Approaching the Scene 077: Epic Fluid Head Upgrade + Better Panoramas (4K)
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- Опубликовано: 4 июл 2024
- (Links Below) Please check out my 2020 updated fluid head system and setup video: • Approaching the Scene ... It is finally here. The final piece to simplify connecting and balancing my DSLR and mirrorless cameras to my fluid head. It lightens my bag and simplifies my advanced panorama work.. I'm proud to have helped KES design their new LRP-3 adjustable nodal slider (Links below).
This past year I asked my favorite camera support company, Kirk Enterprise Solutions to create this new LRP-3 slider (links below). After a couple of back and forth discussions, Jeff Kirk and the great folks there nailed it. If, like many others, I've converted you to using a Manfrotto 500AH fluid head for still photography, you should get this new adjustable rail clamp. If you are still living with a ball head, check this video out and consider trying a fluid head it. It's much simpler, more precise and more versatile to work with than any ball head made.
Why we need the 500AH fluid head upgrade: 02:12
New panorama and fluid head adjustable slider & clamp: 07:46
Adapting your old Kirk nodal slider to get this benefit: 10:00
Using with a long lens feet: 11:33
Free Finding The No-Parallax Point video: bit.ly/NPPHH
My Advanced Panorama course: bit.ly/CoursesHH
Set up any tripod with a fluid head: • Approaching the Scene ...
Every part you need to set up a fluid head: bit.ly/304hoIt
New Adjustable Nodal Slider LRP-3: bit.ly/357P1Q8
Adapt your LRP-1 to be adjustable: bit.ly/QRC-1SQ
Kirk's custom foot for Nikon's 500 PF & 70-200 FL ED: bit.ly/3JEKggf
Newly updated links to all the gear I use: bit.ly/HudsonsLinks
Using my links helps support this video series. Thank you!
This Spring's Cuba workshop: bit.ly/Cuba2HH
February 2020 Kauai Workshop: bit.ly/HHPKauai
All my 2020 Workshops: bit.ly/hhpworkshops
My Core Photography Course: www.hudsonhenry.com/ats
Thanks to everyone for the great questions you are sending in. Keep them coming either in the comments below or by emailing me directly.
Since several viewers let me know they liked last week's 4k ATS, I'm going to start rendering in ultra hi res. Hit 4k in your settings for the best experience :-) 
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I purchased the same head and oh wow!! It pans and tilts like a dream.
Light weight specially if you pair it with a carbon fiber tripod you won’t even notice it but it is a bit bulky specially if you are used to out of the box tripods.
Main feature: it won’t ruin your gear in case you forget to tighten the tilt.
The reason why your channel is growing so fast is. That you come across as a relay nice guy, and your explanations are very good. So thank you for all the work you do.
Thanks John. I do appreciate that.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto And, no music, great diction and solid advice.
Yes, I am a subscriber
Hudson, great job in how you present yourself and your work. Your channel will continue to grow, because you do it the right way. Thanks, for all your help and attention.
Hudson, thanks also for the video. I will add the LRP-3 to my kit to use will the fluid head setup I have moved to. Take care.
Another informative video based on using the Manfrotto 500 Ah fluid head. Thank you
Thanks for the information, well presented
Excellent video very professional done . you explain and make everything easy to understand.
Thanks please keep the videos coming.
Thank you Curtis, be sure and check out www.hudsonhenry.com/tripods for even later updates.
Thank you for this great information/demonstration. I've become a fluid head convert!
Finally found the set up ive been thinking about
Very informative video, just for giggles, I think this idea of fluid gimble style is also applied to car mounted machine guns. hahah
This LRP3 is my dream... having purchased many nodal rails, every time, i've asked, "why does no one simply make a long rail with an adjustable plate?" To me, this was crazy.
i can't believe someone has now created it!!!! yea!
my money's going out the door now that ive seen this video.
oh, by the way, the lighting set up for this presentation is SO impressive. I love the richness of the image, and soft light. Absolute perfection.
thanks
Awwwww thanks so much. I asked Kirk to make it for me and promised to spread the word if they did. Using my link is helpful to me if you don't mind. :) www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks
The lighting is a single warm gelled dracast 500 panel. That's also in my links. :)
drats... its out of stock at Kirk.. i'll send myself the reminder to come back through your link provided after 5/29 (that's when it shows it will be back in stock.)
thanks!
@@HudsonHenryPhoto - just ordered an Aputure 300X and waiting on its arrival. That might do the trick :)
thanks for the details!
You’ve convinced me. I ordered a Manfrotto fluid head yesterday.
All I can say is that all my frustrations, ball head that is, are in the past. I just finished a four hour self project using the fluid head with new bridge and wow! My make shift table top flower photo shoot was a success. If not the images, at least the smooth experience in handling camera with long lenses and extension tubes. I’m still using my gimbal head for birding and will be trying this setup soon and see how I do for that type of photography. Thanks for turning me in that direction!
Love that feedback!
Lovely video. Great to hear that Kirk Enterprise made this new adjustable rail based on your input.
The RRS 192 PPP, which has been available for quite some time, seems almost identical.
The 192 is a much thicker bulkier rail with a smaller less sturdy clamp. One added benefit of the Kirk version is that it's made by really nice people I feel good supporting who have great customer service. ;-) RRS gear is high quality I won't debate that. I prefer to support Kirk whenever I can though.
Thank you for this video. Just what I was looking for
I use the Kirk bridge adapter on my 502AH and it's awesome. I love how I can used it with my big wildlife glass and then switch the clamp orientation and then use it for landscapes and general photography as well and of course video!. I like that they have a nodal system that will integrate with it as well ... with this setup the fluid head can truly be a jack of all trades. I was researching and thought I was going to have to get a second bowl leveling plate to mount one of the gimbal setups on but this will be way more cost effective. good stuff!
JUST found your channel...AWESOME..new sub and THANK YOU!
Great info. Just converted to a fluid head. I really like the Kurt quality.
My LRP-3 is arriving today. Also, the QD-DLOOP to use QD connection with a BlackRapid strap, and the QRC-1QD so I can use QD connection with my plates that don't have a QD socket. Excited!
Thanks for your great videos! You've definitely helped me quickly hone my kit and see how some of this kit performs in real world scenarios. Really appreciate the effort you put into making these videos.
After using the 502AH for a few years now, with the Kirk adapter plate, I'm starting to run into some edge cases that are becoming more common. When using a tripod, I'm almost always doing either wildlife photos and/or video. While the 502AH is a nice compromise for both, it's not a great fluid head for heavier kit. For landscape work and slower subjects, it's awesome and so much faster for adjusting pitch and yaw and the slight give in the fluid head make the adjustments ... fluid.
The challenge I keep coming across is that the fluid head's spring can't balance my kit. I think my particular uses are going to send me to a gimbal for wildlife and a beefier fluid head for video.
Thanks for those kind words man! It can make sense to have a heavier duty solution if you're already schlepping a huge lens like the 600 TC not too far from the car. My favorite fluid head is the Sachtler FSB-6. bhpho.to/46eK6GY I carried that on Denali up to 14k camp 10 years ago and I used to tote it everywhere with me, but then I discovered the 500AH. It's really the perfect compromise head that does it all, but carries nicely on bigger adventures. It beats a ballhead plus light gimbal (like the wimberly sidekick I used to carry) to death. For really dedicated big lens video and action, the Sachtler could do it all for you. It's infinitely adjustable from no fluid drag to deep fluid drag, same goes for the return spring. The LED lit leveling bubble in the base is icing on the cake. The only downside is price and weight. I still use mine a lot in the studio and on some car based shoots. I really never pull my dedicated gimbal out. It's just so limited in general.
Hi Hudson, well I finally have taken the plunge and purchased a Kirk bridge for my Manfrotto fluid head. The amount of times I looked at the Kirk web site and thought twice about it, as I live in Australia and pay AUS and the delivery is high. anyway I have gone for it, $244.00 delivered. Looking forward to the plate. Thanks again for all your info and instruction. Luv your work, cheers. Mark.
Got my Benro S4 kit and OMG Fluid heads rock. Going to get the Sirui va-5 and use that on my trekking pole and PlatyPod
Love seeing your channel grow, Hudson. My favorite photography channel now..well you and Adam Gibbs :)
I'd like to see more of you out on location, even if its nothing in particular ..Also i just sold my D850 and a bunch of f lenses after watching your videos, thanks for the help with the switch to a Z7 for my landscape work. ..Also i bought the 20 1.8 for that epic sunstar! Thanks from Scotland!
That makes my night! Thank you and noted. My grandma was a Campbell from the Isle of Skye. I'd sure love to get over there. :)
Hudson Henry Photography You should come over..I do workshops in Glencoe where I live and freelance for a company called Skye Photo Academy. I could show you around Scotland :) I’m on Facebook/instagram- Alex Trowski Photography :)
@@AlexT1212 I'll keep you in mind my friend. It likely will be a couple years, but I'd love to bring the kiddos when they are a little bigger. :-) Thanks so much for that offer!
Thanks for doing this. I just subscribed!
I've been looking for a way to have vertical capability on a video tripod head for so long. Thanks a lot, man! Really helpful.
So glad to help!
Thank you for another excellent & informative video. What is the disadvantage on the performance of the system if we retain the original Manfrotto top plate & not to replace it with the Kirk quick release Bridge System
? The Manfrotto top plate seems to be longer and will give a better grip on the LRP-3 won't it ?
Hopefully now the UK has left Europe we will soon be able to buy gear from the US without high import duties! The future is bright. I'm seriously thinking about a fluid head after seeing many of your excellent videos. PS not surprised your channel is growing, you are a class act. Cheers.
Thanks for the kind words. I think you'll love the fluid head!
Hi Hudson, great video with excellent info! I recently bought the GH-PRO II geared head by Sunwayphoto. I was using an RRS BH55 before. The GH-PRO II is fantastic; I love the way x and y movements are independent from each other. The GH-PRO II has only one flaw: it is not sturdy enough for a D850 and a 24-70 f2.8 lens. So I'm looking at other options. I don't want to go back to a ballhead though. I saw your video on the Manfrotto fluid head. Do you know if Kirk Enterprises ships products to Europe? I can't find them locally. And is the Manfrotto fluid head still the head you would suggest?
I think this shows the value of a fluid head for stills really well. What I'm thinking is that the manfrotto head you show is rather large for a smaller set-up such as a Fuji mirrorless system. Any suggestions please for a smaller fluid head to couple with a smaller tripod?
Thank you, Hudson. I quickly ordered the QRC-1SQ adapter clamp before supplies diminished to augment my 500AH replacement bridge and LRP-2 rail w/ clamps. The adapter appears to provide a bit more sliding distance, so I will hold off on the LRP-3 rail for now.
I have a concern though. All of these great Kirk enhancements are predicated around owing Manfrotto's 500AH fluid head, which I do of course have. My concern is the continued availability of Manfrotto's fluid head, in its current configuration, should my head need replacement. Since the Manfrotto head is not horribly expensive, I'm considering ordering one and throwing it in the closet...just in case. Your thoughts please.
Great Kirk Enterprise works with you and ideas! I have been using the 500AH for several years after watching your course on ON1. It is the greatest upgrade from a ball head (converted my L190) With a leveling center it is so fast to set up, doing Milky Way panoramas (early season rainbow). Now with the LRP-3 multiple layers. I also went with the Manfrotto Befree Live with mvh400ah head (it held my 200-600) but could you put in a good word for a Bridge System for it. I am a run and capture at many different spots on a driftwood beach and the light weight is better during an all nighter (May/June).
Do I understand correctly that this system is also good for multilevel panoramic’s? With panoramic kits, they also have left right adjustments to center the lens before doing front to back no parallax point. So is left right not necessary? Do you still find a need for a separate multilevel pano Kit?
Hey Hudson, Love the videos! I am now a fluid head convert but have a quick question. I bought the Robus RC-5570 and the HAoge TBA 75 but it does not seem to drop into the tripod as I was expecting. It does not lock in with the quick connecter so I have to make sure I tighten the clamp enough . AM I doing something wrong? Do you have a video that shows this? Thanks!!
Just finished an itemized list for fluid Hd. setup from your Equipt. List. Got delayed in pulling the trigger; so this is perfect timing to do the substitute and charge on. Tks for the "list" & recommendations w/ of course explanations, reasons and viable alternatives. What more can you ask for other than joining you in the field. TKS
Neat stuff, I very much like the equipment from Hejnar Photo Corp as well. They make conversion plates and rails too, very good stuff.
I mean no disrespect to Hejnar, but you should check this setup out and compare the quality. Kirk is designing and milling some really really top notch stuff right here in the US. It's so light, bombproof, well designed and precision made.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thank you for the reply! They are both making some great stuff. I'll check the Kirk store to see how the two compare next time I need a specialized part.
I'm in Portland Oregon now. Can I steal your tripod setup for the day LOL
I apologize if this question is a bit off topic, but you've pretty much convinced me to get a fluid head, but not to replace my ballhead. I do too much low angle macro work for that. However, I do think a fluid head might be a good replacement for my Wimberley WH-200 gimbal head. Do you have any experience with the larger Manfrotto 502AH head? It's rated for more weight than the 500AH. I'd be using it mostly with an older 600mm f4, that weighs 13 pounds all by itself, plus the weight of my D500 and battery grip. What I'm hoping to gain with the video head is smoother pans, (especially slow pans), than I can get with the Wimberley, both for videos and pan blurs when shooting stills. Is that a reasonable expectation?
Yeah, I think so. I'm not a fan of the 502AH. It feels big, bulky and clunky to me. I have a Sachtler FSB-6 for heavier work. I've used the 500AH with big rigs and it may be a bit light duty for what you specifically want. You might be surprised how quickly it would replace your ball head in 90% of your other work though. I prefer to carry an ultralight platypod for getting low with the 500AH. I have an acratech ball head still, but I don't use it unless I have to.
For those of us that can't fork out for Kirk prices, is there an alternative recommendation for the new piece you talk about in this video?
Hudson, as always, great and current info. I'm done with the ballhead flop. From your lists I think that I need 3 pieces to convert my center column tripod to a fluid head: Kirk leveling base and LRP-3 slider, and Manfrotto fluid head. Is this right?
Hey Al! You'll need to convert the top of the head to an Arca Clamp to put that LRP-3 into. I like the Kirk replacement bridge for that. :-) So four parts really... Leveling base, head, bridge replacement (or large clamp to put on the stock bridge's sliding plate) and the LRP-3 nodal rail.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Got it. Thanks for the clarification.
I watched your original video about switching to the fluid head from Manfrotto. It made sense to me and I switched, happy that I did. I saw the episode about the Kirk bridge for the Manfrotto, seemed like a good idea but I never researched it fully. This episode got me thinking again, since it cuts down on what I currently have to do to switch between a camera body mount and a lens mount. I have the version of Manfrotto that works with the bridge. My problem is that I greatly prefer a lever quick release, I have a great version by RRS. The bridge only accepts the Kirk quick release that has a knob, relying on the square tenon to fit into the rectangular mortise of the bridge. It seems my only option is to modify my RRS quick release, if I can, not likely. And the ultra adjustable LPR-3 looks great except for the knob. All great ideas, just wish it would adapt to me. I would buy it immediately if it would. Thanks for sharing, you did a great job working with Kirk to come up with tools that can make a difference.
You'd find Kirk's knobs are really sweet if you try them. They're long travel so a short turn either way is all it takes. I've used the levers too and yes they're nice. If only the company was too... Kirk's knobs are so well designed, I don't miss the levers and the people there are lovely to boot. :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks. A consideration to think about.
Hi Hudson,
I’m in a process of picking some tripod heads and the fluid head idea for everything seems great.
Sorry for my ignorance, but why not just put a panning arca clamp on the stock Manfrotto 500AH plate (I think RRS have them, also Leofoto, though the former ones are very light weight) for the time a collarless lens is used and you have to connect using an L-bracket on the camera. For longer lenses, just put a Manfrotto plate.
I’m I missing something there?
I did that for awhile. I like the Kirk bridge so much better. It lightens the whole head and puts the center of rotation right under that clamp. With a nodal rail you can get balanced perfectly like you would with a manfrotto plate and be ready for panos, but you don't have the extra wieght of a plate, plus a panning clamp. No need for all that since the head pans level from beneath. Trust me. You can sell that heavy RRS panning clamp for more than the Kirk bridge and work much more streamlined without it. :-)
Great video as usual. Just wondering how this would work with your multi row pano set up would I need 2 of these nodal slides
For that, thanks in anticipation!
It's perfect with it. You just ditch the lower panning clamp and use the fluid head in its place. The new LRP-3 becomes the upper nodal slider. :)
Hudson Henry Photography
I got myself a fluid head after watching an older video of yours, because I was fascinated with the workflow compared to the 3-way head I had back then. I was not disappointed, it is much better to use! But multi-row panoramas are a huge pita, at least if you want some foreground on too. The issue is: once you tilt, you're back to square 1 due to the quite high distance to the axis of rotation...
I was wondering if a true gimbal head would be a better always-on sollution, especialy since there are fluid models now aswell and nodal slides to overcome the long-lense-limitation. But tbh their price is a killer argument, compared to a video head, just for that one feature.
Have you tried out such a combination? Would love to get some feedback!
In watching your videos I see the advantage switching from a ball head to a fluid head. Question is 500AH or 502AH ? I love the Kirk bridge upgrade and not sure if it would fit on both models. Thank you for all the work you put into these videos.
500, 500, 500. Don't, don't, don't get the 502. It's big and awkward. the 500 is just the right size and specs. Those fluid head load ratings are all about doing super smooth motion pans and tilts for video with the specified weights. It will lock and track with my 500mm on a D5 no problem. The 500 is all you need.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thank you, Have a great holiday
I’ve gone through all your videos on this setup and I’m stuck between your current head recommendation and the manfrotto 608 since i’m planning on getting a phase one in the future and with the lens it will be a approximately 9-10 pounds with the lens.
Hey Charles, The recommended weight settings for fluid heads are really for smooth pan and tilt motions when filming, not locking off a still shot. I think you can double or triple the weight rating for stills work. If you want a bigger rig go Sachtler FSB8ii. For still work I have no problem with the 500 AH using a D5 with a 400 2.8. It locks it down solidly. It will handle a Phase just fine. I don't like the bigger manfrottos. They're bulky and clumsy to my mind. The design is better suited to the little 500AH which hits a sweet spot for still and light hybrid shooters.
Your content is fantastic Henry and the production is consistently excellent and informative. Since getting the Z6 a few months back I am growing my interested in video which will be a useful addition to photography for my clients. I have watched a few of your videos on the fluid head (and many others) so have a good feel for your work and value your opinion. I have both Manfrotto & Benro tripods / heads (ball & geared). I saw you comment on the Benro S6 head in another video. Any suggestions for the Benro A2573F Video Tripod Kit with S6 Head or buy the Manfrotto MVH502AH Pro Video Head for one of my exiting tripods? I like that the Benro S6 kit because it has a levelling system integrated but am keen to work with the best head. I'd value your thoughts if you can share them please
I'd go 500AH. It holds much more than it's rated and it's so much better suited to a camera the Z's size. If you get a huge video kit built then you might want a bigger fluid head with drag adjustments and return adjustments. I have a Sachtler FSB-6 for that kind of work here in the studio. When I go in the field though, the 500AH is all I ever take. I'm not a big fan of the 502 and I think the Benro is a bit plasticy and ligher built. :-( There's a good reason Kirk built the top replacement system around the 500. It's so sweet. I have a buddy/studio mate who's an emmy award winning documentary film maker. He helps with my more highly produced videos. He has a big Cartoni head, but 95% of the time, he uses a 500AH with his Panasonic GH5 and 9 inch Atomos screen.
Oh, first name is Hudson, but nbd. :-)
Milimeters? This is America, Son. ;)
👍👍
Thanks for this video. what lighting are you using behind the scene. could you please share?
Super simple. Cloudy day on my porch with a single dracast 500 daylight balanced led panel light on a high stand. I use a bunch of those in my studio mounted on the ceiling with a keno main light.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto thanks
Do they make anything for the BeFree Fluid Head?
You should really try the 500AH of you can instead. It's bigger yes, but so much more stable and better to work with.
Can the Kirk LRP-3 Multipurpose Rail (7.5") also be used as a Macro Focus rail? And how does it compare to Novoflex Castel-XQ II Macro Focusing Rack.
Or,,, I'm thinking of getting the KIRK Focusing Rail FR-3 for both Panos and macros. Not sure is the front knob will be in my shot though. This is for Virtual Tours and using an 8mm fisheye lens on the Fujifilm APS sensor.
If you need the fine tune of a geared rail, then either of those will be better than the LRP-3. The LRP-3 will work though. Just loosen the upper or lower clamp enough to move with slight resistance and the adjustability is limitless.
Hudson...great addition to the fluid head movement but I have a question about the 500 5.6 PF, which you apparently really like. I can relate as I have a old retrofitted 600 f/4 that weights a ton and it seems to get mostly left behind. Looking around on B&H yielded some good reviews but one quite critical of it's VR at certain speeds...to quote "The bad news is, it appears to suffer from the same VR problem that many people experienced with the 300PF. At certain shutter speeds, the VR is terrible. Shooting at 1/80, 1/100, and 1/125 is not fun." The author was comparing it to his older 200-500. Have you experienced any VR issues at these speeds? Perhaps he was just expecting too much from the VR at these speeds and at 500mm...considering you'd likely want 1/500 min without VR.
Hmmm If I'm handholding the lens I"m generally shooting something moving fast, like birds or sports. I usually set my shutter quite a bit faster than that just to freeze such action. I just filtered to all my shots with that lens last year and looked at anything under 1/200th. I shot some swans in Patagonia handheld in low light and shot a whole sequence at 1/125. I'd say 80% are sharp and given the rocky slope, cold and wind, I'd put the 20% more on my using poor form than the VR working badly. I have a couple of sharp 1/60th shots of buffalo in Yellowstone, but I might have been on the tripod. It was a foggy early morning and I think I probably drug my legs out for that one. I have scads of sharp handheld 200th shots. So to answer you. i haven't' noticed it yet. I haven't noticed a problem with my 300PF either to honest though, and I"ve had that longer. :-)
Thanks Hudson...as we know there's a lot to getting sharp images beyond VR. Without it we were normally very careful and might get a bit sloppy with long VR lenses thinking technology can fix poor form. I think I'll get on B&H's back order list as my old 600 f/4 is almost impossible to use with anything moving leaving me using an 80-400.
@@jimlassoie195 And there you hit the nail on the head with the 300/500 PF. The mobility and flexibility that comes with the small size and weight. It's so crazy to have that kind of focal reach handheld and full frame. :-)
Can Rail be used for Focus Stacking. I got the same rail, but any movement on rail to change focus, also changes the composition of the image and ruin the very concept of focus stacking.
Focus stacking is generally done in camera these days. You don't move the camera, you use differential focus to capture the scene focused at different distances. Nikon has long automated this, Sony more recently. Some lenses are better than others at maintaining the composition while changing focus. Others are not as good and focus breathe. Any time you move the camera of course it changes the compositon. Macro focusing rails are for perfecting focus in a single shot. Because of the compositional changes discussed above, they are generally useless for focus stacking.
Hudson, did I miss the link for the Kirk Mounting Bridge for the 500AH ?
Mike Deissler My thought as well!
@@leswentworth2752 I did a video on that a bit ago, but it's all on my links page. www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks. :-)
I did a video on that a bit ago, but it's all on my links page. www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks. :-)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks Hudson, can't wait fro it to get here !
Fantastic. I think that I order one for my LRp 1.
I doin't understand very well the tecnique with this rail:with my exsisting set up I move the slider to the nodal point, with the new rail I must set the slider at one fixed point and then find the new nodal point with teh rail for the camera\lens setup?
Yes, but it allows you to use both shorter and longer lenses. You just adjust the clamp to an easy to find centimeter position on the rail that puts you lens tip out beyond the end of the rail. Note the clamp position for that lens and calibrate like you normally would. :)
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thank you
Just look at your lens from the side & note where it is over the center of the tripod. When you put the new slide rail on, align the same spot on the lens over the center of the tripod. You might need to fine tune but, it should put you very close.
Why are you getting rid of your D850? It has a better sensor than the Z7.
The Z7 has exactly the same sensor as the D850 but with a bit better color science and image correction applied in the processing. To be honest, after a year with the Z6 and Z7, the D850 feels antiquated. I miss the ability to zoom to 100% to check focus in the amazing viewfinder with a finger flick. Low-lit scenes get dark in the 850s viewfinder but stay bright in the Z camera's, the DSLR live view is clunky and slow and I have to get out reading glasses to check focus on it. I miss reviewing images and menu settings in the mirrorless viewfinder in bright light. The list goes on and on and on.
The D850 just feels old and clunky to me now. I tried many mirrorless from Sony and Fuji over the years and always went straight back to my beloved DSLRs, but the Z6 was the first one I fell in love with. The negative press is likely sponsored by competitors. I don't know any photographer that has a Z who doesn't LOVE it. And a lot of us have decades of SLR and DSLR use before the Z. After switching from Nikon film bodies, I owned the D70, 200, 300, 700, 610, 700, 750, 800, 810 and now still have the 500 and 850. The Z cameras are the future for a good reason. My D850 had almost no use at all since I got the Z7 for my Cuba trip last spring. My hand always went for that amazing digital viewfinder. I'll keep the D500 for sports and wildlife only until Nikon gets that level of subject tracking in an APSC mirrorless with a deep buffer. It will come and I'll be done with mirrors.
@@HudsonHenryPhoto Thanks for the thorough reply. I shoot with the D810 and I love the camera for its ergonomics. I almost prefer larger bodies for my type of photography (street, city scape, wild life), but I am also intrigued by the Z6 as a secondary video camera. I still feel I would use the D810 more. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
@@TaipeiGeek Ha, that's what I thought when I preordered mine through NPS about 15 months ago. I said a lot of the same words about ergonomics and EVFs not being as good as optical, etc. I had owned several Sony a7 series, Fuji and Lumix cameras and always wound up shooting my Nikon DSLRs instead. If you'd told me then that all I'd take to Cuba the next spring was a Z7, Z6, and 2 FTZ adapters, I'd had told you you were high. I expected to shoot it for a week, do a fast review of why I preferred my D850 and D500 and then send it back. It went down quite differently... :-)
Why choose the 500 over the 502
Because the 502 is MUCH larger and awkward and unnecessary unless you are running a much bigger film setup with monitors and focus pullers and such. The weight bearing numbers on these heads are for super smooth movements in video pan and tilts. The 500 locks down a D5 with a 500 PF just fine. No need for more. If you need a bigger head for video cage rigs, then I'd point you to Sachtler or Cartoni. I'm just not a fan of the 502.
The only problem with this setup for panoramas is the no-par point is only solved horizontally. This makes multi-row pano's not possible. The rotation point both horizontally and vertically needs to be at the no-par point on the lens which is not possible with this fluid head. That's why you see fancy gimbals like the RRS PG-01(02).
To quickly rebut. Thats so easy to overcome with the horizontal rail and vertical rail with mounted vertical panning clamp in my bag. The fluid head acts a ludicrously stable panning clamp from below and I can deploy the multi-row kit in about 30 seconds. It's an extra pound in the bag and not bulky. It's listed under advanced pano gear in my links : www.hudsonhenry.com/atslinks Dead simple. :)
I did a video going over all that about 2 months ago: ruclips.net/video/UCtGGzMKcrQ/видео.html
A lot of talk...no demo..