Do you have a video for how you completed the flat tow setup (the wiring and plug placement for the front of the Bronco)? Thanks, appreciate the videos!
Thanks. I have the modular front bumper so I’ll have to modify it a bit. What size anti chaffing did you use for the wiring, everything looks neat and professional and I’d like to replicate it. Also, you mention using the 4 pin up front but possibly going to a 7 pin in the future, what would be the reason to for flat towing? Thanks again!
@@rsmag6 I believe this is 3/8" antichaffe. The reason I'd go to a 7 pin would be in case I wanted to wire in an auxiliary battery, refrigerator or something similar. The Bronco is fine with a 4 pin. I have seen a lot of stuff out there with the modular bumper mounts. I don't know about the wiring, but I'm sure it could be mounted in a nice place or even the bumpers slotted for the 4 pin to go through and mounted flush.
Good stuff brother! Appreciate you taking the time to make the video. Keeping up the content. We are looking forward to getting this done for our 21 BB 4 door.
The curt hitch is designed so you do not have to remove the bumper. JMO. if you are putting in a 7 pin then the bumper removal would make is easier. Great video!!!
Yes, you are correct. This hitch would have been pretty easy to install with the bumper on and I don't see any real issues doing it that way if you mount the 7 pin on the bottom. I've seen other hitches that extend a little farther so the 7 pin can be installed level with the hitch, but I didn't like how the departure angle would change. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment!
Good work. I may suggest instead of cutting the zip ties leaving a razor's edge, twist them off with a pair of side cutters. They also make a zip tie gun which leave a smooth surface. Nothing is more frustrating as a electrician when the zip ties have been cut and now im all cut up.
Whats up @Road and Reel ! Love the content you are putting out. Question, the blue wire and black power wire. Do you need those for the flat towing? Also @Road and Reel the red fuse connector can you leave links to the materials you used: fuse connector, black power wire, curt wire harness trailer tow (rear), and curt wire harness flat tow (front). Thanks for the content!!
Thanks, I appreciate it! The black and blue wire were ran for towing a trailer behind the Bronco. The flat tow harness just plugs into the factory wiring between the tail lights in the back and only require a screw for the white ground. I have all of the links in the description and this is what I used for the fused connection: amzn.to/3XFeisu I can only find them sold in multiples, but you can get them individually at any parts store. Check out those other links in the description and feel free to reach out if you have any more questions! Have a good one!
Thanks! That's just where the power lug is and it makes it look a lot cleaner. If you open the fuse panel, you'll see that it's just a lug that comes straight off the battery so it's not really in the fuse box.
The black wire is the power wire for the module and is a part of the kit, but the blue wire I added. It's for the trailer brakes and will go to the brake controller when I install that. It's 12ga.
So I installed the tow hitch on a 22 WIldtrak. Took the bumper off just fine, but the connectors to the backup parking sensors... it seemed like i needed to " squeeze " them to disconnect, ( by hand ) which worked. Now they dont want to reconnect properly and its throwing error codes for the parking sensors. When you disconnected yours, it seemed like a audible click was heard. Any idea how I can get those errors to stop ? The sensors feel somewhat together, but a bit sloshy.
These clicked right back together. Is there any debris or anything interfering with the plug? Everything clicked, like you said, with an audible clicking sound when we put it back together.
I connected it to the positive terminal, but it's under the fuse box lid and just looks a little cleaner in my opinion. You could do the same thing on the battery, but the wiring would be a little more exposed.
@@RoadandReel thanks! It definitely does look cleaner, this is the first vehicle I've had with more than one option for connecting to the positive so it's a bit new to me
I'm actually doing that first thing in the morning. It'll go to the blue wire on the back of the brake controller. We're installing a Redarc brake controller. Video should be out in about a week.
Do you have a video for how you completed the flat tow setup (the wiring and plug placement for the front of the Bronco)? Thanks, appreciate the videos!
I sure do! ruclips.net/video/vkUyVHiKTRs/видео.html
Thanks for watching!
Thanks. I have the modular front bumper so I’ll have to modify it a bit. What size anti chaffing did you use for the wiring, everything looks neat and professional and I’d like to replicate it. Also, you mention using the 4 pin up front but possibly going to a 7 pin in the future, what would be the reason to for flat towing? Thanks again!
@@rsmag6 I believe this is 3/8" antichaffe. The reason I'd go to a 7 pin would be in case I wanted to wire in an auxiliary battery, refrigerator or something similar. The Bronco is fine with a 4 pin. I have seen a lot of stuff out there with the modular bumper mounts. I don't know about the wiring, but I'm sure it could be mounted in a nice place or even the bumpers slotted for the 4 pin to go through and mounted flush.
Thanks!
Awesome instruction. You were clear, concise and did everything the proper way.
Thank you, I appreciate it!
Good stuff brother! Appreciate you taking the time to make the video. Keeping up the content. We are looking forward to getting this done for our 21 BB 4 door.
The curt hitch is designed so you do not have to remove the bumper. JMO. if you are putting in a 7 pin then the bumper removal would make is easier. Great video!!!
Yes, you are correct. This hitch would have been pretty easy to install with the bumper on and I don't see any real issues doing it that way if you mount the 7 pin on the bottom. I've seen other hitches that extend a little farther so the 7 pin can be installed level with the hitch, but I didn't like how the departure angle would change. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment!
Good work. I may suggest instead of cutting the zip ties leaving a razor's edge, twist them off with a pair of side cutters. They also make a zip tie gun which leave a smooth surface. Nothing is more frustrating as a electrician when the zip ties have been cut and now im all cut up.
That's great advice, thanks! I've been cut by a few and it's not fun. I'll have to check out one of those guns.
@@RoadandReel the one I have the Panduit gts-e. A little pricy, but well worth it. You can control the tension with it
@@linuxrules95 I'll check it out! Does it fit in tight spaces pretty well?
Whats up @Road and Reel ! Love the content you are putting out. Question, the blue wire and black power wire. Do you need those for the flat towing? Also @Road and Reel the red fuse connector can you leave links to the materials you used: fuse connector, black power wire, curt wire harness trailer tow (rear), and curt wire harness flat tow (front). Thanks for the content!!
Thanks, I appreciate it! The black and blue wire were ran for towing a trailer behind the Bronco. The flat tow harness just plugs into the factory wiring between the tail lights in the back and only require a screw for the white ground. I have all of the links in the description and this is what I used for the fused connection: amzn.to/3XFeisu
I can only find them sold in multiples, but you can get them individually at any parts store. Check out those other links in the description and feel free to reach out if you have any more questions! Have a good one!
Is this harness specifically for the non LED taillights? If so what is the part number?
This one was. I have all the links in the description, but I haven't checked them in a while. Let me know if you still need me to look something up.
For the curt power wire why was it attached to the fuse box instead of the battery terminal. By the way great video.
Thanks! That's just where the power lug is and it makes it look a lot cleaner. If you open the fuse panel, you'll see that it's just a lug that comes straight off the battery so it's not really in the fuse box.
@@RoadandReel that’s what I thought. Appreciate the fast reply and great content
What is the black and blue wiring? I don't see them on the parts list? Than you for your help.
The black wire is the power wire for the module and is a part of the kit, but the blue wire I added. It's for the trailer brakes and will go to the brake controller when I install that. It's 12ga.
So I installed the tow hitch on a 22 WIldtrak. Took the bumper off just fine, but the connectors to the backup parking sensors... it seemed like i needed to " squeeze " them to disconnect, ( by hand ) which worked. Now they dont want to reconnect properly and its throwing error codes for the parking sensors. When you disconnected yours, it seemed like a audible click was heard. Any idea how I can get those errors to stop ? The sensors feel somewhat together, but a bit sloshy.
These clicked right back together. Is there any debris or anything interfering with the plug? Everything clicked, like you said, with an audible clicking sound when we put it back together.
Why did you connect it at the fuse box instead of the battery? I've seen it both ways so now I'm curious
I connected it to the positive terminal, but it's under the fuse box lid and just looks a little cleaner in my opinion. You could do the same thing on the battery, but the wiring would be a little more exposed.
@@RoadandReel thanks! It definitely does look cleaner, this is the first vehicle I've had with more than one option for connecting to the positive so it's a bit new to me
Did you ever hook up the blue wire and where did you hook it up to?
I'm actually doing that first thing in the morning. It'll go to the blue wire on the back of the brake controller. We're installing a Redarc brake controller. Video should be out in about a week.