Thanks for the video, I need to change this on mine. The float position always was a little bit winky, completely broke today. When you're old unit was on the bench and you pulled the spool valves out, did the slide out easy & and go back in easy? was there anything like seals clips springs etc holding the spool valves in place other than the end caps?
I would just like to add that wrench is called a crow's foot. The rusty ball parts you found are for the float detent. Your blower lift cylinder should be connected to those two connections to allow the blower to float with no down pressure when that lever is fully moved forward. The downside of buying a used item is you have no idea how long will it last before the same thing happens again. But I would have done the same thing as everything Deere is very expensive. I likely would have tried to repair the assembly before I purchased another. Other than that, very helpful video.
it doesn't need to be replaced with a new part when t has just been unused for years. minnesota equipment dealer in rogers mechanic told me the trick is to take the side covers off and use cleaning penetrating oil as it's just seized, like all rusty things heating stuff up helps, but really you don't need to do that with all the rubber seals in it, there are spring tensioned parts that will explode out after you take the cap bolts off so hold a finger over the cap and slowly let each come out and have another hand or parts bucket/tray right below to catch everything that springs out and look at the order of it all as you remove it. i disconnected the steering column lever and used some heavy handed persuasion with a 2 pound and a flat head round punch to get things moving before hitting it with the penetrating oil and then the lubricating oil and reconnecting the steering column handle lever and working it back and forth each way a couple hundred times until it felt as smooth as the working one before reassembling the spring valves and securing the cap covers. you only need to remove the cover of the stuck one, usually it is the top one the deere mechanics said goes unused for years as most every one just uses the up down function for the mower deck.
I’m facing the exact situation you mentioned with frozen lower control lever. Seems that previous owner for JD455 used on a mowing deck. I now want to mount a 4 way blade to the front and utilize the hydraulics. No dust caps on the quick disconnects. Just nasty. In any case I’m just starting down the path of using PB Blaster to try to loosen things up. Question… you went at it from both sides correct. You pounded on chain link on inside of frame and also removed the cap on the outside and used penetrating oil from that side and reassembled after freeing things up. Do I have this correct?
Outstandiing video. I broke the cap and lost the two ball bearings. I ordered a replacement spool valve for $129 from eBay. I moved the cap to the existing spool valve BUT did not understand placement of the two ball bearings. Now I do. I removed the cap, removed the side plugs, removed the springs, removed the ball bearings, cleaned everything, installed the caps and inserted the ball bearings and installed the side plugs. To you: thank you. It works perfectly now.
Nice video! Turns out that I’m working on hooking up a front blade that will need both spool valves to work properly. Turns out that my 455’s lower control lever is frozen from lack of use or some other problem. I’m going the route of using PB Blaster to try to free the thing up but I fear that I may need to replace the spool valve like you had to do. Did you not have issues raising and/or lowering the mowing deck prior to mounting blower?
Don't understand what the initial problem was, but in the end you point to the gasket as being the problem. That doesn't make sense so am left with the initial problem being unidentified.
@@deernutOO The gasket failed, allowed debris to get into the ball and spring, causing it to seize. Because it seized, I couldn't operate my snow blower attachment.
I did not. It's part of the hydro drive system. Very little fluid came out when I disconnected the lines and it immediately primed when I went to use it.
I am doing same job, now, all ready ruined the replacement bought on ebay, cant remember how to reconnect chain link connecters to flat linkage and spool rods , you did not show how you connected the linkage under machine, I tried to apart the spool rods on new one and messed them up, any tips would be helpfull , thanks jim
Hi, Jim. The master links have a release plate at the top. The lock slides on and off over the pins. In my video, start watching at 1:40 mark and you’ll see and hear me talk about those little boogers.
The retainer is split on one end. I use a plier to slightly separate the split end then pull that side out over the center just a bit. The retainer can then be turned towards the second side and slid down to unlock the bottom portion of it from the center. It is important not to bend the retainer. Once you get one off, clean it and study how it works. It will help you disassemble and assemble the rest.
I appreciated the video so much, I watched all the commercials. Thank you!
Fix your own stuff!!! Nice!! I'd never take mine to the dealer either. Too expensive!
Thanks for the video, I need to change this on mine. The float position always was a little bit winky, completely broke today. When you're old unit was on the bench and you pulled the spool valves out, did the slide out easy & and go back in easy? was there anything like seals clips springs etc holding the spool valves in place other than the end caps?
I would just like to add that wrench is called a crow's foot. The rusty ball parts you found are for the float detent. Your blower lift cylinder should be connected to those two connections to allow the blower to float with no down pressure when that lever is fully moved forward. The downside of buying a used item is you have no idea how long will it last before the same thing happens again. But I would have done the same thing as everything Deere is very expensive. I likely would have tried to repair the assembly before I purchased another. Other than that, very helpful video.
it doesn't need to be replaced with a new part when t has just been unused for years. minnesota equipment dealer in rogers mechanic told me the trick is to take the side covers off and use cleaning penetrating oil as it's just seized, like all rusty things heating stuff up helps, but really you don't need to do that with all the rubber seals in it, there are spring tensioned parts that will explode out after you take the cap bolts off so hold a finger over the cap and slowly let each come out and have another hand or parts bucket/tray right below to catch everything that springs out and look at the order of it all as you remove it. i disconnected the steering column lever and used some heavy handed persuasion with a 2 pound and a flat head round punch to get things moving before hitting it with the penetrating oil and then the lubricating oil and reconnecting the steering column handle lever and working it back and forth each way a couple hundred times until it felt as smooth as the working one before reassembling the spring valves and securing the cap covers. you only need to remove the cover of the stuck one, usually it is the top one the deere mechanics said goes unused for years as most every one just uses the up down function for the mower deck.
Good advice! Thanks!
I’m facing the exact situation you mentioned with frozen lower control lever. Seems that previous owner for JD455 used on a mowing deck. I now want to mount a 4 way blade to the front and utilize the hydraulics. No dust caps on the quick disconnects. Just nasty. In any case I’m just starting down the path of using PB Blaster to try to loosen things up. Question… you went at it from both sides correct. You pounded on chain link on inside of frame and also removed the cap on the outside and used penetrating oil from that side and reassembled after freeing things up. Do I have this correct?
Outstandiing video. I broke the cap and lost the two ball bearings. I ordered a replacement spool valve for $129 from eBay. I moved the cap to the existing spool valve BUT did not understand placement of the two ball bearings. Now I do. I removed the cap, removed the side plugs, removed the springs, removed the ball bearings, cleaned everything, installed the caps and inserted the ball bearings and installed the side plugs. To you: thank you. It works perfectly now.
Nice video! Turns out that I’m working on hooking up a front blade that will need both spool valves to work properly. Turns out that my 455’s lower control lever is frozen from lack of use or some other problem. I’m going the route of using PB Blaster to try to free the thing up but I fear that I may need to replace the spool valve like you had to do. Did you not have issues raising and/or lowering the mowing deck prior to mounting blower?
thank you for the awesome video. it was/is/will be super helpful! love from maine.
Very informative. I have had the same trouble. Thanks
All the bolts and nuts are metric, not SAE wrench sizes. Surprised you haven't discovered that yet.
@@deernutOO the tools I used were snug and worked great.
Don't understand what the initial problem was, but in the end you point to the gasket as being the problem. That doesn't make sense so am left with the initial problem being unidentified.
@@deernutOO The gasket failed, allowed debris to get into the ball and spring, causing it to seize. Because it seized, I couldn't operate my snow blower attachment.
Did you have to charge the system when it was all back together?
I did not. It's part of the hydro drive system. Very little fluid came out when I disconnected the lines and it immediately primed when I went to use it.
I am doing same job, now, all ready ruined the replacement bought on ebay, cant remember how to reconnect chain link connecters to flat linkage and spool rods , you did not show how you connected the linkage under machine, I tried to apart the spool rods on new one and messed them up, any tips would be helpfull , thanks jim
Hi, Jim. The master links have a release plate at the top. The lock slides on and off over the pins. In my video, start watching at 1:40 mark and you’ll see and hear me talk about those little boogers.
The retainer is split on one end. I use a plier to slightly separate the split end then pull that side out over the center just a bit. The retainer can then be turned towards the second side and slid down to unlock the bottom portion of it from the center. It is important not to bend the retainer. Once you get one off, clean it and study how it works. It will help you disassemble and assemble the rest.
The 400 series John Deere tractors were made between 1992-2001.