I appreciate all your work on this, Rich. All the little things can sure be a pain to deal with! The saw sounds great. I am looking forward to putting it to work! Thank you, sir!
Great video. When I ported my 680 I didn't do any machine work, no lathe, I opened up the lower transfers, raised the exhaust to 99 or 100, left the intake stock, and opened the ports on the piston as much as I could. Then opened the muffler like you did but cut the pipe out of it too and then drilled a port on the top corner of the flywheel side and welded in a piece of 1/2 inch conduit. I cut wood at 9000 feet elevation and that saw out cuts my 2071 Jonsered.
The 680 is probably the best value out there. I ported one for my nephew, blowdown of 16 degrees and decked the cylinder, kept the domed piston for the extra compression…and a bit of timing advance and a muffler mod and that thing is an animal. Also love the manual oiler if you decide you need a bit of extra oil, it’s a great feature. I guess you could have just added a thicker base gasket vs removing the dome off the piston 😉
Haven't had my hands on a 680 yet. I do prefer the look of the older Echos. That turned out fantastic!👍🏻 Not gonna lie, I did skip around some the last half of the video😊
Makes me wonder if a surface discharge spark plug could get you more squish, as an idea if you are going in a more squish direction and could use a little extra.
When domed pistons hit the plug electrode, a ball tip burr could be used to scoop a bowl shape dimple in the dome, carving out a little clearance for the spark plug electrode. This idea is used for valve lift clearance on 4 strokes. If the metal bowled out was matched laterally with an identical dimple on the opposite side there would be no effect on the lateral balance of the piston. The dimples on the domed surface of the piston could have an effect on the flow of gasses, probably a very small effect. And if it would even be detectable is an unknown, if there would be any swirl caused by the dimples created on a piston dome. It would be a way to get extreme squish without having the interference caused by a plug electrode. On some engines I have seen there is a dome in the head where the plug electrode is raised into the head further away from the piston. To do this as an upgrade could be possible if the thickness of the head is enough to allow machining, and installing a solid threaded bushing for the spark plug relocated for more clearance.
Hey, I really like your shirt, my sentiments exactly. After watching you work on the Echo, it looks to me like they are better made than most other current saws on the market. What say you?
@@5150powderI have an echo edger.. it’s around 18 years old.. only thing I’ve done is replace the spark plug..once. Starts on 2-3 pulls every spring. I don’t think I’d buy any other brand after how this edger has performed it’s been incredible and still has tons of compression..I wouldn’t be surprised if I get another 10 years on this thing
The bar oil off the crank is one of the reasons I like my 670 and 680 , picked up a 4910 last spring that oils off the clutch it works ok however I am not a fan
I know that the oiler on my CS501P puts out a TREMENDOUS amount of oil. I like that because it’s going to make the bar AND chain last longer. 😊 It would be nice if Stihl put out that amount of oil!😉
Best freaking t-shirt ever...
Agree, I want one.
Another great Video Richard love how you walk us threw the whole build always tons of good info talk to you later buddy 👍
I appreciate all your work on this, Rich. All the little things can sure be a pain to deal with! The saw sounds great. I am looking forward to putting it to work! Thank you, sir!
Great video. When I ported my 680 I didn't do any machine work, no lathe, I opened up the lower transfers, raised the exhaust to 99 or 100, left the intake stock, and opened the ports on the piston as much as I could. Then opened the muffler like you did but cut the pipe out of it too and then drilled a port on the top corner of the flywheel side and welded in a piece of 1/2 inch conduit. I cut wood at 9000 feet elevation and that saw out cuts my 2071 Jonsered.
I love the T-shirt
I'm a fan of yours & I'm glad to see you directing attention to an Echo l like them as well
Thank you!
The 680 is probably the best value out there.
I ported one for my nephew, blowdown of 16 degrees and decked the cylinder, kept the domed piston for the extra compression…and a bit of timing advance and a muffler mod and that thing is an animal.
Also love the manual oiler if you decide you need a bit of extra oil, it’s a great feature.
I guess you could have just added a thicker base gasket vs removing the dome off the piston 😉
👍👍This was so good I watched it twice! Fine tshirt…..
I can't believe I did that.
I can….after trying to do some editing myself…everyone on you tube that edits deserves an “attaboy”, because it’s a PITA.
Man, that t-shirt is epic !
Haven't had my hands on a 680 yet. I do prefer the look of the older Echos. That turned out fantastic!👍🏻
Not gonna lie, I did skip around some the last half of the video😊
Rich nice work!
Great work rich
Thanks!
Thanks for the tip on to much timing I've never heard that before. I love the shirt by the way. I gotta get me one of those
Nice build!
Really like that t-shirt.
Awesome stuff!
Indexing the spark plug, you took a note from the go-kart engine building book
Makes me wonder if a surface discharge spark plug could get you more squish,
as an idea if you are going in a more squish direction and could use a little extra.
Nice job Rich! Thanks for sharing. Video plays twice back to back just fyi...
When domed pistons hit the plug electrode, a ball tip burr could be used to
scoop a bowl shape dimple in the dome, carving out a little clearance for the
spark plug electrode. This idea is used for valve lift clearance on 4 strokes.
If the metal bowled out was matched laterally with an identical dimple on
the opposite side there would be no effect on the lateral balance of the
piston. The dimples on the domed surface of the piston could have an
effect on the flow of gasses, probably a very small effect. And if it would
even be detectable is an unknown, if there would be any swirl caused by
the dimples created on a piston dome. It would be a way to get extreme
squish without having the interference caused by a plug electrode. On
some engines I have seen there is a dome in the head where the plug
electrode is raised into the head further away from the piston. To do
this as an upgrade could be possible if the thickness of the head is
enough to allow machining, and installing a solid threaded bushing
for the spark plug relocated for more clearance.
Cylinder looks like a mini 395 kinda
Other than that stupid exhaust port these have
Yup. Sure does
Hey, I really like your shirt, my sentiments exactly. After watching you work on the Echo, it looks to me like they are better made than most other current saws on the market. What say you?
Echo is and always has been a top contender. True pro saws. No doubt.
@@5150powderI have an echo edger.. it’s around 18 years old.. only thing I’ve done is replace the spark plug..once. Starts on 2-3 pulls every spring. I don’t think I’d buy any other brand after how this edger has performed it’s been incredible and still has tons of compression..I wouldn’t be surprised if I get another 10 years on this thing
The bar oil off the crank is one of the reasons I like my 670 and 680 , picked up a 4910 last spring that oils off the clutch it works ok however I am not a fan
Echo is starting to intrigue me 🤔🤔
Thanks for another great video. Off topic, and sorry if you've covered this, but do you mix your Saber at 40:1?
Yes, and it still burns cleaner than anything I've tested.
@@richardflagg3084 sounds good. Thanks!
I know that the oiler on my CS501P puts out a TREMENDOUS amount of oil. I like that because it’s going to make the bar AND chain last longer. 😊 It would be nice if Stihl put out that amount of oil!😉
Good shit x2....turns out .045 be a bit much...good diagnosis tho