Good to see a critical review! I test greases by placing a little blob on glas and let it sit there for a couple of weeks. For helicoids some white and green greases for bicycle maintenance are quite good. I use LM47 (very sparingly) on rubbing surfaces in cameras. The best greases I found are from a German company, OSIM. Since time I do not remember, I have used these greases in various grades for helicoids and anything close to optical surfaces. Never had any problem.
This is normal for thin greases, if you are used to LM47 then only the NLGI1 tin will be similar to what you usually use. The rest of these greases are working as they should, they are not all for the same purpose.
Very interesting video. The price tags on the lubricant pots are also impressive. I have been using two different lubricants for many years. For very fine mechanics, especially in connection with brass, there is a model building grease from Trix. It does not resinify and does not separate. The second lubricant is from vehicle construction. It is used for the initial assembly of engine parts. It comes from an American motorcycle brand.
I have a tube of LM47 in my drawer since more or less 5 years. It DOES separate, and it's a lot of oil. I just re-checked in now because I was surprised.
@@mikeno62 Thank you for responding to my little comment :) I don't have experience to say, just wanted to mention that it leaks oil. The one that worked for me and does not leak oil after years is NYOGEL 744 (also checked the tube now at the moment as I write this). But I repaired only a few lenses in entire life.
may be that they obtain different viscosities by mixing solid/liquid components ?
4 дня назад+1
I can confirm myself, that the Polar Bear grease separates fast. The place where I store the boxes is all oily and greasy, the oil climbed the thread and got to the bottom of the drawer. I usually use Lithium Grease, should be ok, has a good feel, but in few years I noticed that it also separates slightly.
It’s a misconception to think that grease is bad if it separates. Softer greases are more likely to separate, and in our workshop, we use a variety of lens greases. Even expensive greases from manufacturers can experience separation.
thanks for the video. yes, you are right. we just do not want the grease neither to separate nor stick and if i service a lens or have it serviced after decades and spent time and/or money in making use of the lens i don't want to get the job, which means investing workmanship, done for the next decades. lenses are taken to different temperatures and humidities and shall work flawless. even worse, if it was sticky before the grease doesn't come out easy but is in place. cleaning a lens where the grease is all over the place causes even more work to get it cleaned out. so if really the grease is designed for optical instruments and used as this taking into concideration that decades of development have past since the now sticky or oily lubricants making us scratch our heads today where formulated nowadays products could and should do better. therefore thanks for making us more aware of the fact that labels not always describe the product right. labels are talking to the customer not the product. keep up the good work and please continue broadcasting insights from you experience for all of us to learn from it. all ghe best for 2025, albrecht
That's true, I just checked my tube with LM47 and it has little separate, but it's IMO, it's still the best grease for lens work. But it's not so good when it comes to the finer helicoids because the focus will a little harder, but I will continue to look for other grease options.
Polarbear are the only place tnat sells the npc fc4 - apparently used by nikon - remake called bc13 It would be great to get your feeling qbout that grease given your experience
@@imagenatura At the moment I use LM47 with MoS2 from LIQUI MOLY, but it's not good for the finer helicoids, and now, after around 4 years I just looked into thetube and found out that there was a little oil separating. But I'm still looking for other types og useful greases.
I’ve tried these ones (Polar Bear Cameras) - unfortunately I was quite disappointed by the quality. It’s cheap (comparing to Japan Hobby tool), but in my opinion - it’s not possible to use it. It’s to sticky for a close threads. I’d say there is no good alternative to Japan Hobby tool #10 Grease
@@mikeno62it seems like there is no options, except for Japan Hobby #10. lately it became much more expensive, and it’s quite hard to buy. Delivery, VAT etc and one pcs of #10 can easily cost ~35-45 Euros:)) It’s the only usable option for old German and Japan lenses, which have very small thread in Helicoid (old Zeiss/Leica‘s especially). Even with #30 from Japan Hobby it can be tough to find good movement after re-greasing. Unfortunately it is so 😢
Surprisingly, it says this on Japan Hobby Tool's website: 'Helicoid Grease differs from normal grease in that its consistency is extremely low, and its oil separates easily. Therefore, please stir it well before use. Precision instruments do not require a lot of grease. Please be careful about grease seeping out due to overapplication.'
Good to see a critical review! I test greases by placing a little blob on glas and let it sit there for a couple of weeks. For helicoids some white and green greases for bicycle maintenance are quite good. I use LM47 (very sparingly) on rubbing surfaces in cameras. The best greases I found are from a German company, OSIM. Since time I do not remember, I have used these greases in various grades for helicoids and anything close to optical surfaces. Never had any problem.
Hi Kenneth! Any chance you would have a tutorial on how to repair a Nikon f2 DP-1 meter head? I love your videos and they are super helpful!
Interesting video, I was planning to buy some of these, but now I'll stick to my usual heli grease for the moment. Thanks for the advice
This is normal for thin greases, if you are used to LM47 then only the NLGI1 tin will be similar to what you usually use. The rest of these greases are working as they should, they are not all for the same purpose.
Very interesting video. The price tags on the lubricant pots are also impressive. I have been using two different lubricants for many years. For very fine mechanics, especially in connection with brass, there is a model building grease from Trix. It does not resinify and does not separate. The second lubricant is from vehicle construction. It is used for the initial assembly of engine parts. It comes from an American motorcycle brand.
I have a tube of LM47 in my drawer since more or less 5 years. It DOES separate, and it's a lot of oil. I just re-checked in now because I was surprised.
I just checked my tube with LM47 and it has little separate, but it's IMO, it's still the best grease for lens work.
@@mikeno62 Thank you for responding to my little comment :) I don't have experience to say, just wanted to mention that it leaks oil. The one that worked for me and does not leak oil after years is NYOGEL 744 (also checked the tube now at the moment as I write this). But I repaired only a few lenses in entire life.
may be that they obtain different viscosities by mixing solid/liquid components ?
I can confirm myself, that the Polar Bear grease separates fast. The place where I store the boxes is all oily and greasy, the oil climbed the thread and got to the bottom of the drawer. I usually use Lithium Grease, should be ok, has a good feel, but in few years I noticed that it also separates slightly.
Have you tried Krytox 205 greases or 105 oils?
What about Super-Lube 21030 and 19003?
It’s a misconception to think that grease is bad if it separates. Softer greases are more likely to separate, and in our workshop, we use a variety of lens greases. Even expensive greases from manufacturers can experience separation.
thanks for the video. yes, you are right. we just do not want the grease neither to separate nor stick and if i service a lens or have it serviced after decades and spent time and/or money in making use of the lens i don't want to get the job, which means investing workmanship, done for the next decades. lenses are taken to different temperatures and humidities and shall work flawless. even worse, if it was sticky before the grease doesn't come out easy but is in place. cleaning a lens where the grease is all over the place causes even more work to get it cleaned out. so if really the grease is designed for optical instruments and used as this taking into concideration that decades of development have past since the now sticky or oily lubricants making us scratch our heads today where formulated nowadays products could and should do better. therefore thanks for making us more aware of the fact that labels not always describe the product right. labels are talking to the customer not the product. keep up the good work and please continue broadcasting insights from you experience for all of us to learn from it. all ghe best for 2025, albrecht
That's true, I just checked my tube with LM47 and it has little separate, but it's IMO, it's still the best grease for lens work.
But it's not so good when it comes to the finer helicoids because the focus will a little harder, but I will continue to look for other grease options.
Polarbear are the only place tnat sells the npc fc4 - apparently used by nikon - remake called bc13
It would be great to get your feeling qbout that grease given your experience
So which one do you recommend?
Actually, none of them.
@@mikeno62 Yes, not Polar. What other grease is there? What grease do you use?
@@imagenatura At the moment I use LM47 with MoS2 from LIQUI MOLY, but it's not good for the finer helicoids, and now, after around 4 years I just looked into thetube and found out that there was a little oil separating.
But I'm still looking for other types og useful greases.
I’ve tried these ones (Polar Bear Cameras) - unfortunately I was quite disappointed by the quality. It’s cheap (comparing to Japan Hobby tool), but in my opinion - it’s not possible to use it. It’s to sticky for a close threads.
I’d say there is no good alternative to Japan Hobby tool #10 Grease
I am in the same meaning, so I continue looking for other greases that could be useful in lens repair.
@@mikeno62it seems like there is no options, except for Japan Hobby #10. lately it became much more expensive, and it’s quite hard to buy. Delivery, VAT etc and one pcs of #10 can easily cost ~35-45 Euros:))
It’s the only usable option for old German and Japan lenses, which have very small thread in Helicoid (old Zeiss/Leica‘s especially). Even with #30 from Japan Hobby it can be tough to find good movement after re-greasing. Unfortunately it is so 😢
And with these Bears - it’s just impossible to store in that cans. Grease will be everywhere))
Surprisingly, it says this on Japan Hobby Tool's website:
'Helicoid Grease differs from normal grease in that its consistency is
extremely low, and its oil separates easily. Therefore, please stir it
well before use.
Precision instruments do not require a lot of grease. Please be careful about grease seeping out due to overapplication.'
Shit! Your table is now a mess! Thanks for your review!