Thanks you so much for the very helpful information. My husband is removing the engine from our 1999 Chevy Blazer and he was grateful for the information. It was so kind of you to put it on the internet. Have a pleasant week. Cynthia
Sir I appreciate you taking the time to create the video. I have a 96 s10 that lost oil pressure and starting ticking/knocking after driving at a speed of 90 mph for about 7 or 8 minutes and am now going to remove the engine. Thanks so much for the info on the converter bolts. I also so someone posted about the oil passages not being adequate for proper oil flow. SO now seeing that I know what is wrong with mine. Thank you.
Thanks man I am in the middle of pulling my 4.3 and ran into the issue with the same small things hangin me up. Your video showed me exactly what was holdin me up.
Removing that front grill assembly is not much work, easier then you think. And makes putting that motor back in so much easier. Makes it easier to line it up and marry it to the transmission.
If you lift the motor up and pull it forward you can get it all the bolts in the back, I did it the same way as you would any old rear wheel drive Chevy , I didn't have to remove anything else off of the engine . After working on blazers since the very first model there has been a lot of changes they made it very difficult on these 2000 models
Just for the record for a motor bearing swap it is a lot easier to remove the front axle to get the pan off then pulling the motor I've done it both ways
Chris Davison do you know if the front wheels and ball joints need to be undone for the bell housing to be separated from the motor as well? video didn't show the work before pulling it (helping a buddy later today, and wanna be as prepared as possible). thanks!
Hey more simple approach might be to take off the transfer case pull engine and trans whole, 1 that comes up and forward you will be able to get the ground harness bowl and the fuel line bolts of a lot easier but you will have to remove the distributor cap
my 2001 s10 had a hole in the firewall by the brake pedal to get to one of the top trans bolts lmfao would of been good to know before it took me 2 hours to get that bolt off
i have a 1998 S10 pick up same problem one bolt on the drivers side not sure if there is a hole in firewall 4wheel drive dont WANT TO PULLOUT THE TRANS
Hey this video was extremely helpful. I'm doing a 350 swap in an s10 4x4 and this will help a lot with getting the transmission which is hangin me up big time
Thanks for the info. My friend picked one up cheap and even though it's running fine it has 250k miles on it and he wanted me to pull it and go through it.
Yours is one of the few videos i've found on Vortec V6 engine removal. I just wish you had shown us from the very beginning. Things like Bellhousing to Tranny bolts,How many ? Where ? Motor mounts, Bolts,how many ? Where ?
Thanks Chevy for a making a 4.3 shit motor that spins bearings ! Had I known of this I'd have bought a Toyota or Ford. My motor started knocking yesterday, babied from day one and Amsoil from birth. Didn't matter, apparently Chevy designed a shitty oil passage to the rod bearings. Thanks for the video, I start dissassembly next weekend.
the easy way to get to the sencer's on the back side of the motor is to remove the motor mounts and lower the motor it will be so easy'er to unhook the them ,fuel line is a 16 mm rench
That's probably the worst- I think it may be the one with the gas line clamp. I used a ratchet wrench and jacked the transmission up and down carefully. Takes a whole lot of trying, move the engine forward a half inch would make it easier.
oi the best way to get theses enignes out is to take out the heads then it will give yu alot more room to work with and to take it out easier and alot more room for clearneces and stuff so then to put it back is take the heads off then put the block in then replaces the head gaskets and intake gaskets then you know there good and dont have to fo them later on might as well if your putting in a used engine then you know nothing is bad haha thats the easiest way i think think of take the block out it self after taking out the whole top end parts i am looking for some heads are those heads good on that blowen engine if you still have them can i have them or how much you want for them THE END :p
Can you go more into detail on the top bolts please? Also, the left side top bolt above the exhaust manifold. Cannot get a wrench or socket on it. Little clearance. Anything out help.
I have misplaced my bolts for my dust cover over my flywheel on a 1995 S-10 4x4 pickup king cab with a 4.3L vortec motor.Can anyone tell me the size, length , sae or metric, or where I can info for this vehicle?
Hi there. Thanks for the video.. I have some questions though! :0 I need to remove a 4.3 v6 chevy engine and 700r4 tranny from a 88 blazer with the cherry picker/engine hoist. I plan on installing both in my 1976 cj7 jeep. I already have the motor mounts for the swap and will keep my dana 20 t-case (will have to get an adapter). ALSO, do I need to put the t-case and/or the transmission in neutral? Or does this not matter? Since I plan on reinstalling the two together, what differently would I do? I know to drain and remove radiator. I hope to remove the front of the blazer grille. Is this difficult to do? Thanks again for the video. It helps me get a better idea on how its done. :)
how did you get the power steering pump off? im redoing my 97 GMC Jimmy with the same motor and i bought the tool to remove the pump but its hanging me up on it bigtime
I'm pulling a 4.3 out of my blazer right now and i was wondering how the hell to get to those torque conv bolts... I didnt even think to look throught the starter hole... So now i feel dumb lol
remove starter and there is a small shield with 2 i think 10mm bolts after you remove that you have to turn the engine over by hand until you can access the torque converter bolts 1 at a time by going through the starter's opening
This was the most insane stupid designed vehicle to remove the bell housing bolts. What finally worked after three days of trying to get the top bolt out because the floorboard on this 97 blazer identical to this video was too close to the bolts. What worked was to lift the body up. It's really easy to do this just loosen the first 3 rubber body mounts, leave the rear one on and put a bottle jack with a piece of wood under each door and jack them up simultaneously get a friend to help and the body will raise up and pull the floorboard away from the bell housing bolts. The engineer who designed this needs to be forced to do this himself so he can see how incredibly stupid he is!!
The way they made the oil pan so you can't remove it from underneath the engine is a really unforgivably stupid design. Sometimes I wonder what the jimmy engineers were smoking when they came up with that one. But it's just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to stupid design features from general motors. I think they don't want their cars to be easily repairable, so when the time comes a person will opt to buy new instead of repair. That's how I'm feeling about my blazer now. Thing is, I'm seriously looking at Toyota. Eff gm products.
Thanks you so much for the very helpful information. My husband is removing the engine from our 1999 Chevy Blazer and he was grateful for the information. It was so kind of you to put it on the internet. Have a pleasant week. Cynthia
Sir I appreciate you taking the time to create the video. I have a 96 s10 that lost oil pressure and starting ticking/knocking after driving at a speed of 90 mph for about 7 or 8 minutes and am now going to remove the engine. Thanks so much for the info on the converter bolts. I also so someone posted about the oil passages not being adequate for proper oil flow. SO now seeing that I know what is wrong with mine. Thank you.
Thanks man I am in the middle of pulling my 4.3 and ran into the issue with the same small things hangin me up. Your video showed me exactly what was holdin me up.
Removing that front grill assembly is not much work, easier then you think. And makes putting that motor back in so much easier. Makes it easier to line it up and marry it to the transmission.
If you lift the motor up and pull it forward you can get it all the bolts in the back, I did it the same way as you would any old rear wheel drive Chevy , I didn't have to remove anything else off of the engine . After working on blazers since the very first model there has been a lot of changes they made it very difficult on these 2000 models
Bro I have been trying to get the bellhousing bolt just above the pin from under the car for a solid day thank u for telling me it's top work.....
Good gob man I got a 1999 S10 ZR 2 and I watch u and I got my motor out of it and just put a new one in it and got it running now so thank s
I just did one yesterday.. i suggest whiskey lots and lots of whiskey.
I have to do this on my 1994 GMC Jimmy 4x4 here soon. Nice to see it can be done with a few tips and tricks. Thanks for posting.
Thanx bud....I appreciate you taking the time to make this video. :) I owe you a box of beer :)
I'm removing the 4.3 in my 98' S10 Blazer 4x4 and the tip for removing the torque converter bolts will help greatly! Thanks!
I have a 2000 4x4 and I was wondering the same!
U get a subscription just cause of the pain that is removing just one of those bolts nearest the fire wall
And cause the video was good
Those bell housing bolts at the top killed me
thanks for the great info, im in the process of pulling one on a 2000.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm gearing up to remove one from my '96 S10.
Just for the record for a motor bearing swap it is a lot easier to remove the front axle to get the pan off then pulling the motor I've done it both ways
Chris Davison do you know if the front wheels and ball joints need to be undone for the bell housing to be separated from the motor as well? video didn't show the work before pulling it (helping a buddy later today, and wanna be as prepared as possible). thanks!
Thanks, just the information I needed!
Hey more simple approach might be to take off the transfer case pull engine and trans whole, 1 that comes up and forward you will be able to get the ground harness bowl and the fuel line bolts of a lot easier but you will have to remove the distributor cap
my 2001 s10 had a hole in the firewall by the brake pedal to get to one of the top trans bolts lmfao would of been good to know before it took me 2 hours to get that bolt off
Crazy 80s models dont have it i had to lift up motor to take off motorr mounts to get at the two last bolts
@@2east0side96 the holes behind the gas pedal* and no. Never got fumes water or smoke.. you could prob plug it up if you wanted tho!
i have a 1998 S10 pick up same problem one bolt on the drivers side not sure if there is a hole in firewall 4wheel drive dont WANT TO PULLOUT THE TRANS
@@marcelwright6277 it wasant a factory hole.. previous owner drilled it to get to the bolt i assume.
Hey this video was extremely helpful. I'm doing a 350 swap in an s10 4x4 and this will help a lot with getting the transmission which is hangin me up big time
Thanks for the info. My friend picked one up cheap and even though it's running fine it has 250k miles on it and he wanted me to pull it and go through it.
just getting started , thank you . Your video helps alot !
Yours is one of the few videos i've found on Vortec V6 engine removal. I just wish you had shown us from the very beginning. Things like Bellhousing to Tranny bolts,How many ? Where ? Motor mounts, Bolts,how many ? Where ?
Thanks Chevy for a making a 4.3 shit motor that spins bearings ! Had I known of this I'd have bought a Toyota or Ford. My motor started knocking yesterday, babied from day one and Amsoil from birth. Didn't matter, apparently Chevy designed a shitty oil passage to the rod bearings. Thanks for the video, I start dissassembly next weekend.
the easy way to get to the sencer's on the back side of the motor is to remove the motor mounts and lower the motor it will be so easy'er to unhook the them ,fuel line is a 16 mm rench
@MrLonghairlimy2
I know what you mean, I could only turned that clamp bolt 5 degrees at a time till it was tight- took forever.
That's probably the worst- I think it may be the one with the gas line clamp. I used a ratchet wrench and jacked the transmission up and down carefully. Takes a whole lot of trying, move the engine forward a half inch would make it easier.
I have a 97 blazer 4x4 4.3 will a 99 blazer 4x4 4.3 work ? I want a motor that will wire right up ! please let me know thanks
How did you fix the crank bearing same thing just happened to mine
oi
the best way to get theses enignes out is to take out the heads then it will give yu alot more room to work with and to take it out easier and alot more room for clearneces and stuff
so then to put it back is take the heads off then put the block in then replaces the head gaskets and intake gaskets then you know there good and dont have to fo them later on
might as well if your putting in a used engine then you know nothing is bad haha
thats the easiest way i think think of
take the block out it self after taking out the whole top end parts
i am looking for some heads are those heads good on that blowen engine
if you still have them can i have them or how much you want for them
THE END
:p
I used the bolt holes on the engine block to bolt the chain on.
Ya i shore hope so. Because mine span a baring in the motor. I'm going to put another motor in it. But my question is is the old block worth saving.
You're awesome!!!! Thank you man!
Thanks a bunch man. you did good helping me brother
Thanks for the info bud. I'm about to do the same swap in my 98 Jimmy.
not sure about shift indicator, but as long as it shift easily - should be good!
You made a few good points that helped me ,thanks,rob
I always try to leave things connected if all possible.some manuals have you remove things for no reason it seems.
Thanks for making all these videos man.
Can you go more into detail on the top bolts please? Also, the left side top bolt above the exhaust manifold. Cannot get a wrench or socket on it. Little clearance. Anything out help.
I have misplaced my bolts for my dust cover over my flywheel on a 1995 S-10 4x4 pickup king cab with a 4.3L vortec motor.Can anyone tell me the size, length , sae or metric, or where I can info for this vehicle?
what's are you planning to put in? What can a mechanic charge me to remove dispose of the engine, transmission, gas tank and exhaust?
How many ground wires connected to the heads? You didn't mention you had to remove the ground wires.
shane did you have to do a case relearn on this after you was finished? i did this same swap but im getting a p0300 multiple cylinder misfire code.
do the front ball joints need to be split and then the axles pushed back thru the hubs in order to get transmission separated from the motor also?
Isn't the oil pan connected to the bell housing in some way? I'm planning a similar job on my Blazer next year.
Hi there. Thanks for the video.. I have some questions though! :0
I need to remove a 4.3 v6 chevy engine and 700r4 tranny from a 88 blazer with the cherry picker/engine hoist. I plan on installing both in my 1976 cj7 jeep. I already have the motor mounts for the swap and will keep my dana 20 t-case (will have to get an adapter). ALSO, do I need to put the t-case and/or the transmission in neutral? Or does this not matter?
Since I plan on reinstalling the two together, what differently would I do? I know to drain and remove radiator. I hope to remove the front of the blazer grille. Is this difficult to do? Thanks again for the video. It helps me get a better idea on how its done. :)
WHY CAN I NOT FIND A COMPLETE STEP BY STEP VIDEO ON HOW TO REMOVE A 5.7 VORTEC!!!!!!!
jessica martinez Have a pro do it you amateur
If you have all the transmission bolts and for converter bolts out you should have to jiggle the motor and it should come free
Thank you sir. This was helpful.
Anyone smell popcorn¿ I hear it and now can taste it ;-) thank you mr. Popcorn
Very helpful Shane-Thanks alot, well done post!!!!
can I swap the intake manifolds on a 1995 GMC JIMMY, 4.3 vortex, with a 2003 chevy blazer 4.3 vortex?
yes, same on all 95-05
I left both manifolds on and oil cooler set up
Awesome thanks so much for making this exactly what i needed
Would it have been easier to remove inner fender well..just asking
how did you get the power steering pump off? im redoing my 97 GMC Jimmy with the same motor and i bought the tool to remove the pump but its hanging me up on it bigtime
hey would a 99 4.3 work in a 95 blazer..do i have to just change the heads and intake right?
thanks man
Thank you for the helpful video!
Maybe two hours, then another hour and a half to make sure I wasn't pulling apart a wiring harness or damaging something.
about how many man-hours would you say this took you to get it as far as you did with this one video?
how do you get to the two bolts on top of the transmission without taking the whole engine apart
I removed the tires and went at it with a ratcheting hinged wrench. Sometimes only turning 1/8 inch at a time.
will have to give that a try
pull the intake, pull the distributor. you can get em from the top.
OMG, I would go NUTS.... Too many things to put back, LMFAO
How long did it take to swap it out
I'm pulling a 4.3 out of my blazer right now and i was wondering how the hell to get to those torque conv bolts... I didnt even think to look throught the starter hole... So now i feel dumb lol
remove starter and there is a small shield with 2 i think 10mm bolts after you remove that you have to turn the engine over by hand until you can access the torque converter bolts 1 at a time by going through the starter's opening
Thank you!
They must be playing ping pong in the background.
This was the most insane stupid designed vehicle to remove the bell housing bolts. What finally worked after three days of trying to get the top bolt out because the floorboard on this 97 blazer identical to this video was too close to the bolts. What worked was to lift the body up. It's really easy to do this just loosen the first 3 rubber body mounts, leave the rear one on and put a bottle jack with a piece of wood under each door and jack them up simultaneously get a friend to help and the body will raise up and pull the floorboard away from the bell housing bolts. The engineer who designed this needs to be forced to do this himself so he can see how incredibly stupid he is!!
RkyMtnHigh same problem with my s10 truck
2 1/2 months, was it worth it? :D
I never got any codes, but I sold the vehicle not sure about now
shane taylor Could you tell me where I would hook up the engine hoist chain on the engine? :)
+rag Doll there's a bracket next to the AC pump and use a bell housing bolt on the back for the other side.
Eddieallen
Its okay, I figured it out.
How did you get the hood off
tracy spencer lmao if you can't figure that part out might not want to try removing the engine
need to remove wiring harness 4.8 vortex 2000 silverado
So like how about the clamp on the drivers side with the fuel lines. What a fucker that clamp is.
thanks man!
What about the motor mounts..lol
how about showing how to separate the fucking block instead of the after work...
Deidre Oliver He showed all the bolts you need to remove. If you can't take it from there you have no business doing this type of work
@dalila4577 i think so.
I guess I should make a video all these videos everybody went way too far and did unnecessary stuff to get the motor out
Chris Davison make a video or shut the hell up
Can't believe nobody has a better video than this bullshit
The way they made the oil pan so you can't remove it from underneath the engine is a really unforgivably stupid design. Sometimes I wonder what the jimmy engineers were smoking when they came up with that one. But it's just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to stupid design features from general motors. I think they don't want their cars to be easily repairable, so when the time comes a person will opt to buy new instead of repair. That's how I'm feeling about my blazer now. Thing is, I'm seriously looking at Toyota. Eff gm products.
Yeah a bit pain in the butt
Can I swap a motor from the 96 4 door s10 blazer to a 2000 blazer that is 4x4?