I wish I could help you but I know nothing about them. I do believe you can figure it out. You’re a pretty smart cookie! These old things are becoming lost arts and I appreciate your efforts to learn them and preserve the knowledge and wisdom on here for future generations!
My knowledge is quite limited on the generator, and nonexistent on the tester - but for what it's worth, I'll cast my lot in. Ignore the "Diode Trio" light when fooling with generators, because they don't have diodes - those are only in alternators. When the generator is turning, the output on the "A" terminal is controlled by the amount of current going thru the "F" terminal to ground. The current coming out thru the "F" terminal is the result of residual magnetism in the field electromagnets and the rotating armature coils cutting thru the magnetism. I think there is a process used to establish the magnetism by connecting the battery to the "F" terminal for several seconds to magnetize the core, but I can't remember the name right now ( "polarizing" comes to mind). Think the polarity must be observed for the direction the generator will turn. Anyways, for a good generator that has residual magnetism, the more current going to ground from the "F" terminal, the more the generator output increases. The regulator switches the resistance between a higher and lower value to switch the generator from low rate to high rate output. Back before my old Chevy was drivable, I would ground the "F" terminal to get it to charge the battery aggressively at idle - but it blew a fuse when I forgot to remove that jumper when I did drive it - because the generator output was high and driving excessive current thru the loads. In addition to controlling generator output, the regulator energizes a relay that connects the "A" terminal to the battery when the generator is producing power, and disconnects the "A" terminal from the battery when the generator isn't making power. Otherwise, the generator would be a load when not producing power, and drain the battery. I'm thinking the tester must somehow simulate these conditions. I wonder if the "Stator" light represents the fact that the relay in the regulator would be energized and connecting the "A" terminal to the battery. Anyways, I hope some part of this might trigger something that helps. And do be careful with alternators - I think they can create a pretty high output voltage if their field is driven fully and unregulated! Oh - one last thing - I think the tester is running the generator plenty fast.
A generator puts out dc voltage not AC. I think you need to polarize the fields. RPM is fine. I used to work at Allen Speedo and electric. I also worked at Reed & Fugate, both in Wichita and out of business nowadays. We did a lot of gens and alts back then.
I wish I could help you but I know nothing about them. I do believe you can figure it out. You’re a pretty smart cookie! These old things are becoming lost arts and I appreciate your efforts to learn them and preserve the knowledge and wisdom on here for future generations!
My knowledge is quite limited on the generator, and nonexistent on the tester - but for what it's worth, I'll cast my lot in. Ignore the "Diode Trio" light when fooling with generators, because they don't have diodes - those are only in alternators. When the generator is turning, the output on the "A" terminal is controlled by the amount of current going thru the "F" terminal to ground. The current coming out thru the "F" terminal is the result of residual magnetism in the field electromagnets and the rotating armature coils cutting thru the magnetism. I think there is a process used to establish the magnetism by connecting the battery to the "F" terminal for several seconds to magnetize the core, but I can't remember the name right now ( "polarizing" comes to mind). Think the polarity must be observed for the direction the generator will turn. Anyways, for a good generator that has residual magnetism, the more current going to ground from the "F" terminal, the more the generator output increases. The regulator switches the resistance between a higher and lower value to switch the generator from low rate to high rate output. Back before my old Chevy was drivable, I would ground the "F" terminal to get it to charge the battery aggressively at idle - but it blew a fuse when I forgot to remove that jumper when I did drive it - because the generator output was high and driving excessive current thru the loads. In addition to controlling generator output, the regulator energizes a relay that connects the "A" terminal to the battery when the generator is producing power, and disconnects the "A" terminal from the battery when the generator isn't making power. Otherwise, the generator would be a load when not producing power, and drain the battery. I'm thinking the tester must somehow simulate these conditions. I wonder if the "Stator" light represents the fact that the relay in the regulator would be energized and connecting the "A" terminal to the battery. Anyways, I hope some part of this might trigger something that helps. And do be careful with alternators - I think they can create a pretty high output voltage if their field is driven fully and unregulated! Oh - one last thing - I think the tester is running the generator plenty fast.
2 really good sources on auto electric are R & A Auto Electric and Clare Generator Inc both in Salina KS
A generator puts out dc voltage not AC. I think you need to polarize the fields. RPM is fine. I used to work at Allen Speedo and electric. I also worked at Reed & Fugate, both in Wichita and out of business nowadays. We did a lot of gens and alts back then.
Be Sure to polarize the regulator !