1 spark plug on the cap. Then when you get it running loosen the distributor hold down bolt then turn the distributor clockwise or counterclockwise to make it run smooth or you can use a timing light just more accurate. I have a few of the good old obs’s great trucks they were the last of the real trucks till everything turned to comfort. Lol p.s good job and keep the videos coming
When tapping or threading with a die you need to stop and go backwards with the tap or die every turn or so to clear the clip out.
Mike, There is a third option for cleaning up parts. Electrolysis will etch off rust and leave you a blackened but clean part. Obviously, you are limit by the size of the container. You can use a battery or a battery charger, Sacrificial metal as the anode. I think I've seen a piece or two laying around your place. Electrolysis works best on iron and steel. Do not attempt electrolysis on stainless steel, since it can release toxic chromium gas. No fancy ingredients required.
For the rusty brackets and random parts , degrease them , them , acid bath .
You can get the super high dollar evaprust for ~ $30 / gallon , or , just use regular white vinegar ( 5% acetic acid ) for a few dollars / gallon .
You could also buy a gallon of super vinegar ( 30% acetic acid ) , add to 5 gallons of water and have 6 gallons of 5% acetic acid .
Knock of the big scale and loose stuff and let the parts soak for a few days , then hose em off .
Almost as good as evaporust for a while lot less money .
Keep hammering on that project , it's looking better everyday .
I still prefer sandblasting cabinet I made from plywood. Works great for cleaning rusty parts and prepping for paint. You just have to use a bit more coarse medium. It makes job faster. And 100L compressor seems fine.
you sure have patience, to sit with that dremel. we need to get you more stuff
That grey looks great Mike! I use the Rustolem undercoat on a lot of different projects! I would use the cork gaskets on the valve covers, they last longer without leaking in my opinion! It never hurts to be safe, and RTV works for me too! It’s a little bit of insurance! lol 😂 😂
I'm enjoying your truck project videos. Your rebuild is coming along nicely. Nice to see your helper in the shop. W. S. in Canada.
We are going to have to work on your attitude, getting mad an frustrated, throwing scrap around the shop, c'mon man, this is a family channel. 😁😁😁😂😂😂😂😂😂
Keep a rockin', alot of us wished we had the get up and go to do half of what you do. Loved the gymnasium project.
Try welding a washer to the broken bolt first then weld the nut to the washer on the outside and the inside.
I have both a blast cabinet and ultrasonic cleaner. I repair/restore small equipment (mostly lawn equipment) and BOTH tools are essential for what I'm doing. I got the Harbor Freight SKU: 68893 blast cabinet $230, and I use mostly aluminum oxide as a blast media. I bought a 10-liter ultrasonic cleaner on Amazon, $170. As always, budget is an issue for most or all of us. If you can only swing one of the two items, consider what you're going to mostly clean -- In general, dirty (grease, oil, etc.) items are best cleaned in the ultrasonic tank, whereas surface finish issues (rust, paint, etc.) are best handled in the blast cabinet. For my situation, using these two tools completely changed my efficiency and enjoyment of my hobby. Hope it's the same for your work as well.
An ultrasonic cleaner and a sandblaster are not swappable for each other.
If you want to “soak” rusty parts then look into an electrolysis setup that you can make or Evapo-Rust liquid.
Well if your going to work on a lot of carburetors a sonic bath is the tool for you, if you want to paint a bunch of small parts that are flat metal with minimal nooks and crannies then the blast cabinet is the tool for you sooooo I say both in your case !
RUSTY BOLTS! Anti seize lubricant works great for re-assembly unless it goes into a coolant port, then right stuff! It’s the best gasket maker! Engine looks great!!!
Hello just wanted to say I think you are the hardest working man I’ve ever seen.But love your honesty and your channel.Hope you have a great week
Good to hear fellow you tuber Neil Koch from DDD mentioned your project in his recent video
Rule of thumb when I was taught small parts (engines) and etc. ultrasonic cleaner. Large parts (body work) and etc. sand blast
So I don't forget, I'll comment on the Ultrasonic and Sand blaster now. As been mentioned before, they are really for two different things. The sand blaster is great for paint, rust, scale (hard stuff) removal. The ultrasonic is best for soft stuff removal, dirt, tarnish, some paints, carb varnish, cleaning tiny spots you cant get into mechanically. One note for an ultrasonic, buy a heated version they work many times better than unheated.
Thanks for the Monday morning dose of "having a better attitude." Entertaining as always. thanks. Take care.
Mike, the painted engine sitting in the frame sure looks good. A painted engine always seems to run better and has fewer problems. ha ha Blessings to you as you continue on this project.
Very few people would even attempt this project. Great job Mike! 👍
Good evening Mike. It’s coming along mighty fine. Thanks for sharing.
Grit blast cabinet is the tool for what you are using. Ultrasonic cleaners are great for carburetors...
Another option are those hand held sand blasters. They hold about a quart of sand, and are meant for spot repairs in body shops. They Easley run off an 2hp compressor.
Mike what I have been told the 460 is great work motor but make sure you change oil every 3000 should last a long time
You GO! Cap’n! Progress is being made! 😉👍
💪
Really cute helper you got there!😊
For the record, Captain K didn't "negate" the section on the bottom of the frame... he "neglected" it.
🤣🤣
Cap’n don’t you hate it when your PTO gives you the shaft?
You’ve spoiled me bud. I never would have used a pole axe or a splitting maul for banging on random steel objects. I would have walked a hunnert yards to get a sledge or mechanics hammer.
Why? Well because they ain’t the right tool for the job…. My daddy used to say. I was hung up on that until… I wasn’t.
Watching you use it as your ‘go-to’ sledge, I noticed that having a flat side is an advantage. You can aim and access it so much better than a round head. And, it has that pointy sharp edge on the other side when you need to wedge or split something.
Thanx bud. You’ve saved me a lot of steps!
Glad to see you realized you needed some help on this project. Having someone pick the bolts out for you is such an important job.
I can’t believe how much she’s grown since she was last helping you on a video.
ultrasonic cleaners are basically good for cleaning / degreasing . Sandblasters are much more agressive, but will clean up material a lot better and provide an excellent key for paint
I've welded nuts on the top of my taps just heat the top of the tap up first so the two metals bond to each other both being of different hardness
You're gonna want to cut that alternator bracket down, and use a 5/8 hose barb directly into the water pump.
Definitely go with a 3G alternator from a 93 3.8 V-6 Taurus, and a 150A megafuse (HMEG holder)
Nice progress on the dump truck, Mike. Much easier dropping the engine in from the side especially when there is no other pesky sheet metal or other truck parts in the way! I use a wire wheel on a bench grinder for cleaning smaller rusty parts. It's not fancy or high tech but it works.
That's a good idea
“Safety sometimes…that’s what I sometimes say.”
Doggone it, story of my creation! lol
Hurry Captain cover that engine up!! Nice work Mike 💪🤗🇺🇸
Harbor freight has a hand held sand blaster.
With stainless hardware you should lube the threads so they have less chance of galling. If you do buy a bead blaster spend the money and get a good one not one from HF. You can also get yourself some evapo-rust and soak some rusty parts. On another note love watching your videos and enjoy my morning coffee.
She is looking almost there about brand new Bud 👍👋🇨🇦
I have both Utrasonic and sand blaster unit. The ultrasonic works great but you must find one with a continuous on button or else you must hang by and wait to constantly reset it for another go at it until the desired result is achieved. The Blaster unit is great but then you must have a dedicated area for it because even the enclosed cabinet lets off dust and debris, then you have the disposal of the debris and liquid left over to dispose of. As always you will make the choice based on cost and your need. Good luck.
I’m going to be sad when this project is completed. I really enjoy this.
The shade tree mechanicing rule of thumb for torque on stainless steel engine bolts is 1 Ugga Dugga per inch of length.
* Additional Ugga Duggas maybe needed to correct leakage issues. Your mileage may vary 😎
I don't know if you already have one or not, but I've found a needle scaler to be a handy tool on projects like this.
The way I was taught was if it's wet it's ultrasonic. If it's dry media blast. Wet would be anything that has grease, oil, fuel or any other type of fluid. Dry would be body and suspension parts. Look forward to your decision.
If I was wasp, a bee, or any other sting insect, I would look for somebody wearing a neon yellow shirt. "Biggest flower I ever did see and not a single lick of polllen".
🤣
Captain; a big container with Evaporust will already bring you a long way and limit cost. You can leave the parts in it for hours or days if needed.
Dont go for the cheap stuff! ;-)
Heading in the right direction. Keep up the good work 🙂
The sand blaster cabinet would be better for removing corrosion on smaller parts. The ultrasonic would work better for cleaning "gunk" off of parts. That's an all inclusive technical term.
I have a soda blaster. Did the frame of my pickup. I didn't have to worry about softer material erosion, like wiring harness, on the occasional overspray.
Your daughter is a cutie great to she her Helping dad
you had a helper today and that’s good that way you can pass on some acknowledgement to the next generation
great video Mike, it seems you found quite the little helper 😉,it's looking great,can't wait to see the next step 👏👏👏👏👏👌👌👌👌👌👍👍👍👍👍
Carry on Capt'!
Can't hardly wait to see what kind of project is in the works that needs a dumper.
From watching other youtubers, ultrasonic cleaners are almost exclusively used on carburetors.
Thanks for sharing.
The "please" and "thank you" for the Admiral's assistant is really wonderful!
I think cherry red would look the best for those valve covers. 👍
I have an ultrasonic cleaner and a sandblast cabinet. Both are excellent for different things. The rust removal you were doing on that part is what I would use the sandblast cabinet for. Small part degreasing or carb cleaning is what ultrasonic cleaners are great at. I am also a big fan of Evapo-rust.
Things are coming along nicely. Keep up the good work. God Bless.
Your little helper did good Mike. The 460 is looking good , Nothing but progress, good job.
You are not cheap. You are smart
Although stainless steel is low conductive, low corrosion, and low oxidation, it is also low impact rated. They snap off easily. So be careful where you use them. Definitely back them out and use anti-seize on the threads. It may be better to use hardened steel with a yellow zinc coating on hot engines. Either way, best do it now. Cheers Captain, nice build.
Hi the family truck build😊🐝🌞
Wire brushes are underrated as an abrasive.
Have you considered rust removal, using electrolysis, battery, cheap charger, water and washing soda. I did a wheel hub , and various other items all together in one container, took about 3 hrs, came out like new with a little scrubbing in fresh water, this process only removes the rust,